I have run about 2-3 loads through this dishwasher every day since purchasing it a few weeks ago. Probably about the best money I have ever spent on a home related good. Ultimately I made it only 2 years in apartment living before caving to get this. The first was my senior year of college, and the second was last year. I grew up always having a dishwasher so to not have one was painful. I also find an almost bizarrely enormous sense of satisfaction loading up this little dishwasher, squirting a little Cascade gel in, and running it. It has taken me these few weeks to get loading it figured out correctly. I have found that bowls (larger ones anyways) really only fit well standing upright in the section designed for plates, so it's kindof a bowls load or a plates load type of deal. And when you need to wash some 'tupperware' type plastic containers, fuhgedaboudit. Those either go in 1 or 2 pieces with lids amongst a load of other more orderly items, or just scattered about on their own.

Seriously though, the amount of silverware my wife and I go through is almost insane. I'd say we rotate our entire 12-piece set about once every 2 to 3 days; not the big spoons of course though. Those only get used for soup. So when I think back to doing that all manually, it makes my hands feel clammy and dry like they used to get after spending hours in that hot soapy water.

Now I get to listen to the little dishwasher that could wrshump --- wrshump --- wrshump in an oh-so-relaxing cadence while I relax and ponder how the 3.8 gallons (much less than I would have used manually) and .31 kWh will only cost me a few pennies. Isn't technology marvelous?

My parents own a Bosch 800 series washer. Yes those are so dang quiet that you can barely hear it run. But I'm serious when I say that this washer is just about everything the Bosch is, just with about 1/3 of the space inside. It doesn't have all the crazy control buttons, but once you set it to your 'normal' setting, all anyone does is load it up and push Start anyways! And it is actually pretty quiet too, assuming you don't load something in such a way that it directs the water spray straight onto the door (or load a giant 'tupperware' item right next to the door, as those (larger) plastic items tend to make more noise from the water jet).

As for the packaging. Wow. The packaging was designed to withstand CRAZY, like, delivery truck rolled over type accidents or something. It was double boxed, with the internal box suspended by foam inserts at all corners of the outer box. And the washer itself was suspended in the inner box by cardboard pieces at the corners. Dang son. I carried it up the (one) flight of stairs to our apartment and I actually strained my back just a bit. It is heavy, but more than that, awkwardly huge due to the intense packaging, so you end up with a huge lever arm pulling down on you. Seriously, get your friend to help you bring it in your place.


Man oh MAN do I wish these worked fully!

The Everspring Z-wave wireless temperature humidity sensor is built like a tank.  It has some serious heft behind it; feels like you stacked three hockey pucks in your hand.  The buttons feel really good, and the display is large and easy to read from the right angle.  (Pretty much you have to be looking down on the unit from above, so if it's mounted higher than your eyes you're not going to see anything.)

The temperature function was dead on with both units I received.  Actually the temperature resolution was better than I can normally measure without breaking out a thermocouple, and I just didn't care that much.  In other words, well under 1F degree of accuracy, which is great!...

...but the relative humidity readings on these are *absolutely BONKERS!*  There's a well known test called the salt test (google it) where you make a known solution of salt and water, then stick your measuring device (or devices) into an air sealed environment with the salt solution for 24 hours, and they should read 75% RH.  (Cigar afficianados swear by this test to calibrate the hygrometers for their humidors, apparently.)  I figure if it's a test the cigar guys swear by for things that will be ruined by too much or too little humidity, then it has to be a reliable test.  So I ran a salt test on one of these, and included in the bag my non-zwave hygrometer for reference.  After 24 hours, my hygrometer was reading 74% RH (not bad!), while the everspring was reading 90% RH (the maximum value)!!  So I took out the salt pack and threw in some dessicant packs and came back after another 24 hours, my non-zwave hygrometer was reading about 30% RH while the everspring was reading almost 60% RH!

So I contacted The Smartest House and they were >>>extremely<<< gracious and easy to work with -- sixteen million stars for The Smartest House, and they shipped me another unit.  Unfortunately the second unit tested near identically to the first one with the salt test, completely pegging at maximum RH% when it should only be reading 75% RH.

So while I really *really* wanted to like this unit, I can't keep it nor can I recommend it.  At $40, it makes one heck of an expensive temperature probe since the RH% implementation is completely broken on the two units I received.  And since other units (passive infrared from monoprice) do temperature just as well, it makes no sense to keep this one around at all.

On the bright side, it integrates easily with a Vera Edge, but with broken RH% it's all for naught.  Pity, I really WANTED to like these and buy a few of them!


There is nothing like the feeling of when a semi-truck pulls up in front of your house to deliver cool stuff like this. The neighbors watching with curiousity and envy and just being plain nosey. Whatta rush!

We received the dryer within three weeks via JB Hunt. Since we are out here in the middle of nowhere land in Hee Haw America, it is expected.

Gary, the driver was nothing but awesome. He even let my boy climb up in the truck and blow the horn a few times. He absolutely loved that and I'm sure the neighbors did too! He laid on that horn pretty good.

This dryer is perfect for our needs. We don't require alot of bells and whistles on our appliances. Just good old fashioned, simplistic and fully functional items for us please. We had the Kenmore Elite HE3 units... what overpriced, overly complexed garbage they were. Lesson learned.

When I say this is a simple dryer, I meant it. It has just 3 temperature settings and 11 different cycles...

1. Air - No Heat
2. Low Heat
3. High Heat

It was completely unexpected, but it came with a dryer vent kit and a gas line kit. That was extra nice.

I did notice that the pricing on this unit fluxuates quite a bit, like the stock market. Since we ordered this unit, the price had dropped and risen again. Just an observation, nothing else.

You can get the mates to this dryer unit Amana 3.4 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer with Sprekle Porcelain wash basket, NTW4600YQ, White or the Amana 3.4 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer with Dual Action Agitator, Amana 3.4 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer with Dual Action Agitator, NTW4700YQ, White which is currently cheaper and contains more options.

This is a very good floor model/side-by-side dryer and definitely worth considering if you just want simplicity in your life, like us.

Overall, I'm just excited about this dryer.
It's New...
It's Simple To Use...
and It's Mine!


The Amana 6.5 cu. Ft. Traditional Gas Dryer is definitely toward the lower end of gas dryers available. I currently own a front loading, higher-end, Amana washer and have been very pleased with it. Amana is a good, reliable brand.

Size:
- This dryer is slightly smaller than most standard (higher-end) dryers out there (check out the specs listed under Product Description)
- As I mentioned, I currently own a front loading, Amana washer that holds a good amount of clothes. I was initially concerned that the loads would be too large for the dryer to dry, but I was pleased when all the clothes fit into the dryer.

Look:
- I noticed that I struggle with opening the door. I don't know if it's just the luck of the draw or if other people have a problem with the door, but the handle is awkward and small. I can't quite get my hand in the opening to pull so I often have to use both hands. The door is also very stiff, I'm hoping that this is just because it's new and will loosen up over time.
- One thing I did like about the door is that you can change it from opening to the right, to it opening to the left (I had to do this because of the location and position of my washer). The manual came with instructions for changing the side that the door is attached to. It was not difficult to do.
- The dryer is stark white with 2 buttons; one is the dryer setting nob (which has a navy blue color for the different settings) and a button for "start". There is no end-of-cycle chime/notification.
- The lint trap is located on the top right of the dryer. This is also very stiff and I sometimes struggle with pulling it out of the dryer as well as placing it back in however, I'm hoping that this too will become easier with use.

Settings:
- This dryer comes with 11 different cycles with 3 temperature settings (air-no heat, low heat, and high heat). My favorite setting so far is the Automatic Dry: Low Heat. I found this to be the most accurate and it is very delicate for those clothing items that you'd like to dry slowly and gently as to avoid shrinking. I was not that impressed with the Timed Dry setting. I set a large load of towels for 50 minutes and for some reason, the towels were not dry when I went to get them. I prefer the automatic settings because I feel they do the best job of drying your clothes until they are ready to come out- there's no worry of going to get your clothes and them still being wet.
- I enjoyed how quiet this dryer is. My last dryer was noticeably louder while it ran. Because of this, I sometimes forget to go downstairs and get my clothes!

Overall:
- I think this is an excellent-basic dryer. It has many options/dry settings, it has a good drum size, it is quiet while drying your clothes, and it has a reversible door that is easy to change/install.
- I wish it did have an end of cycle chime/notification and an outward door (opening top to bottom).

All in all, I recommend this Amana dryer for those looking for a good quality, and above-economy dryer but not wanting to spend too much for a high-end dryer.


I'm hoping I'll be able to change this review after I get in contact with the company for a new one.

***
Summary:
Maybe this is rare. Maybe just my unit even. My fan worked perfectly for a couple months into the winter. I really got used to it moving the air around the house without electricity and managing to stay almost silent. Unfortunately the quiet factor went out the window when I needed to move it to a new spot. In the process of rotating it a few times, gently setting it down, picking it back up and putting it in its old spot the blades loosened along the neck. It now sounds like someone banging pots together extremely fast if it is not at full speed and wakes me up :(
***

I liked this fan...heck, I LOVED it at first. I even got one for my neighbors as a present! Theirs even works on a very old soapstone stove. But it does work best with metal contact. Not necessarily making modern stoves better for the fan - the higher the temp, the more noticeable the noise

Everything was going good with my fan. I read complaints that it didn't work at all - but eventually realized once I had the fan myself that these people either had a soapstone stove or something too insulated to transfer heat to the fan. I highly doubt more than 1 in 10000 of these is so defective it won't start. It does start quickly in my stove, even over the draft intake part of it, starting up at barely 150 degrees as read by a stick on
thermometer.

Here's when everything went to heck. My steam pot that I also bought here on amazon arrived and I needed to make room for it and hopefully get the fan to move the steam into our dry living room.

I picked up the fan (it was not moving from heat, mind you) and set it over on its side. When I moved it to its new spot I noticed something subtle - the blade mechanism was able to move just a smidgen along the neck connecting it to the thermal mechanism. I didn't think anything of it at all. That is until I got a fire going. The normally near silent fan was now getting up to speed with an audible CLANK ... CLANK ... CLANK increasing in speed as it got hotter. When it reached peak speed, it wasn't as noticeable, but still above my tolerance level for what I had first unboxed.

