At 1/3 the cost of some of the name brands that we found through Sears or Best Buy this unit looks just as nice and works very well.  The fan is a bit louder on level 3 than I would expect (almost impossible to converse with someone standing near it) but the suction is very powerful.  The LED lights were a concern for me originally but they are actually much brighter than what other reviewers led me to believe.  They are certainly more than adequate to cook by and much brighter than my previous late 90's hood light that had the frosted and grease covered plastic over it.  The unit is fairly easy to clean with just a damp cloth but we have not tried cleaning the vents yet as we do not do a lot of greasy cooking under, usually just steam.  The steel of the exhaust port is easy to simply wipe down with a mild cleaner but the glass does collect a lot of dust.  You should expect to wipe the glass down at least once per week especially if you have any pets (I am not sure how it is possible but my husky finds a way to have some of his hair settle on top of the glass).

Overall this unit performs very well and meets our expectations and needs but there a few changes I would like to have in it.  The clock is 24 hour style only and cannot be changed to 12 hour.  For most people this is ok but might be bothersome to others.  We wish the lights had a dim setting that could be used as night lights perhaps but instead they are either on or off. We wish the highest suction setting was a little quieter.

In response to all the people that said the instructions were terrible or not adequate, I am not sure what they were looking at.  The wording on the instructions does seem to suggest that they were put through multiple levels of a translator website but that doesnt matter much.  Just looking at the pictures and looking at the parts it is rather simple to figure out the only way that it is possible to put the thing together.  While some screws may be difficult to reach or the unit may need to be flipped over once or twice it was not overly difficult to assemble.  The hardest part is definitely getting the thing hung on the ceiling once the bracket is attached.  I suggest you have at least two strong helpers as the thing is heavy and will need to be held up long enough for someone to attache 4 screws around it at least.  I would not trust the screws that they sent to hang it on the sheetrock ceiling and would suggest that you do what I did and reinforce the mounting plate by adding wooden braces in the ceiling. I was replacing a cabinet mounted unit so I already had my ceiling open and didn't want to trust sheetrock to hold up this units heft.

Overall a good product at a great price compared to the $1000.00+ units I saw elsewhere


After much research I bought this range 2 years ago, and overall I'm very pleased with it. Here's how I rate my Bertazzoni from good to bad:

First the best part: It's strikingly beautiful, and the cooktop is amazingly versatile in its heat range. This is also my first time using convection, and I LOVE it, I had no idea roast chicken could be so good! The price point is also fantastic.

Now the pretty good:I also really like the electric ignition feature. It took
a bit to get used to, it can be tricky to get the oven properly lit. You have to keep the door ajar untill its fully lit (takes around 60 seconds)and if you close the door too soon the flame goes out. So a little fussy, but no big deal.

Now the kinda bad: The oven is HUGE, probably overkill for my family of four.
I feel like a huge energy waster getting it all fired up to bake a simple casserole. Also you MUST use two oven thermometers if you are doing something delicate like a souffle. (Which I have done, and it turned out beautifully.) One side gets hotter than the other and the oven temp NEVER matches what the setting on the dial says. Using the convection feature and two thermometers corrects for this problem completly. I get extremly even and uniform browning while baking 4 trays of cookies at once and my pizza is perfectly crispy. In retrospect I might have gone with the 30" model, but I REALLY wanted 5 burners. Anyways...

The worst part: It has a truly uncool (uncool, get it? Sorry, bad pun) cooling feature that vents hot air into your kitchen. The first page of the manual explains that you will need to double the exhaust in your kitchen to compensate. Which I am in no position to do at this point. It's fine in the winter, actually cuts back on our furnace usage, but in the summer it makes my house an inferno. So, light summertime baking is no longer an option. Not that I love baking in the summertime anyway, so I am learning to deal with it. I do wish I had known this ahead of time, I can imagine it would be a deal breaker if you lived in New Mexico (I live in Portland, Oregon by the way.)

I do love my Bertazzoni, and I would recommend it to someone who loves to putz around the kitchen, and has time and patience to deal with the quirks. If you are busy and highly value precision in an oven, this might not be for you.


We recently bought an older home where we really needed a 36" range that could make a statement in the kitchen. I've had a few friends/coworkers who spent the money on Viking ranges and have had nothing but trouble with them. We looked at Thor, Jen-Air, Thermador and Wolf and I just could not justify the cost while we needed an entire houseful of appliances. I was able to track down the Verona ranges at a local appliance retailer and was pleasantly surprised. We took a chance, its been 2 months and so far I'm quite pleased. My husband and I both cook a lot (I would have loved to get a gas range...but that wasn't an option for us in this house)...Looks, its a stunner! The oven while not as high as what I'm used to, I like the width, I can easily place pans side by side--which is something I couldn't do in our 30" oven. So I don't feel we're missing out on the space in the oven. It bakes evenly and the convection option is a great feature, the warming function is also great. I read other reviews where people complained about the lack of features...I haven't noted anything. It heats up well and has cooked lasagna, cookies and cheesecake very nicely. The cooktop is easy to clean, the middle element is great for big soup pots and the side elements handle our cast iron griddle nicely too! Where I think improvements can be made, the dials...it would be nice to have them easier to read, the first few weeks I kept bending down to read the dials! A self cleaning feature could be nice...not a deal breaker for me as I prefer to manually clean the oven...but it would be nice to have the option. Otherwise, for the a 36" pro-style range, the Verona comes in at a reasonable price point, has style and (so far) functions really well!

A follow-up: Thanksgiving was a couple of days ago and this oven performed beautifully! This was the first year in years...that we didn't have a double oven and I was nervous that we wouldn't have enough oven space to get dinner on the table hot. Well, the width of the oven was a lifesaver! 18lb Turkey was on one side, with a casserole dish on the other side and other sides heating above on the upper rack. Dinner was served hot and there was plenty of room in the oven!


Myself and my fiance moved into our new home where there was a washroom that measured exactly 54" wide, 32" deep, JUST enough room to squeeze two units side by side. The alternative was stacking the units on one side of the room. The issue with that was we would have to open the wall and reroute the dryer vent to higher up on the wall and across from where it currently sat. As new homeowners, not particularly handy with drywall and having enough expenses as it was, this wasn't much of an option for us but it seemed that it would be what we'd have to do. We began looking for dual units that would just cut it depth wise, but now the issue became the depth of the dryer vent pushing the would-be dryer out of the wall too far, and the doors of the units not all being reversible. As such, they wouldn't clear the door frame.

One day in my search, I came across this type of all-in-one machine. Many people complained that the unit didn't dry their clothes properly, or enough, whereas others said that theirs dried perfectly. We were hesitant, but trusted that this was likely either user error (like not choosing the correct drying mode) or having the drain hose having to pump too high up to efficiently drain the machine. We decided to pull the trigger and give it a try, since now only having one unit allowed us to put it in the middle of the washroom and still have storage on either side, being ventless meant that it would fit depth wise and didn't require any work on the wall or vent behind it (or replacing the junky flammable tubing that came with the house to the external vent), and the timer allowed us to set the wash to go off overnight and be ready for us by morning. Problems solved!

We've had it for almost a month now, and it works perfectly. The drain house is about 4 feet off of the ground, and we set the dryer to "more" when we put in a particularly large load. Just treat the machine like it's not an industrial washer and your clothes will come out fine. When they start to fill the whole drum, we run a load. The machine will spin a few times to determine the weight of the load, and then will estimate how long it needs to run for. For us, it's usually a 3-4 hour run, which again is fine when you can set the timer the night before and/or start a load in the morning, or afternoon. Hope this review helps!


Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.

So enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.

1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.
2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.
3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.
4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).
5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.
6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.


I did a ton of research on my specific AC needs before landing on this unit. This was purchased for use in a nursery and installed through the wall. Ive been using this unit for 2 moths now in peak season and have zero complaints. Let me break down why this unit is so awesome

THROUGH-THE-WALL OR WINDOW
The biggest benefit, not listed in Amazons description, is this unit has a SLIDE-OUT CHASIS - making it ideal for a through-the-wall installation (up to 8 thick). After removing the grille, the entire guts of the A/C slide out on a tray, leaving you with a metal sleeve to install. Once the sleeve is installed, just slide the tray back in and re-assemble. This unit can also be mounted in a window with some additional assembly, all necessary parts are included. Either way you install it, its much easier installing a light metal shell and re-assembling than trying to install an entire unit at full weight.

QUIET
Reviews on other sites praised how quiet this unit is, and its true! This was a huge concern and I would have returned it in a second if I wast happy with the volume. It has three fan settings. I keep it on low and it quietly cools the room without waking the baby.

EFFECTIVE
It works fast! I have this unit installed in a 200 sq. ft. room and Ive seen it drop the temperature 10 degrees in about 20 minutes.

EFFICIENT
This unit is also energy efficient. Like most modern A/Cs it turns to fan mode when your ideal temperature is met. It also has an energy saver modes which cools to 74, and completely shuts off for a while until it needs to turn itself back on. Its a nice feature although a little startling to a baby, I just leave it on.

