Don't...
buy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use.  This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models.  I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops.

Here are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's "Use and Care" manual:

500-series:
[...]
(page 14)

800-series:
[...]
(page 16)

Flexinduction:
[...]
(page 15)

I called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call.  I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off.  I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to "just turn off" on its own.  On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and "get back to me with an answer".

Well, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer.  The support people don't know, and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer).  How strange is that?  But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to "an unknown at Bosch".  The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals:
"Automatic time limitation:
If the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. "F8" and the residual heat indicator "H/h" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours)."

The email also briefly revealed that "a customer" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations.  Whatsoever!  I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for "safety reasons" but no other details were offered.  Safety reasons?  Really?  Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state?  Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off  "for safety reasons"  Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others.

I hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off?  Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off.

Bottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between "1 and 10 hours".  Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours.

Bosch engineers take notice!


Don't...
buy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use.  This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models.  I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops.

Here are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's "Use and Care" manual:

500-series:
[...]
(page 14)

800-series:
[...]

Flexinduction:
[...]

I called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call.  I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off.  I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to "just turn off" on its own.  On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and "get back to me with an answer".

Well, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer.  The support people don't know and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer).  How strange is that?  But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to "an unknown at Bosch".  The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals:
"Automatic time limitation
If the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. "F8" and the residual heat indicator "H/h" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours)."

The email also briefly revealed that "a customer" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations.  Whatsoever!  I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for "safety reasons" but no other details were offered.  Safety reasons?  Really?  Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state?  Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off  "for safety reasons"  Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others.

I hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off?  Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off.

Bottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between "1 and 10 hours".  Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours.

Bosch engineers take notice!


We bought the Samsung RH299000SR side by side refrigerator on 6/26/14, during the 4th of July sales. It was delivered, at our request, on July 7th. The refrigerator design is elegant, sleek and modern. The handles are flush with the doors which gives it an interesting cleaner look.  The refrigerator door has the Showcase feature which is like a double door allowing access to items in the door by opening the Showcase door cover, without having to open  the door to the main compartment.

PROS: the space in the showcase door is very roomy and flexible. It has 3 shelves with dividers, 2 open drawers with dividers (you can roll them out when the Showcase is open) and a shallow bottom shelf.  All dividers can be moved out of the way to allow full use of the space.
The Ice maker is really efficient and the ice bucket has a great capacity.  The bucket is easy to remove from the door for maintenance or just to empty and save the ice into another container.
The electronic controls for the basic functions are easy to use.
The interior led illumination is bright and very effective.

CONS:
We don't know how the ice dispenser works because ours was defective. The flap to allow the ice to exit worked but the motor to turn the ice didnt.
The one sided handles are very awkward and counter intuitive. You have to use your left hand or twist your right wrist to open the refrigerator door on the right. It is not obvious which part of the refrigerator handle to pull to open the main door of the refrigerator or just the Showcase door.  It will take time, practice and frustration for it to become second nature.
The compartments of the showcase door do not keep temperatures consistent with the interior of the refrigerator. The temperature at the bottom shelf was more than 50 degrees and slightly progressively cooler on the others depending on their position.
The refrigerator door with the Showcase feature is very heavy to operate even when empty. If you don't guide it gently when closing it, it slams.
There are only 2 drawers in the refrigerator and one of them is not full size.
The freezer has four shelves and only 2 drawers, a third one would be more convenient.
The actual consumption of the water filter is not displayed, only when it is exhausted an indicator will turn on. My 12 years old Kenmore showed the percent left on the water filter life.

Conclusion:
Based on the awkwardness and temperature control problem of the Showcase door of the side by side, the ice dispenser malfunction and the other issues we decided to return it to the seller.  We replaced it with Samsungs 4 door RF30HBEDBSR model on July 30th.  It has 2 french doors with Showcase in one of them, a Cool zone drawer and a spacious freezer drawer. I have been monitoring the temperature in the different compartments of the refrigerator, the doors, the Cool zone drawer and the freezer and everything is fine. The Ice maker and dispenser work well. We will have a more comprehensive review of this model when we have more time to evaluate it, but, as of now, we believe it was the right decision.


I can't seem to get a simple answer to a simple question about this Bosch 4-burner 30" gas cooktop, model NGM5055UC. The question is: Can this cooktop be used during a power outage, by lighting the burners with a match? I am thinking of switching from an electric cooktop to gas, and the only reason for doing this is if the cooktop can be used when the power goes out (which it does pretty often around here, sometimes for days). The problem is that I've gotten lots of answers, and they're all over the map. The owner's manual that goes with Bosch cooktops (8 different models) says: "During a power failure, only the cooktop burners can be lit manually." That "only" puzzled me, since this manual applies specifically to
cooktops, not to stoves with ovens (ovens definitely cannot be used during a power outage). So I asked my question on Amazon. The first reply was "This unit has an electronic ignition, so in order to use the unit during a power failure you would need to manually light the burner." "Manually" presumably means using a match, rather than one's hands (by rubbing real hard on the burner?), but it didn't sound like the party who replied had ever actually tried it, so I asked again on Amazon. The second time I was told "unfortunately there is a safety feature built into this cooktop that is an automatic shut off and a match will not work to light the unit when power is out." What's weird about these contradictory replies is that both were signed "Goedekers" (evidently a dealer).  So I continued my research by asking my question in a chat on the Lowe's website. The reply was "Yes, it can be used during a power failure. No problem." I even phoned the manufacturer -- you would think they would know, wouldn't you?  The first time I phoned, I spoke to someone who didn't know the answer. She said "Just a minute, I'll have to ask," and then I was disconnected. The second time I spoke to Chuck, who told me no, it wouldn't work during a power outage, but it turned out he was basing his reply on a single phone call he had from a dissatisfied customer. I asked if I could speak to someone who knew more about the way this particular cooktop was constructed, and he took my number and said someone would get back to me, but they never did. So I am baffled. I was planning to buy this cooktop, but I don't want it if it won't work during a power outage. Isn't there someone out there who actually owns this 4-burner 30" Bosch gas cooktop, model NGM5055UC, and who has actually used it, or tried unsuccessfully to use it, during a power outage?


My wife  is a passionate chef. We love cooking on gas. Before we decided on a cook-top, we looked at the high end Thermador : SGSX365FS 36 Masterpiece Gas Cooktop Stainless . What made this gas cook-top famous is the simmering, (low flame) of 250 BTU. It has also a star shaped burner, that heats uniformly.  Thermador  is number one rated in gas cooktop in Consumer Reports and the model is at least three years old. The reliability of this high end appliance 8 in a 100 (according to consumer reports) There is a video on how to clean a Thermador. Search youtube. It requires  a toothpick (careful not to break it when cleaning the burner) cotton swabs and lots of patience. Considering cleaning after each use...

 For some reason, Bosch cooktops are not reviewed on Consumer Reports. But in the reliability graph of Thermador, Bosch cooktops are #1 with 4  in 100 failures. The model Bosch NGM8055UC800 30" Stainless Steel Gas Sealed Burner Cooktop has 18,000 BTU maximum flame ans 550 BTU simmering and costs half the Thermador price. Many people may buy this Bosch cooktop for its' beauy, but it is easy to clean and twice as reliable as Thermador. Please watch the video on how to clean it and compare

The Bosch NGMP655UC: 36" Gas Cooktop Benchmark started selling since April 2016. It is an absolute beauty, with a central  burner that gives 20,000 BTU maximum flame that goes to a minimum of 400 BTU simmering. I don't think any human will notice the difference from 400 BTU to 250 BTU in real life. And this model is 40% lower priced than Thermador.

There is the emotional reaction. The installer - who installed almost all models of appliances was evidently impressed with the Bosch Benchmark model. This cooktop. changed our kitchen without changing anything else. Nobody knows the future. But the feeling of exhilaration and sheer pleasure that an object can bring you home the joy of having something new. The only other company that has similar success in User Design. is Apple computer.

You don't want a restaurant gas cooktop. Because your home is not a restaurant. You want finesse, beauty and ability to cook anything the restaurant cooks with the same precision and taste.


This is the most terrible washing machine I have ever used. BEWARE! STAY AWAY from any top-loading washing machine that does not have a center agitator. IT DOES NOT GET YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN. Instead, it inspires feelings of hatred, frustration, anger, loathing, and revulsion because it simply does not do the main and only thing that it is made for (washing clothes).

This machine has a silver sensor in the center of the bottom of the machine, and you have to arrange your clothes around the sensor and make sure you do not cover up the sensor. Fine, no problem, I can do that. In fact, I am VERY purposeful about knowing the instructions in detail for how to appropriately use the washer. The user's manual says, "Load dry items loosely in the washer basket. For best results, load items evenly and loosely around the outside of the basket." However, no matter how exactly you make sure that you arrange the clothes perfectly and use the precise amount of the correct High Efficiency soap, this washer WILL NOT WORK.

At the end of EVERY cycle over the past 5-6 months, I consistently experience all of these problems:

  Clothes are not clean
  Odor is not removed
  Certain portions of various articles of clothing never even got wet
  1-2 items per load have large, slimy sections where they are still coated with soap (even doing an extra rinse)

Another negative is that the washer is HUGE and looks like it has a giant capacity, but you cannot put many clothes in it because once you arrange them to a certain height, they start to fall down into the middle and cover the sensor. The user's manual gives the following example of items for a "normal" load:

6 Shirts (Mens or Womens)
4 Pair Pants (Khakis or Twills)
5 T-shirts
7 Pairs of Boxers
4 Pairs of Shorts

OR

6 T-shirts
4 Pairs of Sweatpants
4 Sweatshirts
2 Hoodies
7 Pairs of Socks

When you put that much into the basket, it only fills it about a fourth of the way up, but if you put any more into the load, the results and cleanliness go correspondingly downhill.

