The item is ok, but this certainly isn't a top line product.

The bad news:
-It came dented.
-It's missing a washer for the wheels.
-The door doesn't seal
-It cools to about 45deg (I adjusted the thermostat.  I'll have to try again.)(UPDATE: Turns out the thermostat adjusts in the opposite direction from the review explaining how to make the modification.)
-It's loud.  (Louder than the other mini-frige in the room.)
-The CO2 tank uses a safety blow-out disk.  I blew it out (guy filling the tank thought it was a 5lb tank so put 3.5lb in it).  The problem is, getting another safety disk isn't something I could pick up in town.
-In our excitement, all 5 engineers putting the thing together missed the set screw on the pressure regulator.  On the plus side, with enough arm greese and a pliers, you can turn it with the set screw in.  On the minus side, we stripped out about an eight of a turn of the thread.
-The first tank of CO2 (5lb) drained out over night.  I still don't know why.

The good news:
-It works.
-The tubes are all nicely terminated so the only real work to get it up and running is to convert the tap to work with the tubes already connected to the regulator and the part coming out of the top, then connect them.
-It's cheap

Overall, I've got a feeling that once I've gotten all the idiosyncracies worked out, I'll be happy (unless the temp doesn't come down a bit more).  If you want a unit you'll get that'll look good and work right strait out of the box, you might want to go with something else.  But if you want an inexpensive kegorator to get you to your beer, this does the job.

UPDATE:  found another subtle problem. If the beer line sits against the back wall of the kegorator, it can freeze (since there really isn't anything separating the cooling coils from inside of the kegorator).  Moved the line off the back wall and it worked in minutes. (for reference, had adjusted the calibration on the thermostat to let it go lower.)

UPDATE2: This keg-o-rator seems to have poor cooling in the tower causing the first half-glass of beer to be all foam.  It's a common problem I believe [...]  Going to buy a tower cooling kit [...] and see if that fixes the problem.

UPDATE 3: Just added added my second keg to the keg-o-rator.  The keg sits on the door a bit (as it's a 1/2 barrel) and, unfortunately, that's causing the door to sag and preventing it from sealing so that now the keg-o-rator won't cool.  This product is more trouble than it's worth.  Highly recommend people buy a better quality product.


UPDATE:  Six years, still working great.

For starters, stop reading reviews prior to 2011.  The early issues with this kegerator have been addressed to the point Nostalgia really should assign it a new model number.  As reported by others the regulator is now a pretty nice dual gauge unit, with a lockable output valve.  Meaning once you get your CO2 settings dialed in you can lock the knob so it doesn't get changed accidentally while changing out a keg, etc.  Also, the unit is dead quiet.

The instructions have been completely revamped and are very easy to follow.  All the spare parts provided have been labeled in the manual, no mysteries there either.  Before this arrived I downloaded a PDF copy of the old instructions, and it's true the early buyers were basically left in the dark.

I followed the instructions, charged my tank, threw in a 1/4 barrel, and no problems at all.  The beer has a perfect head on it, and my monitoring of temps have been hovering around 34-35f.  That's with the thermostat set to maximum, so I'll be watching that closely.  I don't want my beer to freeze!

A few things to note:

1)  The keg tower rubber washer (#5) was not already installed, and is not really mentioned in the manual.  Be sure to install it otherwise there's not a tight seal between the tower and fridge and cool air will escape.  You'll know if it's not on because the tower installs too easy and doesn't feel tight.  The nice side effect of this design is that the tower is basically cooled, so less stale beer in the line.

2)  A 5 pound CO2 tank will fit with a full 1/2 barrel, and can be bought at a local gas supply or welding shop filled for about 50 bucks.  Refills on the tank are around $9.  The 2.5 pound tank shipped is fine, and I'll be filling it so I have a full tank at all times.  The 2.5 pound tank should be able to dispense 2-4 1/2 barrel kegs, the 5 pound tank 4-8 1/2 barrel kegs.  Tighter fittings, lower CO2 settings, more kegs...

3)  The casters are optional, and there are already self leveling feet installed if (like me) you prefer the unit to be shorter and stationary.  Height to the top of the fridge door is exactly 31 inches without the caster installed.

Anyway, given all the features and the insane price of $380 shipped I can't see how anyone could be unhappy at this point.  All the negative reviews made me really ponder this purchase, but I'm happy to report they're all talking about a different product.  I'll post a follow up at 12 months, or before if I experience any problems.

And thanks to the early buyers who posted reviews!  Nostalgia listened and thanks to you I have a really nice unit.


It does what a dishwasher is supposed to do - wash the dishes.

In case you've never owned a portable dishwasher before, it goes like this - you hook it up to the sink with a tube that pumps water to the dishwasher and then pumps dirty water back into the sink. Mine came with a special part you hook up to the faucet. You plug it in, load it up, add some soap and let it run. There's slightly more steps than a normal under-counter dishwasher, but it's smaller and thus there's more room.

However, it's worth noting that this thing is bigger than a microwave. If you're going to put it on a cart, a microwave cart probably won't be big enough.

I've only used the 'rapid' cycle, as other people seem to recommend, and it's worked great. There's no leaking and no mess - except if you're careless about disconnecting the sink hookup, but that's to be expected. It's like when you turn off a garden hose and lift it from the middle, water still in the hose is bound to come out the only way gravity will let it.

It doesn't seem to have any kind of sound muffling so it's a bit loud. Not too loud to run in the middle of the night with neighbors sleeping one room over but it's no gentle hum either. It's heavy too, I nearly hurt myself getting out of the (huge) box it came in. Neither of these are enough to overshadow the performance and general convenience though.

I've read a lot of bad reviews about this thing. I've come to the conclusion that the majority of them come from people who have never used a portable dishwasher before. Having owned a larger model myself, I knew the basics of what to expect. As with any plumbing that comes partially 'pre-assembled' you need to tighten and adjust everything to avoid leaks - machines put these things together most of the time, not people. You check the seals, the general quality of the product and watch over it the first time you run it. Just in case. If something goes wrong the odds are that it was used improperly.

All in all, I'm satisfied. It works well and I don't have to do the dishes by hand anymore.

[UPDATE] - December 30, 2010
I still stand by everything in my review. This thing is a great convenience. I haven't had any leaks, malfunctions or trouble.

[UPDATE] - August 20, 2011
A year later and still working like a dream. If it starts to smell inside, just run a cycle with a little bleach and it'll take care of that. If some build up starts to happen around the seal, just wipe it down with a sponge. Both of these things can happen with any dishwasher, so it's not a big deal.

[UPDATE] - October 6, 2011
Minor (stupid) user-end issue today. A chopstick was poking into the seal when I closed the door. It still locked closed and I didn't notice the chopstick sticking into the seal until one of the rinse cycles started. A lot of water leaked out. I caught it almost right away and it took about 20 minutes to clean up. There was no damage to property or the dishwasher though. Still totally recommend it.


If I was rating this ice machine purely on meeting advertised performance it would get a five, but I feel that I have to take one off for design. As advertised, it makes ice quickly and reliably. We use it in our bar/theater room, most generally for a few hours in the evening about three times a week.

What's not evident from any of the sales literature is that the machine works by pumping water up from a lower reservoir to the freezing tray in the top. The tray dumps the ice into a basket above the reservoir. As the cubes melt, the water drops back down into the reservoir to be reused. As you use ice, the water level in the reservoir drops. There's no cooler for the ice compartment, just the one that runs the freeze tube during an ice making cycle. If you leave the machine on all the time, it cycles every few hours as the ice cubes sitting in the basket melt down enough to trigger the low ice sensor. That means that you either leave the machine on all the time or you have to plan a party about half an hour ahead of time in order to have any ice on hand. It takes about an hour and a half of continuous running in order to fill the ice bin. The machine, while not overly loud, makes too much noise to be left on during movies. A full hopper is good for about half a dozen full size mixed drinks; each cycle is good enough for about one and a half to two drinks depending on how much ice you like. As some have noted, there's a strong plastic smell about the unit similar to how the inside of a new refrigerator smells. I was put off at first until I discovered that the ice cubes didn't have any plastic flavor to them. It stands to reason that that if you can smell the plasticizers than they are in the water as well but I couldn't detect it. No idea whether the plastic compound in question is the suspect Bisphenol A that has everyone tossing their plastic water bottles. In any case, the smell is fading over time which means that there's less of whatever it is causing the smell in the water.

What it needs, and doesn't have, is an internal clock to turn it on at a certain time every day. That way it could start making ice in the afternoon and be ready by evening. Instead it has a timer that can be set to count down a certain number of hours and minutes before it starts. That means that you have to know ahead of time if there's going to be a gathering and you have to remember to go to the machine and set it to start counting down. That's often pointless because it's already evening and you need it to start making ice right away.

An external timer's no good either. The control panel is computerized rather than hard switched so it resets to off when external power is removed.

A quirk to be aware of is that you can't put ultra pure water in the machine. It relies on a certain amount of minerals in the water to provide conductivity for the proper functioning of the water level sensor. If you put in ultra pure water in the attempt to get perfect ice that won't impart flavors to your drink, the machine will just sit there thinking it's low on water.

In short, good ice at a good price. It's just a shame that all the computing power of the front panel is wasted by not having a clock programmed in.


I have REALLY enjoyed making ice with this machine!
The water hopper holds about 3/4 gallon of water (to the fill line), the ice hopper holds (as a guess) 2-4 cups of finished ice. Once the ice hopper is at its fill point, it will stop making ice until either you empty the hopper, or it melts on its own. It is NOT a refrigerator or freezer, so the ice will eventually melt back down and drip back into the water hopper if you don't remove it. If the machine runs low on water, it will also stop until more water is added. There are red lights that indicate which is needing attention, the ice to be removed, or the water to be filled.

