My guess is the new metal reinforced arms is potentially a double edge sword.  They fit very snugly and you need to tap them on with a hammer. I found that a 3/8 inch ratchet extension turned backwards fits the diameter of the metal collar just fine. I was pretty cautious so it took me about a minute or so to slowly mount each of the arms separately to both the motor arm and the transmission drive arm under the clothes basket until they were flush with the drive arms .  I placed the rubber grommet/coupler on the drive arm under the clothes basket and then lined up the holes with the male pins of the coupler on the motor arm.  This is where it gets a little tricky/ frustrating because you have to keep the two sides of the coupler aligned as you try to push the motor/coupler half onto the other half of the coupler that is mounted on the transmission arm so that the pins from one half of the coupler (mounted on motor arm) align and slide into the holes of the other half of the coupler (mounted on the transmission arm).  It takes several attempts and some swearing and the motor is quite heavy to have to hold steady and keep aligned. Okay so finally all assembled and everything works great. Now my concern is any future replacement that is necessary.  The rubber grommet that comes with these couplers is not the reinforced kind which I prefer and had on previously. The rubber ones are pretty much worthless and will breakdown in  1 to 3 years. The reinforced one I had on has been on for years. And since the holes were a bit worn and I misplaced it I used the cheaper unreinforced rubber one that came with the kit. If the new metal reinforced arms last a long time, not so bad because then you only need to replace the rubber grommet,  But if the plastic coupler arms break its going to be a be-actch to get them off the drives arms cuz they are pretty snug and can't get a lot of leverage especially with the side mounted under the clothes basket.  At least the motor/side  can be removed for easier access. You might almost need like a gear puller.  I lubricated the drive arms with grease to avoid the complication of rust seizure later on. I guess my last, all-plastic coupler with the reinforced rubber grommet lasted a long time.  Therefore I think the ideal coupler would be the all plastic arms with the reinforced grommet. It will last a long time and be easy to replace compared to the metal reinforced coupler. I would say I got 10 or 15 years out of the reinforced grommetkit, maybe more.  Other wise this kit worked fine and you get 2 for the price of one.  Just good luck removing the first one that breaks.


Our 10-year-old GE Nautilus dishwasher recently got sluggish in starting -- no water coming in, motor not moving. An experienced maintenance guy suggested that we turn off the power, remove the kickplate, and manually spin the motor to get it
started, and if that action no longer worked it was time to replace the dishwasher.

It worked for a few tries, then no more. I searched online, and read that these GE dishwashers are generally long-lasting, except for the pump-and-motor-assemblies, and our dishwasher's symptoms matched the descriptions for pump/motor assembly failure. We found this new replacement kit on Amazon for just under $90 (compared to $350+ for a new similar dishwasher), and decided to give it a try.

Installing the assembly was actually easy: two screws, four clamps, two electrical harness plugs -- just remove the old and insert the new. The instruction sheet is a diagram of the different configurations one might encounter in older dishwashers. Ours visually matched the "A" diagram on the sheet. Tools needed were a Phillips screwdriver and a regular flat screwdriver, a socket wrench for one small screw that did not have a screwdriver slot, and a pair of pliers for the two smaller hose clamps in the assembly. I also used an adjustable wrench to disconnect the water supply below the sink -- necessary in our installation in order to pull out the machine -- and to raise the front feet on the dishwasher before pulling it out from under the counter. (Some installations may not require either of those actions.)

Getting the dishwasher in and out of its slot under the counter was far more difficult than the pump / motor assembly replacement. But even that was easier than installing a new dishwasher. Once the dishwasher was out in the floor, I turned it upside down for ease of access to the pump / motor assembly. I highly recommend doing that.

When I removed the old pump/motor assembly, I discovered that the discharge end of its shaft was completely bound up in fine blonde hair and solidified detergent. Since none of our family have had blonde hair in the seven years we've owned this house and its dishwasher, we speculate that maybe the previous blonde owner washed her hairbrush in the dishwasher. I pulled all the gunk out of the assembly, and figure that it may actually be OK now. At least I won't throw it away immediately. But the new assembly is running just fine in the machine.

I highly recommend this repair, since it costs so much less than a new machine, and can be accomplished by any person with basic skills using typical screwdrivers, pliers, and wrenches -- no specialist knowledge or tools needed.


Ok everyone, let me first tell you that I'm not one who normally writes reviews, good or bad, but this is important and needs to be told. If you read the customer review from June 2018 on this very page, I have the SAME EXACT PROBLEM. I purchased this fridge in July of 2016 and this unit worked fine for the first 13 months of ownership. Now, after twelve months- yes, 1 year-of attempts to fix this unit with main PCB boards. sensors etc., it still will not go 1 week without the temperature in fridge compartment residing in the low to mid 40's for a day or two. Not good for your food storage needs. Do you want to be giving your kids spoiled milk, totally unaware you are doing so?
The fact that I read a review of this product with the same exact problem coupled with the fact that LG has been throwing money in parts and labor for so long without being able to correct the problem leads me to believe that it is a design flaw with the air circulation in this particular model and quite possibly other models of theirs.
This unit gets very good reviews from most places- especially Consumer Reports- which I am a long long time reader of and completely trust them. But, I'm sure that they don't test refrigerators for a year, and their initial findings were probably very good just like mine were. So, all you young families out there and those considering LG refrigerators for their kitchen remodel, unless you want to monitor temps constantly(or manually defrost it by shutting it down for a couple days which will yield good results for a few months, another "tell" of a design flaw since there has never been any ice build-up behind freezer back panel-this is something you should not have to do with a new fridge), I would STRONGLY advise looking at different brands.
Face it, you read these reviews for a reason. Because of this ongoing problem, I periodically check posts and reviews. After reading the June 2018 persons review, I felt I had to share my experiences and insight. I have nothing against LG products, and this is not a knee-jerk reaction about this fridge. Its been ongoing since August 2017, and to LG's credit they have covered the cost of all labor and parts to this point( it was one month after their standard 1 year warranty expired). Plus, they are probably going to replace this unit with a new one. Unfortunately, after all this, I'm not all that excited about getting the same one. I wonder how many more are out there with this same problem.
Thanks for reading.
To be continued.....


Have a vacation place where the fridge doesn't have an ice maker.  For years we lived with the pain of ice trays.  So figured we'd give this unit a try.  It is really simple to use - you lift out the basket which catches the ice, and fill the reservoir with water - up to the point where the plastic level changes.  Put the basket back it, and turn it on.

You have two choices of ice size - I chose large, which is about the size of a large finger tip.  It would take about 12 minutes to make a batch of ice, and will continue until the ice basket is full or it runs out of water.  If either of these occurs, it will light an indicator.

The ice is hollow in the center and damp when made.  This is because it works by creating a dam which it fills with water and then lowers the refrigerated "fingers" into the water which the ice forms on.  When the time is up, the remaining water goes back into the reservoir, and the cubes drop into the basket.

The unit itself is not refrigerated.  It is insulated and stays cool while making ice because of the refrigerated fingers.  But the ice will melt with the water going back into the reservoir if you don't take it out.

Because the cubes are damp, if you move them to your freezer, they will freeze to each other.  We would fill 1 gallon freezer ziplock bags with the ice.  When we wanted ice we would bang the bag onto the counter top to separate the cubes.

How well did this work?  We never ran out of ice while our place had 12 people with the outside temperatures in the 90s with 90% humidity.  It can make over 20lbs a day.  We would run as needed to keep about 4 of the gallon bags full (probably 10lbs)

You can hear the fan if you are near it.  You can hear the water pump and the dumping of the ice too.  So it is not silent.  We did not mind.  It became a running joke for someone to say - "ice is ready" when we would hear it dump another load.

It does come with a little plastic ice scoop which you can use to scoop the ice out the basket if you want to fill a glass directly.  Also, if you like to chew ice (sorry ADA) by being hollow in the middle they crunch pretty easily.

Next to a new king size mattress, this was the best purchase for the vacation house.


I live in a very small studio apartment in the downtown area of a great historic town here in the US. I moved there from a typical apartment in a suburban setting and the one thing I really missed was being able to wash my clothes in my apartment (going to the laundromat once every week or two got a bit tiring after a while). A friend recommended getting a portable washer, so I chose this. Love it! Though I do agree with what everyone else seems to be saying. You WILL have to micromanage a few things, and though it cleans quickly, you still have to be patient with it.