I have used a very wide range of washing machines over the years - top loading, front loading, laundromats, etc. In general, despite variations in quality and modern cycle options, I have had no reason to complain about any of them. This washer, on the other hand, is so frustratingly, ridiculously USELESS that even though I have a washer in the house, I have to go to a laundromat if I am going to get my clothes clean.

The accompanying photo shows the sleeve of my coat after the completion of the "Bulky Items" cycle. I immediately put it back in on the "Heavy Soil" cycle and it came out just as dirty, at which point I gave up and put it in the dryer and went to post this review.


After a just over a year of use it's time to give my review. It arrived well packaged and installed easily enough.
The igniter works by pressing down on the burner know you want to light and it actually turns on the igniters for all 5 burners. By turning the knob it release gas to that burner and in theory it lights and you are ready to cook.
First problem was that only 1 of the burners would stay lit and that was after a few minutes of coaxing. It has a safety feature and will only light after a certain amount of time, I believe it was 30 seconds according to the manual but I was lucky if I could get it to stay lit after 3 minutes.
The other 4 burners would not even produce a flame. After hours of research and attempts to clean this or that I contacted the seller and was given the option to simply replace the igniters and they would send them no problem. I agreed and a week or so later they came. I replaced them and all the burners started to produce a flame.
There were still two major problems.
Sometimes they would light after holding the igniter down for a couple minutes or so. Sometimes you could hold it down for 5 minutes, it would lite but as soon as you let go of the igniter it went out.
The big problem that was pretty scary is that the two lower burned would light sometimes and they leaked gas. They would lit and about 2 minutes later a loud boom could be hear and the cabinet doors would blow open.
I contacted the seller again and they advised that I try and replace one more thing and if that didn't work we could have it replaced at no charge. I replaced the components they sent and nothing changed. Every contact attempt afterwards was ignored and I have not heard form them. We got the stove so we could some what get the center burner going after about 5 minutes and maybe the top left one but never more than two.
Never had this problem with the old stove we replaced.
Had someone come out and make sure it was installed correctly and for $65 they told me everything looked good.
We have a service through our local gas utility provider that covers repairs on all our appliances. Have had them out on dryer, washer and oven and no problem with getting things fixed.
On this cook top there is no serial number so our local utility provider will not cover the repairs. I won't get into what the old man with 25 yrs of appliance repair had to say about the quality of the cook top but never the less we were unable to get it repaired.
Decided to go ahead and purchase another one locally and it's been working fine, not one issue.
I see that some people have had good luck with these while others have had bad luck. Some level of problem is tolerable especially when purchasing on line and I am very patient. I am not telling anyone not to by or to boycott anyone I am simply telling you my experience so you are aware.


I needed to fill a space left by a leaky 42 inch vintage Wedgewood (time bomb) gas range in our circa 1930s historic homes kitchen. Since Im no gourmet cook, and an expensive pro style gas range was the last thing Id ever consider buying, I had to quickly become an expert on the subject.
Turns out that these things can get really expensive. After the initial sticker shock wore off (it really hasn't worn off yet) I went online and found that a 36 inch Pro Style rig could easily fill the space left by the enormous Wedgewood. So I looked around for used ranges and nothing came up. I even looked at commercial pro gas ranges that were lower priced than most pro-style home ranges, but found that if you put one of those in your kitchen, your home instantly becomes uninsurable.
So, after some extensive research; including reading dozens of online reviews, I came upon three all-gas options under four 4 grand: a Blue Star BlueStar Culinary Series RCS366BV2, a Bertazonni 36 Master Series MAS365GASXE01, and a Verona VEFSGG365NSS.
The Blue Star was my favorite because it looked exactly like a clunky and rugged restaurant style range. The Bertazzoni Master Series was its polar opposite; very sleek and refined. For me, the Verona was a perfect blend of the two others. It looked slightly clunky and rugged, but also had a somewhat sleek and refined look as well. The reviews on all three models were very positive, and none had any fiddly electronic elements to deal with, but I was really leaning towards the Verona
Heres what finally tipped the scales in the Veronas favor; I could get it on Amazon with ZERO sales tax and FREE shipping from the Home Care Company. The customer service from Home Care was top-notch and the range arrived earlier than expected. The  professional and courteous delivery team rolled it right into my kitchen and unboxed it in front of me so I could inspect it for any damage. It came in flawless condition and was absolutely gorgeous. And it fit perfectly where the old Wedgewood had been.
I had it hooked up by a local appliance pro and have been cooking on it ever since. It works beautifully, has awesome safety features, its five burners can accommodate any level of cooking expertise, and it makes our kitchen look AMAZING! Ive already gotten lots of compliments on this stove and I know that when I decide to resell my historic home, my kitchen will have that WOW factor buyers will be looking for.

3/14//2016 - I just wanted to add a quick update to my last review - this stove has really made cooking FUN again! Everyone who sees the rig just falls in love with it. We've just tested the convection oven and baked up an awesome quiche that came out better than PERFECT. And there's so much space underneath the rig that cleaning is a breeze.

I'll admit that we're always a little apprehensive about cooking anything in or on it because it's so pristine and pretty, and we don't want to get it all dirty, but it cleans up very easily once we've finished using it. It's AWESOME... AWESOME...AWESOME!


My Whirlpool Duet Sport ht stopped at an unknown point in the wash cycle, displayed F24 error code, and left saturated clothes in the locked washer. It allowed me to cancel and run a rinse/spin cycle. It also would run a full cycle using cold water.

According to Whirlpool's diagnostic guide attached inside the lower front panel (also available on-line), F24 is a water temperature sensor error, and could also mean an open heating element (infinite resistance). Comments at various web sites suggest a loose sensor connector or broken sensor wire is a common cause of this error. Others suggest unplugging the machine for 30 minutes and seeing if that clears the error.

There is conflicting information on the web about the location of the sensor for Duet Sport ht. On my WFW8500SR00, it's in the back, near the bottom, and obvious once you remove the back panel. Of course, you will unplug the washer before opening it up.

My time was limited, as is the space in my ridiculously-tiny laundry room. If I'm going to bend my no-longer 20-year-old body into the shapes required to get behind the washing machine, it's not going to be just for checking loose wires. I'm going to have whatever parts I'm likely to need if the wires are OK, so if I can successfully extricate myself, I only have to do it once, even if it means I buy spare parts I'll never use.

There are two back panels, with the small upper one overlapping the lower. The top panel doesn't have to be removed -- just use a 1/4" nut driver to remove the screws holding the lower panel, including the row of screws common to both panels; the lower panel slides down. The plastic hose holder can stay. The panel has notches around some screws -- those screws stay.  Two screws are in indentations. I suggest removing them last, and reinstalling them first, because they hold the panel on pretty well by themselves. The screw on the very bottom center is easy to miss.

One of the on-line videos shows prying out the heater/sensor assembly. I didn't do that. Instead, I squeezed the temp sensor connector with my fingers and gently pulled it off, then used ordinary 6" slip-joint pliers to slowly rock the sensor out toward me. It didn't come easily, because the part exposed to water was coated with mineral deposits (our water is neither hard nor soft). I rubbed some automotive rubber lubricant on the new sensor, and it slid right into the rubber gasket that holds it  -- soapy water would have worked just as well. I found no loose or broken wires. Without disconnecting any wires, I tested the heating element with an ohmmeter -- it was a healthy 15 ohms.

Amazon's tool reported it didn't know whether this sensor fits my washer. It does, and other sites listed it as a match. I received a genuine Whirlpool part. Vendor was Amazon.


This review is not part of the Vine program nor was it sponsored in any other way.
I bought this because the listing said "by Whirlpool". I didn't realize that what is pictured here and all over Amazon as the genuine Whirlpool / Maytag part is actually an after market part. If you are looking for an after market set you can save (currently) $4 by ordering this Drum Roller with Shaft Replaces Maytag 303373 12001541 instead. They admit it is after market and cut you in on the savings.
By the way, it is fairly rare for a repair to require any new shafts, or a left roller. The right side roller takes most of the abuse. Clean the old shaft well with a rag dampened with penetrating oil, then apply one drop of 20 weight oil before sliding the new roller on. While you are in there you should give the left roller the same treatment. Try not to flip the wheel around so that it will now turn the opposite way in case the wheel is worn with the shaft. In most cases your best bet is to purchase just one of the real-deal OEM rollers Whirlpool 12001541 Drum Roller for Dryer. You might notice that the GENUINE roller, whose picture in any of these listings is as elusive as a picture of Sasquatch, uses more of a translucent plastic, where this wheel is white. Also, on the one side of the genuine wheel you can see four extra posts next to the hub where the plastic was injected and the posts cut off.
What seller "Parts Appliance Chicago" sent me from this listing was two of the white washers, pictured in the lower left, none of the wavy / spring washers in the upper left, and no nut. But they did manage to send me two rollers! The seller was tricky because they sent a genuine FSP shaft in the bag to make it appear as if the whole set was FSP. The smell of cheap Chinese rubber gives it away. I doubt the OEM wheel is made of that garbage. Now the question is, did I receive two half decent ERP brand knock-offs, or did I get some real junk? I don't know. I will come back and update this if the rollers fall apart in the next year or two but I suppose by then this listing will be removed.
UPDATE 1-16, the dryer is still functioning well with two of these no-name rollers.


