Reading all the other reviews of this product......you have to blame the error of the customers and not the product itself.

If you have ever owned a Wine Fridge.....you know it is NOT a refrigerator....that is not its purpose. If the other reviewers wanted a beverage holder that was able to keep food in it or keep beverages below 40degrees....then they should have gotten a REFRIGERATOR...not a wine fridge/chiller.

So knowing that....let us give an honest and realistic review of this item based on what it was actually designed for.

This unit while not the highest frills of wine chillers is attractive with a stainless steel trim on the door and a glass front and a black body. The door is reversible and it has an internal blue LED interior light you can turn on/off depending on your mood. It does not have a Temperature indicator with a simple dial for temperature with MIN to MAX indicators. It is simple and attractive.....and given its price....thats to be expected. I purchased a suction cup thermometer that faces out and mounts to the interior of the glass door for like 2$.

It comes with 4 adjustable racks and the nice bonus of a bottom storage area rack that has not been present in other wine chillers I have purchased. It allows you to stack cans on the bottom on their side so they don't roll out.

My unit is new and I purchased it as it is replacing an old Urbina thermoelectric wine chiller that finally crapped out after 2.5 years (It was dirt cheap so no big whoop). We will see if this unit is the exception.

Lets be honest......these units don't tend to last more than 3 years on average so if you are worried about that a higher end unit may be to your liking....but you will pay a pricey premium for actual fridge-like beverage centers like GE's.....or just invest in a long extended warranty so you can be re-imbursed should it fail within 3 years (this is what I did).

This unit unlike my old model has an actual compressor and sealed coolant system which is a luxury at this price range....usually you are getting a thermo-electric cooling system at prices below 200$.

I will update my review in the coming months but so far my unit on MAX is cooling better than expected with an average of 33F below room temp:
(Current Results = Room Temp - 75F / Cooler Temp - 42F )
* NOTE: Cooler is in a shaded corner away from direct sunlight...and this is also one of the 'newer' models in stores now.

Hopefully this informed and realistic review will help others. This is good unit for the price if you want a beverage chiller. It is similar to units they use at bars and convenience stores on or near the counter. Your beverages will be chilled but they will not be ice cold. Your white wine will be in the perfect temperature range (depending on the temp of your home or room)......which is exactly what this unit was designed for.


Do not buy the GE Cafe Stove/Range!!!  Nothing but problems..... I wish there was an option for zero or no stars!

I bought the GE Cafe all gas range in May.  First time I used the oven, it shut off automatically.  No error code displayed - just the digital clock was illuminated.  This same problem occurred over and over again - at 350, 375, 400, and 425 degrees.  Sometimes it would shut off in the pre-heat cycle, but mostly while I was baking or cooking dinner.  Incredibly frustrating and a few baking recipes were ruined.  Repair Technican came out - said needed new control panel.  But the panel was back ordered.  GE replaced the stove under warranty at the end of June.

We were away for all of July and August.  Started using the new range beginning of September.  This 2nd GE Cafe stove is even worse than the first one - this range has 5 problems.
1)  This oven also shuts off automatically while trying to bake something in the oven.  Cancel button has not been touched - often goes off when I am out of the room - so I know it wasn't accidentally stopped.
2)  All six knobs across the front have melted - they all need to be replaced.  But I wonder if the replacements will melt as well in the future???  I have never broiled - and GE thought I had this problem because I had broiled something.  Realistically - I should be able to broil without the knobs melting!
3)  One of the burner knobs turns on whenever you touch it - you don't have to push it in to ignite the pilot - it turns on with a mere touch - very dangerous as it can be turned on without you realizing it.
4)  The oven door does not line up properly - there is a larger gap on one side compared to the other
5)  Gas leaks out of one of the top burners - even when the indicator knob is in the 'Off' position!  So we now have the stove disconnected because we don't want gas leaking into the kitchen and house.

GE wants to repair all the problems.  But the Control Panel is still on back order and won't be here until the middle of November - it was ordered on Sept. 17th.  So I don't have a working oven until the middle of November and that is only if it arrives on time - they won't guarantee arrival of the back ordered part.

The valve to stop the gas leak is supposed to arrive at the end of next week - so another week without a stove or cooktop.  Can't run the gas because it leaks until new valve is installed.

I wish I had never bought this stove.  And I am not the only person experiencing these problems - many others have documented the same issues.  Why doesn't GE fix this before they keep selling this defective model to unsuspecting customers???


god, I hate this thing!  Although this is supposed to be a washer review, let me just say I hate the dryer (or, as I call it, "the wrinkle machine") as much if not more!

This is not an indictment of front loading machines.  I purchased early models of Maytag front loaders, and for years, and was thrilled with them.  If I could afford it, these Whirlpool Duet bad boys would be out on the curb in a heart beat.  They are beyond worthless and destructive to my very expensive clothing and linens.

I realize this is anecdotal evidence...just my experience.  First, thing I noticed was that family laundry that used to take me about half a day, now took all day.  WEIRD.  Maybe these were more efficient  and ecologically friendly.  BUTTTTT, My colors were fading out.  My towels didn't feel good.  For the first time in my life, my heels were dried out and cracking. Ok, so it took me a while to figure out that, at least, all the soap wasn't rinsing out.

I wound up doing an experiment today....didn't start out that way.  Had a huge load of towels to do.  (and, NO I didn't overload the drum)  Used All Free HE.  ( AND, before you jump on ALL as an issue...have had same issues with Tide, All N Hammer, etc.) There are 4 lines on the little detergent cup.  Three lines really close together and then a 4th about a quarter of an inch up.  If you believe the ALL people, I should use line 4 for a maximum load.  I'm a cynical individual, so didn't use that line;  didn't even use line 3; went between line 2 and 3.  Gotta have "some" soap...yes?

Happened to walk into laundry room during rinse/spin.  Suds were rinsing out.  Let cycle finish.  Flipped over to Rinse/Spin cycle.  30 minutes, wow, to rinse and spin.  Fewer suds, but water still not running clear.  Did it again.  Fewer, but still some suds.  OK...so that's one wash, then two additional rinse cycles.  After I finish writing this, am going to go do another.

I don't even own the exact same model as this review, but I googled "I hate Whirlpool Duets"  Found this discussion and Found this:[...]

If you go down to the last post, it's just hysterical.  Guy who has a Used Appliance business.  Needs to fix things and then resell them, started getting a flood of Duets.  Couldn't find anything wrong with them.  People just dumping them.  I think says it all!


The set was purchased as a gift for me by my husband in an effort to make laundry easier (larger capacity = less loads) and be more effecient - it uses 1/3 the amount of water my un-he top loader did.  He purchased the wfw9200sq elec. dryer as well.

While it was being delivered from Lowe's the installation man told me "be ginger with the doors, they break a lot, but a lot less than they used to."  Okay.

The machine worked great for 5 days, then at 6am with much laundry to be done, I pressed power, put in a load, added the soap to the cheap plasticky soap dispenser (which I figured would be the first thing to go on the machine) and BEEEP BEEEEP BEEEP!!!!!  F 26 flashes on the machine three times.  So, I tried again.  BEEEEP  BEEEEP BEEEP  F 26.  Then I unplugged it.  Then I tried it again.  Then I called Whirlpool who said to unplug it.  Which I did.  BEEP BEEP BEEP F26.

 "What does that mean?" I ask..

"Don't know" she said.  "Never heard of F26 coming up on a display."

 The she said they would dispatch someone in ONE WEEK.  I explained that would not do, this machine was only a few days old.  They gave me a priority service call (which I did not pay for) and the guy came the next morning.

He showed me a combination of buttons to push to get into some diagnostic mode to remedy the issue but assured me this was a fluke and would not happen again.

"What does F26 mean?"  I asked.

" It's a door thing", he said, "but it's no big deal.  Won't happen again."

" Why doesn't the phone-in customer service guy tell you the button combination and save the service call?"

I ask.

"Don't know" he said.

He leaves and literally 20 mintues later... BEEEP BEEEP BEEP F26 error.  I tried the diagnostic code trick.  Still with the "F26" error.

Then I tried to call the service man on his cell phone 3 times and he didn't answer.  Then I called Whirlpool.  They said they could send someone..... in ONE WEEK.

I went back to Lowes that day and asked that it be returned.  I got a whirlpool cabrio top loader (thinking I would avoid the front loader door problem altogether) which was close to $1000 cheaper -- it is extremely loud, but no operational problems with it so far.

Bottom line, maybe I got a lemon, but 5 days of regular use and the thing blew up.  It was quiet and did clean the clothes nicely and spun them almost dry so that the dryer need not run excessively.  But I still wouldn't recommend it.  $2500 for the pair is a lot of money.


KITCHENAID RANGE COOLING FAN
1.  This KitchenAid cooling fan starts blowing as soon as the oven is turned on, and runs until the oven is turned off, or the convection mode cool down completes.
2.  This range cooling fan exhaust area is 8" above the floor and 27" long and reaches at least 5.5 feet out from the front of the range.
3.  Anyone in the kitchen while this KitchenAid oven is in use, is subject to a "breeze" on lower legs and feet.
4.  The KitchenAid fan exhaust breeze may not be as aggravating in cooler weather, but possibly will be a major issue in warmer weather.
5.  Based on friends with competitor ranges, this KitchenAid cooling fan is louder, more annoying, and distracting than those models. We had to increase the volume of the TV in the kitchen to compensate for the fan noise.

After using the oven just once, we told the dealer that we wanted to exchange it for a different manufacturers' range.  We would not recommend that this KitchenAid model be considered.

KITCHENAID RANGE CONTROL PANEL
1.  This KitchenAid control panel design is awkward and inconvenient. The front panel is tilted at a shallow angle, close to vertical. This makes the panel more difficult to observe and operate when cooking at the range top or using the oven. In order to adequately observe and correctly use the control panel, you have to stand back from the range or bend down/crouch down each time.
2.  This KitchenAid control panel is located directly above the oven door. With the oven in use, opening the oven door, allows moist, hot air to billow out and up onto the control panel. Moisture condenses on the panel...and drips onto the floor.
3.  Yes, you could wipe off the control panel to control condensation every time that you open the oven door, but this increases the opportunity to touch a control point and accidentally modify a setting.
4.  A reasonable person could question what effect continual exposure to steam and moisture will have on the useful life of the panel and its electrical components.