Now I get woken up if I'm using the fan on the stove and it cools below a certain speed, which is unbearable. At the same time, some nights I'd still rather "try" to use it because it keeps the hot air from stagnating around the stove where I sleep. But in summary, I'm completely heartbroken that something I thought was sturdy and that I loved so much quit on me. It can't be that fragile, right?
I'm hoping for answers. I did not knock it over, have it drop, etc - it's completely intact and looks no different from fresh out of the box. I simply set it down on its back and it was rendered virtually unusable.


I did a lot of research on range hoods before deciding to buy this one. The build quality is true to their YouTube videos, which poke fun at the quality of other similar looking range hoods, and prompted my extensive Google searching. I couldn't find a more powerful hood at the advertised sound level anywhere near this price point.

Although it is not recommended by the manufacturer, I was able to install it by myself. The instructions make you put the mounting plate on the hood before you put it against the wall to make the marks for your drill holes, but I did that with just the mounting plate, which made a one man install very easy. Also, the manufacturer doesn't account for if you have tile behind the hood, so make sure you have some good toggle strap anchors for the body of the hood (pending you have no studs where the mounting plate screws will go), and some regular wall anchors for the top chimney bracket. The instructions to install are adequate, but could be better. They didn't make any mention of the bottom chimney bracket until it was time to put the chimney up, nor did they give good instructions on the order the parts at the bottom of the chimney need to go in. Through a bit of trial and error, I think the order from bottom up is: bottom chimney bracket, black square rubber gasket (which is mentioned nowhere), and then air diverter. The bottom chimney holes were not perfect as other reviewers have mentioned, and I too had the clamp that holds the power cord be in the way of the bottom chimney bracket fully seating itself. I think it would have been fine to just remove the clamp, but I shaved mine enough to allow the bracket to slide all the way on. I also opted for a rigid pipe between the air diverter and my connection to the exhaust pipe rather than their flexible pipe, but that was personal preference.

Performance is great. What I find interesting is that it barely gets louder as you go through the speeds, but you can definitely tell that it is moving more air. The 300 CFM microwave range hood we had before was louder and did way less. My wife loves that she can cook the greasiest of things and her clothes don't smell like it afterwards. I spilled some flour in the bread machine cavity that started burning when the bread started baking about 15 ft away, and the fan cleared the room quickly. The lights are great, though I wish they matched the LED under cabinet lighting I installed, which has a warmer (yellower) look, or vise versa. The remote is gimmicky, but it works fine. I haven't tried the fan timer yet, but it sounds very useful. My only complaint is that there is no way to illuminate the panel to see the clock other than putting it in automatic mode, and my automatic mode seems to come on randomly sometimes. I may call the manufacturer about that.

All in all, I am very satisfied with the hood and would recommend it to others.


Pros.  My third counter-top ice-maker--all similarly priced.  My first EdgeStar.  Every day, all day use.  First one made tubular, opaque ice, small amounts, ice melted rapidly, device lasted about 1 1/2 yrs and stopped functioning.  Second unit similar to EdgeStar, made clear ice, came out in almost solid blocks, very difficult to break apart, took about 45 mins or longer to make first batch each day, loud, and almost impossible to get into crevices to clean.  It, too, lasted about 1 1/2 yrs and began leaking what looked like freon into the water.  Have had the EdgeStar for a few months.  Very quiet.  Produces beautifully clear ice, large batches, sheets break apart very easily, only takes a few minutes for each batch, and entire bin is over-flowing in very short amount of time.  More exposed areas (fewer inaccessible crevices) for easier thorough cleaning than with the two prior ice-makers.  Very helpful online video covering main points of unit's operation--but could be a little more detailed.  At this point, I'm extremely happy with it.  Would recommend.
Cons.  A thick protective coating is not just wrapped around the assembled unit.  Unit is assembled with the coating already on the separate pieces, which makes it almost impossible to remove.  In other words, the screws, outer edges, etc., are all assembled on top of the tough plastic coating.  The coating is stuck in between all the seams.  Especially difficult to remove from the bottom of the unit, since you can't tip it on its side.  It takes two people to get the stuff off--one person holding the unit over the edge of the counter, and a second person getting underneath to remove.  When we opened the box, a couple of screws were just floating around loose in the bottom.  At least half of the screws in the bottom of the unit were wiggling loosely, and could not be tightened, as they were totally stripped out.  This is concerning, but the few functioning screws holding the bottom on seem to be adequate to do the job.  (If I had picked the unit up from a local store, I would have returned it, and insisted on a replacement with a securely attached bottom.  EdgeStar's return policy would have entailed me paying for shipping and not sure I would have ended up with anything better.  Not happy with that situation, but seemed too much of a hassle to deal with.)  Access to water delivery pipe poorly designed.  Instructed to remove pipe for regular cleaning.  Not enough space at either end to maneuver pipe out of its holder.  I noticed in the video that it presented a problem even to the one giving the demonstration.  They should correct the problem.  I did have the symbol light up that unit needed cleaning--shortly after I had cleaned it and filled with fresh water.  I called for assistance/clarification because the alert symbol kept flashing.  He asked me for the model number and then said to override it by holding the timer button down for a few seconds and symbol should go away.  Appears the symbol to clean is not really connected to anything detecting the need to clean.  Makes it difficult to determine if the unit is registering something that actually requires attention.


I just received the ice maker, and saw the exterior. The front was stainless steel and the sides were cream colored plastic that was peeling. My first thought was "Uh, oh... this is going back!" Then I realized that the machine's exterior was entirely made out of solid stainless steel and the plastic was just a protective coating so that it did not get scratched during production and shipping.

And that shipping was SUPER FAST, by the way!  Ordered Sunday, received Tuesday.  Amazon Prime speed, but merely listed as "free shipping".

Back to the body of the ice maker.  It was annoying to have to peel off the protective coating - and I didn't quite get all of it off, but many new appliances come that way.  Underneath the plastic, it looked like some scratches had made it on the machine, but I was able to rub them away with my index finger.

I thought the unit didn't come with instructions, but my son had "helped" me unpack the unit, and I eventually did find the instructions and warrantee card.

We are very excited to get started, but the instructions say that the machine has to sit upright for 2 hours before you start it so that the coolant can settle into place.  I have cleaned the machine and the removable water pipe and plan to fill the tank with water and vinegar.  Another reviewer said that it took five days for the vinegar taste to cycle through, but I am doing what is listed as routine maintenance, and the instructions with my machine say:

1. Take out the basket.
2. Add a mild cleaning solution mixture to the water reservoir.  Use a 10:1 ratio of water to either white vinegar or lemon juice.
3. Run the ice maker to make a couple of batches of ice (at least 2).  Discard the ice.
4. Drain the cleaning solution from the water reservoir. (page 2 shows you where the drain is)
5. Remove the water line from above the evaporator and clean and rinse it out.
6. Add fresh water to the water reservoir up to the water level mark.
7. Run the ice maker to make a few batches of ice.  Discard the ice.
8. Drain the water.
9. Add fresh water to the water reservoir to make ice, or dry the interior and exterior with a clean soft cloth to store the machine.
10. The ice scoop should be washed regularly.  Wash it just like any other utensil.

It feels like this is taking forever, but according to the clock, I have only been waiting ten minutes since I added the water and turned the machine on.  It does make a hum...  Hey!  It can do dual duty as a white noise machine, too!  ;-)

I followed the instructions for maintenance and the machine is now making ice!  It works!  What more can I say?

Oh... I can say one more thing.  I did buy the 3 year extended warrantee.  It is an expensive toy.  I would like it to last!


Humidity is an issue living near the Gulf of Mexico.  My air conditioner and dehumidifier were not getting the relative humidity (Rh) down to 30%.  Storage in pelican cases required drying out my silica gel packs about every other month to keep the humidity in case below 40%Rh. Of course, if I never opened them, the humidity and silica would not require as much maintenance. So I thought I would give a dry cabinet a try.  They all seem to be sold out of Southeast Asia (Taiwan and China).  This one was advertised as a product by TWAIPO.  AIPO is the manufacturer of the dry boxes this supplier sells.  The dry box delivered has the brandname Abmcdc.  It has the same product code so I think it is the same.
The item has two shelves made of pierced thick plastic.  Two removable linings for the shelves are provided: flat grey foam and a sculpted foam for lenses.  There is an additional piece of foam that is for the base of the cabinet.  The item comes with instructions but they are mostly useless unless you can read what I think is Chinese.  Possibly something I need to learn for the future.
The item arrived in via USPS in a sturdy cardboard box with straps. Packed well, the movement from Chaoyang District, Beijing China caused the shelves to shift.  This resulted in minor breakage of the front corners of the shelves.  Given the great distance that the item traveled and the difficulty in finding dry boxes in the US, I decided to superglue the pieces.  An AC powerpack completed the shipment.
Operation is simple and very similar to operating a digital clock.  You hold the set button down until it flashes, then you use the up or down arrows to set the target Rh%.  The up arrow serves two other purposes: on switch for the LED strip inside the case and display of the temperature in centigrade.  I cannot figure out if there is a way to change it to fahrenheit.  Again, something I will need to learn in the future with my Chinese.  It comes with a set of two keys for locking the door.  Since the front is glass, I see little security in locking it.  The door seals well with a vinyl/magnetic strip similar to a refridgerator.  Operation is silent so I placed a humidity indicator card Cobalt Free Humidity Indicator Card, 6 Dot, Pack of 3 to confirm the displayed Rh.  The indicator cards change with the Rh displayed on the panel.  When it is 90% in the room, my cameras and lenses are at 38% or lower.  I am pleased and may consider buying another.