This thing does really crank out the ice. Once my ice hopper is full, I dump my ice into a gallon "zip-lock" bag, and toss it in our chest freezer (the ice is drippy at this point). I usually dump the ice 2 times into the bag, and it settles nicely into the freezer. When we take a bag out to bring into the house freezer, we thump it on the workbench, the ice is nice and broken apart into its cylindrical shapes, and into the ice cube box inside they go.

Someone asked me what it has done to our electricity bill. I never thought about it, as it isn't a huge concern I want ice and I can almost guarantee it's less than what you would spend on bags of ice from the store. We use it once a week to stock up for the following week. This may be something to think about if you will be using it frequently.
Also, the "noise" someone complained about I was a little nervous about. It's not any more noisy than a desktop computer turned on, or a refrigerator running (it's a running fan sound). When the ice dumps, well, it sounds like ice hitting plastic, but I would hope that's to be expected. I used it once at night and it didn't keep me awake. The kitchen is 20 feet away from our room. I won't use it again at night, only because the ice hopper fills up so quickly, that me getting up every 3-4 hours is out of the question.

The reasons I did not give it a 5 star rating are:
1.) MINOR issue (if this was the only issue I would have given 5 stars), is in a beverage the ice does not last nearly as long as store bought ice, or ice made with an ice maker in a freezer.
2.) A little more of an issue, there is a slight "off" taste. I tried with our tap water and also store bought water, There was no difference. I add about half to one teaspoon of lemon juice to a gallon of water, and the taste is masked. I will try with no lemon juice in about a month, and see if there is any change.

I did buy a 2 year appliance plan ($16.00) based on another review of the fan going out, and I knew this would be a primary ice maker for us. I thought for the price, if something happened, it would be well work the 16 dollar protection.


I have had this unit for 2 years now. It replaced the ubiquitous Electrolux/Frigidaire/Kenmore basic washer which didn't hold up well and had to be replaced at 9 years.

I like the electronic controls. The end-of-cycle bell could be louder (whereas my old E/F/K was so loud I would go to another room and close the door to avoid being near it when it went off). It washes well. Plenty of settings to chose from. I L-O-V-E the very high speed spin; the clothes come out almost dry. It takes about 1 hour for a permanent-press (almost all I ever use) wash cycle, but then it only takes 15 minutes in the dryer (which costs a --LOT-- more per minute to run so a huge net energy savings) to finish the load, so its all good.

I like that it has a sump drain/cleanout panel in the front in order to remove wayward pocket stuff. I dissolved 2 pennies and a nickle for 2 years in the pump of my E/F/K unit because you had to take it apart to get stuff out of the pump once it got in there.

I like the direct drive motor, which (should) last a long time and need little maintenance compared to a traditional "motor off to one side and power transferred by a belt" construction. It is pretty quiet even in high speed mode.

If I have one complaint, it would be that this unit can never make up its mind when enough water is let in. Instead of just opening the water intake valve and letting it run until enough water triggers a "shutoff switch" [like every other washer I have ever seen], this unit makes a meal out of it. Open Close. Open Close. Open Close. Open Close. Oooooooooopen Close. Open Close. Open Close. Open Close. Enough already! Heaven help you if you try to take a shower at the same time! It probably takes 5-7 minutes to get the water in, and considering frontloaders don't use anywhere near as much water as toploaders that is inexplicable to me. [stipulated that if you have a full load it is reasonable to have to add water 1 or 2 times early in the wash as the clothes soak it up - but this is probably 30 cycles or more!] Plus I am afraid it will wear out too quickly (or worse yet burst the inlet lines and soak my basement) with that perpetual banging open and closed on the water valve.

People [primarily those who've never actually used one] complain about it being "hard to empty" a frontloader but I find it easier to roll wet clothes out of the front of a frontloader than to have to reach way down inside a toploader and have to lift wet clothes out from around that big Maypole thingy in the middle. Additionally, I have a small stool that I sit on when loading/unloading the unit. Plus its fun to watch a frontloader run; try and get entertainment out of a toploader!


This review is current as of 9/10/2016.  I have asked Amazon review team to look into the product description as some of us are receiving 10 lint traps and some are receiving 20 lint traps.  Actually, they come 2 in a package so a 10-pack technically is 20 lint traps.  I ordered from a prominent Amazon seller on this site and received only 10 lint traps and the brand was Home-Aide.  I took a magnet to the filters and the magnet stuck to them, indicating they were not aluminum, or at least had a quanity of other metal.  I returned them without opening the plastic wrapper.  Return was easy, and I chose a credit to my account.  For this I give Amazon customer support 5 stars.  I do not wish to name the vender, as this may have been an oversight, or a fix will be shortly under way.  However, this is an ongoing problem. Do you want 20 filters or 10?  Do you want Helping Hand or some other brand? I leave it up to you to decide.  The same day of the return, I took a chance and reordered from a different Amazon vendor  Epeak.  Epeak did not disappoint.  Epeak rushed me 20 genuine Helping Hand lint filters that came 2 filters per pack, a total of 10 packs.  These filters were from Helping Hand and said Faucet Queens on the back of the package. Yes, they are distributed and marketed by FaucetQueens and look just like the package that is displayed on this site. I took a strong magnet to them and they did not stick to the magnet.  So no rust here. So these are the real deal.  I'm glad I stuck to my gut feeling and listened to the feedback of the other reviewers that Helping Hands was an excellent deal.  So I give Amazon 5 stars,  Epeak 5 stars, Helping Hand 5 stars, and the old vendor a tip: 10 packs means just that - 10 packs of  2 each.  Now what do I think of Helping Hand filters?  A great deal.  I'm glad I got them.  These are for those who have a side tub that the drain hose goes into.  These are a decent length, the hole size is good and the quality is good.  Each 2 pack had 1 plastic tie that goes in each package.  I'm glad I bought these, and recommend that you do the same, and thanks for the heads up on this issue.  Also remember this is part of your ongoing maintenance as they eventually fill up with lint and need to be changed out.  Here's another tip: Get a water alarm- the Glentronics BWD-HWA Basement Watchdog and let the sensor end dangle into your washer tub about 2 inches.  That way if your tub ever backs up you'll get a good loud warning.  Hope this helps :)


This hood really moves some air.  I didn't find installation of the device itself to be particularly troublesome, though there were some spots that weren't overly compatible with my cabinets (that's no fault of the manufacturer, just something I should have measured) and the ductwork was troublesome to install (again, that's on me and my house).  Once installed, the thing is nicely quiet at low speeds while still moving a decent amount of air, and really clears things out at high speeds while still being quieter than even the low speed of the old microwave "vent fan" that just pushed air around the kitchen.

The hood itself is great for the most part, but there are a few things about it I didn't like so much that I docked it a star:

- The buttons don't always respond to a quick press even when it "clicks", which is infuriating when you're frantically turning the fan up in the kitchen after you've forgotten to turn it on and set off the smoke alarm.
- The relays are kind of noisy (this is, obviously, a bit of a nitpick).
- The recessed bulbs (MR16 GU10 halogen or LED) are a little hard to remove, especially once they're greasy.

It's otherwise a really great unit that we love, and it does its job admirably.  A few things to be aware of before buying it:

- Like any high-capacity vent hood, you probably need a make-up air unit to compensate for the air being sucked out of your house so it doesn't get sucked in through your furnace vent instead.  In my case, our old house is leaky enough that it wouldn't have made a difference, but once we get the leaks plugged (since that has direct implications on our utility bills), we'll need to install one.  It can be a bit of a task.
- If you're tempted to replace the halogen bulbs with LEDs to reduce the energy use or increase their lifespan, make sure you pick ones that dim nicely.  The ones that we tried (from Triangle) didn't have much of a difference between dim and bright, and had noticeable 60 Hz "ghosting" when on the dimmer settings; it was bad enough that we're back to the halogens for now.  We'll try some others.
- When you install it, if the fan seems to be scraping against the metal, make sure it's all the way on its post; ours shifted in shipping and I thought there was something defective or damaged about the unit, but it turned out that I just needed to shove it back on so it was on center.  It should spin freely and quietly when it's correct.
- This unit generally requires a hard-wired branch circuit, so make sure you can provide that.  You could theoretically wire-nut a power cord to it, but that's for chumps.

All in all, I really love this unit with the exception of some minor annoyances that I'm willing to get past.  If you have a high output stove, you should absolutely consider this one.


I purchased the EdgeStar CRF320SS for a small apartment after looking at all the other brands and models. I loved it! The freezer compartment really freezes, it has light inside the cooling compartment, and it also looks nice. Then, after one year and 7 months, it simply quit cooling and freezing. The electric current still goes to the condenser, but nothing is working.  It is like this with all compact refrigerators.  They just won't last long.  Now that I read reviews on other brands like Frigidaire, I notice consumer reviewers have said the same thing.  So much for "durable goods." (I talked to the floor sales guys at Homie Despot and Lowe's and they insisted it is otherwise.  Perhaps they ought to be more conscientious and look into this.)

Most manufacturers of compact 4.5 cu. ft. and smaller refrigerators offer a one year warranty, as EdgeStar does. However, EdgeStar only offers a 90 day warranty and then only one year on "certain parts," which appears to be the weak link with this thing. If you get this, you had better also buy the extended warranty, but be clear an extended warranty starts after the 90 days, not the one year.  So the warranty will be in force for only 15 months.  Other manufacturers of compact refrigerators also say they offer a *5 year* warranty on condenser parts (such as Vissani, which I'd guess is not really any better than this EdgeStar). If the condenser breaks down, then EdgeStar will say nothing but to take it to an appliance repair service who are willing to fix it.  But then, of course, one would will pay more for that repair than the initial cost.  Perhaps those manufacturers who offer a 5 year warranty on condenser parts have good reason to be confident in their refrigerators not breaking down, otherwise they wouldn't offer the warranty.