This fits - among others -
>>> 1964 Frigidaire Flair Custom Deluxe RCIB 645-2

> Surface burner INFINITE control SWITCH for 8 inch burner, 240 volts.
> That will be the left rear big burner on RCIB 645-2 = infinite heat =
which is simply a regular switch = which allows heat from low to high and everywhere in between,
hence the name infinite.

>>> (An infinite heat switch DIFFERS from "Low - Med - High switches, which provides only three heat settings)
> Typically when a switch malfunctions, the surface element (burner) will not heat,
or will remain on high in every position.

>>> ALSO - speaking for ONLY FRIGIDAIRE RCIB 645-2 stoves =
This Frigidaire 5309957099 is also the correct switch for the RIGHT FRONT 8" burner =
IF THE ELEMENT (burner) HAS EVER BEEN CHANGED FROM THE ORIGINAL 'HEAT-MINDER' element
and NOW IS AN INFINITE HEAT ELEMENT.
OR = (as in our case) CUT THE WIRE OFF HEAT MINDER BUTTON
and change switch to infinite heat switch. (because burner still works)
>>> Matching 8" element = Frigidaire 5306590805

> This part - Frigidaire OEM Part # 5309957099 = fits - Frigidaire model RCIB-645-2
Searches on a couple main web sites for appliance parts shows many part #'s this 5309957099 replace

Replaces Part Number 5307534769
Replaces Part Number 09957099
Replaces Part Number 07534769
Replaces Part Number 07526396
Replaces Part Number 07525722
Replaces Part Number 07525721
Replaces Part Number 07522792
Replaces Part Number 07521370
Replaces Part Number 07521245
Replaces Part Number 07521243 >>> this is the # that was on original switch - just replaced for L.R. burner.
Replaces Part Number 07520196
Replaces Part Number 06591447
Replaces Part Number 06590463
Replaces Part Number 06564355
Replaces Part Number 06564312
Replaces Part Number 06563695
Replaces Part Number 06563645
Replaces Part Number 06562429
Replaces Part Number T6539547

Replaces 2525
Replaces 6539547
Replaces 6563695
Replaces 6590463
Replaces 66004-9AF
Replaces 7521243
Replaces 7521245,
Replaces 7521370
Replaces 7522792
Replaces 7525721
Replaces 7525722
Replaces 7526396
Replaces 7534769
Replaces 9950919
Replaces 9957099
Replaces AH474739
Replaces EA474739
Replaces N9950919
Replaces PS474739
ReplacesT6539547.

One of two switches recently replaced.


The seller I purchased the item from is Amazon LLC

Easy easy easy! The bake and convection bake buttons stopped working on my 10 year old GE profile stainless and black range. I searched the internet for what might be wrong, diagnosed it was likely to be the control panel, found a how-to video on repairclinic dot com on how to replace the control panel and ordered the part here on Amazon. I used the GE and Sears website to match the exact model number of my range to the spare part required. Two day shipping and my item was here almost before I truly missed my range. The item was packaged nicely and was well protected.

Once I confirmed the item looked basically correct, I followed the repairclinic instructions, unplugged, and disassembled the top part of my range. Then I disconnected the existing control module. The entire process took about ten minutes. It's a but of a pain because all of the fasteners are different. A hex driver is required to remove the hex screws on the back. A star tip screw driver (very short or one with an elbow ratchet) is required to remove the lower screws on the front. A phillips head screw driver is required to remove the four screws the hold the control module in place. Once all of that was done, I unplugged the one connection and then replaced the old control panel assembly with the new one. Then I plugged the oven back in, checked to make sure the metal parts weren't "hot" and verified that the lights came on and the buttons worked. Everything worked perfectly.

Next it was time to reassemble the range and this was the only difficult part. The key is to slip the top of the assembly over the back of the range holding the bottom away from the range at an angle, then tuck the "guts" so they fit inside the lower lip of the assembly, and then screw if all back together. The screw holes didn't match perfectly so it took a little holding and pressing to make it all fit tightly together, but in the end it all fit together perfectly. The reassembly took about 40 minutes. Before I did the final tighten of the screws I plugged it in once again to make sure everything still worked well and that nothing had come loose during the reassembly. All worked perfectly so I unplugged again, retightened the screws, plugged it in again and pushed my range back into place.

The entire repair took about an hour. I would classify it as very easy with the reassembly requiring patience not brute force. I am a 55 year old woman who is not handy, and I did this by myself. I've never done anything like this repair before. The range is in a remote location so a repair person was not an option. Circumstances forced me to address this problem on my own and completing it successfully was a real confidence booster.

I'm very pleased with my purchase and am happy to have my range back in working order. I really appreciate that Amazon carries these repair parts and that they ship to far flung places. Replacing this unit was a very positive experience and, since the visible parts of the control assembly have been completely replaced, my range looks brand new. Very pleased.


I owe this beverage center a review after several months of issue-free operation. I was hesitant to do so too quickly after another brand/model failed miserably on us after only a few months.

As mentioned, we have had no issues with this unit at all.  It is impressively quiet (especially compared to the other equally expensive unit it replaced) and gets the job done. I guess that's one of the best compliments you can give one of these things.  You don't really notice it until you need it.

We removed the top half-shelf, which makes it much more functional for our needs (including beer bottles and other items that height).

A minor nit is that I wish there was an option to simply leave the LED light on at all times. Instead, the maximum is a few hours. Energy efficiency thrust upon you, I guess, but LEDs are not exactly power hogs.

I will update the review if and when we ever have problems, but here's to my not having to ever do so!

As promised, I am reporting back with an update as to an issue that has later arisen.  Overall, the unit is still performing very well and quietly. One odd issue that has popped up though, is that the unit sometimes gives off an open door alarm when the door is quite clearly closed and sealed.  So, it is a sensor (not operational) issue.  A repair company came out (entirely free via warranty) and said it is just a metal piece along the bottom that becomes unaligned (he made it sound like this was not the first time they have dealt with it) and the sensor doesn't think there is contact with it.  Unfortunately, the alarm is still occurring intermittently, but it doesn't shut down the unit, so it is more of an annoyance than anything.  Would certainly still purchase and recommend this product but they need to take a look at this design issue.

[UPDATE (December 8, 2016)]
The false (door ajar) alarm was continuing intermittently so we called out the repair guy again. This time I was there to see exactly what he did.  It really is as simple moving this piece of metallic tape back down, at the bottom lip of the fridge.  It just kind of shimmies up and doesn't connect with whatever is in the door to tell the unit it is closed.  A very simple fix that has worked.  Still going strong (and quietly!) with no other complaints.

[UPDATE (October 3, 2017)]
I am reducing my rating to 4 stars because this door sensor issue will not go away.  See my comment of this same date in response to someone having the same problem, but bottom line is that this method of sensing whether the door is closed is problematic and seemingly very shoddy compared to the rest of the unit. As I mention in my comment, I have furniture wedged up against this thing to press the door closed (and initiate the sensor) until I can once again get someone out to (maybe??) fix it.  They need a better system or some sort of sensor redundancy.  Otherwise, it is still operating quietly and very well. I don't regret the purchase but this has been very frustrating.


We have had this refrigerator for about 4 months now.  It was a replacement to a TINY refrigerator.  We reconfigured our kitchen, and were able to utilize a new area for a fridge, so happily, got to go significantly bigger.  Still had to go counter-depth and smaller than I would have wanted, but that being said?  I love this refrigerator.

Counter-depth does cost you a lot of cubic feet in storage, but I love the way that it feels more built-in.  And it's hard to get to the back of a deep refrigerator anyway - things can get lost.  In our situation a standard depth would have extended beyond the door frame into the living room, which was not an option.  We have a small home over all, and a small kitchen.  This unit allowed us to get all of the bells and whistles we wanted, and still have decent storage capacity in our somewhat limited space.

This refrigerator is BEAUTIFUL, and has lots of great features.  I love the way the ice maker is "hidden" behind storage inside the door.  So many others that we looked at had a ugly, obtrusive ice maker as the focal point on the door.  It WAS very slow making ice for about the first week.  But since then,  no problems.  It DOES make some funny noises every once in awhile, but it is NOT noisy.  Just odd noises periodically.  Great versatility in the way you can configure trays and shelving.  The only negative to me is the two smaller (for fruits and vegetables) storage drawers.  They are too small in my opinion, so I have to store a lot of my veggies outside of the drawers.  They are fine, so it's not a big deal to me, but I would have preferred a larger capacity.  TO me, that's the only negative.

I LOVE the Temp Select Zone Drawer.  It is full-width, spacious, and allows you to change temperature for either meat, beverage or deli.  The drawer lights up red, blue or green (changing to bright white) depending on the setting you have chosen.  All of the spotlight lighting in both the fridge and freezer is amazing.  No way that anything can hide, because the entire refrigerator is beautifully illuminated. Even the freezer, which is nicely compartmentalized, and has a great pull out drawer at the top for items you want to reach quickly.

As you can see we are right up against the wall on the left side, and cannot open the door past 90 degrees.  It doe not limit us in any way.  All of the drawers open fully due to the smartly configured shelves on the doors.

I thought that the photo viewer was a silly idea, but I have to admit that it's kind of fun to watch our doggie's slideshow on the door!!  The exterior light on the dispenser area is very pretty - acts as a nightlight in a dark kitchen.  The only idea that escapes me is the hot water dispenser.  It takes 5 minutes to heat enough water for a mug.  Just use the microwave.