OTHER
Aesthetically, its fine. Its not as modern or sleek as other A/Cs Ive seen, but this was the least of my concerns. It also comes with a magnetic remote, pretty cool. I just leave it stuck to the side of the unit.

SUMMARY
Id highly recommend this unit, especially if you plan on doing a through-the-wall install. It was far cheaper, and more efficient, than any other true through-the-wall units I researched. Remember you cannot block the intake vents on the side, so if your walls are thicker than 8 this unit may not be for you.


The product worked, but this was not an easy repair for me to make.  I have a Kenmore front-load washer from 2009 (model number 417.48102701).  The controls started "acting crazy" (LEDs were randomly blinking, settings changing by themselves, etc.) and a quick Google search helped me identify the problem as being caused by a bad control board.  I found a forum that linked to the service manual for the washer, so I bought this board and replaced the bad board.  The good news is that the washer works again. The bad news is that it was a long, frustrating repair job which took something like 2 1/2 hours total.  I went through three iterations of disassembling-and-reassembling the machine.

The service manual was written for people who already know what they're doing, whereas I had essentially no experience fixing appliances.  The biggest problem was that after i re-assembled the washing machine, the program knob was badly misaligned, in the sense that the pointer on the knob didn't point to the correct program listed on the console.  So I had to partially disassemble the machine, and then troubleshoot the issue with the control board hanging down by its wires, while the machine was plugged in (possible electrical risk here).  I more-or-less figured out how to align the knob, but then re-assembly was surprisingly difficult (the shaft didn't seem to want to go into the knob properly, and I had to fiddle with the thing).  When I finally reassembled, the pointer was off by one click.  So I disassembled again, tried to fix it, and reassembled (again, with difficulty).  Still off by one click.  At this point, I gave up, and I now run the machine while keeping in mind that the pointer points one click to the right of the actual setting.

In addition to the above difficulty, I experienced several other, smaller issues, such as problems getting parts to snap in place properly (or unsnap when disassembling).  I'm sure that if I were more handy, I wouldn't have had these same frustrations.  Or, at least, I'd solve them quicker.

Anyway, the point I'm trying to make here is that if you want to fix your own washer, you should probably be more experienced than I was.  Or maybe you can find a friend, relative, or neighbor to do it for you.


- I am an architect with 45 yrs in the high end house biz - in this case, I am talking about a first hand experience, as we bought it for our new house and learned several very important lessons.
FYI - I am not a paid in anyway to put this review out there... and we did not buy ours thru amazon.

BE WARNED - THE COOLING FAN IS EXTREMELY LOUD AND DISTURBING. (as i have now learned, many products have the same issue of late as they have gone to similar cooling solutions... for glass as electronics - they say)
FEW FOLKS are ABLE TO RUN THEM IN THE STORE TO SEE HOW THEY SOUND OR really WORK... and are left relying on a sales person or reviews like this one - please do your homework. Push them on details...
- it took some work but we are now finding out, after the fact, that we are not alone in our concerns.
- Try to find a show room that lets you run it - if you can
- push them for very specific details...
- find out the return policy

Major Issue:
NOISE from the cooling fan is SO intrusive as to make it unusable in our house (it is equal to our BIG exhaust hood at mid setting). Other kitchen layouts that use a staff might be fine... But it runs all the time and blows hot air 30"s off the ground directly at you and your kitchen.
- since learned, trying to replace it, there are many ranges at this price point that have switched to this cooling method.
- some have a subtle difference in the way the fan cools the door and the electronics ( which are limited in most of them...) we are going with the SMEG and will report accordingly.

Bertazzoni did not even feel we had a problem ( and does not have decibel rating for it nor do many others).

on a positive note, the cook top seemed to work well for the 1 month we owned it. we did not use the oven but once so we have no experience.
FYI - you need to use a thermostat inside to know what the temp is as there are no gauges...

- this range is graciously being taken back by our vendor as we do a great deal of business with them, but you don't want to count on that  and it is certainly not the practice of Bertazzoni as they and other mfg's of similar product do not see it is a problem.
After much research we intend to replace it with SMEG of similar spec... and do intend to buy it thru Amazon  as our vendor does not yet carry it - we shall see how it goes.


I use my wonderwash about four times a week, mostly for small items like cloth diapers (pre-rinsed by hand first), baby clothes, socks and underwear.

For me, it does what I wanted it to do, which is save the vast amounts of money we were previously spending using the $4 washers and dryers in our apartment building. I'm glad I got it and would buy it again.

The pros:
* Clothes really do come out clean. Even diapers. No problems.
* It doesn't take too long. Not as super-speedy as you might expect given that washing takes only two minutes of handle-turning and rinsing takes one minute, but still, it's about 10 minutes a load even with the poor water pressure in our taps. (The time-consuming part, for me, is filling up the washer with 6 quarts of water, once for washing and once for drying, and also waiting for the water to drain out again after each part of the cycle.) I used it in the bathtub once, where we have much better water pressure. The filling took only a few seconds, but the turning was much more awkward. So now I do it on the kitchen countertop and drain into the kitchen sink.)

The cons:
* It's not horrible to turn, but it's not just a quick twiddling of your fingers either. There is a moderate amount of actual effort involved.
* DON'T FORGET THAT THINGS WILL COME OUT SOPPING WET. The machine doesn't spin at all, so you have to get the water out yourself by wringing things manually. This takes a while, especially if your load consists of a billion small items, and all the wringing is more effort than turning the machine. If you did this to a no-iron shirt, you'd get horrible wrinkles that would be tough to get out even with an iron. And also, no matter how well I wring the clothes, they still end up considerably wetter than they would be if they'd been through a regular washing machine with a spin cycle. Since I hang clothes to dry in our apartment, that means I wait about 12 hours for them to be completely dry, rather than about four. This means that our apartment is almost never free from "decorations" of socks draped over the chairs. I think it is probably worth getting one of those mini-spinners too, to take care of this problem.

Tips:
* As I saw in someone else's review before I bought it, it really is easier to turn the handle if you have the full six quarts of water in it, even if you're not washing a "full" load of clothes.
* Don't use much detergent, or you'll have to do more than one rinse to get rid of it all. The clothes really do come out clean even with only a teaspoon or so. Less if it's the HE stuff.


This is a super nice mini refrigerator / freezer combo.  For now, I'm giving it 5 stars because I love it.  Hopefully, it will hold up through time.  I took a chance on a little known brand because the price was right.  My daughter is heading off to college in the fall and I bought this for her to reduce food costs and give her more options for meals in her room if she's hungry.  I have to tell you that I have a smaller mini fridge in my office at work that doesn't have a freezer section and when this arrived and I unpacked it, I wanted to trade with her!  It arrived in perfect condition and I immediately set it up, adjusted the temperature control and plugged it in.  The next day, I loaded it up with drinks and popped several microwave dinners into the freezer compartment.  The next day we cooked up one of the frozen dinners and tried out a drink.  The dinner was properly frozen and the drink was perfectly cold.  I love that the fridge has a separate basket section for fresh produce as my daughter always likes to have fresh fruit on hand to eat.  The door section has a designated area for cans and another for liter bottles which would also work for juice or milk.  The only thing I wish this refrigerator had was optional ledges for adjusting the height of the racks.  As it currently is, if she has something tall to put in the fridge, she can remove one rack and place it on top of the other giving her 1 large/tall section but this will reduce her storage space since this would make 2 sections become 1.  If there were additional rack ledges, she could possibly still make a taller section and retain a 2"-3" section for smaller items like yogurts etc.  However, all in all, this is a wonderful mini refrigerator that appears to be working perfectly.  I did purchase a 2 year warranty in case issues develop in the future since this isn't a well known brand.

I received a discount for this product in exchange for my honest and unbiased opinion.  I know many potential buyers get concerned when they see someone has received a discount in exchange for a review as they worry that the review may be inflated.  I myself pay attention to this when reading reviews on products I'm considering purchasing.  Please be assured that receiving a discount in no way influences my reviews as I am committed to providing accurate information based solely on my experiences with products for the benefit of all other buyers.


This part arrived FAST thanks to Prime and was a perfect replacement for the failed oven ignitor on my KitchenAid convection oven.  I had searched the regular Whirlpool repair products and saw 2 different ignitors for my oven.  The customer rep for them was worthless as she had no clue either as to which was the correct igniter so I ordered both.  The one I didn't need arrived first after 5 days so I had to call them to find out where the right one was in their system... not wanting to take ca chance, I searched for the part on good old Amazon!  It was less expensive and arrived in 2 days (other part from the Whirlpool place arrived three days later than the Amazon part's arrival.

For others who need an ignitor for this model of oven, the more expensive one (about $110) is for the top burner of the upper oven.  The lower burner of the top oven and the convection oven is the less expensive part (about $50).  Replacement is fairly easy - first turn off the gas AND unplug the range's power cord!, pull the oven out and unscrew about 8 hex screws (a cordless screwdriver recommended), then remove the back metal panel - there is a gas shutoff rod that you will need to carefully remove as you remove the panel.  Locate the connector to the ignitor you need to replace (you may need to go to the next step to determine which wire set to remove).