POTENTIAL  SAFETY  ISSUE - Easy to accidentally turn "on" the controls.
The shallow angle of the KitchenAid control panel (there's that panel issue, again) positions the top cooking element control knobs very close to where you will be leaning when you reach up to an overhead cabinet. It is very easy (critically easy?) to contact the cooking element controls - push one in - and turn the knob into the "high" position with a slight twist of the upper body...and have a burner heating up quickly. We were in the preparation stage (nothing in the oven or on the top cooking elements) when my wife reached into an overhead cabinet for something - turned slightly to the side to place it on the countertop - and accidentally turned on a cooking element. It is frightening to imagine what could have happened to a cooking magazine, cook book, food carton or towel placed on that cooking element had we left the kitchen area for even a short period of time.


my first email...

Hello,I am so mad right now!!!Here I go and spend over 2000.00
> on a new Frigidaire Refrigerator and Gas Stove\Oven and half a year later
> the stove is rusted.  The metal burner grates were not painted on the
> bottom.  So any liquid that got under neath them caused them to rust.  So
> now, not only are the bottoms of all the burners rusted.  The top surface
> of the stove's painted has been damaged where the rusty burner grates
> were sitting and it is now rusted.  Basically, I either have have to
> repaint the bottom of the burner gratess and the top of my cook top.
> (This will require much time prepping the surface and I will have to
> purchase the heat resistant paint.)  Or,  Frigidaire the company is
> going to step up and help me out.  So which is it going to be?
> Regardless of whether to help me or not, please tell your engineering
> dept. to start coating the entire burner grates, not just the bottom. I
> would love to talk on the phone with someone.

and they reply saying they are sorry and are going to send me new grates.  THey suggest I great them with vegetable oil so they don't rust.  see below...

If you notice the bottom of your grates are rusting the bottom surface on cast iron grates is deliberately unfinished to allow high carbon gases, present in iron, to escape during the manufacturing process.  If the gases were trapped it would cause surface blemishes in the enamel finish and increase chipping.  To eliminate or minimize rust from forming do not allow grates to stand in water for long periods of time.  After washing dry the grates thoroughly to prevent rust oxidation from forming.  You may also coat the bottom surfaces of the grates with a vegetable oil, or a non stick cooking spray (remember to wipe off excessive oil before placing on range).  There may be a slight amount of smoke from any excess vegetable oil residue left on the grate when the burner is first used again.  We would like to apologize for any inconvenience you are experiencing

Well they send me two grates in the mail.  I have to reply and ask for two more.  They send me one.  I reply a 3 time asking for the fourth.  Pathetic.

I am so disappointed in this stove and the customer service in regards to making it right.  How dare you suggest that I have to treat the grates with oil to keep the from rusting!  If you would have done some better testing and engineering then I would not have to do anything.  Sure, you can send me replacement grates.  But that isn't going to take care of my stove top which is likely to keep rusting regardless of my new grates.


The GE Profile Induction stovetop is everything I was looking for. Easily cleans with a paper towel and Windex, 100% controlled temperature, evenly cooks, heats up FAST!, in less then a minute completely boils water, looks beautiful with any decor and our pots and pans stay clean on the bottom because no flame is constantly hitting it. Under supervision, I use one piece of paper towel under the pot when cooking to catch any spill overs and to just keep the ceramic top clean. Even on the highest setting surprisingly the paper towel never burns. Amazingly The stovetop doesn't get hot only the pan does and directly under the pan. It's truly like MAGIC!. I don't have to worry about flames catching anything or anybody on fire. It's perfect for the kids to cook. I will never use gas again! What a MESS gas stoves make and how ugly they are with big burners. What a pain to clean a gas stovetop, I will never go back to gas.

Here's what to be careful of...

Never cook without something in the pot because it can overheat the pot and blow out the fuse on the cooktop, according to the directions this can also permentenly break the cooktop. We are being careful of that. I can see how that can happen if something boils dry or burns and overheats. Just like cooking a pan on a flame with nothing in it would really mess up the pan and become over heated.

We are careful about not scratching the cooktop which really won't happen if you are gentle on how you put your pan on the ceramic. Just make sure there is noting under the pan that may scratch and it will be fine. We don't slide the pan on it, we just put it down gently and we also use a paper towel which we probably don't have to use but I feel better using it. No problems.

The only thing I noticed that bugs me once in awhile when cleaning is the control lock does not stay locked, but that's no big deal. it's just a pain to clean over the lock and the on/off buttons.

One thing to beware of is NEVER use tin foil directly under a pan when cooking, it will melt the tin foil and ruin the stovetop. Now a days for some reason foil melts when too hot. Yah I know, who would think but it's happing with all the new appliances and complaints are all over the internet. If heat is applied directly to tin foil it melts. It truly will ruin any appliance that this happens to. You can't get melted foil off without ruining the appliance.

EDIT 6/26/2013
Still LOVE my Cooktop! No problems at all, no scratches, it still looks as good as new, and I figured out the problem with the lock button for cleaning the top without the touch pad turning on was because of me (user error).... I didn't know how to do it and thought there was something wrong with it, theres nothing wrong with it, the problem was that I was not holding down the lock button long enough to lock it. You need to hold it down for a good minute before it locks and to unlock it the same thing.


This cook top is every thing I had hoped it would be. I was replacing another 30" cook top, so all I did was open the breaker, check to see if the circuit was dead, broke the old connection, popped-out the old cook top, dropped-in the GE, reconnected the wiring, closed the breaker, and that was it.  One note, if you downloaded the instructions beforehand: a couple of times the instructions make bold note that if you have aluminum wiring, then you need Al to Cu connectors.  Yep, but the COOK TOP has Al wiring, so if you have Cu wiring you need special wire nuts.  A simple, online check with Lowes or Home Depot, or a call to a local appliance store, to check availability and get three wire nuts for an Al to Cu connection.  For those with a science acumen, it's the galvanic action between the two, dissimilar metals that will cause corrosion--some will, incorrectly, say it's electrolysis, but that requires an electrolytic solution.
A few reviews as to cookware seem moot.  If one doesn't know what magnetic induction is, perhaps one should read-up on it before considering this item.  I recently changed cookware to Le Creuset Tri-Ply because I needed new cookware and had induction cooking in mind, also.  This is excellent cookware.  Lesser cookware will work on this cook top as long as it's of a ferrous material--stainless steel or cast iron.  However, the performance of this cook top using this cookware is outstanding--much better than my ancient experience with gas.  Amazing!
As for the 40 amp power requirement, when I popped the old cook top out, I noticed that the power rating was virtually the same as the GE one.  This cook top ran for years on a 30 amp circuit.  It should have been a 40 amp circuit, but the good ole boy electricians--I'm being generous--in rural East Texas used a 30 amp circuit and the old cook top never tripped the breaker.  Induction cooking has to use less power than an electrical resistance cook top.  Yes, induction and resistance are related, but using electrical resistance to heat has to be right up there with a wood-burning stove as to inefficiency.
Short version.  Get this cook top and some Al to Cu wire nuts.  You'll have no buyer's remorse.
BTW, instead of paying out the nose for an induction plate (hob) for use with your non-ferrous cookware, just get a cast iron griddle--preferably one without the built-up ring on the bottom. You're have to deal with the high specific heat, and resulting "thermal battery" of cast iron, but you won't need to use it that much. It's something that you'll probably want to have, anyway.

One year later: Outstanding!


We put this freezer in our basement. The only outlet we had was a GFI, so I read the manual to see if there was any reason not to plug it into a GFI. There was nothing about plugging the freezer into a GFI in the manual. (For those of you who don't know GFI is, it is the type of outlet you have in your bathroom to create a shorter circuit so that when you drop your hair dryer into the sink you don't die. It's a circuit breaker, just at the wall instead out at your circuit breaker box.) And after putting a little food in it and going on vacation it tripped the GFI. We lost about $500 of food and we can't get the awful smell out of it. And here is where the story begins....

GE support sent a technician out to look at our freezer. He confirmed the awful smell, and plugged it in to see if if was running (and it was). He told me that I shouldn't plug it into a GFI. When I told him there was nothing in the manual he understood why I was upset. A day later GE support called me back to tell me that they would give us a "deal" of $167.50 for a new freezer (plus a shipping fee). They then informed us that we had 30 days to accept their offer (even with eight months left on the warranty) and that it was their final offer. They said that it wasn't covered because it was plugged into a GFI. I explained that the manual said nothing about GFI. They said that the manual says you have to plug it into a regular outlet. After some back and forth I asked the tech if he knew what a GFI was and he fully admitted that he didn't. I asked for his manager, which turned out the be the manager who made the decision. After talking with her a while I asked her if she knew what a GFI was and she immediately admitted that she didn't know. I got the customer service from Ultimate Electronics (where I got it from) involved). Finally GE technical support admitted that they weren't technical and would have an engineer call me. The tech who came out to us called me and we had a very short conversation because we understood each other, and, more importantly, he understood why it should be replaced. Ultimate called GE on my behalf, but they wouldn't give us anything more than this offer. The offer didn't include their shipping fee which would make it more expensive than what we originally paid. The very friendly and helpful Ultimate representative didn't know what to do to help me but they were more than willing to do what they could. A GFI won't trip unless there is a power surge from a device plugged into it. The only thing plugged into this GFI outlet was the freezer.

So we lost $500 worth of food and have a ruined $200 freezer after a couple months of use because GE won't stand behind their product. So we'll go out of our way to avoid buying any GE products after how much this $200 freezer cost us.

Bottom line, I hope you never have to call GE if this freezer fails. GE Support Case #10260539. Honestly, this is the worst customer service I think I've ever had.


I live in an apartment and, although we have a laundry room, there is only one washer and dryer for 8 units, it's downstairs and I had to hoard quarters (6 per load).  I finally got tired of sharing with the neighbors and having such a small window of time to do laundry (i.e. not while I'm at work, not after 10pm, etc).