It is clear to me at least these compact refrigerators are sort of like cheap toaster ovens, or car stereos and other electronics, that are mass produced in factories with cheap labor. It's cheaper to throw them away and buy a new one than to have it fixed -- so no one fixes them!  Interestingly enough, the customer service representative at Compact Appliance from whom I bought the unit did say in a moment of honesty in the conversation that compact refrigerators cost more to fix than they're worth.  If he had said that to a customer when he was in his sales mode he would never sell any of these things!  So, if you want a smaller compact refrigerator, this one is as good as most, but don't expect it to work for much more than a year of constant use. If you just want something you will use occasionally for a college dorm room, an RV, or a houseboat, etc., this one is fine. Meanwhile, the large ancient tank of a refrigerator downstairs is still going strong.


This is the second time I have ordered this dishwasher alert via Amazon.  It serves its purpose well and is simple and streamlined.  I had to order a second one because somehow the first one broke.  It was a while ago, so I don't remember exactly how it broke - we might have dropped something on it and the bottom slide piece broke off (see picture), or it may have broken on its own from the stress of using the slider, I cannot recall so I will not place the blame on anyone.  It was kindof disappointing how easily it broke, though, so I long resisted getting a new one since $6-and-change feels like a lot to pay (twice) for a little flimsy piece of plastic.  Alas, the desire to know the state of one's dishes without having to open the door has prevailed, so I forked over the dollars.

Both of the dishwasher alerts were black, despite the one in the picture being white.  I would have liked a white one, since I have a white dishwasher, but oh well.  I put it on the top of the door and it is visible, but not gaudy or anything.  If you have a dishwasher that has buttons on the top or the door is recessed, then you would have to put this somewhere else.  I wish it didn't say "Dishwasher Alert" on the slider because it distracts a bit from the words "Clean" and "Dirty" and because a plain black slider would look much more slick.  I will probably take a sharpie to it and color over it.  As previously mentioned, the slides can easily be busted, so be careful.

The sticky tape is one time use only and it only includes one strip, but if you need to relocate it, all you have to do is get new double-sided tape.  The tape that it comes with is strong and secure so I never had to deal with it detaching or anything, but it was easy enough to remove when it came time to replace it.  The tape left some sticky residue behind but it came off with water and strong wiping (it should come right off with some Goo Gone).  Since this was on the top of the dishwasher and is under the counter where we do all our food prep, there was some gunky stuff that had collected underneath the alert and in the gaps, but it all wiped off also.  The major thing of note is that the tape left a yellow rectangle on the top of the (white) dishwasher that was still visible after everything had been cleaned (see picture).  This discoloration might be bad if you are renting or for whatever reason decide to remove the alert.  Thankfully, I was just replacing it with another alert.  I don't know how this discoloration might affect a black or stainless steel dishwasher, so take heed!

Overall, it is just plain useful.  Not having one for a while was a total #firstworldproblem, but now I am back in the land of luxury.


We received and installed this unit 09/11/2008, after several weeks of careful research of multiple brands, models and features on the internet.

This unit was a replacement for a Thermador stainless "steam machine" dishwasher, purchased new and used, by both us and renters, since 1980, though with 2 motor replacements. Both Themador motor replacements were performed personally (much lower cost), due to failure of the upper motor shaft seals letting soapy water get out of the wash chamber into the motor.

We have been impressed with how extremely quite the Bosch unit is, much quieter than the high-end Thermador 1980's vintage machine; the Bosch unit is actually somewhat difficult to hear running most of the time, in a quite house, and my hearing remains quite good by audiometry.

It does an excellent wash job; with rinse agent of course.

Because the unit does not use extra heat (and energy) to dry the dishes, it does not warp plastic cups, utensils, etc. like most dishwashers do. On the other hand, because plastic items do not retain much heat, they also do not dry in locations which retain water; a minimal nuisance; just be sure plastic items are in position to gravity drain - of course this applies to all items.

Additionally, because the unit does not use extra heat to dry the dishes, it does not pour out lots of humid air into either the cabinet space or the kitchen like most dishwashers do.

The easy pull out and separable utensil baskets can be placed anywhere on the bottom shelf. This, combined with multiple other both flexible and durable lower and upper rack features, has made this the easiest dishwasher to pack with items which we have seen.

Given the extremely quiet operation, the door status display with states current operation and time until complete has been quite helpful.

Given the very low energy and water usage, plus low noise level, we don't mind running it less than fully packed on occasion if waiting for a full load is inconvenient.

Though we expected to utilize the delay start feature, as we did with the 1980 Thermador unit we replaced with this one, we have ended up not using delay start feature, largely because the unit is so quite.

Addendum: Over two years later:

The unit continues to work well, no service problems.

We had a lot of Cascade powder, used until we finally ran out about a month ago. We noted that Bosch specifically recommends tablets, not powdered detergents, and one obvious problem we noticed with the powders, perhaps more-so over time, was streaks of powder in some place and on some dishes, obviously representing problems with the powder not dissolving before being adequately rinsed away.

Since finally running out of powder and switching to the tablets, the powder streaks are no longer present.

The older powders clearly etched clear glasses, producing a hazy which would could not remove. Only clear glass items make this evident.

The newer tablets claim to not have the etching problem, at least not to the same degrees. I cannot comment until or unless we get some new clear glasses for comparison.


My husband and I live in an apartment with no washer or dryer. For a year we've gone to a laundry mat with no A/C every week and spend $25-$30. I finally had enough when I saw a homeless man eating out of the trash inside the laundry mat just a few feet from me! I went online that day to look for a small washer and dryer that would work with a 120 v outlet. I kept seeing Haier brand and read all the reviews and decided to purchase them from home depot which was the best price with free shipping and the most well know website. To sweeten the deal Home Depot had a discount offer at this time that got us $25.00 off our purchase which made the price cheaper than the other websites. Yay! We were happy so far.... Even better we got the washer and dryer in less than a week and both at the same time. The dryer hook up required us to purchase a 30" x 24" piece of plywood ($30.00) and the exhaust kit ($12.00). My husband used a piece of the plywood to mount in the window to connect the exhaust. Installation took about 30-45 minutes to mount the dryer on the wall and connect the exhaust. Hooking up the washer was super easy just connecting some hoses to the bathroom sink. When we put the first small load in the dryer and set the timer all seemed to be working. After about an hour I had almost two more loads washed but when I checked the dryer (which had turned off) the clothes were hot and still very wet. My husband checked the lint tray (it was clean) but when he checked the exhaust vent there was no air coming out at all.... I called customer service right away and explained what happened. I was told it will take 48 hours for a repair company to call me and set up an appointment. I begged them to send someone sooner since I had 3 loads of washed clothes and no way to dry them. The customer service representative apologized and said that's the best they could do. I was very upset that the brand new dryer I bought wasn't working and I had to wait at least two days to get a call back. I had to hang my clothes all over my house for 24 hours to dry them. The next day I called the repair company and explained what happen and was told that I was scheduled for Wednesday and it was Monday. I begged once again and she sent the repair guy out that same day, only a few hours after we spoke. The repair guy had it working in no time at all. He said the belt connected to the exhaust fan was overly greased and the fan itself was stuck and he had to turn it loose. Afterwards the dryer was working great blowing out the exhaust and drying my clothes normally. Other than that hiccup with the dryer in the beginning the dryer fits and dries medium sized loads in about an hour, of course jeans and towels take a bit longer but I am very happy with my purchase. Haier dryer:$239.00, Price per YEAR to use:$45.00, Not wondering who dried their clothes in the dryer before me and watching a homeless man eat from the trash while sitting in a laundry mat for over 2 hours: PRICELESS!!!


Do not buy the GE Cafe Stove/Range!!!  Nothing but problems..... I wish there was an option for zero or no stars!

I bought the GE Cafe all gas range in May.  First time I used the oven, it shut off automatically.  No error code displayed - just the digital clock was illuminated.  This same problem occurred over and over again - at 350, 375, 400, and 425 degrees.  Sometimes it would shut off in the pre-heat cycle, but mostly while I was baking or cooking dinner.  Incredibly frustrating and a few baking recipes were ruined.  Repair Technican came out - said needed new control panel.  But the panel was back ordered.  GE replaced the stove under warranty at the end of June.

We were away for all of July and August.  Started using the new range beginning of September.  This 2nd GE Cafe stove is even worse than the first one - this range has 5 problems.
1)  This oven also shuts off automatically while trying to bake something in the oven.  Cancel button has not been touched - often goes off when I am out of the room - so I know it wasn't accidentally stopped.
2)  All six knobs across the front have melted - they all need to be replaced.  But I wonder if the replacements will melt as well in the future???  I have never broiled - and GE thought I had this problem because I had broiled something.  Realistically - I should be able to broil without the knobs melting!
3)  One of the burner knobs turns on whenever you touch it - you don't have to push it in to ignite the pilot - it turns on with a mere touch - very dangerous as it can be turned on without you realizing it.
4)  The oven door does not line up properly - there is a larger gap on one side compared to the other
5)  Gas leaks out of one of the top burners - even when the indicator knob is in the 'Off' position!  So we now have the stove disconnected because we don't want gas leaking into the kitchen and house.

GE wants to repair all the problems.  But the Control Panel is still on back order and won't be here until the middle of November - it was ordered on Sept. 17th.  So I don't have a working oven until the middle of November and that is only if it arrives on time - they won't guarantee arrival of the back ordered part.

The valve to stop the gas leak is supposed to arrive at the end of next week - so another week without a stove or cooktop.  Can't run the gas because it leaks until new valve is installed.

I wish I had never bought this stove.  And I am not the only person experiencing these problems - many others have documented the same issues.  Why doesn't GE fix this before they keep selling this defective model to unsuspecting customers???


god, I hate this thing!  Although this is supposed to be a washer review, let me just say I hate the dryer (or, as I call it, "the wrinkle machine") as much if not more!

This is not an indictment of front loading machines.  I purchased early models of Maytag front loaders, and for years, and was thrilled with them.  If I could afford it, these Whirlpool Duet bad boys would be out on the curb in a heart beat.  They are beyond worthless and destructive to my very expensive clothing and linens.

