This is the soap dispenser door/lid only, not the spring or white/blue plastic locking cam or any other parts or instructions on installation, FYI, so just be aware. You can 'You Tube' the installation video and it is very quick and easy. You do have to 'slightly' bend the plastic with a common screwdriver. This lid is dark gray and seems like it is built well; time will tell as the original lid had a small plastic projection in each corner to keep it in the track and one broke off about 5 years ago which made the lid come off often. The original soap dispenser has not worked since new so many times we just added soap to the first cycle. This lid seems much sturdier than the original. It is all plastic so may be adversly affected by heat and detergent over time. I will update as needed. Be also aware that there is a minimal 20% restocking fee and postage cost to return it so if you get it you might as well keep it as a spare. It is not uncommon for these things to go bad. I recommend this, would buy again, and I hope this helps someone.

Update 9-27-14: I was not able to use this as my spring latch (white piece, not included) seemed to be damged so I ended up calling for service and replacing the whole dispenser, which has changed in design due to problems with venting, as well as the lower rubber door seal. I DO recommend Bosch Dishwashers and ours has been hastle free for 15+ years, otherwise. The lid is good to have on hand for a Bosch soap dispenser so I still recommend, BUT it does just sit in a drawer and I may not find it if and when I need it, which happens to a lot of things I have saved 'just in case'. You do not need to use the soap/spot remover dispenser, but it needs to stay in place to prevent leaks, place spot-remover gel on the seal to reseat it if you do need to remove the whole dispenser unit.


I searched for a couple of months looking for the right stove for our newly remodeled kitchen and we decided on the GE Cafe gas range.  This stove is the flagship appliance for GE's Cafe line and they did not hold anything back with it.  We have owned the stove for 3 weeks now and have used virtually every feature on it and it has passed with flying colors.

The materials of the stove are top notch.  I have read some reviews about melting and overheated knobs, but the ones that came on my April 2010 stove are metal with no overheating issues.

The griddle that comes with it is very cool, although you would not want to use it to cook anything that can splash like bacon as it is very messy.  Stick with pancakes.

The electronic control panel for the stove is very intuitive and user friendly.  Most people will be able to start using it right away without needing to read the manual as everything works the way you think it would.

A couple of other features that are impressive is the meat probe that allows you to cook to internal temp on meats which works VERY well and the light for the over.  I know this sounds stupid, but you can see inside the stove very well without having to open the door.  This is very different from the GE Profile stove I replace.

My only frustration with the stove is you have to convert it to LP if natural gas is not available in your area and they make it such that you pretty much have to have the gas company do it.  That added another $100 to my costs but it was still worth it.  (It would be nice if appliance manufacturers made this easy enough so Joe Homeowner could do it, but on the other hand they probably don't want Joe Homeowner messing with gas!) The gas company will also adjust the burners to make sure they are properly regulated, which could resolve some issues other users were having.

If you are looking for a very functional stove that is sure to catch people's eye this is the stove for you.


My husband had been wanting his own private beer fridge with a glass front and an internal light for a long time, and after doing a lot of research I decided to go with this particular fridge.  Mine came well packed, and without any dents or cosmetic damage from shipping (I ordered it here from amazon).

It really gets cold, and does a good chilling drinks.  If you set it to continuous, it can start to freeze your drinks.  I didn't realize this at first and I had a bottle of sparkling water explode into a slushy mess inside, but it was easy to clean up.  It has 8 settings, the dial has 1 through 7 and continuous, and I find that setting it to a 5 or 6 is good to keep drinks cold but not too cold.  The only downsides are  that when it rotates on and off, it can make a little bit of noise, but it's not very loud and I don't really notice it anymore, and the shelves are a little bit flimsy.  If you pack it full, the shelves start to bend and sag in the middle.

Other than that though it does a good job storing different sizes.  The bottom can hold full sized champagne bottles, and the middle can store glass beer bottles, while the top can store cans.  It works perfect for us, since we like to stock all three types.

Overall for the price, it does a good job.  We are definitely pleased.  My husband loves it!

[edit] - The fridge died on 12/1/12, just 11 months after purchase.  It was making a loud snapping noise every few minutes but the compressor wouldn't turn on.  Since it was within warranty, the manufacturer sent a technician who replaced the part that starts the compressor.  He said these fridges are equipped with a super cheap part that will almost guaranteed break down, but it's an easy fix if you can get a repairman in the door.  Once he got the part from his car it took him less than 10 minutes to have it working again and out the door.  As of 5/1/13, it's still working fine.


This unit replaces a Samsung microwave that failed because it's circuit board failed after two years; I swore I would go back to a range hood instead of another MW unit. I spent two months researching many models here, rejecting those with halogen lights (I find these too hot in general, let alone over my cooking range), and wanting something that vented out through the attic space as the MW did. I chose Air King because of the reviews here and elsewhere and took the chance. So far, after a week, I'm glad I did so.

The installation was quite straight forward, BUT there was no packet of screws anywhere (we looked in the box, every part of the fan, etc.). The contractor used screws he had and they worked but when we turned it on, the fan hit the side slightly; he needed to bend the fan unit and side a bit. It seems both these issues have been reported by others, so I'm hoping that their good experience with this unit will also be true for me.

I cook a lot of aromatic dishes, and the real test of this unit was a curry. I had to put the fan on mid-high, which meant it was loud, louder than the MW fan on high but also more powerful. I could not smell curry cooking as I had with the MW. The unit sits higher than the MW too, which is probably why I needed to use a higher setting.

We used fluorescent blubs for lighting; bought the wrong kind so it doesn't vary with the two setting switch, but that's Okay as I rarely use a low setting. I really like how the light and fan are switches you turn on and off, and for the fan, rotate to the desired level, as opposed to push button settings to raise the power. With that, you'd have to cycle through if you wanted to change to a lower power or setting; with the switch, you just turn it. Nice and efficient.

The unit seems strong and not flimsy at all. It is a nice fit with the other stainless steel appliances, and I know how to clean SS properly as with the other appliances.

So in short, a good unit so far; it's been only a week, so I'll update this in a month, and if there are any issues.


I have a Maytag MTB2156BE refrigerator which recently stopped working. I decided to see if I could repair it. I plugged it in with the rear cardboard panel removed, and I heard the compressor start and run for a couple of seconds then quit. I could also hear  sizzling noise coming from the relay mounted on the compressor. A little smoke came from the area of the relay.

When I looked online for a replacement relay, I figured I would replace the overload at the same time. However, the overload for my model is no longer available, so I came across a site the indicated this part would work and other sites that said it did not fit. Amazon indicated it would fit, so I gave it a try.

When I received this new start device, I removed the original run capacitor from its mount to the left of the compressor by simply removing the screw holding it in place. I then plugged the run capacitor into the W10189190 start device, and it fit perfectly.

The one issue I encountered was the size of the connectors. The original connectors were .250" (1/4 inch), and the connectors on the new start device were .110"  I didn't want to make any wiring modifications in case I need to revert back to using the original style relay/overload. So, I made up two small wiring adapters. I used two short pieces of appropriate gauge stranded copper wire with a .250 insulated male connector on one end and a .110 female connector on the other end. I did need to use some electrical tape to cover the back side of the .250 male connector that was inserted into the insulated female connector. I also taped over the end of the orange wire connector that originally went to the run capacitor.

The refrigerator is running well now.

As an additional note, I ordered this from Amazon Warehouse deals, so my total cost to fix the refrigerator was around $25 which includes the W10189190, 1 day shipping, and the connectors.


I'm not a HVAC professional, but I am a scientifically-minded home owner. I've been curious as to how different actions affect the humidity in our pool room, among other things. I have no idea if this meter is correctly calibrated or not, and the manual doesn't talk about how to check this or calibrate it. However, I strongly suspect this is more accurate than anything I currently have. I mainly used the meter to check how an action changed the humidity or temperature in a room, which it appeared to do just fine.

"The meter displays three different temperature points of the air surrounding the meter's sensor: ambient, wet bulb, and dew point." The meter has buttons that allow you to hold, save, and/or recall data. It also has a MIN MAX AVG function. The directions are brief but I was able to use all these functions without a problem. The meter is powered by 4 AAA batteries. There is a power on/off button, but the meter will also automatically turn off after 20 minutes. There is a button to turn on and off a display backlight. The meter has a belt clip.

The display was large enough to read easily. It quickly arrived at the reading (about 3-5 seconds to stabilize unless in an area of air movement). The meter is for indoor use only. The manual warns "To extend sensor life, keep the sensor's protective shutter closed whenever the meter is not in use." There are no further directions about this shutter, but I can't find one despite the picture. It's possible I'm overlooking the obvious, but perhaps the obvious is that there isn't one.

I'd recommend reading the reviews by professionals. From the description I read to decide to review this or not, I'd assumed it was around $75 and "of professional quality" rather than an actual professional meter. I'd normally have left this to in-that-profession reviewers as I have no way to compare this to similar meters on the market nor can I comment on if the pricing is reasonable. I apologize for that lack in my review.


The LDG3037ST is an update of the range I bought this Spring so I can't really review it, but the only difference between this range and mine is the buttons are slightly different.  However, I believe enough is similar I can make a qualified review.

My subjective point view says this is one of the best looking ranges out there for under $2,000, by far.  On the objective side I've had my range for about 6 months now and it has worked perfectly.  The burners put out a lot of heat.  In fact, it is so much better than my last range I have to watch my arm when reaching for a pot on the back burner because the super burner will singe you arm hair when on high.