Next, inside the oven, remove the oven racks, slide the enamel burner cover to the right and remove it.  Then remove the thumb screw holding the cover plate and then 2 hex screws holding down the burner manifold.  Unscrew the 2 screws holding the old ignitor on the gas manifold and gently remove the gas manifold, leaving the ignitor in the oven - push its wires through to the back to help identify the proper connector.

Then from the back, unplug the ignitor, then from the front remove it.

Attach the new ignitor to the manifold with the 2 screws removed from it.  Be VERY gentle with the ignitor and do NOT touch the element!  from the oven front, position the manifold in place and thread the wires through to the back of the oven.  Neatly position the wires being careful to not damage or pinch them - replace the manifold and tighten, then the rest of the components.  From the oven rear, plug the new ignitor into its connection you unplugged earlier.  Replace the back of the range and the gas shutoff arm, and reverse the removal steps.


We had an agitator washer for a long time. The Dog Agits wore out and I replaced them so it worked ok. However my wife wanted a new one. We did some research and bought a WTW7300X about 2 1/2 years ago. BIG mistake. It's been SO frustrating that if there was such a thing as a time machine, we'd use it to go back in time and buy something else. Two weeks after we got it, the computer board failed. The first tech blamed it on the water feed hoses being clogged. He had NO clue what was wrong and left. Second tech replaced the computer board which solved the problem. We've had CONTINUAL "unbalanced load" issues so we can't run it at night because you never know if it's going to complete a cycle. I estimate 30% of the time we get a "UL" regardless of how it's loaded or what's in it. 30 days short of two years the tub bearing failed. Fortunately we'd bought it with a CC that extended the warranty for a year so the repair was ok'd by the warranty company. The repair tech said that bearing failure was a common problem but was supposed to have been fixed. Guess not. Shortly after that when we lifted the lid there was a loud "clunking" noise near the lid hinge. I determined that the lid spring assembly had come loose and had to retighten it on both sides. When I opened it up to fix the springs, the underside of the top was filled with rust. Water splashes up under the top and stays there, eventually rusting the top. Now clothes are coming out with dark stains on them. It looks like oil and I suspect that the bearing is failing again. And it's also torn some of our son's clothes. So PLEASE save yourselves a LOT of pain and frustration. Don't buy a Cabrio. April 10, 2014 Update. Last night there was rusty water on the floor under the washer. The problem I mentioned about water splashing up under the top at the bleach dispenser apparently happens continuously. There's another review here that addresses the same problem. You just don't notice it until enough water runs down the inside of the washer over time and then overflows from the frame at the bottom. Now the top left side is rusted almost all the way from front to back. There should ba a gasket on the top of the tub funnel tp prevent this from happening. Now, the paints bubbling and all the hose clamps are rusty. So you have this to look forward to if you have one of these. Whoever designed it should be FIRED. What a piece of crap.


We've had this dishwasher for just over six months. Summary: it does not work as expected for this class of appliance. GE service is not as expected.

Pros:
- very quiet
- lots of settings
- lots of space
- matches the rest of the appliances in our new kitchen

Cons:
- detergent left in the door after cycle is complete. We've had a GE tech come out three times. Tried to run hot water in the sink before turning on the dishwasher, we use the recommended detergent, and we made sure nothing's blocking the detergent from coming out. Tech said nothing's really wrong, just a 'piece of crap' dishwasher. GE won't replace it, just keeps sending more techs.
- if you have to run hot water in the sink for 5 minutes because the dishwasher doesn't heat up the water enough, then we're really not that energy and water efficient.
- dishes do not dry, even with the temperature boost. We open the door to let things air dry, and have a dishtowel section on our kitchen counter where we put things out to dry. And it's not just the normal ridges, everything's wet.
- the rinse aid seems like a scam, but we've been using it. Not sure what it does.

We are trying to get it replaced with same model, will post update if the new one works as designed.

UPDATE November 2014: we're on the third unit now, and within one week had the same problem of detergent not dissolving. As an added bonus this unit leaves marks on the bottom of our pans. It looks like the sprayers stay in one place and just pressure wash the bottom of the pans in one place, leaving a nice pattern of round marks where the coating is blown off the pan. When this unit is gone, we'll need to buy new pans. This has been going on for 13 months. We've had to run so many loads two or more times to clear out the detergent, I think we've wasted all the water and energy we can ever save over the life-time of this product.
UPDATE September 2014: the new dishwasher, same model, has the same problem. Every few loads, there's one that has detergent all over the door, and we have to run the cycle one or two more times to clear the junk out. Or wipe it with a paper towel, and then run it again without detergent just to rinse the dishes.
We also learned that a neighbor with the same model dishwasher has the same issue. We are going to see if we can replace with a different model. We'd like to keep our appliances in our kitchen with matching style, but it's so frustrating to deal with this dishwasher that we're willing to make a change. We'll get a Whirlpool or other brand and start moving our appliances away from GE.


Here is my original review, but please see the updates, below:

So my circa 1991 Viking Pro oven was taking forever to get hot, and then it didn't really get hot enough. After internet research, I determined the common cause was ignitor failure. Ordered from Home Appliance Parts and paid less than $50. Arrived in about 2 weeks. Extremely well packaged ... original Viking box triple wrapped in bubblewrap, then placed in a sturdy and size appropriate box for shipping. Kudos for wrapping.

Installation was mostly easy. (I always worry about "fits all ranges," and usually fits nothing I have.) Remove oven racks. Remove side shelves that hold oven racks. Remove bottom tray from oven. All the above simply lift out without tools. Old ignitor right there in front of me and removed with a phillips head screwdriver (two screws). Old unit and new unit, physically look 100% the same, except ... New unit has two male electrical connectors, old unit has one male and one female, as does oven. Old unit had male/female connectors spliced onto unit to adapt it to the oven, so I removed the female spliced connector from the old unit and spliced it onto the new unit. Now, new unit has one male, one female connector. Connectors slide into place. Assemble in reverse. Oven lights off instantly and immediately heats, just like it should. Took less than 15 minutes, start to finish, even with the wire splicing.

Tip: I assume that some ovens are set up to accept an ignitor with two male ends (as the ignitor was shipped), and some are probably like mine with alternate connections. Consider purchasing separately (in advance), crimp style or ceramic connectors so that when everything is torn apart, you don't have to put it back together again while you go and search out correct wire connectors for the electrical side.

UPDATE:  Amazon prices have gone way up! Although I paid less than $40 on Amazon last year, as of this writing Amazon is over $100.

UPDATE: 2/9/17. The OEM failed after less than 4 years. In the meantime, OEM prices have gone over $100, while aftermarket prices are about $17 on the big auction website, so I have replaced the OEM with aftermarket. If you choose to go with aftermarket, I have found there are two styles. One is a round, barber pole style of ignitor and the other is a flat style. When I previously bought the barber style, they were so fragile that two were broken in shipment, so I only buy the flat aftermarket style now.


<input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/E1R4YrWSemS.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91dbQOJuxQS.png" class="video-slate-img-url"> This makes ice really fast!

You can fit just over 1/2 gallon of water in the reservoir and you can have ice in as quick as 6 minutes.

The unit is very easy to operate.
- Fill it with water
- Plug it in
- Choose either small or large ice

Della sells another model DELLA Portable Electric Ice Maker Machine Yield Up To 26 Pounds of Ice Daily - Silver and I couldn't decide which one to get, so I got them both of them because in an emergency two is better than one and each one produces 26 lbs of ice per day.

A 20 lb bag of ice at Walmart is $4 and once it melts it's gone. When your ice melts in your cooler now you can cycle it back through this machine and make more ice. I'll let you do the math.

Anyway, back to the machines themselves...
They are identical in every discernible way except for the lid and the controls.

They both hold the same amount of water and ice and can hold about 1.5 pounds of ice in the little bucket that is in there.
They both have small/large ice sizes to choose from.
The units themselves are pretty much the same dimensions.

 - The standard model has the buttons on the front and a smaller viewing window.

 - This premium model has a bigger viewing window, so you can actually see inside where the magic happens and how the machine makes the ice.

At least right now, the prices on each of these is the same, so it just comes down to aesthetics and what look you prefer.

I did receive this product at a discount in exchange for my honest review.

If this review was helpful to you, please let me know by clicking yes/helpful.

Thanks,
Travis


I have a long dryer vent run through a finished ceiling space, so keeping it clean is a better option than having to open up the vent pipe.  I used this Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System with the Gardus R3203612 LintEater 12-Foot Extension Kit.  I used about 18' of the tubing to reach through my dryer vent run.

In the end I pushed out a giant lump of lint that was choking the vent and slowing my drying times.

The pieces of tubing connected together really easily.  I tightened them together with pliers and tape to make sure they stayed connected the first time.  In the future I probably won't bother with the tape.  Running the tubing and auger in clockwise direction should keep the tubing together all of the time anyway.

The ends of the tubing is about 3/8" in diameter.  If your drill chuck is exactly 3/8", it might be tricky to fit in the end.  I did my work with a Milwaukee 2410-22 M12 12-Volt 3/8-Inch Drill/Driver and it fits easily.  On its lowest power and speed settings, the Linteater was just fine augering out 18' of dryer vent.