I realize this is anecdotal evidence...just my experience.  First, thing I noticed was that family laundry that used to take me about half a day, now took all day.  WEIRD.  Maybe these were more efficient  and ecologically friendly.  BUTTTTT, My colors were fading out.  My towels didn't feel good.  For the first time in my life, my heels were dried out and cracking. Ok, so it took me a while to figure out that, at least, all the soap wasn't rinsing out.

I wound up doing an experiment today....didn't start out that way.  Had a huge load of towels to do.  (and, NO I didn't overload the drum)  Used All Free HE.  ( AND, before you jump on ALL as an issue...have had same issues with Tide, All N Hammer, etc.) There are 4 lines on the little detergent cup.  Three lines really close together and then a 4th about a quarter of an inch up.  If you believe the ALL people, I should use line 4 for a maximum load.  I'm a cynical individual, so didn't use that line;  didn't even use line 3; went between line 2 and 3.  Gotta have "some" soap...yes?

Happened to walk into laundry room during rinse/spin.  Suds were rinsing out.  Let cycle finish.  Flipped over to Rinse/Spin cycle.  30 minutes, wow, to rinse and spin.  Fewer suds, but water still not running clear.  Did it again.  Fewer, but still some suds.  OK...so that's one wash, then two additional rinse cycles.  After I finish writing this, am going to go do another.

I don't even own the exact same model as this review, but I googled "I hate Whirlpool Duets"  Found this discussion and Found this:[...]

If you go down to the last post, it's just hysterical.  Guy who has a Used Appliance business.  Needs to fix things and then resell them, started getting a flood of Duets.  Couldn't find anything wrong with them.  People just dumping them.  I think says it all!


The set was purchased as a gift for me by my husband in an effort to make laundry easier (larger capacity = less loads) and be more effecient - it uses 1/3 the amount of water my un-he top loader did.  He purchased the wfw9200sq elec. dryer as well.

While it was being delivered from Lowe's the installation man told me "be ginger with the doors, they break a lot, but a lot less than they used to."  Okay.

The machine worked great for 5 days, then at 6am with much laundry to be done, I pressed power, put in a load, added the soap to the cheap plasticky soap dispenser (which I figured would be the first thing to go on the machine) and BEEEP BEEEEP BEEEP!!!!!  F 26 flashes on the machine three times.  So, I tried again.  BEEEEP  BEEEEP BEEEP  F 26.  Then I unplugged it.  Then I tried it again.  Then I called Whirlpool who said to unplug it.  Which I did.  BEEP BEEP BEEP F26.

 "What does that mean?" I ask..

"Don't know" she said.  "Never heard of F26 coming up on a display."

 The she said they would dispatch someone in ONE WEEK.  I explained that would not do, this machine was only a few days old.  They gave me a priority service call (which I did not pay for) and the guy came the next morning.

He showed me a combination of buttons to push to get into some diagnostic mode to remedy the issue but assured me this was a fluke and would not happen again.

"What does F26 mean?"  I asked.

" It's a door thing", he said, "but it's no big deal.  Won't happen again."

" Why doesn't the phone-in customer service guy tell you the button combination and save the service call?"

I ask.

"Don't know" he said.

He leaves and literally 20 mintues later... BEEEP BEEEP BEEP F26 error.  I tried the diagnostic code trick.  Still with the "F26" error.

Then I tried to call the service man on his cell phone 3 times and he didn't answer.  Then I called Whirlpool.  They said they could send someone..... in ONE WEEK.

I went back to Lowes that day and asked that it be returned.  I got a whirlpool cabrio top loader (thinking I would avoid the front loader door problem altogether) which was close to $1000 cheaper -- it is extremely loud, but no operational problems with it so far.

Bottom line, maybe I got a lemon, but 5 days of regular use and the thing blew up.  It was quiet and did clean the clothes nicely and spun them almost dry so that the dryer need not run excessively.  But I still wouldn't recommend it.  $2500 for the pair is a lot of money.


KITCHENAID RANGE COOLING FAN
1.  This KitchenAid cooling fan starts blowing as soon as the oven is turned on, and runs until the oven is turned off, or the convection mode cool down completes.
2.  This range cooling fan exhaust area is 8" above the floor and 27" long and reaches at least 5.5 feet out from the front of the range.
3.  Anyone in the kitchen while this KitchenAid oven is in use, is subject to a "breeze" on lower legs and feet.
4.  The KitchenAid fan exhaust breeze may not be as aggravating in cooler weather, but possibly will be a major issue in warmer weather.
5.  Based on friends with competitor ranges, this KitchenAid cooling fan is louder, more annoying, and distracting than those models. We had to increase the volume of the TV in the kitchen to compensate for the fan noise.

After using the oven just once, we told the dealer that we wanted to exchange it for a different manufacturers' range.  We would not recommend that this KitchenAid model be considered.

KITCHENAID RANGE CONTROL PANEL
1.  This KitchenAid control panel design is awkward and inconvenient. The front panel is tilted at a shallow angle, close to vertical. This makes the panel more difficult to observe and operate when cooking at the range top or using the oven. In order to adequately observe and correctly use the control panel, you have to stand back from the range or bend down/crouch down each time.
2.  This KitchenAid control panel is located directly above the oven door. With the oven in use, opening the oven door, allows moist, hot air to billow out and up onto the control panel. Moisture condenses on the panel...and drips onto the floor.
3.  Yes, you could wipe off the control panel to control condensation every time that you open the oven door, but this increases the opportunity to touch a control point and accidentally modify a setting.
4.  A reasonable person could question what effect continual exposure to steam and moisture will have on the useful life of the panel and its electrical components.

POTENTIAL  SAFETY  ISSUE - Easy to accidentally turn "on" the controls.
The shallow angle of the KitchenAid control panel (there's that panel issue, again) positions the top cooking element control knobs very close to where you will be leaning when you reach up to an overhead cabinet. It is very easy (critically easy?) to contact the cooking element controls - push one in - and turn the knob into the "high" position with a slight twist of the upper body...and have a burner heating up quickly. We were in the preparation stage (nothing in the oven or on the top cooking elements) when my wife reached into an overhead cabinet for something - turned slightly to the side to place it on the countertop - and accidentally turned on a cooking element. It is frightening to imagine what could have happened to a cooking magazine, cook book, food carton or towel placed on that cooking element had we left the kitchen area for even a short period of time.


my first email...

Hello,I am so mad right now!!!Here I go and spend over 2000.00
> on a new Frigidaire Refrigerator and Gas Stove\Oven and half a year later
> the stove is rusted.  The metal burner grates were not painted on the
> bottom.  So any liquid that got under neath them caused them to rust.  So
> now, not only are the bottoms of all the burners rusted.  The top surface
> of the stove's painted has been damaged where the rusty burner grates
> were sitting and it is now rusted.  Basically, I either have have to
> repaint the bottom of the burner gratess and the top of my cook top.
> (This will require much time prepping the surface and I will have to
> purchase the heat resistant paint.)  Or,  Frigidaire the company is
> going to step up and help me out.  So which is it going to be?
> Regardless of whether to help me or not, please tell your engineering
> dept. to start coating the entire burner grates, not just the bottom. I
> would love to talk on the phone with someone.

and they reply saying they are sorry and are going to send me new grates.  THey suggest I great them with vegetable oil so they don't rust.  see below...

If you notice the bottom of your grates are rusting the bottom surface on cast iron grates is deliberately unfinished to allow high carbon gases, present in iron, to escape during the manufacturing process.  If the gases were trapped it would cause surface blemishes in the enamel finish and increase chipping.  To eliminate or minimize rust from forming do not allow grates to stand in water for long periods of time.  After washing dry the grates thoroughly to prevent rust oxidation from forming.  You may also coat the bottom surfaces of the grates with a vegetable oil, or a non stick cooking spray (remember to wipe off excessive oil before placing on range).  There may be a slight amount of smoke from any excess vegetable oil residue left on the grate when the burner is first used again.  We would like to apologize for any inconvenience you are experiencing

Well they send me two grates in the mail.  I have to reply and ask for two more.  They send me one.  I reply a 3 time asking for the fourth.  Pathetic.

I am so disappointed in this stove and the customer service in regards to making it right.  How dare you suggest that I have to treat the grates with oil to keep the from rusting!  If you would have done some better testing and engineering then I would not have to do anything.  Sure, you can send me replacement grates.  But that isn't going to take care of my stove top which is likely to keep rusting regardless of my new grates.


The GE Profile Induction stovetop is everything I was looking for. Easily cleans with a paper towel and Windex, 100% controlled temperature, evenly cooks, heats up FAST!, in less then a minute completely boils water, looks beautiful with any decor and our pots and pans stay clean on the bottom because no flame is constantly hitting it. Under supervision, I use one piece of paper towel under the pot when cooking to catch any spill overs and to just keep the ceramic top clean. Even on the highest setting surprisingly the paper towel never burns. Amazingly The stovetop doesn't get hot only the pan does and directly under the pan. It's truly like MAGIC!. I don't have to worry about flames catching anything or anybody on fire. It's perfect for the kids to cook. I will never use gas again! What a MESS gas stoves make and how ugly they are with big burners. What a pain to clean a gas stovetop, I will never go back to gas.

Here's what to be careful of...

Never cook without something in the pot because it can overheat the pot and blow out the fuse on the cooktop, according to the directions this can also permentenly break the cooktop. We are being careful of that. I can see how that can happen if something boils dry or burns and overheats. Just like cooking a pan on a flame with nothing in it would really mess up the pan and become over heated.

We are careful about not scratching the cooktop which really won't happen if you are gentle on how you put your pan on the ceramic. Just make sure there is noting under the pan that may scratch and it will be fine. We don't slide the pan on it, we just put it down gently and we also use a paper towel which we probably don't have to use but I feel better using it. No problems.