By favorite part of the stove is the fifth burner and the griddle.  I told myself I didn't need a fifth burner and it wouldn't be worth the extra money because I never use more than four.  Then I saw it came with a griddle and thought that is perfect.  I make pancakes on the griddle all the time.  I love it.

The double oven is nice.  I used to use a toaster oven because I didn't want to bother heating a whole oven to cook something like fish sticks.  Now I use the top oven for stuff like that.  The bottom oven is great for baking or roasting.

The only downside about this unit is probably the same for any double oven.  The rack in the top oven is against the bottom of the oven so the bottom of a pan gets a lot of heat.  If you move the rack up one notch nothing really fits.  You also have to bend over more than you are use to to get items out of the bottom oven, but I seen no way around this.

I saw a couple reviews complain about the knobs being plastic.  Well, they are plastic, but they look nice and so far they have been durable.  I really like the shape of them because they look like knobs on a higher end range.

No regrets at this point.


We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.


My $1400 Kitchen Aid range came with plastic knobs wrapped in a foil laminate which lasted about 30 days and then wrinkled and separated from the plastic, just from the heat of the oven. Indicates a fundamental design problems with Kitchen Aid products, I thought.

So, I called Sears warranty and parts department and was promised steel knobs and instead received more plastic knobs which also delaminated in about 30 days. Next, I went to the Sears store and talked with the salesman who gave me a part number and said my problems would be solved if I called Sears parts again. Instead, I was coldly told my warranty was up.  When I explained that my warranty wasn't fulfilled by the shipment of bad replacement knobs I was told: too bad.  I then wound up with only one option, buying a set of five steel knobs for $140. Only problem was the part number was wrong and Sears sold me the wrong parts.  Indicates fundamental fulfillment problems common with Sears these days, don't you think?

The knobs Sears shipped were for another range. You won't believe what happened next. When my wife installed the knobs onto the range as aligned by the parts themselves, they were upside down in position beyond the electric igniter, freely releasing natural gas into the kitchen.  I was home, and watched as it took her an uncomfortable amount of time to determine that she needed to turn the knob upside down to turn it off.  Close call.

I lament the whole experience because we are worse off as consumers if we lose a retailing giant like Sears.  But we are worse off still, if we are subjected to bad business practices while a retail giant slowly slips out of existence.

For Kitchen Aid, obviously, they sacrifice product quality in order to fit with retail price-points at the expense of the consumer. I can only imagine where Kitchen Aid products are made, and why the cheap plastic parts. We are now shopping for a new range, 2 years four months after buying Kitchen Aid's $1400 gas range. Thanks a lot, Sears and Kitchen Aid, and goodbye.


What you may not know is that LG made quite a few clothes dryers for GE.
GE is notorious for 'gouging' for parts.  They change the part number of this wheel and charge from $31 ~ $38 each roller, often without the shaft included.
I did some research and found that these wheels/rollers (whether genuine oem, 'approved oem', or just plain generic (I think all from Korea) will fit the following dryer model #ers:
DPGT650EH0MG,DPGT650EH0WW,DPGT650GH0MG,DPGT650GH0WW,DPGT750EC0PL,DPGT750EC0WW,DPGT750EC1PL,DPGT750EC1WW,DPGT750EC2PL,DPGT750EC2WW,DPGT750GC0PL,DPGT750GC0WW,DPGT750GC1PL,DPGT750GC1WW,DPGT750GC2PL,DPGT750GC2WW,PTDN800EM0WW,PTDN800GM0WW,PTDN805EM0MS,PTDN805GM0MS,PTDN850GM0WW,PTDS850EM0WW,PTDS850GM0WW,PTDS855EM0MS.

They've also been updated by this number that has a decidedly more narrow rubber edge:
LG Dryer Roller Assembly DE2002A  - REPLACES 4581EL2002C 4581EL2002A 4581EL2002B

Four stars for now until some time is put on them.  You don't have to always buy 4 but however many you are replacing you should get a new shaft included (these come with the new shaft - you reuse the old nut and washers).

There seems to be a very, very light oil on the shaft.  People refer to these erroneously as having bearings (lol) it's just a shaft and a 'bushing' spins on it.  I don't believe you should add lubricant to them, just install as they are. (unsticking an old frozen shaft & bushing with some spray teflon dry film is a different story though)


We don't have a water line installed to hook up to our refrigerator so if we wanted ice we either filled ice trays or we bought bagged ice at the store. During the hot summer months the ice would already be melting by the time you got the bag out to the car, then after you got the bag of ice home and put it into the freezer it would refreeze into one big block of ice.

Having a portable ice maker is great! No more buying bagged ice or filling trays. This machine is small enough to set on the counter or even go with you in the RV.  In about 6 minutes you'll have a scoop of ice to drop into your glass. All you do is pour water to the fill line and press the button on the front to choose the cube size and you're good to go.

I dump the filled ice bin into containers in our freezer until they are filled then just let the machine stay on so I can grab ice during the day as needed. If you want a harder ice for the blender make sure you store it in your freezer. The ice I store in the freezer gets used for smoothies, adding to our ice shaver,  and  for margaritas while the ice straight from the machine is great for ice water, soda, tea, and chomping!.

We have hard water so I use bottled water to keep the machine from gunking up, and for a better tasting ice without those icky ice cube floating things. There are 3 cube sizes you can choose, medium is the default size. If you leave the ice in the machine it will slowly melt back into the bin,  the water will constantly recycle itself and continue to make ice until either the bin is full or you turn off the power.

  The front control panel looks nice and is very easy to navigate. There is a small plug  for draining the water out for easy rinsing and cleaning.  This is a really nice ice machine, with ice tea season right around the corner a portable ice maker will come in handy.

Free product sample received for review purposes.


***Update July 12, 2017 (see BELOW original review***
I let this sit in the upright position for a couple days before cleaning it and turning it on. Bingo! Just like clockwork, I filled the tank with water and whamo, it started dropping ice cubes into the tub on top of the reservoir - wooohooooo! I don't have to walk this body clear across the house to the kitchen freezer which barely makes any ice cubes or they jam up on the way out then spill all over the floor. This one is in our bedroom on a counter and color me happy! As you can see, the cubes are not clear but I don't care. I have a PUR filter water pitcher next to it, so after this water runs down I'll try to fill it with the filtered water and see if they come out clear. I was just too excited to think of doing that lol. I have severe chronic fatigue, like severe, so walking across the house just wears me plum out as well as out of breath. Plus I have agonizing pain from a bad back. Living in Hawai'i is hot year round and now, ooo la la! I have ice. Now let's hope this baby doesn't break down so I don't have to add an update to this review  Did you color me happy? Make it pink with glitter cause that's what having ice close by makes me feel like.
***Update July 12, 2017*** It's broken. .Sigh. I wish this had not been too good to be true, but I think it is. I ALMOST got NINE months of ice cubes from this unit. Now I will begin the process of contacting the company to see what is covered, what isn't and how much this is going to cost me. I am no longer happy and covered in pink glitter. ***Update July 20, 2017 Company's customer service is fabulous. Easy to work with and made everything all better. If you have any problems, be sure to ask for help directly from the company***


We bought this dishwasher to replace an aging Kitchenaid (that one lasted over 20 years).  Our old dishwasher quit suddenly just before Thanksgiving and I scrambled to find a dishwasher I could pick up and install that day.  I soon discovered that stores don't stock many dishwashers.  This model was in stock at our local Bestbuy store for right at $300, we like our other Whirlpool products, so I went with it.

  Likes:  the tall tub, energy star rating, it is very quiet, and it has done an excellent job of cleaning the dishes.  We use the "normal" cycle, not the quick wash.  I am ashamed to say that our dishes were noticeably cleaner and the glassware clearer after being run in this washer, apparently our old one wasn't doing a good job anymore.  I like the controls and the options, it is easy to use.

Dislikes: predominately the silverware basket hanging on the door.  I haven't read the instructions yet, so I'm glad another reviewer remarked that there are other options mentioned, I'll check that out.  The tub is plastic, but I'm not sure that is a big disadvantage, and I wouldn't expect stainless at this price point.  Non adjustable racks- we don't miss the height adjustment of our old upper rack, but we have had trouble loading the dishes as efficiently as before.  That may be a matter of time to discover the best way to use it.

Basically I am very happy with the way it looks and the way it works, and for this price I think we did very well.  Over $500 like some reviewers mentioned?  That seems a bit much for this dishwasher.  We had a Bosch in another house that we paid around $550 for and the build quality and features were much better than this.  Even now I see this model on sale for about $360 at Bestbuys.  If you can find it under $400 okay, not a bad dishwasher- get one, if you can't- keep looking.


Given that buying the official Kenmore replacement wick in a store can cost $25 and the Kenmore branded wicks can cost $17 on the net, I just had to give these a try.  Comparing to the Kenmore branded wick, this one produces the same water use rate for the humidifier given the same conditions and you can get four of them for the price of buying one Kenmore branded wick in a store.  I can't see any significant quality difference, comparing a new Kenmore branded wick to this one.  Humidifier wicks calcify more quickly than you might want, this is due to the hardness of the water that you fill the humidifier with.  The harder your water the shorter the life of the wick.  If you want the wick to last longer, you can install a reverse osmosis unit to get softer water to fill your humidifier with.  It is a tradeoff between the cost of the wicks and the cost of the reverse osmosis unit.  If you are paying for the Kenmore branded filters a reverse osmosis unit could make good sense.  The filter fits nicely in the humidifier and I am happy with it.  The humidifier has no way of knowing the condition of the filter, it uses a timer that is supposed to reset if you unplug the humidifier.  The best way to judge when to replace the filter is to just look at it with a flashlight through the plastic grill.  The calcification has a color that is easily seen and works its way down the wick from the top.  The calcification hampers the wicking of water, so once it works its way down the wick the performance of the humidifier tapers off and you need to replace the wick.  I bought four of these to spread the shipping cost over more than one filter.  The filters are individually wrapped in plastic and four fit in the shipping box nicely without being crushed.  Using a bacteriostatic treatment that is designed for wick type humidifiers will keep undesired biology from growing in your humidifier and it is a good idea to put some in once in a while.  I will certainly be buying more wicks from this source when the time comes.