I purchased this Made in the USA filter for my nice new expensive Samsung fridge as the filter that came with it made the decent tasting tap water taste like plastic no matter how many gallons I ran through it.  Enter this filter.  I followed instructions.  It fits where the old filter fit.  However, the seal (or lack thereof) is absolute rubbish.  Turned water back on and water gushed out all over the floor.  Got mess cleaned up with a couple rolls of paper towels and pulled filter and examined the ring.  It was loose, evidently providing for something other than a watertight seal.  I looked at the old Samsung filter- it was nice and snug, as such a ring should be... in order to create a water-tight seal.  I just want a filter that fits and doesn't make my water taste like plastic or pour water everywhere out of a fridge that was over a thousand dollars!  Is that too much to ask?  Evidently so!

I hope they honor their 90 day unconditional money back guarantee.  I will follow up.

Follow-up. 18 Oct 2012  The company that makes these wrote me back and said unfortunately it's a new product and a shipment of the filters went out before the problem was corrected.  They are sending a new filter to me today.  I added a star for their fast and responsive customer service.  After the new filter gets here and installed, I'll update the review again.  Hopefully they recall the filters from the distributors before anyone else winds up soaked. (if you'll pardon the pun).

Follow-up 30 Oct 2012  I forgot I had an additional filter on order with Amazon (as they were out of stock when I initially ordered from another seller).  I figured when it shipped, I'd have a back-up.  It arrived before the replacement and it too had a loose o-ring.  I was hesitant to install it given that fact, so wrote the company.  They were surprised to hear I got not 1, but 2 messed up filters.  At that point I was ready to give up- but true to their word, the new filter arrived, and they sent me a spare o-ring.  I haven't opened the new one yet, as I popped a snug o-ring on the filter.  The water is great, and doesn't taste like plastic.

Because of the great customer service, the refreshing non-plastic flavored water, some faith in humanity has been restored, and thus they are getting a full 5 stars.  Granted, they should have caught this before they shipped, and recalled them so no more faulty products went out, but we're only human, and they worked hard to fix the problem- and now that it's right, I want them, a US business, to stick around selling more affordable and higher quality filters!  I do not ever want to go back to a foreign plastic-tasting-water filter.


I sold this range hood on crag's list 1 week after i bought it.  Got major buyers remorse.  Why i was excited to buy it:
Pros
1) Professional looking baffle filters.
2) Low price for baffle filter hood.
3) Great ratings on Amazon
4) 8" duct included with duct tape.

Cons(red flags before buying)
1) It comes with a remote??: Why exactly?  Seems odd for a hood.  I guess so that if something catches fire, you don't have to leave the living room to turn the fan on high? maybe? I don't know...
2) Bright blue display:  For me personally, the stainless steel hood with the lights turned on is the center piece of the kitchen.  The bright blue display was for me, very distracting/annoying to look at.  Especially if you designed a rustic kitchen.
3) Noise: Originally I thought 900 cfm would be a great feature, but the low speed is louder than the high speed, on the cheepo model I replaced which was maybe 175-200 cfm max and around 100cfm low.  I like to watch TV while cooking, so the sound level on low was not acceptable.  900 cfm is unbearable.  If you are a pro with 4 burners going, maybe a good idea.
4) touch screen: When its dark I want to touch knobs or switches.  Half the time i was looking for the light button in the dark, i turned the fan to high speed.  Extremely annoying. The display tells you completely useless information-the fan speed-"F1,F2,F3,F4" as if you can't hear what speed its on.  The design is just very goofy/odd. Or is the F1,2,3,4 there to indicate the sound of an F4 hurricane?
5) No dimming button for the light: I like the light on low as a night light, but not an option here.
6) Off brand with no manufacturer phone number to call.
7) Does not come with backdraft damper.  (8" duct if you were wondering)

It seems this is marketed to people who like flashy things.  If that is you, this is a PERFECT unit for you.  I prefer to let form follow functionality, I prefer simplicity and something to accent a beautiful kitchen remodel in stead of overpowering it.  So i found a unit that looks very similar for about the same price, but i had to give up that cool looking baffle filter.  Turns out, i don't miss it.  I'm extremely happy with my high and low  light knob, 400cfm variable speed(completely AWESOME) quiet fan with variable speed knob and switch.  And no bright blue lights.

In terms of power, YES the 900 cfm is very powerful.  the baffles and stainless steel curved edge look very nice.  Just saying think about what is really important before you decide and lose a $100 like it did.


First off, I ordered this just before noon on Friday and needed it asap (we have 7 people in this household so being without a dryer is a nightmare even with a coin-op dry cleaner down the road) so I ordered next day shipping... yes, Saturday shipping. Not only did Fed-Ex have it literally in my hands by 815am, the driver wished me a great dryer day with a good smile and laugh. Not normally what I expect from any delivery service nowadays. The product was fulfilled by Amazon (I am a prime member so I try to use Amazon Fulfilment most of the time) and I was very glad I chose to have it fulfilled by Amazon. As to the switch, it worked like a charm. An easy slip into the door frame so that the button would be facing the closing door and it snapped right into place. My dryer is an old Amana Distinction with 2 wires (a grey and a white). For those of us who have spent the past two days trying to figure out where the wires go, the White Wire goes to CM (also known as Common or Ground). The Grey Wire goes to NO(also called Normally Open). The NC (normally closed) prong is smaller than the NO and is the center prong between the NO and CM prongs. With the older model dryers you sometimes find that the spade clip on the end of your grey wire will fit the NC but not the larger NO prong. Luckily, this product does come with two extra spade clips. Just use wire cutters/crimpers to cut the end of the grey wire just below the base of the spade already on it and then trim some of the grey cover off of the wire so that you see pure wire (Please Unplug the Dryer before you begin working on anything internally even if you are just taking the door off to take a look at what you might have to deal with before jumping in to work on it). After you have pure wire, twist the wire a bit with you fingers so that the threads will not separate when you now place the new spade clip onto the wire. If you look into the spade clip before putting it onto the wire you'll see a small tube, that's what you want your twisted wire to go into. After the wire is in the spade clip, use the crimper or even a good pair of plyers to apply pressure below and above the clip base so that the wire won't come back out of the clip. ***If you place the grey wire onto the NC prong, the dryer tub will only turn when the door is (get this:) Open.***This is dangerous. It is funny to see honestly but none of us need a living being or non-living material thrown into a moving high speed dryer tub while the door is open. It can easily hurt someone, so please be aware. I should know because I did it today. My father always told me when you learn a good lesson, pass it on. Good luck with your projects, readers; and be safe.


This review is for the received ERP410 from Exact Replacement Parts, 1855 Wallace Ave
St. Charles IL 60174 (url: er.parts) and not the RCO410 from Sealed Unit Parts Co. Inc., 2230 Landmark Pl, Manasquan, NJ.
ERP410
This is about  6.3" X 2.1" and the leads are about 9" so make sure you have space and a plan.
Looks and works exactly like the RCO410 that was ordered. Maybe it's out of the same factory in China? The key difference is that this ERP410  is not UL recognized, where the SUPCO device is: MINUS a Star.

This is just a high-current over-load switch + PTC thermistor + Capacitor. There is no provision for motor temperature detection. Though this does have an overload switch it is likely much larger than what the compressors designers envisaged. For those reasons don't give up your existing overload/Thermal protector.
Nerdy stuff: Usually the failure of the both factory and these are from contacts in the PTC failing, resulting in non-uniform thermal stresses which fracture the barium titanate disk. Once that happens, the motor won't start and the thermal over-load switch cycles, heating the motor and thawing the food just a bit faster than if it were unplugged.

Hint 1: You can get an idea if your compressor is cooked by checking the coil resistances (see Youtube), and the resistance to the case (ground) should be infinity. If you have an insulation-resistance tester, even better.
Hint 2: Sometimes it's possible to disassemble the broken PTC, clean and tension the contacts and reassemble with the largest piece of disk so you have some time: This can last hours or days---or not at all.
Hint 3: Since these devices cannot sense the compressor's temperature and has a trip current that's probably much greater than the design intent of your compressor, it's best to connect this devices COMMON wire to your existing overload switch, which stays on the compressor. In my case I needed to crimp a 1/4" on to the COMMON lead of the device.

Like Supco, the wire that most workers would consider the input-side NEUTRAL is black, just like LINE. Easy enough to sort with an ohmmeter, if you are the fastidious sort. NEUTRAL is the side that has continuity with RUN.
  Terminals are well crimped and they used 105 C, 600 V rated AWM wire. Though they hold to the compressor pins well, I prefer to add a couple layers of 105 C rated electrical tape over them, just in case. It comes with wire nuts for line and neutral and, since there may be some vibration, I prefer to tape over these too. There is a mounting tab suitable for a small Ty-Rap or a #4 or #5 screw but it can be easily drilled with a 9/64 bit for a #6 screw.


I bought a condo and it has a Frigidaire refrigerator, not the prettiest thing but it worked perfectly. One day I came home from work with some ice cream and when I opened the freezer it obviously wasn't cold and the ice was almost completely melted, and the fridge part was warm, too. Figures that it happened 4 days after I had went shopping and stocked up on a bunch of frozen stuff.

I looked at the tag inside and it said it was manufactured in 2003, so it was about 14 years old. I looked online and saw that a replacement motor on it was about $300 for the part alone, so I figured Id just buy a new one. But while looking all this up I came upon websites saying that its rarely the motor that goes out, but the more often its the capacitor or start switch, and its an easy, inexpensive fix. That made me look into things deeper. I read websites and watched YouTube videos and somewhere along the way found a link to this item. For less than $10 and free 2-day shipping with Prime, definitely worth a try before shelling out the cash for a new fridge.

After I got the part I pulled my fridge out, unplugged it and took a look. I don't really have any experience doing work like this, but at my old condo we had a brand new GE Profile fridge and over 10 years we had repaired at least 3 times at about $200 each repair. The mechanicals of my Frigidaire looked nothing like the videos I had seen. Most of them seemed to have the capacitor plugged into the motor with the start switch connected to it, but mind had the start switch connected further inside the fridge. Still, since I was going to get a new fridge if this didn't work I figured what did I have to lose by trying?? So I did made my best guess and unhooked the start switch then pulled out the capacitor. Sure enough, just like the internet said when I shook the capacitor, I could hear the broken pieces inside rattling around. It took me about ten minutes to hook up the wires to the Supco all in one. I took a good look at everything to make sure all the connections looked good, then I plugged her in, went around front and turned the fridge to cold, and she started purring like a kitten. A few seconds later I could feel cold air blowing in both the fridge and freezer. It worked!!