The only thing I noticed that bugs me once in awhile when cleaning is the control lock does not stay locked, but that's no big deal. it's just a pain to clean over the lock and the on/off buttons.

One thing to beware of is NEVER use tin foil directly under a pan when cooking, it will melt the tin foil and ruin the stovetop. Now a days for some reason foil melts when too hot. Yah I know, who would think but it's happing with all the new appliances and complaints are all over the internet. If heat is applied directly to tin foil it melts. It truly will ruin any appliance that this happens to. You can't get melted foil off without ruining the appliance.

EDIT 6/26/2013
Still LOVE my Cooktop! No problems at all, no scratches, it still looks as good as new, and I figured out the problem with the lock button for cleaning the top without the touch pad turning on was because of me (user error).... I didn't know how to do it and thought there was something wrong with it, theres nothing wrong with it, the problem was that I was not holding down the lock button long enough to lock it. You need to hold it down for a good minute before it locks and to unlock it the same thing.


This cook top is every thing I had hoped it would be. I was replacing another 30" cook top, so all I did was open the breaker, check to see if the circuit was dead, broke the old connection, popped-out the old cook top, dropped-in the GE, reconnected the wiring, closed the breaker, and that was it.  One note, if you downloaded the instructions beforehand: a couple of times the instructions make bold note that if you have aluminum wiring, then you need Al to Cu connectors.  Yep, but the COOK TOP has Al wiring, so if you have Cu wiring you need special wire nuts.  A simple, online check with Lowes or Home Depot, or a call to a local appliance store, to check availability and get three wire nuts for an Al to Cu connection.  For those with a science acumen, it's the galvanic action between the two, dissimilar metals that will cause corrosion--some will, incorrectly, say it's electrolysis, but that requires an electrolytic solution.
A few reviews as to cookware seem moot.  If one doesn't know what magnetic induction is, perhaps one should read-up on it before considering this item.  I recently changed cookware to Le Creuset Tri-Ply because I needed new cookware and had induction cooking in mind, also.  This is excellent cookware.  Lesser cookware will work on this cook top as long as it's of a ferrous material--stainless steel or cast iron.  However, the performance of this cook top using this cookware is outstanding--much better than my ancient experience with gas.  Amazing!
As for the 40 amp power requirement, when I popped the old cook top out, I noticed that the power rating was virtually the same as the GE one.  This cook top ran for years on a 30 amp circuit.  It should have been a 40 amp circuit, but the good ole boy electricians--I'm being generous--in rural East Texas used a 30 amp circuit and the old cook top never tripped the breaker.  Induction cooking has to use less power than an electrical resistance cook top.  Yes, induction and resistance are related, but using electrical resistance to heat has to be right up there with a wood-burning stove as to inefficiency.
Short version.  Get this cook top and some Al to Cu wire nuts.  You'll have no buyer's remorse.
BTW, instead of paying out the nose for an induction plate (hob) for use with your non-ferrous cookware, just get a cast iron griddle--preferably one without the built-up ring on the bottom. You're have to deal with the high specific heat, and resulting "thermal battery" of cast iron, but you won't need to use it that much. It's something that you'll probably want to have, anyway.

One year later: Outstanding!


We put this freezer in our basement. The only outlet we had was a GFI, so I read the manual to see if there was any reason not to plug it into a GFI. There was nothing about plugging the freezer into a GFI in the manual. (For those of you who don't know GFI is, it is the type of outlet you have in your bathroom to create a shorter circuit so that when you drop your hair dryer into the sink you don't die. It's a circuit breaker, just at the wall instead out at your circuit breaker box.) And after putting a little food in it and going on vacation it tripped the GFI. We lost about $500 of food and we can't get the awful smell out of it. And here is where the story begins....

GE support sent a technician out to look at our freezer. He confirmed the awful smell, and plugged it in to see if if was running (and it was). He told me that I shouldn't plug it into a GFI. When I told him there was nothing in the manual he understood why I was upset. A day later GE support called me back to tell me that they would give us a "deal" of $167.50 for a new freezer (plus a shipping fee). They then informed us that we had 30 days to accept their offer (even with eight months left on the warranty) and that it was their final offer. They said that it wasn't covered because it was plugged into a GFI. I explained that the manual said nothing about GFI. They said that the manual says you have to plug it into a regular outlet. After some back and forth I asked the tech if he knew what a GFI was and he fully admitted that he didn't. I asked for his manager, which turned out the be the manager who made the decision. After talking with her a while I asked her if she knew what a GFI was and she immediately admitted that she didn't know. I got the customer service from Ultimate Electronics (where I got it from) involved). Finally GE technical support admitted that they weren't technical and would have an engineer call me. The tech who came out to us called me and we had a very short conversation because we understood each other, and, more importantly, he understood why it should be replaced. Ultimate called GE on my behalf, but they wouldn't give us anything more than this offer. The offer didn't include their shipping fee which would make it more expensive than what we originally paid. The very friendly and helpful Ultimate representative didn't know what to do to help me but they were more than willing to do what they could. A GFI won't trip unless there is a power surge from a device plugged into it. The only thing plugged into this GFI outlet was the freezer.

So we lost $500 worth of food and have a ruined $200 freezer after a couple months of use because GE won't stand behind their product. So we'll go out of our way to avoid buying any GE products after how much this $200 freezer cost us.

Bottom line, I hope you never have to call GE if this freezer fails. GE Support Case #10260539. Honestly, this is the worst customer service I think I've ever had.


I live in an apartment and, although we have a laundry room, there is only one washer and dryer for 8 units, it's downstairs and I had to hoard quarters (6 per load).  I finally got tired of sharing with the neighbors and having such a small window of time to do laundry (i.e. not while I'm at work, not after 10pm, etc).

I looked at washer/dryer combos a couple of years ago and didn't see anything that looked worth the cost.  When I tried again a few weeks ago I came across the LG and was pleasantly surprised by the mostly positive reviews. I spent a LOT of time reading reviews and researching the LG so I was pretty familiar with the pros and cons of the machine by the time I got it.  I was able to order it online while it was on sale and used an additional 12% off coupon that made the price more palatable.  It also let me spring for the titanium version that I just like the looks of.

I've had the unit for about a week now and I am extremely pleased with it.  After a couple of trips to the hardware store (casters, a mixer/y hose and a quick release adapter for the faucet) I was up and running within minutes.  I'm on the second floor and am very surprised at how quiet this machine is.  It actually makes less noise than my dishwasher and, since the neighbors have never complained about that, I'm assuming I'll have no problems with the washer. I was also worried about it dancing across the floor on its wheels (since my designated shopper bought casters without locks and I was too impatient to go exchange them) but I park it on my kitchen rug and it stays in place, no problem.

An entire load takes less time than I expected (after reading some reviewers complaints) and the clothes are perfectly dry once you pull them out of the machine and let them air for a couple of seconds.  I have noticed that items come out more wrinkled then they do in a conventional dryer but, for me, that's a small tradeoff for the convenience.

I put a load in yesterday before I went to work and set the timer to finish about the time I get home.  I walked in the door to the pleasant scent of clean clothes and hung them up - very nice. I expect that I will be doing this most days so the additional time to run a load won't make any difference for me. Also, the added benefit of not having to be home to transfer the load from the washer to the dryer means I can truly set-and-forget my laundry.  I am loving this!

One minor complaint is the child-lock. I don't have children and would prefer to be allowed to take my chances opening the door once the load is complete or on a whim mid-cycle. It would be nice to be able to disable this 'feature'.

All in all, if you've done your research and understand the limitations of this machine (smaller loads, longer cycle times, more wrinkles) and still want one I think you will be very, very pleased with it.


My dishwasher is over 14 yrs. old and still running great, but the top rack had alot of damage to the vinyl and resulting rust.  I didn't realize there was a repair product like this, and it should have been addressed long before the rack was so far gone.  Nonetheless, it seems to have done a good job, although I just did it a few days ago so don't know how long it will hold up.  I think one would definitely get the best results if it was used at the first sign of rust or damage to the vinyl coating.  Also, if you do have alot of areas to be repaired, DEFINITELY get more than one bottle.  In fact, I may order a second bottle to go over the areas again (I was stingy w/ the second coat because the bottle was almost empty), as well as touch up some minor cracks in the vinyl coating of the lower rack, not yet broken or rusted.  Another thing that makes it difficult to repair large areas is the fact that it clumps up very quickly.  I had a jar of paint thinner right there to dip the brush in in order to keep it pliable during use...also recap and shake virgorously often during use.  Even if it doesn't last a long time, it defintely improved the looks of my rusted rack, and it keeps the rust from transferring to your dishes.  The cost is minimal and well worth it in my opinion, even if it's only a temporary fix.  In addition, the company (RusSan Enterprises) was SUPER about fast correspondence, fast shipping and great packaging.  I give it 4 stars rather than 5 because of the fact that it clumps and thickens so quickly, it makes it hard to get full use of an entire bottle.  However, based on initial results and the overall dramatic improvement in the looks of the damaged rack, I WOULD DEFINITELY RECOMMEND THIS PRODUCT AND THIS COMPANY!

UPDATE:  As of November, 2010, the majority of the repairs to my dishwasher racks were still holding nicely from my initial repair job using this product. Some of the most badly damaged areas....large areas that were very badly rusted, almost completely through the wire in places....were just starting to show rust through the applied product, but I think those areas could've been fixed up again with another application.  We moved in Nov. 2010, so I won't know for sure just how long the repairs lasted....perhaps longer than the old dishwasher itself. This is an amazing product!  As I said in my initial review, if repairs would be done at first signs of rust/damage, the results would be even better (nicer looking, for sure, and lasting longer without the need for reapplication).  But, in my experience, it also worked on badly damaged racks, certainly worth a try if you're trying to eek out more use from a dishwasher that still runs but has damaged racks (new racks are quite expensive, more than what the old dishwasher was worth in my situation).  Again and still, I highly recommend this product....quick, inexpensive fix for damaged dishwasher racks!