Purchased in February and it was great. However, in July something broke and it will no longer switch between crushed and cubed ice. Since this was not a big deal I procrastinated and didn't contact Samsung support. That has now become a three week nightmare. Still have not had a service person scheduled to even come out and determine what is wrong. Samsung customer support is probably the worst support I have ever dealt with. They originally assigned the ticket to one local company that I was never able to get in contact with. Then a week ago Samsung called me, I explained the situation and was told they would assign to another company. Called Samsung yesterday as I still have not heard from anyone and the ticket was never transferred. The person with "Executive Customer Relations" told me she transferred the ticket, called the Authorized Service Center herself, and that I would be contacted within 24 hours to schedule the service call. Plus she would call me back to follow-up. Well, here it is over 72 hours later and zero calls.

I just want people to be aware of what they may be getting into.

Follow-up: Well, after all the issues getting someone to look at the refrigerator, I finally had a service technician out to look at it on Nov 26th.  Turns out that the "ice box" which houses the motor for the auger and the mechanism that opens the door for cubed ice had ice built up inside of it.  No indication of this on the outside of the assembly.  The ice build up was preventing the solenoid from being able to work correctly to open the door, and caused the solenoid to burn out.  The technician at first thought that the heater inside the assembly that is to prevent the ice build up was not working. After testing he determined that the electrical connection was probably not properly connected at the factory which prevented the heater from working.  He ordered a new assembly unit and on Dec 4th it was installed.  Ice maker has been working properly since.  Of course I have no way of verifying if the heater is working or not, just hoping that it is.

And, although Samsung told me they would follow-up, I have heard nothing from them since the repair.  Just another example of poor customer service from them and the lack of quality control at their factories.


I have a vintage double General Electric oven that is original to my 1966 home. The oven still had an original element made in the USA by G.E. that finally melted/broke in one corner and needed replacement. Years ago I had borrowed it from the lower oven as a replacement for the top oven and haven't had a lower operating oven in years. So, I took the model number off the worn-out original heating element and found the correct replacement on-line. I had ordered a replacement from another Amazon seller (different brand) but after 5 days of waiting it still had not shipped. So I cancelled that order and chose 2 replacement elements from THINK FAST to put both upper/lower ovens back into like-new service. THINK FAST shipped the order quickly (I chose free shipping for my order over $35).

While the oven was out-of-commission, I took the time to give the ovens a thorough cleaning from top to bottom with EASY OFF oven cleaner and rinsed off the chemical several times and waited delivery of the replacements.

The elements arrived quickly (5 days) and in great shape. Each was heavily wrapped several times in small bubble wrap. Installation was a breeze with 4 screws (2 to connect the wire leads to the oven's flexible wire leads, and 2 to attach the rectangular mounting bracket to the oven's interior wall). I used the old screws since they were hex head and are easier to put in with the appropriate hex screw driver. (BTW, the element came with 2 Phillips head screws which I did not use.)

After installation the ovens fired up perfectly. I am very happy with the product. The Exact Replacements heated efficiently like the original element. These old G.E. ovens are built like a tank. Rather than spend $2,000-3,000 for a top-of-the-line new fancy-state-of-the-art double oven, I spent less than $40 for TWO elements to keep my vintage oven working perfectly for many more years. I'm smiling today!


FIRST REVISION

I have had the unit for a few weeks and went through our first power outage which revealed an major flaw: POWER OUTAGES REQUIRE MANUAL INTERVENTION.

I have now had the device for a few weeks and went through our first power outage. When the power came back on the unit came up with the right hand blue light flashing. The only cure is to power the unit off, press the reset button on the bottom (I held it for a few seconds seconds), and then re-apply the power. We want the unit to monitor our home while we travel over the winter. I am going to put it on a UPS system and hope that the unit will stay powered up.

a) SETUP:
  1: you have to enable at least one sensor to get the hub recognized by the web application. Literally spent hours waiting for the lights to stop blinking. After searching on the web a user stated that the you had to install batteries in a sensor before the web site application will recognize your hub. The installation sheet does not tell you that. It said that the lights would stop blinking and then you could complete the setup. After six hours of a blinking light, I installed batteries in one sensor and seconds later the lights on the hub went solid and the web application allowed me to setup the system and add the other two sensors.
  2: sensors have to be upright or range is significantly reduced. When I was trouble shooting a bad sensor (see below) I set the second sensor horizontal and got no connectivity.
b) SENSORS:
  1: as other users have stated, the sensors are not very well calibrated. This is not a fifty cent sensor, they should read +/- 1 degree IMO.
  2: one sensor that read 70 degrees inside went to -40 degrees when I put it outside when it was appox 50 degrees. brought sensor back inside and  it returned to 70 degrees. I will test it again tonight. If it is bad I will have to find out if the vendor will want to send a replacement sensor or if I have to return the whole unit.

Assuming that I get a good sensor I would recommend this unit since it seems to work, I can add sensors and can even buy a range extender so I can monitor my barn.


We had this refrigerator delivered on 6/9/15.  Within the first 10 days, the freezer got so warm it defrosted the ice and food. We called Whirlpool customer service and they sent out a technician a week later. The technician said he couldn't find anything wrong and we should make sure the door was shut and the freezer kept full.  He also advised to get a surge protector made for appliances.  Everything done as recommended.  A couple of days later freezer temperature soared, we purchased a temperature probe and temperature in freezer would go above freezing and remain there long enough to melt ice and food.  We called Whirlpool customer service. The Technician came out. He called Whirlpool and on Technical Support's recommendation, he ordered a thermister, main controller board and wiring harness.  He replaced the items replaced 2 weeks later when the parts came in.  A couple of days later, freezer temperature rose long enough to defrost ice and food. Called Whirlpool again, they said they would need to send a technician out again. They said they had no record of the technician calling customer service, when in fact he called from our home in front of my husband.  A week later, the same technician came out.  He said he did everything he could.  He called Whirlpool Technical Support and this time was told to order a customer interface board.  A week later the part came in and the technician came out to install it.  He said if this didn't work, there was nothing more he could do.  A day later, temperature rose again, defrosted the ice and food.  We called Whirlpool customer service again and demanded a replacement.  We were told yet again, that they needed to send a technician out.  We will be waiting another week just for the technician to say nothing else can be done.  Do not buy this refrigerator or a Whirlpool appliance.  Their customer service is the worst!  We have had this appliance for almost 3 months and cannot rely on the freezer.  Cash outlay $1598.00


We had a load of desperately-needed socks half washed when the tub stopped spinning in our 20-year old Kenmore Series 90 washing machine.  It's never given a bit of trouble or even been moved in the past 20 years, as the clutter of lint, boxes and debris around its base would attest to.  Grinding sounds would emanate from below whenever the cycle was recommenced.  We discussed immediate plans to use the laundromat, take our dirty linens to a relative/neighbors house or the dreaded purchase of a new machine!  Fortunately, being an avid tinkerer, I did a little research on-line and thought this repair was a fair bet, would be easily accomplished albeit messy.

In a few days the $6 part arrived and I found the repair was actually easier than described on numerous Youtube videos.  I didn't even have to remove the water or load of old socks that had been soaking for a few days.  All I did was tip the machine to the left (as looking from the front) enough to gain access underneath.  And messy?  Not at all.  The underside is pretty sparse of components: only a hose, the pump/motor combination and the transmission...that's it!  I could see easily that the connector was obviously broken by trying to shift it with a screwdriver.  All I removed were two screws and the retaining straps they held in place.  This allows the motor/pump to be pulled away and dropped to remove the offending pieces and install the new ones.  Put the motor back in place while aligning the coupler pieces, re-secure the straps and you're done.  It would have taken only 20 minutes if I hadn't babied everything out of concern.  I set the washer down, restarted the cycle and my socks were done as if uninterrupted by a week's wait.  The washer even seemed quieter than before, leading me to believe it had slowly been dying for some time.

If your washing machine is broken, don't even inspect it!  Just order this part and try it.  If it fixes it, great! if not, the cost in time and money is minimal.


For seltzer lovers, the added feature on this fridge is awesome. I love not having cans of seltzer around the house and having to bring them back. We just received the fridge so I'm not sure how well the SodaSteam will hold up but hopefully if we take care of it, there shouldn't be any problems. The fridge has plenty of storage space. The snack drawer is great for things like deli meats or snacks for my toddler. The freezer space is a bit small but should serve its purpose for a family of three.

I highly recommend purchasing this through a local retailer. My sister warned against purchasing something like this online, but I love Amazon and rarely have any problems. The seller that we purchased this through was HcCost. We ordered this in early Feb, with a delivery date of Feb 18 - 21st. After many attempts to coordinate delivery, with my husband taking time off from work to wait for delivery, it never happened. While customer service at HcCost was quick to get back to us, they did not know themselves where the fridge was once it was on route. The typical response was, "give it another 24 hours." It was a very frustrating process as we were charged full price, paid off the credit card only to not have the final product. That being said, I still love Amazon. They worked fast at getting us a refund but I definitely won't be buying large applicances online. We went to Best Buy--the price was only $50 more and we got the fridge right away with free delivery and set up. They even helped us move our old fridge into the garage.