I HIGHLY recommend this refrigerator, especially for folks with limited space available to them.  It's gorgeous, and will give you all the fun features you want in a modern fridge, just in a smaller package!!


I am experiencing the exact same problems that Charles is with this Frigidaire.

Fridge worked fine for about 4 months then began making terribly loud rattling sounds, like a broken fan or something. This apparently then caused the freezer to completely freeze over, no longer self-defrosting as advertised, and also with the added bonus of cutting off any cooling to the refrigerator itself thus spoiling hundreds of dollars worth of food.

The knob inside the freezer is cheaply made and poorly designed for its uses. It is a plastic turn knob like on a dryer, built tightly into it's space and hard to grip, and apparently attaches to some control behind it that (I think) it can completely break loose of. So upon initially finding the freezer freezing over, my first obvious plan was to turn it down with the knob provided, I know...genius right? Upon doing this the knob felt like it broke free of whatever it is attached to inside of the refrigerator. Not sure if the freezer broke first and froze the knob, or if somehow the knob broke causing the freezer to go full blast. I can't fathom how this could be since at no time did I ever have the freezer turned up past half. Finally, one day out of frustration, I tried it again. Knowing all too well it wouldn't have any affect on the temperature, I turned it. To my disappointment, the knob completely cracked off.

I have an appointment scheduled to have it looked and will update with how that goes.

*UPDATE

Had a service tech from an appliance repair company stop over and he is putting in an order for a new fan. He claims he "really helped us out" since Frigidaire doesn't consider the knob that is integral to the operation of the freezer, and the fridge as a whole, a worthwhile issue to help its customers with.

Frigidaire goes as far as to say that any knob, control, etc is purely a "cosmetic" issue.

Can you believe that? The control for the entire refrigerator, which it is completely useless and inoperable without, is only cosmetic?

Glad you don't build automobiles Frigidaire, because I wouldn't want to be in the vehicle that breaks a steering wheel loose and have you tell me it was my fault, being too rough, then go on to tell me it's only cosmetic lol. How about this Frigidaire, try building a quality product for once, that you actually have the confidence to back up and stop ripping customers off with low quality junk and terrible customer service.

What a joke of a fridge, and an even bigger joke of a company.

**UPDATE #2

The fan that pulls cool air into the refrigerator has broken once again and is no longer cooling properly, as in hardly at all. Once again this happened after spending about $200 on groceries and stocking it full. I found out that my landlord bought a warranty for this refrigerator (good idea but completely pathetic that it was necessary) so I will be contacting Frigidaire's warranty department and reply with an update. At this point I'm ready to contact whatever agency will help me with this lemon of a product.

This "refrigerator," built by Frigidaire, has cost a poor college kid hundreds of dollars in wasted groceries and massive inconveniences.

Frigidaire should immediately recall this terrible product before anyone else falls victim.


It was a direct replacement for the OEM. Zero issues swapping it out.

A few days after the installation with the refrigerator running fine to that point, the refigerator then started running warm in the refrigerator section but cold in the freezer. A little research and frozen evaporator coils due to a defrost issue was a likely cause.  I had marked the shaft of the timer and verified rotation after installation indicating the defrost timer clock was working.. but not any more. I didn't get to the root cause instantly as the part was new, I had verified it after installation and the previous one lasted 29 years.

I manually rotated the shaft with a screw driver and put it into defrost cycle. You can tell because the compressor and the fan stop when you hit that point on the clock and they had been running steadily for 2 days (because the refrigerator section never reached temperature, due to the now block of ice evaporator coils).

After manually timing the defrost cycle to thaw the frozen coils (yielding a good quart of water in the drip pan) I killed power and uninstalled the new unit intending to put the old suspect one back when I found the problem. While the new unit is very similar to and identical in mounting to the OEM there is one difference. In the OEM version the power for the timer is hard wired in, in the Supco there are two thin spade lugs that straddle the robust terminals for power connector. They are very light weight as minimal power is required to run the defrost timer clock but one of them had broken where the thin body of the spade meets the part of the spade that is crimped on to the wire.

Did I bump it during installation, maybe but the bend in the wires and lugs between the broken and unbroken sides appeared identical save for the 1/16" air gap between the pieces of the broken spade. It is more likely it was stressed during during manufacture when the spade was pushed into place or during packaging.

Since the original is suspect I soldered the pieces of the spade together and for good measure added a dollop of solder on the still good connector to reinforce it at the weak spot and now the timer rotates again.

Originally swapping this Supco part for the OEM was a very easy change out but since I had to repair it after a couple of days of running, it only gets 2 stars. I suspect getting connector(s) that were stressed is just my bad luck but it illustrates how light weight the spades connectors are. No human hands touched it after installation so the failure had to be vibration induced (beyond the initial stress).

I would buy the unit again but I also would take the preventative measure of adding a touch of solder at the weak spot as described and who doesn't like a part they feel compelled to strengthen before putting it into service for it's designed use?  Were is not for the paper thin spade lugs, this would get 5 stars. I have written Supco customer service expecting nothing other than hoping for future product improvement.


We enjoyed our LG fridge for about six months. Then, the never-ending battle began.

First, we heard a knocking sound. After answering the door to no one for the tenth time, we realized it was the fridge. I Googled. I read the manual. I scratched my head. Unplug it, everything more-or-less told me. Great; restart it. Hold down CTRL+ALT+DELETE at the same time. Got it.

I left it unplugged for the recommended four hours. Then I powered it back up and the knocking immediately commenced. A few days later, we got the IF error code.

Error code? A refrigerator has an error code? Seriously. This was too complicated already. Once again, I turned to Google, the manual, and my scalp.  I called the store. After all, they had strongarmed us into a warranty I didn't want, and Im so glad they did.

So the repairman came out. He told me that these fridges were notorious for breaking down. Then he proceeded to show me how to repair it myself because, This isn't the first time and it won't be the last.

We took the entire freezer apart to get to the ice blower fan, essentially. It gets frozen solid. Every three months like clockwork.

Was it manageable? Yeah. First world problems and all that. But then other stuff started going down:

-The large mechanism that slides into some other cheap, plastic part did something stupid, so the door wouldnt always close. So guests would shut our fridge but not shut our fridge, which resulted in
-A ripped rubber door seal.
-No matter what temp the fridge was set at, food sitting directly on the glass shelves or in two of the three produce drawers would freeze. And were not talking about some delightful icy crunch. Entire pieces of fruit, meat, even cheese would freeze solid. Did you know cheese could turn into ice? It can. We cannot store food in half of our fridge. (However, I lined all of the shelves in newspaper, which seems to have helped. Plus, I can now read about the local elections from a year ago every morning while I get the orange juice.)
-The freezer fan clogs with ice so often, I have to mention it
- twice.
-The water dispensing button is starting to stick.
-The ice dispenser clogs on a daily basis. We keep a knife honer nearby to stab into the bin. I repeat, this happens daily.
-It gets fingerprinted to he77. I know this is a hazard of being an appliance in a home where the occupants have hands. But I hate this thing and now Im just searching for more to add to the list.
-The water valve that connects the water line to the fridge wore out. So now we don't even get water or ice until I replace it.
-And now the ice maker is broken. That's a $120 part.

We have a second fridge in our house. We got it for free from an apartment complex that was throwing them away. We keep it in the garage as a beer fridge. Dudes, this fridge (I don't even know the brand) is probably 20 years old (at least), is ugly as sin, and is chugging away like we do on  beer.

Meanwhile, my $2,500 LG heartache mocks me with a frozen water melon, incessant ticking, and dripping water.


Just got this 2 weeks ago from my local Best Buy at less than $1000. It's a no-frills, space-maximized, low-profile fridge in a nut-shell. I wish its freezer was at the bottom as the fridge compartment should be the main focal point, at eye-level, and with the easiest accessibility.  Well, even though LG makes a bottom freezer (drawer) model, it costs like $200 more. No thanks.

Interior lighting:  LEDs are nice and cool looking.  Illumination could be better for the back but totally within acceptable range.  Not an issue for me personally.  For those with issues, look into battery-powered motion-sensing LED stick-on lights - when you open the door, these lights turn on for a pre-set amount of time.

Noise:  It's silent when its fans/compressor are not working.  When they're working though, they're on par with most modern fridges, this is no thermal-dynamic silent operation people.  But then again who succeeded in denying the law of acoustic physics thus far?  So a quiet fridge but do expect to hear noise.  Manual says that at room temperature of 70F, expect its compressor to run 40~70% of the time.  What a wide range...

Settings:  Right now, I stick w/ the factory recommended ones: Freezer:3 / Fridge:3 lights.  I may lower these settings down the road as ice cream is too hard...

Ouch my feet:  Fridge door is massive and occupies all the way to the near bottom, beware when you close its door as the door will ram into your feet.  A lil' taller kickboard would help but then you'll lose storage volume.

Ice Maker:  It should be made easier to remove entirely.  It occupies too much space like now & most people from what I heard don't use/want it.

Lack of partitions:  It's actually a plus for me instead of a minus.  Right now, all I need to do is to get bins from The Container Store or IKEA to design my own storage interiors.  Also, a wide open space like this = extreme spaciousness.  It's what makes this fridge unique.