For those who have used those ineffectual microwave oven/range hood combos, you will find this Broan AP 130 fan/hood with recirculating kit a God-send.  Your house is cleaner and your fabrics do not retain kitchen smells.

I used a triple-filtered recirculating Broan Microtek hood/fan system for about 10 years, and found it acceptable for its nonvented application.  This newer AP130 hood and fan seems to work even better with the Broan recirculating kit.

First, the fan.  The highest setting is certainly less noisy than most vacuum cleaners, and I can hear the TV and people speak from short distances.  I do not mind 10-15 minutes of this fan operating on high at dinner time to keep my apartment free from a lot of grease and cooking odors.  It does not affect my hearing or annoy me especially.  Lower speeds of course, go down to an almost whisper setting.

I seem to think the non-vented technology is a bit better, even though it is the same triple filter as the older Microtek, the 88F available at many on-line filter outlets.  First the air hits the standard aluminum grease trap filter.  Then the air goes through three layers of material, including a charcoal impregnated one.  You must keep changing the three-layer filter often depending on how often you cook smelly, greasy food, from three months to a year.  Each pair of the 88F filters cost around $30 when bought on line. so it is a cheap alternative to a dark greasy ceiling, cabinets (inc. handles) and walls.  Besides the whole home smells better over the long term.  Installation of the filters takes less than 30 seconds, once you become familiar with the process.  Of course, the aluminum grease trap filters last indefinitely.  Do not put the latter in the dishwasher unless you do not mind the discoloration from the detergent.

The AP130 hood itself is tall and deep, giving a great stainless steel dimension to the kitchen decor.  I also bought the Broan SS backsplash which completes the look of the AP 130 and the NDK35830SS recirculating kit for nonvented installations.  The two LED lamps work well at high, however the ones I bought have a high-frequency "vibration" on the lower setting.  No problem there as I just keep it on high.  If I need a night light in the kitchen, I use the refrigerator on-door water dispenser light.  Yes, it is a bit awkward to find the controls hidden under the hood, but it makes the kitchen hood look cleaner without clutter.

I am very happy with this unit with the optional recirculating kit.  Of course, I wish I had ductwork and an exterior wall for my kitchen fan to exhaust the air outdoors.  In that absence of that ideal solutions to kitchen odors, this is the next-best thing.


For those who have used those ineffectual microwave oven/range hood combos, you will find Broan AP 130 hood/fan with recirculating kit NDK35830SS a God-send.  Your house is cleaner and your fabrics do not retain kitchen smells.

I used a triple-filtered recirculating Broan Microtek hood/fan system for about 10 years, and found it acceptable for its nonvented application.  This newer AP130 hood and fan seems to work even better with the Broan recirculating kit NDK35830SS.

First, the AP130 fan.  The highest setting is certainly less than most vacuum cleaners, and I can hear the TV and people speak from short distances.  I do not mind 10-15 minutes of this fan operating on high at dinner time to keep my apartment free from a lot of grease and cooking odors.  It does not affect my hearing or annoy me especially.  Lower speeds of course, go down to an almost whisper setting.

I seem to think the technology is a bit better for the recirculating kit, even though it is the same triple filter as the older Microtek, the 88F available at many on-line filter outlets.  First the air hits the standard aluminum grease trap filter.  Then the air goes through three layers of material, including a charcoal impregnated one.  You must keep changing the three-layer filter often depending on how often you cook smelly, greasy food, from three months to a year.  Each pair of the 88F filters cost around $30 when bought on line. so it is a cheap alternative to dark greasy ceiling, cabinets and walls.  Besides the whole home smells better over the long term.  Installation of the filters takes less than 30 seconds, once you become familiar with the process.  Of course, the aluminum grease trap filters last indefinitely.  Do not put the latter in the dishwasher unless you do not mind the discoloration from the detergent.

The AP130 hood itself is tall and deep, giving a great stainless steel dimension to the kitchen decor.  I also bought the Broan SS backsplash which completes the look of the AP 130 and the recirculating kit for nonvented installations.  The two LED lamps work well at high, however the ones I bought have a high-frequency "vibration" on the lower setting.  No problem there as I just keep it on high.  If I need a night light in the kitchen, I use the refrigerator on-door water dispenser light.  Yes, it is a bit awkward to find the controls hidden under the hood, but it makes the kitchen hood look cleaner without clutter.

I am very happy with this unit with the optional recirculating kit.  Of course, I wish I had ductwork and an exterior wall for my kitchen fan to exhaust the air outdoors.  In that absence of that ideal solutions to kitchen odors, this is the next-best thing.


Our dryer blew the thermal breaker and stopped running. Ordered the parts and it was recommended that the vents be cleaned to alleviate the overheating condition and avoid a vent fire. Found my kit at Lowe's and purchased it there. All of the parts are very well constructed. Heavy plastic adapters, and well made brush pieces. Rods were flexible enough to bend into a U shape. Used the small long brush to do the duct work inside the dryer. Do NOT use the rounder shorter small brush! Attached it to one rod and carefully worked it into the screen slot. Moved it up and down and back and forth to clean out the slot. Then removed the long brush and attached the short round brush to a rod using the enclosed set screws. Went to the back of the dryer and ran this brush in and out several times twisting by hand. Used a vaccume to suck up the loosened dust and lint. No issues. My vent has one 45 degree turn going in then a straight 14 foot run to the outside. NO VENT SHOULD HAVE A 90 DEGREE TURN!! If your vent has a 90 degree turn it is installed incorrectly and should be reinstalled correctly according to code. With the small short brush still attached to rod one I worked it into the vent opening and pushed it by the first bend. No problem. I pushed the rod in manually while turning slightly as I went by hand. When I had most of the rod in the vent, I added another rod. Worked this into the vent and repeated without incident until all 4 rods were attached and I felt the brush pop out the end of the line. There is a drill attachment included with the kit. Its part of the obstruction cleaner. Leave the C shaped piece off and attach the shaft to your rod end and chuck it in your drill. If you can turn the torque setting down on your drill so if the brush gets hung up it will not damage the tool. Start slowly and work up to a slow to medium speed. Do not run the drill at high speed! So not use a large drill! Do not ever run the drill in reverse!! I attached my DeWalt drill, and turned the torque setting to 3. Starting slowly with all 4 rods attached I gave it power until it started spinning. I moved the brush in an in and out motion while I drew out the rods one by one and removed them as I went. No problems. I had a short 5 foot section of flex pipe to connect from the dryer to the vent. I temporarily connected this and ran the dryer. Checking the vent outlet with a piece of tissue on a stick I had great air flow and a ton of dirt and debris came out of the line. Although it shows that you can run the cleaner brush through the flexible piping, do not attempt to do it. Its not worth the time to attempt to hold the pipe correctly and work the tool. You'll never get all of the lint and debris out of the tons of little creases anyway. for a few bucks, replace the flexible pipe. I replaced my flexible pipe with a new one, and put the dryer back into position ready for a load to dry. Its important to actually read the instructions, they are there for a reason and cover all of the issues buyers have complained about that should not have happened.


I had not cleaned our dryer duct in 22 years!  I know, my bad.  It is 26' long (mostly horizontal), with 4) 90deg. bends (not including the 2 elbows in the vent pipe which connects the dryer to the wall), so it is far from the "ideal" vent system.

I had noticed that clothes were taking too long to dry in our Maytag gas dryer, so I did what has worked in the past - I replaced the coils on the gas valve, and even threw in a replacement operating (cycling) thermostat (which had never been replaced).  I did my normal cleaning of the internals of the dryer, including the filter housing; but still the dryer ran too long.

I looked into the outside dryer vent hood, and saw quite an accumulation of lint in the pipe, so I ordered this kit, plus the set of 4 extra rods, due to the length of the duct.  When the kit arrived, I began by attaching a shop vac to the inside end of the vent, and using the brush on a cordless drill from that end.  I used a dust collector drum between my shop vac and the vent, so that the shop vac would not get clogged up.  That worked great by the way!  Anyway, I was able to clean out the 1st 5' of the duct, including 2) 90deg. bends, but that's as far as I could get, the brush was up against an obstruction of some sort.

While the shop vac was running inside, I went outside and could not feel any suction at all at the vent hood, so I knew I had a major blockage.  I left the shop vac running inside, and started using the brush from the outside.  I encountered 2 more 90deg. bends just inside the house, then a long straight run.  I slowly added rods until I had 7 rods in the duct, where I hit the blockage I had encountered from inside.  It would not budge.  Since it was closer to the inside end, I went back inside and put the blockage removal tool on the end of the rod and started adding rods while still using the shop vac from the inside.  I captured the clog and pulled it back to the inside.  It really resisted going around the 2) 90deg. bends, but I got it out in one piece.  It was a hard-packed ball of lint, oval in shape, about 10" long!  Altogether, we removed over 10lbs. of lint from the duct!

After the clog was gone, I used the brush from both ends again to be sure that the entire run was clean.  Now, when the dryer is on, the 3 flapper doors on the outside hood stand straight out, and the dryer runs for a much shorter time!

I am a technician by trade, and have several mechanical hobbies.  I appreciate well-designed tools.  This kit is EXCELLENT!