Some websites and videos said this should only be a temporary fix until you get the expensive replacement parts, but other said its fine to keep it permanently, so thats what Im doing. Three weeks in its still working perfectly. I cant believe how inexpensive and easy it was to fix my own fridge! Ive been telling friends and family about it ever since. I kind of hope that someone elses fridge will break so I can look like a hero when I fix it for them. :-) Anyway, I definitely recommend this part and also that you watch videos and read websites because that helped me in a big way, both in confidence and seeing how different brands of fridge look different inside. Save your money and fix it yourself with this!!


This Supco RCO410 start capacitor kit solved my "refrigerator not getting cold" problem and at a fraction of the cost of the original replacement unit,(under $15 from Amazon), not to mention the cost if I would have had a repairman come out to my house.  Start by removing the refrigerator electrical cord from the wall and remove the bottom cover where the compressor is located.  Assuming that the cutout relay/capacitor assembly to your compressor is bad (mine had a bad smell), remove and discard the old unit assembly after cutting the power wires to the unit.  Mine were the red and white wires but yours may be different.  In any case, these two cut wires bring the 120 VAC to the red and black wires of the start capacitor unit.  Strip the insulation back on the two cut wires and hook them up to the pre-stripped red and black wires of the start kit capacitor using the provided wire nuts.  It does not matter which of the pre-stripped red & black wires from the capacitor unit are connected to the power wires cut from the old relay, because AC does not care about polarity.  This leaves 3 wires of the start kit capacitor remaining to be hooked up to the compressor.  Make sure that you identify the compressor pins correctly.  There are 3 pins coming out of the compressor.  Two of the pins should have a resistance of around 10 ohms between each other, therefore the remaining pin is the "common".  The remaining 3 wires of the capacitor unit has spade lugs that will easily attach to the compressor pins.  The black wire spade lug of the capacitor goes to the common pin on the compressor.  The measured resistance between the common and the other 2 pins on the compressor should be approximately 6 ohms and 4 ohms respectively.  The white wire spade lug from the capacitor goes to the pin measuring 6 ohms (start winding) and the red wire spade lug goes to the pin measuring 4 ohms (run winding).  Test repair by plugging in the refrigerator to see if the compressor is running. Allow about 15 minutes or so to make sure that the refrigerator is becoming cold, then unplug refrigerator wall plug, secure capacitor assembly such as with a nylon tie strap, install refrigerator back cover, plug in the refrigerator to the wall and slide into place.  There are plenty of do-it-yourself videos on YouTube, but be careful on how the 3 pins on the compressor are wired.  I say this because mine were upside down from what most videos show.  My refrigerator has been running fine to present date (about 2 weeks) with no further problems.  At this point, I would highly recommend the RCO410 capacitor kit.  If it doesn't work for you, all you are out is a little of your time and less than $15 bucks.  Good luck!


I ordered this for a  bottom freezer refrigerator that I was having compressor start problems with. I was preparing to buy a new fridge prior to finding and researching this start kit. The compressor had finally quit starting and running even after buying and installing a new oem starter for the fridge which was more expensive than this Supco kit. I had previously tested the ohms on the compressor and it checked out fine with no grounding at all to the compressor case from the pins. There are good videos on youtube on how to test your compressor and how to install this kit. I believed that my compressor just needed a stronger capacitor to start and once started it would run just fine so I took the chance and ordered this Supco start kit . I received and wired in the Supco start kit using the package instructions and the only difference was that my oem switch had three wires, two white and one blue. I wired the two white wires to one of the Supco wires and the blue wire to the other and the fridge started right away and ran just fine, I couldn't believe it. No buzzing, no humming or any other issues. Some say these are temporary fixes suggesting that the compressors are on their way out if they won't start with the oem started and others have installed and ran these for months or years on their refrigerators. I have been watching my fridge closely after since this installation and after two full days of running flawlessly I am of the opinion that this starter with its larger capacitor is more in line with the capacitor size that these refrigerators should have installed on them when new instead of the marginal sized capacitors on the oem switches. Before this fridge I had an older fridge that ran for over 25 years with no compressor problems and I did not have to change one part on it during that whole time. I have replaced the electronic board on this existing fridge after only 6 years and after 9 years now the compressor was not starting and the new oem part wasn't starting it either. They do not make them like they used to!  Remember this is my opinion and of course I will wait and see how long this will last but the fridge hasn't missed a beat since the Supco was installed. Opinions, as you will find when you research this part vary greatly so you have to listen to all sides no matter how ridiculous some of them sound and decide. So far I have saved or extended the life of my almost 1100 dollar fridge and only time will tell. If it goes again then I will concede and buy a new fridge because compressor costs and the tools to change them are just too expensive. I will update if this fix last less than 6 months. Thanks for reading and good luck fixing your fridge.
  Update: 12/18/2014 This part is still working fine but my compressor finally bit the dust and won't run so I guess it was on it's way out when I first had the start issues. I did however, get an additional 3 months use out of the fridge using this part.


This is a piece of junk with the worst customer support on the planet.  This is also the 2nd one I had that was defective.  1st one powered up but would not register so I attempted to do a factory reset, unplugged, held in button, plugged in, no light, nothing, deader than a door knob.  So on to  my second one.  That gateway registered just fine to my 'previously created' account.  Next step, register the sensor.  No go.  Tried more times than I want to remember.  1st tried their on-line troubleshooting which was nothing more than 'factory reset'..  I LOVE this comment...

Batteries are usually the problem.  Make sure they are new and measure 1.42 volts or higher on a digital volt meter.  HA!  Fortunately I HAVE a dvm but tried several brand new batteries.

Next to perform a factory reset on the sensor.  That never worked, never able to get the 18 88 display, ever, then it just sat there with three red blinks.

Now on to their tech support.  Sent email, because their web site says it's faster than calling.  Really?  Ok, sent email, took TWO DAYS for a response from my VERY detailed description of my problem.  I have been in computer repair for over 30 years, I KNOW what to say but they ignored it all.  They reset my account (which was not a problem from what I could tell, the gateway was registered just fine).  and told me (actually pasted the web links in the email) how to reset the gateway.  I responded with a repeat of my symptoms and troubleshooting to date.  They replied another day or so later  with this

First, unplug the gateway for a good 10 minutes.  When you plug it back in, count the blink sets carefully.  If you were working, you should not have 3 blinks...  http://support.lacrossealertsmobile.com/3-blinks.html
Then you should be able to get 18.88 on the sensor by holding firmly long enough.  If it is counting though, you can likewise just take the batteries out for 10 minutes, as well.

That link is for three blinks on the gateway (which is a dns issue, which if I had that, I'd never be able to register it). I don't have three blinks on the gateway, it's on the sensor, so they didn't read my email again!  I replied with another email and have yet to get a response, but decided to give up on this unit and the project it was intended for all together and have sent it back.

Congrats to all who gets one that works, I feel sorry for you when the batteries drop below 1.42 volts and everything goes to lunch and you have to recreate everything to get it back working, if it even does!


It takes a lot for me to do a bad review, but this one deserves it. Their website support section says it all:

"Sensor registration is based on a sequence of timings that must occur correctly."

You'll need the timing of Buddy Rich to pull this one off I am afraid. I am a network engineer with almost 20 years experience with IP networks. Couldn't pull it off.

Day 1: I connected the La Crosse gateway to the internet, using an open IP address that has free access to the internet, assigned via DCHP from our router. I went through the online activation at my PC workstation -- the gateway registered correctly and showed a solid red LED light. Meaning, it was registered to the La Crosse Alerts account I had just set up and "could see" their server. However when it came time to link the sensor to the gateway (the sensor takes the actual temp/humidity readings and feeds the readings to the gateway, which passes them to the LaCrosse Alerts service --), there is an issue. I followed the instructions online (press sensor button then gateway button) and when the two should've linked, they did not. Therefore, the full activation COULD NOT occur. You can't complete the last step unless a) the gateway links to their service, and b) the sensor links to the gateway.

Day 2: Called in and they advised a factory reset of the gateway. Hold in the grey button while power cycling the gateway, waiting, etc and so on. This should put the gateway into a state to allow the sensor to link to it -- four red flashes, pause, four red flashes, etc. and so on. It does not. We get nothing but a continual blink of the red LED light. Technician says that means the gateway is not registered. He claims "something is blocking" the gateway from accessing the internet. I know this NOT to be the case. Just to humor the fellow, I connect my laptop to the same ethernet cable, assign it the same IP configuration, and viola I have internet access. Then he starts talking about a setup software tool to assign the gateway a static IP (leading me to believe their DHCP routine is buggy).

So then I get the software tool, assign the gateway various setting using both DHCP and static IP assignments. No luck. It can't connect to their service. Day one, it connected fine, though the sensor was an issue. After a factory reset the thing is just a hunk of worthless plastic. And worse there is no one there I could get on the phone that understood basic IP networking concepts.

One mention-worth quirk is that the ONLY time I could ever get the gateway unit to do the "four blinks", showing its ready to link the sensor, was by using their software tool to tell it to use a proxy server. We do not use a proxy server, and a proxy server certainly is not needed for internet access. So then what happened? The sensor still failed to link up. Go figure.

My best guess is when the initial activation failed, there is something in the account we have on their server that is preventing us from "starting over". Guess we'll never know. It's going back to Amazon. Oh well.


My Whirlpool Duet washer displayed SUD and F35 errors. Turns out this is a common problem. Most people believe this to be the fault of the Analog Pressure Sensor (APS) and most people replace it. I did so and it worked -- but now, three years later, the problem repeated.