This fridge replaces my 8-yr old, 4-door, digital-display touchscreen Samsung one.  Which was a state-of-the-art $2500 super advanced fridge at the time.  You might think that this LG one is a downgrade, right?  Function wise & temperature setting wise; maybe.  Space saving wise (footprint); no. Storage volume wise; a huge upgrade, and looks wise; this doesn't pale next to the now defunct Samsung one.  This one looks just as modern with its stainless front and its silverish sides aren't ugly or too plastique either.  Get this.  Glad that I was on a budget and gave up on those pricey gimmicky multi-door / digital display ones or else I would never encounter this bargain fridge.


Great looking range hood.

Unfortunately it arrived with a small dent which fortunately will be hidden by installation. Packaging not thick enough for adequate protection for gorilla/drop-kick shipping cos. and handling between manufacturer and US consumer.

Mounting instructions were minimal and incorrect - as was the mounting planning design by the designers. I had to disassemble the lower under side of the range hood (10 screws with poor alignment when reassembled) to access the four top screw slot mounting points so it could be attached to the cabinets above securely. The corner/side mounts will not be useable if the hood is to be mounted between cabinets as in my case. The mounting screw slots in the top of the hood shell are too thin (screws bent metal while trying to mount) to support the weight of the hood without additional 1" fender washers on the mounting screws to spread the load. There is no way to access the mounting screws (without disassembly) and mounting screws included are too short -1/2"- for secure wood cabinet mounting and I substituted 3/4" pan). Clearly, the designers were not familiar with or did they consider the typical American in-between kitchen cabinets mounting location for range hoods.

The halogen lights on the range hood put out a lot of light at the front of the cook surface, but get very hot - as in do not touch. They should have been tilt-able LEDs and I will probably replace them - as soon as I am over the excessive installation effort. Additionally, mine are focused to far to the front of my KitchenAid range to cover the cooking area and probably of most ranges. Still, my stove is better lighted than before.

While the UGA ad says that the noise level is 65db at 900 cfm - it is probably at least that and likely more, and it doesn't significantly diminish between the different fan speeds as I was hoping. While it is the most powerful range hood (most range hoods are 180-300 cfm - compared to 900cfm for the UGA) I have ever seen (actually blows the leaves around on trees 20 feet away on the outside discharge) - it is also the LOUDEST at any speed. You may want ear protectors while cooking and conversation will be almost impossible unless the person is standing immediately next to you and your ear - and shouting. If your goal is to get have an attractive range hood and to get cooking fumes and smells out of your house - this range hood will do it. However, be prepared for an unpleasant noise level - (that IMO with some minor engineering design changes [different bearings, vibration isolation fan motor mounts, fan intake baffles and a lower fan speed range] could have been mostly avoided).

In summary: It is a very attractive design IMO, but be prepared to spend some unexpected planning time, effort and a lot of frustration on installation. Don't forget to also order your ear protectors at the same time.


This is a long trail - but the end result is this DOES FIT - among others -
>>> 1964 Frigidaire Flair Custom Deluxe  RCIB 645-2
> Surface burner INFINITE control switch for 6 inch burner, 240 volts.
> That will be the right rear small burner on RCIB 645-2 = infinite heat =
which is simply a regular switch = which allows heat from low to high and everywhere in between,
hence the name infinite.

>>> (An infinite heat switch DIFFERS from "Low - Med - High switches, which provides only three heat settings)
> Typically when a switch malfunctions, the surface element (burner) will not heat,
or will remain on high in every position.
>>> Matching = 6" element = Frigidaire 5306590804

>>> ALSO - speaking for ONLY FRIGIDAIRE RCIB 645-2 stoves =
This Frigidaire 5309957098 is also the correct switch for the left front 6" burner =
IF THE ELEMENT (burner) HAS EVER BEEN CHANGED FROM THE ORIGINAL 'SPEED HEAT' element
and NOW IS AN INFINITE HEAT ELEMENT.

> This part - Frigidaire OEM Part #5309957098 = fits - Frigidaire model RCIB-645-2
(which is same as first number replaced - now different by starting with 53 -)
Searches on a couple main web sites for appliance parts shows many part #'s this 5309957098 replaces.

Replaces Part Number 09957098
Replaces Part Number 07533010
Replaces Part Number 07532999
Replaces Part Number 07531878
Replaces Part Number 07531877
Replaces Part Number 07531379
Replaces Part Number 07526395
Replaces Part Number 07525720
Replaces Part Number 07521242
Replaces Part Number 06563642
Replaces part # 614
Replaces part # 7521242
Replaces part # 7525720
Replaces part # 7526395
Replaces part # 7531379
Replaces part # 7532999
Replaces part # 7533010
Replaces part # 9950918
Replaces part # 9957098
Replaces part # AH474738
Replaces part # EA474738
Replaces part # GR5600
Replaces part # N9950918 >>> this is the # on the switch just replaced on our stove = works perfectly
Replaces part # PS474738
---------------

Footnote - 8" ELEMENT SWITCH & ELEMENT = we had a lucky find on ebay
>>> Frigidaire 5309957099 switch is correct for the left rear 8" burner which has always been infinite heat.
And = if the ORIGINAL RIGHT FRONT 'HEAT MINDER' element has ever been converted to a regular
element OR (as in our case) CUT THE WIRE OFF HEAT MINDER BUTTON
and change switch to infinite heat switch. (because burner still works)
>>> Matching 8" element = Frigidaire 5306590805

One of two switches recently replaced.


I studied outdoor kegerators for several months.  You get a lot of bang for the buck with this unit.  Mine was missing a couple of screws and the channel lock tool but other than that it has been great.  Haven't had a chance to use outside my outdoor kitchen is not quite ready but so far here is my experience using indoors:
Unpackaged unit a few weeks after it arrived.  Had a very visible denting going on in the front door apparent to the outside (box was perfect so either a manufacturing defect or left the factory damaged).
Since my outdoor kitchen is not ready yet, and was using a loaner kegerator for craft beer (Baja Brewing) I figured I might as well test it out before too much time passed.  First since it was easier to move, I installed the coasters (which I will have to remove once I install in the final position).  Easy enough, but remember usually the coasters/wheels with the brake are for the front.
o problem.  I had to move from there to the current operating location which is up 2 stairs then another 2.  Not too difficult.  Put it where it would be for the time being then began to set up.  Arranged hoses, etc.  Had to remove the tower again because the gasket was I another place and was complaining because it was not there but it was but in another bag.  Also they do not mention that the screws from the top rail fit VERY tight (felt like I was stripping them).  Took me well over an hour from start to finish but all looked good although I have not yet installed the door handle or in the final under counter location which will be another chore to do correctly and a lot of ingenuity will be needed to create some type of sealed plastic insulated sheath between the above counter tower and under counter kegerator).  From there I left sit from about 1pm to 10AM and then connected.  Started with temp about 50 degrees.  Overall very quiet.  Loaded the first two sixth barrel kegs about 8-9pm.  Had for several days working great, but could not regulate correctly.  The instructions include a different regulation system that was is included.  I finally had the craft beer personnel here to help regulate.  Was much better but still not perfect.  I would fluctuate (to save electricity) between 40-50 degrees.  After several days and two more kegs, I started setting temp at 37 degrees.  Still quiet, comes on a bit more frequently but not bad.  After letting sit for 2 1/2 days, first pours came out perfect.  I have a black (Swartzbier style) ad a Blonde (Cream Ale style) and both pour great,
I will mention that there is no apparent hole ready for an external CO2 tank (which each time my craft beer company delivers ad installs ten kegs tell me that the CO2 tank is dangerous inside the tank (currently using two sixth barrel kegs ad a regular size CO2 tank because I have yet to find someone in my area who will fill the small 5lb CO2 tank).
Overall for price (although for a very small outdoor kegerator I find very pricey) compared to others and the features I would very highly recommend this EdgeStar unit.


Best machines on the market at this price bracket.

Before I go in to my own review, I want to point out (as per the comments on both his reviews) that Amazon reviewer "Steve" who has posted two identical negative reviews actually own a DIFFERENT MODEL (WM2650HRA, a cheaper and older unit). It seems he's cluster bombing any LG models on Amazon with this review and posting it twice - While he may be frustrated with his models, it's completely misleading for anyone looking at these machines because they are incredible.

My review: We needed new machines for home and I just wnated the best of the best. Sadly, since Maytag flooded the market with cheap machiens the high end of the market has narrowed considerably. I was advised by my local appliance store to buy Electrolux units (EIFLS60LT Washer & EIMED60LT dryer). It turned out to be the single worst purchase of any device in my lifetime; I won't go it in to here but after a year long battle with ElectroSUXS, 11 technician visits and 60+ hours of my life I'll never get back, they finally and begrudgingly sent replacements....which turned out to be BROKEN.

Thankfully the silver lining of this was the opportunity to get my money back from them! After a lot of research, which firstly involved talking to the various technicians that were coming to attempt to fix the Electrosuxs units, every single one said "LG", without even hesitating "easy and cheap to fix, if they ever need it" was the same response from each one.

So  I got these units from LG (WM4270 range) and after 4 months of use, I could not be happier. So much, that I just ordered a second pair for my business, even though the warranty doesn't cover commercial use. I don't care - they're that good.

Firstly, HUGE drum size, yet small overall unit footprint. I can do 15-20 large, soaking wet towels without them even flinching. They also have a ton of of programs but they keep it simple on the dial. If you want to customize the programs then you can easily, using the little matrix buttons for each setting (temp, soil, spin speed etc) and a nice touch is that if you try to go outside what is sensible for that setting it won't let you (i.e. you're trying to to go max temp on a delicates setting). Simple things like this make it a real breeze to use if you just want it for basic functions but then you can also get really advanced with completely customized programs if you need (I haven't bothered yet).