I am replacing a older dryer with a front loader that mounts on a 15" pedestal.  Because of the additional height, I had to move the wall dryer vent up about 15".  In this home, about 10 years old, the vent is a 4" galvenized pipe that runs up an interior wall and vents through the roof, about 17 feet.  In all of my previous homes, the vent was straight out a concrete wall and only about 8" long.  After I cut the duct, I noticed quite a bit of lint in the pipe.  Since I had just purchased this home, I don't know if the accumulation was just "normal" or if the previous owner had just not been consistent in cleaning the dryer lint trap.  It was much easier to clean the vent now rather than pull out the dryer later so I order this cleaning system.  I had to order the extension kit because I needed more than the 12' of rod included.  The quality of this product is excellent and it comes with the best manual I've ever seen for such a simple and inexpensive product.  The manual clearly shows how to use the system in different situations.  The vacuum adapter fits inside the 4" duct and attached to my shop vac. Virtually no dust was observed during the cleaning.  A port in the adapter allows you to run the rod and the brush up the vent, attaching additional 3' rods as needed.  The instructions say to tighen each joint with pliers and then tape them so they won't come apart if you accidently have the drill set to counterclockwise rotation.  I followed the instructions, but unless you are a total klutz with a drill, you probably don't have to do this.  Even so, tighening and taping and undoing took very little time since there are only a few joints.  I had my wife start and stop the vacuum as I connected the rods and worked the brush up and down the duct with the whole process requiring less than 15 minutes.  I opened my shop vacuum when I was done and was surprised at the amount of lint in there.  The manual (and my new dryer manual) caution that if your wall-to-dryer ductwork is either vinyl or thin foil, you should replace it with the semi-rigid flexible metal ductwork readily available at big box hardware store.  I wasn't aware of this before.  The vinyl and perhaps the thin foil ductwork cannot contain a duct fire.  The thin metal ductwork is nice and flexible but the flexibility inherently reduces the diameter of the duct resulting in less air flow and perhaps longer drying cycles.  More importantly, when you look inside you see that the coils are big lint collectors.  I don't know if I will ever use this system again as I am older and probably won't be pulling the dryer out unless I have to.  But if I have to, I will clean the duct while I'm there.  Great to see such a product like this that is easy to use and does what it says.


This is an excellent and easy to use product.  The whole process from taking parts out of the box to cleaning everything and packing it back took me 30-40 minutes with the cleanup taking the longest.

I knew that 12' of flexible rods that come with the LintEater Dryer Vent Cleaning System would not be enough for my application, so I bought an extension pack from the local Lowe's that had the best price for LintEater extensions.  I used the total of six rods, which is 18' and I had about 1.5 foot from the drill to the vent and about 1 foot came out on the other side.

The manual says that you can clean the vent from the outside or from the inside.  I decided to go from the inside thinking that the brush would push loosened lint outside like it looks in the picture on the product page.  I used the supplied shop-vac attachment to minimize mess, and it worked well.  There was a little lint that the brush pushed to the outside, but there was about 2 gallons of lint in my 5 gallon shop-vac (Vacmaster VWM510 Wall Mount Wet/Dry Vacuum Powered by Industrial 2-Stage Motor with Remote Control, 5 Gallon, 5 Peak HP).  I also pulled a half of a lizard from the vent, but I could not find the second half even after running the system through the vent one more time time.

The manual suggests using a cordless drill with a clutch, I am sure to avoid damage to your duct, but my cordless drill's battery was dead, so I used a corded drill and it worked fine.  You must be sure that the drill is set to turn clockwise or the rods may disconnect inside the duct.

Everyone's project will be different, but I strongly suggest using a shop-vac to minimize the mess.  Lint looks solid when it is stuck inside the dryer vent, but it becomes very dusty when loosened.  I also found that although it is tempting to connect all rods from the start, it is not convenient to use the system with too many rods outside the vent because you end up standing with the drill too far from the vent and the rods create a slack and then twist together similar to how a twisted rope would twist together when you fold it in half.  I started with two rods and connected each next one when all but 5" of the system had disappeared in the vent.  Additionally, the shop-vac attachment is designed for a 2" hose, and the manual does not recommend using smaller diameter hoses to avoid clogs, but my shop-vac has 1 1/4" hose, so I used duct tape to seal the hose against the shop-vac attachment and the 21' hose did not get clogged.

Overall, this is a great product and, if you want to clean your dryer vent, I suggest you give it a try.


We purchased this Emerson Ice Maker at an actual brick and mortar Target store--AFTER reading these excellent reviews on Amazon.com.
We needed it THAT day, and did not want to wait for shipping time.
However, I must admit, I never even knew that an appliance like this was in existence before seeing it on Amazon.

My husband's job keeps him outside all day in the summer, and he was "buying" two large bags of ice daily for his cooler, so that he can have necessary cold water bottles in the heat. Now I make him ice at home, not only saving money at the convenience store, but with much less hassle.

I have encountered a couple of the same "issues" as other reviewers and have this short solution:

1) If you are in a hurry, (altho this is not stated in the owner's manual), when the basket fills with ice before I get to it to take the ice out, and the red ICE sensor light comes on---just take the ice out (I store mine in zip loc bags in the other freezer)---and just touch the silver colored 1-inch long "cold sensor" with your thumb, and it warms it enough for it to immediately go back into the making ice cycle.

2) About the low water signal--I just try to keep pouring water into it periodically, and keep the reservoir filled or semi-filled, so it does not stop making ice (with the red low water signal). It sits on my countertop between the microwave and the dish drainer, so it is no problem as I walk by it to glance over and see what is going on.
This unit makes at least TWO huge bags of ice in a day for me. (I transfer the smaller batches of ice to a big blue "Large" Zip-Loc 15" X 15" bag with handles, and then put it into the other freezer to "harden" and save.)

3)  We do NOT feel that it is noisy as some have commented.  However, our kitchen/living room is a fairly large area, but still--my home Whirlpool side-by-side frig/freezer makes more noise than this little unit.

The shape of the pieces of ice are just like some that you find at Hotel ice makers--partially an egg shape, with a long cylinder hole in the middle. (By the way--our German Shepherd dog prefers these ice cubes to the other ones the Whirlpool freezer makes at home!!) It is a great shape, and seems to keep frozen for quite a while--Our two large bags stay frozen for over 14 hours on the job--in the sun--in 90-plus degree heat in just a standard cooler (NOT a 5-day cooler).

We LOVE this little family friend, and feel that we will make back the money that we invested in it THIS year--based on the amount of commercial ice we HAD been purchasing every summer.

So, we would HIGHLY recommend this very SIMPLE unit.  Not complicated at all.  It's one of those things that I said, "Why did I not think about inventing this???

Hope you enjoy yours also as well!!!


After years of lugging those cold, heavy bags of ice around, and trying to make them fit in the freezer, and pushing stuff around any time I needed ice (I live in South Texas - I need ice all the time), I finally broke down and bought this high-rated ice maker.  I did my homework before buying, and this one sounded tops. I bought it at Target for $109.

I absolutely love it!

Mine is not noisy at all.  When it drops the ice, it does sound like ice dropping into a basket (duh) and afterwards, you can hear the splash of the ice tray filling again.  Otherwise, all I hear is a gentle fan noise, which is a noise I like, especially when it's making me some ice.

I got it home, thoroughly cleaned and rinsed the insides and dried it.  Waited half an hour per instructions and began making ice.  The first ice had a little bit of the chlorine-like/new plastic smell to it, but it tasted like frozen water - no bad taste whatsoever.  This is using water from an under-sink water filter system.  It recommends using distilled water - didn't have any.

I put it on the largest size and it spit out 9 tiny little cubes in 11 minutes.  I was worried.

It was just getting started though!  The cubes got steadily bigger and more densely frozen with each batch.  Helpful hint:  Use cold water or put a few cubes of ice in the water well when you add water the first time.  This makes the unit colder faster and therefore more efficient. Do it both ways and you'll see the difference in the ice when you use cold water.

I ran it for about 3.5 hours and got the equivalent of a big ole bag of ice.  I put the ice in quart-size baggies and they go just about anywhere scattered around in my freezer, as opposed to taking up a ton of room like those bags.  It's like getting a new freezer, too!  And I'll never buy ice again, or worry about my kitchen flooding while I'm at work because of refrigerator icemaker has gone awry.

It only stopped once - when the ice basket got full. I used the cute scoop (comes with) to clear the basket into a baggy, and pushed the power button and it started right back up.

The unit will make a LOT of ice before needing more water, but you can top it off at any time at all without disturbing the process.

A wonderful kitchen tool; I now consider it a necessity!

UPDATED JUNE 2012

Still works perfectly.  Use it at least once a week and stockpile ice that is much tastier than nasty old freezer-made ice!

UPDATED MARCH 2013

I've never had one single moment of trouble with this icemaker and I still absolutely love it.  I did misplace the plug once.  Wrote an email to Emerson and got an entire new plug assembly for the cost of shipping ($5).  I can't imagine why so many other reviewers are having trouble with theirs.  Mine is perfect and has been in use for years now.


I didn't buy my Electrolux Slide-In dual fuel convection range thru Amazon. I bought a Sears Elite dual fuel range. But it was made by Electrolux.
No matter what model you are looking at, you need to find out if the oven light is an old fashioned appliance bulb, or the new halogen bulb. In every model I've looked at since the oven bulbs in mine burned out, they have all been the halogen type.
Here's why:
You should know if you buy this model, or any model of gas or electric or dual fuel range built by Electrolux that when the oven light bulb burns out, it will cost you anywhere from $44.00 to $66.00 to buy the halogen bulb, depending on the model.
This is because Electrolux or who ever supplies the parts requires you to buy the complete light assembly which includes
the bulb. Or it could mean that since the complete assembly must be purchased, the complete assembly must be replaced each time a light bulb burns out. That would mean a service call at a cost of $150.00 to $200.00 to replace a light bulb. And if light bulb(s) continue to burn out each year, my 2 burned out within the first year, this could be an expensive maintenance item that the customer should be able to do themselves for just the cost of an appliance bulb.
The halogen bulb simply pulls out of the ceramic base which would indicate that only the lamp needs to be replaced.
Either Electrolux or the parts supplier is trying to gouge the consumer by requiring them to purchase an expensive part that isn't needed to get a relatively inexpensive part that is needed, or there is something wrong with the light housing assembly requiring the complete thing to be replaced each time a light burns out. I can't get an answer to this because I can't find anyone at Electrolux dealers or Electrolux part supliers or the Electrolux company who can or will answer the questions. And I've tried for over a year and a half now.
I would seriously consider buying a range where a light bulb can be replaced with a bulb instead of the convoluted and
expensive process that Electrolux presents it's customers with.
Also, the electronic control panel went out within 10 months. After it was replaced, the oven temperature was 25 degrees lower than the control panel setting. I called the service tech back. He said there wasn't anything they could do unless the temperature difference was greater than 35 degrees, because the oven has up to a 35 degree adjustment that can be made in the control panel.
I like the look of the range. I love the dual fuel. But I detest a product that is so poorly designed that a simple thing like a light bulb replacement(it's one of the only things that the customer can do themselves on the new ranges)is turned into an expensive hassle for the customer. And I really don't like a company who won't even respond to your questions.


