Excellent - enough so that it actually motivated my lazy self to write a review here (I'm also ordering another package now so was here anyway)

Ive tried a few different types of filters made by other companies and none have been as good as this one. Some, while appearing well made, didn't work well or really at all with my machine. Others were cheaply made - thin and flimsy - and weren't worth the money spent for the time gotten out of them.

These are thick, sturdy and well constructed. All of which means they last longer than the average replacement designs. If youve previously tried a variety of others, youll notice how substantial these are as soon as you take them out of the package.

--- Update ---

We run our humidifier 24/7 - probably around 22 hours a day on average, all week long.
Its been 5 weeks now and this filter is still working. Not as good as the first few weeks but still good enough to not change yet.

I use New York City tap water... not filtered and nothing added to the tank.
I flip the filter every time I refill the tank - which is around 3 times a day considering the constant use.
If the outer layer of the filter feels dry when refilling, I soak the filter in cold water for a few minutes (this usually starts happening after a few weeks of use). Ive never had more that the tips or portions of the outermost layer get dry.
Once a week I soak the filter in a mix of water and vinegar - roughly 1/2 cup of vinegar and 6 cups water - for 15-20 mins. Then rinse gently to flush the vinegar.
While soaking the filter I clean the machine tray - a quick scrub with soap and water, then a little bleach rinsed off thoroughly with cold water. The water tank too - soap and water, no bleach (make sure to clean the ring where the cap screws in, and the cap too).
The filter gets discolored with time, going from white to a light tan color, with a thin, slightly darker ring near each end - typical result of mineral deposits from what I can tell. I haven't seen anything like the dark and black mold issues people post pictures of online.

--- Update Two ---

Ive seen some people comment about black mold forming on their filter within a week of use. That much, that fast should not happen in a machine that is clean.

Assuming the tray and water container are being regularly cleaned... lift the top part of the machine off the water tray, flip it upside down, and take a look inside at the fan casing and motor. Black mold can form inside of the machine, and if this happens it will spread quickly to any filter you use - since it is already present and in close proximity to the filter. Wiping this area down will help prevent this - I used a tooth pick and disinfectant wipe to clean out the little grill at the center under the fan.


I bought the "refurb" one for $196 (shipped).  From the reviews I am seeing all mini-fridges, they are pretty much all hit and miss unless you go commercial.  I figured at $200 it was disposable if it just lasted a couple years.  Mine wasn't actually refurbed per say, but was a scratch and dent model.  It came with an inspection that said it was verified to work.  It has a good dent in the stainless metal frame around the front window.  I expected something like this as it stated somewhere in the ad to expect this on the refurbs.  I didn't take off 1 star because of that.

Actually I may look at taking the door frame off and see if I can roll out the dent to make it more presentable, but this is just for a gameroom so no worries either way.  I don't have a thermometer to put in the fridge yet to check the exact temp, but I will update the review when I do.  If you turn it on max cold, drinks seem comparably cold to my full fridge, maybe a tad cooler.  What I am taking a star off for is the noise and power draw.  I can easily hear this thing running across the house, although its the pitch that gets you, not the db.

Update 1 - I was initially worried how cold beverages would get and how much it would have to run to get them there.  I would say it gets them cold enough for me at setting 6 (of 7).  At setting 7, drinks have that near freezing bite to them.  Thats definitely nice, but knocking it down a setting is sufficient for me, and will reduce wear and tear and electricity.  I only do bottles and I was able to fit 2 racks in the middle, plus the rack at the bottom that is immovable.  Longnecks fit perfect in the middle(6x5), pint cans and shorties at the top(6x5 if all bottles).  I do bottle water in the bottom rack(6x3).  Since water bottles are a bit squished in there at 6x3 you probably wouldn't have much luck fitting glass bottles in the space with this config.  Also, as I said before its loud.  Its not so much the dB of the sound as it is the pitch which seems to carry.  I can still easily hear it at night on the other end of the house.

Update 2 - Had it for 8 months now and its still on the loud side, but mostly you can ignore it unless you are trying to sleep in the same room with it.  New problem has arisen.  I turned down the cold a notch to 5 from 6 for the fall and since the day I made the change the fridge has been making loud clunking noises.  At first I thought the ice on the coils was melting and dropping, but its not.  Its clearly some mechanical issue.  Its still working like a week or so later, but the noise this thing makes is crazy loud.  It sounds like someone is throwing a porcelain plate on concrete.  If I had to guess, I'd say its dying, so I don't expect it to last much longer.


Just got my cooler a week ago and I'm very happy with it.  I suggest reading the other reviews as they helped guide me to selecting this product and were very helpful in describing some of the finer features that I was looking for.  Now that I've unpacked and used the unit for a week or so, I thought it might be helpful to share some things that weren't obvious from the product description or other reviews:

1) The inside top of the unit slopes slightly from front to back, making it a bit less "tall" toward the back.  I'd guess you lose a 1/2 inch or maybe a bit more in height.  Not a lot, but enough that it might make you move your top rack down a notch.  Also, on the right-hand side of the roof, there is a small "something" sticking down in the back that takes another 1/2 inch or so.
2) The door can swing fully open - there is no stop for it.  The first couple of times I opened it, I didn't hang on to it and it swung clear around and hit something sitting to the right of the unit.  Again, not a big deal, just keep in mind.
3) As I read one other place, there is a small drip pan in the back of the unit that is not mentioned anywhere in the product description.  I haven't had the unit long enough to know whether it fills up, but have set myself a monthly reminder to check it.
4) You lose roughly half your space in the bottom 1/4 of the unit.  This is the intrusion from the back where all the "stuff" is.  There is a half-depth shelf right around there that butts up against the top of the intrusion, so you can still use the full depth at that point if it's at the right height.  That was a nice feature.  Below that level though, you loose half your depth.  This really didn't impact me as I'm using that lower cavity for small, 100 calorie pop cans, mixers and the like.
5) While apparent from the pictures, I didn't register with me that there is no digital temperature display with this unit, just a 1-10 wheel for cooling selection.  As I am using this as a beer fridge and want a particular temperature, I'm going to buy a small thermometer to put inside the unit as an aid in selecting the proper temperature.
6) Minor note - the interior light does have an on/off switch.
7) Lastly, it could just be me but I couldn't get the unit to be perfectly level from front to back.  Side to side was fine, but the front of my unit shows it is a bit high even with both front legs screwed in all the way.  This could be by design, but as one of those "anal" types, it was frustrating to not be able to get it perfectly level, lol.

Overall, for the price, exactly what I was looking for.


As someone who works with precision instruments and requires NIST certificate calibrated by certified companies, I was interested to see how accurate these hygrometers were for home use.  NIST standard is basically what companies go by to have it calibrated to a known precision test equipment to insure their own equipment is in fact has correct readout and is not broken or giving false readings.  This could be anything from pressure meter, torque wrench, digital calipers and so on.  I tested using a known calibrated industrial hygrometer with a fast sample rate.

There are a lot of factors people are missing when they do a review on a consumer level hygrometer and why their review may or may not be accurate.  I'm not doubting their reviews but when I see a review that compares another product without stating how their 'other' equipment was calibrated and validated for their accuracy, no one can say for sure which is accurate.

Like someone else mentioned, even the industrial hygrometers should be in its testing environment and acclimate before getting the actual reading.  With our hygrometer we use, because the unit travels from one station to another, 10-15 minutes is given to give a better reading.  If someone put this ThermoPro hygrometer with another and sees an instant reading, then chances are, it'll be all over the place.  It's more so if the unit came from an environment that was very humid and/or with a big swing in temperature than what he or she is trying to measure.

Keep in mind, these inexpensive products unfortunately is not a product I would suggest if the environment has heavy swing in temperature and humidity that would affect their use.  Why?  These hygrometers sample rate isn't fast enough for certain application and will respond very slowly to changes in temperature and humidity.  If these were industrial hygrometers, you're looking at spending few hundred dollars for a handheld model.

Another example; a $400 digital industrial hygrometer we use have a sample rate of 1 second and that can be changed as well as measure the dew point.  This product wouldn't be bad as long as you don't have high expectation and just a general readout of your home's room or the garage as an example.  For the price, in my opinion, it's an excellent 'general' tool.  Our acceptance for humidity and temperature is no more than 2% for humidity and 2 degrees for temperature.

If you're looking to measure temperature and/or humidity that require precise measurement every time with faster response, you'll want to look at industrial hygrometer that can also be calibrated.  With the products we deal with, an non-calibrated equipment could give us false reading and possibly damage customer products.

So you have to ask yourself if this hygrometer meet your needs.  Either you simply want a general reading and don't care for sudden change in temperature, or you'll have to invest in a hygrometer that can be calibrated and certified.  Actual calibration of hygrometer isn't too expensive (under $100) and suggest you calibrate once a year.  Used hygrometer is fine as well as long as they're functioning and can be calibrated.


Summit SBC490

I decided to replace the Haier HBF05EBSS a beer dispenser that was included in a recent home purchase.  Unfortunately, in my haste to defrost the self- defrosting unit that was caked with ice, I rupture the coolant line.  I decided to not fix the unit and instead upgrade to a better quality unit.

After a fair amount of research, it appeared as though the Summit brand was an improvement in quality over the Haier.  I elected to go with the SBC490 which was a full size unit with the self-defrosting option, costing almost $300 more than a new Haier.

To say that I was totally disappointed with the Summit would be an understatement.  The product arrived in a pristine box with no dents or dings.  However, upon opening, the trim to the countertop was grossly damaged and was obviously known to whoever packaged the unit.  I was able to do a make-shift repair to the trim and was satisfied that the damaged area would not be seen as it was going under a bar.

Upon investigating the unit more thoroughly to check for any other damage or missing parts, I realized that my new Summit SBC490 was the EXACT same unit as the Haier HBF05EBSS with only a different name badge.  I was so annoyed that I just paid $300 more for the same product I was replacing, but did not want to wait yet another 2 weeks to purchase a replacement.