Pros:
1) Small, fits easily in a small apartment
2) Quiet (I personally don't worry at all about neighbors below hearing it).
3) Powerful, cleans clothes very quickly. Can come home, do a small load (generally every two days for a single guy, though you can re-use water for multiple loads if you want to be sustainable)
4) Spin dryer takes soaking clothes and makes them dry enough to hang and be fully dry in a few hours (3-4, though I go ahead and just leave them up overnight if on a weekday).

One Thing to Note (not really a con for me):
The drain is a little finicky for me. It's actually the part of the process that takes the most time, I think. At first I thought it wasn't draining, because no water was coming consistently out of the pipe. What really seems to be happening is it'll appear to stop for a short while (a minute or so) to work the air out of the tank (you can see the bubbles in the tube). Once the air has been removed from the tank, the water shoots out at a fairly steady stream, until it has to stop again to remove air. Be patient and it should remove all water from the tank, just make sure the hose extends up (at least up to sink height in the bathroom or kitchen). Any lower (like below a foot) and you may have issues, because water won't back up to the tank, which I think you want in order to get it to force all the water out. Could be wrong though, this is just my experience. I'll continue monitoring it and report any further issues.

I'll update this review as I gain more experience using it. I totally would recommend it, but only if you don't mind doing a little extra work. It still beats doing it by hand or driving to laundromat.


I purchased this product feeling I was taking a bit of a gamble since comparable performance in better known brands is about twice the price.

When the unit arrived I quickly unpacked it and plugged it in to see how it worked since I didn't have a good idea of what Sones and CFM actually sounded and felt like.  I can tell you that 1200CFM is a lot of air movement, it cooled my whole house down after running for a couple of minutes.  The sound you hear is air too and not motor sound so the way I see that it is as quiet as can be.  The only thing that could make it quieter might be engineering the airflow differently.

Unfortunately on the lowest speed settings I could here the fan rubbing against something internally.  I called the company and they noted the condition but asked me to poke around and see if there was something that was dented or came loose during shipping.  I said that there were some dents and a loose screw rattling around in the enclosure.  Most of the construction is riveted so not a lot can be taken apart and put back together.  I think each fan comes out as a unit but cannot be disassembled itself most likely (I didn't want to try and end up damaging anything myself).  They sent a fedex pickup to get the defective unit and shipped out a new one.  The new one has no rattle and works fine after a quick test.  the outside of the housing is still dented a bit in the same location but it is in an area that will be enclosed and not seen.  I think this is a design/tolerance issue with the manufacturer.  I was a little perturbed that I was asked to actually see if I could "fix" a defective product and wasn't offered a discount or anything, but it wasn't that big of a deal.

The unit seems like it is built cheap, but also strong.  The lady on the phone said that in all her years at the company they had only had one warrantied motor replacement and that it was probably the owners fault due to inadequate lightning protection or something.  The part of the unit that will be seen is very nice.  The lights are very bright as well.  I'm not sure how easy they will be to replace though.  I kinda wish there were different light settings since they are so bright.  I am slightly concerned with the amount of electronics inside the unit.  It's just more stuff that can potentially break, but only time will tell.  The time delay feature seems like it could be nice since we often like to leave the range on immediately after cooking, but don't need it on during the entire meal.

Hope my review was helpful.  I thought I would be as thorough as possible since there are no reviews on this product.  All in all, buy it!


Excellent for my small apartment. I just set it up in the bathroom where I can hook the hose up to my sink. However, I used a bucket to draw water from the tube because it would take over an hour to fill just using the plastic hose.

The lint trap needs major improvement; it hardly catches any lint.

To keep the lint from adhering to my clothes and to keep it from catching in the machinery of the draining apparatus of the machine, I use an aquarium fish net to catch free floating lint.
  At first, I purchased a small aquarium fish net. It wasn't big enough, so I bought the largest size.

As the load agitates, I hold the aquarium fish net against the side of the tub in the water and catch an amazingly large quantity of lint--cat hair, fabric pile, and fiber--for a 10 lb. load, sometimes up to a cup--I use the "white water" for cleaning the toilet and other household uses. I like conserving resources.

I use a minuscule amount of detergent and ammonia to clean protein, blood, chocolate, coffee stains. If the suds get out of hand even with a small quantity of laundry soap, baking soda helps to 'tame the suds, acts as a softener and freshens the clean clothes.

The I rinse with a cup or two of cleaning vinegar, depending on the size of the load. Vinegar grabs the detergent from the clothes and zaps residue right out of the clothes.

When done, my clothes smell like they been dried outside in the fresh air.

Note: When washing, I always use the "heavy setting" since it's actually easier on the gears in the machine. The "heavy setting" just means it spins in one direction longer(--and, I figure, the fewer times it has to bring itself to a full stop and change directions, the longer the parts will last).

The drain pump does not push the last bit of water out of the basin of the machine. This worries me; I worry the parts will rust. However, I keep the lids open for at least 48 hrs after use hoping what moisture remains in the basin will dry. If condensation collects on the lids thereafter, I open the lids until no condensation collects.

Because I have so much control over the process, I wonder if I don't have cleaner clothes than one gets with a regular washer.

I absolutely love not having to take my clothes to a laundry mat, and I don't mind air drying. I have a professional steamer (Jiffy) so I never have wrinkled clothes. My 'towels are stiff, but, it's good for exfoliation and blood stimulation of the skin.


I bought a washing machine (Model WT1101CW) in July of 2014. I bought the product new and it was used by one person during the length of that time. It recently gave me an LE error. I had the product looked at by a technician and he diagnosed the problem as being an electronic control board or wiring harness. Fixing these problems would have costed me $350, very closely resembling the cost of a brand-new washing machine.
I called LG customer service to inquire about why the machine, only being 3-years old, would require such extensive repairs. I wondered if LG only expects their products to last 3 years for a single user, to which they did not have a good answer. I spoke with an agent who ensured me they would take care of the problem. The agent initiated and an extended warranty on my product stating, It will be no cost to you for the warranty and it will cover all the necessary repairs to your machine. He instructed me to wait to hear from a representative to complete the process. I never received a phone call but did, however receive an email stating, We apologized that you are having problem with you washer. After reviewing the case the washer is too far out of warranty for assistance. Not only was this a surprise to me but also the grammar was that of a grade school student. Simply not professional or adequate for such a large company.
I called to follow up about this email thinking it was an auto-reply and that we could work together to resolve my issue. I spoke with Erica (ID: 10255) from the Extended Service Team and she instructed me that they would not be able to fix the product. She could not have been less empathetic to my plight. She was a cold stone wall that did not care about the customer at all. I have nothing good to say about their customer service. So, after a week of hassling with their customer service department, I have nothing to show for it but an appliance which lasted a single user only 3 years. I was told by an employee at LG that the problem would be fixed and they did not keep to their word. Do not trust anything they tell you.  They have no problem breaking promises to their customers.  The bottom line is the only thing that matters to them.
 I had planned on replacing all my kitchen appliances with LG products valued at over $3500. I know many individuals in General Contracting and will be advising them of my experience with LG and their customer service.  LG has lost life time of revenue from this customer and everyone I know; albeit over a service call which would have costed them less than $350.
Please let this serve as your warning for doing business with LG; a company which lacks empathy for their customers and has wrongly misplaced their core values in their bottom line.


Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.

So enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.

1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.
2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.
3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.
4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).
5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.
6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.


Two years after purchasing Bosch's "stainless" steel "rust-free" dishwasher with a "lifetime warranty" against rust, we discovered... rust. It was in a very specific area, where the metal filter attaches to the interior tub. We called Bosch and were told that it was our fault, that it was our water, our dishwasher soap, our flatware--anything but the dishwasher. We persisted, explaining that we use a water softener and a reverse-osmosis system and that our water is no worse, and probably a bit better, than average. Furthermore, if it was merely our water, then we would expect to see rust everywhere. As for our dishwasher soap--well--it comes from Costco, and I'm sure they'd take exception to Bosch's claim that it promotes rust. We offered our own theory, which is that the metal used in the filter is disimilar to the metal in the tub, resulting in a galvanic reaction and corrosion to the metals. Basically, the two different metals, pressed together in an aqueous environment, results in a battery. But for Bosch to admit this would be to admit a design flaw--the sort of admission that leads to a class-action lawsuit. We already know Bosch uses a variety of "stainless" metals. For example, the metal used on the door is a very inferior grade of stainless steel that is easily streaked and spotted. And the way you can tell is to use a magnet. If the magnet sticks then it's ferrous metal and more prone to staining.