I purchased a Bosch washer (model WAS20160UC) and dryer  (model WTV76100US) set in December 2011.  This is the experience I have had with the Bosch appliances.  It is a vented dryer, not the condensation model.  This review is mostly about the dryer.

Pros:  Stylish (witch makes no difference since the dryer is so poor)

Cons:  This dryer takes very long to dry even small loads.  It  will get warm but not hot.  A Bosch technician measured the temperature of the dryer at 122 degrees Fahrenheit.  But, he informed me that this was normal for this dryer.  In one test; two bath towels, two hand towels, and one facial towel were washed in the washer and rinsed on maximum spin to remove as much of the water as possible.  It took the dryer 1hr. 20 min. to dry the load.  After many phone calls and 3 or 4 service calls, they replaced the dryer.  It performed as poorly as the first. So, I called an electrician to really find out what was going on.  With freshly washed towels in the dryer, he observed the dryer drawing 10 amps (about the maximim rating) for 15 to 20 seconds.  Then it went down to 5 amps for about about 30 seconds (he described it as half heat) then down to room temperature air coming out of the exhaust for another couple minutes.  It repeats this cycle.  At no time does the dryer actually get hot enough to remove the moisture from the load.  It mostly just uses ambiant temperature air to dry the clothes.  If touch the clothes in the middle of the load, they mearly feel slightly warm. While it is not practical for most people to use a clothes line, I think it would be just as effective as this dryer.

The thing that bugs me the most about this whole debacle is this:  Both Bosch and the appliance store had the attitude that I should just accept the poor performance because it is a European design.  I heard many excuses defending an appliance that I truly believe they KNOW does not perform as it should.

If you buy a coffee maker, do you expect it to make coffee in about 15 minutes?  If you buy a blender, do you expect it to blend what you put in it?  Well, when you buy a DRYER, you kind of expect it to actively dry.

In fairness, this washer/dryer set may be suitable for a single person who does small loads of laundry.  You can expect a small load to take 60 minutes to wash and 80 minutes to dry.  So you are right around 3.5 to 4 hours for two small loads.

Update:  The appliance store has taken back the Bosch washer and dryer.  I have replaced them with a GE unitized washer/dryer (model GTUP240EWH)  This dryer completely dried the same load in 30 minutes.

I hope this review is helpful for you.


My hope in writing this review is to keep someone else from making the mistake of purchasing this dishwasher.  We built a new home in 2009 and purchased a complete set of Electrolux appliances, spending over $12,000.  For the most part we are pleased with the performance of the other pieces, but they haven't been "trouble free".  Back to our worst mistake, this DISHWASHER!  I could write a book on the "error" numbers, which were sometimes valid and sometimes "no problem found".  We had problems with a horrible smell, mold inside, and water leaks under the unit.  We burnt through the standard 1 year warranty, and even though the unit had problems from day 1 Electrolux did not offer much assistance.

After another "leak" under the unit I began to research the problem and learned quickly we were not the only ones having issues.  I read about a "repair kit" Electrolux was installing on units still under warranty.  I made one final call to the 800 number and asked to speak with a Manager.  I reminded her that we had spent over 12K with their company and this dishwasher had problems from day 1.  She authorized a repairman to install the kit at their expense.  I had high hopes the problems would finally be resolved.... but the problems were only starting.

Leaks under the unit finally stopped, but the smell, and intermittent "errors" continue to occur.  I even went as far as replacing the control panel at my own expense ($300) since I read this could cause the intermittent errors.  It did not resolve the problems.  We finally came to a conclusion this dishwasher model is junk, and we needed to bite the bullet, and throw away a 5 year old $1,300 appliance.  Being a typical husband, I kept stalling on spending the money... and that was my biggest mistake.

We started the dishwasher and left our home for a couple hours.  Upon returning and opening the front door I could hear the now infamous "error beep".  There was a stranger noise I didn't recognize... somewhat like Niagara Falls.  I entered the kitchen to find water flowing across our hardwood floors and the dishwasher still running.  I made the mistake of opening the door on the dishwasher, in an attempt to turn it off, to find the unit completely full of water.  I ran to the garage and killed the power, but the water kept flowing.  I dived under the sink to reach the valve for the dishwasher and killed the water supply.  This was a new issue, the inlet valve stuck open!  The water had found a route downstairs to our walkout basement by running through the opening for the downdraft under the center island.  I used my Shop-Vac to suck up over 200 gallons of water from downstairs alone.  Our only saving grace was that end of the walkout was not finished yet.  My wife and I agreed the Electrolux dishwasher would never be turned back on.  Today I installed a Bosch!!!!!  The dishwasher from hell is headed for the dump.

Unless you have a fetish for pain and suffering DO NOT PURCHASE THIS DISHWASHER!


I have been pleased with all Kitchen Aide items I purchased in the past, and wanted a double drawer dish washer for my newly remodeled kitchen 5 years ago. My husband and I looked into purchasing this model. At the time, we could find only 2 dishwashers that had double drawers and couldn't find any reviews on either one. Taking our past experience with Kitchen Aide appliances into consideration, we purchased this. We are glad we didn't write a review within the first year. It started out great, although within the second year, our problems started. The dishes weren't coming clean and the drain basket kept popping up. Naturally, my husband thought I was putting the utensils in upside down causing the handles of the utensils to be part of the problem. After having 2 separate plumbers look at this and not being able to locate why this was happening, my husband wanted to purchase another dishwasher, one that didn't have drawers. I insisted I loved the 2 drawer dishwasher but he knew better. As time went on it took longer and became more difficult to get clean dishes. I opted to try liquid detergent instead of powder. This eliminated the problem of soap residue on the dishes & glasses, but it wasn't long before other problems started to happen.  Once again, the dishes weren't coming clean, although this time is was not because of soap residue(the water was hot enough but for some reason many times the dishes looked as dirty as when they went into the machine) and a double wash cycle had to be done. Over the next 3 years problems turned into nightmares with more and more things going wrong. The settings weren't working properly, the water was remaining in one or both of the drawers after washing was finished, the drain baskets were popping up more and more frequently, and the blade wouldn't rotate past the drain basket. Fixing it almost every time the dish washer was used, my husband once again wanted to purchase a new dish washer but again, I loved my 2 drawer option and insisted on continuing to empty water residue out of the washers when I had to and pushing the drain basket back into place. Last evening I changed my mind as I was now disgusted with my dishwasher. The water in the top washer looked like dishes sitting in a bucket of water. The blade wasn't turning and this time the water wouldn't drain at all. It was definitely the dish washer and not the pipes as the sink was fine. A once die hard Kitchen Aide purchaser, I began losing my faith in Kitchen Aide large appliances. I am now in search for a new dish washer. After coming across the reviews for this, I wish we had known before what I know now.  I am writing to let those who may want a double drawer dish washer to think twice before purchasing this. It is nice looking but that doesn't clean dishes & silverware! P.S. I give this 1 star for looks only, as for performance, I give this 0 stars!! Sometimes purchasing an expensive item doesn't always mean it is better as we found out with this.


I wanted to add my two cents since I appreciate this posting because it has helped me save my fridge and I have done a lot of research since then. The first thing you should do is a continuity check on the three compressor terminals to see if any of the leads are shorted together. If they are then you need to replace the compressor since the transformer windings are shorted. If the compressor is ok then its likely the Overload Heat Protect part which is failing likely because theres a design flaw with the part. I was able to remove mine then reinsert it to get the freezer to work again though it didn't work well (compressor kept turning on and off and when I replaced it the compressor is staying on). But it gave me enough time to order a new part. The part sells for less than $9 on ebay. Do a search for these part numbers since they will all work for the 110V part: 6750C, 4387913, 2154759, 4357207, 4387766, 4387836, ER4387913, AP3108669, PS371538, SZ4387766, 77600, 586521, AH371538, EA371538. The 110V part is cheaper (has the terminal in the center vs off to one side like the 110V part). Now the 220V part is cheaper (less than $1 each from China) and may work but I was concerned that it could draw less current than the 110V part needs but it could still work so you might want to try it. Do a search for this part number on ebay: R600A. If the Overload part isn't the issue then do a search for QP2-4.7 3 pin or 4 pin and they sell for under $4. In addition I was able to get the manufacturer to send me the two parts since the freezer was still under warranty (it was either that or ship the freezer out which would be a huge shipping fee). Happy hunting!

Update on this. My freezer stopped working 1 week after I replaced the Overload Heat Protect part so I replaced the QP2-4.7 3pin Start Relay and its been weeks and its going strong. I also re-installed my old Overload Heat Protect part that I could shake and it made the shaking noise and it works fine. The diagnoses that a shaky Overload Heat Protect part shows you the part is bad is dead wrong. Its the Start Relay that was replaced which is defective and they are really cheap to buy (likely why the fail so often!).

I actually still had the freezer under warranty but they said I had to ship the freezer to Canada at my expense. I asked them to just send me those to parts and I am still waiting for them..waiting Finally got a reply from them and they said they don't carry the two parts. If this is true, this means they aren't repairing anything. It is a SCAM since the parts are readily available and a huge percentage of their freezers have this defective Start Relay! I called them threatening to raise a class action law suit against them but could tell they aren't going to do anything because this is what the lady said. If anyone does sue them, count me in..