I also realized that in addition to the damaged trim, a leg was missing as well as the bracket that holds the CO2 tank.  As I still owned the exact same unit, I was able to salvage the leg, but elected to order the CO2 bracket.  When I went to install the CO2 bracket, the pre-drilled holes were not even threaded to accommodate the screws that were included with the unit.

Another disturbing item was the customer service I received from Summit.  I realized that my previous Haier had a left side door swing which was needed in the confined space where the unit was to be placed.  The Summit came with a right side door swing which would not work for me as I would never be able to open the door wide enough to get a keg in.  I contacted Summit to see how to change the door swing as it appeared the changeover could be done.  I was told by a Summit customer service representative, who seemed annoyed at the mere question, that the door could not be changed, period.  When I tried to explain that their unit was the same as the Haier unit, having an adjustable door swing and tried to ask further questions, the Summit representative became even more annoyed and was anxious to get off the phone to do other more important customer service stuff.

I ultimately figured out how to change the door swing, by using the Haier unit as an example.  This is something Summit should provide.

I just had to defrost the ice buildup this weekend after only a month of being in operation.
Moral of the story. Dont buy a Summit SBC490 as you are merely getting a lessor quality Haier.


I recently got one of these ice makers and thought I'd toss out a few observations.  I haven't noticed any plastic or other smell or taste, but I got a factory refurb and that might have made the difference.  I don't know about the 33 pounds per day claim, but it does make a lot of ice and quickly.  To address some negative comments about this unit, keep in mind it's an ice maker, not a freezer.  It doesn't make clear, dense ice cubes.  If this is the kind of ice you're looking for, buy bagged ice at the store.  Don't buy this unit or any other "portable" ice maker. On the other hand, for the ice-o-phages out there, it's great chomping ice. After it's made, the ice does melt. If I turn it off when the ice bin is full, it takes 12 to 13 hours for all the ice to melt.  That's in a room at 77 - 78 degrees.  And it does clump while it's melting. But it's not a hard clump.  You can break it up by hand, no ice pick necessary.  As the ice melts, the water drips into the reservoir through three holes in the ice bin, and makes new ice.  One thing I do that I haven't seen in user reviews is use distilled water.  It is totally taste neutral and has no minerals to possibly clog up the works. It seems to make ice that's a bit denser than tap water. It's only 99 cents/gal(on sale this week for 87 cents), I also don't have to clean the unit as often.  Using the term portable for these kind of ice makers is kind of a stretch.  The Danby's footprint is 14 inches wide and 17.5 inches deep.  It is about 18 inches high.  If you are concerned about space, get out your yardstick and start measuring.  Heavy is relative. This unit weighs about 48 pounds.  I didn't have any trouble getting it out of the box and lifting it onto a 4 foot high shelf by myself and I'm 64. I really like the timer.  It lets me turn the unit off in the evening and set it to come on about the time I get up so I always have plenty of ice.  I've had the Danby for three weeks and so far, it's been doing what I wanted it to do. Unless it dies prematurely,  I'll give it five stars.

I've had the Danby for almost two years and it's still churning out lots of ice.  I consider all of the above comments still valid.  The only criticism I'd make is that it's a bit noisy.  There's the whir of a fan during the freeze cycle and the occasional clatter of the ice being dumped.  I wouldn't want it in the same room as some quiet music but in a kitchen environment, it shouldn't be much of an issue.  I still give it five stars.


First, let me say that the icemaker has worked for the week or so since I installed it.

Installation was an adventure.  My GE refrigerator said that this was the correct model for retrofit, and it was.  There was an installation section in the refrigerator manual and installation instructions in the  booklet that came with the icemaker.  I needed both.  Even after reading both sets of instructions and "walking" through the procedure, there were both missing steps and ambiguities.

Parts: There were two different fill cups - one that came with the refrigerator and one that came with the icemaker.  Fortunately, it wasn't too hard to decide which to use.  Connecting the water valve to the incoming water line requires a nut and ferrule for the compression fitting.  These are cheap, so it's not clear why they are not included.  It's lucky that I've done some plumbing before or I would not have even known what to buy at the hardware store.

Instructions: Both sets of pictures are poor and far too few.  For instance, there are indents in the refrigerator sheet metal for the water tubing from the wall and the tubing to the icemaker.  These indents are not labeled, but if you miss them, the access cover plate will crush the tubing.  Another example, there are two water tube inlets (again, one each with the refrigerator and the icemaker)- they look very different, but on closer inspection are actually equivalent.  There is too much leeway for location of the water line clamp (strain relief).  And the list goes on.

In all, it took about 4 hours for the installation, not including the time to head to the hardware store to buy the parts for the compression fitting.  Remember that the refrigerator is unplugged during the installation and the freezer is open part of the time.  It's a good idea to move the contents to another freezer if you have one.

The ice-making speed is very slow - about one cycle per hour.  That's seven ice cubes or so.

The ice bucket is just a bit tall, so you can't just remove it horizontally.  I don't know if this is intention or not, since you can reach in and grab a handful of cubes.  I think not, so this means loosening the screws that hold the icemaker to the inside panel of the freezer and raising the unit a bit.  This can be done, but I presume that eventually the weight of the unit and the vibration of the icemaking will result in the unit settling.

Finally, the unit does make some noise, and the manuals warn you that this is normal.  There is the sound of water flowing into the icemaker (about a couple of seconds) and the sound of the ice cubes falling into the bucket.  This becomes less loud as the ice bucket fills, and of course it only happens once an hour.

Having said all this, we're still happy we bought this.  It really is nice not to have to keep filling ice cube trays and dripping water between the sink and the freezer.

I hope to update this review after the icemaker has been in use for a few months.


When we remodeled the kitchen 3 years ago, my husband fell in love with this dishwasher.  Since there are only two of us living here, he figured it would be convenient and money saving to have the smaller drawer to wash on a regular basis.  In addition, the salesperson showed him that if you remove the racks from the drawer, you can pack the thing with ice and use it for chilling beer/drinks when you entertain.  You know men....that was a selling point for him.  I thought the thing was overpriced and wanted to go with something cheaper that had a longer reputation for being reliable.

Well, three years later, I have been more than pleased with this dishwasher, and I have had to "eat crow" more than once that his pick actually worked out well.  We are fortunate (and I hope I'm not tempting the gods by writing this review) that we have had no problems with it.  I thoroughly understand the frustration of those who have.  But every product you buy has the potential for being a "lemon."  I have spoken with people who bought top of the line Thermadore equipment and have had bad luck.

I am conscientious about using BOTH drawers, but it is tempting to only use the top drawer over and over.....no stooping.  But I spread the "work" between the two motors and that way they should both "die" about the same time.  Anal, I know.  It's a bit different to load, but I got used to it quickly.  I like the removable utensil basket, as I often take it out to load special items, and you can carry it around to either set the table right from the DW or put utensils away.  My daughters DW has the utensil area in the door and it is very inconvenient.

I use the recommended products and the rinse aid in the machine and it does a beautiful job on everything.  In fact, I stopped pre-washing the dishes because it does such a good job...I just wipe them off.  I wash dishes more frequently because we can fill up the drawer more quickly.  Am I saving money?  Probably not.

Do we use it for icing drinks for parties?  Well, once!  I found that when people take the drinks out of it, they tend to drip all over the floor, and then foot traffic turns it into a dirty mess, so you are constantly wiping up during the party.  Not the fault of the dishwasher (maybe I should get new friends?).

Oh, also....my grandkids broke one of the brackets on a hanging rack this summer.  I went on Sears website, ordered a new one very cheaply and it was delivered in two days.  Very convenient and easy.  No hassle at all.

Overpriced....yes.  Does it work?  Yes, for me it does.  Very well.  How long will it work well?  We're three years and counting.  Four stars instead of five because it's seriously OVERPRICED.


I am single and it takes so long to get a full load together for the large washing machines in my apartment building's laundry room that I can't separate whites and colors. I wanted a smaller machine so I could use less water and electricity, and do smaller loads.

I have had this item in my tiny studio apartment kitchen for a year now. I do about 5 loads a month. It does a good job on laundry with a small amount of water and has all the features that large machines have, such as bleach and detergent dispensers, even a timer to start a delayed load. It has a soak cycle, a fast cycle, etc. and handles a regular laundry basket full of dry clothing or linens without crowding. The lint filters are easy to clean and the machine never malfunctions. The controls are easy to operate although I wish the default were for a "large" not "medium" size load.

The only problem I have had is that the drain hose only has one hose clamp, and the flange it attaches to is too short to attach another. This means, if the clamp happens to loosen up and let the hose loose, you will flood your downstairs neighbor's home and a whole lot of expensive repairs will be needed. The landlord will be angry. Therefore I check that hose clamp often to make sure the hose is on there nice and tight. It needs tightening about once a month.

Also, when my cousin helped me install it, we were mystified that the standard installation requires two water connections, one each for hot and cold water, although it is supposed to be a portable unit, getting water from the (singular) kitchen sink faucet, and draining into the sink (don't forget to remove the drain's strainer). We found a quick-connect fitting that allows the cold water hose to snap onto the faucet (only six trips to hardware stores to get this right) and threw away the extraneous hot water hose; this makes setting up for a load quick and easy. Hard to imagine using this portable unit in a spot with a regular two-faucet hookup. Maybe the second hose, etc. could be offered as a bonus parts kit for that situation.

I also had problems with the casters. There are two casters one can install on the front legs. It would be easier to roll the thing up to the sink if the back legs had casters too, but I guess then the thing might try to run across the kitchen during a load? Wouldn't having brakes on the casters resolve that? Something for the engineers to take a look at, along with the glue on all the stickers it is covered with, which don't come off.