Update 2/6: We have this fridge for almost a yr and it still works great! The SodaStream suddenly stopped working but after contacting SamSung, we found out SodaStream started making their cartridge different so they sent us a valve (?) to fix the problem. It works great now. My only complaint is that the fridge only makes 2 liters of seltzer at a time then it needs to refill which takes about 10 mins. If you have a party, fill up first and refrigerate.


Works perfect as a replacement to a similar looking stove switch on my smooth top stove. I didn't need one of the connections. Basically if your current switch has H1, H2, L1, L2, P, connections and the wattage reads 2100-2600w or 8.9-11.0A (amps) then this is the one for you. I had the large burner and there was a LOW connection (L1 I think) that I did not need to hook to. I suspect you may be able to use the same switch for a small burner and would likely not use one the of the HIGH connections. BUT if you have the large burner DON'T buy one that says 1250-1560W (watts) or 4.4-7.4A (amps). That is lower power than you will need. When hooking up the new one don't worry about the wire color, order or location since they vary in front vs. rear burner and brand to brand. Just copy the wire locations of your old switch to the new one: H1 to H1, L1 to L1, P to P, etc.. the spade locations and look of the switch were a bit different from stock but it works perfect and temperature is the same as the other large burner I measured with my digital thermometer. It is also possible the screw threads that hold it to the metal panel could also vary from what you have and it does not come with screws, I don't think any others do either. I lost my original switch screws anyway and I have a large screw jar so this was no biggie for me. If you need to replace the screws just use ones barely long enough to grab the front of the switch and not go deep in or you may ruin the switch or touch a contact. I hope this helps someone. I was overly worried about wire colors and switch shape, etc. It's ALL about wattage, connections (H1, L1) and the shaft that your knob slides onto. Match those and your good. FORGET brand loyalty. Frigidaire, Kenmore, Hotpoint, GE, Whirlpool, Amana, Electrolux, etc are all in bed together. Chances are your $2,000 GE 6 burner Profile stove has the same switch as the $449 Whirlpool apartment grade one.


We made the mistake of purchasing matching Samsung appliances after obtaining a great Samsung refrigerator. We have a few minor issues with some of their other appliances, however this dishwasher was by far the most disappointing appliance purchase of any kind that we have ever made. We purchased this dishwasher from Lowe's and did a self-install in June of 2013. Everything worked perfectly. The only qualms we had with the design was the buttons were hard to access under our countertop (we chocked it up to the self install) and the fact that we couldn't tell if a button had registered as being pressed or not. There is a very low volumed beep that sounds when pressed, which isn't very helpful in a noisy kitchen/house.
The real trouble started this past May 2014, when the dishwasher started but no water sprayed in the machine through the cycle. We called customer service since it was still under warranty and they came out to fix it. When the technician finally got here and I told him it was a self-install he smirked and started looking at our plumbing under the sink. After a quick review, he decided we didn't screw it up. He ended up replacing the circuit board on the system, and voila! We have a working dishwasher again. As a family of two, we put very little pressure on this machine and even followed "extra" directions the service tech gave us like wiping the grime under a poorly designed seal on the bottom of the door and avoiding the acidic "lemon" detergents. Well, this past weekend (September 2014) our dishwasher broke down again with the same problem. We called tech support who informed us that our drain was probably clogged. (Seriously???) After several attempts to explain that the appliance was not spraying any water, she finally got the point and informed us our warranty ran out and there was nothing she could do. This is a clear design/quality flaw with the circuit board in the appliance or some other electrical issue that causes the circuit board to short. Based on this product alone and the poor customer service, I will not be buying another kitchen Samsung appliance again.

The sad thing is, this is the 3rd online review I have written on this product since being placed on hold with the service center.


First, DON'T BUY SAMSUNG PRODUCTS, PERIOD!! We upgraded our Kitchen in 2011 and decided to buy all new kitchen appliances, Electric stove, Dishwasher, and Refrigerator. We shopped around and every salesman we spoke to kept telling us that Samsung was the Best. So, we finally bought from Sears and got them to through in an extended 3 year protection plan in the deal. Little did we know how much we would need it. All were top of the line Stainless Steel and Black appliances. The stove was retured and replaced with a new stove in the first two weeks because the ceramic top scratched when we tried to clean it per the owners manual. We had a Whirlpool ceramic top stove before and never had this issue after 15 years of use. The new stove still scratch a little but not as bad as the first. The refrigerator had the dooor gasket fail and the ice maker door control fail. The dishwasher never worked well. Didn't clean well, the cycle was too long, and food would get stuck between the door and the lower basket. We were told that the racks wouldn't rust but they did. We had them replaced under the protection paln. Then the protection plan ended in April of 2014. the Dishwasher started leaking. It was clear tha the spot welds had broken on the gasket holding frame.  I called Samsung and tried to tell them it couldn't be fixed, but they insisted I call a service Tech and they recommended one. Long story short, it couldn't be fixed I had to pay $95 for the service call, Samsung would not reimburse me, they did agree to buy back the dishwasher for a depreciated value of ~ $256. the dishwasher cost me $509 and that was a sale price. They also paid me for the damage to my hardwood floor that was caused by the leaking dishwasher. Samsung was dificult to deal with through the entir process. I would never buy another Samsung product, NONE, not Ever!!!!!!!!!


Washer is great!

We got ours in April 2009, so we have had it over six months now.
- Water bill has been cut by approximately 1/3 ($720 down to $480 per year).
- Water savings alone mean it will pay for itself in less than four years.
- Machine uses about half the amount of laundry detergent per load than our old machine.
- Capacity is enormous.  We do about half the loads we used to.  You will be surprised how much you can fit in one load.
- I'm sure the hot water bill is less also, but I can't quantify those savings since we got a new furnace around the same time.
- Clothes take much less time to dry because they are so much drier when they come out of the washer.
- Quiet.  Quality machine, no problems.

The new high-efficiency washers are very different from your old top loader.  Most of the complaints that you will read about are caused by improper installation or use.
- The washer *must* be adjusted to be level in order to work properly. The clothes will not be spun properly if it's not level.
- Don't use too much soap - if you do, you will have electrical and other problems
- You *must* use high efficiency laundry detergent
- If you leave the door closed all the time, you will get mold.  You have to leave the door ajar when not in use.
- The wash cycle does take longer than a traditional top loader, but you make up for it in the dry cycle.
- It will look like there is almost no water in the machine when it is running.  It is designed to work this way.  The clothes do get clean!

It's true that the clothes are often twisted when you pull them out.  I give each item a quick shake to straighten them out, then toss them in the dryer.

Unless your dryer is broken, don't bother getting a new one.  You won't need it.

The only negative: you can't do small, heavy loads very well.  When I need to wash the bath rug, I have to wash it with other items (like old towels) or the washer won't run properly (because of how it needs to spin).


I've only had this unit for a day, and I like it so far, but I have one issue with it (which I was wondering if anyone else who purchased this has this issue).  When first powered on (and every time the unit stops and restarts), there is a loud noise coming from the back of the unit, like possibly the sound of water boiling, but much louder, and then it stops after a minute and doesn't happen again unless the unit quits making ice and then restarts.  Has anyone else had this issue? I wasn't sure if a replacement unit was going to be any different.

To answer questions from other users...

The water is filled from the front of the unit.  You must open the lid and remove the ice tray to fill the unit with water.  The ice tray rests above the water.  As the ice on the bottom of the tray slowly melts, there are openings in the ice tray to allow it to be reused to make more ice.

I wasn't sure how the ice maker was going to work after the unit makes a full container of ice (in my case, it takes about 3 hours to make a full tray of ice before it gives me the 'full' light).  When the light is illuminated, the ice machine shuts completely off, with nothing to keep the ice cool.  It's my guess that it acts somewhat like a thermos to keep the ice from melting very fast, because the unit is shut off at this point.  However, if it's full and you leave it on all night without it making ice, the ice will melt enough for the unit to start again to make more.  If you take the ice tray out, it's going to drip water from the ice on the bottom of the bin, so be careful if you don't want it to drip on anything.

I have not had this ice maker long enough to tell you how long it would last, but so far, I am happy with the purchase.  I did dock it one star though due to the loud noise that happens when the unit first turns on (the box DID say the unit was quiet, right?)  It is quiet, but only after the first minute.


Our Amana AGS760WW range (from the early 80s) starting becoming slow to light and eventually just reeked of unlit gas.  Some online research revealed that the igniter heats up by was of resistance and the flow of current then triggers the gas valve to open.  A complete, but poorly performing ingniter would display my symptoms, so I sought out the right part.

When shopping on some appliance part website, my handy Amazon Google Chrome plug in displayed a message saying that Amazon had it, and sure enough they did (and at 40% of the price) and it was available with Prime shipping!  I never knew to look at Amazon.  The first igniter arrived on a sub zero day, well packed but was broke.  Having read other reviews I understood these to be highly brittle, and sure enough it was.  As noted it was very well packed, but the conditions were less than ideal.  A prompt replacement was dispatched, and it arrived intact.