This section is taken right out of the manual: "Stainless Steel TallTub: A rust-free, hygienic interior surface with a lifetime warranty."

Yet Bosch claims they don't actually guarantee the tub to be rust-free; they only warrant against "rust-through", meaning you will have to live with the rust until it eats a hole through the metal--until water starts pouring into some part of the dishwasher where it doesn't belong (hopefully not endangering you, your family, or your home, in the process). When you consider that Bosch basically expects you to use their rusting appliance until there's a catastrophic failure, you realize that the advertisements, selling points, and sales pitches regarding "rust-free" and "lifetime warranty" are all fraudulent.

Bosch offered no remedies and suggested that the rust can be removed (on our dime, of course). The problem is that even if we use a rust-removing product, the rust will return in time, because the source of the rust--a design flaw--remains.


Why didn't I buy this sooner??  This washer spins so well that even towels I wash in the evening are dry before I go to bed (I hang them and have a fan on them).  The washer holds plenty and runs incredibly quietly.  Loads that do retain more water after draining--towels/sweaters--do tend to make the first spin cycle a little loud (medium hum sound).  However, the initial spin is less than 10 seconds, so about the time I notice that the washer is making more sound than normal, it's over.

Some the reviews mentioning placing the bottom tray 'convex/concave' were confusing to me.  They may be clear to others, but I wasn't sure what the convex/concave was in reference to (me as I'm installing the tray with the washer on its side, or in reference to the washer when it's upright??), so here's what worked for me:  install the tray so that it sets like it should catch water (like the drip pan under your refrigerator) when the washer is upright.  Of course, with the holes in it, it isn't really a drip-pan, but hopefully this is easier to understand.

I found the 'quick connect' thing that was included with my washer kept leaking at the sink connection (I really had to make the connection at the washer tight to stop leaks there).  I went to Home Depot and got a new connector for the sink for eight bucks & haven't had a problem since.  I also tied both the hose & drain hoses together with velcro ties so they hang together in the sink.  When I'm not using the hoses, I then use the velcro ties to hang the hoses on a hook on the wall.

I do love my Downy ball, but I think it makes alot of noise in this washer as it floats & rubs against the steel washer basin, so I just add the softener directly to the final rinse (there are 2 rinse cycles).

As another reviewer said--- the lint filter is incredible.  I didn't think that little thing would catch much, but I really do have to empty it after every 1-3 washes.

If you're doing your laundry at a laundromat, save your money and time.  This little washer is fantastic.  I'm a laundry freak---I love doing laundry and I'm very picky about where/how it's done.  Not to mention the safety concern in public laundromats.  This washer is worth its weight in gold.  Really.


If you are looking through these reviews trying to find out if a Speed Queen is worth the money, in my family's case, we should have bought one years ago.  We tried an LG front load, and while it did okay, I repaired it a good bit, and the smell was an issue within months of using it new, even with leaving the door open.  When the motor finally died, we decided to try a top-load again.  We have a farm, and I handle all repairs in the evenings and weekends...vehicles, equipment, welding, plumbing, electrical, carpentry, etc.  My clothing reflects I am doing dirty work.  On the other hand, the wife and I have office jobs during the week, and need our work clothes clean.  So we bought a Whirlpool Cabrio since it was one of the few that offered a deep water option, and we started this year as our second year with it.  No matter what we did, soaps, settings, etc, the clothes smelled musty, anything heavy (canvas work pants, blanket, 1 pair overalls) made the machine throw an off-balance code, and the "heavy-duty" cycle was 78 minutes long...my wife was recently crying over her war with the laundry, so we took a SUV full to the laundromat and washed and dried EVERYTHING in 2 hours.  Watching those machines blow through a heavy duty cycle in 18 minutes (and my wife's tears) made me determined to "fix it", and research led to Speed Queen.  We are on our 2nd day of ownership, and its amazing...the heavy duty cycle is about 35 minutes.  With the quick wash, we did three loads in the time it took to do one in the Cabrio....we even re-washed damp loads that were done with the Cabrio, and the Speed Queen made the water dirty with the extra dirt it pulled out of just-washed, damp clothes from the Cabrio!  My wife is smiling over the fresh, clean smelling laundry, and that the Speed Queen just does not care if its washing heavy things...it's going to get them done.  Easily worth the price, considering the Cabrio barely a $100 less when we bought it new, and it gets the clothes done.  The smaller drum is not an issue, as it does the loads faster, and clean the first time.  If you are sick of the HE propaganda, and you actually do things that make you sweat or get dirty, this is the washer for you.


My dryer vents are very long and were clogged all the way through. I figured I would have to replace the vent since it was so full of lint. I tried this product on a whim, just to see if I could save the time and money of replacing the vent. I'm glad to say that this was the best $26 (and change) that I've ever spent on ANYTHING. This product WORKS! But you must follow the directions TO THE LETTER otherwise it will not work and cause you a lot of grief and aggrevation.

The trick (as detailed in the directions) is to duct tape each of the extenders when you're adding them on. NEVER run your drill counter-clockwise, and go VERY slowly. If you think you can put all four extenders on and shove this in your vent and clean it in one shot - think again. Go SLOW and EASY. Take your time. The lint will come out. It's real simple to determine when you've reached a point of blockage. The extender will start to bend. Twist the brush for a couple of seconds, then pull it out (keep the drill on - let it do the work). Then put it back in, and repeat for as long as it takes.

You will need a 3/8" or larger drill. A smaller drill won't work. I highly suggest a variable speed drill, as most of the time you want to go slow at first until you're certain the blockage has been removed, then you can go ahead and turn it on all the way.

But be VERY careful, especially if there is a bend in the vent pipe. The extenders can twist on you and it will break if you are not careful. But by following the directions, taking your time, and going slow and easy - this product does work, it will clean the vent and you'll save your self a lot of time and money by doing the work yourself and not hiring anybody to do the work or replacing clogged vent pipe.

A suggestion is to have a second person help you steady the extenders while inserting and removing them from the vent, especially when the vent pipe has bends in it. But if the pipe is straight and short, a single person can do it by themselves. Start with one extender, then work up to two, then three, and if needed, all four. But like I said above - do NOT use all four at once to start with. It simply will NOT work.

Bottom line - Follow the directions, duct tape the extenders together when needed, and take your time. It works!


The Keggermeister Kegerator comes packaged in double "double walled" boxes with a lot of Styrofoam packaging materials and materials. All of the minor components are neatly organized in a separate box inside of the Kegerator fridge. After removing all the pieces and laying them out, I began to read the instruction manual. The manual content is very clear and concise with well illustrated pictures on the assembly of the unit and pieces.  The box was undamaged in shipping
Assembly is fairly simple, anyone with basic knowledge of hand tools should have no problem.  It takes about 20-30 minutes to get it put together and running, the one thing I would advise any owner is to take your time and learn the pieces of the dispensing system while you assemble it. This is critical in understanding how everything works in order to be able to trouble shoot any issues should they arise.
The unit comes with a 2.5lb C02 tank that I was able to get filled up for less than ten bucks. I recommend a local paint ball shop since they are better equipped to fill this size of tanks up. Welding supply shops also work.
Once everything is assembled and it was plugged in it turned right on and gave a silent hum as if to let me know it was on. Even with the compressor cycling on and off it still maintains a very minimal noise level.

After allowing the refrigerator to operate with no keg in it for 24 hours I decided to give it a test drive.  The first keg used was a Full Keg of Budlight. After letting the Keg sit and cool in the Kegerator for another 24 hours it was time for the first pour which resulted in nothing but foam.  After doing a bit of trouble shooting I realized I had opened the valve on the C02 tank all the way for max flow. This resulted in over pressurizing the keg. To fix this I closed the valve and adjusted the regulator to having it near closed. I then pulled the pressure release pin on the coupler releasing the built up C02 in the keg.  The next glass I poured came out perfectly - pure golden bliss with a decent layer of foam.