Replacing this part is straight forward. Unplug the washer, unscrew and remove the top. Turn the old part 90 degrees counter-clockwise to pull it away from the washing machine holding notch and then gingerly remove the wiring harness from the old part. Attach the wiring harness to the new part, insert the part into the holding notch, and turn it clockwise 90 degrees -- job done. Three years ago when I did this it took longer but this time it was easy -- a ten minute fix with most of that time fiddling with the harness.

This time, after installing the new part, the error codes remained. I did some more web searching and found an answer. The real issue is a pair of  fried capacitors. Search YouTube for Jarred Johnson's "New and Improved. Fix your Whirlpool Washer with "SUDS" and F35 error" -- it explains what's happened and why and what to do.

The fix entails getting to the Control Panel Unit (CPU) and replacing two faulty capacitors, rated 2200uF/10v, with 2200uF/25v units. You may source the replacement capacitors locally from an electronics store (for under a dollar each) or order online (factor in handling & shipping).

Getting to the circuit board is a bit of a chore, at least for me. You'll have fun dislodging the CPU from the washer, removing the plethora of wiring harnesses, and opening the housing unit which houses and protects the circuit board. But with some thought and care and determination (and perhaps choice but misplaced colorful language) it can be done. When I finally got to the capacitors I could clearly see the slightly distended tops -- a sure sign of fried/blown/shot/overextended capacitors.

I had to borrow a soldering iron because I couldn't find mine (hadn't used it in years) but just could not dislodge the last bit of solder, even with a solder sucker. In the end, I took the board to a local tv repairman who replaced the capacitors for $10 -- parts and labor -- in about two minutes. (He just heated that soldered hole and slid in the new capacitor lead wire which slipped right in -- real easy once you see it done.)

With the faulty capacitors replaced, my Duet washer works good as new.

So. You can buy this expensive APS and maybe get temporary relief -- or go the extra mile and dig out that circuit board and replace the capacitors for a lot less. As I mentioned earlier, the APS solution worked for me for three years but this one may be the ultimate fix up front.


UPDATE 10/18/2016: Okay folks, it has been confirmed that Samsung now redesigned their haf-cin / DA29-00020b filters. In the photos the one you see with Double rubber ring on the neck is the newest version.

Pros:
-Whoever had a leaking issue previously probably will no more have any leakage (even tho it wasn't the filters fault, it's your loose housing or wrong placement of filter).

Cons:
-now people who had no issues before may have issues now, not the leakage but your water flow will be extremely decreased
-if you are switching from the older version filter with single rubber ring to the double rubber ring new design, you will have to shut off the water valve, otherwise little bit of air will shut your new filter and it will no more work. once air pressure goes into the filter, paper changes it forms kind of gets damaged i guess.
-you will be so pissed due to double ring and change of design will decrease your water flow, so that means to take out the first 5 6 gallon of water will take hours!!!!

Conclusion, SAMSUNG NEEDS A NEW FILTER COMPANY OR REPLACE OUR EXISTING REFRIGERATORS WITH NEW ONE FOR FREE BECAUSE YOU LIKE MESSING UP EVERY YEAR WITH YOUR FILTER DESIGN!!!!

UPDATE 10/16/2016 ( I have been purchasing this same filter from Amazon, sold and shipped by) here is the latest one i just received 20 days ago and i was going to replace today, and just surprised that something was different!!!! Now there is a double rubber o-ring on the outer head of the filter??? Does Samsung making changes or what is going on??? I spent 2 hours to get a water flowing thru this filter, no luck. Not older filter doesn't work as well. I am afraid that this latest filter damaged my water filter housing head, I am returning for the replacement and will see if the replacement comes different or not.

Latest filter september 2016 looks the one with double rubber ring on the head part.
it looks little taller than what i have been using originally all the time (i always buy from amazon, shipped and sold)
also the filter's top head neck bottom (where its the body starts) looks different as well. Samsung needs to clarify if there are any changes or not on the filter!!!

Bought it at October 31st, it did fit, worked and served perfect. No leaks or other issues. Water runs fast and filters very well. I did some water tests between water coming thru this filter and coming straight from the tap. Filters and also softens the water little bit as well. Ensure the model type of filter in your refrigerator matches with this Da29-00020b as well so you will not have leaks or any other problems. 6 months of use 2 people, having visitors oftenly and we are really water drinkers. Just the filter light turned little bit purple now. So 6 months of life for a filter is actually pretty good.


DOES NOT WORK WITH YEAR 2015
Model # DLGX4271W - GAS DRYER
FOR RIGHT SIDED VENTING

I studied all the comments on this post.

Watched the videos on putting this in.

The instructions in the package suck donkey balls.

It is tiny font, and crappy printing of the images that you can not read.

Overall the conversion if very simple, IF POSSIBLE.

The directions say to knock out the cutout first.

This is impossible because you have no idea how the knock out is built.

Instead remove the screw to the old vent in the back, and then the old vent.

Just pulls right out.

Then be very careful putting your hand inside so you don't get cut.

On my dryer on the back hole there was nothing sharp.

I shined a light and saw how the knockout was attached, different than in videos I had seen.

Initially I tried to just hit the knockout with a hammer from the outside and nothing happened.

I ended up using a screw driver from the outside, setting it against the metal attachments, that are kind of like detachable cards in magazines, where
they have been perforated. There were about 6 connection points. I jammed the screw driver against the connection point, then hit it with a hammer. I think a chisel of some sort would have been the correct tool. Wore safety glasses just to be safe.

Then I grabbed the cutout with a pair of plyers, and rotating it back and forth got it to let go of the final place it was attached.

I looked through the hole, and guess what?

THERE WAS A BIG F%#%ING GAS PIPE RUNNING RIGHT ACROSS THE SPACE!!

I had even asked LG executive services about this before hand, and they said it would not be a problem.

See, I had read that in another review.

The only way to fix this would be to have the gas line, which is a rigid line, re-run inside the dryer.

All I could think of was pimp my ride. Maybe we could put a fondue maker in at the same time.

Why in the world would you ship a dryer with a cutout for right side venting when it was not possible?

Because it is the same one they use for electric dryers, which I expect would have worked for the conversion.

I was assured by LG Executive Services at 877-543-8325 that this would work.

It did not, and the reason is that the gas line goes directly across the hole for right sided venting.

So LG get's 0 stars for wasting weeks of my time waiting.

This product gets 1 star because there should be something in the product description that this is not for our model right side venting. But really this is LG's fault.

Also pro tip - If you ordered from Home Depot and they delivered you have 48 hours to return it.

I screamed and moaned, worried something like this would happen so the Store Manager at Home Depot sent me an email saying I could return the dryer any time if the conversion did not work.

So as Bill Murray says in Caddy Shack - I've got that going for me, and that's nice.


UPDATE: I don't use this much because as I previously wrote, its a bit too manual of a process for me so I really only use when I need to do a quick, small load between regular washes. Anyway, the machine has started leaking water all over the floor when used, and I don't mean a little water. The floor around the machine has been soaked the last few times Ive used it. I thought maybe I was adding too much water so on the last try, I only washed a few items with minimal water but the floor still ended up soaked! Im just not sure at which stage its happening. I guess I need to contact the manufacturer to see if theres anything they can do since the machine is basically useless to me now. Not worth the time and mess.

This washer and dryer is pretty small and fairly easy to move around (I'm 5'7 female and can lift it without a problem) but I've thought about putting it on something with wheels just to make it easier to put away in the closet after using it bc I don't have room to keep it out and hooked up anywhere all the time. This washer and dryer does the job but by no means is automatic. It requires quite a bit of effort by the user. You have to manually fill the washer to wash the clothes, and then fill it again to rinse after you've drained it. The draining is also not quite as automatic as I would have liked. I use this in my bathroom and put it next to the bathtub so that it's easier to fill and drain. I think there is a way to hook up a hose to the sink to fill this in more of an "automatic" way but for me it's just easier/faster to use by the tub and use a pitcher to fill it with water. So it washes, you drain the water (sometimes have to mess with the hose to get it to drain but for the most part it works ok), then you fill it back up with water and run it again to rinse the clothes and then you drain it again.

The dryer is a spin dryer, there is no heat involved and it is much smaller than the washer so you can't "dry" the entire load of clothes at one time. It also works better if you wring out the clothes before putting them in as the washer side doesn't really spin the clothes so they're still pretty wet. The spin dryer works best with only a few things at a time and it doesn't fully dry the clothes, it spins the water out. I hang my clothes on a drying rack after they've gone through the spin dryer. I don't really mind this because I air dry a lot of my clothes anyway. The only thing this isn't great for is denim because it dries very stiff!

Overall this works. It's nice to have in a small place where you don't or can't have a full washer and dryer. I definitely wouldn't recommend it for all of your laundry (big blankets, large loads, etc.). I use it to supplement between when I can take my laundry to a full size washer and dryer. It is definitely more ideal for smaller loads although the washer does hold more than I actually expected it to. It does get the job done but it's definitely somewhat of a manual process.


I can't stress enough how great this washer is but there is a reason why it gets a 4 star and not 5!
Here is the breakdown.

PROS:
1. Super compact- we got the small 7.9 lb loader.  You think it's small but it ain't that small! I'm a size small-medium.  My husband is a small but his clothes are generally bigger and thicker.  Here's a quick breakdown of what can go in in one load.
1 of my blue jeans, 3 t-shirts (size small) and 2 men's t-shirt, 2 boxers and 2 of my toddler (2T).

Another load- 4 of my toddler long pants, 4 of my toddler t-shirts, my one set pajamas and one size medium leggings

One king size sheets and 2 pillow case, 2 large towels (not beach towels)

See? It ain't so small but the machine is small and portable!
 See picture for size

2.  It's lightweight.  I can carry this washer from one room to another.  This machine is about 28 pounds

3.  IT AGITATES CLOTHES SO WELL!
Ok, so I washed my blue jeans that I had for a little over a year.  This pair of jeans have been washed many times throughout the entire year and when I washed it in the PANDA, the jeans bled like a new pair of jeans.  For an old pair of jeans to bleed bright blue makes you wonder how well our apt's full washer washes.  So here's a photo of the blue water draining into the tub after agitating old pair of jeans.  Will post a video of agitating process if it allows a video

4.  The spinner doesn't completely dry your clothes but it does a pretty good job making it damp- to almost dry! My husband and i were amazed!