I skooted the oven out, unplugged the power (left the gas line connected), and removed the door and racks.  The metal guard that shrouds the ignited was held in place by three easy to remove sheet metal screws, and the I pulled the old igniter out.  At first glance, it seems much bigger than what's in my oven, but much get's hidden behind the back wall.  It's an identical part.  I fished the wire nuts out via the smallish hole to unscrew the old unit.  I replaced the plastic ones with new ceramic wire nuts (rate for high temps, but the old ones should work).  Note these were not included with the replacement part, but likely weren't needed. Then I put everything back into place.  The hardest part was removing the metal guard from the old igniter and installing on the new one, especially while being fearful of it's brittle nature.  All in all, it took 20 minutes, including putting the door back on (which can be tricky).

Everything worked great, and the oven heats much faster than I've ever seen.  It must have been going bad these last few years.  I'm so glad I fixed this myself.


Years ago, we bought a home that came with a 30-year-old Kitchenaid dishwasher. The rest of the kitchen had been remodeled but the old Kitchenaid remained. We used that thing for another 5 years before we did a complete remodel of the kitchen, and purchased a new Kitchenaid dishwasher, thinking these machines were the best of the best and would last another 30 years. Boy, were we wrong! Despite purchasing the best Kitchenaid option at the home store, the new Kitchenaid machines are simply not built to last. In the 7 years we have owned this machine, we've had to have it serviced at least twice, and have had to replace different parts on the upper rack and the silverware basket. Each time, the replacement products have been more plastic and more headache.

This metal replacement part set really is much better quality than the parts that came with my Kitchenaid as well as the parts I've purchased to replace the same issue. I am now much more optimistic that this dishwasher will not need any replacement parts for years to come.

A perk, too, is that you get parts to replace both sides of the upper rack hardware, and the cost is the same as the old plastic parts which only replaced one side.

This was very easy to install. There's a great video on YouTube (in your search engine, type the product number with the word 'installation' and the video pops right up) and this makes installation a breeze. The only complaint I have is in regards to the odd screw system included in the set. I don't know the name of the part, but it's like a screw that fits into the top of another screw (think piggyback style), and then you use a screwdriver on that in order to tighten the part. I don't know why it is done this way-- it really isn't user-friendly and it would seem that a simpler option would be available-- but it works and the product is still simple to install.


This small coupling made the absolute easiest fix of an appliance ( or anything else) I have ever attempted. My refrigerator stopped dispensing ice more than a year ago, and when I researched the problem online, I was overwhelmed by all the things that can go wrong with an ice dispenser--and I just let it go and satisfied myself with opening the freezer door and shoveling the ice out manually. Then I began to get curious and test out things and decided that I either needed an auger motor or this coupling--or both. The motor actually was working but it was making an odd noise, so I ordered both ( I found the auger motor for my refrigerator model much cheaper online somewhere else). As it turns out, all that was wrong with my ice dispenser assembly was the coupler which was stripped out and simply slipped around on the threaded shaft that the motor uses to turn the auger in the ice bucket which moves the ice to the dispenser. Most of the help videos showed that I would have to remove the auger motor and perform some kind of mcgyver to get the darn coupler off since it was stripped out. But lo and behold I learned on one of the forums discussing ice dispenser problems and fixes that if your coupler was not jammed on, if it was stripped out like mine and would not move backward or forward in order to be removed from the shaft--all you have to do is install a new one right in front of it (unplug fridge, remove ice container and by hand screw this left-handed coupler on, replace ice container, plug in refrigerator and you are good to go, if the coupler is the problem. It has been two weeks since I did this "fix", and my dispenser is working just fine with both cubed or crushed ice. My refrigerator has the old style plastic auger instead of the metal one, and so I probably will have to be careful from now on and make sure nothing gets jammed or the same problem will occur. I didn't need the motor but I have it if I need it, and I know how to change it out if I have to. It is not often I get an easy fix, and I certainly appreciated this one!


Unless you love the taste of burnt food, and want to spend a good portion of your evening scraping burnt, boiled over food off the burners, avoid KitchenAid Electric cooktops like the plague.  I call ours the 'electronic abortion'.  As the previous reviewer said, bump the control knobs and the burner lights up, and burns you!  These stoves are pure evil, not meant for any sane person to use.  The burners have some kind of thermostat that turns them hot sporadically, then shuts off just when you think your food might start to cook.  So you turn up the heat; big mistake.  Of a sudden the heat comes on and instantly boils over whatever's in the pot cooking.  It's simply impossible to cook a decent meal on these things.

The oven seems to work ok, but we've already burned out the oven lights once, and a pair of new ones costs like $50.00.  Holy Moly!  For oven lights?

We were lucky, we had a repairmen tell us not to use the self-cleaning function, which will burn out the electronics (most of his repair work was to replace these).
However, we've had to dismantle the entire oven door to clean the glass.  Apparently, the boiled over food from the top somehow leaked down the edge of the cooktop into the door vents right on to the glass, and is then baked on solidly when the oven is used.  Great design Whirlpool (they own Kitchen-Aids)(yes, Kitchen-Aids, that's the only good name for these bogus appliance manufacturers).  May you go bankrupt, and soon.

P.S. I thought the idea of cooktops was to make it easy to clean the burners.  Wrong, wrong, wrong.  Apparently the idea is to make you buy special cooktop cleaner, which doesn't clean the burned on food off worth a damn, so you end up buying razor blades to scrape the crap off.  Never had to to that with the old stove.  And, as an engineer who has worked with computers for many years, I simply cannot believe sensitive electronics would purposely be mounted directly above a 500F heat source.  That's really insane.


I have had this dishwasher for about a month. My old one was soooo bad...left food and debris all over the dishwasher. I decided to go with a Bosch because all 3 of the service men we had out for our old one, told us Bosch are the best. After reading various reviews on various Bosch models, I decided that a simple model would be best. One thing mentioned is the smaller interior compared to what Americans are used to. I decided a smaller interior would be a small sacrifice for CLEAN DISHES!!! What a concept, right?

So here are my objective opinions...and for what it is worth, we are a family of 6, we home school and my hubby works from home. Which translates into 6 people home all the time...which means this dishwasher runs at least once per day...sometimes twice...

It is only a tiny bit smaller inside.
It uses less soap.
It has a longer run time.
You have to turn the unit 'off' after it runs its cycle. It doesn't turn off automatically...kind of like your dvr staying on unless you turn it off. Different, but not a problem.
You can also turn off the sound that will beep to let you know when the cycle is over. Some have complained about that, but I guess they did not read the users manual that clearly tells you how to turn it down, or off completely.

All minor adjustments to 'normal' American engineering.

Other reviews state that plastics don't dry. I have not had a problem with plastics drying...and really what is the big wooo? Open the door and let them air dry...not rocket science, right?

This review is really rooted in whether or not the appliance will CLEAN the dishes! And so far it does that magnificently! Love this machine so far. It is super quiet and everything comes out so clean and bright. I could not be happier.

I installed it myself, with a bit of help from friend on the electrical part. It was pretty straight forward.

If I have left out anything you want to know, leave a comment and I will get back to you.


I purchased this appliance about a year ago and have regretted it every day. It looks great but the 2 freezer drawers are so poorly designed it completely overrides any good qualities with the refrigerator. The top freezer drawer is so small you can fit a pound of bacon or possibly 2 but not much else. The bottom drawer is where the real frustration is. It has an ice maker with a slide out compartment which holds the cubes. Every single time you pull the tray forward to get to the ice the ice hangs up on the upper tray and several pieces fall out onto the floor or worse underneath the bottom drawer where you can't get to it. The bottom drawer is deceiving in its looks. It has the slide out upper tray which is where the ice is leaving a very small bottom portion which is not very deep. If you put an ice cream container (less than half gallon size)in there it snags the top and bunches it up and the drawer won't close. The freezer is almost half of the volume of the appliance and yet it holds such a ridiculously small amount.
The refrigerator door hinges had to be replaced because one of the doors didn't close correctly and of course that happened as we left for the weekend. Unlike any other fridge I have ever owed, you really have to make an effort to close the doors. They do not seal if you just swing them shut. You have to push the door all the way until it comes in contact with the body of the fridge. It usually beeps when the doors aren't closed correctly which happens often, but not that time. When we came back on Sunday the inerior temperature was 64 degrees. Yep, everything in the fridge had to be thrown out. The hinges were covered under warranty but not the food or the 10 bottles of insulin which were in there.  In fairness I think that the refrigerator has really good lighting but that just isn't enough when it comes to spending this type of money. This headache of a refrigerator will probably last me 30 long years.


Update: The company has just emailed me and advise me that I would have to ship the unit back to them to receive the warranty service, which is easily the cost of the unit. Essentially, there is no real warranty with this item. A terrible investment.

I bought this freezer last December.  I had no complaints with it until it stopped working, defrosting all of the food inside.  After rescuing as much as I could I set out trying to get someone to repair the unit, as it comes with a one year warranty.  The first thing I discovered was the warranty information here on Amazon is not correct.  This item is not warrantied by GE, but rather by a third party corporation known as Curtis International which warranties all of Igloo's products.

Curtis International's website:[...] States that they have 24/7 product support.  This isn't true because the first six times I called the phone tree dumped me into a queue and then I was disconnected with a message to call later at a time convenient to me. Um, I'm calling now because THIS is a time convenient to me. When I finally got through the person on the other end was difficult to understand, and after much repeating he asked me questions like "Is the lid closed securely" and then told me to reset the system "By turning it to lo and then high 6-7 seven times" I followed all of his supposed reset instructions (which, by the way, aren't in my user manual and felt like a delaying tactic) and surprise! I still have a puddle of water in the bottom of my freezer that doesn't work.