About 40 minutes layer I tried to fill up a pitcher of beer and was presented with a near perfect pour.  This was more than enough of evidence that there was a consistent pressure and was at an optimal level for consistent pouring.
The exterior has a nice black matte finished that goes well with any dcor. The chrome guardrail and stainless steel spout add a nice touch to the overall exterior of the unit. Cleanup is easy and was simple with just a bit of standard surface cleaner.  I was also able to change out the tap handle with a standard Brewing Company handle.

Keg's that have been run through this unit: Pyramid Hefeweizen, Budlight, Budweiser, Dos Equis


Update - 10 months of use.  Awesome refrigerstor.  Works perfect in ny air conditioned garage.  Takes up very little room but holds alot of beverages.  It keeps beverages at 38 degrees easily.  I added 3 cases of sodas and within 8 hours were 38 degrees COLD.

The GOOD - The DAR110A2LDB appears to be awesome.  It was very easy to  switch the direction the door opens. It also is the perfect size and looks very kewl. Was surprised on solid glass shelving. Nice!  Looks roomy.  I am very impressed.

At 24 hours run time the refrigeretor was @ 52 degrees

The Bad - The refrigeretor has been running 48 hours in a 78 degree garage. Nothing has been put inside the refrigerator.  (I am am reluctant to load it with drinks if 52 degrees is as good as it gets) I have a thermometer that was in the old refrigerator. It was calibrated in my kitchen refrigerator. It reads 39 degrees in my kitchen refrigerator.
.
The Ugly - The thermostats dial had been turned almost to max. Temperature had increased to 55 degrees last night around 700PM.
This morning the temperature is almost 70.  The accumulated ice on the back inside panel is melting and water is overflowing onto the garage floor. The fan is NOT currently running. The outside temp is 80 degrees with 78% humidity. Garage is 79 degrees.
I am going to keep my old refrigerator that too big for my garage.
But it works, unlike the DANBY

***** UPDATE  -  The refrigerator is now working.  Danby responded within hours and was very apologetic.  Offered replacement or refund.  Also suggest I unplug and plug to reset. (Not in instructions)
Read that refrigerators needed to have stuff in it to cool properly. (Not in instructions)
I swapped the door opening side as soon as I unpacked. Was very simple and easy.  The gasket seal seemed to by sealing properly.  But it wasn't.
I put a flashlight inside and closed the door. Light was coming through the seal in 8--9 places. (This explained the excessive humidity).  I tried to adjust the door to frame but was unsuccessful.  It seems the the mounting holes in the left side are drilled maybe 1/8" off. The nuts part of the bottom bracket.
So I swap the door hinges back to original configurations and the seal fits perfect.
I filled the refrigerator with drinks last night and today at about 1:00PM the drinks were a cold 41 degrees.

Still need to swapped the hinges to the  left to work in my garage space.  I think Danby will  resolve the problem with the door seal hopefully by an updated design or work around for the hinge.


After 32 years, classic Maytags--made in Iowa--began to fail, and repairs proved expensive. I talked with appliance repair people and read online reviews of new machines. Over the last 30 years, once reliable U.S. makes have been taken over by marketers. Speed Queen is the only exception. Current European and East Asian makes offer little improvement, and some of those makes cost far more.

Speed Queen has not been a big part of U.S. consumer markets since the 1960s--instead focusing on commercial markets, mainly laundromats. Speed Queen seems to have overcome frequent failures of the early electronic appliance controls. Their electronic models are among the few laundry appliances continuing to carry 5-year, in-home, parts and labor guarantees. They are made in Wisconsin.

A neighbor and I bought two each of model AWNE82SP clothes washers and model ADGE8RGS gas-fired dryers from Yale Appliance in Boston--a reliable company with a service organization. There are around 30 such large, locally oriented appliance firms left in the U.S. Without one nearby, an Amazon partner could be a good choice. In the fall of 2016, the "82" model washers came with discounts and rebates. They were apparently being remaindered in favor of newer "92" models with more extras, costing about another $100.

Controls on a Speed Queen washer and dryer are similar. Both have a power button, a start button, a dozen function buttons, about 20 indicator lights and a time-remaining display. The washer has options for pre-wash, second rinse, wash temperature, soil level (wash time) and load size (water level). The dryer operates by either timing or moisture sensing. It has options for temperature and for dryness when using sensing. A permanent-press wash cycle with mid-range settings and no extras takes just under 30 minutes.

Speed Queen appliances should be prepared by thoroughly scrubbing drums with a household cleaner, adding a gallon of water from a pail before operating a washer, plus a full cycle with detergent before a first load of wash. Otherwise grime from manufacturing may stain a wash, and the drain pump of a washer might overheat. Installation guides have directions and warnings.

Speed Queen appliances are noisier than classic Maytags but vibrate less. They clean and dry clothes about as well. The washer has a bleach dispenser, which our Maytag lacked. After a permanent-press cycle, the washer leaves clothes damper than the Maytag did; they take longer to dry. Speed Queen provides stainless steel drums instead of enamel fused over plain steel like a classic Maytag. We saw no advantage for normal uses.


We shopped around for a washer / dryer that would last...

We looked at all the major brands and even checked out Consumer Reports.  Most of the major brands seem to be made very cheaply, with all sorts of electronics that can only fail - over time.  Those major brands are 'glitzy' - but will they last?

We had a top loading Speed Queen that we sold after 22 years of use (with no problems except replacing a dryer belt "once").  We sold it because we moved and the new house came with a front loading set.  After 22 years, they were still going strong.

We've moved again, so we looked at the new Speed Queens.  We are now on a a low producing well - so water usage is a major issue.  This washer only uses about 13.9 gallons of water - maybe less
for smaller loads.

After only 2 weeks use we think this machine is great.  I truly hope it is as good as Speed Queen has been in the past.  It costs more upfront, but in the long run should be cheaper "and" give us fewer headaches!

One thing I wish this machine had is a ringer to tell us that the washer is finished and a ringer to tell en the dryer is about finished, so we can remove the clothes while they are still hot with no wrinkles.  We have to set an additional timer to check the dryer.  An inconvenience but so far, we love this machine!

I was impressed with the 3 year warranty, as all the other brands only offer a 1 year warranty.  To me, that said something about the quality.  Also, Speed Queen's customer service has been very good to answer all my numerous questions.  Setting up the machine was not difficult to do. Level front to back & side to side and be sure to LOCK the nuts on each leg.  Remember to remove the stabilizers under the washer, (the directions are clear and the phone support is good) and save the parts for future moves of the machine.

UPDATE:
It is late July 2014 and we still love this washer & dryer...
It's easy to give a good review within the first few weeks, but 5 or 6 months later - after a lot of use - is a better review!

Our only complaint is that there is no Buzzer for either the washer or dryer - that lets you know the cycle is over.  It is a hassle to remember to set the timer on my phone. Really Speed Queen?

The dryer is plenty big and plenty hot.
The washer is plenty big too.

Both are very quiet. We can hardly hear them and they are close to our livingroom!


Well like everyone else I too have experienced the floor flood. My washer machine is 7 years old and very heavily used. I developed a leak at the bottom of the seal, more like a sudden gush. I found a 1.5 ft long rip in the bottom part of the seal. So had to decide am I going to replace it or get a new washer and drier?? Well new seal and both upper drum springs, and clamp was under one hundred dollars so it was a no brainer. I fixed it and glad I did. I was a very easy repair and only took about 45 minutes. The only reason it received four star is the seal I received was not formed 100% perfect but still fit fine and works great. I spent more time cleaning the floor flood.  First slide washer out and turn off water supply. Probably already did that anyways to clean up the mess. Oh and a good idea to unplug it from the wall outlet too. Then all you have to do is remove the 3 top lid bolts from behind and slide upper cover to the back and it comes off. There are 3 pieces of plastic trim that surround the washer door opening. I removed all but only really needed to remove was the trim on the hinge side of the door and then the little plastic cover over the hinge. The trim covers just pull off as they are held on with clips. There will be several screws holding the washer door on. Also I removed the upper console that houses the push buttons and that only had 3 screws holding it on and a clip on the right side. Some screws at the bottom of the front panel then pull the large retaining spring that secures the seal to the front door frame and then you will be able to remove the entire front frame assembly and be careful with the switch wiring on the right side of the metal frame. I found it best to just remove the screws and let the switch hang loose. Next you will find second large clamp and this one is a screw clamp. So just loosen the clamp then the entire seal will be loose and pull off. Now it is time to install the new seal in reverse order and double check to make sure that the new seal is properly seated before clamping it down. Keep assembling in reverse order and then you will soon be ready to turn water valves back on and power it up. Sit back and realize how much money you just saved!!!I decided to replace the upper drum springs and the large screw clamp at same time but was not really needed. Just thought it was a good idea. Hope this helps some one save their washer machine and keep them from going to the landfills before their time.