The tubing slid in and out of the vent without a problem.

The kit comes with adapters to attach a shop vac or leaf blower to create airflow in the vent while your auger brush is loosening up the lint.  I didn't try those out at all, but it seems like a good idea.

It did the job, and I didn't have any problems with it.  I'd recommend it to others.


Finding a small 2.5 cubic foot compact refrigerator is not as easy as it sounds.  And finding one with a stainless steel-style door is even harder.  This was literally the only selection on Amazon that met those specifications.

While I had not heard of the brand before (SPT), I ordered this as replacement for my aging 2.5 cubic foot fridge.  I am mostly pleased with the purchase.  It is compact enough to fit under a desk, and is much quieter than the previous model it is replacing.  It is also substantially lighter weight, although at around 48 pounds (shipping), it isn't exactly a feather-weight either,

At this size and price point, you don't get many features.  There's no interior light (but you don't need one anyway), and the freezer compartment is very small - just big enough for a small ice cube tray.  But as a second fridge or for an office or game room, it's more likely to hold sodas, beer and snacks anyway.  However, there are three features that are an improvement over my old compact fridge:

1) Convenient Temperature Control - My old fridge had one setting - "ON".  The SPT has a dial on the inside (on the upper right corner) that allows you to select the level of cold you need.  Nice.

2)  Adjustable Feet - There are two screw-type adjustable leveling feet, so the fridge will accommodate just about any minor irregularities on your floor.

3)  Mostly Solid Back - Older models often exposed the coils, but the SPT has a mostly closed case design.  There is an opening to allow air circulation around the compressor and to access the electrical cord.

I would have given this 5 stars, but ultimately deducted 1 star for the somewhat twitchy process of reversing the door. It ships with a right-hand swing, but you can reverse that by moving the hinges to the other side.  This could have been designed a little better and takes some fiddling to get everything to fit just right.  Part of this entails removing plastic caps covering the mounting holes on the reverse side, which are tricky to pry out.  Use a small blade screwdriver and take care not to scratch the cabinet.  One of those plastic caps broke fairly easily and I feared I'd have to glue it in place.  But SPT took the added - and much appreciated - step on including an extra packet of plastic caps for just such an issue.  Well done.

In short, this SPT fills a rather specific need in a simple and relatively inexpensive fashion.  I look forward to using this little fridge for a long time.


I bought those filters for my Honeywell HCM-6009 Cool Moisture Console Humidifier. The original HW filter replacement costs 14.98$ at the time of this review (Honeywell HC-14V1 Replacement Wicking Humidifier Filter, Filter E) for one filter while this did product cost 20.99$ for x2 filters (so a 9$ saving over the cost of 2 x OEM part). How does it perform? Bottom line is that I think it is a great replacement and I do no see a difference in performance.
A few things to remember:
- before use, and because it is pressed flat, wet it and place it in the groove as designed
- once a week, flip it upside down (same recommendation for any filter - it will make the wear even)
- I recommend adding this product (Holmes Humidifier Bacteriostat, H1709PDQ-U) to the water - cheap and goes along way (I still have the bottle I purchased 2 years ago and it is far from being over). This will avoid mold forming and te only thing that will wear your filters is hard water.

The EOM filter lasted forever for me (3 months with proper care as indicated above and it made the winter/dry season). I have been using this for only 2 weeks now but will post later if there is a longevity problem (some customer did tend to indicate problems with the reinforced aluminum mesh oxidizing and/or the filter disintegrating but just like the original part, I have not seen any of this happening yet).


This range has been in use for about a month using natural gas.  Installation went smoothly because we paid particular attention to measurements provided in the online installation manual, so it fits snugly and looks great in place.  In use our range gives off a very slight odor, probably due to gas combustion.  It is easily removed by our vent fan, but something we didn't have to do with the electric range.

Moving pans around is easy enough on the 'continuous' grates.  The cast iron on this range is heavier than on some other brands we looked at, but not so heavy that you have a hard time removing it to clean the black-enameled underpan, especially when compared to the smooth schott-ceram surface on our former electric range.  We like the different burner BTU ratings and use the burners accordingly, with good control over the heat level.  The controls are easy to read and set.

Using the oven features is not 100% intuitive so we found a little time spent with the owner's manual helped us use it better.
For example using the Preheat feature means the oven is up to temperature in just a few minutes.  Compared to our former electric oven it cooks at about a 25 degree lower setting.  We haven't used the convection feature, clean or broil yet so I can't comment on those.

Anytime the oven is in use a fan blows room temperature air out the front beneath the control panel.  My guess is that this keeps the electronics in the control panel cool.  It is a noticeable amount of air, but we don't find the sound bothersome, as some have reported.  It continues for some time after the oven is turned off.

The lowest oven shelf is attached to the door so that when the door is opened, anything on that shelf is pulled forward and easily accessed to, for example, check a cake for doneness or baste a ham.  However, when we were baking sweet potatoes some gooey juice dripped down onto the oven floor and this shelf connection made it more difficult to clean up.  We have used the split rack feature for roasting turkey and found it easy to remove and replace the section.  The oven window is very large, and there are two bright lamps inside.

We were surprised that it did not include a broiler pan, something we felt should come with an appliance in this price range.  It does have a removable wire rack "shelf" for the warming drawer, effectively doubling the amount of some foods you can keep warm, rolls for example.

We like the look as well as the performance and overall quality of this range.  It has exceeded our expectations and is a huge improvement over our electric range.


Two years after purchasing Bosch's "stainless" steel "rust-free" dishwasher with a "lifetime warranty" against rust, we discovered... rust. It was in a very specific area, where the metal filter attaches to the interior tub. We called Bosch and were told that it was our fault, that it was our water, our dishwasher soap, our flatware--anything but the dishwasher. We persisted, explaining that we use a water softener and a reverse-osmosis system and that our water is no worse, and probably a bit better, than average. Furthermore, if it was merely our water, then we would expect to see rust everywhere. As for our dishwasher soap--well--it comes from Costco, and I'm sure they'd take exception to Bosch's claim that it promotes rust. We offered our own theory, which is that the metal used in the filter is disimilar to the metal in the tub, resulting in a galvanic reaction and corrosion to the metals. Basically, the two different metals, pressed together in an aqueous environment, results in a battery. But for Bosch to admit this would be to admit a design flaw--the sort of admission that leads to a class-action lawsuit. We already know Bosch uses a variety of "stainless" metals. For example, the metal used on the door is a very inferior grade of stainless steel that is easily streaked and spotted. And the way you can tell is to use a magnet. If the magnet sticks then it's ferrous metal and more prone to staining.

This section is taken right out of the manual: "Stainless Steel TallTub: A rust-free, hygienic interior surface with a lifetime warranty."

Yet Bosch claims they don't actually guarantee the tub to be rust-free; they only warrant against "rust-through", meaning you will have to live with the rust until it eats a hole through the metal--until water starts pouring into some part of the dishwasher where it doesn't belong (hopefully not endangering you, your family, or your home, in the process). When you consider that Bosch basically expects you to use their rusting appliance until there's a catastrophic failure, you realize that the advertisements, selling points, and sales pitches regarding "rust-free" and "lifetime warranty" are all fraudulent.

Bosch offered no remedies and suggested that the rust can be removed (on our dime, of course). The problem is that even if we use a rust-removing product, the rust will return in time, because the source of the rust--a design flaw--remains.


First of all, I would like to congratulate the seller for sending this item in such a timely fashion.  It arrived very quickly and what is more, it was extremely easy to carry home from work. After traveling on public transportation, I have to walk about a half a mile and though the package was slightly cumbersome, I never found it to be heavy.

For my first pic, I unpacked the contents of the package.  There you will see 13 tubes, 6 fixing bars, 2 dryer racks, 4 running wheels, 1 unit holder, 1 dryer unit, and 1 cloth cover, along with an instruction manual. There are no extra tools required, which, in my humble opinion, is amazing!  It is quite a simple project, even for people who are not very handy (like myself)!  Even with my lack of skill, lack of familiarity with the dryer unit, and rookie mistakes, it took me less than 40 minutes to assemble.

In my second pic, you will see the assembled unit.  It is slightly over 58 inches in height (as shown in my third pic), a little over 27 inches in length (as shown in my fourth pic), and quite close to 18 inches in depth (as shown in my fifth pic).

My sixth pic shows the control knob on the face of the dryer.  As you can see, it features a timer which offers up to 180 minutes of drying time.  My seventh pic shows the unit, complete with cover.  The drying vent fits through a circular hole in the bottom of the cover, and there are 12 venting holes on the top.

For my test load, I washed and dried 3 cable knit sweaters and 3 summer dresses (as shown in my eighth pic).  I am happy to say that the dresses were pretty much dry in half an hours time.  They were still slightly damp at the hemline because, though they are not long enough to touch the bottom of the unit cover, the hemlines still were not high enough to fully benefit from the heat which rises to the top of the unit and is dispersed through the upper vents.