One nice thing is the top surface of the washer is pretty flat. I keep a big towel thrown over it and use it for drying dishes, etc. - it serves as useful counter space. A bonus.

All in all, a very nice thing to have in a small apartment, and, depending on how many quarters your laundromat requires, does not take that long to pay for itself, especially considering that it does not need much in the way of expensive laundry chemicals.


Our Amana Side-by-Side stopped cooling late in the afternoon the day before Thanksgiving.  We bought ice and stuffed the fridge, then rushed to shop before the stores closed.  This is not the way I like to shop.  I like to do research first. But because we must keep Insulin chilled but not frozen we didn't have the luxury of research time and Internet shopping.

I knew I wanted this style because I love bottom freezers, it is easy to see items in the back, and it is energy efficient.

None of the stores we were able to get to before closing time carried this model.  I found that most brands had freezer drawers that were extremely difficult to open.  Some I couldn't open at all.

I was worried about buying American because I knew Whirlpool had bought the companies and we once had a Whirlpool that was nothing but trouble.  Our son bought a bottom-freezer Amana after the company had been purchased by Whirlpool.  He said he was pleased with it, had had no problems, and was told when he bought it that Amana still makes the machine; Whirlpool only makes the visible exterior.

I have recommended Amana to family and friends so the only question was could I open the drawer?  Yes!  The floor model was tight; the one on my new fridge is easier to open even when fully loaded.  The freezer has 2 upper drawers for easy access to the foods you use most frequently.  They slide.

The big surprise was inside the refrigerator section.  The left side has 6 special holders for soda or beer cans.  This saves a lot of shelf space.  The right door has a special place for 2 gallons of milk.  Shelves are adjustable.  There are 2 crisper drawers and a deli drawer.  To use the deli drawer you have to open both doors.  The lights are bright.  The water filter is up front so it's easy to replace.  It's large so it should last quite a while.  The fridge will tell you when the filter needs to be replaced.  There's an alarm to warn you the doors aren't closed.  It went off as we were loading the fridge.  It's loud enough to hear across the room but it doesn't blast you out of the house.

This model provides ice and water through the door.  You can select water only, cubes only, or both together.  The temperature control is also on the outside.  There is a child lock to prevent children and large dogs from playing with the water dispenser.  (Yes, dogs sometimes press their noses to it.  We have a friend who has a curious Great Dane.)

This refrigerator is quiet!  Amana is not known for quiet refrigerators, only good ones.  Insulation is great.  It hardly runs but maintains temperature perfectly.

What you will miss are an egg container and a large ice container.  I miss the crushed ice my previous Amana had.  And I believe a side-by-side freezer holds more than this drawer.  Both my Amanas are 25 cubic feet total but I don't know the freezer measurements.

The exterior does not show fingerprints!


I bought this 18" dishwasher to replace the Sears Kenmore of the same size I had for more than 20 years.  The small size is perfect for a family of two and I used it nearly daily.  The Miele is so quiet it is hard to even tell it is on if not for the lights and that is probably the biggest plus.  It cost eight times the price of what I paid for the Sears model so there should be some plus to it.  On the negative, it has already cracked on the top despite paying extra for the authorized Miele service man to come out and install it.  When we called on the crack we were told it wasn't covered and now the crack is all the way across the top and seems certain to turn down to the front panel.  It was less than a year when we saw the crack.  The Sears had no such thing, was metal on the edge, not plastic.  We did nothing to cause this; it was a weakness that gets worse with simply closing and opening the door.

Now, the thing that makes me most miserable is the odd and not helpful layout of the two main trays.  I can only fit in half the glasses and cups I had with my old one.  This is layed out so oddly that it is only for plates or small plates and the lower level is nearly useless for bowls which hardly ever come out clean and I have to wash by hand.  The size is too tight for the dinner plates so I have to wash those by hand and if people try to help with dishes I always have to redo whatever they did as the dishes will hit the spinning wheel above and won't get clean unless the biggest ones are removed or set on an angle.  Most dishwashers have prongs upright that can be used for cups, plates, glasses or bowls as one wishes.  Not so these trays.  It was as if someone had an idea of what each must be used for and they do not have flexibiity for use to add more cups or dishes if it is plates only or vice versa.  I don't wash that many plates, especially since the dinner size won't fit, but I do wash many cups and glasses.  With this machine I have to run it half empty and still wash many of my glasses by hand because they don't fit in this ill suited tray design.  Who would guess to spend so much money thinking it was a 20 year purchase and to have it crack and be so inefficient?  I am going to look to see if I can buy a new kind of generic tray to replace these poor ones that have caused me to lose many glasses and cups and ceramic plates to chipping, something that never happened even once with the Sears.  No, NO, NO to Miele and the saddest thing is I bought two of them!  Yes, one for our second home at the same time.  It is so sad.


I have had FloodSafe hoses on both my washing machine and dishwasher for approximately 5 years. I have had no issues with leaks or having the FloodSafe valve shut off water flow under normal operation of both washer and dishwasher. Since I replace hoses as a precaution periodically (in my opinion a lifetime hose is probably more of a fantasy than reality) I decided to try testing the dishwasher hose. Now I admit that the test I performed does not represent a reconstruction of a burst hose scenario. Therefore, the reader must determine what value if any to place on my efforts. First, I attached the hose under my sink and placed the other end over a bucket. I opened the quarter turn shut off and the water flowed freely into the bucket. There was no restriction on the end of the hose. The next step was to cut off the end w/o the FloodSafe valve using an angle grinder, trying to get closer to a burst hose event. Back to the kitchen, again I attached the FloodSafe hose and opened the quater turn shut off. Again the water flowed freely. Needless to say there was no restriction on the flow of water.
The flaw with my test is that I really needed to cut off the end of the hose while it was attached to the shut off valve with shut off in the on position and the the other end being cut blocked off. However, working with electricity and water at the same time is not something I recommend to anyone. No doubt water would have been shooting everywhere. I believe FloodSafe may offer protection if there is a burst hose (which is very unlikely due to the stainless braid). However, if the leak starts off small and gets gradually larger, would FloodSafe actually prevent a flood? That is up to debate. I have my opinion, but I am not out to trash the reputation of a hose that worked w/o incident for approximately 5 years. But then again, I never had hose burst or even a small leak so I can't confirm that this hose is truly FloodSafe, a feature which sets it apart from ordinary hoses.
Addendum:
It is likely that the activation of the Floodsafe feature requires water pressure (ie. an open shut off valve) and flow interuption at the other end when the burst occurs. By this I mean a typical operating scenario where the shut off is on, allowing water to flow and the dishwasher is not being used. Therefore, to repeat my  experiment again correcting any flaw previously made I tried a different tact, one that more closely resembles a normal burst hose under typical operating conditions. Here is what I did. I connected the FloodSafe hose to a garden hose spigot using an adapter. I clamped the opposite end with a vise grip pliers. I put the water on fully. No water was released from the hose. I then opened the vise grips and water flowed freely. I expected FloodSafe to shut off the water. It did not. Perhaps this was due to the age of my hose.
My conclusion is that the FloodSafe dishwasher hose is well made and is unlikely to leak after years of service. As far as the FloodSafe feature goes, it may provide a sense of added protection.  Whether that sense of added protection is warranted has not been proven to my satisfaction.


I used to swear by Venta Airwashers.  Now I swear _at_ them.  I owned one of their first models, the kind that plugged directly into the household outlet without using the "wall wart" transformer used by the new models.  The old version served me well for years, with only an occasional replacement of the clutch and the coupling between the clutch and the disk unit.  Eventually (after about fifteen years), the motor simply gave out...I suppose because of too much dust sucked into the works by the airflow.

The new version -- with the wall wart -- is a fright.  The motor is weak, so is the humidity output, and for some reason Venta has decided to make the new units "idiot proof" (which wasn't necessary: an obvious case of a solution in search of a problem) by adding a "turn off when no water" feature, which requires that passive electrical contacts run up the sides of the water tank and link with contacts in the cover.  All well and good, unless there is a little corrosion or lime deposite that breaks the contact (and if you have hard water, there is plenty of both).  From that undependable juncture, the ribbonlike, electrical linkage runs up to the motor, but will only complete the circuit if the outer covers are closed and projections on the cover press two (!) points on the ribbon to close the circuit.  Any corrosion or deposit (or warpage of the covers) will break the contact and turn your expensive humidifier into a lightweight ship anchor.  And there are so many "idiot-proof" interlocks on this system that any attempt to circumvent them (such as when the outside temperature is -10F, the inside humidity is falling like a rock, your musical instruments are about to explode...and the Airwasher refuses to work because of that speck of corrosion) will prove to be in vain.

The water treatment solution you add to the tank of the Airwasher creates a soap bubble effect between the multiple rotating disks in the tank, and the current of air blows through this "bubble", wafting the moisture out of the Airwasher and into the room.  Unfortunately, some of the soapy emulsion wafts along with the water, coating surfaces in the vicinity of the Airwasher with a dried, soapy residue that is very hard to clean off, and clinging to the inside of the fan housing and onto the fan blades in such a way that cleaning becomes a messy horror.  I was willing in the past to put up with the inconvenience, but with my expensive (and unfixable/unhackable) Airwashers giving up the ghost at the most inconvenient times (And just outside the warranty period!  Imagine that!), I have resolved to run them until they die (one has already given up the ghost) and replace them with less complex and much more dependable evaporative coolers.

Airwashers!  Pah!


I think I would love this unit.  It has a huge tub and many options, however I can't be certain if I would love it as it has arrived broken!!  I, like other owners, had the unit arrive with a broken rod.  The item arrived late Monday and I inspected the outside of the item and down in the tub on Tuesday.  There were a couple of dings/dents and scratches, but I was so excited about the size and look of the unit, I thought I could definitely live with these cosmetic blemishes.