I bought the GE Unitized Spacemaker Model GTUN275GMWW six months ago to replace an older GE unitized model.  I was pleased with the previous model and used it for several years, so I didn't hesitate to buy the latest GE model when it broke.  Unfortunately, the new model is very different from my old model.  The new machine has been a clunker since the day it was installed!  Its extremely loud, it does not rinse properly, and now its leaking water and black soot from the bottom on the machine.

Ive been washing clothes for almost 30 years, and Ive used many different washing machines.  This is the only one I have any complaints about.  It is truly the worst home investment Ive ever made.

I contacted GE Appliance Service and scheduled a service appointment.  When the repair technician removed the front of the machine, he immediately saw that the machine is leaking and is rusted out.  To fix it, he needs to fully disassemble and rebuild the washer, including the transmission, tub seal, bearings, tub assembly, tub ring, inner and outer basket, and probably other parts.  This is a new machine, only 6 months old!

Given my experience, I do not recommend this machine.  Following is a more detailed description of the problems:

1) The washer leaks  Water and black residue (looks similar to black dirt when it dries on the floor) are leaking from the bottom of the washer on the left-hand side.

2) The washer is extremely noisy  My neighbors can hear it spinning from outside of my condo unit, even when they are a full flight downstairs.  It sounds like a train roaring down the tracks!  The noise interferes with phone calls and TV, and it definitely doesn't make me popular with my neighbors!

3) The washer does rinse properly  With just two regularly-sized bath towels in the washer, the washer will not rinse properly.  Even after running it through an extra 2 - 3 full wash/rinse cycles without soap (which takes a lot of time and wastes energy!) there are a lot of suds left in the water and there are suds on the sides of the tub after it spins.  To wash towels, I have to skim out the soapy water by hand.  I currently use high-efficiency (HE) laundry detergent, but the problem occurs with both HE and traditional laundry detergents.  As for the question of whether I'm using too much soap, Ive reduced the amount of soap and it didn't resolve the problem.  Also, I've been washing clothes for almost 30 years, and I've never had this problem with another washer, so I don't believe the problem is related to too much soap; the problem is with the machine and the way it rinses.


2 years ago we got a 5 cubic feet HE Samsung direct-drive top loader with what seemed like 462 presets. Very nice and very modern...at least we thought at the time. First year seemed to go OK, but the second year things started to (literally) fall apart. The first thing to go was the  top plastic door which rattled so much that the plastic shattered. Samsung was unwilling to cooperate or work with us so we had to fix it ourselves (Don't even get me started on how bad Samsung customer service is - that's a whole other post). Then we noticed that our laundry room was starting to smell like a fish hatchery - it was the disgusting Samsung. Even after we'd run a Pure Cycle our tub was left with little gummy bits of mildew and mold that stuck to our clothes. You could even see mold growing around the top end of the tub. My wife hated it, nothing got clean, and everything smelled like catfish. We eventually (luckily) got a Samsung notice that they were voluntarily recalling that washer because the tub could possibly spin out of the housing and cause severe structural damage or injury...lovely. We happily took the rebate option towards a new washer - the Speed Queen. It's been so nice being able to wash water-resistant items again, too (something you still can't do safely in a modern HE washer - heed my warning, moms, if your kids are still bed-wetting). Sure it uses water and it doesn't look nifty - but it works and works well. We kept the Samsung dryer as it seems to be fine (we actually had to exchange that too in the first 30 days).

Get this washer and just forget about it. It begs to be taken for granted. We haven't missed the large tub at all even with 2 kids. We got ours for 800 even from a local dealer (the 6 preset electronic model). You won't find a lot of reviews because of the amount of water it uses - but read what the people are saying in forums. You don't see any hotels moving to HE machines do you? They all still use these old workhorses. I fear the government will eventually regulate them out of business for water usage, so I'd get in while the gettin's good.

*edit* wanted to add that the new Eco mode is kind of...meh. Not really what Speed Queen is known for. It's fine for every day cleaning, but it's not that great for things like underwear. Use the Heavy Duty cycle for items like that as it is still an old-school wash-cycle and it only adds on 3 minutes or so.


Super Product and a Bargain at this Price!

This is the third Infiniti Pro I have purchased.  The first two I bought had a 1 1/2 inch brush that was permanently attached.  I wore out the brushes on both of these.  This version has TWO BRUSHES!!  The smaller one gives more curl.

After I wore out the brushes on the first two, I was looking for another brand that might have a better, longer lasting brush.  I found the Hot Revolver by Martino Cartier.  This was a very poor product and extremely overpriced.  The brush would not glide through my hair and it was worthless for smoothing.  The brush started to "click" and would no longer spin while in my hair.  Terrible product.

I bought this product because for the first time, I saw that it had TWO different sized brushes that were detachable.  I am part-Asian and I have very thick medium length hair with a moderate amount of body.  I do not recommend using this to dry hair from a completely wet state.  I usually partially dry my hair with a regular blow dryer (especially at the crown) and then finish the styling using this brush.  The brush heads turn in both directions and once you get used to it, you will be flipping from right to left with ease. I usually clip up the crown of my head and then start styling the "underneath" hair.  My hair has become a little unruly mainly because of the gray in my hair but this tool does an exceptional job of smoothing my hair.  I can do this with one arm.

I have had bilateral shoulder surgeries and I have a hard time raising my arm over my head.  This brush allows me to dry and style my hair without raising my arm.  I think for folks who have a hard time keeping their arm raised by using a round brush and standard dryer will find this tool to be a DREAM!  This dryer also makes my hair very shiny.

In the cool setting, you cannot turn the brush.  I use the cool setting if I want to "lock in" curls.  In the final phase of styling, I roll hair onto the brush and then flip to the cool setting with one finger.  Once the hair is cool, (less than a minute), the curl will be locked in and I manually unroll from my hair.  However, I only use this setting when I want a lot more curl.

The key to getting the most out of this brush is not loading too much hair at once and only doing small sections at a time.  This brush is a definite time saver and I can get professional results without straining.  When this brush stops "grabbing" your hair, it's time for a new one.  My brushes have lasted about 3-4 years.


Jan's hubby speaking. We have this machine and we don't know what's behind all the  whining and gnashing of teeth in the other reviews. What are these people talking about? We have one of these in an apartment we've been renting TO COLLEGE STUDENTS for 6 years. Not exactly skilled appliance operators if you get my drift.

Today the tenant called to say she thought the dryer cycle wasn't working. Went and checked it and yes, the machine doesnt heat when it goes into dry cycle. No biggie. The element is probably out. I'll check it tomorrow but I bet the it just wore out. It happens.

Am I mad? Am I calling the machine and the company names? No. The fact is this is a mini machine designed to Euro standards where people don't expect to wash big loads then dry them to a crisp in an American style dryer. The thing has worked flawlessly in a rental situation for 6 years. I would expect something to go wrong with it by now. I have had worse luck with Maytag front loaders (that are supposed to be great...they're Maytags after all) with control boards and pumps failing in one and two year old machines. Not so with this little guy.

If I cant fix the dryer element (and I bet I can) then I will toss it because the way I figure it I saved a ton of dough by not having to run a 240 volt line to it  and venting it 6 years back when I installed it...in fact what I saved was easily the cost of a new machine today.

All the woes these people are complaining about seem self-inflicted. Yes, open the lint trap at the bottom of the machine with a full tub and you will get a flood; it's a wet lint trap, not a dry one like we Yanks are used to. Even without the tub full a little water comes out. Maybe a cup. Catch it in a cookie sheet and you'll be fine. Stuff it too full and it will not dry...at all. No room for air to circulate.