I looked at washer/dryer combos a couple of years ago and didn't see anything that looked worth the cost.  When I tried again a few weeks ago I came across the LG and was pleasantly surprised by the mostly positive reviews. I spent a LOT of time reading reviews and researching the LG so I was pretty familiar with the pros and cons of the machine by the time I got it.  I was able to order it online while it was on sale and used an additional 12% off coupon that made the price more palatable.  It also let me spring for the titanium version that I just like the looks of.

I've had the unit for about a week now and I am extremely pleased with it.  After a couple of trips to the hardware store (casters, a mixer/y hose and a quick release adapter for the faucet) I was up and running within minutes.  I'm on the second floor and am very surprised at how quiet this machine is.  It actually makes less noise than my dishwasher and, since the neighbors have never complained about that, I'm assuming I'll have no problems with the washer. I was also worried about it dancing across the floor on its wheels (since my designated shopper bought casters without locks and I was too impatient to go exchange them) but I park it on my kitchen rug and it stays in place, no problem.

An entire load takes less time than I expected (after reading some reviewers complaints) and the clothes are perfectly dry once you pull them out of the machine and let them air for a couple of seconds.  I have noticed that items come out more wrinkled then they do in a conventional dryer but, for me, that's a small tradeoff for the convenience.

I put a load in yesterday before I went to work and set the timer to finish about the time I get home.  I walked in the door to the pleasant scent of clean clothes and hung them up - very nice. I expect that I will be doing this most days so the additional time to run a load won't make any difference for me. Also, the added benefit of not having to be home to transfer the load from the washer to the dryer means I can truly set-and-forget my laundry.  I am loving this!

One minor complaint is the child-lock. I don't have children and would prefer to be allowed to take my chances opening the door once the load is complete or on a whim mid-cycle. It would be nice to be able to disable this 'feature'.

All in all, if you've done your research and understand the limitations of this machine (smaller loads, longer cycle times, more wrinkles) and still want one I think you will be very, very pleased with it.


My dishwasher is over 14 yrs. old and still running great, but the top rack had alot of damage to the vinyl and resulting rust.  I didn't realize there was a repair product like this, and it should have been addressed long before the rack was so far gone.  Nonetheless, it seems to have done a good job, although I just did it a few days ago so don't know how long it will hold up.  I think one would definitely get the best results if it was used at the first sign of rust or damage to the vinyl coating.  Also, if you do have alot of areas to be repaired, DEFINITELY get more than one bottle.  In fact, I may order a second bottle to go over the areas again (I was stingy w/ the second coat because the bottle was almost empty), as well as touch up some minor cracks in the vinyl coating of the lower rack, not yet broken or rusted.  Another thing that makes it difficult to repair large areas is the fact that it clumps up very quickly.  I had a jar of paint thinner right there to dip the brush in in order to keep it pliable during use...also recap and shake virgorously often during use.  Even if it doesn't last a long time, it defintely improved the looks of my rusted rack, and it keeps the rust from transferring to your dishes.  The cost is minimal and well worth it in my opinion, even if it's only a temporary fix.  In addition, the company (RusSan Enterprises) was SUPER about fast correspondence, fast shipping and great packaging.  I give it 4 stars rather than 5 because of the fact that it clumps and thickens so quickly, it makes it hard to get full use of an entire bottle.  However, based on initial results and the overall dramatic improvement in the looks of the damaged rack, I WOULD DEFINITELY RECOMMEND THIS PRODUCT AND THIS COMPANY!

UPDATE:  As of November, 2010, the majority of the repairs to my dishwasher racks were still holding nicely from my initial repair job using this product. Some of the most badly damaged areas....large areas that were very badly rusted, almost completely through the wire in places....were just starting to show rust through the applied product, but I think those areas could've been fixed up again with another application.  We moved in Nov. 2010, so I won't know for sure just how long the repairs lasted....perhaps longer than the old dishwasher itself. This is an amazing product!  As I said in my initial review, if repairs would be done at first signs of rust/damage, the results would be even better (nicer looking, for sure, and lasting longer without the need for reapplication).  But, in my experience, it also worked on badly damaged racks, certainly worth a try if you're trying to eek out more use from a dishwasher that still runs but has damaged racks (new racks are quite expensive, more than what the old dishwasher was worth in my situation).  Again and still, I highly recommend this product....quick, inexpensive fix for damaged dishwasher racks!


For those who have used those ineffectual microwave oven/range hood combos, you will find this Broan AP 130 fan/hood with recirculating kit a God-send.  Your house is cleaner and your fabrics do not retain kitchen smells.

I used a triple-filtered recirculating Broan Microtek hood/fan system for about 10 years, and found it acceptable for its nonvented application.  This newer AP130 hood and fan seems to work even better with the Broan recirculating kit.

First, the fan.  The highest setting is certainly less noisy than most vacuum cleaners, and I can hear the TV and people speak from short distances.  I do not mind 10-15 minutes of this fan operating on high at dinner time to keep my apartment free from a lot of grease and cooking odors.  It does not affect my hearing or annoy me especially.  Lower speeds of course, go down to an almost whisper setting.

I seem to think the non-vented technology is a bit better, even though it is the same triple filter as the older Microtek, the 88F available at many on-line filter outlets.  First the air hits the standard aluminum grease trap filter.  Then the air goes through three layers of material, including a charcoal impregnated one.  You must keep changing the three-layer filter often depending on how often you cook smelly, greasy food, from three months to a year.  Each pair of the 88F filters cost around $30 when bought on line. so it is a cheap alternative to a dark greasy ceiling, cabinets (inc. handles) and walls.  Besides the whole home smells better over the long term.  Installation of the filters takes less than 30 seconds, once you become familiar with the process.  Of course, the aluminum grease trap filters last indefinitely.  Do not put the latter in the dishwasher unless you do not mind the discoloration from the detergent.

The AP130 hood itself is tall and deep, giving a great stainless steel dimension to the kitchen decor.  I also bought the Broan SS backsplash which completes the look of the AP 130 and the NDK35830SS recirculating kit for nonvented installations.  The two LED lamps work well at high, however the ones I bought have a high-frequency "vibration" on the lower setting.  No problem there as I just keep it on high.  If I need a night light in the kitchen, I use the refrigerator on-door water dispenser light.  Yes, it is a bit awkward to find the controls hidden under the hood, but it makes the kitchen hood look cleaner without clutter.

I am very happy with this unit with the optional recirculating kit.  Of course, I wish I had ductwork and an exterior wall for my kitchen fan to exhaust the air outdoors.  In that absence of that ideal solutions to kitchen odors, this is the next-best thing.


For those who have used those ineffectual microwave oven/range hood combos, you will find Broan AP 130 hood/fan with recirculating kit NDK35830SS a God-send.  Your house is cleaner and your fabrics do not retain kitchen smells.

I used a triple-filtered recirculating Broan Microtek hood/fan system for about 10 years, and found it acceptable for its nonvented application.  This newer AP130 hood and fan seems to work even better with the Broan recirculating kit NDK35830SS.

First, the AP130 fan.  The highest setting is certainly less than most vacuum cleaners, and I can hear the TV and people speak from short distances.  I do not mind 10-15 minutes of this fan operating on high at dinner time to keep my apartment free from a lot of grease and cooking odors.  It does not affect my hearing or annoy me especially.  Lower speeds of course, go down to an almost whisper setting.

I seem to think the technology is a bit better for the recirculating kit, even though it is the same triple filter as the older Microtek, the 88F available at many on-line filter outlets.  First the air hits the standard aluminum grease trap filter.  Then the air goes through three layers of material, including a charcoal impregnated one.  You must keep changing the three-layer filter often depending on how often you cook smelly, greasy food, from three months to a year.  Each pair of the 88F filters cost around $30 when bought on line. so it is a cheap alternative to dark greasy ceiling, cabinets and walls.  Besides the whole home smells better over the long term.  Installation of the filters takes less than 30 seconds, once you become familiar with the process.  Of course, the aluminum grease trap filters last indefinitely.  Do not put the latter in the dishwasher unless you do not mind the discoloration from the detergent.

The AP130 hood itself is tall and deep, giving a great stainless steel dimension to the kitchen decor.  I also bought the Broan SS backsplash which completes the look of the AP 130 and the recirculating kit for nonvented installations.  The two LED lamps work well at high, however the ones I bought have a high-frequency "vibration" on the lower setting.  No problem there as I just keep it on high.  If I need a night light in the kitchen, I use the refrigerator on-door water dispenser light.  Yes, it is a bit awkward to find the controls hidden under the hood, but it makes the kitchen hood look cleaner without clutter.

I am very happy with this unit with the optional recirculating kit.  Of course, I wish I had ductwork and an exterior wall for my kitchen fan to exhaust the air outdoors.  In that absence of that ideal solutions to kitchen odors, this is the next-best thing.


Our dryer blew the thermal breaker and stopped running. Ordered the parts and it was recommended that the vents be cleaned to alleviate the overheating condition and avoid a vent fire. Found my kit at Lowe's and purchased it there. All of the parts are very well constructed. Heavy plastic adapters, and well made brush pieces. Rods were flexible enough to bend into a U shape. Used the small long brush to do the duct work inside the dryer. Do NOT use the rounder shorter small brush! Attached it to one rod and carefully worked it into the screen slot. Moved it up and down and back and forth to clean out the slot. Then removed the long brush and attached the short round brush to a rod using the enclosed set screws. Went to the back of the dryer and ran this brush in and out several times twisting by hand. Used a vaccume to suck up the loosened dust and lint. No issues. My vent has one 45 degree turn going in then a straight 14 foot run to the outside. NO VENT SHOULD HAVE A 90 DEGREE TURN!! If your vent has a 90 degree turn it is installed incorrectly and should be reinstalled correctly according to code. With the small short brush still attached to rod one I worked it into the vent opening and pushed it by the first bend. No problem. I pushed the rod in manually while turning slightly as I went by hand. When I had most of the rod in the vent, I added another rod. Worked this into the vent and repeated without incident until all 4 rods were attached and I felt the brush pop out the end of the line. There is a drill attachment included with the kit. Its part of the obstruction cleaner. Leave the C shaped piece off and attach the shaft to your rod end and chuck it in your drill. If you can turn the torque setting down on your drill so if the brush gets hung up it will not damage the tool. Start slowly and work up to a slow to medium speed. Do not run the drill at high speed! So not use a large drill! Do not ever run the drill in reverse!! I attached my DeWalt drill, and turned the torque setting to 3. Starting slowly with all 4 rods attached I gave it power until it started spinning. I moved the brush in an in and out motion while I drew out the rods one by one and removed them as I went. No problems. I had a short 5 foot section of flex pipe to connect from the dryer to the vent. I temporarily connected this and ran the dryer. Checking the vent outlet with a piece of tissue on a stick I had great air flow and a ton of dirt and debris came out of the line. Although it shows that you can run the cleaner brush through the flexible piping, do not attempt to do it. Its not worth the time to attempt to hold the pipe correctly and work the tool. You'll never get all of the lint and debris out of the tons of little creases anyway. for a few bucks, replace the flexible pipe. I replaced my flexible pipe with a new one, and put the dryer back into position ready for a load to dry. Its important to actually read the instructions, they are there for a reason and cover all of the issues buyers have complained about that should not have happened.