The sweaters were in the unit for 1 1/2 hours, but still emerged slightly damp.  I noticed that the sweaters were damper on one side than on the other.  I therefore recommend that you rotate the hangers every half hour or so to encourage consistent drying of your clothing.

My conclusion is that this dryer definitely works, although it is much more efficient when used on short, light weight clothing.  I recommend it to anyone who has space in their home to keep it.

Disclosure:  I purchased this item at a discounted rate in exchange for an honest and unbiased review.


Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.

So enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.

1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.
2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.
3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.
4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).
5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.
6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.


I bought this NewAir AI-100R portable Ice Maker in March 2011 as a birthday gift to my husband. He likes to drink an ice water or ice with juice all the time.
At the very first couple times of using that icemaker, I had to spill the newly made ice cylinders, because they smelled like plastic, but after that we did not have any problem with the taste of the ice. In 1 month after I bought the ices maker, we had some important family event and had to have a constant flow of the people in the apartment. For a week we had about 60-80 visiting people per day. For all that time my new Ice maker was working and making ice non-stop from 7:00 AM till 11:00 PM.  I was really glad that I was able to make enough ice for all our visitors and was proud to demonstrate them my new ice maker.  And I think that I saved so much money by making my own ice instead of buying it at the supermarket!
Ice maker was working fine every time I need some ice since I bought it (for 9 months already).
If you have guests, you just have to start making ice in advance and store fresh ice in the freezer. I use clean plastic bags to store fresh ice.  If you are expecting a large group of people, it is better to start making ice a day before the event to store enough.  Ice maker makes some noise, but it is mild and does not bother anyone.
 The freshly made ice is wet, and it sticks to each other at the freezer. I have a habit to stir ice cubes in the plastic bag to separate them from each other after it was sitting in the freezer for 15-20 min.
  At the hot summer time, when you start ice maker after it was off for certain amount of time, the 1st portion of the ice cylinders will be very wet, thin and flimsy and it is better to dump it back to the water tank. After that there is no problem.
  Minor inconvenience is that even though machine has a red light on to indicate that there is no more water at the water tank, there are always some water left at the water tank. I always must spill out unused water.  The removal of the water is done by the little pipe at the bottom of the ice maker that has covered by a metal cap (attached to the machine) and a little tiny plastic plug (unattached to anything and very easy to drop). If you will loose that tiny plug, then you will have a big problem. Better to be careful and do not drop and loose it.
  We love our ice maker and its red color adds a cheerful atmosphere to my kitchen.


Fantastic! This puts out more moisture than the Honeywell one that shipped with my humidifier EVER did!
The lowest the water level in the tank ever got down previously was 1/2 full,  running at full speed for a couple of hours before bed (I then reduce the speed down by one click while we are asleep) So 8 hours and it used half a tank.
Lately after a few months of use (ok, five)  the level was hardly going down at all (I didn't know you were supposed to switch the filter out so regularly, because at a cursory glance mine looked fine)
So I decided to buy a new filter (confession time now)  YUK! YUK! YUK! when I went to switch the filter out and looked closely at the old filter I discovered some white webs of mould. I am so grossed out! I will switch these filters out very regularly now and add the tank cleaner also. I am so disgusted in myself for not paying more attention, and I haven't quite recovered yet! I keep thinking about all those mould spores in the air.
So if you are new to humidifiers like I was, keep a close eye on your filter, cause the white webs are actually hard to see unless you look closely (shudder)
Anyhow, I have used this new filter for two nights now and both nights the water level was actually down to almost empty (maybe a couple of cups left in the bottom if that)
Only thing is that it might be TOO much humidity, as the carpet around the humidifier is damp now. I have it on the floor near the bed. I wouldn't put this on, or too close to wooden furniture! I am going to need to put something under the humdifier (its probably better to get it off the floor anyhow)
 But I like that I can adjust it down so it's even quieter than ever, while it's pushing out more moisture than ever!
A note on the review who mentioned the metal - this filter looks exactly like the photo. No metal! I think he/she reviewed the wrong item. Or maybe another seller shipped the wrong item. Anyhow, this filter is much thicker than the original but other than that, it looks the same.
New filter, tank cleaner and more diligence, my humidifier is now working better than it ever did.
Oh, and I purchased the Honeywell replacement wick (non-third party) to compare. It hasn't arrived yet but I WILL compare the two and review that one too.


Where to start let's see... I am only writing this to prevent people from the headaches I had to deal with. I purchased this freezer because it was supposed to be commercial grade, but this freezer does not even stand up to regular residential use. The first one I purchased last year and about 2 months into using it, the freezer started to make a loud rattling sound part way into the motor running. It sounded like someone was using an industrial compressor next door to us. I called the manufacturer for help and was given some names of repair men; I called a few but only had 1 response. When he finally came to look at the freezer, it was not making the sound at that point so he made some "fan adjustments" and told me to call him if it kept doing it. 20 min after he left it started again, so I called him and he never returned my call nor came back. Frustrated with the situation I called costco explained what happened and they picked up the faulty freezer and I purchased a second freezer thinking it was just a fluke; however last Friday I ran into another problem. I came home from work that night to hear the freezer making 2 funny clicking sounds every 10 min or so, similar to the sound it makes when going into auto defrost. I opened the freezer and found the temp sitting around 28, way above 0. I was livid; I cranked up the freezer to 10 to see if it would make a difference. I checked about an hour later and there was no difference, the freezer was not getting colder, only the fan was running. It was now 10:30pm and had no choice but to try and save whatever was salvageable from the freezer. I stuck what I could in my little freezer and tried calling 3 other people to see what space they had. I ran around till 1am putting things into friends freezers, but still lost around 500$ in product. The one shocker I found when I was emptying out the freezer was a melted plastic lid to a glass jar I had on the top shelf of the freezer up against the stainless steel plate. How does something melt in the freezer is my question. Third time will not be a charm; I will be looking for another make all together. I later tried to contact Electrolux/Frigidaire to let them know about the faulty products and this was their response, and by the way their warranty gets them out of covering anything:
"Thank you for contacting Electrolux Appliances.
We have sent you the manual explaining what the warranty does not cover. Please find it attached and kindly read page 11. If your unit is not yet fixed, please contact under warranty the following servicer to fixe it: Transglobal 1-800-360-2742.
Once more thank you for contacting Electrolux Appliances.


I bought my Neptune in 2001. In 2007 it refused to execute the spin cycle and go any further.
A little web searching showed many people having had the same problem with these earlier generation Neptunes. One link took me to an auction listing. Apparently, this problem is so prevalent that a kit to remedy this break-down is widely sold.

As I rememba: The kit I bought supplied the wax motor and a few resistors, or something. The wax motor is a solenoid type switch that locks the door before the spin cycle. A safety thing, so your brat kid don't open the door and throw in Putty-Tat as the drum is turning a hundred miles per hour. When the wax motor blows, it may take a few circuit board elements with it.
I suppose an unscrupulous repairman can charge you for a brand new control board, but just replace the blown resistors on your old board.
I suppose an ethical repairman would explain your options, along with the risks, and allow you to choose the plan of attack. Maybe new parts is the best choice if you are paying him big bucks for his labor.

As for me, I bought the parts and did the work myself. It cost me less than $40 to get us back on the wash. After reading an online repair estimate, paying someone to fix it wasn't an option. I didn't think the washer had much more life to it. Also, at that time I was gainfully employed and I would have purchased a brand new washer than risk throwing good money after bad.

If you own an old Neptune, you'd be smart to replace the wax motor before it goes bad and blows parts on your control board.
If your washer has stopped working, check the control board for burnt stuff. Don't replace only those resistors. Also replace the wax motor before turning on the washer again because a bad wax motor will kill the new resistors, just like it killed the old ones.

It's now July, 2012 in this 2-people household and my Neptune keeps on spinning.

Update 5-2016: Mr. Neptune is still making soup. Though, the washer's hot water supply hasn't worked in years. I haven't investigated. We just wash everything with cold. The wifey is chomping at the bit for this washer to explode so she can go buy something frivolous in crimson red with a built-in TV set.


I was SO excited to receive this little thing. We live in a very small apartment and were spending a lot of money at the laundromat, considering the costs of washing, drying, time, and commuting (the only useable laundromat was about 15-20 minutes a day). We were spending approximately 45.00 a week on the laundromat, all told. I ordered this model after reading reviews and looking up reviews on YouTube so I could see exactly how it worked.
Used the machine immediately upon arrival (it arrived very quickly...about 4 business days). The first few washes did create a "plastic" smell but this odor did not bleed into the clothes. I think it was the same as breaking in a new coffee machine. After several washes now, the smell is gone. I did find it easier to put it in a stationary location, on top of a shelf bought specifically to accommodate the gravity draining system. This works best for me and I use a bucket to fill and empty it. Usually two buckets full does it, but sometimes 2 1/2. I have it just outside my bathroom so this is very simple and easier for me. Don't have to move the machine and having it elevated is much easier.
I am giving it four stars only because of a couple concerns. When I contacted the manufacturer about my worries over the lint filter, I got a response within minutes and they asked for my name, order number, date ordered, etc. When I responded with the information, they responded immediately with a photo of the lint filter to make sure they had the right one. I sent a simple "Yep! That's it!" and immediately was informed I would be receiving a spare to be shipped out the next day. A follow-up email was sent the next day, letting me know they were sending TWO extra filters. No charge. Make sure you register.
I also highly recommend buying the mesh laundry bags (various sizes). I've washed a full queen sheet set: top & bottom sheets, 2 pillow cases and 2 pillow shams. Discovered the fitted sheet will "catch" other items in the elastic corners so this would be an example of when I'd use a mesh bag.