There was a terrible storm that week and I needed my father to help me hook it up, so we didn't get around to hooking it up until Friday after work.  The unit shipped in a box that lifts off the unit and the machine itself sits on a styrofoam base.  As he lifted it off of the styrofoam, we noticed a rather large piece of metal fall from the bottom of the unit.  That could have been the reason there was a dent that was pointing outward on the front (one of the blemishes I mentioned earlier).

I called several times and never received an answer Customer Service (they operate Monday-Friday Pacific Standard Time).  On Monday, I emailed them.  They said that they would exchange the item, but that since I didn't report the damage within 24 hours, I would be responsible for shipping fees.  I already paid nearly $50 to have it shipped to my house broken, so I do not feel I should have to pay shipping on this item or a new replacement item.  There is no where in their policy that states that YOU ONLY HAVE 24 HOURS.  If I understand filing damage claims correctly, Fedex gives you 21 days, USPS gives you 60 days and Amazon and UPS give you 30 days... so if The Factory Depot is an Amazon reseller and ship through any of the above methods, then how do they get to make up (and not post) their own policy of 24 hours.

If you are like me and you are a single person or person with any physical disability, then do not buy from The Factory Depot unless you want to pay for shipping 2 or 3 times.  So, unless you know that you will be able to open and install the unit within 24 hours of delivery, I highly recommend that you DO NOT USE THE FACTORY DEPOT.  This is the first review I have ever written on Amazon and I'm quite certain that I've spent over a $1,000 on Amazon in the last 4-6 months, so I am only writing because I want to make people aware so others may protect themselves.

I've been emailing The Factory Depot (this started 6 days ago) and I still don't have a return mailing label. I've contacted Amazon to make them aware of the issue and asked that they help me get the item returned (at no cost to me).  I'm hoping that they value me as a loyal Amazon Prime customer and make attempts to resolve this issue with The Factory Depot.


Any potential customers out there know what I mean when I say "must have been designed by a man"?  Well, this dishwasher looks good, and the ideas look really good on paper.  But for anyone who actually uses it ... you'll be on your knees plenty.  NOT DESIGNED BY ANYONE WHO USES IT!!!  The whole "dishwasher salt" thing ... first it's impossible to get "dishwasher salt" unless you order it online.  But the really exasperating part (which drove me to make my very first review here on Amazon) is that the dishwasher does not bother to communicate to you that the salt you have already added has been exhausted, until you need to add more salt ... which is when you try to start the dishwasher!!!  What that means to me is that the dishwasher is full of dishes (especially the hefty bottom rack), and I'm pressing the button for it to run.  But no ... it doesn't run.  It took me a while to realize that the reason it doesn't run is that the tiny, tiny little, little light on the dashboard says to "add salt".  So once you have figured that out, if the bottom rack is full (as it usually is when you try to run the dishwasher), you are going to have to perform gymnastics suitable for the Olympics to wash your dishes.  If you can get the heavy-loaded bottom rack out as far as it will roll, you will then have to squat or bend over uncomfortably and (hopefully evading the dinner plates already loaded into position) utilize the Popeye-spinach forearm of your dominant hand to un-screw the plastic cover of the salt dispenser.  (For the first time, you will undoubtedly need to consult your Bosch Operating Instructions to find out where the salt dispenser is, so be sure they are handy ... as well as the "dishwasher salt" that you will have had to order online.)  Once you have managed to remove the plastic cover, you will need a funnel (Oh, sorry ... you don't have one?  Well, better get one!) so you can squat or bend over again and pour the precious "dishwasher salt" from some vessel into the tiny hole where the "dishwasher salt" goes.  OR ELSE YOU CANNOT WASH ANOTHER DISH ... EVER!!!  This happens most often when dinner guests are expected to arrive within an hour.  The really, really sucky thing for me is that my glasses still come out with spots on them, so often I have to wash them again by hand and dry them to remove the spots.  I would very much like to meet the person(s) who designed this high-end dishwasher.  I promise that, if you get in touch with me, I will pour you the cocktail or glass of wine of your choosing.  I would just like to know whether you have ever used this machine, and if so, how often ... and what curse words do you use when you have to "add salt".


This commercial grade fridge is actually pretty nice, but first the important news that any potential buyer (or current new owner) should know! This fridge has a 12-hour defrost cycle which is not well documented and it may catch you by surprise, as you might think your fridge is broken...  So the issue is that NOWHERE in the documentation does it say that it's expected that the fridge will WARM up during this defrost cycle every 12 hours!  During each defrost cycle the fridge goes from a very stable 38F, then rises to 60F after about 30 minutes, then kicks on again to cool back down.  The product docs/specs only mention that it has a 12 hour auto-defrost cycle, period... Again, NO mention about the fact that it is typical for the fridge to get THAT warm!  Also beware that during this defrost cycle the fridge will become quite humid and everything in it gets moist with condensation.  I have validated this information with Frigidaire/Electrolux commercial product customer service and asked that they update their product materials to clearly state this behavior to customers.  Also let it be known, that this is still considered a "food safe" fridge, as it does conform to FSIS standards (which baffles me, as warming, cooling and humidifying food is more NOT food safe than anything else).  In any case, since it does this, I would NOT recommend this fridge for extended food storage.  I use it strictly for drinks, which it is excellent for.

Now onto the good things about this fridge.  It is very sleek, stylish, well built, and it's HUUUUUGE on the inside, so you have TONS of wide open and easy to access storage.  The shelves are simple to adjust, and I put some of the racks at a slight angle so when a soda is removed from a 12-can "fridge pack" style box the next one rolls forward for a nice "auto-dispensing" feel.  The door seals itself nicely when closed, and if you level it properly, you'll never accidentally have it slightly open, unless you don't even get it close to closed of course.  Also, it isn't all that loud for being a commercial unit, but it is certainly much louder than a standard fridge, so I wouldn't keep this in the kitchen or anywhere else where you would like it to be quiet (I keep mine in the garage so I never hear it in the house).  The insulation seems quite good as well, since it holds a stable 38F even on sweltering hot summer days when the garage can heat up to 90F or higher for long periods of time.

If I would have known about the details of the auto-defrost cycle and that I couldn't keep food in here long term (or dry age steaks, which was what I originally wanted to do with this fridge), I would have looked elsewhere.  At least I got this at a great price since it was a floor model, but for just a drink fridge, I would have been pretty angry if I had paid full MSRP for this.


I started out to buy a top rated Amana Amana Easy Reach Plus Series ABL1922FES 18.6 cu. ft. Freestanding Bottom-Freezer Refrigerator with 4 Glass Shelves, Adjustable Fresh Food Door Buckets and Deli Drawer: Stainless Steel/Left Hinge Door but it turns out that this is basically the same machine with a few nicer touches, like see-through bins. They are made by the same company.  This fridge is pleasant to look at and does not jut out much beyond our counters, so it fits nicely in the kitchen.  The inside has some moveable/customizable elements, and it is worth experimenting with them to get the most of the space (we were used to a larger machine). For instance, you may not want to take up shelf space with the bulky egg holder, and the wine rack is best placed away from the area where you want to store large containers.  The dual controls come factory set at "4" and that has worked well for us: Ice cream is firm but not a block of ice, and the food in the fridge is the right temp.  Some negatives:  The freezer drawer is rather hard to open--it takes enough heft that before we loaded up with food we actually moved the refrigerator when we pulled on the drawer.  The ice maker has a large bin that takes up a lot of freezer space. It makes a huge amount of ice before shutting off, more than most people would have use for. Finally a word about the stainless steel front: It is delicate. The manufacturer warns you not to use paper towels, because they will scratch it!  It has a visible horizontal grain that will be marred by practically anything, including ketchup.  This makes no sense in a kitchen, and a stainless steel appliance should have the qualities we are used to in stainless steel.  I've only had this refrigerator for a couple of weeks, so my 4 stars are based on its performance to date and on its appealing exterior. Our last refrigerator (a Kenmore) had its sealed system fail after only 6 years, so it remains to be seen if this Maytag will be any more long lived or trouble free. It has only a one year warranty, so we certainly hope that that isn't a portent.
Update in July of 2010:  This fridge has worked perfectly and without a problem since we got it.  It doesn't use a lot of electricity, and with all of the ice being produced by the problem-free ice maker we ended up using more ice than we used to.


I thought I would do this as a service. I bought the 48inch outdoor grill with wok, with warming drawer, with side burners, with rotisserie, with subzero ice maker, with sub zero fridge in an integrated assembly for use in a semi-covered outdoor BBQ setup in Maui. I think the cost was over $20k and it was installed by the Thermador factory representatives. Everything was installed 5 years ago.  I'll just go through a quick litany of issues. The fridge has had to be repaired twice, the IceMaker has had to have fans installed even though the specifications say that it can be installed with minimum clearance. The ice maker usually produces soggy ice - right near melting, and this is during winter months. We have had service people - also authorized work on it at least 7 times and we are presently having to put in more ducting and fans. The igniters have failed three times. The rotisserie has failed twice requiring about $300 in repair each time. The warming drawer needed complete replacement in the 2nd year and all of the fittings and electrical were deeply rusted and corroded. On top of this, I have never liked using it as it seemed uncontrollably hot. This is an LP conversion from the factory and the proper orifices were installed. When we brought up the problem to the installer servicer he first tried to solve it, but then said "they are all like this - there is no control". Last year I finally started to see if I could solve the problem and found that the continuous "infinity" adjustment controls on the front actually had no control - only on and off. They are market Off -Lite - Hi - and Lo. But none of the 3 zone controls adjusted the flame at all. We figured that something had been improperly installed. Integrated as part of this on the right side are two side burners. They work well, with continuous adjustment, as you would expect. The same with the Wok. I started probing more deeply and went back to the original manual for this model as well as two others in the series and it said that all burners have infinitely adjustable control. I finally went to the installers manual and saw the phrase: "LP options in the 48" inch version have no control". This was obviously discovered after the units were designed as whatever the problem that arose that kept them from offering this feature in the actual deliveries of their product - EVEN THOUGH THEIR INSTRUCTION MANUAL DESCRIBED IT AS A FEATURE - a feature that makes the entire BBQ useless if reasonable control of heat is important in your cooking. As I have gathered more information trying to figure out what to do next, I have learned that on Maui the authorized service men are recommending to people that they DO NOT BUY THERMADOR/BOSCH. It has been 5 years since I purchased this, so I don't know if I have any ability to claim damages, but it was never capable of fitness for use, so possibly there is a chance at some recovery, but my intent now is to warn people away from this brand. I have been doing some research and see that these are not isolated problems and that there are many brands superior to Thermador, some at quite a savings. - Just using this as a forum.