These units are also really fast. Sub 20 min wash cycle and the paired dryer unit will dry a huge load of heavy clothes in around 45 mins.

I could go on and on, but honestly, these are incredibly machines, period.

The only single issue that these have (the entire LG range have it) is that the internal valves for the hot and cold water feeds open and close very quickly. This can lead to water hammering (google it) in older houses where pipes aren't strapped or very long pipe runs, but this doesn't bother me as I have strapped pipes and hammer arrestors installed.


Bought from Amazon reseller 1-Stop Camera to save on taxes and shipping. Took 30 days to get, and I paid $150 extra for installation. The installer was  a mover who had no training, was ignorant of gas-line installation, and did not have fittings available on his truck. When he started to install the flex hose to the house gas valve without teflon tape or pipe joint compound, I told him to stop and that I would do the install. 1-Stop refunded the install charge. The other hick-up was that the stove measures EXACTLY thirty inches wide, and my counter top had to be trimmed to fit the stove.

After I successfully installed my new Kucht KRG3080U, I noticed that one of the burner grates did not sit flat on the stove. Kucht customer service was extremely responsive, and offered to immediately send a replacement, but suggested that I try moving exchanging the left and right grates to see if that would not make a difference, which it did.

I've been fixing great meals on my new stove for about one week, and cannot be more pleased with a major appliance purchase. The quality is exceptional regarding form, fit, and function. The burners are high quality castings and machined brass that are made for disassembly and cleaning. Compared to my 27 year old Roper, the burners are huge! The valves have an unusually smooth feel and are capable of micro adjustment for precise flame control. In combination, the cooktop is like upgrading to perfect cookware that heats the food evenly, without the need to swap food from the outside of the skillet to the middle, for even browning. Speaking of browning, bacon cooks perfectly, without burnt parts for a crispy result, and butter melts without browning. The tiny burner ring on the two-ring burner is perfect for keeping pots warm, and can be used instead of a hot plate.

Equally wonderful is the convection oven. First time I made a pizza that did not have to be turned midway through the cooking time, which you should note is reduced by about twenty percent when using the convection oven's fan.

One of the main reasons I purchased the Kucht stove was because it lacks the mother board almost all modern stoves are afflicted with. Stove manufacturers  love the motherboard because it fails fast (electronics do not like heat) and they can charge as much as a laptop costs to replace it. Other reasons include high quality parts, build quality, responsive customer service, and last but not least - great value.

Haven't had this stove for long, but love it so far. My only complaint - and it's a minor one - is that one of the burner grates must be removed before you can remove the center grate, to clean the stainless steel strip between the burners.  At a fraction of the cost of a Thermador, Wolf, or Viking, the Kucht KRG3080U delivers on overall on quality and excellent cooking experience. The Kucht warranty explicitly states that the stove is made for residential use and will not be covered for constant/commercial use. The sheet metal on this stove is lightweight - only .025 inches thick - so it will not take the beating of an industrial kitchen. But for home use, this is a great stove!


We upgraded from a 15 year old refrigerator, so this model blows the old fridge away.  It has ample room in the fresh food storage and frozen food storage areas.  The small shelves on the ice maker door (the left hand door) are not adjustable, but come in handy nonetheless.  The shelves on the right hand door are adjustable and, as advertised, easily hold a gallon of milk.  The LED lights are nice, but I still think a bulb is out when I open the doors, because the LED lights are not as bright as the old kind.  The interior is dim, but you can see well enough.  The doors open and close with ease.  The multi-colored LED lit drawer adds some coolness to the fridge.  The water filter is easy to get to and change out.  However, the filters run close to twenty-five dollars a piece.  I imagine a generic filter will come out soon enough that will be lower in price.  There are three places to get ice.  One is in the door of course, another is a small tray inside the left hand door, and the third is in the freezer.  I like that you can turn the one in the freezer off.  The upper tray holds plenty for the two adults in our house.  The freezer is well lit and food is easy to see and get to.  The unit cooled down quickly after initial setup.  We have had the refrigerator for a couple of weeks and, overall, we are very pleased with it.

As for shipping, we order online constantly, but we had never order something this big.  However, the price here was more than 900 dollars less than local, so we thought it was worth taking a chance on shipping.  It took about ten days to arrive, but it was in showroom condition when it got here.  Not a scratch on it.  The delivery company notified us via email when they picked fridge up.  We did not hear anything more until a few days before delivery.  They emailed and called on a Friday to let us know the delivery would be made the next Monday.  It arrived within the time window promised.  The delivery guys were nice and helpful.  They opened the box so I could inspect it prior to accepting it.  They volunteered to move the refrigerator into my garage.  I handled the actual installation, which was easy for an experienced do-it-yourselfer like me.  There is a lot of packing material inside and out that took a while to remove.  In my case I had to remove the doors to fit the unit through the door of the house, but I choose a 32 inch door.  You might have to remove the door handles if you use a 36 inch door.  Removing the doors and reinstalling them was easy and took about 45 minutes.  I think the handles are held on by allen wrench screws. Once on solid flooring the fridge rolled easily.  After install you lower the front braces to hold it in place.

One last thing, the bypass water filter device is pre-installed in the water filter housing.  The refrigerator comes with a water filter, which was taped inside the fresh food storage area.  I mention this, because I was convinced the bypass device was not included since I did not see it anywhere.  It was not until I went to install the filter that I saw the bypass device.


We do not own this EXACT LG frig, but one similar to it and LOVE it except for one HORRIFIC flaw that  this refrigerator appears to share with a one we already own, that you should be aware of and which LG has done nothing to fix and which can cost you thousands in repair bills.

The door panel to the left of the water/ice dispenser goes bad, on a regular basis and it both stops the panel from working , so nothing is dispenses or settings changed and 'peels' off the base plate. Luckily, we purchased a four year extended warranty and the repair charges, thankfully under warranty were $680.00 for the first repair (April 2016) and $480 for the second (Nov 2016).
The repairmen both said that although they are unsure of the exact cause, it appeared to them that the ice maker, located directly above this control panel on the door, somehow was allowing moisture into the housing behind the control panel, condensing and causing the shorting of the panel and then The condensation that had gotten inside of the housing and on the back of the door panel control caused  The front plastic outer covering to begin peeling off of the panel itself, from the bottom up, with an ugly black 'V' that can't be removed under the peeled bottom section. So that when you approach the refrigerator you see through the clear plastic outer touch panel, a prominent 'V' shaped Mark,  like some little kid took a sharpie to it and I could not remove it.
Two more points for your consideration.  The first time I called the warranty company, their representative tried to blow me off and say, 'we do not cover cosmetic issues, including the control panel peeling away' and it was ONLY when I said, it is not JUST the peeling, but error codes are coming up about the defrost cycle lasting over an hour (funny looking codes but something li,e R U 8) and I told her that the panel had 'freezes' for hours at a time and no ice/water, etc can be dispenses and the frig does not run did they finally and reluctantly agree to send anyone out and please be aware, this happened in April & again, in Nov 2016, both times requiring replacement of the control panel so if you decide to take a chance, you may want to purchase as long an extended warranty as you possibly can. It appears to me that these warranty companies are aware of what's going on with this model and they will try to claim  it is a cosmetic issue.  Don't let them.
Lastly. Do not take my word for this, look at other reviewers on similar LG refrigerators that have had EXACTLY the same problems. I want to love this refrigerator and as far as we are concerned if, IF, they ever fixed this issue, which it does  not appear to be so far it's part of their improvement program, since we are building a new house, I would buy this refrigerator again in a second, but until I see evidence that they have, and we have not, again check the  other  reviewer's, then sorry,  it's really a one star but I give it two because other than this NO star door panel issue,we love the refrigerator


Just installed this new model 36 inch GE induction cooktop three days ago. The installation only took about an hour including electrical connection. This cooktop is replacing the exact same model we had installed in our old kitchen from about 6-7 years ago. I have always raved about this induction cooktop and I would not replace it with any other brand or type. The price was right, it heats up in a hurry, and it is very easy to clean. I believe induction, with the right pots and pans, to be better than any other type of cooktop heat source. And because we've had no problems with the old one, when we decided to remodel our kitchen we kept it, it was that good and held up great.  Since the beginning I have been using cast iron pans -large and small- and other heavy gauge pots and pans. It held up great with no scratches or cracks whatsoever.
However, after re-installing the original in the new granite top without any problems, a drill fell on it while tightening up the vent hood above. This caused a crack about three inches from the corner. As I said I would not replace our favorite appliance with anything else, so we ordered from Amazon this same GE model and got it within four days.
There are some differences between the older and the newer model however.
* The newer model has a front and back stainless steel edge covering the glass, where the older model had a handsome curved glass front.
* The newer model has a smaller diameter cable going to the junction box, but the wiring is still the same gauge within it.
* The original baffle plate that screws underneath had a 1 inch rubber extension flap on each side, whereas the new one although it is the same  length with the old one has no rubber flaps. The two new small baffle screws were course-threaded (nit picking) where the old type were galvanized machine screws that would not easily strip the holes in the housing. I kept the older baffle plate because the new one was bent inside the box when it was delivered by UPS. There was not much protection for the baffle as it had no styrofoam around it and it was right up against the cardboard side. Amazon has to communicate with the shipping companies to be more cautious with some of these delicate electronic appliances.
* One important difference was that the new model had the improvement I always was hoping for in my old cooktop and that was that the burner glass top areas are now more defined. In the past I had a little difficulty sometimes in keeping the pots/pans on center.
*There was one disappointing difference with the new model and that is the increments on the controls no longer have the .5 (half) increment.
The older model would go from L- 1 - 1.5- 2- 2.5- 3- 3.5 etc, the new one goes from  L-1-2-3-4..... .
We did find the half increments useful in the past.
* Finally, the new model has an ethernet port (RJ45) underneath. I am not sure what purpose is serves, but I sure wish that it could be used to re-program the computer to re-introduce the half increments.
Overall We are looking forward to enjoy this GE Profile model for years to come as we did the old one.