I had not cleaned our dryer duct in 22 years!  I know, my bad.  It is 26' long (mostly horizontal), with 4) 90deg. bends (not including the 2 elbows in the vent pipe which connects the dryer to the wall), so it is far from the "ideal" vent system.

I had noticed that clothes were taking too long to dry in our Maytag gas dryer, so I did what has worked in the past - I replaced the coils on the gas valve, and even threw in a replacement operating (cycling) thermostat (which had never been replaced).  I did my normal cleaning of the internals of the dryer, including the filter housing; but still the dryer ran too long.

I looked into the outside dryer vent hood, and saw quite an accumulation of lint in the pipe, so I ordered this kit, plus the set of 4 extra rods, due to the length of the duct.  When the kit arrived, I began by attaching a shop vac to the inside end of the vent, and using the brush on a cordless drill from that end.  I used a dust collector drum between my shop vac and the vent, so that the shop vac would not get clogged up.  That worked great by the way!  Anyway, I was able to clean out the 1st 5' of the duct, including 2) 90deg. bends, but that's as far as I could get, the brush was up against an obstruction of some sort.

While the shop vac was running inside, I went outside and could not feel any suction at all at the vent hood, so I knew I had a major blockage.  I left the shop vac running inside, and started using the brush from the outside.  I encountered 2 more 90deg. bends just inside the house, then a long straight run.  I slowly added rods until I had 7 rods in the duct, where I hit the blockage I had encountered from inside.  It would not budge.  Since it was closer to the inside end, I went back inside and put the blockage removal tool on the end of the rod and started adding rods while still using the shop vac from the inside.  I captured the clog and pulled it back to the inside.  It really resisted going around the 2) 90deg. bends, but I got it out in one piece.  It was a hard-packed ball of lint, oval in shape, about 10" long!  Altogether, we removed over 10lbs. of lint from the duct!

After the clog was gone, I used the brush from both ends again to be sure that the entire run was clean.  Now, when the dryer is on, the 3 flapper doors on the outside hood stand straight out, and the dryer runs for a much shorter time!

I am a technician by trade, and have several mechanical hobbies.  I appreciate well-designed tools.  This kit is EXCELLENT!


I am replacing a older dryer with a front loader that mounts on a 15" pedestal.  Because of the additional height, I had to move the wall dryer vent up about 15".  In this home, about 10 years old, the vent is a 4" galvenized pipe that runs up an interior wall and vents through the roof, about 17 feet.  In all of my previous homes, the vent was straight out a concrete wall and only about 8" long.  After I cut the duct, I noticed quite a bit of lint in the pipe.  Since I had just purchased this home, I don't know if the accumulation was just "normal" or if the previous owner had just not been consistent in cleaning the dryer lint trap.  It was much easier to clean the vent now rather than pull out the dryer later so I order this cleaning system.  I had to order the extension kit because I needed more than the 12' of rod included.  The quality of this product is excellent and it comes with the best manual I've ever seen for such a simple and inexpensive product.  The manual clearly shows how to use the system in different situations.  The vacuum adapter fits inside the 4" duct and attached to my shop vac. Virtually no dust was observed during the cleaning.  A port in the adapter allows you to run the rod and the brush up the vent, attaching additional 3' rods as needed.  The instructions say to tighen each joint with pliers and then tape them so they won't come apart if you accidently have the drill set to counterclockwise rotation.  I followed the instructions, but unless you are a total klutz with a drill, you probably don't have to do this.  Even so, tighening and taping and undoing took very little time since there are only a few joints.  I had my wife start and stop the vacuum as I connected the rods and worked the brush up and down the duct with the whole process requiring less than 15 minutes.  I opened my shop vacuum when I was done and was surprised at the amount of lint in there.  The manual (and my new dryer manual) caution that if your wall-to-dryer ductwork is either vinyl or thin foil, you should replace it with the semi-rigid flexible metal ductwork readily available at big box hardware store.  I wasn't aware of this before.  The vinyl and perhaps the thin foil ductwork cannot contain a duct fire.  The thin metal ductwork is nice and flexible but the flexibility inherently reduces the diameter of the duct resulting in less air flow and perhaps longer drying cycles.  More importantly, when you look inside you see that the coils are big lint collectors.  I don't know if I will ever use this system again as I am older and probably won't be pulling the dryer out unless I have to.  But if I have to, I will clean the duct while I'm there.  Great to see such a product like this that is easy to use and does what it says.


This is an excellent and easy to use product.  The whole process from taking parts out of the box to cleaning everything and packing it back took me 30-40 minutes with the cleanup taking the longest.

I knew that 12' of flexible rods that come with the LintEater Dryer Vent Cleaning System would not be enough for my application, so I bought an extension pack from the local Lowe's that had the best price for LintEater extensions.  I used the total of six rods, which is 18' and I had about 1.5 foot from the drill to the vent and about 1 foot came out on the other side.

The manual says that you can clean the vent from the outside or from the inside.  I decided to go from the inside thinking that the brush would push loosened lint outside like it looks in the picture on the product page.  I used the supplied shop-vac attachment to minimize mess, and it worked well.  There was a little lint that the brush pushed to the outside, but there was about 2 gallons of lint in my 5 gallon shop-vac (Vacmaster VWM510 Wall Mount Wet/Dry Vacuum Powered by Industrial 2-Stage Motor with Remote Control, 5 Gallon, 5 Peak HP).  I also pulled a half of a lizard from the vent, but I could not find the second half even after running the system through the vent one more time time.

The manual suggests using a cordless drill with a clutch, I am sure to avoid damage to your duct, but my cordless drill's battery was dead, so I used a corded drill and it worked fine.  You must be sure that the drill is set to turn clockwise or the rods may disconnect inside the duct.

Everyone's project will be different, but I strongly suggest using a shop-vac to minimize the mess.  Lint looks solid when it is stuck inside the dryer vent, but it becomes very dusty when loosened.  I also found that although it is tempting to connect all rods from the start, it is not convenient to use the system with too many rods outside the vent because you end up standing with the drill too far from the vent and the rods create a slack and then twist together similar to how a twisted rope would twist together when you fold it in half.  I started with two rods and connected each next one when all but 5" of the system had disappeared in the vent.  Additionally, the shop-vac attachment is designed for a 2" hose, and the manual does not recommend using smaller diameter hoses to avoid clogs, but my shop-vac has 1 1/4" hose, so I used duct tape to seal the hose against the shop-vac attachment and the 21' hose did not get clogged.

Overall, this is a great product and, if you want to clean your dryer vent, I suggest you give it a try.


We purchased this Emerson Ice Maker at an actual brick and mortar Target store--AFTER reading these excellent reviews on Amazon.com.
We needed it THAT day, and did not want to wait for shipping time.
However, I must admit, I never even knew that an appliance like this was in existence before seeing it on Amazon.

My husband's job keeps him outside all day in the summer, and he was "buying" two large bags of ice daily for his cooler, so that he can have necessary cold water bottles in the heat. Now I make him ice at home, not only saving money at the convenience store, but with much less hassle.

I have encountered a couple of the same "issues" as other reviewers and have this short solution:

1) If you are in a hurry, (altho this is not stated in the owner's manual), when the basket fills with ice before I get to it to take the ice out, and the red ICE sensor light comes on---just take the ice out (I store mine in zip loc bags in the other freezer)---and just touch the silver colored 1-inch long "cold sensor" with your thumb, and it warms it enough for it to immediately go back into the making ice cycle.

2) About the low water signal--I just try to keep pouring water into it periodically, and keep the reservoir filled or semi-filled, so it does not stop making ice (with the red low water signal). It sits on my countertop between the microwave and the dish drainer, so it is no problem as I walk by it to glance over and see what is going on.
This unit makes at least TWO huge bags of ice in a day for me. (I transfer the smaller batches of ice to a big blue "Large" Zip-Loc 15" X 15" bag with handles, and then put it into the other freezer to "harden" and save.)

3)  We do NOT feel that it is noisy as some have commented.  However, our kitchen/living room is a fairly large area, but still--my home Whirlpool side-by-side frig/freezer makes more noise than this little unit.

The shape of the pieces of ice are just like some that you find at Hotel ice makers--partially an egg shape, with a long cylinder hole in the middle. (By the way--our German Shepherd dog prefers these ice cubes to the other ones the Whirlpool freezer makes at home!!) It is a great shape, and seems to keep frozen for quite a while--Our two large bags stay frozen for over 14 hours on the job--in the sun--in 90-plus degree heat in just a standard cooler (NOT a 5-day cooler).

We LOVE this little family friend, and feel that we will make back the money that we invested in it THIS year--based on the amount of commercial ice we HAD been purchasing every summer.

So, we would HIGHLY recommend this very SIMPLE unit.  Not complicated at all.  It's one of those things that I said, "Why did I not think about inventing this???

Hope you enjoy yours also as well!!!


After years of lugging those cold, heavy bags of ice around, and trying to make them fit in the freezer, and pushing stuff around any time I needed ice (I live in South Texas - I need ice all the time), I finally broke down and bought this high-rated ice maker.  I did my homework before buying, and this one sounded tops. I bought it at Target for $109.

I absolutely love it!