I don't know what they're saying about noise. I personally watched ours run for 30 minutes today and you can barely hear it. Its certainly quieter than the Frigidaire front loaders we have in other units and in our house (that have not been without their issues too).

Bottom line: this is probably the best combo washer dryer unit on the market, and it appears reliable. Our experience with it proves it. We wouldnt hesitate to buy another.

UPDATE 8/8/11: Checked the washer out and found dryer motor worn out (easy to do...take top cover off and it right there). Called Summit in NYC-area and they had one for $50 plus UPS. I'll be back in business in no time.


So many people freak out when the zits arrive and give up when they start using this product because of it. This is my SECOND tube. I have combination skin prone to pimples and cysts on my cheeks and chin + the brown spots those things leave behind. Through the years I've used scrubs and various treatments including glycolic acid peels at the dermatologist's office. THIS will give you the benefits like a glycolic peel within a week IF you have the patience to use it for 7 days. The smooth, soft, clearer skin IS revealed AND people do notice you're doing something different!

Depending on how clogged your pores are and how deep the pimply goop is, will determine IF your face will seem to be at it's all time WORST. The thermal properties and the massage "wakes up" and sprouts every zit you can imagine! It did for me, and so did dermatologist office treatments. So I'd initially start using this on a Friday night when you can be a hermit for the weekend in case you have a Zit-fest.

After removing ALL makeup and REALLY cleaning the face and neck, use this product according to directions, adding water to reactivate the thermal properties a couple times (I do it 3 times). After rinsing, you'll feel as though there is a residue left on the skin after rinsing it off. DO NOT re-wash your face, leave it be. Don't even put on moisturizer, let your skin soak the residue in and adjust to the NEW SKIN SHERIFF in-town over the weekend.

I used it twice a day and on weekdays apply all my usual moisturizer w/SPF and makeup. IF running late, I skipped the morning Mini-Peel treatment BUT as soon as I got home I took off my makeup, cleansed my face and whipped out the Thermal Mini-Peel and worked it! After the first 7 days, I used it only in the evenings on weekdays and twice a day on weekends. I really like to spend the time to get at least 3 thermal re-activations per treatment so rushed mornings usually aren't conducive to it.

My skin is smoother, softer, clearer with LESS whiteheads, blackheads, zits than it has been in years. Even the brown spots  slowly faded without other "potions". Going forward, I used this only a couple times a week rather than every day because my skin IS doing so well. Point being, I didn't see myself using this TWICE a day forever :)


Just completed the repair of my dishwasher racks. Here are some of my experiences and comments about the product and the process.

First of all if you have a moderate amount repair work to do, set aside about 3 to 4 hours of time. Preparation is the key to long term sustainability of this kind of repair.  Directions provided with the product are very simplistic.  Mentioning scrape bubbled areas and sand.  Well, rust or corrosion is like cancer. The best way to insure longevity to the repair is to REMOVE the rust or as much as possible. Scrape and sand will be a purely cosmetic repair which will look better for a matter of months but will begin to deteriorate again.  If you access to a Dremel type motor tool, use it.  It will vastly improve the quality of the repair and the amount of time it will last.  I had bubbling tine ends that were rusting. Use the small cutoff wheels to trim the tine down to good wire.  Some of my tines on the rack have only 3/4 of the tine left, but not rust will be returning anytime soon.

Any bubbling areas on the rack itself, I changed to the mini cylinder/grinder wheel on the Dremel to grind/sand off the rust. Take it all the way down to shiny metal. If it is too rusted, consider removing that small section of the wire rack and using the caps to terminate the cut off ends. Be careful not to grind off vinyl in surrounding areas. It will only create more work with the liquid vinyl later.

It is mentioned here that the liquid vinyl dries quickly while one is applying it. This is true. Work on painting all the rack repair areas first. Apply in quick even moderate brush strokes. To prevent gobby drying on the brush, stick the brush back in the bottle when moving from one repair area to the next. Do not shake the bottle during this time, it promotes globby buildup on the brush shaft.  Minimize the liquid vinyls exposure to the air on the brush. First coat should dry within an hour or less. Do another coat the same way. Maybe even a third coat on some areas.

Lastly, "gluing" the tine caps on. Use the method in the directions. I saved this for last because it doesn't take but a small drop to "glue" the tine end on and the brush will probably be a little globby from the rack repairs which is okay.

I bought the 80 cap kit, only really needing to cap 50, but I put the rest on heavy used tine areas for preventative measures.  I bought an extra liquid vinyl bottle at the same time.  I used about a quarter of it. I ended up doing three solid coats on all the repair areas.

Now let see how it holds up long term.

Good luck!


If you're on a budget and need a range hood fan, this is THE super easy, no frills, no thrills hood fan. It is one of the most versatile oven range hood fan youll find out there. Its not the prettiest, but it has one job and does it fairly well. Its quiet and just works. The ONLY thing it doesnt come with is the power cord.

The first unit was damaged to hell during shipping and Amazon quickly sent a replacement. With that said, the sheet metal that its made out of is very thin and can be bent in/out of shape fairly easy. The range hood can accommodate round and rectangle vents, or no vents. That was the main reason why I got this, because I didn't know if my current one even had a vent. Thankfully it did and fits.

The instructions are somewhat convoluted with technical jargon that will make you say, WTF did I get into!? Rest assured, its super easy and NOT complicated at all, except for power.

First detach the silver vent attached to the hood. Depending on your venting, pop out the pre-punched holes for the correct venting style. Mock up your hood to the resting place and drill or (loosely) screw in the screws to hold it in place.

Take the hood off, and get a 3-wire pig tail plug (not included) to connect your power to the hood. Luckily I hoard and have a bunch of computer power cords for this reason. Strip the power wires and you should have white, black, and green. Before attaching the plugs, punch out the correct hole on the hood for power cord placement, then stick the cable through the hole to continue. Green get grounded to the green dyed screw underneath the power box, the white goes with white, and black goes with black. I used wire nuts to secure them and then used black electrical tape to further secure them.

Place the hood back on, plug it in and make sure it works before securing the screws. At this point I noticed it wasn't that loud, even on the high setting. I can still have a conversation with it on high.

Now for the duct work, remove the power, remove the hood, and attach the new venting duct attachment onto the hood. If you have an existing hood range, simply slide the old venting duct onto the new one. Once on, now secure it with duct tape along the exposed connecting points so that smoke doesnt seep through. Now you can say you used duct tape as intended.

Hopefully this has been helpful. Good luck!


Review of 36" -- I did a lot, and I mean a LOT of research on range hoods before finally selecting this one. We wanted one with a flat base, wall-mounted design with a narrow chimney, in stainless, with fairly simple controls, and ideally the metal baffle filters. This ticked all the boxes, and was also a good value, at a much lower price than some competing products.

We have not had it long (a month or so), and haven't used it heavily, but so far it is performing as expected. The "Quiet" mode is indeed fairly quiet, and good for general use. But we also wanted a powerful fan for more intense cooking sessions, and on high, I think this will do the trick. It really draws some air, and yes it's loud, but doesn't rattle or anything.

I kind of wish it had 4 lights, but the two do a good enough job of illuminating the stove, and they are a nice lower level light when no other lights are on in the kitchen.

The reason I'm not giving it 5 stars has to do with build quality - there are two key issues.
First, the chimney had a slight dent in one of the front corners, almost not visible, but enough to make it difficult to slide the inner chimney up and down. I had to gently tap the dented areaso that the inner part would move easily during the install. You can't actually see this dent once it is installed, so the only issue was the install. The hood was very well packaged in a heavy box with considerable foam, so I doubt it was damaged in shipping.
Second, after putting a lot of time into leveling the back of the hood (it's hanging on a brick wall), the front of the hood sits at a slightly different angle, i.e. one corner dips lower than the other. In other words, the front and back edge aren't aligned. I can sort of get the front to align if I push it "into place". It is not really noticeable when looking at it, so I consider it minor. But if you put a level on the front, and then on the back, you can tell. I guess there is just not enough rigid structure in it to keep the two sides aligned.

But again, overall, I'm quite pleased, and do not regret the purchase. We just did a major renovation of our kitchen, and I was really excited about adding this hood - before we had this small built-in hood under a cabinet. This new one is a key new visual element in the room, and also seems to work well.