2nd update: Updating my review again.  The local Fisher Paykel authorized service technician finally did get back in touch and looked at the dishwasher.  Apparently if you put something in the dishwasher which is "too big" water can slosh over and activate the flood detector.  I don't recall ever putting anything really large in the dishwasher, but it's fairly simple to open the unit up and dry it out once someone shows you how to do it.  The other comments still apply.  This dishwasher is not very adjustable and best suited for people whom mostly use traditional plates.  Larger soup bowls and bowl-like plates don't fit very well, so I end up washing 40% of every pile of dishes by hand.

Update:  The dishwasher failed 5 months after the warranty ran out.  I get an F1 error, which is some kind of problem with the flood detection system.  There's no visible water, so the sensor must have failed. There's only one authorized repair center in town, and they seem to be the opposite of the Maytag repairman: so busy they can't be bothered to return calls.  Looks like I'm out a lot of money and now have to buy a new dishwasher; hence updating the review and reducing the number of starts from 2 to 1.

I spent an awful lot of time researching dishwashers and ended up selecting this one, reasoning that we didn't run our previous dishwasher very frequently because we rarely had enough dishes to fill it up, so I would just wash them by hand.  The reality is that it's so awkward to put stuff in this dishwasher that I end up using both drawers to wash what would have previously been a "half" load.  This might be a good choice for someone who uses plates, silverware, and cups; but we frequently use bowls instead of plates and the kids always have several plastic containers in their lunches, and none of this stuff (bowls and plastic containers) fits into the dishwasher very well.  I end up washing more than half the dishes by hand anyway.  Second, the old dishwasher had a heated dry option which would sometimes melt plastic objects that got tossed around in the wash, true; but at least it would dry the dishes.  Even if I leave the finished dishes sitting in this dishwasher overnight more than half the stuff is still soaking wet in the morning, so has to be hand dried using a towel.  The bottom line is that using this dishwasher is more work than just washing the dishes by hand and using an ordinary dishwasher as a drying rack.  Finally, the silverware container is very poorly designed.  It kind of flops around in the dishwasher, and it's hard to fit the larger silverware through the little slots on the top piece, which (annoyingly) keeps popping off.

Edit: the set of things that can be washed in this dishwasher keeps shrinking.  I'm noticing that containers and deeper bowls are left with streaks of detergent and in some cases aren't getting clean at all.  Given the price, this is easily the worst purchase I've made in a while.


We purchased a brand new Kitchenaid dishwasher in a brand new home. The dishwasher never worked, we had 3 service calls, they replaced motor and the power board, and now they won't replace the unit. Here's how it played out...

We closed on a brand new house early January 2018 with all new Kitchenaid appliances (Refrigerator, Range, Range Hood, Microwave, Dishwasher). This dishwasher never worked, it would not circulate or dissolve the soap, nor would it dry at all (it is supposed to have heated dry, and yes, we filled the Rinse Aid with their suggested brand before ever running it). Whirlpool/Kitchenaid sent a service tech three separate times to work on it. The motor was replaced, and the power board was replaced, but it still doesn't circulate or dissolve the soap, nor does it dry at all, same exact issues as stated above (see the attached photos for proof).

After one month of going through this process, we spoke with customer service and requested a replacement. Then had to wait another 2-3 business days for someone to hopefully approve the replacement. Robin (refused to give her last name because she obviously knew they were in the wrong) from Whirlpool/Kitchenaid finally got back to us and determined that they would NOT replace the dishwasher. At this point, we have NEVER been able to use this dishwasher. We also found out through this painful process that this particular model has been discontinued, and Whirlpool/Kitchenaid also has a "service flash" on this unit (something related to a defect with the upper rack system), which was told by their direct tech line to the onsite service tech.

This unit, ours in particular, is obviously a "lemon" and needs to be replaced. We are shocked and distraught that Whirlpool/Kitchenaid would not back their own product, especially with the "Kitchenaid" brand which is supposed to be their higher end brand. It is appalling how this company operates and conducts business, and how they've treated us as true Kitchenaid customers. Please keep in mind that this is a brand new house with all brand new appliances, and the builder wanted to install FRIDGEDAIRE PROFESSIONAL SERIES appliances, but we specifically requested and paid for KITCHENAID, which is turning out to be the biggest mistake we could have made.

All we wanted was a working dishwasher, which we never got, now we have to go out and purchase ANOTHER one on our own, because Whirlpool/Kitchenaid will not back their own products, which is a total disgrace. We cannot understand for the life of us how ANY company could leave their customer with a brand new non-functioning dishwasher!!!

BASED ON OUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE WITH THEIR CUSTOMER SERVICE (OR BLATANT LACK THEREOF), WE CANNOT RECOMMEND ANY KITCHENAID OR WHIRLPOOL PRODUCTS TO ANYONE FOR ANY REASON.


I was renovating my kitchen and needed a new "island" range hood.  The previous vent hood that I had was only good from one side.  I saw this one and it looked perfect.  Rest assured that what you see is what you get - only it looks even better in my kitchen (see picture).
Sadly, I cannot give you many installation tips, because I had an expert installer put it in for me, who was an expert in all of the "trades", but I did watch and help a little.  The end result was more beautiful than I imagined. He did mention that the installation manual was vague, the picture on front didn't even match my model, and I think the instructions say to mount it to the sheetrock - which we didn't think was nearly sturdy enough.  It's a heavy, steel piece, so we came up with a new plan.  He built a wood box frame, with the thickness of three 2"x4"'s, and secured that in my attic, and attached my new range hood to it.  I could practically swing from it, now (but don't try that at home).  We also used almost all of our own screws - with the renovation going on, I had plenty of additional hardware and tools on hand.
Because my ceiling was lower (8ft) in the kitchen, our unit didn't need such a long "neck" - but the 2 steel rectangular sleeves that come with it are meant to be "nested", so we had to cut both pieces almost in half but, because my installer was an expert, he made it look great - as you can see by the picture!
If you must have something blocking your newly opened view (we tore down a wall, between the kitchen and living room), then it should be this beauty!
It has 4 well-placed lights, one on each corner, for "full food disclosure" - it really lights up my stove top!.  As a personal preference, I've already replaced my little lights with the LED white light version of the bulbs, because I like more white light and less yellow light - purely my choice - but I wanted people to know that replacement bulbs are easy to find.  I bought them right off the shelf at my local hardware store, in the specialty lighting area.
All 4 speed settings of the fan work great and, of course, the higher the setting, the noisier the fan - but the more vacuum power you'll get, for getting rid of the smoke (not that I ever burn anything)(maybe once or twice) (a month).  The lower speeds are pretty quiet compared to my old "hoody".
My old vent hood had knobs and it had 3 speeds, 1). noisy, 2). super noisy, 3). noisiest...I SAID NOISIEST!
This one is a touchscreen and I really like it.  It looks super clean and modern and it is everything I expected and more.  I would highly recommend this!


Bought a FP set in 2000 when they were fairly new because of the design of the drive unit alone. I knew the design of the drive unit was superior to other washer designs that relied on standard horizontal output motors, gears, transmissions, clutches, etc. I was tired of tearing into these components for repeated and expected frequent replacement and repair. Not to mention several water pumps. Had never heard of FP before.

Replaced the motherboard on Washer at yr 6. Fix was plug and play simple replacement (+/- $60). No other problems. Family of 6. Lots of laundry. Ex-wife kept them in 2014. LOVED the direct drive (electro-magnetic?) simplicity, durability, and quietness -very quiet. Also like the simple push button settings vs. a loud, clinky dial system like most other washers typically use (points & condenser style contact points). Little if any improvements to washers motor, clutch, transmission, the motherboard/dial controls, or the damaging agitation means of cleaning in several decades, until the FP system was developed. Very different and much simpler in many design features.

Used very little electricity & water (approx $13/ yr, or $1.00/ month. I'd call that "High Efficiency". Something to do w/the direct drive, magnetic push/pull motor?). Spin dry excellent. Cleaned better then all other washers previously owned, mostly Maytag, which had lots of repairs (clever advertising though). I repaired them myself.

Most liked was how well it CLEANED and very few moving parts. Cleans by Cycling/pulling water and detergent THROUGH clothes constantly (center towards outside drum) instead of beating them harshly with agitator I.E.: easy on fabric. Gas dryer was flawless. Quick dry times also.

In the market for a new set and I wouldn't consider anything BUT a FP. I'm going to go w/the basic EcoSmart (same model/features as the first set) so that I can use "normal" detergent and is $100 less then the AquaSmart which will ONLY run on High Efficiency detergent. Only other advantage to the AquaSmart that I can find is auto bleach & fabric softener. Which I can add manually w/the EcoSmart when/if I want. Why pay $100 more and not be able to use common, readily available, less expensive detergent? Also, the AquaSmart can be run in EcoSmart mode, BUT still requires HE detergent at all times. The FP used about 1/2 as much detergent as was needed in the previous washers. Took some getting used to.