Mine is not noisy at all.  When it drops the ice, it does sound like ice dropping into a basket (duh) and afterwards, you can hear the splash of the ice tray filling again.  Otherwise, all I hear is a gentle fan noise, which is a noise I like, especially when it's making me some ice.

I got it home, thoroughly cleaned and rinsed the insides and dried it.  Waited half an hour per instructions and began making ice.  The first ice had a little bit of the chlorine-like/new plastic smell to it, but it tasted like frozen water - no bad taste whatsoever.  This is using water from an under-sink water filter system.  It recommends using distilled water - didn't have any.

I put it on the largest size and it spit out 9 tiny little cubes in 11 minutes.  I was worried.

It was just getting started though!  The cubes got steadily bigger and more densely frozen with each batch.  Helpful hint:  Use cold water or put a few cubes of ice in the water well when you add water the first time.  This makes the unit colder faster and therefore more efficient. Do it both ways and you'll see the difference in the ice when you use cold water.

I ran it for about 3.5 hours and got the equivalent of a big ole bag of ice.  I put the ice in quart-size baggies and they go just about anywhere scattered around in my freezer, as opposed to taking up a ton of room like those bags.  It's like getting a new freezer, too!  And I'll never buy ice again, or worry about my kitchen flooding while I'm at work because of refrigerator icemaker has gone awry.

It only stopped once - when the ice basket got full. I used the cute scoop (comes with) to clear the basket into a baggy, and pushed the power button and it started right back up.

The unit will make a LOT of ice before needing more water, but you can top it off at any time at all without disturbing the process.

A wonderful kitchen tool; I now consider it a necessity!

UPDATED JUNE 2012

Still works perfectly.  Use it at least once a week and stockpile ice that is much tastier than nasty old freezer-made ice!

UPDATED MARCH 2013

I've never had one single moment of trouble with this icemaker and I still absolutely love it.  I did misplace the plug once.  Wrote an email to Emerson and got an entire new plug assembly for the cost of shipping ($5).  I can't imagine why so many other reviewers are having trouble with theirs.  Mine is perfect and has been in use for years now.


I didn't buy my Electrolux Slide-In dual fuel convection range thru Amazon. I bought a Sears Elite dual fuel range. But it was made by Electrolux.
No matter what model you are looking at, you need to find out if the oven light is an old fashioned appliance bulb, or the new halogen bulb. In every model I've looked at since the oven bulbs in mine burned out, they have all been the halogen type.
Here's why:
You should know if you buy this model, or any model of gas or electric or dual fuel range built by Electrolux that when the oven light bulb burns out, it will cost you anywhere from $44.00 to $66.00 to buy the halogen bulb, depending on the model.
This is because Electrolux or who ever supplies the parts requires you to buy the complete light assembly which includes
the bulb. Or it could mean that since the complete assembly must be purchased, the complete assembly must be replaced each time a light bulb burns out. That would mean a service call at a cost of $150.00 to $200.00 to replace a light bulb. And if light bulb(s) continue to burn out each year, my 2 burned out within the first year, this could be an expensive maintenance item that the customer should be able to do themselves for just the cost of an appliance bulb.
The halogen bulb simply pulls out of the ceramic base which would indicate that only the lamp needs to be replaced.
Either Electrolux or the parts supplier is trying to gouge the consumer by requiring them to purchase an expensive part that isn't needed to get a relatively inexpensive part that is needed, or there is something wrong with the light housing assembly requiring the complete thing to be replaced each time a light burns out. I can't get an answer to this because I can't find anyone at Electrolux dealers or Electrolux part supliers or the Electrolux company who can or will answer the questions. And I've tried for over a year and a half now.
I would seriously consider buying a range where a light bulb can be replaced with a bulb instead of the convoluted and
expensive process that Electrolux presents it's customers with.
Also, the electronic control panel went out within 10 months. After it was replaced, the oven temperature was 25 degrees lower than the control panel setting. I called the service tech back. He said there wasn't anything they could do unless the temperature difference was greater than 35 degrees, because the oven has up to a 35 degree adjustment that can be made in the control panel.
I like the look of the range. I love the dual fuel. But I detest a product that is so poorly designed that a simple thing like a light bulb replacement(it's one of the only things that the customer can do themselves on the new ranges)is turned into an expensive hassle for the customer. And I really don't like a company who won't even respond to your questions.


I purchased a Bosch washer (model WAS20160UC) and dryer  (model WTV76100US) set in December 2011.  This is the experience I have had with the Bosch appliances.  It is a vented dryer, not the condensation model.  This review is mostly about the dryer.

Pros:  Stylish (witch makes no difference since the dryer is so poor)

Cons:  This dryer takes very long to dry even small loads.  It  will get warm but not hot.  A Bosch technician measured the temperature of the dryer at 122 degrees Fahrenheit.  But, he informed me that this was normal for this dryer.  In one test; two bath towels, two hand towels, and one facial towel were washed in the washer and rinsed on maximum spin to remove as much of the water as possible.  It took the dryer 1hr. 20 min. to dry the load.  After many phone calls and 3 or 4 service calls, they replaced the dryer.  It performed as poorly as the first. So, I called an electrician to really find out what was going on.  With freshly washed towels in the dryer, he observed the dryer drawing 10 amps (about the maximim rating) for 15 to 20 seconds.  Then it went down to 5 amps for about about 30 seconds (he described it as half heat) then down to room temperature air coming out of the exhaust for another couple minutes.  It repeats this cycle.  At no time does the dryer actually get hot enough to remove the moisture from the load.  It mostly just uses ambiant temperature air to dry the clothes.  If touch the clothes in the middle of the load, they mearly feel slightly warm. While it is not practical for most people to use a clothes line, I think it would be just as effective as this dryer.

The thing that bugs me the most about this whole debacle is this:  Both Bosch and the appliance store had the attitude that I should just accept the poor performance because it is a European design.  I heard many excuses defending an appliance that I truly believe they KNOW does not perform as it should.

If you buy a coffee maker, do you expect it to make coffee in about 15 minutes?  If you buy a blender, do you expect it to blend what you put in it?  Well, when you buy a DRYER, you kind of expect it to actively dry.

In fairness, this washer/dryer set may be suitable for a single person who does small loads of laundry.  You can expect a small load to take 60 minutes to wash and 80 minutes to dry.  So you are right around 3.5 to 4 hours for two small loads.

Update:  The appliance store has taken back the Bosch washer and dryer.  I have replaced them with a GE unitized washer/dryer (model GTUP240EWH)  This dryer completely dried the same load in 30 minutes.

I hope this review is helpful for you.


My hope in writing this review is to keep someone else from making the mistake of purchasing this dishwasher.  We built a new home in 2009 and purchased a complete set of Electrolux appliances, spending over $12,000.  For the most part we are pleased with the performance of the other pieces, but they haven't been "trouble free".  Back to our worst mistake, this DISHWASHER!  I could write a book on the "error" numbers, which were sometimes valid and sometimes "no problem found".  We had problems with a horrible smell, mold inside, and water leaks under the unit.  We burnt through the standard 1 year warranty, and even though the unit had problems from day 1 Electrolux did not offer much assistance.

After another "leak" under the unit I began to research the problem and learned quickly we were not the only ones having issues.  I read about a "repair kit" Electrolux was installing on units still under warranty.  I made one final call to the 800 number and asked to speak with a Manager.  I reminded her that we had spent over 12K with their company and this dishwasher had problems from day 1.  She authorized a repairman to install the kit at their expense.  I had high hopes the problems would finally be resolved.... but the problems were only starting.

Leaks under the unit finally stopped, but the smell, and intermittent "errors" continue to occur.  I even went as far as replacing the control panel at my own expense ($300) since I read this could cause the intermittent errors.  It did not resolve the problems.  We finally came to a conclusion this dishwasher model is junk, and we needed to bite the bullet, and throw away a 5 year old $1,300 appliance.  Being a typical husband, I kept stalling on spending the money... and that was my biggest mistake.

We started the dishwasher and left our home for a couple hours.  Upon returning and opening the front door I could hear the now infamous "error beep".  There was a stranger noise I didn't recognize... somewhat like Niagara Falls.  I entered the kitchen to find water flowing across our hardwood floors and the dishwasher still running.  I made the mistake of opening the door on the dishwasher, in an attempt to turn it off, to find the unit completely full of water.  I ran to the garage and killed the power, but the water kept flowing.  I dived under the sink to reach the valve for the dishwasher and killed the water supply.  This was a new issue, the inlet valve stuck open!  The water had found a route downstairs to our walkout basement by running through the opening for the downdraft under the center island.  I used my Shop-Vac to suck up over 200 gallons of water from downstairs alone.  Our only saving grace was that end of the walkout was not finished yet.  My wife and I agreed the Electrolux dishwasher would never be turned back on.  Today I installed a Bosch!!!!!  The dishwasher from hell is headed for the dump.

Unless you have a fetish for pain and suffering DO NOT PURCHASE THIS DISHWASHER!


I have been pleased with all Kitchen Aide items I purchased in the past, and wanted a double drawer dish washer for my newly remodeled kitchen 5 years ago. My husband and I looked into purchasing this model. At the time, we could find only 2 dishwashers that had double drawers and couldn't find any reviews on either one. Taking our past experience with Kitchen Aide appliances into consideration, we purchased this. We are glad we didn't write a review within the first year. It started out great, although within the second year, our problems started. The dishes weren't coming clean and the drain basket kept popping up. Naturally, my husband thought I was putting the utensils in upside down causing the handles of the utensils to be part of the problem. After having 2 separate plumbers look at this and not being able to locate why this was happening, my husband wanted to purchase another dishwasher, one that didn't have drawers. I insisted I loved the 2 drawer dishwasher but he knew better. As time went on it took longer and became more difficult to get clean dishes. I opted to try liquid detergent instead of powder. This eliminated the problem of soap residue on the dishes & glasses, but it wasn't long before other problems started to happen.  Once again, the dishes weren't coming clean, although this time is was not because of soap residue(the water was hot enough but for some reason many times the dishes looked as dirty as when they went into the machine) and a double wash cycle had to be done. Over the next 3 years problems turned into nightmares with more and more things going wrong. The settings weren't working properly, the water was remaining in one or both of the drawers after washing was finished, the drain baskets were popping up more and more frequently, and the blade wouldn't rotate past the drain basket. Fixing it almost every time the dish washer was used, my husband once again wanted to purchase a new dish washer but again, I loved my 2 drawer option and insisted on continuing to empty water residue out of the washers when I had to and pushing the drain basket back into place. Last evening I changed my mind as I was now disgusted with my dishwasher. The water in the top washer looked like dishes sitting in a bucket of water. The blade wasn't turning and this time the water wouldn't drain at all. It was definitely the dish washer and not the pipes as the sink was fine. A once die hard Kitchen Aide purchaser, I began losing my faith in Kitchen Aide large appliances. I am now in search for a new dish washer. After coming across the reviews for this, I wish we had known before what I know now.  I am writing to let those who may want a double drawer dish washer to think twice before purchasing this. It is nice looking but that doesn't clean dishes & silverware! P.S. I give this 1 star for looks only, as for performance, I give this 0 stars!! Sometimes purchasing an expensive item doesn't always mean it is better as we found out with this.