Pros:
Very light weight
Extremely powerful wash cycle
Very effective spin cycle
Great price
perfect for small apartment
EXCEPTIONAL Customer support.

Cons:
No delicate or variable speed wash
Probable fading of clothing (that's how powerful the wash cycle is)
A bit chintzy lint filter that began to flake after just a few washes
Hoses are thin and need to be handled carefully
Have to watch out for lint.


We made this unfortunate purchase 14 months ago, after searching through the Consumer Reports ratings and evaluations.  They (CR) gave this dishwasher rave reviews for function, quietness, reliability and energy conservation. They downplayed the smaller interior as "insignificantly smaller".  That all sounded good, so in spite of the grotesque price, we figured that it would amortize over a longer life, and heck, who doesn't want to save energy when it is feasible.

The ONLY positive thing I can say about this POC is that it IS quiet.

The interior layout is so goofy that it is virtually impossible to put a reasonable load of dishes into the baskets. The idiot that designed the interior must have been using doll-house dishes for sizing.  It took two runs to process the same load of dishes that my previous Whirlpool would wash (CLEAN) and dry (DRY and SPOTLESS) in a single run.  And it required 134 minutes to process one load.

And you have to keep feeding it this expensive Jet Dry rinse agent, or else you get a soapy film on the dishes, complete with a soapy taste as well.  And the dishes are NEVER dry when the cycle is done.

There are options for shorter cycles. Because we pre-rinse our dishes, the short wash cycle got the dishes adequately clean (but not as clean as the longer cycle). The problem is that at the end of the short cycle, the dishes are soaking wet, and if you let them dry in the dishwasher by evaporation, they end up horribly spotted.

The alleged "automatic cleanliness detector" detected NOTHING; there was no difference. The "detector" cycle also ran the full 134 minutes. And all of that in spite of the fact that I have the hot water which feeds the dishwasher set at 150.

So I wish some energy wizard would explain to me how it is saving energy to require twice as many cycles, each of which is longer than my Whirlpool, to do a given load of dishes and cookware, and not do them as well as the Whirlpool, with the additional requirement of frequently adding some energy-intensive chemical to the machine.

Based on the horrible experiences other owners have reported with respect to Bosch warranty support and repair service, I can say I am very thankful that this thing managed not to break in the 14 months we used it.

Bottom line, I hated the machine to the point I just would not use it often, and when my wife asked me PLEASE, for Christmas, PLEASE get rid of this thing, I understood and sympathized completely. So Dec. 23, while she was out shopping for Christmas dinner prep, I tore out this eurocrap tragedy and installed a new Whirlpool, which although it is NOT as quiet, it does its job remarkably well, and at roughly half the price.

Suffice it to say that she was EXTREMELY pleased.


I religiously clean out my dryer's lint trap between loads, but a few weeks ago my old Kenmore dryer suddenly decided to take a leisurely approach to clothes drying, taking almost 3 hours for one load. I took apart my machine and suctioned out every lint ball I could find with my vacuum, then cleaned out the hose and vent as far as my vacuum could reach, but it still refused to cooperate. I figured there had to be a blockage somewhere in the vent and decided to get the LintEater based on the reviews. And I'm so glad I did.

My vent is probably around 15-18 feet from dryer to the outside of my house, but I opted not to buy the extension kit because a) I was hoping that the blockage was within the LintEater's 12-foot reach, and b) I didn't want to spend the extra money if this thing didn't work.

On my first attempt, I attached the brush to one rod and secured it with electrical tape (I read other reviews about the rods breaking or disconnecting in the vent, so I made sure to take precautions). After snaking it through the vent, I pulled it back and couldn't believe how much lint came out - almost a pillowcase full. I added two more rods (secured with more electrical tape), went back in, and felt a little resistance. When I pulled back again, tons of lint and pieces of a birds nest fell out - thank god there were no birds or eggs inside. Still no air flow though. I wound up working the vent from both sides, with all four rods, then connected my dryer again, but still no air flow. So, with the dryer running, I went back outside and tried again. This time when I pulled all four rods out, I was blasted with an explosion of lint confetti. And even though I was cloaked in a dust cloud, I couldn't have been happier. My dryer is now back to its 30-45 minute drying speed.

TIPS:
- Electrical tape works wonders in ensuring that things don't detach inside your vent
- Don't attach more than two rods together BEFORE snaking them into the vent - attach additional rods to ones that are already in the vent
- If you have a longer vent but are on the fence about the extenders, try working the LintEater through both sides of your vent - it might take a little longer, but it worked for me
- If you have a cordless drill with a lower torque rating (like mine), your drill may struggle a bit when cleaning with four rods attached, ultimately leading to the battery draining and you having to pick up where you left off the next day (like me - it's all good though!)


If you are used to the usual under $100 hoods, the first thing you realize right out of the box, is that this is a different beast. For one, it is really heavy! It looks and feels well built. As for its main purpose, it delivers rather well, especially considering that it was installed on an existing 6 inch vent instead of the recommended 8 inch. I've had it for about a month and apart from when I had my restaurant, I've never had a hood that worked this well.
Now for the gritty part. You are not going to be able to install this on an IKEA kitchen... unless you are a very talented handy person. Since you need to cut such a big hole in the bottom of the cabinet, it totally compromises the integrity of an IKEA cabinet as you have to remove the fasteners holding the cabinet together. I find it amazing that Xtreme Air does not take in account the number of people who have IKEA kitchens today. The installation was a nightmare and I had to totally modify my IKEA cabinet, shortening it, reinforcing it and find creative ways to fasten the hood. I also had to shorten the doors and opted to buy stainless steel doors that matched the hood and other appliances in the kitchen.
Xtreme Air suggests mounting the front of the hood with screws and resting on the bottom of the cabinet. Well since I had to make a huge hole in that bottom part, what was left was a thin piece of particle board that could never hold the hood in place without breaking, even though I doubled it. So I used a combination of supplied and different brackets to attach the hood to the vertical left and right sides of the cabinet. The back is suposed to be fastened to the wall but that will only work properly if the studs are perfectly positioned with the mounting holes in the hood. Which they weren't... So, in modifying my cabinet, I had to add a solid plank of wood to the back. I was able to bolt the middle part of the solid wood to a stud and in turn, the hood is bolted to the solid wood and into the wall.
Last and maybe least, the color of the LEDs is horrendous! It's that cold, not bright enough LED color spectrum of early LEDs. It looks like Xtreme Air got a good deal on a bunch of these old LEDs and they are using those until they run out. If that is the case, it really cheapens Xtreme Air's image.
So, after a month or so, and now that it is mounted (and still holding), I am still happy with it. But if I had to do it again, I would get a different Xtreme Air model that does not force me to cut the bottom of my cabinet out.


Ok, First of all, like a couple of the other RECENT reviewers have said, disregard the old reviews. The reviews prior to 2010 need to be taken down because this is NOT the same product.

This thing arrived in a box in a box, 100lbs. Shipping took about 4 days. My groomsman bought me this off my wedding registry so I was astounded when I got it. Everything comes packed nice.

PROS-
IT SERVES ICE COLD BEER
Directions very easy to follow and put together.
Fits 2 5.5 gal kegs (if you want to convert into dual tap) and the normal 13gal kegs just fine.
Comes with a 2.5lb tank. I had a spare 5 gal tank and it fits in there with both kegs also just fine.
Drip tray, tower and door are very solid (the door is swappable to left to right also)
The tap handle is very stout and springy, which is good when my gigantic milled aluminum handle does not feel like its going to break it.

CONS-
It does not cook bacon
The regulator is very finiky, the pressure on it goes from 0-150 which its like a 1/150th of a turn to move it a couple PSI up. I keep the keg right around 10lbs to keep the foam down, pours a little slow... but perfect head.
As others have said, it comes with a gaggle of spare parts, which is cool if it breaks something ever, but kind of confusing at first.

TIPS-
The tower does not say to install the rubber washer which leaves the tower a little loose but it does come with one. It was VERY hard to get on, I took some silicon spray and wet both sides of the washer to get it loose and was able to push down hard enough on the tower to get it to set. Now its stout and keeps cold air in.
I leave the temperature dial at about 3/4 which puts my beer right at 34 degrees. I had it set to 32 degrees which the dial was almost all the way up and it froze the beer line to the tower.

For the price of this thing, you cannot go wrong, Im exited to try to get it converted to hold 2 5.5 gal kegs and have a couple of different brews. I will post back when I do!


This review also appears attached to the related, green package "Silent Feet - Anti-Vibration Pads for Washing Machines and Dryers" (not "Anti-Walk"), as a 5-star review, and as a Comment in response to reviews by ...
  "J. Littrell" ... "Timothy M. Watson 'TimW'" ... "Milton R. Wolf" ... "samgabecassie".