So now I have to try to figure out the sweet spot in Curtis' supposed 24/7 support time when they really do answer the phone to see if they'll actually fix my freezer. All in all, I've spent nearly a week trying to even get a response and my frustration level is pretty high.  $260 for a freezer that only works for nine months is a terrible investment, if you ask me.  Save your money and buy a different model.


This is the worst consumer product I have ever bought. Worse than any bad dell laptop or any other appliance. The sad thing is, that it does a great job washing dishes and is pretty quiet while doing it. Frigidaire seems to think that their solution to a ventless design is to let steam escape during drying from out the sides and top of the door. Within 6 months, my cabinets and doors were ruined by the constant steam. The finish peeled and cracked. was covered under warranty by maker of cabinets but clearly wasn't their fault. Then a few months later, the thing started blinking and would only sporadically respond to button presses and would only do random things not necessarily what I pressed. Service came out and replaced buttons and circuit board (under warranty). That circuit board started to cause my dishwasher to randomly make crazy noises at random times of day regardless of whether or not the dishwasher was actually run that day. Came out again and said they could not duplicate the problem, I asked them to stay until it did it again, and of course it started doing it again at 2am so they had left. Well, now I can get a new circuit board because it died again. lights blinking, then nothing. oh wait, nothing but then 5 minutes later burning smell and smoke. unplugged unit, thankfully I was home and prevented a bigger fire or explosion. Now it is past warranty and repair is $200 for the same crappy circuit board. if you ever get a chance to look at the circuit board, it resembles the technology of your old atari 2600 but actually costs more, does less and is extremely prone to failure. Over the years, frigidaire has made small changes to the design from an aesthetic point, but not from a functional point, the newer 2010 model still has the same lousy design. do a search on frigidaire circuit board failiure or frigidaire fire or frigidaire cabinet steam and see the many complaints. some have even gone so far as to make their own site dedicated to the problems with dishwasher. i am hoping to get a few more months out of this piece of garbage and find something else on sale. a complete waste of hundreds of dollars. so 1 year, 2 replaced circuit boards, should have been 3, replaced cabinet doors and have had a total of 3 weeks of no dishwasher.


My 5-year old GE PSC25NSWA fridge would periodically have water leak and/or icicles trailing from the ice cube compartment in the freezer section.  I suspected a hole in the ice tray, but further inspection and online research led me to this main control board as the culprit.  Supposedly, the older versions of this control board had issues properly regulating the freezer temperature, periodically causing the freezer contents--including the ice cubes--to melt.  No wonder some food in the freezer ended up bad!

Since the fridge is out of warranty, a service call for parts & labor would be ~$700.  $85 for the part on Amazon (free s/h & cheaper than GE.com)?  No brainer, especially if you have experience installing PC add-on boards.

Steps:

1. Consult the online fridge manual diagram for the physical location of the control board (for mine, looking at the back, it's at the bottom right) and confirm it's easily accessible (~4 screws, but may have been hex; be sure to check yourself first).

2.  Since you'll need to pull out the fridge to access the back, Remove any fragile or open containers from the fridge.

3.  Unplug the fridge or turn off the power to the fridge at the circuit breaker.

4.  After removing the control board cover, you may want to label the cables and take some pictures.  However, the Molex connectors are uniquely shaped to prevent you from replugging in wrong direction or socket.  Gently tug them from the board sockets at the plastic connectors and keep count of the plugs.

5.  Unscrew the control board, remove, then screw in the new board.  Replug the cables (do not force anything, they should fit smoothly; obviously the count should be the same as from unplugging!).  Be careful not to drop the screw inside the fridge back when putting in the upper cover screws (hassle to dig out).

6.  Plug the fridge back in or flip the circuit breaker back on to confirm fridge is operational (fridge light and temperature sensor should be on).

It's been 2 months, and 0 freezer issues since for me.  Good luck!

* Update Jan 2016:
It's been over 2 years, and no problems with the fridge since.


I rarely give five star reviews but this right here hands down is the best thing I have bought here in Amazon. I'll give you guys that short version, I left on a trip and came home and my fianc told me that the dryer was acting weird it'll take 4-5 times just to dry clothes and she advised that it was ice cold when she took it out. Me thinking maybe the vent for the lint was full and so I crawled under neath my dryer and undid the vent tube and checked it but it was clear. After several YouTube videos and reading a lot of people said the dryer element might've been broken. I quickly undid the cover and tried to look in but I can only see the top of the element and not the bottom the top was fine. So I called around and to see how much it would cost to replace since you know I'm not s dryer technician. I was quoted from 250 all the way to 400 this included parts plus labor. Me being the super cheap person I was said acres that I found the part number on samsungs website and went to find it, thank god Amazon carried the item I rushed deliveried it to the casa.

Now while I was waiting for the part to come via snail mail, I YouTube all the videos on how to take apart this thing called a dryer. The day came and it finally the part came, I drank a beer for courage of course because I was home by myself and knew that I had to drag this dryer out myself. I took it part per the you tube video and replaced the element and put everything back together. I fired it up while the cover was not on and that element lit up bright red and I was like heck yes! Mission accomplished I drank another celebratory beer and put it all back together.

Pros: great price and is the exact part
Don't pay 300+ to get it repaired
If you can use a screw driver you can do this

Cons:
It didn't get to me fast enough
I ran out of beer installing it


I am so glad I bought this device.  After about 20 minutes of use, which included assembly and experimentation, I had succeeded in pulling out an ugly glob of wet, compacted lint from my dryer vent pipe.  That huge pile of yuck on the ground represented about 13 years of accumulation.  It also represented a fire hazard and drain on my electrical bill.  So, I'm glad I bought this device.  My vent pipe was about 20 feet or so long so I had to get some additional rods to make up the difference.  It is easy to assemble, the process being screwing fiber glass rods together.  [Think they're fiber glass].  Then attach a brush to one end and a drill to the other.  It's normal to be concerned about the rods disconnecting so I covered each joint with  electrical tape.  Actually, no realistic chance of a joint unscrewing unless you reverse your drill.  And I judge the rods to be unbreakable.  Then insert the brush and joints into the vent pipe until you encounter resistence.  Then activate your drill in a clockwise fashion and exert gentle pressure forward.  Periodically, pull the glob out until you're all the way through.  My vent was previously blowing an almost indiscernible wisp of air through the vent when the dryer was on.  Now it's a nice, solid, warm breeze as nothing stands in the way.  Clothes dry in FAR less time.  Even though the device is intuitive and easy to assemble and use, there are clearly written instructions that also give some advice on dryer connections.  And if you were to disconnect or break a rod inside the vent, the company has a toll-free number for a device to fix that.  [I suspect it is a magnetized rod].  Anyway, now that I'm unclogged, I plan to use the device periodically for PM to prevent this problem in the future.


Like flooding your home? This appliance is for you! You have to drain the tube at the bottom of the machine after pretty much every use or it's motor dies and you have to replace it yourself. If you forget to screw the stopper back in place or it's not put in perfectly, the next load of washing machine water ends up on your floor. I've had to deal with 5 floods this year all because of this horrible feature. This machine is described as being smart and technological, however it has ZERO ability to tell you that the stopper is not in place or that it's flooding your house. A SMART machine should not flood your house. I can't believe I paid this much for the worst machine I've ever dealt with. And since you need to use this ridiculous feature every time you wash, you pretty much have to keep that ugly flap open on the bottom left of the machine, and have an ugly tube sticking out permanently...or risk having someone forget to drain and clear the thing, and then deal with another motor breaking. Each time someone does the laundry you're risking a flood or burnt out engine. This is not attractive, not smart, and a horrible design. Major fail, LG. And what genius thought up the lint trap feature?? It literally cakes lint onto the rim of the washing machine, so you have to drag your freshly cleaned items across all of the pet hair and lint it has collected. There are no devices or anything provided to remove the hair, you're expected to scratch at it like a wild animal to remove whatever hair you can. Huge, huge, HUGE oversights made when designing this machine. LG, TEST YOUR PRODUCTS before selling them on the market. A washing machine should NOT destroy your home, it should make life easier. LG makes life impossibly hard. I would have been better off with a used $200 machine. I'm never buying LG anything again. I've included a photo of after I've squeegee'd half an inch of soapy laundry water off my floor, and the worthless ugly tube that makes all of that 5am misery possible.


Dishes were not getting cleaned and coming out with food baked to the porcelain.  I thought it was caused by the kids not pre-washing the dishes clean before going into the dishwasher.  After some investigation, running the dishwasher and opening the door minutes into the cycle, I realized that the water pressure was low (or non-existent).

I figured since there are so few moving parts in the dishwasher, the pump was the problem.  I ordered this pump from Amazon and it came quickly.  Actually, they sent an icemaker by accident but the retailer worked quickly to get me the right item so I won't ding them on that mistake.

I spent a few minutes watching a video on YouTube on how to replace the unit then tackled it on Saturday.  I didn't have to remove the dishwasher from the wall which was nice.  I just removed the kick plate to get access to the underside of the unit then the white clips (these weren't explained in the video but easily figured out) and finally the electric harness... viola!  Out comes the old pump.

Installing the pump was easy, required a bit of contortion to replace the clips but easy enough.  Make sure to watch the videos online because they help you get a sense of where things are while you're using your fingers without visually seeing some places you're working.