I wanted to add my two cents since I appreciate this posting because it has helped me save my fridge and I have done a lot of research since then. The first thing you should do is a continuity check on the three compressor terminals to see if any of the leads are shorted together. If they are then you need to replace the compressor since the transformer windings are shorted. If the compressor is ok then its likely the Overload Heat Protect part which is failing likely because theres a design flaw with the part. I was able to remove mine then reinsert it to get the freezer to work again though it didn't work well (compressor kept turning on and off and when I replaced it the compressor is staying on). But it gave me enough time to order a new part. The part sells for less than $9 on ebay. Do a search for these part numbers since they will all work for the 110V part: 6750C, 4387913, 2154759, 4357207, 4387766, 4387836, ER4387913, AP3108669, PS371538, SZ4387766, 77600, 586521, AH371538, EA371538. The 110V part is cheaper (has the terminal in the center vs off to one side like the 110V part). Now the 220V part is cheaper (less than $1 each from China) and may work but I was concerned that it could draw less current than the 110V part needs but it could still work so you might want to try it. Do a search for this part number on ebay: R600A. If the Overload part isn't the issue then do a search for QP2-4.7 3 pin or 4 pin and they sell for under $4. In addition I was able to get the manufacturer to send me the two parts since the freezer was still under warranty (it was either that or ship the freezer out which would be a huge shipping fee). Happy hunting!

Update on this. My freezer stopped working 1 week after I replaced the Overload Heat Protect part so I replaced the QP2-4.7 3pin Start Relay and its been weeks and its going strong. I also re-installed my old Overload Heat Protect part that I could shake and it made the shaking noise and it works fine. The diagnoses that a shaky Overload Heat Protect part shows you the part is bad is dead wrong. Its the Start Relay that was replaced which is defective and they are really cheap to buy (likely why the fail so often!).

I actually still had the freezer under warranty but they said I had to ship the freezer to Canada at my expense. I asked them to just send me those to parts and I am still waiting for them..waiting Finally got a reply from them and they said they don't carry the two parts. If this is true, this means they aren't repairing anything. It is a SCAM since the parts are readily available and a huge percentage of their freezers have this defective Start Relay! I called them threatening to raise a class action law suit against them but could tell they aren't going to do anything because this is what the lady said. If anyone does sue them, count me in..


Reading all the other reviews of this product......you have to blame the error of the customers and not the product itself.

If you have ever owned a Wine Fridge.....you know it is NOT a refrigerator....that is not its purpose. If the other reviewers wanted a beverage holder that was able to keep food in it or keep beverages below 40degrees....then they should have gotten a REFRIGERATOR...not a wine fridge/chiller.

So knowing that....let us give an honest and realistic review of this item based on what it was actually designed for.

This unit while not the highest frills of wine chillers is attractive with a stainless steel trim on the door and a glass front and a black body. The door is reversible and it has an internal blue LED interior light you can turn on/off depending on your mood. It does not have a Temperature indicator with a simple dial for temperature with MIN to MAX indicators. It is simple and attractive.....and given its price....thats to be expected. I purchased a suction cup thermometer that faces out and mounts to the interior of the glass door for like 2$.

It comes with 4 adjustable racks and the nice bonus of a bottom storage area rack that has not been present in other wine chillers I have purchased. It allows you to stack cans on the bottom on their side so they don't roll out.

My unit is new and I purchased it as it is replacing an old Urbina thermoelectric wine chiller that finally crapped out after 2.5 years (It was dirt cheap so no big whoop). We will see if this unit is the exception.

Lets be honest......these units don't tend to last more than 3 years on average so if you are worried about that a higher end unit may be to your liking....but you will pay a pricey premium for actual fridge-like beverage centers like GE's.....or just invest in a long extended warranty so you can be re-imbursed should it fail within 3 years (this is what I did).

This unit unlike my old model has an actual compressor and sealed coolant system which is a luxury at this price range....usually you are getting a thermo-electric cooling system at prices below 200$.

I will update my review in the coming months but so far my unit on MAX is cooling better than expected with an average of 33F below room temp:
(Current Results = Room Temp - 75F / Cooler Temp - 42F )
* NOTE: Cooler is in a shaded corner away from direct sunlight...and this is also one of the 'newer' models in stores now.

Hopefully this informed and realistic review will help others. This is good unit for the price if you want a beverage chiller. It is similar to units they use at bars and convenience stores on or near the counter. Your beverages will be chilled but they will not be ice cold. Your white wine will be in the perfect temperature range (depending on the temp of your home or room)......which is exactly what this unit was designed for.


I never trust 1 star reviews on a product, especially when they are few compared to units sold.  I'm glad I didn't in this case either.  I'm actually writing a review on THIS dishwasher, the LDF6920ST.  Not one that I got with a house I rented that looks like this product that may or may not be it.  Not a different model that has the same design as this one.  This one.

We've had a "top of the line" all the bells and whistles GE dishwasher that we tossed an extra $1000 in at closing for when we had the house built 5 years ago.  5 years of pure hell from an appliance.  We finally decided enough was enough and purchased this, as 2 family members have them and have really loved them.

This is one heck of a machine, honestly.  Cascade Tabs, Jet Dry, and hot water is all it takes.  I'm not sure why anyone would complain about a dishwasher leaving dishes spotty or streaky while knowingly not using a drying agent.  That's not the dishwasher's fault.  They invented that stuff because, guess what, most water dries spotty.  Minerals in the water cause it, not a defective dishwasher.  Yes, you actually have to open the little door and pour it in about once a month, but aside from that exhausting labor it's worth it for streak free dishes.

Cascade is the best I've ever found, and I've tried just about every one under the sun.  The tabs with Dawn are really nice for greasy pans.  Plus, they are easy to use.  Put in soap cup.  Close soap cup.  Start dishwasher.

I put this thing through the wringer after buying it, because I didn't want a crappy dishwasher for another 5 years.  I'd return it the next day.  I tossed in caked on, stuck on, dried on dishes that had sat from dinner the evening before.  One bowl with the dried remains of guacamole on it (every try to scrub that out, let alone in the dishwasher?).  Clean.  1 run, no pre-rinse or dancing on one leg.  Clean.  Spotless.  Wife was happy.  1st run there was the "new" odor that most heating elements have.  2nd run it had no smell other than the smell of a dishwasher running.

Quiet.  And I mean quiet.  I had to open the door the first time to make sure it was running.

The controls on the top of the door are a personal preference.  If you don't like that, don't buy a dishwasher with it.  Again, that's not the dishwasher's fault.

Run time.  It's 2 hours.  Regular wash, power scrub.  2 hours.  The GE ran 1.75 and the dishes had to be run again without soap to rinse them clean, so 3.5 total.  I think the 6 dishwashers we've used since getting married have all run about that long.  Not a deal breaker for me.

I will recommend this to others, it's well worth it.  I will not, however, recommend a GE.  Maybe I should go find a black one on here that looks similar and write a bad review for it. ;)


I have this stove for over 3 years. I cook on it 4x a week and 3 times on my viking in my second kitchen. I live in Brooklyn and got it locally for (michael (tell them Joe sent you) at 18th ave home appliance 6208 18th Avenue, NY 11204)  $2500 no tax and delivery so it was a steal for the 30". This stove is very very very easy to use, very good on Gas. The oven needs to have the door ajar and be lit for 15 seconds for the child lock. Burners are sealed and cook evenly ( i use 5 ply or 3ply copper base pans). Oven heats evenly and is really easy to clean. Convection oven works great too. The stainless steel quality is great very heavy guage.

Here's some stuff to remember- Some parts don't have numbers and can be hard to get
Get all your parts from where you bought the stove- Save the manuel, it has all the part numbers and they can fax it to the dist.
-You must hook this stove up with a regulator that it comes with
-It looks heavy in weight but is not so thats a plus
-Not as heavy as a viking, I do like wolf, DCS,aga and Jade alittle better- more commerical- stainless oven
-oven is easy clean coated- I prefur stainless
-Very attractive design
-Glass is great quality
-No fridgeare, Bosch, LG, GE, Maytag, Sears, is even close to this stove.
-quality piece
-easy to clean
- Looks like a $3000 stove

Ive seen some negative reviews but its usually from people who don't know how to use it, child locks, clean heat it.

My top choices would be Jade/dynasty then viking then DCS then blue star if you would like to spend $4,000-6,000 then Bertazoni.

You ocassionally see the 24" one in small apartments in Rome.

Stay away from all GE monogram appliances- Fire recalls and they won't replace it- the main board in there dishwashers get wet. Horrible they give you a $300 credit for a $1200 dish washer

Their refridgerators are garbage.

I like Bosch dishwashers, Maytag, LG
Samsung for washers maytag too and refridgerators
LG refriderators
Sub zeros are nice for $6000-9000 but they over heat and usually burn out in the first year.
Fridigare makes good fridges, so does blomberg and Fisher, Sears stuff is usually really good.
Microwaves-sharp carosel, Samsung
toasters-delonghi
Vents/duct systems- Braun.
cappacino-delonghi

These are all reliable products.

Anyone need help just email me Starbuckslova1@yahoo.com
appliance questions- home design kitchen designs ect. Tile design, home design... Im in the Brooklyn NYC area so are these stores. Always happy to help!! Buy it once buy it right!