I wanted to go to gas cooking in our otherwise electric home, which in my rural area means propane. I selected this range based on known reliability, not the burner output ratings with propane. If you will be using propane, know that burner calculated BTU ratings will be less with propane than with natural gas, and the amount of drop varies among makers. (You can find the figures on a plaque on the ranges but rarely on maker websites.) GE is NOT the big winner in published BTU drop. But I figured that I would be okay with a range having a power burner. I was sort of right. Under propane, the power burner is really not showing apparent great power with the pans I use. It's fine, just not super power. I would say it's a little slower to boil water than the electric was. However, all that is, for me, compensated by the great control with gas. And it's not a wimpy burner at all. I haven't done a lot of experimentation, but I suspect my encapsulated bottom pans might do better on an electric burner, while a plain bottom might be ideal for rapid professional type pan work on gas.

On the other hand, the oven is very fast to preheat and more even than my old electric oven, which is nice.  Unless the food is pretty close to the door, you're not going to see it easily through the smallish window. At least at 6"3" I can't. I had heard that gas was a superior heat for baking. At least with bread, the artisan baguettes I bake three times a week, it's been true. I think it's a moister heat, which produces a good crust. (I have no use for convection ovens, which I take to be gimmicks and costly.)

After reading about many difficulties with black tops, I wanted a SS top. It's nice, but remember that stainless steel is soft, and use nothing abrasive. This model has a finely brushed steel finish, and abrasives can easily leave a marked area. Clean up promptly. We have a largely stainless steel kitchen, and this range has a very impressive presence. I would say it looks "massive." The propane crew encountered no problems doing the conversion and told me GE is among the easier conversions.

Note to new propane users: Many gas supply line sets come with a flare fitting adapter for one end and a combination flare fitting adapter/safety device for the other. This device, which is intended to shut down if something gives way on the stove side of the valve, is apparently designed for natural gas. Propane runs at migher pressure and therefore higher volume, and the safety thought it was seeing a broken line and was trying to shut down, which looked to the leak test instrument like a slow leak, since it was almost competely shut down but still filling the range lines. We had to replace with a plain fitting to get a good leak test.

I can say nothing bad about this range. I knew about the propane power drop. I was told my the experienced propane crew that they knew this model to sometimes warp the door in the high heat of self cleaning, preventing opening. I cannot say or say if that it still valid. I don't use self-clean.


Let me preface this by saying that I did not buy this range through Amazon. I bought it through a high-end appliance store, which is even more disappointing. How any qualified salesperson can sell this range to someone and still sleep at night is beyond me.

The disappointment started Day 1 of using this range. It has an absolutely terrible chemical smell that off-gassed for two weeks. We had to keep all of the windows in the house open to try to rid our home of the smell (thank goodness it was summer  note to self: never buy a new range in the winter!). I felt a whole-body response to this, including watery eyes. I guess it didn't really matter much that we used no VOC paint and other environmentally friendly elements in our new kitchen just to install this toxic piece of garbage. Most large corporations have no regard for the health impacts to consumers of their products. I will forever find that sad and inexcusable. Upon doing research, the KitchenAid website and manual say to remove pet birds from the house because of the very off-gassing that we experienced.

Another thing we noticed on Day 1 was the awful shrill high-pitched sound of the exhaust fan. It runs constantly when the oven is on. The store that we purchased it through sent a repairman and he told us the fan noise was perfectly normal. A company that produces whisper-quiet dishwashers created an exhaust fan that can be heard throughout the house? We had a guest staying with us and when I turned on the oven, she rushed up from the DOWNSTAIRS guest bedroom to ask what the terrible sound was. KitchenAid should be sued for the terrible quality and poor design of this range.

The oven takes 20-30 minutes to heat up to 350 degrees and higher. The heat on the burners is inconsistent and so is cooking in the oven.

I really cannot think of one thing we like about this range. We run our overhead fan when using the oven so that we can try to mask the shrill sound of the exhaust fan. We won't be hosting any gatherings where we would have to have the oven on for an extended period of time  including Thanksgiving. And this is from someone who used to love to slow-roast in the oven. You can remodel your kitchen, but if you end up with garbage appliances, it ends up being a room of the house you don't enjoy being in.

Negative reviews can often be difficult because my question is always  NOW WHAT? It seems so many appliances on the market disappoint and fail customers who invest a great deal of money and trust in the manufacturers. My only advice would be to research non-slide-in ranges. Weve heard that the exhaust fan is so loud because the controls are on the front and overheat easily. We also anticipate this to be the reason this unit eventually fails 2-4 years from purchase (knock-on-wood). Also, weve heard that most, if not all, electric ranges have these issues, so perhaps researching gas ranges would be better as well. We have friends with gas ranges and all are whisper quiet. Good luck!


We've bought three Kitchenaid products over the years and have been dissatisfied with them all and with Kitchenaid's "service." (I use that term loosely.) As with all Kitchenaid products, the ovens look nice. However, they both arrived uniformly 25 degrees below what the readout says, although from time to time they heat at the correct temp. Kitchenaid customer service advises that they expect their ovens not necessarily to be correctly calibrated so they provide a feature by which you are to calibrate the ovens yourself by adding or subtracting temps in 10-degree increments through a function on the electronic panel at the top of the ovens. Adding 30 degrees to each oven (you can't add 25) makes them more or less accurate, assuming that they don't go back to being accurate again without a recalibration. If they stay steady, it's something I could live with, but there's more: the top oven also doubles as a convection oven and it works accurately. This means the following: You typically set convection ovens for 25 degrees less than a recipe calls for, but since the oven has to be calibrated to add 30 degrees so that the regularly functioning oven setting will be accurate (i.e., not the convection oven setting), if I set the convection setting on the oven to 25 degrees lower than the temp in the recipe, it will actually be 30 degrees higher than what the readout says. K-A's solution to this problem is not to send a repairperson out to fix the oven (which is still under warranty) but to tell me that I should always remember to set my convection oven FIFTY degrees lower than the temperature in the recipe. And of course, I'll need to keep a thermometer in each oven at all times in case the regularly functioning ovens go back to being accurate.

And that's not all. They've designed the oven so that if you use the self-cleaning feature without taking the racks out, the racks are ruined and you need to buy new racks, a mistake I made just once in 11 months. Fair enough--my error. However, even their authorized parts dealer is unable to find a replacement for the fancier rack they provide for one oven. (One of the racks slides out on its own rails.) This for an oven that's less than a year old. Also note that, since you can't leave the racks in the oven, you have to clean them by hand, without steel wool, which can be quite difficult at times.

If you're going to spend this kind of money on an appliance, you'd certainly do better to buy it from some other manufacturer even if you have to pay a little more. If you don't mind the kind of problems I've described, you might as well spend less and still buy it from some other manufacturer. I give it two stars, not one, only because it does look nice. I can't explain why we've bought even three of K-A's products--I guess we just keep forgetting--but this is definitely the last one.


This machine does not deserve even 1 star! I don't often write a scathing review, but after 3 years with this machine, it absolutely deserves it.

Let's talk about washing first - the LG designer that wrote the program for washing cycles has apparently never seen or used a washing machine before. The machine has all sorts of extra back-and-forth gyrations between cycles, and with fairly long pauses - enough so that it adds about 10 minutes to what should be the normal washing time. The drain pump is called for whether it's needed or not and this goes on constantly. But the absolute worst of the worst is the spin cycle. The machine will not do well at all with small loads, so don't even bother, but that's not the main issue. The machine cannot achieve any kind of a reasonable balance and makes several tries - the amount of time can exceed 20 minutes or even stop all together with a time-out error. In short, if the machine was a person, that person is terrified of spinning.

Next is doing the drying - the dryer spin does not tumble fast enough to remove wrinkles from permanent press stuff. There is no user accessible lint trap, so it gets trapped in the internal hot air ducts and eventually plugs them. These ducts need to be cleaned at least twice a year, otherwise it burns a hole into the composite plastic duct and the back half of the drum chamber, creating a severe fire hazard.

Fortunately, I purchased an extended warranty when I bought the machine. As of writing this review, repairs have exceeded the original price of the machine. Even the 10-year warrantied motor did not last more than 2 years before the bearings wore out. The front panel circuit has been replaced twice. The drum and drum chamber (2 halves) have been replaced. The most recent failure was the 110 VAC power supply filter and relay; it melted due to inadequate cooling and heat sinking. Currently, the pump sounds as if it is on its last legs. I only hope it goes out before my extended warranty ends because the machine has to be completely dismantled to replace it.

I bought this machine because I have always had good luck with LG appliances, and it truth, the quality of parts used in this machine is good. What destroys this machine is an extremely poor design. Washing and drying in the same unit calls for some pretty exotic design choices and are not met in this unit. The electronics need to be protected better from the intense internal heat generated during the drying cycle. As a matter of fact, it would be better to give up the condensation drying and just use a fan and heating element - the clothes might actually get dry.

At this point, you might be asking how much I use the machine - two medium-sized loads per week, and using the dryer on only one of them.

Do yourself a favor and pass on buying this machine - it is nothing but trouble due to poor design, especially considering its initial cost.