CONS:
1.  Spinner is very small.  With one load in the washer, you would have to do 2 separate spins.  It's not too bad bc spinning only takes 2 mins each but it's another step you have to take

2.  FILTER SYSTEM.  (Lost one star) They say they have one but IT DOES NOT FUNCTION.  (See picture).  I saw a reveiw done by one of the reviewers and she put her sheer pantyhose stocking on the end of the draining tube and THAT WORKS.  It's sheer enough to drain the water but also catches all the lints.

3.  Wish there was a use of detergent guideline bc you don't need a lot! Our first mistake was putting less than .5 of 1 (smallest load on the detergent cup) and it was still a lot of soap.  We had to rinse our clothes 3 more times.  It's a learning experience, I guess.

Overall, amazing washer and spinner! I highly encourage this washer!


Disclaimer: At the time we had the money to buy ours, we bought it elsewhere as Amazon had it listed as "We don't know when or if this will become available again."  But we LOVE our Panda!!  It's 2 of us, and I do about 4 loads a week in it. His jeans are heavier than mine, so I don't do more than 2 pair at a time, and only spin 1 pair at a time.  I'm a plus-size lady (3-4XL), and a typical load of shirts (tshirts, turtlenecks) ends up being about 7 to wash, and then I spin in 2 batches.  I have washed a king-size flannel sheet set - one at a time and wringing the water out as much as possible before putting it in the spinner.  It took it like a champ but I would ONLY do that in an emergency, NOT on a regular basis.  We've had it for not quite a year and it paid for itself after just 18 weeks of going to the laundromat.  We bought a clothes rack Household Essentials Collapsible Indoor Tripod Clothes Dryer (also elsewhere, sad to say) and that stands in the corner and right now happens to be over our floor furnace vent so clothes dry quickly! On muggy Ohio days, I'd give them overnight as a general rule, and sometimes longer.  For lint (which was a big annoyance), we got a set of these Kittymouse Floating Washing Machine Filter Bags(pink or Blue or Green) and they've been a huge help!  Very little lint on the clothes now!  We did get a slightly larger hose clamp as the one it came with didn't quite fit over our bathroom faucet (understandable as it's marketed more for RVs which typically have smaller faucets) and we have it drain into the toilet.  It does require a but more active use vs an automatic washing macine - you have to drain it, fill it, etc...but I love that I can come home from a workout, throw my sweaty clothes in it and it will wash them while I shower and I don't have to worry about it starting to refill!  I estimate I use a total of 8 gallons of water per wash/rinse - I'm guessing it's a 5-gallon capacity and I never fill it full to the brim.  It takes up very little space in our bathroom, too.  This little unit has been a blessing, especially once we lost our car - I am so grateful we don't have to haul laundry to the laundromat on a bus!!


I bought this specifically for use in our travel trailer as I adore camping but hate having to haul clothes and towels back and forth to our trailer. It arrived in a timely fashion, but I ordered too late in the camping season and wasn't able to use until a few weeks ago. Set up and use was super easy (I watched a few videos on YouTube to make sure I got it right), but found it much easier to use in trailer's bathroom instead of kitchen. Able to let the drain hose go into the shower and hook up to bathroom sink. I put in quite a few clothes and hand towels into the first load and was amazed how much could fit into the washer side. The only drawback is it does take a while to fill up, but minor issue compared to either going to laundry room at campground or having to haul your trailer towels and such home and back to trailer.
I have seen a lot of complaints about the spin dryer side. People either complaining it "doesn't dry the clothes completely" or "the spin dryer compartment is a lot smaller than the washer side". First, it's a SPIN DRYER, not a dryer, so expecting the clothes to be completely dry is ridiculous, and second, if the spin dryer side was bigger, the whole unit would be massive and wouldn't be considered portable. I thought the spin dryer dried the clothes enough that they felt slightly damp and hanging them overnight was more than enough to get clothes completely dry. It was so nice to have clean socks and undies halfway through our trip!
I was amazed at how quiet the machine was on both sides. When using the washer side, closing our bathroom door and sitting in our living room inside the trailer, you could barely hear anything was happening. When using the spin dryer side, it makes a bit of noise in the beginning because it's levelling out, but afterwards, very quiet.
The only issue I have with the whole unit is the lint trap piece. The first time I used it, when the washer was going, there was this constant knocking when going through the cycle. I was confused as I only had a few shirts, socks and hand towels in and couldn't figure out what was making the noise until it finished and I opened it and the lint trap piece was floating around. I put it back and put in my second load and same thing happened. So when I did my third load, I just removed the piece as it was useless and kept falling out. I plan to but a lint trap for it in the future.
The unit is easy enough to move around and carry to another spot. I am quite short and find it easy to move out of cupboard and into our bathroom and back by myself.
Overall, the whole unit is amazing and gets clothes just as clean as your home washer and dryer. It's a bit of work but I have found it extremely useful and so happy I found it to use for our camping trips. The lint trap piece is only a minor drawback and not enough for me to take a star away from the rating. Ensure you use fabric softener as I found that sometimes the water in campgrounds can make your clothes quite harsh. If you are looking for a washer for your trailer/RV, I highly recommend this unit. I am currently waiting for the arrival for the Panda Portable Dryer to be delivered so that I am completely set up for doing laundry in our trailer.


Ok, so you just found this item online and you're like, "HRMMMMM, is this thing really worth the price?  It looks kinda cheaply made...."  Well I will say that is it not made with cutting edge technology but, I would say so for me, it has been WELL worth the price.  I really have to say the this thing was pretty amazing.  I got this and the panda mini dryer and WOW these things work great!  I did two months worth of laundry in about 4 hours.  I rarely have to use more than about a gallon and a half of water and a teaspoon size amount of detergent for most load sizes.  I typically do two loads with one fill up, though on the second load you will want to add a little more water and about a quarter of a teaspoon of detergent.  I have only done cloths and the linen from my bed thus far and will be trying my comforter this weekend.  My only issue with this the faucet hook up hose is really, REALLY cheap, but you can always just buy a better type one, which I did or just use a water jug to fill it up.  I bought a new hose attachment for my purposes.  I have both units setup on a platform about a foot off the ground to allow for proper drainage of the washer.  The drain hose drains directly into the bathtub, no fuss.  You could also just have it drain into a plastic container depending on your setup.

Now as far as using it, well the instruction manual is, well, crap....  So here is quick run down on how to use.
The instruction has different times for load sizes and types but I prefer to wash my all my stuff for the full 15 mins.  Also beware of your delicate because the cloths they, sometimes will get a little twisted up during the wash.

Put enough cloths in to fill the washer side up to where the lint trap is on the inside.  !!!!!DON'T GO ABOVE IT!!!!! the water will splash out.
Next add enough water so the cloth are right at or below water level, you can add you teaspoon of detergent now as well.
Close the lid and begin the wash cycle.
Once the wash cycle is complete, open both sides and start loading the spin dryer.  Keep in mind not to fill it up all the way, each wash load will take two to three uses of the spinner to complete the full load.
When you have filled the spinner put spinner guard in and close  the lid.
Now move the water hose to the spinner side (top right when facing machine).  You can also us a funnel and a water jug.
(Again my preference here)  Set the spin timer to 5 mins and turn on. Let the water run and watch it drain.  When the water start coming out clear you know all the soap is gone (usually only takes about a minute or less) and you can turn the water off and let the spinner complete it's cycle.
When the spinner stop take out the cloths and give them a good shake as they will most like be all compacted together form the spin cycle.
Now they are ready for the cloths line or your new panda micro tumble dryer.

Now was that so hard Mr. or Mrs. Instruction manual Author.....


A few months back, I moved all the way across the country in order to attend medical school.  Being a student, I don't have endless quarters to spend in a laundromat every week.  Nor do I have enough clean underwear to last me an entire month.  I recently found out about these convenient little machines and after some quick calculations, decided it was worth it in the long run.  Plus it would save me the trouble of lugging my laundry to the nearby laundromat and potentially exposing innocent bystanders to my dirty unmentionables.

After the grand opening and obligatory product registration, I set out to do a test run.  At first, it seemed wonderful!  But then I noticed a growing dirty puddle on my nice clean floors.  Okay, maybe I did something wrong.  Read over the instructions again, tried a second run.  Again, the damn thing peed all over my floor.

Well, no problem, I thought.  That's what the warranty is for, right?

WRONG.

The following day, I called the 888 number provided in the manual.  The girl I spoke to sounded so confused, I thought I had the wrong number at first.  After explaining a few times, she said she'll have to talk "to someone" and get back to me.  I asked when can I expect a call.  "Within half an hour," she replied.  An hour goes by and of course there is no call.  I tried calling back and apparently their office is closed.  There wasn't even an answering machine, it just rung a few times and automatically hung up.

I was mildly irritated, but figured maybe they'll call me back the next day.  Waiting nearly the entire day and no call.  So I call them again.  Same girl answers and again I have to explain the situation to her.  Do you know what she said?

"We can't help you."

Excuse me?  Is this your product?  Is this your email that confirmed my product registration?  Does it not say "12 MONTHS WARRANTY GUARANTEED QUALITY" on your manual? And you can't help me?  I was completely bewildered.  "Why?" I asked.

"You don't have an order number."

Well of course I don't, I didn't buy it directly from them!  I tried asking if there was anything they can do.

"No, you don't have an order number."

I was getting pretty irritated at this point and asked to speak to a manager.

"Sorry, we can't help you."

And then she HUNG UP ON ME.  Now, I'm a pretty laid back person.  I usually allow the benefit of the doubt.  So I called back.  Of course the same girl answered. And she had the nerve to pretend she didn't know who I was, like I don't recognize her voice.  I informed her that I wasn't happy with their customer service and asked again to speak to a manager.

"Sorry, we can't help you. Bye bye."  Click.

So apparently this company doesn't honor their warranty at all and now I've thrown away close to $200 for a broken washing machine.  And I still have to save up quarters for the laundromat.