I did this by myself and it took maybe 60 minutes from start to finish (first thing I did was cut power to the dishwasher at the electric panel).  Yes, I put some vege oil on the seal based on the advice of others.  No problem getting it clipped into place.

Another tip, be careful removing and replacing the washing arm (the 4 armed unit that spins under the dish tray).  It is made of plastic and the threads will damage if you apply too much pressure.  I had to perfectly align the threads then use a needle nose plier to pull up the mail threaded screw piece while pressing firmly on the washing arm unit.  It was a bit of a task.


I had to give this 4 out of 5 because although this was listed as the correct part for my washer, perhaps because my washer is a Kenmore 110.9227411 or because it's so old, the wire harness connector on this part was all wrong.  It was bigger, too big for the cut-out on my washer and the internal contacts were sort of a blade versus the round pin-and-socket variety on mine.  But the mechanical end mated to my lid mount point just fine.  So it was a quick job to cut and splice my connector onto the new part.  Incidentally, the part number printed onto the part I removed part is 3352630.

And this Youtube video was essential:  Search on "Lid Switch Replacement (part #3949238) - Whirlpool/Kenmore Washer Repair"

Update 1/18/2016
The washer stopped draining this week.  The two possibilities were the drain pump or the lid switch.  I was figuring it was the pump since I had already replaced the switch.  I didn't initially believe the continuity test showing the switch had failed.  But jumpering the switch at the connector verified this diagnosis.  The original switch lasted 10+ years.  This one failed in 1 year 3 months.  Evidently, they don't make these things like they used to ... but it looks like I'll have to buy another one.

Update: 1/23/2016
Since my part failed, I purchased the GARP compatible version of this switch http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MGMWOW2?redirect=true&ref_=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0  The GARP part could have been manufactured/assembled in the same place.  Side by side it was identical except for the font for the switch voltage specifications molded into the plastic switch body.  Hopefully it will last longer.


After much researching I decided to buy the Nina Dyer and the Extreme Power  portable washing machine at the same time.  They both work great.  The Nina spins spo much water out of the clothes that I am able to hang my clothes in my closet to dry and never have to worry about dripping on the floor.  There is NO dripping ---just fast drying .  It is bigger than I thought but sits in the corner of my bathroom just fine while not in use.  When empty is not too heavy to move in and out of place.  I have a pink plastic Easter bucket  that collects all the water while spinning and then sits on top of the Nina when not is use.

Suggestions for use:

1. After washing item squeeze out extra water (so it isn't too drippy)  before loading item into dryer.  This means less weight for the dryer to spin around and less water in your bucket.

2.  Load one item at a time in the dryer in a circular shape trying hug the inner wall of the dryer and keeping the center as open as possible. Don't have the ends of each garment meet all in the same place but rotate those meeting places all around the inside of the dryer.

 3.. Load your heavy items first then your lighter ones last.  Use the empty center part of the dryer for your underwear, socks etc.

4..When starting the dryer hold on to the unit until it gets up to speed just to make sure that things are in balance.

5.  When stopping the unit instead of lifting the lid which will throw it into a extreme braking/stopping movement  I choose to unplug the unit itself.  This will allow the unit to slow down naturally and save wear and tear on the braking mechanisim..

Using the above suggestions have resulted in excellent results for our family with this unit.  I would highly recommend this dryer to others.

P.S.---This is NOT a traditional dryer as it has no heater or blower.  It merely removes so much water from the clothes by centrifigual force that the clothes are left DAMP dry.  These DAMP clothes then need to be hung up to AIR dry quickly the rest of the way.  Using this unit will result in less fading and wear and tear on your clothes--meaning your clothes will look nicer , last longer and thus will save you money.


If you are an ice snob like me - you learn how to make this machine work.......

That being said, apparently I am not using it correctly but it's the only way I can get it to make ice.  The manual says "Do not fill front reservoir with water" but if I don't, my machine acts like there's no water in it!!!!!  My ice maker will not pull water from the back tank.  If the front tank empties, my machine gets super loud and makes white ice that has to be thrown out.

Oh... and cleaning.... hahahahaha!!!!  I have a water softener installed in my home and I use filtered water from my refrigerator but the gunk this thing gets built up is pretty bad!!!!  Today I finally took the back off, the top off and removed all the water lines to really clean it.  The amount of gunk removed and to see the mold spots on areas where water flows was really pretty scary when thinking I drink this stuff every day!!!

I've purchased a different, less expensive counter top ice maker because when I get ice from my Luma, I LOVE it!!!!  Best ice ever (even though I know what's in those pipes).  This makes far superior ice and actually has less problems than the igloo ice maker I purchased.  If you are looking for a counter top ice maker that makes clean ice - this is it.  Otherwise the next option is an installed under counter ice maker.  I haven't found another product that makes ice this good..... you just have to learn the trickery of making it work.

Oh.... and the auto shut off valve.... man come on, there's not enough ice in that bin yet.... it barely fills my 30oz Rambler with that little basket!!!!  I'm tempted to take that lever off!!!

Yes it makes great ice, but it's not going to be a fill it and forget it deal.  You are going to have to work for your ice with this machine!


Well, I just bought a new model, the 00611A3-ex and am very disappointed.

I asked the co. if the unit would read from my old sensor, as I didn't want two different sensors on the table on the porch.

Took them two weeks to answer, yes it would.

So I bought it (not from Amazon) and found out, no it won't.

Not only that, although this unit cost more than my old units, it's functions have been downgraded.  The old units included on the display the high and low temps for the day.  The new one doesn't, you have to push tiny little buttons on the back to temporarily display each separately.

Further, the new one is, indeed inaccurate compared to the older ones, and to a pretty good thermometer I used to check all of them.

Lastly, the outside relative humidity reading is stuck on 99%.  It won't move.

I'm returning it.

Initially:  I have had two of these for several years, and previous models also, and have always found they work well, subject to two caveats:

Keep the sensor out of the sun.  It will definitely read inaccurately if the sun is heating it up directly, it's to measure air temp. and humidity, not heat from the sun.

Micro-climates - the climate at your house is virtually never going to be what they report from the airport, even if you live by the airport, or from other weather bureau stations or even satellite measurements unless they are measuring from where you have the sensor.  With these you can discover what your micro-climate is.  For instance, my shaded screened porch is usually about 2 degrees more in the winter, and 2 degrees less in the summer than what the weather service is reporting for our area.

Why?  We are completely surrounded, 360 degrees, by trees.  We're in the middle of a 200 ft diameter circle.  Not only do the trees (and the meadow inside the circle, we don't have a lawn) greatly affect the temperature, they also break the wind.

Our humidity in the summer is a few points higher than the weather service reports, about the same in the winter.


I bought this range around 10/14 and have been using it a couple months. I planned on going induction for a long time and have been collecting a set of All-Clad cookware for years. I can't say how cheap cookware works but induction is amazing with the all-Clad.

I picked this particular range for 2 reasons. Induction requires a lot of power tech and I thought who better than GE. Second, this range's control panel is touch sensitive glass. The others I saw had wavy soft plastic touch panels, unattractive and more prone to damage. This panel works flawlessly and the controls are fairly simple.

I haven't noticed any noises while cooking. The burner settings start with L then go up 1 to 9 with half stops and H for a total of 19 heat settings which switch in under a second. You get an almost instant change in temp which is obvious in the pot or pan. Since there's no heat element to retain heat or to heat up, the change in temp in what you are cooking is almost instant.  The small burner has a warm setting, the two medium burners have a simmer setting and the large burner has a power boil setting. There is a small warmer burner that is not induction but it doesn't get very hot. The largest burner with a very large pot of water will boil it very fast, faster even than the medium burner with a much smaller pot.

The oven is convection which is nice. Much nicer is that the bottom heat element is hidden, nothing but a flat metal bottom with a recess for water for the steam clean feature. It also has a regular self-clean cycle.

All I can say is induction is everything I expected and I love this range. I've had gas and electric and this technology beats them both. Cooking is a pleasure, the digital heat settings make it easy to do whatever you want, from warm to simmer to boil.

I didn't even find this range here when I was buying. I would expect this model to disappear soon but if a replacement has similar features as I've described it will probably be as good or better. I will update this review in the future.


My dryer was pumping out freezing cold air all the time due to the cheap plastic flapper always getting stuck.  This thing has made a huge difference!  I can't believe people are paying 2x as much for the Heartland version.  I'm sure the plastic is better, but at twice the price it can't be worth it.

Install was simple except for using spray foam.  I was concerned about it not having the pipe, but it's actually better that way.  Most people are ordering this to replace their failing one which already has the pipe.  My cover just crumbled apart leaving the perfectly flush pipe.  Perhaps just as important is that I found there was a large square hole in my wall which wasn't insulated at all, so it was like having a 4" square hole piping cold air into my building.  A can of great stuff (which is horribly messy and won't spray upright, but "horrible stuff" probably wouldn't sell as well) sealed that up tight as a drum.  I waited an hour for the foam to expand then installed this temporarily.  I came back another hour later and it had gushed into the pipe area, so if you use foam plan on coming back the next day to trim and do the final install.  It is a pain that it needs to be painted, but I can understand that would raise the price a lot.  The four holes almost lined up exactly so no carpentry required.

I'm mildly concerned that the plastic floating cap that blocks the vent may get some lint trapped and not seal completely.  I don't see a better way of doing it since there's always a chance lint will attach itself.  I only just installed it so I'll have to update it after a few months to see if it gets lint caught there.  I would plan to check it each winter.  The good news is the top is separate from the 90 pipe so you can easily access & clean everything.