May 28, 2011 Update...I've had this refrigerator for a nearly two years now and my opinion of it has gone down since I originally placed this review (which follows immed.)  It's because, after trying to "mess with it" to get the freezer to be colder, it's hopeless.  It won't do it.  In spite of the fact that now the fridge part has warmed and it's set to max cold.  I give it two stars.  I would save up money and get a GE instead.  My orig. review follows: There are very few refrigerators capable of fitting in an RV so I was happy to find this Whirlpool.  It was slightly larger than the GE fridge that it was replacing, but the price was about $175 less.  I like that there are glass shelves, a well lit interior, molded door compartments, wide latitude temperature control, recessed handles built into the door, a large vegetable drawer, and for me, a smooth exterior paint finish.  One person complained about the refrigerator being loud while running, but I can barely hear the compressor at all.  (Mine is surrounded by cabinetry.)  When I'm standing in front of the door, I can hear the interior fan blowing air in the freezer compartment during the cooling cycle, but it is not too loud to be annoying. On the negative side, the refrigerator could have a little more interior room.  The interior arrangement seems a little bulky; There is a fairly large cage around the light that eats up space. The glass shelves could be beefed up in thickness a little; they bend under a full load. After using it for a few weeks, I've learned that the freezer does not make ice cream hard.  I put a thermometer in to check it and it seems to stay at 10 degrees (not zero like it should) even though the control is set to the max cold!  This is a disappointment as it also means that other foods will not keep as long in the freezer and ice will not cool drinks as well.  I'm deducting one star for this.  (My older little GE would freeze exceptionally well...BELOW zero!)  If the Amazon system would allow deducting 1/2 star I would knock that off, too.  After using the refrigerator for several weeks, I find that the recessed door handles are awkward to use.  It would have been a lot better for them to be put on the sides of the door (they would be vertical) instead of on the top (and bottom of freezer door) where they are horizontal.  It's just awkward to have to place your hand that way. Whirlpool : ET0MSRXTQ 9.7 cu. ft. Top-Freezer Refrigerator - White on White


I was a bit worried when I read some of the reviews for this washer.  I have owned this exact model in white with the see-through lid for a little over a month.  The first weekend after it was delivered, we had company and I was stunned when I realized I could easily fit 3 complete sets of queen bed sheets in one load.  Just to see if the comments about things not getting clean were true, I added a white wash cloth that had been used to wipe off grassy, dirty feet after mowing the lawn and then allowed to dry.  It came out immaculate using cold water and no bleach. Since this is new technology, it pays to READ THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL before you use it.  Sheets need to be placed in the washer a certain way.  I have washed blankets, coats, hand washables, and a queen comforter in addition to the normal washing and had great results each time.  I've never had an unbalanced load.  I love the feature where you can clean the washer itself with the bleach cycle.  I am diligent about letting my washing machines remain open after a load so they can air out, but there was always that mildew smell once they got a bit of age on them.  I had wanted an Energy Star front load washer but just did not have enough space in my small laundry room.  This set (I bought the dryer also)takes up a bit more space front to back than my old Kenmore pair, but is the only top load Energy Star rated washer.  I find the washer very quiet and you do need the alarm to know when it's actually finished with a load.  My laundry room is located right off the kitchen and I can hear the alarm but not the washer running.  I'm short (5"1") and have no trouble reaching to the bottom of the tub to retrieve the wet clothes after a load is finished. My one minor complaint is that I occasionally like to use Woolite Dark for some of my nice black washable items.  Since it's not an HE detergent, I can't use it in this machine and I don't think there is any special dark only HE detergent on the market.  I had only planned to buy a new washer, but realized that the large capacity that this washer could hold would overwhelm my large capacity Kenmore dryer.  In retrospect, I'm glad I decided to buy the pair.  Another reviewer mentioned using a surge suppressor to protect the electronic touch pads and I think this is a good idea.  When my old washer died, I asked our repairman for his input and he said that if you get an electronic model to get an extended warranty of some sort because the electronic boards are very expensive to replace and they are the first things to go.  I haven't had to deal with Whirlpool customer service but would suggest going to repairclinicdotcom to find parts for just about any appliance you can imagine.  I got a large rebate when I bought my washer and will be getting a dryer rack for the dryer (which didn't come with the dryer)as part of my rebate.  I'm very satisfied with this washer after a month of continuous use.


Our house was built 2 years ago.  We selected the GE profile series based on our own previous experience. We had it in our previous home and experience no problems in a little over five years. Now we now we made the wrong choice.  The fridge's control panel failed only a year and a half later.  Vital functions like cold water, Ice and temperature control & monitoring among others just stopped working.  We called GE and they dispatched a technician the very next week. After an extremely quick check the tech said he needed to replace the complete control panel. A $300 fix.  After the repair, we asked the technician how could the control panel had failed only after 18 months of light use, but he quickly replied the failure was caused by a leak.  This didn't sound right to us, so we immediately asked the technician where did the leak came from because we didn't recall seeing any water leaks coming out of our fridge. He said it was probably an internal leak.  We continued to push the issue by saying that the leak that caused the problem may still be there and we did not want the new control panel to fail again. Furthermore, we complained about the quality of their products since the GE Profile stove top's raising fan and the GE Profile microwave rotating table had also failed after just 14 months of use. That was another $350 fix.  The technician seem bothered by our complains and his only response was that we should probably purchase an extended warranty for all three products which ranged between $400 for 1 year and $1,100 for 3 years. The he arrogantly added that those were discounted prices and only good until 1:00 PM that day if we called him to place directly. It was already 10:30am.  What a piece of work....  As it is obvious, we declined.  A second problem we reported to that same technician and for which we are still waiting a solution is that the freezer walls in our fridge seems to have expanded. The racks are now smaller than the spaces they fit in and therefore loose.  Our "proficient" GE technician said it was probably due to the low temperatures inside the freezer. Of course we replied that was nonsense since freezers are supposed to be designed to work and withstand such temperatures. He swiftly said that he was going to check the problem online and get back with us.  That was 6 weeks ago and we haven't heard back from him....  GE used to mean quality.  My grandma used to praise her GE refrigerator which worked for over 27 years without a significant repair and that was finally replaced for a more energy efficient unit. However, in our case three different brand new GE profile series appliances failing between 14 and 18 months after installation tells me things have changed for the worst.  I mean no disrespect, but I never thought I will be buying from a Korean appliance manufacturer. Anyway, for us it now seems to be the ONLY way to go.  Their appliances simply have much better reviews, reliability reports and user ratings than their American counterparts.  We would rather buy from an American manufacturer (Even if the product is not made in the US like the GE Profile), but unfortunately we have no choice.  It is a sad reality.


I didn't buy this pump through Amazon, but wanted to leave some tips for others who had the same problem as me.

Samsung WF328AAW /XAA, SAMSUNG DC96-01414A Drain Pump
First, yes, this is a stupid design for a washer where a loose clasp can get stuck in the drain pump rendering it completely useless. I tried calling Samsung and they were zero help. I called a couple of local repair shops and they all said it'd take weeks to get a replacement pump, oh and the repair cost would be ~$250. $100 for the part and ~$150 for the repair. I also asked them how difficult it'd be and they said it's very complicated and you have to take the whole top of the washer off, etc etc. Not sure if he was confusing my model with another, but this certainly wasn't the case.

1) First, pull the plug on the machine and get access to the back panel. There are 2 screws holding a large access panel in place. Once the panel comes off you can see the drain pump in plain site and very accessible.

2) Make sure you have a bunch of towels. What I did was I took the drain pipe and pulled it down as flat as possible so it drains out as much water (even without pumping). If you have something that can pump the water out, even better. Short of either, you'll need to have a bunch of towels ready.

3) The drain pump has an inlet, an outlet (water, not power), a power connector and 3 large screws. I first took off the outlet hose and took off the clamp (squeeze with your hand). Water will leak if you didn't pump it out. I then took off the inlet hose (again, water will leak, even more then before). I then took off the power. The three screws are very tight. You'll need either a big handle phillips screw driver or you can use a socket wrench.

4) Once you take everything off, the pump comes right out. Look inside and see if anything was stuck. In my case, an undergarment clasp jammed it. I removed it and put the pump back in and plugged everything back.

Here's a word of warning, when you clasp the hoses back, make sure the hose is all the way in and the clasps are in the right spot. Screw it back in and plug the power in. There's a flap that makes the power connector access a bit easier. You just took the flap off. You should also test the washer before closing up the back and moving the washer back into place. Because in my case, my clasps weren't on right and it started leaking.

Pro tip...wear gloves and put a towel over the exposed metal running across the bottom of the access panel. It's sharp. I speak from experience.

Total time, 90 mins. But if I had to do it again, probably less than 30...and if I didn't have to clean up the blood from my wrist, probably 20.

Good luck and hope this saves someone $800!


Love it. Unboxed and ready to go in 10 min. Packaging was very thorough and secure.. impressive.
As compared to others I researched / suggestions:

* The outflow hose (dirty water) it attached to the same tubing mechanism as the inflow (clean water) hose. That entire mechanism attaches to the faucet. No separate outflow hose flopping around in the sink as some portable dishwashers have.

* Suggests the option of a plumber installation.  You don't need it. I am female and hardest part was lifting it out of the box. Pliers may be needed to unscrew the faucet spout. Depends on the faucet. My faucet has a one arm handle for both hot and cold water. Unscrewed the existing faucet spout with pliers. The washer in the dishwasher mounting had to be removed so that the threads on the faucet fit further into the housing. Minimal dripping. Plumbers tape (not sure exact name) fixed the drip.

* Position tubing over the drain. Less chance of splashing.

* This is sold by Compact Appliances.  Check out their website for a video of the appliance. Amazon has the best price.