Full links to important Consumer Reports (CR) video information appears in those Comments. Here, because Amazon apparently does not allow links to appear in reviews, I indicate how the CR video Links to can be accessed by way of google search:

Per information on Consumer Reports, the first guard against vibration is the purchase of a washing machine that has built in vibrational dampening that is effective.

[ Video Link deleted by Amazon. Google: " laundry--cleaning/stopping-vibrating ", and go to first hit, from Consumer Reports, and see the video, etc. ]

It is likely that the many 4-5 star reviews versus the set of 1 star reviews here at Amazon indicate that the Silent Feet product works reasonably well with many models, across a range of lessor vibration issues -- but cannot effectively mitigate vibration in the cases of the worst designed machines. (If some of the Amazon reviews are accurate, the product may indeed worsen the effect in some unfortunate cases.)

This "works for some, not for others" is a reasonable, technically grounded explanation of the data, and also explains why Consumer Reports (CR) data does not align with Amazon reviewer experience.

Amazon reviewers are testing a range of different machines with different degrees of vibration, while CR apparently only tested the single worst vibrating washing machine in its test of Silent Feet and related products.

[ Video Link deleted by Amazon. Google: " Inside Consumer Reports Test Labs: Reviewing antivibration pads ", and go to first hit, from Consumer Reports, and see the video, etc. ]

Kudos/cheers to Vibration Solutions LLC (producer of the Silent Feet product) for offering refunds in the cases where their products are not effective.

I would be a more solid fan if they also offered full web links to all of the CR information on their tests (and not just the positive seeming), and if they would perform their own accelerometer tests, like CR, on a series of at least 3-5 washers with unbalanced loads, on a mock standard subfloor-and-joist station (worst case, like a 2nd floor condo installation) .

That is, for highest consumer regard, Vibration Solution LLC (Silent Feet mfr.) needs to offer their own study and analysis (indicating the models for which their products don't work), or at very least fully report the CR analysis available, even though seemingly negative, along with explanation of the sort I offer here.

Prof D, product owner


Let me say a few words about this awesome product...

I purchased this since my dryer was no longer drying to the degree that it once was. We had our heating element go out on our brand new dryer after about 2 years of usage and we initially attributed that to a fluke lemon heating element. No big deal. Then when the new element went in, we thought that it was much weaker than our old one even though it was the same thing. Our clothes would get hot, but not really ever dry.

We have dogs, so there is a lot of lint and dog hair that ends up in our lint trap or passing through the exhaust. I bought this product because I had a suspicion that we had a buildup...and boy was I right!

The instructions first tell you to check the outside vent for blockages. The way that these vents should work (or the way mine works at least) is that there is a flap that opens when the dryer blows and shuts when the dryer shuts. That part worked fine for me, but there was a metal grate in front of the exhaust that had a good couple of inches of solid buildup. One side of the clog was even starting to darken as if it was toasting. The instructions in this manual say to remove this grate and I did.

Now I could have stopped there and my dryer would have probably still worked 100% better than before, but I continued with the instructions. My exhaust is on my roof and my roof is steep, so I decided to run the rods from the inside. The first thing to do is prop the exhaust flap open. Done. I then used the shop vac attachment and ran the rod through the small hole on the attachment. With the vac on, I added the poles until I reached the top of the vent. First I will say that the flexibility of the poles is perfect. They are sturdy enough to no collapse, but flexible enough to round corners and move pretty easily through the duct. My duct has an immediate 90 degree turn towards the roof and it handled it without issue.

When it was all said and done, my shop vac was halfway full of lint! This is in a 4 year old house! As a caveat, there is no telling how long the grate was blocking the airflow and I would guess that caused a lot of buildup further down the duct.

I even used the smaller, long brush on the inside of the lint catcher in the front of the dryer and pulled up quite a bit of lint there. I was really quit impressed! I washed the guest bed sheets and they came out dry without any extra runs! This thing should pay off from the saved electricity pretty quickly, plus I can use it over and over again and loan to friends.

I was so shocked by how much lint came out, I had my neighbor come over and check it out! Guess who has this kit at his house right now?


Wow.  I wish I read these reviews before I wasted my money and effort on this thing.  I cook a lot but live in a small place.  This replaced a 20 inch range that was about 50 years old and still going strong but some support parts had rusted out and we couldn't find replacements which was causing structural problems in the stove.  This looked nice when it arrived.  Then the problems began.  None of the coils were attached quite right so sometimes burners wouldn't work, but then the next moment they would, often causing late meals; a campfire would have been more dependable.  My husband tightened the burners.  Sometimes that helped.  Then after 10 months the bake element broke.  We called the appliance shop we got this from and they tried to order a new one.  Avanti's policy is that a repairman has to look at it before they'll send a replacement part.  Waited a few days for the repairman and he confirmed what we already knew and ordered the new part saying it would be in in a week, but usually sooner.  (Did I mention I bake a lot, like 2 or 3 times a day?  And I don't own and won't use a microwave.)  So TWO weeks later the appliance store receives the part- I had called several times to make sure they hadn't forgotten me, but Avanti really didn't care to spend the money to make anything arrive sooner.  In the end I was without my oven for 3 weeks.  My kids were REALLY sick of fried food since that was the only way I could cook.  Moments after the new bake element was installed the light in the oven went out.  My husband tried to replace it.  It broke as he removed it.  With a little more effort he got it out.  It's some obscure light bulb that he couldn't identify.  That was also under warranty, but I'm yet to receive the new one.  Oh, and the enamel is chipping too...I've NEVER chipped a range before!  Thankfully, in the meantime I've found the replacement parts for my old stove.  When this dies, likely soon, I'm put my vintage stove back in place.  Also, I was in the market for a new stove for our new home we're building.  Found a beautiful vintage one on Craigslist cheap, works well, kept it out of the dump and didn't promote further filling the landfill with junk like this.  Do I really have to give it one star??!!


<input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1IW1ktmhNS.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81MeA1A-2kS.png" class="video-slate-img-url"> All I can say is ....WOW!! I wish I had done this sooner. After exhausting but fun research, scouring the internet learning about induction, I finally pulled the trigger. I cannot tell you how pleased I am, ESPECIALLY with the clean up. My old gas cook top was black and was such a chore to clean up. My new induction top wipes off effortlessly because the top itself does not get hot, therefore spill overs do not bake on. The top does get hot eventually directly under the pan because it has a hot pan sitting on it.
Now for something different than the other reviews. My home was wired with a 30 amp circuit to the cook top and research will say that you will need 40 amps. This particular top will only let you have two burners on "Boost" at the same time. To max out the rated amperage you must have all the burners on high at the same time. When you see how hot and fast that really is... I SERIOUSLY doubt you will ever need that. Induction is so efficient, that most of our cooking is done on #3 to #5. The scale is 1-10. The higher settings are for frying and boiling. I don't have the need to have 4 skillets frying or 4 pots of water boiling at the same time and I don't think I ever will. Anyway.... before considering calling the electrician, I decided to try it awhile first and see if we trip the breaker. If we do, and it becomes a problem, then we can deal with increasing the wire size and changing the breaker to a 40 amp. So far we have NEVER tripped any breakers and the top works absolutely flawless. DO NOT let the fact that you have a 30 amp service steer you away from considering an induction top. I suggest trying it first, THEN see if you need to increase your breaker size.


small part of a long story but ultimately successful repair.... washer was knocking during spin, and like most people I thought it was the bearings. I ordered all 3 parts and replaced them even though they looked fine... but it was the stem of the spider that was rusted at the base and needed replacing. I ordered this part, which would have fit perfectly, except that the screws holding the old spider in the drum would spin but not back out. Just too much gunk in the screw holes - could not unscrew or pull them out. So had to order the entire inner drum (found for <200 elsewhere), which included the spider already on.

What I wish I knew before I took 10 hours to repair the washer, from start to finish, including time cleaning, and not including the time waiting for parts to be delivered:
1. order bearings, all 3 parts - about 60
2. order spider - about 60 (may as well, and hope that it comes out) OR EVEN BETTER order inner drum with spider LG Electronics 3045ER1006E Washing Machine Inner Tub Drum Assembly
3. order seal gasket between the two outer halves - about 10 LG Electronics 4036ER4001B Washing Machine Tub Seal/Gasket
4. order rubber gasket - about 50 (was black and disgusting anyway, and yours probably is, too) - make sure you check the bottom to see if you have the one with the drain or without the drain, mine did not LG Electronics 4986ER0004G Washing Machine Door Bo


I purchased this kit and a 12' extension kit to clean the 21' from my dryer in the middle of my house to the outside vent. I had been avoiding using it, but the first day of fall begged for a project so yesterday I finally did it.  The results were as expected. The dryer vent system is now clean and the airflow from the dryer to the outside is at least 50% better.