Home depot and lowes are good for small appliance's microwaves, century 21 for toasters coffee makers eact


I purchased this periscope vent to install as a part of the dryer exhaust cleaning project.  I wanted to replace the flexible vent because I thought that this smooth vent will prevent lint buildup as well as let me move the dryer closer to the wall and make the laundry area look neater.

From the first time I saw this product I was wondering how this adjustable periscope vent could be made airtight to prevent dryer exhaust from escaping.  Well, it is not.  I adjusted and installed it according to the instructions, and then ran the dryer.  I moved my hand along the vent and felt hot dryer exhaust blowing from every gap. This issue was encountered by at least one other reviewer - Melissa D. Felthousen: "we had to pull the unit out and tape the seams of the periscope".  Aside from the obvious drawbacks of venting warm humid air into your laundry room, I believe clothes dryer exhaust contains carbon monoxide, and I do not want to pump it into my home.

After this first test I wish I could return the periscope vent but I have already cut pieces of it that were interfering with the gas line connection, so, I decided to make it work.  I removed the periscope and used Nashua 324A Cold Weather Premium Foil Tape: 2-1/2 in. x 60 yds. (Silver) to tape all gaps.  I reinstalled the vent and tried it again, but still I could feel dryer exhaust blowing around the areas where round fittings connect to the periscope vent's flat surfaces.  I removed the vent again and taped those seams too, which was more work than I wanted to do.  I think it is OK now, but in my opinion it is absolutely not worth the money or work.  Besides the vent not being airtight, I found the periscope's fitting that connects to the wall vent to be too short, I had to struggle with it to stay securely in the wall.

At the end of the project my dryer is closer to the wall, but I don't think any gain in space and neatness was worth the struggle.  Prior to installing this vent, my dryer was farther away from the wall than the washer, but now the dryer is closer to the wall than the hoses in the back allow me to move the washer, so the fronts of the two can't be aligned.

I realize that this type of vent may be the only option for some people but, if space permits, I would recommend considering alternative ways of running the regular tubular vent.  Looking back, I believe I should have used a couple of 90 degree fittings and a short piece of the tubular vent, it would have made the installation quick and simple with no taping required.  I am rating the periscope vent two stars, because at the end it worked, but there were too many problems for me to like it.


Of course you have researched online, or a parts book, or a service center and have the OEM number of part required. Nobody is going tell you it will fit whatever without the make, model and serial number that anyone with an internet connection can then chase down the part number.

That said and according to manufacture cross reference, this evaporator fan (located in freezer) fits several makes including Sears, Roper, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Whirlpool, Estate, etc. part numbers EM343 and 482731.

It also replaces part numbers EA376645 AP3110929, AH376645, PS376645, Y0056721, Y0056801, R0950025, 0056721, 0056801, 1100473, 1100474, 1100992, 1105608, 1105609, 14210061, 14218828, 14218831, 2154419, 2154977, 2169116, 2169143, 2631, 4318001, 4389140, 482470, 482733, 548697, 549420, 8112, 851170, 8537621, 936162, 938117, 938149, 938287, 938292, 938296, 941547, 946653, 989687, 482731.

It arrives with 2 new rubber mounting grommets, 2 new steel sleeves that you may or may not need, 2 #8 screws that you may or may not need and a new push on fan with pressure clip installed that when pushing the blade on, the clip side is opposite of motor and facing you. The wireing may not be identical as in starting from top with say, red, white and green, but the stab blocks (one is smaller) will match up makeing it easy.

If you have never replaced one of these before, watch a couple of uTube videos and there is really nothing to it. If you have one, just make sure you turn ice maker off; usually lift bail up so it is not in the middle of a cycle (you may have to remove ice maker to get back panel out) and unplug the refrigerator before starting the replacement. And of course, after replacing fan and before putting panels back in, plug fridge in and make sure it works.

I just replaced one of these fans at my parents and maybe an hour is all that is required, while it is then a good time to clean out coils (usually underneath and accessed from front and back), then clean the inside by removal of all food, then removal of shelves, drawers, etc., that could easily turn into a 3 or 4 hour job.

When cleaning the coils, it is great time to inspect the coil fan that is down there and usually next to compressor. I inspected the coil fan and compressor for odd noises before ordering this part, because if the compressor was bad on an older fridge, that might be a bit more than the average do it yourself person wants to tackle, but the coil fan is easy and not that expensive.

Nevertheless, you can do this....


Just a little info about me before I review this kit.  I really have no experience with mechanical parts or fixing complex mechanical machinery.  I'm a I.T. and Accountant guy, not a gearhead.  That said, I found Youtube indispensable in helping this newbie to perform this sort of a repair.  I did it because I reasoned, the parts weren't expensive, and what did I have to lose with a washing machine that doesn't work anyway?  I relied on several videos performing the same operation on a Whirlpool top load machine like mine, my machine is 17-years-old.  I purchased it new in 1999.  Earlier in this year I did use Youtube to learn how to replace the "Dog Agits" and that worked well, but replacing a clutch by removing the motor, transmission and agitator was a huge step up for me.  I can't say often enough how grateful I am to the men and women who make such videos for the rest of us.  I wish I could take them all out for a meal and a beer.  They saved me plenty of money by teaching me how to perform these repairs myself.

The repair was fairly straight forward and easy, the hardest part were getting the inner retaining ring seating back down onto the clutch sleeve; that's that hook-like part you see there in the Amazon product listing page.  I did panic when I removed the clutch finger (the larger plastic piece) and out came a steel nail piece that looked like an oversize needle with a hole in the middle.  After googling information about it, it was just a drop pin that the manufacture uses during shipping and is removed when the washer is first installed.  It serves no useful purpose in the everyday functioning of the washer so I was relieved and tossed it out.  While I had the machine apart, I did take time to clean up the grim using a degreaser and rag.  I have the motor coupler parts on order as well.  I ordered them at the sametime thinking it was a good time to replace all of those parts.  But the clutch arrived on time and the motor coupler parts look like they will be a week late so that will get done next week.

I have seen other views on this particular product page stating this clutch did not last long on their machine, so I will hold off giving this kit a five star rating and wait about 6 months.  If this part fails I will drop another star or two.  But at least I feel confortable knowing I can now order a more expensive part in the future and replace it myself.  That, at least to me, keeps my worries at bay.  I had thought this part was an original whirlpool part when I first ordered it and I did not realize it was a third-party part.  Time will tell if it works out for me, but as of right now I have the machine running washing one load at a time, two weeks of laundry that accumulated. That alone will pay for the cost of the kit comparied to going out to the laundromat.


I almost cried when my old dryer died, I hate buying new appliances. But I did search reviews for days and decided on the Amana Ned4500 and I've been happy ever since.

It's a nice looking dryer, bright white, blue knobs look cool. A nice change from black knobs.

There is a setting for 'energy preferred' which I have tried but it's not for me, yet I can see how someone else might love it. My experience with EP has been that no matter what I have in there, tees, towels, just sheets, whatever, they come out a little damp. Now, if you were trying to not shrink something, that would be a great setting! Or if you like to finish with a line dry for that summer scent on your laundry, then the EP (energy preferred) would be an awesome setting! So, I didn't take off for that on my review.

I tend to pick one setting and run with it, so for me it's under Automatic Dry: VERY DRY. I love that setting. It does get everything, no matter what's in there, super dry. I have not seen any unusual wear and tear on my clothing from this setting so I'll keep using it.

You can choose from Timed Dry HIGH HEAT or Timed Dry LOW HEAT. I use high. When the buzzer sounds to let me know the dryer is done, my clothes are good and dry, not wrinkled and are ready to fold.  It also spins the clothes to avoid wrinkles if you miss the buzzer, which brings me to.......

The buzzer. OHMYGOSH It's the LOUDEST, LONGEST dryer buzzer on the planet, imo!  Wow, everyone hears it when it goes off, and it goes off for a while. BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZTTTTTTTT! It's like it's saying "GET IN HERE, I'M DONE!!!! HURRY!"

The buzzer, thankfully, can be turned off per load, which I do use.

The only issue I really have with this machine is the lint screen. No matter how I tried at first, the lint always fell back down before I could get the screen all the way out. You know how a dryer sometimes has that issue? Well, until I 'learned' how to really yank that screen out, the dryer lint ended up in my back yard. haha!  Not a big issue for anyone but my daffodils.  This may not be an issue with all makes and models, but for my specific dryer, I really had to fine-tune taking the lint screen out.

I've done loads of all jeans, no problems. I've stuffed my huge comforter in there, no problem. I've dried (many) loads of just towels as we  have a pool, no problem!

Overall, this is a great buy. Lots of room in there, a very quiet dryer by the way. Simple to use, no light but I've never had one in the dryer.  If you want to save some money and get a dryer that will work for a family, I recommend this one.


For installation I'd give this unit a 3 1/2 out of 5  It does fit into a standard 30 inch cutout (good) but the gas inlet is in the far right rear corner of the unit and that interferes with cabinet installation if the unit is offset from the cabinet as in my case.  The NGM805 does also extend under the countertop more than the unit it replaced, so some cabinet surgery was needed to allow the cooktop to sit properly.  The hold-down attachment hardware was not thought through very well and had to be 'modified' to work properly.

Cooking: this unit gets a 5 out of 5 in my book.  Cooking control is AWESOME.  That's the advantage of gas--you have INSTANT & INFINITE control of your cooking and don't have to wait for burners to cool down as on electric cooktops.  The three sizes of burners let you do everything from large pots to warming chocolate and everything in between.  The previous reviewer "Nice Guy" just had never worked with a gas cooktop before, indeed the very things he complained about are discussed in the user's manual ("Don't use a rounded WOK" and "Don't make the flame larger than the pot being used.") The unit doesn't deserve a lower rating because the user was unfamiliar with the physics involved.  This baby cooks GREAT.

In 'chocolate warming mode' the small 5500 BTU burners can be turned down so low that I can't even see that the flame is on (I'm tall), so it's a good thing there's a light on the front panel that lets you know when the burner is on.  Automatic relight works fine in case a burner is blown out.