I have a LG WM3001HWA Washer that gave an error something like "oe error (drain error)"  The clothes were left in a big puddle that would not drain.  I used the drain plug at the bottom left side of the machine and drained the water off.  There are some good videos on youtube that will show you step by step how to get to this pump and replace it.  I did see a suggestion to access the pump from the bottom, but mine has a plastic cover with a bunch of screws and due to the placement of my washing machine, it was going to be more of a hassle to get it out and lay it on its side.  The hardest part was getting the big loop spring back on that holds the rubber tub in place (the rubber part that helps the door seal when it is closed).  This tool is supposed to make it a lot easier: LG Electronics 383EER4001A Washing Machine Outer Tub Spring Removal Tool
I did not have that tool, but it can be done without it.. just takes a while and a little frustration.  You can use screwdrivers, a butter knife, etc.  I used a screwdriver on one side of the loop to hold it and a spring puller that I had from assembling a trampoline to help guide the loop into place and finally stretch the spring until it was back in place.  The rest of the process is pretty simple, just follow an online video.  I would say it takes a good hour to replace it and put it back together... maybe a little longer.  One suggestion I have is to take a piece of paper and tape down any screws you remove and write where they go so that you know where to put them when you put it back together.  Also, I would recommend taking a picture of the pump assembly before you take it out and also note where the colored wires go so that you plug them back onto the correct terminals.  There are 2 pumps in the pump assembly and they are different.  This is the one that typically fails though.  There was a white plastic shroud that goes around the original pump that this pump did not come with.  I removed the one from the old one and put it on the new pump.  I believe I also had to cut some plastic off of the shroud to make it fit.

My bad pump had a bunch of water in it and it didn't smell the greatest either.  I opened it up, cleaned a bunch of gunk out and reassembled it but it still did not work.  One of the seals must have been bad, but they looked ok.  So, I would recommend saving yourself the hassle and just replace the pump since it is reasonably priced.

The reason I am giving this 4 stars is it did fix my problem, however it only lasted about 8 months.  I recently purchased another one and I am back up and running again (hopefully this one will last longer).


Replacing this sensor fixed my LG front load washer.  I tried to wash a heavy load and got the dreaded LE error.  This has happened before, and before it only took removing the drenched clothing, draining the tub, waiting awhile, and it started working again.  Not so lucky this time.  The LE error went away, but the tub would only turn in one direction a couple of inches before stopping suddenly.  It didn't even attempt to turn the other direction.  Then, you could hear the motor begin to whine.

The fix was simple; there are instructional videos online.  You'll need a ratcheting wrench, metric sockets, and a philips head screwdriver.

Instructions:
- *Unplug the washer*.
- Open up the back panel, crack the center bolt and remove it by putting the wrench on it, spin the rotor to the right, and then smack the wrench to the left with your hand.
- Wiggle the rotor to get it off.  (It's held on by big magnets so it takes a little effort)
- Remove the two power connectors from the coil.  You may need to unscrew a bracket holding one of the connector cords. (Instructions say remove the ground, but didn't seem necessary)
- Remove the 6-8 bolts holding the coil on, and remove the coil.
- Unsnap the sensor to remove, and snap the new one back on.
- Put the coil back on and screw in the bolts.
- Plug in the connectors.
- Put the rotor back on, put some thread lock on the center bolt, and screw it back in.
- Once tight, and with the wrench still on the bolt, spin the rotor to the left and hit the wrench to the right to ensure it's completely tight.
- Put the back panel back on.
- Plug in.
- Voila.

If I had the new sensor when I took this apart, then the job may have taken about 1/2 to 1 hour total.  Someone said something about marking the rotor's position before taking it off.  I'm not sure what you're marking, or what issue this could cause, but I didn't do it and the rotor went right back on.  Maybe I got lucky...?

There's no real reason to call a fix it person.  I heard it costs $80 just to get the fix-it guy to come take a look, much less fix the thing.  This part cost me $16.50 shipped and about 1/2 to 1 hour of easy labor.  It took exactly 7 days to ship to Michigan from this seller.  The only issue I had was that the tracking number never worked and I wasn't sure exactly when I'd get the part, but was pleasantly surprised that it only took a week.  If I could have found one at a local shop, I'd have gone that route.  One week without a washer when you're already out of laundry sucks!


Best dryer ever! If this little gem runs for the next year or two as well as it has the last couple of days I'll be thrilled. I'm amazed by a couple of things - primarily how much it holds and how fast it dries heavy items like towels, sweatshirts and jeans. It's not tiny outside, about half the size of a standard dryer. And it is quiet! I have a 200 square foot apartment, so it's more like a big bedroom. There's no other room to put it in. It's literally at the head of my bed and I slept through it operating. It's about the same noise level as a box fan, or quieter really.

I've dried several loads of heavy stuff and it dries as fast as my last standard sized home dryer. The only thing I'm NOT crazy about is how hard or annoying it is to get to the filter. You MUST clean it after every load, although I've run a couple of loads without cleaning it and have not had an issue.

The only other "con" is that it is so low to the floor you have to almost get on your hands and knees to reach the dials to turn it on. I'm an old fart, bad knees and fat...so it hurts my back to bend over to do that. Once I have it up on a table I think it will be fine. It's light enough that I can pick it up to put it on a table, so that's good. Now to find a table! Or build one.

The exhaust is simply warm air. I haven't vented it or felt a need to so far. There was a "burn off" smell for about 20 minutes the first time I ran it - kind of like when you turn your home heater on after not running it all summer. It's clean, doesn't heat up the room that much when running, although it may be different in the summer.

Other reviewers said this took 2-3 hours to dry items. Half full of towels and jeans and t-shirts I found it dried items in about 45 minutes to an hour...and that's DRY, not damp. I'm loving not having to lug laundry all the way to a laundromat 30 minutes away. Be sure and get the LARGER dryer. It's like $20 or $30 more, but I think you'll be glad you opted for the bigger unit. I can dry a full-sized quilt in it....although I'm not yet sure my washer will handle a full sized quilt! If you're single, or a couple or even have a small child I think this unit can handle GENTLE use....It's not built like a heavy duty $900 unity. But treat it gently and I think you'll be pleased. I sure am! The photo is of how much lint I pulled off of the filter after three loads. You REALLY DO want to clean it after EACH load. THIS is why you don't wait!


Frankly, because it cost half the price of the second choice GE model, I placed my order with reservations that it may not be an effective appliance, and was prepared to return it if the trial didn't work out. Instead, I feel fantastic about choosing the economical Sonya over better-known brands.  After researching many brands of apartment-sized dryers at all price points, the higher-capacity Sonya portable became my first choice. It was highly reviewed on several other websites, including those that specialize in small-space living.

My husband and I completed a traditional outdoor vented installation yesterday. This dryer, plus a vintage Lady Kenmore portable replaced the landlord's Whirlpool Duet high-capacity stacking system. Although the stackers were very nice, their bulk made our tiny laundry area ineffective. The Sonya dryer is at least 8 inches smaller in all dimensions than the previous dryer, yet it holds an impressive load of laundry. In arid, high-altitude Montana, it completely dried each load - 6 so far, including one with 4 pairs of 40"x36" cargo pants and several T-shirts - in about 90 minutes. Another plus is the included hardware for a hanging installation; this feature saved $100 over other models that require separate purchase of a stacking rack. The Sonya far exceeded our expectations. I would recommend it highly to anyone needing to squeeze every inch of performance from a closet-sized laundry area.

July 9, 2013 Following up on my original review after a month of use: My husband and I are both impressed with the Sonya high-capacity dryer. Other reviewers commented that this machine doesn't seem to get hot, or that it takes a long time to dry. My experience has been quite different. As long it is not overloaded with heavy wet clothing, a load of mixed garments will be completely dry in 90 minutes or less - and be toasty warm when removed from the dryer!

Tips on effective use:
- The installation directions for hanging the dryer do not mention installing two (included) 4" metal and rubber feet to the back-bottom of the dryer. There are pre-drilled holes in the chassis. YOU MUST INSTALL THESE TO KEEP THE DRYER FROM FALLING OFF THE HOOKS!
- Install with flexible aluminum vent pipe, not the cheaper accordion plastic type. Connect the 3" vent into a 4" dryer vent in the floor or wall; a 4" to 3" adaptor, available at most hardware stores, makes the transition smoothly.
- Keep the dryer lint traps clean. If the exit air vent is blocked with a blanket of lint, the steamy air remains in the dryer.
- RUN THE SPIN CYCLE TWICE for loads of extra heavy clothing to extract as much water as possible before drying.
- Process larger (Queen or King) bedding in 2 loads: one for the bottom sheet, a pillow case and a few T-shirts, and another similarly loaded for the top sheet.

- Enjoy!


After paying 3X for the same part at the local appliance repair shop, I decided to keep a spare. This appears to be my MAYTAG dishwasher's achilles heel, burning out 3.5 years after initial purchase (fuse blew, no burned wires, replacement has been working for about 3 months).

- update 8/17/2014 -
Well, the replacement from the local appliance store popped ... after 6 MONTHS - no signs of heat stress, burned wiring, etc. May the fleas of a thousand camels plague the designer of this part.  Lets see how long the Amazon part lasts.

- update 9/21/2014 -
Fuse blew again. Diagnostics checked out. Clamp meter indicates peak current draw 9A. Dishwasher research indicates 'all dishwashers' are plagued with reliability issues... Since digital control replaced mechanical timer dishwashers. The moral of the story is to buy the cheapest/simplest dishwasher and expect to replace it after 3 years.

- update 10/19/2014 -
Heed the warning. replace the connector as per the instructions, even if there's no sign of burned wires.  So far so good.  Measured current draw for a couple of cycles and Maytag doesn't draw more than about 9A.  Not sure if I'm super sensitized or what... the motor sounds like it's surging on the wash (pump) cycle.  If this fuse goes another couple of months, I'll probably pull out the clamp meter again.

- update 2/3/2015 -
Still working since 9/21/2014. ** The moral of the story is to cut off the old connector and splice in the new one that comes with the fuse.