* Tape. Make sure you remove it all. You can't miss it.. greenish in color. It is also on the filter tray.. in front of the revolving arm. I almost missed it.

* It washed 2 loads back to back on P1 setting - Intense wash. Perfect. No food remants. I want a really hot water wash.. and this is it.

* Jet dry in the rinsing agent compartment on the door - screw cap. You won't use much and worth it. Dishes dry faster - completely dry when removed. No spots. I used a liquid dishwashing detergent.

* Small kitchen and counter space is valuable. Purchased the Seville Classics SHE18321 Stainless Steel Kitchen Workstation and it fits perfectly on the top. I can wheel it to the sink and wheel it back out of the way.

* Noise.. yes there is noise. There is noise with a tv, radio, hair dryer, etc. I read a review for another portable dishwasher and the person returned it because of noise. It's a dishwasher, it's an appliance. Family members have Bosch built in dishwashers that cost over $1000, and you don't hear them. Well, that is not what I'm buying. I am buying convenience and efficiency. Washing machine is louder. Would I run it before going to bed?  Definitely.

Bottom line... Read the instructions.  Use DISHWASHING detergent. Don't use use dish soap.

If I have a problem.. I will update this review right away. Hope this helps. These were things I considered, but couldn't find the answers. Enjoy.


We have had this washer for over a year now and it's been non-functioning off and on for almost 8 months. We bought local, and even so, getting the repair is near impossible. 2 different repairmen have worked on it. The first just plain said call someone else after the first round. The second finally told us that we have to call the Maytag people direct. First, we had a problem with cycles no longer working. So the circuitry was going. Finally got a repairman (we DID buy the extended warrantee thankfully). It took quite a while to get a new board. First the guy came to get the code from the problem, then ordered new board. New board worked partially for maybe 3 weeks, but even so, without the circulator pump which is used the first 10 minutes of the cycle to "inject" the soap by spinning through the clothes. Then the cycles started going again. This repairman would not come back. The warrantee people found a new repairman and we are now repeating the process. He explained that there was a recall on the boards, but no way to tell if their were still some in distribution so no guarantee that we wouldn't get another faulty board, but what to do?

The new board was installed and washer did work partially again, but still without the circulator pump. The repairman went in search of a new part, and a month later said he was told it wasn't available anymore, and we needed to call Maytag again. In the meantime we could still use the washer but only on the Bulky cycle because that one skips the inject phase of the soap dispersal. That lasted maybe 3 weeks, and all of a sudden, the washer no longer DRAINS and has stopped mid cycle half full of water.

I think I have spent almost as much at the laundry mat now than if I'd just bought a new washer when it first went on the fritz. We keep getting the run-around and delays from Maytag who now have Promised either to find parts or replace the washer. I'm worry that even if they do come up with parts, they will last only so long.

Aside from the tech problems not getting fixed, when it did work, I was only marginally satisfied. We bought primarily for capacity, but it's sacrificing other things:
1) I agree with the other reviewer, this was develops a very bad mildew smell. If you go on vacation for a couple of weeks, you literally have to dump in cleaner or just plain bleach and RUN as soon as you turn on the clean cycle or risk throwing up on the machine.
2) Twists and mangles clothes. Even when carefully placing and aligning clothes, it is NOT gentle as the ads claim.
3) Does not clean well when at capacity. You can only fill it half full if you have heavy soiled or stained clothes. We have a farm and clothes get DIRTY. Grease stains do not come out. My old washer (Westinghouse) did not have any problem with barn clothes. That machine worked faithfully for over 20 years. I'm sorry I no longer live with that machine.

WE GOT A LEMON.


These stoves are known to have limited insulation and heat shielding causing the outside of the range to get hot to the touch and I can attest to this.  Also these models make tons of noise (expansion and contraction) when heating up and cooling down.  The single worst thing though is the computer control jobby!  It must have been designed by lab monkeys or something.  I have had 3 service calls and have a 4th scheduled right now all for the same issue in less than two months.  Apparently moisture and/or condensation gets inside the control module and causes it to throw an error code.  This turns out to be nice business for the local Factory Repair company since they get to bill Whirlppol every time they come out here; but it is an unbelieveable nightmare for me.  After the warmup countdown the stove almost always throws an F2 (stuck key) error code.  Meaning that I then have to unplug and power down the unit for at least 2 minutes.  Anything less and it locks you out of the control panel entirely.  While it is powered down this unit is useless as the electronic ignition won't work.  Keeping the clock set is pointless as well seeing as how you are going to have to shut it down nearly every time you use the oven.  The last time the repair guy was here he mentioned the moisture issue.  This seems to be a situation that Whirlpool knows about and has done nothing to fix.

Update!  Finally got a repairman who had dealt with this issue before and knew how to fix.  Apparently the way the exhuast goes therre is an inherent risk of overheating the control panel.  He manually bent the exhaust pipe or whatever it is called.  Now when you run the oven the stovetop gets hot enough to melt anything plastic left on the range.....However, it know works like it should have from the factory.  It appears that the design has a correctable flaw and that Whirlpool would rather spend money and waste the time of customers by making you deal with repeat repair calls for an issue they can and should fix before sale or at the very least on the first visit.

This stove is also a beauty to look at.  Keeping it clean is difficult with the super gloss finish.  After a scrub down with your cleanser and sponge of choice use a solution made from any common degreaser spray and dawn....A little goes a long way and then polish the range with a dishcloth.  This is the only way I have found to keep it gleaming.

UPDATE 03/19/2011
This thing started throwing the SAME F2 code again!  This things is a lemon!  I have owned it less than 4 months and It still does the same thing after 5 0r 6 repair visits!!!  I am filing BBB, Attorney General and Federal Trade Commission complaints!  The Whirlpool company has now paid out more in repair costs than I paid for the range and I still don't have a properly functioning stove!

STAY away from Whirlpool Appliances!  Look at other consumer sites and you will see that they are apparently slapping the Whirlpool nameplate on a lot of poorly designed and manufactured garbage!


I cannot talk about the double oven style, but I recently purchased the single wall oven.  The first one installed did not work at all.  None of the controls would operate properly.  When I would set the control to broil, I would get proof.  If I tried to bake, I got nothing.  After GE insisting on trying to fix it by replacing 4 parts, they finally came to the same conclusion - the oven did not work.  They did replace it within a short period of time.

The second oven I received, appeared to work properly. I was able to bake a cheesecake, rum cake, noodle kogel and banana bread pudding without a problem - note all small pan items.  When I tried to bake cookies, I discovered a design flaw.  My cookie sheets took over almost the complete rack.  Should be no problem, right?  Not right.  The first batch I tried baking on the "bake" setting.  My cooking time was 17 minutes.  When I went to pull out my cookies, the ones in the upper left corner were browned (beyond where they should be), but the other cookies were not even slightly browned.  I had to remove the pan or have burnt cookies in the back.  I tried another batch using "convection bake multi rack".  The results were even worse.  The cookies in the back on both sides were now burning, there was a little color on the outside edges of those on both sides of the oven and a touch along the outside edge of the cookies in the front,but the middle remained very undercooked. The 1st GE tech replaced the broiler unit after noticing that the left side was brighter and on more than the rest of the unit and noting that the temperature was hotter in the back.  I tried baking again after this change.  The results were the same.  The cookies in the back would burn while the ones in the middle were not done.  Another tech and another confirmation that the back was hotter than the rest of the oven, this time it was determined that it was at least 25 degrees hotter.  I figured out that the fan, which is located in the center of the back of the oven, was drawing the air in and then heated air was being pushed out two elongated vents on either side of it straight up the sides of the oven.  This air is at least 25 degrees hotter than the set temperature.  My other ovens do not shoot the air straight forward as this one does and I have no problem baking cookies or anything in a larger pan.  I advised GE consumer relations about the problem and they say "the oven works as designed".  They will not admit there is a problem or offer a solution other than to send out another repair company to come to the same conclusion.  By the way, none of the techs or the consumer relations person cook very much and none baked.

My conclusion is - if you are a baker, do NOT buy this oven.  If you never cook anything in a larger pan, then the oven may be very nice for you.


Since you're paying a lot for a little fridge like this, it ought to work right. Unfortunately that is not what happens with this model. My advice is to avoid it if you have a better option, or be sure to get an extended service contract. These can be purchased at any time.

Poor Design:

* The doors typically pop back open a little when you close them with a push, and the door alarm will not sound if this happens.

* The water dispenser is in a terrible location, as is the icemaker. They get in the way, and both are more trouble than they are worth.

* The plastic cover for the deli tray attaches to plastic pegs to crate a hinge. These pegs get stressed and break pretty easily, just from regular use. The deli cover will start popping loose and then the pegs break.

Known Water/Ice problems:

* Food in the back of the fridge routinely freezes even with the internal thermostat set at 38 degrees F. I've found other Kitchenaid fridge owners mentioning this problem online. One suggested solution is to not use the icemaker, but that hasn't worked for me. Items at the back of the fridge tend to freeze.

* Worse, after a year of use the drain system clogged and iced up, which requires significant effort or a professional to fix. The condenser is constantly removing humidity to a drain that terminates in a pan under the fridge where an evaporator (heater) is supposed to disperse it into the outside/room air. If the drain line clogs it will ice up, and then the newly draining water will pool in the bottom of the freezer. You may not notice this until there is a large sheet of ice at the bottom of the freezer and incoming drain water is going over the ice and out the freezer door onto your floor. This isn't all that obvious, so like me the first thing you might notice is your wood floor warping and sinking under one of the front feet of the fridge. To clear the drain everything has to be removed and the fridge shut down to de-ice. Then you can snake the drain line or flush it with air or water. If the icing resumes, you probably have a broken evaporator.

I had this icing problem just as our 1 year warranty was expiring. Fortunately it still covered us, and we bought additional 5 year coverage. I'm adjusting my rating up to 3 stars since the problem was not too severe, but finding out it's a common problem -- and in the first year -- seems to indicate an engineering fault.