While the all in one compact washer and dryer by Haier gets great reviews from a compact appliance website vs amazon's less than great reviews of it, this stand alone compact Haier washer received consistently positive reviews everywhere I searched.  The capacity is large enough for 2 people's wash and is about 75% capacity of a full sized washer. I did lots of research before finally picking this model.

The first one I received was extremely damaged- it looked as if it was squeezed from its sides and burped itself out the front.  The outside panel was bent out of shape with dings all around the container, not even an option to keep it.  Amazon was quick to exchange it and the next day fed ex picked it up.  A week later I received a new one in much better shape.  Like people said on previous reviews, an internal styrofoam packing around the inner drum could prevent all of the shipping damage problems, but for the most part everything else is packed well.

Most people who use this machine will roll it out to their kitchen or bathroom sink when they are ready to use it;  I decided to put it in a small closet adjacent to the bathroom and hard plumb it to the water lines underneath the bathroom sink.  The awesome thing about this machine is that it has a hot water inlet and a cold water inlet, it doesn't just combine all the water into one inlet like other compact machines; it has the option for a hot water wash.  Hard plumbing requires picking up 2 qty, 6' length, 3/8 size connector *dishwasher* hoses at H.D. with adapters included in the bag to hook it to the back of this washer.  Just needed to buy the 3/8" T connector to run one line to the washing machine, one to the sink coming off the water line.  The washer drain hose will still need to go down the sink, but I am looking into hard connecting that soon as well.

Operation of the machine is straight forward, decent led display, easy to set your options and pause.  I used the kill-a-watt meter on it and the washer proved its energy efficiency through all cycles including spin, using only 2 - 2.25 amps and only 150 - 269 watts.  However, only during the beginning agitation cycle, it pulsed the bathroom lights slightly that were on that circuit, might be a slight interference on the line from the washer's electric motor.  Not a big deal after the agitation cycle is done.

Have run about 5 loads so far, and yes the back "legs" are removable, there is a small wrench tool included in the bag to remove the pegs and put the included wheels on all the way around.

You cant beat the price and performance of this compact washer.

-J


Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.

So enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.

1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.
2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.
3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.
4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).
5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.
6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.


I wanted to love this washer after a bad experience with an HE top-loader, but I had to return it due to a back-up of soap bubbles pouring out of the washer hose where it meets the wall (the standpipe) every time I used the machine (see the pic below). Every time I did a load of laundry, a trail of bubbles would leak out of the standpipe and drip onto our wall and behind the machine, causing potential moisture/mold issues. Luckily the retailer agreed to take it back.

I called Speed Queen's technical support numerous times and while they were polite and clearly familiar with the problem, they couldn't do anything to fix it. I tried reducing the amount of detergent, trying different types of HE detergent (though this is a traditional agitator-style machine it requires HE detergent), adding a standpipe adapter, but nothing worked. Speed Queen politely insisted the problem must be my plumbing or the location of the standpipe, but out of the 4 washers that have been installed in the exact same set-up in the past 4 months, only the Speed Queen had a bubble problem. Speed Queen said the problem is because their machines (especially the pump) are very powerful, but I don't think that's the case. It seemed to me that bubbles would get trapped in the hose during the rinse/spin cycle, agitate within the house due to some defect until they turned into a lather, and then discharge at the end of the spin cycle in a torrent.

Also, though this machine purports to have a best-in-the-business warranty, good luck using that warranty. When I called Speed Queen to see if we could set up a warranty call to see if there was something wrong with our pump or hose, Speed Queen told me to contact the retailer or to look up a local service provider directly. Speed Queen doesn't seem to provide any warranty services, so it is up to your retailer to handle any warranty claims.  In this case, our retailer was going to charge us a $129 service fee if they determined that there was nothing wrong with the machine so we passed on that.

Another quirk of this machine is that the Eco Normal cycle uses no hot water even if the machine is set to warm or hot. All Normal washes are cold water only. If you want a warm or hot wash, you have to use the Permanent Press, Delicate or Heavy Duty cycles. Eco Normal also provides no extra rinse option.

Luckily our retailer took this back, or else we would have a big problem with the overflowing bubbles. We've had a replacement front-loader for a week now and no bubbles with this one.


First of all, I've asked Amazon to send it in discrete packaging and that never happened, so I found out that this arrived because my landlord called at work to ask why I had a washer. Not the product's fault, but still frustrating.

There was a weird smell right out of the box. Not strong enough to be off-putting, but it was noticable. I'm usually a wimp when it comes to smells but it wasn't so bad.

As other reviewers pointed out, there's no way to connect to a faucet unless you go to the hardware store to buy a part to go onto your tap. A little annoying, but I use an old jug to fill up the tub. I'll probably be headed to the hardware store later today. The electrical cord is a bit short, so I have to awkwardly stage it in my bathroom, but if you have multiple outlets, that's probably not such a big deal for you.

The dryer basket is small, MUCH smaller than I anticipated, and three pairs of jeans and two shirts was a little bit much for it. I put two pairs of jeans and a shirt and it did great. The washer is larger than I expected and can handle larger loads fairly well, but the dryer can only handle a few items at a time. Also- pro tip, invest in a color-catcher. If you have dyes that run, it will stain the inside of your machine.

Now, the drain.
The drain is badly designed. The pump isn't strong enough to get all of the water out if you use the drain hose to drain into something like a bathtub, so I need to lift the machine to get the last bits of water. If I don't, the second the hose touches the ground, it sprays all over. Like a full cup or two of water. Minor design flaw which is mostly gravity's fault, so I can deal with that.

But when you're spinning something in the basket (anything- oversized load, undersized, ANYTHING), the hose will discharge whatever water is left in it without the machine set to "drain," even if the hose is flat and you have what you think is all of the water out.
Invest in a good towel and/or a command hook/zip tie situation to keep the hose in place.

Why four stars then? Because this thing actually gets my clothes really,really clean. Much more than the community washer in my complex. It's a pain in the ass, but it's light, fairly inexpensive, and it does the job credibly.

If you're on the fence and don't mind minor hassle and a trip to the hardware store, it's 100% worth it. If you're looking for something you can just walk away from, invest in a full set.


If you ever bought a mini-fridge with a "shelf freezer" the expectation is pretty much the same.  They are horrible at being freezers.  The only ice you will get is around the freezer coils.  Thus this is a manual defrost unit.  I keep two medium sized desiccants in the freezer unit in hopes of preventing frost, and not deal with defrosting the unit.  Only time will tell if it works.

This unit includes a 10 cube mini-ice tray. I left it in the freezer compartment over the weekend only to have three ice cubes form.  Turning up the 'fridge dial from the recommended 4 to 5 (out of 7) yields about 5 cubes a day later. The rest is still liquid water - not even frost.  It does not keep anything frozen inside the box.  Items must keep direct contact with the freezer coils and plate.  It did not keep a frozen fruit bar intact even when in direct contact with the plate.  The other side shows signs of mush.  My frozen burger with bun only stays frozen on one side.

On the plus side it has a soda can rack which also holds my healthy and delicious coconut water.  You can keep quite a few things on the door and inside the fridge with the expectation of a proper chill.  I keep a small box on the bottom filled with oranges which remain nice and cold.  Never cover the racks with paper or otherwise block the flow of air to prevent warm spots in the unit.  This depends solely on the concept of cold air falling to refrigerate and has no fan. Thus why the freezer is a bust.

The instructions say when you first turn on the unit to set it to the max of 7 a few hours until it reaches the proper cooling temperature.  I only did so a couple of hours and wonder if I did not "prime" the freezer function as a result.  I gave up on it being a freezer and set the dial back to 4 to keep the compressor from overworking for little return.  The manual says the lowest temperature you can achieve is 27 degrees F.  But I am not willing to freeze my regular food for the sake of ice.

I can not complain as it was bought for me in exchange for a big I.T. favor done for a work friend. All in all it runs very quite and is a great little 'fridge, just not very much of a freezer.


Purchased this washer and matching dryer not from Amazon but from a local dealer.  This is the BEST washer and dryer I have ever owned!  Let me say it again---THIS IS THE BEST WASHER AND DRYER I HAVE EVER OWNED!