- update 4/18/2015 -
Fuse blew after 7 months; Getting careless and ran the Heavy Duty Cycle+Steam+Heat Water. Spare installed in 30m; I'm perfecting the process; New spare on order.  Gee Maytag, maybe a utility access door cut into the dishwasher door panel woulda been a nifty feature.  This is obviously a design flaw. I'm never going to buy a Frigidaire/Maytag appliance again.

- update 11/11/2015 -
Still working since 4/18/2015 (7 months).  I've used the Steam/Extra Hot Water/Extra heat cycles sparingly, maybe once or twice a month at most. Also, although I can't seem to train the wife, I started running the kitchen faucet until I get hot water before starting the dishwasher (My Maytag dishwasher will always bring the water to temperature).

- update 2/5/2017 -
Still working since 4/18/2015, almost 2 yrs ago. The dishwasher is about 6 years old now.  If it goes another 4 years, my faith will be restored in Maytag.  Here's hoping they worked out the Thermister/fuse for current models. G'luck.

- update 3/24/2018 -
Still working after ~3 yrs. Please check recent reviews for current part reliability.


Believe the reviews!!!  We did not and we are paying the price.  I would not buy any GE product again after this purchase.  It may look okay but the quality is ridiculously subpar.  The service from customer relations is even worse.  We have had this refrigerator for all most 11 months now, and we have had 3 service calls for a number of reasons.  First of all, the refrigerator is loud.  I didn't believe most of the reviews on this and thought how loud can it be.  Well it does sound like 100hp compressor is operating in this refrigerator.  The first issue we had was with the refrigerator icing up and causing an even louder fan noise.  The second issue was with the refrigerator and freezer not keeping temperature.  Everything was warm one day and we lost most of the food.  This supposedly got fixed.  The next issue was with this unit keep things too cold and freezing everything in the refrigerator.  The temperature on the frig read out stated 37F but the thermometer we put in there after the last incident said that is was 29F.  I had had enough.  I asked GE to replace this refrigerator.  They then told me that they no longer make the model we had, but they could replace it with a new model that is smaller.  I told them that we could not afford to lose space in the refrigerator and we would need the same model.  They searched a little harder and found one of our models.  They shipped this to us which took about a week.  When the refrigerator arrived at 9:15pm they brought it into the house and set in the kitchen.  We then saw that the whole rear corner of the refrigerator was smashed in by a clamp truck.  This was no cosmetic damage.  It might as well been pushed off the back of the truck with damage like that.  Now they had to return this one and...this was the last straw.  I told GE that I wanted my money back.  After many phone calls and waiting for approvals on this, keep in mind we have a refrigerator that does not keep temperature, we final got GE to agree to buy back our refrigerator.  However, GE would not reimburse us for the full price we paid for the refrigerator.  At first they told me that we would be reimbursed for the MSRP price.  They said the check would be sent to the delivery company and they would deliver the check when they picked up our defective refrigerator.  A few days later I received a message from GE stating that I need to submit receipts for this refrigerator or they will not reimburse us.  I completely understood this and wondered why it wasn't done this way from the beginning.  So I submitted my receipts for the frig which included an extended warranty.  GE then told me that they would only reimburse me for what the refrigerator cost.  They would not reimburse for any taxes, state fees, or warranties.  I had already checked with the warranty company and they told me the warranty was nontransferable so the warranty was useless if I returned the refrigerator.  We are still arguing over this issue I plan to take this as high as it has to go until GE decides to stand by their product and reimburse us for the money that we laid out for this lemon of a product.


I feel like this machine has gotten a bad rap here.  I have be using this over a week, and I am amazed at the reviews.

I'll cover the big gripes folks have first....

1.  Does not store ice.
Sure it does....just not permanently.  This was one of my biggest worries when I got the machine, but the worry was totally unfounded.  I bought this to be an ice maker replacement for my kitchen and it works great for this purpose.  It will recycle anything that melts.  What I do is simple, fill the machine with filtered water n the morning and turn it on.  Once it seems filled, I turn it off.  The ice will last atleast five hours in it.  By dinner, I turn it on again till it fills up.  The key is knowing about how much ice you consume daily and only adding that amount of water each day.  Once you do that, it works like a dream.  Also, keep in mind this is the case far all portable ice makers.  They would no longer be portable if you expect them to ac as a full freezer as well.

2.  Slow ice production.
Even though it says right up front, your first Bach could take an hour.  I had ice in 30 mns....and after that, it fills fast.  I never run out of ice with 4 people using it.  I have a hunch that if you try to use this in non climate controlled locations like a boat, you might have issues due to the ambient temp.  The solution is pretty simple though, just bring along a cold ice pack or ice from home to pre cool it.  You'll have ic in no time.

3.  Noise.
It's ambient noise level is that of a running microwave.  Don't pit it near your tv.  Works fine in the kichen.  If you have to put it in your man cave, turn it off during your movie, the ice will easily last.

4.  Quality.
So far, so good.  It's a fairly simple machine with little that will go wrong.  I've compared all the clear ice brands on amazon.  They are all exactly the same, all from china.  This is the cheapest.  Buy on amazon to address infant mortality.

This thing is awesome so far...as long as it holds up I highly recommend it.

My only gripes and they are minor...

1.  The machine takes too long to shut off when it runs low on water.  This results in cloudy, deformed cubes.  Why not just have it shut off when you know the cleanses goes away?  Silly design mistake.

2.  Ice does release in a brick.  I quick light chop with the scoops breaks it up nicely though.

3.  Even though it was shrink wrapped like most ss appliances these days...it still arrive with visible scuffs.  Nothing real bad, but enough to be annoying.  Doubtful any other brand would be better.


I dislike writing negative reviews, but this one I feel is necessary to help protect other consumers!

Do not buy the Frigidaire French Door refrigerator model FGHB2866PF (LGHB2867PF is the equivalent model number at Lowes)

Electrolux is the parent company of Frigidaire.  My complaint is with the Frigidaire French Door refrigerator model FGHB2866PF.  The unit has a design flaw with the ice maker.  I've owned the refrigerator for about 9 months and the ice maker has broken 3 times and had 2 repair attempts.  The fan in the ice maker is not properly insulated from the rest of the refrigerator so moisture condenses on the fan in the icemaker which then freezes preventing it from working properly.  I'm trying to work with Frigidaire to have the unit replaced.  They want to attempt to fix it again.  The refrigerator comes with a 1 year warranty.  The best I've been able to do is get Frigidaire to extend the warranty 3 months.  My concern is that they will continually attempt to repair the unit until it goes out of warranty and then I have a broken refrigerator.  A further dilemma is that they offer an extended warranty for a few hundred dollars.  I feel cheated by this because from my perspective, they have a bad product with a design flaw that shouldn't require purchase of a warranty.  They are asking me to purchase a warranty on a bad product so that they can continue to fail at fixing it.  So if you purchase this unit expect the real operating cost to be $300 higher because of the extended warranty which only lasts 3 years.  In contrast, my Kenmore has lasted through 3 moves and is 11 years old with no problems.

I want to stress the severity of this.  This is not an issue with my unit.  This is an issue with the model.  See the link to the Frigidaire site below where others have had the same problem.  Just look for the 1 star review.  Ive also added links to other sites where other people have had a similar experience.  Furthermore, when the repairman was out here last, his next stop was another customer with the same problem on the same model.

Frigidaire needs to fix this problem or they may find themselves in a class action lawsuit.

If you have had the same experience, I encourage you to get the word out to warn others!

http://www.frigidaire.com/Kitchen-Appliances/Refrigerators/French-Door-Refrigerator/FGHB2866PF/

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http://www.amazon.com/REFRIGERATOR-28-CF-FRENCH-SS-W/product-reviews/B00C9YTN08/ref=cm_cr_dp_qt_hist_one?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&showViewpoints=0


I purchased this machine last week because I am tired of dirty laundromats and I still remember the spinner machines some laundromats had in the old days.  For 50 cents, washed clothes could be spun and then dried in a dryer for half the cost without the spin.  Essentially, this machine offers the same convenience.

Appearance -- This spinner arrived today and it is EXACTLY as pictured.  As many others have commented -- this unit is a whole lot bigger than the pictures would lead you to believe/  I appreciate the larger size of this item as it will handle more clothes in fewer loads on laundry day.  The packaging is flimsy for such a large item so when you unpack it, check closely for any cracking or damage from shipping.  I lucked out and this unit arrived undamaged.

First Use - Mandatory:  remove the metal bar off of the bottom and cut and remove the heavy duty zip ties that hold the bar in place.  This allows the motor to spin the basket during use.  For my first load, I spun sopping wet underwear, t-shirts, washcloths, and one pillowcase.  After just a few minutes, they were all drier than after a washing machine spin cycle.  This unit cannot completely dry the clothes because there is no heat source.  this unit starts automatically when you close the lid and it runs so quietly I had to touch it to see if it was running!!  It wobbled for a few seconds until it forced out enough water that it could self level.  After that, it ran with almost no vibration and stayed put.

Placement - For convenience, I put it on a counter so it could drain directly into the sink because I didn't want to deal with emptying buckets.  Plus, the drain is always open on this unit so when a bucket is removed to empty, water will continue to drip.  The drain is direct and always open so stray water drops are always possible.  This beneficially means there is less chance of water sitting in the unit and going moldy or stinky.  I plan to always leave the lid open to air dry between loads because I am super sensitive to mold and mildew.

Now, here's the downside of using a vanity sink (as several other reviewers have pointed out) -- the unit will be very high above the floor.  My counter is 36 inches tall which means the top of the spinner is 5 FEET above the floor and that does not include the additional length needed to reach inside the unit.  Even at 5 feet 7 inches with average arm length, I struggle to reach the clothes so lowering the unit and and using a two bucket relay may be in my future.

I anticipate that this spinner will save a minimum of $50 a month normally spent at the laundromat.  If line drying is not appealing, a short dry cycle at the laundromat will finish everything nicely.  Just like laundry day but for only $1.  This spinner is a win - win for me!