Conclusion:

After a year and a half of ownership requiring service for repairs, I'm revising my rating up to 2 stars. Repairs took care of everything but the tendency for food in the back of the fridge to freeze, although a certified Kitchenaid repairman hoped that adjusting the doors and seal would help. It's possible the front door seals are simply inadequate or there is another problem causing the freezing inside the fridge at a 38 degree temperature setting. Either way, it and the other things mentioned above seem to be engineering faults that are common to this model. It is serviceable with luck and care, but I do not like or recommend it.


I am writing due to the piece of crap Cabrio we purchased exactly 4 years ago this week:
This was the review I wrote after having this piece of crap one month:
I bought the Cabrio on 10/9/06 and by 10/23/06 it was not working properly. I contacted Whirlpool on 11/9/06 and they informed me that they needed to send a repairman out. It has several problems. The load is out of balance (UL) or I get an error "F51" every single time I try to wash a load. My husband and I are the only ones in our household so the machine is not abused (By teenagers etc). The repairman was at our house for 3 1/2 hours on 11/14/06. He ordered a wiring harness, a computer board and a censor for this 1 MONTH OLD MACHINE. I called Whirlpool in frustation simply asking them to take this LEMON back. They offered nothing and they were quite rude in the process. They said my only option was to have my machine repaired....and so the circle begins.
Our last set was a Maytag and we had the set (still are using the dryer) for over 12 years. Boy how we regret going to Whirlpool. Please take my advice and SAVE YOUR MONEY. I would hate for anyone to go through what Whirlpool has put us through.
BTW...my BRAND NEW machine is sitting idle until the repairman can come out IN A WEEK (for another 3 1/2 hours) to put in these parts that he HOPES will work.
UPDATE:
It is now exactly 4 years later and the only reason I suffer with this machine is due to the fact we PAID SOOOO MUCH MONEY FOR IT!!
The front is now rusted out!!! YES, RUSTED OUT!! And, it takes me about a day to wash ONE LOAD of Laundry...I get an "F1" (I believe it should be FU) about 4 times at the beginning of a load and then when it goes to rinse I get an F1 again approximately 3 times!!  Sometimes I have to start from scratch with an entirely different setting.
The only satisfaction I've gotten over the past 4 years is writing horrible reviews on your product and making sure everyone I talk to about laundry (and it's a lot more times than any normal person should have to talk about laundry!!) how they should NEVER spend a dime on a whirlpool!
This is an absolute piece of crap and I cannot believe you have never done a thing to rectify this situation!!
So sad that you could have and should have taken care of this FOUR YEARS Ago!
When my husband calls your useless 800 number he just gets sent around in a big circle and then is told you are CLOSED.
I will never buy another Whirl pool product as long as I live!!
Please do something about this piece of crap taking up space in my laundry room and BEEPING at me ALL DAY LONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


The Amana AER5830VAW Self-Cleaning Electric Range has been an excellent appliance so far.  This is the first time I've owned an Amana, but I've owned/used several Whirlpool, Maytag, and GE ranges.  Of course, these days many are all manufactured by one or two companies.  The AER5830VAW has a good combination of aesthetic design and useful features.

I consider the look and design of this range to have a bit of a modern feel with classic details.  The glass ceramic cooktop is sleek and inviting.  The top of the range with the knobs and control center is a bit more classic.  It does have an easy touch digital control center for timers, oven temperature, etc.  The front of the unit is fairly standard, but I really like the extra-large oven window.  That combined with a bright interior light gives you a great view of what is cooking without having to open the door.

The glass ceramic cooktop is great.  So far, it's been easy to maintain and clean.  The heating elements heat up very quickly.  The AER5830VAW includes two 6" and two 10" elements with a good amount of spacing in-between them.  If you are used to the standard heating coil ranges it will take a little getting used to, but I've really been enjoying the quick heating elements of the Amana and more even cooking.

The oven itself seems spacious and includes two racks.  It has 4.8 cubic feet, which is standard or a little larger I believe, but it feels like it has plenty of room.  While the self-cleaning feature isn't really anything new, it is nice to have and is adjustable based on how much cleaning needs to be done.  Again, the large viewing window is definitely a nice addition.  I felt like the oven was a little slow to preheat, but that could have just been my excitement (guess I should remember that a watched pot never boils).  It has timed bake, as well as the ability to do a delay bake.  The custom broil option is also nice, allowing you to broil delicate items at a lower heat.  The oven door is nice and sturdy as well.

One downside is the storage drawer on the bottom.  I've noticed that just about every manufacturer has started to neglect the storage drawer, using just a small flimsy system.  Storage compared to my older range was probably cut in half, or at least it feels that way.  Upon opening the drawer it doesn't stay on track as well and isn't really smooth at all.  Again, this seems to be a trend with ranges today and not just this Amana model.

Overall, the Amana AER5830VAW is a nice looking unit that provides some great features.  I'd give the unit five stars on the most important features: the oven and cooking surface.  I really hesitated on whether to give it four stars or five stars overall.  While the storage drawer isn't vital to the operation of the range, it did give it a bit of a cheap feel.  Had the drawer been sturdier and the design a bit more modern I would have gone five stars all the way.  But overall, I don't think you could go wrong with this range for its features and cooking ability.


Several of my frequently used CONTROL PANEL "dimple" buttons had their outer plastic covering/labeling crack off.  They mechanically still worked but you could not read the button's function.

Easy to replace, but you must ******DISCONNECT ELECTRIC POWER AT BREAKER!******  The power that feeds the control panel and the door switch are exposed when disassembling.

- This part is WHITE, don't make the mistake of ordering wrong color.  They come in BLACK (W10083050) & BISQUE (W10083049)

Disassembling:
There were instructions on how to slightly modify the control panel circuit "tabs", if you have a 2005 or older model.  I did not need to do this.  There were NO other instructions.  Here's what I did to replace new panel.

*******FIRST THING!!!! OPEN THE BREAKER FEEDING THE DISHWASHER AT YOUR POWER PANEL**********

1 - Remove only the six (6) upper door screws .  Two (2) each @ door latch, top left & right (Torx size T-15)
2 - Remove control panel from door only enough to expose door latch switch and circuit board cover.
3 - Remove the circuit board cover - Release the three (3) latches to remove cover.
4 - Remove the door latch switch - Release the two (2) tabs to remove switch. (I did this with my fingers but a small screwdriver can also be used for removing all tabs.)
5 - Remove the door handle cover.  This is about a 4" narrow piece of plastic located underneath where the door latch switch assembly was located on the old panel.  YOU WILL NEED TO REUSE THIS PART ON THE NEW PANEL.  There is no need to by a new one.
6 - Remove the circuit board cover - Release the three (3) latches to remove cover.
7 - Remove the circuit board - Release the two (2) latches at the circuit board which are located toward the door latch end of circuit board.  Be careful not to damage ribbon tape pin connector on the circuit board.  Slide circuit board out of "old" pane.  Hold the old panel and circuit board closely until disconnecting pin connector
8 - Disconnect pin connector by sliding away from circuit board.  I used my finger nail to GENTLY pry apart and then gently pull apart.

Re-installation:
1 - Modify tabs if needed per enclosed directions.  I did not need to perform this.
2 - Re-install old door latch handle onto new panel.
3 - Re-install door latch switch.
4 - Reconnect ribbon tab to pins.  There are slots on the circuit board that coincide to tabs on the connector to guide the connector into position.
5 - Re-install circuit board.
6 - Re-install circuit board cover.
7 - Install the six (6) screws.  Do not over-tighten because the connections could break.
8 - Close in the breaker at your power panel.
9 - Check for proper operation.

I hope this info helps.

This is an easy DIY-er repair but you are working with electrical.


I am writing this review three years later because we are still upset we bought this unit.  Sure I save a few bucks buying this online, but the headaches were not worth it.
The oven broke the first time we used it (broken ignition lighter).  Good news was that it was covered and repaired it rather quickly. However, at the same time I complained about the burners not looking like they are were emitting a high enough flame and not heating fast enough.  Guy told me "no, that's normal".  After several more calls they sent the guy out again.  He blamed the new kitchen contractor / installer now and said we weren't getting enough natural gas to the unit.  Call the the kitchen guy back who tested everything and narrowed it down to the range/over.  Finally after demanding answers over a couple of weeks it turns out they sold me a natural gas oven that was set up for propane.  Not sure why or if it was previously sold, but that's why the burners weren't allowing enough natural gas through.  Each and every of the six  burners needed to be retro fitted back to a gas assembly.  Oh the parts.... back ordered from Italy they told me.  From the time I had it installed to the time it actually worked; it took months.  The whole time getting the run around from some shifty sounding guy in Brooklyn with a Philadelphia phone number.  That was the seller HCCost. While they did eventually fix the problem (at no cost to me); the whole thing was sketchy.  Fast forward three years later and the burner assemblies never seem to sit on the range properly and click all the time.  Every time we clean the range I need to take 10-15 mins to align the burner assemblies because the moved somehow and constantly click click click trying to ignite.  If one is off kilter; they all click click click endlessly.  Even after you shut the burners off.  While the unit is nice and big and looks nice; it was a bad purchase for us.
Ordered on October 9, 2014
Delivered on October 16, 2014
Installed on December 19, 2014
First use was December 24, 2014
First repair visit January 22, 2015
Second repair visit January 26, 2015
About 10 phone calls and emails in February and finally I had to make threats using MasterCard , Amazon and Better Business Bureau.
March 26, 2015 told parts are in and they can schedule me for repair.
April 2, 2015 I was told they would be out that week.
April 7, 2015 Range finally repaired and operational.
Would you buy from this over ..................?  The manufacturer Adco was completely "blow off the customer" attitude the whole time.  Looking back I can't believe I was as patient with the situation as I was.