Use Case:  I recently redesigned / cleaned out my basement to turn it into a "man cave" for my young boys.  The setup is now less toys and more around football decor and TV/XBox for more older kids enjoyment.  We quickly realized now that friends  come over and hang in our basement that it's annoying to have them keep coming upstairs for drinks so a fridge was the obvious choice.  I wanted one that had a glass front to make it more modern and nice to go with the decor and something small profile because I wouldn't need one for lots of things.

Shipping:  Item came very fast and very well packaged.  No issues at all.

Setup:  All I had to do it take out of packaging materials, remove a few pieces of tape securing the door and shelves and then just plug it in.

Usage:  The fridge is set to 3 which is medium level cooling - just enough to keep the drinks cool but not as cold as fridge, slightly less cold.  There are 2 stronger (colder) settings that I have not used but I'm sure work fine.  The operation of the fridge is very quiet- we really don't hear it at all and the couch is very near the fridge.  Granted, it's not super quiet most times down there but overall it's quiet.  It's so quiet I even wondered if it was working so I took to the manual to double check I didn't miss something in setup.  The manual did say that this isn't like a typical fridge because it's a beverage cooler so the sounds may differ than what we are used to hearing or come to expect.

The inside shelves are as you would expect and hold Gatorade bottles, soda cans, water bottles no problem.  However, unless you remove the one shelf you really can't get in like a liter of a drink.  The other thing to point out is the bottom shelf back doesn't go all the way to the back it only goes back half the distance of the top.

Cons:  None really that I can think of!

Overall, I'd certainly recommend if you are in the market for a small / dorm size fridge.  The glass front adds a very nice touch for decor (only if you plan to have it nice inside).  the price was good and hope it lasts for years to come!


I was hesitant about purchasing this kegerator because of some of the reviews but decided to buy it anyway.  The unit came in scratch and dent free which I was very pleased about.  I spent the extra bucks and got the stainless model which looks nice in the man cave.  I was a little surprised how small the unit was when I was unpacking it.  In the pictures they all look the same but this is not a full size kegerator it is basically a mini-fridge with an over sized door to accomodate a full size keg.  This was not an issue for me because I am limited on space and the overall cosmetic appearance of the unit is very nice.  I installed the casters to give it more height.  The kegerator assembled easily and came with alot of spare gaskets, parts and wrenches which I thought was cool.  Do pay attention to the gasket that belongs beneath the tower like the other reviews say because it is not mentioned in the instructions.  It comes with a 2.5 pound Co2 tank which is adequate but I will probaly upgrade to a 5 pound.  It also came with a nice dual gauge Co2 regulator unlike some reviews said.  Some of the reviews said the unit would not get cold enough.  Mine seems to stay around 34-36 degrees on the max setting. That seems perfect to me!  Some of the reviews talk about the noise.  I can say it is a little noisy but just a little more than a regular refrigerator. You get what you pay for in life and this unit has some cheaply made parts here and there but at the end of the day what do you expect from a kegerator?  Cold draft beer when you want it and this unit will deliver!  Why pay hundreds more?  I am very pleased so far.  I've only had it for three days and am half way through my first keg of blue moon but no issues so far.  I will update if any issues arrive!


I am a big fan of Broan products. We even call ourselves Broanies, we've purchased so many fans from them.  I've purchased four bathroom fans and two range hoods so far. That said, this range hood has some things that are great and some things that are not great. I purchased it because I love the big, easy-to-clean, zero-button outer surface. That was always the ONE thing I didn't like about my older range hood was getting the dirt and grease out of the button areas and around their logos. Plus, with a duel blower this thing REALLY draws air very well, has a built-in damper so if you are using one on the outside vent exit, the combination assures better prevention of outside air infiltration through the system.  (Note: I always put window screen over the exits to keep any bugs out as well.)

The smaller problems are:

1. The size is a bit off. This is about a quarter of an inch smaller than 30 inches. Doesn't seem like a big deal until you start installing it and find that the width will need some filler because it isn't the same size as a 30 inch cabinet. They need to fix this because cabinets don't flex and bend and it's a pain to try and make filler match cabinets perfectly.

2. The steel is not that thick. It's OK, but I've noticed that more and more manufacturers are skimping on the thickness of steel these days. Easy to ding, easy to bend.

3. The paint coating is a little rough in places. I'm going to have to sand this one and re-paint it with a good gloss enamel to match the kitchen anyway, but this would bother me if I was going to stick with this color.

All in all, a great range hood, but some drawbacks.  Lots of air movement (seriously, 7 cubic feet of air per second???) and a nice clean look.  Four stars!


Ok,  shipping was fast enough, quality of product good, and new wire/spring fasteners are included.  The remaining review is a 'how I spent my afternoon' story.

Don't try this if you get frustrated easily.  I have a BOSCH NEXXT 500 Series Washer, circa about 2009.

1) Take top off - 4 screws torx style, smaller size
2) Take hinge cover off,  4 screws torx style, smaller size
3) holding door at 90 degrees from washer pull off hinges
4) take off hinge mount, 2 screws torx style, larger size
5) take out latch screws, 2 screws torx style, smaller size
6) remove door opening surround
7) Pull off outside gasket, pulling up at wire spring
8) Pull off inside gasket, pulling up at wire spring on top where tab shows in picture
9) Fasten inner gasket.  Pull tab as shown in picture,  three holes at bottom.  Be sure to push edge in tight - as shown in picture - seem has to be tight.  This is a pain,  I worked top to bottom, both sides at a time.  I used the covered wrench handle to press on seam.  Once on it stays nice.
10) Replace new wire w/spring -- it's the larger circumference one.
11)  Cuss some, take some rest, and eat lunch.
12) Reinstall door opening surround,  attach hinge mount, latch mount, door, hinge cover
13)  Fasten outer gasket,  this is much easier than the inner one,  but wait....
14) The outer wire w/spring is very hard to fit.  Every time it pops off it pulls the gasket off
15)  I positioned the spring at the bottom.  From the top I hand fed the wire down both sides,  but stopped the right side at 3 oclock.  Once the spring was in position I held it tight with massive screw driver tip.  I held the wire with the funky pliers shown so that I could stretch the string and pull the wire about.  My third hand followed behind to keep the right side wire from pulling back out.
16) Insert miracle.  While waiting for miracle get third hand to open a beer.
17)  Test washer, get repair shop number ready.


This is the standard replacement for several major brands of refrigerators.  Don't let the picture fool or worry you.  The picture is reversed/upsided down mirror image of how the unit goes in your freezer.  To take your old unit out, there are two sbrews on the top above the ice cube tray & optional on most one screw below with a small plastic wedge. Take them out, unplug the power cord and it comes right out.

The new ice maker comes with a short (about 5 inch) wiring harness which you can see one end of it in the picture.  My Maytag did NOT need this part becasue my wires come right out of the freezer wall and are long enough to strech to the front on the unit where they plug in.  On some brands the wires do not come out of the wall but have a plug in the wall.  For these they are suppling a new cord.

You will need two things from your old ice maker.  There is a platic cover that pops on/off the front of the ice maker that covers the moter/grears.  The other is the thin metal rod that goes from the front to the back of the ice cube tray.  It it the one you push all the way up to stop the maker from making ice.  To remove, the back just pops out, the front has to be twisted out.  Just go slow and don't force it, one way will give the other way won't.  Repeat to install the metal rod on the new ice maker.

Just plug it and screw it in & your good to go.  It make take some time for the first batch of ice to fall.  I suggest letting several batches fall and pitching them in case of any residual stuff left on the maker from production.

Sears and other appliance stores and sites charge upward of $100 for this.  At less than $50 this is a great deal.  I scrolled down and used the "Buy Used and Save" and got a returned unit for $31!


We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.


I received a free item to review.

Three of them, actually (they make great gifts for people without refrigerator built-ins, or who entertain a lot).

The difference between the three models of Ivation portable mini-icemaker comes down to the number of ice cube sizes each can produce (1, 2, or 3), the relative size of the compartment lid, the control panel and its orientation (top or front-facing), and the overall size/style of the unit.
The compressor, capacity, and operation of the three models are essentially the same.

 I went into more detail in my review of the 3-sizes-of-cubes model so Im just going to recap here:

This particular model produces only one size of ice cube. My fridge built-in only makes one-size and I've never thought it a problem. The size corresponds to the 'large' size of the two-size model and the 'medium' size of the three-size model.

The ice cubes are shaped like hollowed-out rounded cones, not the semi-circular solids many refrigerator built-ins produce nor the classic cube shape you get with freezer trays.

It takes just over a 6-cup Brita pitcher-full of water to fill the icemaker to the max indicator. The compartment lid stays open by itself so pouring is comfortable.

It takes about two hours to make cubes using just about all of the water. All three units will simply detect and go into standby when the basket is full so theres no worry about overflow. I emptied the basket twice, the first time at about the one hour mark.

All three icemaker models are very easy to operate and don't produce excessive noise. The three-cube model has a somewhat more complex control panel with a standby/pause function and auto on/off timer. It also provides a bit more feedback in the form of troubleshooting icons.

This one-sized cube models is probably the simplest to operate and I think the appearance of the control panels is more attractive than the one on the three size model.

All three models use the same drain plug mechanism and are easy to position over a sink.

Bottom Line: All three icemaker models are well-made and attractive  although all are too large to keep permanently on our countertop. The hollow cone-shaped cubes are an acquired taste but if you entertain a lot and need to crank out more ice than the fridge can handle (or you don't have a built-in), its a handy and easy-to-use addition.