Some tips to using this product:

 Watch a couple of YouTube videos for 'LintEater' before you start.  It will give you a visual that the written directions just cannot.
 Read the written directions and then re-read them. You may have to make adjustments to the setup you use based upon your particular dryer and vent system.
 Use a leaf blower on the highest setting before you use the LintEater.  Blow from the pipe opening nearest the dryer to the outside by sticking the leaf blower inside the pipe and turning it on.  You'll be amazed by how much stuff flies out of the vent even before you use the LintEater product. Sort of a 'pre-clean' if you will.
 Gather the tools you'll need first.  For me that included a Phillips head screwdriver (to release the hose clamps on the dryer and vent pipe), leaf blower, two wrenches (to twist the two ends of the LintEater sticks together tightly), duct tape, a flashlight, and a shop vac.  Eye protection and a mask or bandana to cover your nose and mouth is also a good idea.
 Use small strips of duct tape around the connections between the sections of the LintEater. This will help prevent it from coming apart IN the pipe.
 Use your power drill on the lowest setting and go slowly, gently working it down the length of the pipe with short back n' forth motions.
 Always have your drill turning clockwise.  NEVER reverse it go to counterclockwise - even when pulling it out of the pipe.  This could cause the sections to come undone inside the pipe.
 Blow out the pipe with the leaf blower after using the LintEater to get fine particles out.
 When you are done, attach a clean dryer vent hose from your dryer to the outlet. Use your dryer's 'air' setting for a few minutes to continue to dislodge debris.

NOTE: This product could also be used for the gutter downspout on your home.

Overall, I'm very pleased with this product. If used properly it has the potential to be used for several years without the need for replacement. The product is high quality and easy to use.  Definitely a must-buy for home owners to prevent dryer fires.


I have owned this dishwasher for 1 year this month and I despise it.  My 15 year old dishwasher was so noisy we couldn't run it while we were in the room but it did a good job of cleaning the dishes even if they hadn't been pre-rinsed.  We looked at many dishwashers and this one came highly recommended by the salesman and the sound rating was impressive.  That's where the positive part ends.  It is very quiet and I like that.  BUT in the year I've had it the control panel, light panel, and left side top shelf roller assembly have all had to be replaced.  We have not misused the machine and our children are all grown and out of the house so we can't even blame "the kids."

Some of the other negatives are as follows:

The racks are fine if all you have to load are plates and glasses or cups.  Serving bowls, small bowls, serving spoons, or odd shaped items do not fit well making loading a challenge.  The large grid spaces in the rack design allows the water spray to move items part way through the cycle and cause them to slip through the spaces and stop the spinning sprayer from turning.  Even when nothing is in the way, the dishes have to be pre-washed before loading to insure a clean wash.

The control panel is hard to read (black controls on black background) and is so sensitive just brushing against it may start a cycle or cancel and drain when it is washing.

If money was no object this dishwasher would be at the recycler with my old Maytag.  Since I can't afford to replace it now I am resigned to suffer in silence with this quiet beast!  I'd gladly take some noise over the frustration I have had with this "quiet" Kitchenaid.

  February 2013 update...  Dishwasher is 2 years old now.

Repair man was out again.  This time the sprayer below the top shelf was hitting it's mounting and would stop turning.  The dishes directly above the stopped sprayer were the only ones on that shelf getting washed.  The right side top shelf roller assembly broke and had to be replaced.

I generally don't buy extended warranties but as the 1 yr factory warranty was running out, and because of the first year's history I purchased an extended warranty for 1 year.  I'm so glad I did.  This year I extended the warranty by 1 more year.  Maybe when it's time has run out I can justify buying another dishwasher.


Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.

So enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.

1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.
2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.
3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.
4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).
5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.
6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.


I've read the other reviews on this unit, and I still picked one up. This isn't a book/batteries/small retail, and when buying it from Amazon, you should really be present at delivery to insure no damage befell your unit in shipping. I was home when this came, and I looked over the box before I let the UPS driver go. It came double boxed with quite a bit of foam and cardboard protecting the fridge, then more cardboard protecting the tower/bottle/regulator/etc inside. After attaching the casters and fully assembling the unit, I waited the recommended 8 hours (really, I waited overnight) before plugging it in. I let it run for another night to be sure it was cooling properly, and then - after I decided everything was fine, I filled the CO2 bottle and purchased my keg. Don't omit this series of steps. If you want a working kegorator, pay attention to the instructions that come with it. It's pretty simple.

***UPDATE***

More than a year later, this kegorator is still going strong. I did have to replace the gas bottle it came with on the 2nd fill, which was pretty disappointing, but with that exception it's still working perfectly.

***UPDATE 3/15/14***

This little Kegorator is still plugging right along. It's survived 2 moves, countless re-jiggerings (ball lock, Sankey D, U-International) multiple faucets (stout, perlick, standard) and 2 gas systems (nitro and co2) I've moved on, but this little guy will be finding himself a new home, still running as well as the day he came to mine.  Officially he can fit a 1/2bbl of most of the major brands (no banded kegs), he can also fit some of the weird euro stuff (Guinness is always a favorite) or he can fit 2 5-gallon cornies or torpedo kegs (1/6bbl commercial).

Things to watch for - The tower likes to loosen up after a bit of time and has a bit of side to side play while pouring. This was pretty easily fixed with a sheet of rubber gasket material, cutting a washer to tighten up the fit.

***UPDATE: 2/22/17***

This kegerator has found a new home, and is still dutifully cooling and serving beer.


I just got this washer.  I bought it for camping and boating, but since it arrived today I had to try it.  I decided to do a comparison.  I loaded my regular washer with my sons clothes (2 jeans size 34x34, 4 large t-shirts, 4 underwear, 1 pair of basketball shorts, and 4 pair of socks)  I chose a regular wash cycle which is typically 59 minutes start to finish.  In the panda I washed my clothes ( 2 jeans - size 14, 3 t-shirts size large, 4 underwear, 4 socks).  My regular washer I loaded everything and hit start.  The Panda, I filled part way with water using a bucket because I had the drain going out the backdoor so it wouldn't make a mess in my kitchen or bathroom.  The drain hose didn't sit nicely on the ledge of either sink or tub.  After adding water I added detergent, my clothes, and two more buckets of water and began a 9 minute wash cycle.  I quickly learned that jeans get twisted up and then don't spin, luckily I had one sweater bag and pulled a pair out and placed them in a mesh bag and then back into washer.  I still had to monitor the other pair, recommend putting long pants in a bag.  After 9 minutes, I drained the water and refilled with clean water, 4 buckets again and another 9 minute wash/ rinse cycle.  After this drain I pulled out 1 pair of pants and put them into the "dryer" for 4 minutes, then repeated for the other pants, I then put two shirts in and then 1 shirt and 4 underwear, and then all my socks all for 4 minutes.  I also bought the easy go dryer so after each spin I hung each thing in the holder and then started the dryer and started the dryer for 60 minutes.  After all this I poured a cocktail and the regular washer signaled it was done and ready to be put into the dryer.
Lesson learned: get a longer hose for faucet so I don't have o use bucket for filling washer and figure out a way of making drain hose stay in tub.  All in all this washer works good.  It does require "babysitting" but it is efficient.  It will work good for boating and camping since faucets are available outside and I can drain overboard easily.


This was exactly the part I needed for my broken Whirlpool icemaker.  This kit came with several different wiring harnesses and attachment clips to choose from, but in my case, I was able to unplug the old wiring harness and plug it directly into the new unit.  I have a side by side and it was a little awkward to remove the old icemaker since there was not a lot of room to work.  But I was able to do the whole swap in about 15 minutes.  First, I'd advise you turn off the fridge.  I removed the three screws holding on the old icemaker and then using a small slotted screwdriver removed the old wiring harness that plugged into the icemaker.  I then removed a plastic bracket from the bottom that held the 3rd screw in place and attached it to the new unit.  Inspect your old unit to see the if your unit requires a cutout where the water lines comes into the icemaker.  This unit doesn't have the cutout, but it is prescored if you need a cutout.  All you have to do is use a pair of cutters to remove the plastic so it will fit your fridge.  I needed the cutout and while you need to be careful, it just takes a couple of minutes.  Check your old unit vs the new unit and adjust the water level screw to match your old unit.  Attach the wiring harness into the unit and screw the new unit in place.  With three screws, mine was already level.  If you had a 2 screw unit, you might want to visually make sure it was level.  After turning the unit back on, it took mine about an hour before the thermostat was ready and it started making ice.  Some folks have said it took theirs' a whole day to start, but in my case, within 24 hours I had a full ice drawer.  Like I said, about 15 minutes start to finish.  Update 12/8/2013  We've had this icemaker for about 18 months.  Noticed a burning smell coming from the fridge and discovered that icemaker heater was still on and harvest bar kept cycling around.  I unscrewed and unplugged icemaker and removed it from fridge.  Removed the front cover and discovered the little plastic wheel had a large burn mark on it that was all the way through.  Apparently something went south in the motor and I will have to get a new unit.  This unit has worked great until now, but I will have to get a replacement.  The last couple of weeks, the icemaker had been overfilling a little and the harvested ice was stuck together.  I guess I should have paid attention to this since it was a precursor to the unit burning out.  We have loved this unit, but just a cautionary tale to keep an eye on them.