Another small, but user friendly feature is being able to lift the lid and see what's going on and have the washer keep running its cycle. All previous washers/other brands would stop running when the lid was raised. The FP keeps running, but will lock the lid closed when spin drying. Friendly when ok to do so, locked when safety is needed.


Motor maybe great.... Time will tell.  But read the following and tell me what you think.
In mid April, I bought the Minn Kota Riptide Ulterra 80/IP w/i-Pilot 24V-80lb-54" via AMAZON from Offshore Wake for nearly $200 more than what they currently are advertising them for (which is $1999.99).  The motor arrived a few days later and I had it professionally installed on a MinnKota RTA 17 Riptide Composite Quick Release Bracket with a special 24 volt plug/receptacle costing $50 (as recommended)
From the very start, this motor gave us problems in that it would not fully stow away onto the holding bracket. After several tries, calling Minn Kota head quarters, taking the motor apart per their instructions, and spending hours on the phone, nothing resolved the problem.  Finally the motor decided not to work at all (did not deploy or stow) and would only display a red flashing status light.

Per Minn Kotas request, I took the motor to a registered dealer in Deland (hour drive).  He had it for a few days talking to Minn Kota head quarters, but was also unsuccessful.  By now Offshore Wake started to get involved after the poor review I gave and requested return of my money.  Otherwise I wanted the motor replaced immediately. Minn Kota refused to send a new motor until they had the broken one in hand. So the dealer in Deland boxed it up for me with Quick Release Bracket and special plug still attached.  We sent it back along with a note that I wanted a new motor with the current Quick Release Bracket and special plug transferred to this new motor.  Test it out to be sure nothing is wrong.
Needless to say, the new motor came, but neither the Quick Release Bracket nor special plug was attached.  The Quick Release Bracket came in a separate box, but still no plug.  So once again I had to take it down to a professional dealer and have a the Quick Release Bracket and new plug installed (at a cost of $100).
Minn Kota needs to know that this chain of events which cost me three weeks of BS time instead of fishing, is unsatisfactory.  I am one disappointed customer.

One month after I originally bought this motor I finally have a motor that works. However, she still has not been water tested as will do that tomorrow.  It cost me an additional $100 to get new motor professionally installed which included another special plug.  Add to that, the extra $200 I paid for this item and inconvenience I went through, some type of compensation should be awarded to me.
Whats only fair to me is that Minn Kota offers me a Plus 2 Extended Warranty for free.
This is a $290 value that will provide the compensation I deserve at no cost to Minn Kota if their motors work as well as they say they do.
Why should I pay for this with all the inconvenience and additional cost I went through

I deserve a four year guarantee

I am requesting Minn Kota and/or Offshore Wake to please respond to this request at their earliest convenience.  Please provide me someone to contact to get this compensation resolved.
Thanks


I first saw these units at my local Costco and was impressed with how large they were.  I am not a fan of front-loaders, but most top loading machines are pretty boring, so I decided to just hang on to my 15+ year old Magtag washer/dryer which worked fine.  After seeing how nice these LG units looked in person, I figured it was finally time to upgrade.

After shopping around, I found the best deal (by far) here on Amazon.  Including tax (but with free shipping) I paid roughly $300 less than Costco was charging for the same unit.  Yes, I was a little nervous buying something like this online, but hey, it's Amazon, right?

These units were shipped via freight company (I think it was Old Dominion).  If you have not dealt with this situation before, you need to be aware -- the freight company will call you to schedule delivery, but this is not explained at the time you place your order.  So, word to the wise -- keep your eyes peeled for voicemails from the freight company, and you may need to call them to confirm the delivery date/time.

Aside from shipping, I had one small issue with my dryer -- after installing it, the display flicked on and off, and some of the digits in the time readout were not showing.  I called LG and they arranged to have a service tech come to the house a few days later, but the problem eventually fixed itself so I cancelled the service call and so far, the dryer seems to be working correctly.

As for the washer, my wife absolutely loves it....but be prepared -- this high efficiency unit does not function like the older top-loading units.  My old top loader would fill up with water, then slosh everything around for a while, and then spin, drain, and repeat for the rinse cycle.

The LG high efficiency washer does not fill completely with water.  Instead, it measures the weight of the clothes at the start of the cycle (it does this by spinning the basket back and forth several times).  Once it knows how much the clothes weigh, it will run through a wash cycle that involves partially filling the tub with water, and then spraying additional water onto the clothes as it spins them back and forth.  Honestly, if you watch this it doesn't look like the clothes are getting cleaned, but the end results have been extremely good so far.

I still have my fingers crossed for these units to be as durable and long-lasting at the old Maytag pair they replaced, but at least for now we're very happy with them.

P.S.  One other point to consider -- one reason we bought these was due to their huge capacity.  However, this is a double-edged sword.  Yes, you can run huge loads of laundry in one shot, so that's helpful, but it also means that when the clothes are done drying, you will have a HUGE pile of stuff to fold and put away.  Not really a negative thing, but just something to consider.


I was a little hesitant about this, as I wasn't sure if the convenience was worth the cost.  After having it up and running over the last month, I'm pleasantly surprised.  The key is understanding the cycles and what works best for the different material types.  It was fairly easy to install...the hardest part was just getting it level because the ground where I have it is slightly sloped.  Once that was done, though, it's been a piece of cake.

The first thing that surprised me was the water requirement.  I had expected that distilled water would be a requirement like other appliances.  Upon reading through the instructions, though, it specifically requires clean tap water and NOT distilled water to function properly.  This is especially nice because it always seems when you need something the most, you're out of distilled water (I have a few other devices that need it).  I like that I'll never be in a position to have to go to the store before I can use it.

Next, the ease of use.  The touch buttons on the front of the door are easy to use for sure and take very little training.  Loading clothes or blankets in the Styler is also super easy.  Anyone expecting a complicated device here will be pleased to find that it's really pretty simple.  Again, the key is just understanding up front which cycles / modes are appropriate for different material types, but the documentation included with the unit make it very easy to understand.

Finally, appearance.  This unit is quite attractive for sure.  Sleek, modern and dare I say, even a bit sexy for an appliance.  While I didn't have room in my smaller master closet or laundry room, I would not hesitate putting it in either one if I could.  If you're building or remodeling and are interested in something like this, I would absolutely recommend adding it to the plan.  It not only adds an element of sophistication in terms of pure appearance, but it adds a massive level of convenience.

To sum up, I'll say that we have greatly enjoyed the ability to quickly refresh items like wool suits (including the pants crease feature), blankets and even my kids stuffed animals.  They come out smelling fresh and clean, and my sport coats / suit pants feel like they've just been dry cleaned.  I get much more wear out of them in between full on cleaning now, which will help cost justify the unit in time, too.  Also, if you use non-iron dress shirts, this thing works very well with them.  I never need to take these shirts to the cleaners at all anymore, which I love.  I simply wash them, dry them, and hang them in my closet.  Then when I need to wear them, I throw them in the Styler for 30 minutes and they're good to go for my day.

We really enjoy having this and recommend it for anyone looking for that added layer of convenience and sophistication to their laundry capabilities at home.  The cost of the unit is higher, so I wouldn't say that it's a necessity for everyone, but if you're willing to foot the bill, you'll be glad you did.


This drink refrigerator is amazing! It is the only fridge under $1000 that I have seen that will cool to 34F, and it actually does. I originally bought a similar fridge that was advertised to cool to 38F and cost $200 less. Not only did the fridge arrive poorly packaged, but it was superficially damaged.  Furthermore, it never registered a reading lower than 41F from my digital thermometer.  In the end I returned it and bought the Avallon.

From the moment it arrived my experience was different. It arrived in a well-packaged box via freight delivery on a pallet, with a pallet "do not stack" cone. The box design is ingenious, as the bottom is a separate piece of cardboard and easily separates from the top. That brings me to its footprint: its quite big to be designed for under-counter installation. I had measured the intended space for the fridge and I had exactly 34.5 inches. NOTE: you will need every bit of that space and possibly more. I had to take the feet off, put on some furniture pads to barely avoid metal scraping the floor, and I still had to remove the vinyl flooring to get this behemoth to fit under that counter. I would not recommend buying this fridge if you are set on positioning the fridge under the counter and don't ABSOLUTELY have 34.5 inches to work with. Also, I don't know who has the extra 2-3 inches of depth to provide the ventilation that is recommended in the instruction manual, but I don't so it's recessed as much as possible.

I have also read some people feel that the compressor is loud. Maybe because my fridge is such a tight fit against a concrete wall that I do not hear it, but this thing is quiet to my sensitive hearing. Another great feature is the lighting. The lights are placed on every level of the unit and really illuminate the space in an unobstructed way, which I know sounds inconsequential, but makes it look very luxurious. As I mentioned, this fridge really cools as advertised. Maybe even too well!  I had to bump up the thermostat to 36F because I have registered a temperature as low as 28-30F when the compressor kicks on (see picture).

I did buy the extended warranty offered from Amazon because stainless steel drink fridges are expensive as a lot, and there always seems to be a lemon out there. That said, Avallon has a one-year factory warranty AND will repair/replace your compressor for five years after the date of purchase. I haven't dealt personally with their customer service department, and I hope I don't have to, but it seems like the company stands by their product. My only complaint is that I have had my eye on it for 8 months and it recently went up in price from $719 to $899.

In summary, if cold drinks are important to you, don't be fooled by the lower prices of comparable models. This one is the real deal!