The grates are very stable, much more so than the unit it replaced, a 22 year-old Kenmore that had grates that slipped out of position when the pot/pan was tilted for stirring or extracting grease. They were a pain to get seated into position again.  With the Bosch I worry no more.

There's more effective cooking area workspace with the Bosch; the 5 burners give you more flexibility than the 4-burner competitors.

Cleanup: I give it 5 out of 5. No seams and rounded corners on the stainless top make cleanup MUCH easier than the old Kenmore unit.  The burners are raised from the stainless top, keeping the burners free of overspills.

Only gripe:  The control knobs stick up above the level of the grates by about a half inch, so you can bump the knob as you take a heavy pot off the cooktop if you don't lift it up.  Fortunately the knobs are metal and not plastic. (A lady in the store when we looked at this unit had to replace her melted platic knobs on a different make because of this problem)  With the metal knobs this shouldn't be a big problem.


Most of the positive reviews I've read here are about appearance and the ability to clean dishes.  Their is a conspicuous absence of people who like the product's performance, that also write that they've owned their unit for years without problems...  We bought ours 14 months ago, and the console went out after 8 months. The tech showed up and did something, but said he couldn't replicate the problem and suddenly the console worked!  But only for 5 more months... Now the console is completely dead and we have arranged for another tech to come out but will now be paying for it ourselves. In addition to the console we now have standing water in the tub, and the seals on around the unit are not functioning properly. Having been through two repair calls in 14 months we've learned some things about LG by talking with current or previous repair companies, and with LG directly:

1) Service companies we spoke with that used to service LG appliances but stopped, or decided never to work with them to begin with, listed a couple of reasons:
  a. they can't inventory parts for their customers, so they must return a second time - charging customers 2x - to complete a repair once the part comes in.  This is just bad business.
  b. parts must be ordered from LG directly and take FOREVER (we've been told that we are going to be washing dishes by hand for the next 2 weeks while we wait for the part and repairs).
  c. evidently LG is a complete pain in the arse to do business with - 3 of 4 repair firms we called for service said that there is plenty of business and they have chosen not to deal with LG.
2) There appears to be a severe shortage of technicians that are readily available to service our dishwasher.  I've read about this issue from others, and am now living it myself.  We called the
  one service company in our area (that is roughly 18 miles away) early Monday and were told that they would get to an LG repair no earlier than Friday afternoon.
3) LG's service support STINKS.  They tend to be a bit rude/curt.  More importantly, LG's own policy for how they want to support their customers is OUTRAGEOUS!  They want you to call and
  confirm service calls directly with the repair company for yourself etc... every time we deal with them I find myself not believing what they're saying - zero confidence - based on our experience with them.

In a nutshell - we love how our dishwasher looks and how it washes dishes (but in this day and age you can get a 10 year old Maytag to wash well by buying high end detergent and using a rinse) - but it is poorly designed and breaks down LOOONGGG before it should, and LG as a company cannot be trusted to support what it sold you in an efficient manner.  They have a customer satisfaction questionnaire after you call their service center, but it asks all the wrong questions about "how polite and knowledgeable" the call center employee was...as he tells you that his hands are tied and you are on your own with your newer appliance that has broken down again...

NEVER AGAIN WILL WE PURCHASE AN LG APPLIANCE - by the way our kitchen is 100% LG today, but will be 0% 18 months from now...


As everyone else here has said, my Samsung Dryer would run, but no heat. After some quick research on the internet I noticed that a burnt out element was a common issue on these guys, so I Amazon Primed (Aka Magic'd) me one of these bad boys.. 24 hours later, it's showed up at my front door.

So, I decided to take this project on myself. I called around and was quoted about $300 for the install -- Which seemed expensive, but there were very few 'Samsung Authorized' repair shops in my area, and most places wanted diagnosis fees and crap... So, I figured $300 buys A LOT of beer, so I might as well try this out myself.

So, on a scale of 1 to 10, I'd rate the install a 3-4. I would compare the skill set needed for this would be around that to confidently assemble a child's toy and then install a light-dimmer, since the hardest part is really disassembly and being confident that the dryer is unplugged. I actually found a video online where someone does the install from the back of the dryer, but that is not needed. The front of the dryer comes apart VERY easily. The tricky part is pulling the element box out, and making sure the thermostats get connected back properly.

Quick Steps:
1. Take out screws for the top (on the back of the dryer). Slide lid off.
2. Take screws out for control panel. pop out. Unplug (Mine had 2 plugs).
3. Take screws out for front panel (Top). Pull up slowly and out and it pops out. There is a plug here too for the light.
4. Unscrew/Pull out dryer vent duct work.

(Note: At this time, you can use an Ohm meter to test the element. The front two grey leads on the box will be the ones you wanna use. This will make it so if the element is not the problem, you can re-assemble and call an expert and save yourself some time)

5. On the bottom right, there is a metal box. Has 3 screw's and a stand. Take out the screws, and pull out the stand. (The stand has tangs on the bottom that anchor it into the dryer. Might need to squeeze a lil to get it out.
6. As you pull the box out, disconnect the leads to the element, and the two thermostats. Note the color/location of the wires.
7. Have a beer.
8. Open the box, replace element, and then do the steps above in reverse.

Also, make sure you keep track of where the screws went. Some go into plastic, and some into metal. You don't wanna mix those up, and the metal screws can split the plastic.

This is also a very good time to figure out WHY the element burnt out. Check all of your exhaust piping, and make sure the vent flap outside is not stuck/clogged (Which mine was). If there is a lot of lint inside your dryer, it's most likely a blockage issue The reason these elements are prone to burning out is the amount of airflow needed to keep them cool.

Good Luck!!

P.s. Anyone find it aggravating that they have a "Smart" dryer, yet it's too dumb to tell you that the element is burnt out? Silly Samsung.


I only wish I had read these reviews BEFORE I bought this machine!  I bought it from a small local appliance dealer who I've bought all of my appliances from when I redid my kitchen.  He is very well known and very well respected.  When my old Maytag died, Oct. 2011, I, of course, went to this dealer.  They told me everyone LOVED this machine.  The salesman even told me when he buys another machine, this is the one he will buy.  They actually steered me away from buying a front-load machine.  WELL, if I had the money, I would put this out front with a "Free" sign.  I can't bring myself to sell it, because I would feel too guilty!

I put up with it for 2 months, leaving lint and whatever all over my dark clothes, before I went back to the dealer with my daughter's slacks that were an absolute mess.  They told me they didn't blame me, but I was the first person who had complained and that everyone else just loved their machine.  At that time, I told them I was going to sell it and asked what else could I look at?  They told me they would schedule a service call to see what the problem was and if they couldn't fix it to call them and they would see what they could do.  The service men found that my original hoses (that were newer flexible metal hoses) that connected the machine to the water supply were not letting enough water through.  They said they could hear the water flow and knew something was wrong.  So, at no cost to me, they replaced the hoses with regular rubber hoses.  They also said I should use the extra rinse.  I told them I was on a well and I didn't like having to do that and DIDN'T have to do that with my Maytag.  They said the newer machines did not even come close to using the same amount of water that my Maytag had, so it wouldn't be a problem with my well.  Plus, they said, you really needed to use the extra rinse with these newer machines, because of all the regulations the government had imposed on these appliance companies.

Well, that's been 2 months ago and it is STILL leaving residue on my dark clothes.  I absolutely HATE this machine, but now I'm stuck with it.  I even went to Lowes and was asking them about machines.  I finally told the saleswoman what problems I was having and she did admit that the rep from Whirlpool (who I just missed) was explaining to them how you should place your clothes around the outside, wash like fabrics with like fabrics...blah, blah, blah, so the washer would wash your clothes better.  Geez, I didn't know you needed a college education to wash clothes, PLUS the time it would take to wash twice as many loads!

Bottom line, DON'T BUY THIS WASHER!  Go look at the reviews for the front-load Samsung's -- they are MUCH better reviews.


This is the first time I have ever wanted to give something zero stars.

We moved to a new house about a year ago, and this is the washing machine that came with the house. Let me tell you, this thing is a worthless piece of junk. Maybe you're into saving energy and water. I understand that. But I'm sure you also like having clean clothes to wear. If I'm right, then under no circumstances do you want to own this washing machine.

Most washing machines work like so: You put in your clothes, pour on some detergent, select water level, water temperature, type of wash, etc, press start or something to that effect. The washing machine then FILLS UP WITH WATER, and swishes your clothes around, loosening up dirt, stains, etc. Then there's some combination of draining, rinsing, spinning, etc. When all is said and done, your clothes are completely wet, but not dripping. They smell fresh, and are ready to go in the dryer or air dry.

This piece of junk works nothing like that. You will put your clothes in, put in detergent, and choose the kind of load you're washing (towels, bulky items, whites, colored, etc). You choose water temperature, soil level. You do not have the option of choosing the water level.

Once you press start, the washing machine shoots out about 2 cups of soapy water on the entire load, and then spins around like it's on the spin cycle for about 30 seconds. Then it stops, shoots out another 2 cups of soapy water, then spins around some more. As it's spinning, the water is not accumulating, so that it eventually fills up. No...it just keeps draining as it spins, then repeating the whole thing over again. I've stared at this thing through the glass, and I'm thinking, how is it supposed to wash the clothes this way? Well, when you come back an hour later, you have your answer. IT DOESN'T. When you take your clothes out, they're damp. When you open up shirts, socks, and pants, oh, what's this?, DRY SPOTS. Places that didn't even get touched once by the little spurts of water. So now your clothes are damp, and a little musty smelling, and some look dirtier than they did before they went in. I've tried washing a full load of clothes, and I've tried washing just a few things, thinking maybe it can only handle a small load. No, it doesn't matter.

We haven't experienced the mechanical problems that the other reviewers have mentioned. Just the product design. It's inherently flawed. It makes you wonder, did they test this thing out before they put it on the market? Even the concept of a washing machine that doesn't fill up with water....What the foe!!!..????  Even a child knows that that won't work. Trust me on this. Trust the other negative reviewers on this. We're all trying to spare you the pain in the butt and waste of money, trips to the laundry mat, etc. You are much better off buying yourself a regular washing machine. But who knows. Maybe there's an energy efficient machine out there that actually washes your clothes. But this aint it.