Backstory:  Purchased a Kenmore washer and dryer 4 years ago after my previous Kenmore washer gave up the ghost.  Had that machine for many years.  Long story short, both the washer and dryer purchased 4 years repeatedly broken down at least every year.  The extended warranty covered all the repair which ended up costing more than the original machines.  But this was the last straw:  Once again the dryer honked out and the repair man was 3 weeks away.  Unwilling to continue hauling laundry to laundromat for drying, I thought there must be something better.  Let me also say, when the repairman was 3 weeks away, the dryer had just been fixed after waiting another 3 weeks so in total, I was without a dryer for around 6 weeks.  The bearing went out on the washer and the new bearing did not fit well so meant the washer made even more noise and would require yet another fix.

Decided enough was enough,  Purchased the set of SpeedQueens and had the Kenmore hauled to the junk yard.

The SpeedQueen washes the clothes so much faster.  The Kenmore took an average of 1 hour and around 10 minutes to wash a load.  It would become unbalanced taking even longer.  The lid lock was annoying.  The SpeedQueen washes a load in 30 minutes.  Has no lid lock.  Allows me to adjust the water to whatever I prefer.  Is super quiet.  The dryer works very well.  Dries everything much faster than my Kenmore.

The problem is that SpeedQueen is not carried by chain stores but only sells to independent appliance dealers like mom and pop shops.  That is why it never came up when I was searching for a washer and dryer to replace the ones I had.  When I went to the store, I had a machine picked out but when I stumbled upon the SpeedQueen, I went with that.

The nice thing is that there is no extended warranty on SpeedQueen because the warranty that comes with the machine is so good.  The washer is expected to last something around 26,000 loads of laundry!  It works perfectly.

Washing with my previous Kenmore was like the old days, washing took all day if there were multiple loads.  With the SpeedQueen, washing is a breeze.

Had I thought about SpeedQueen 4 years ago, I would have purchased that.

As I said, this is the best machine I have ever owned.


<input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/E1wujgzZwPS.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91dbQOJuxQS.png" class="video-slate-img-url"> This makes ice really fast!

You can fit just over 1/2 gallon of water in the reservoir and you can have ice in as quick as 6 minutes.

The unit is very easy to operate.
- Fill it with water
- Plug it in
- Choose either small or large ice

Della sells another model DELLA Premium Ice Maker Portable Counter-Top, Daily Ice Making Capacity: 26 LBS (Silver) and I couldn't decide which one to get, so I got them both of them because in an emergency two is better than one and each one produces 26 lbs of ice per day.

A 20 lb bag of ice at Walmart is $4 and once it melts it's gone. When your ice melts in your cooler now, you can cycle it back through this machine and make more ice. I'll let you do the math.

Anyway, back to the machines themselves...
They are identical in every discernible way except for the lid.

They both hold the same amount of water and ice and can hold about 1.5 pounds of ice in the little bucket that is in there.
They both have small/large ice sizes to choose from.
The units themselves are pretty much the same dimensions.

 - This model has the buttons on the front and a smaller viewing window.

 - The premium model has a bigger viewing window, so you can actually see inside where the magic happens and how the machine makes the ice.

At least right now, the prices on each of these is the same, so it just comes down to aesthetics and what look you prefer.

I did receive this product at a discount in exchange for my honest review.

If this review was helpful to you, please let me know by clicking yes/helpful.

Thanks,
Travis


I have had this machine for 5 months now.  I purchased this brand/model because, like many people, I recall my grandparents having a washing machine for 30 years.  My last two machines lasted 6-10 years each.  Admittedly, they both cost less than this one - I paid $900 for this and around $600 for each of the last two.  But, for me, it's worth the extra money to get (hopefully) quite a bit more lifespan out of the thing.  So far it has worked perfectly.  (Admittedly, after only 5 months that's to be expected from any washing machine.)

One note:  this machine will not allow water to fill the tub while the door is open.  I don't like that because I put the detergent in the drum first, and I want water to dissolve it before/while I put the clothes in.  There is a simple way to bypass this door lockout - can be found on Youtube and elsewhere online.

Another point:  I never use Eco mode.  Clothes seem to come out cleaner using 'heavy duty' mode.

I spoke with a washing machine repair man who told me that Speed Queen and Fischer&Paykel are the two brands he would recommend at this time.  He has been repairing washing machines for about 40 years.

Only time will tell whether this model lasts me as long as I would like (20+ years would be great).  I will update this review if any problems arise.

A couple notes for other reviewers:
1)  I also had a High Efficiency (Samsung) washer before this one.  Many people complain about the mold/musty smell from front-loading HE washers.  While I too had that problem at first, I realized it was because the drum wasn't drying out when the machine was not in use.  So I began leaving the door cracked open when the machine was not in use.  That allowed the water to evaporate and fixed the mold/musty smell.  (I read this on a forum somewhere...Europeans apparently have been doing this for some time.)

2)  Some complain about the delivery process.  My total purchase price for this model was $899 - which is competitive for this model vs. purchasing at any brick-and-mortar store I looked at, and included free shipping.  Free shipping for a washing machine.  I live in Kansas, and this was sent (by third party seller) from New Jersey.  So yes, it did take something like a month for the machine to arrive at my house, but given I did not pay for shipping such a heavy object 1000 miles, I can't complain at all.


D'Addario Acoustic Guitar Humidifier D'Addario Acoustic Guitar Humidifier and D'Addario Humiditrak - Bluetooth Humidity and Temperature Sensor are a must have accessory if you have valuable instruments that are exposed to varying humidly and temperature extremes. Failure to keep your high value instruments within the 45 - 55% Spec will result in not only warping  and checking of the finish, top, neck and bridge. Your playability and action will suffer as well. Over time your instrument will suffer tone loss resulting in either excessive repair by a Luthier, or your total frustration and eventual neglect of your guitar. I recently had my D28-12 Martin show signs of dryness after being left in the stand overnight in an AC controlled room showing 40% in the humidistat. There was a puckering look like mini washboard ripples on the top. Long story made short. If you are not checking your humidity and are not taking steps to protect your instruments you will eventually come to regret your mistake. 75% of the guitar repair shop's work is directly a result of low humidity induced damage.  Great tool, I highly recommend it! I included pictures of the twins, Martin D28 and a D28-12, and my 1969 Hummingbird she is as sweet today as it was the first night I brought it home 35 years ago..  HUMIDIFY
---UPDATE--- The new update has fixed all problems with connectivity, battery life (now 6 months) These units pair as soon as I open the app and update the data right away. I do not know why anyone is having problems now. Just update to the new Version 1.15 and your units will function correctly.
5 Stars A++ RECOMMENDED
VOTE thumbs UP IF YOU FOUND THIS HELPFUL


A remarkable little washer!  Living in an apartment with coin-op laundry facilities in a different building is just not at all convenient, so a small clothes washer seemed the way to go.  I read lots of reviews and watched youtube videos for research before buying, and this seemed to have very good comments.  It came very well boxed, no damage at all.  Easy to unpack, easy to install the few items (bottom plate, casters) that needed to be put on.  A screwdriver was all that was necessary.  It comes with a faucet adapter and hoses.  If the adapter doesn't fit your faucet, I think a local hardware store will have one, as that is what I had to do with my previous clothes washer.  The manual directs fastening the drain hose to the inlet hose with a cable tie, but though two of them came with the washer, they are too short to fit around both hoses.  The curved drain hose attachment does not fit the kitchen sink edge, and I have my doubts about it staying put while draining anyway, so I tied the hoses together just below the faucet with a shoelace, which works perfectly.

I ran it through a cycle with just a little detergent and water to clean it, as instructions say to do, to verify it worked.  Then I washed a load of clothes, but made the mistake of putting in too many, and though it handled it fine on the "heavy load" setting, I will have to learn to do smaller loads more often.  (My previous machine was a pain to set up and use and I was used to waiting until I had a lot to wash.)  Everything went well and the clothes got clean, a little more damp than I would have expected, but I did load a lot into it.  It is VERY QUIET!  I'm amazed at how quiet it is!  It seems to rinse thoroughly, draining, spinning a bit, then adding water for more rinsing.  The times for each cycle are given in the manual...a nice touch.

I did call the customer help number (it's right inside the washer tub permanently) to ask about lint filter, but this washer does not have one, and lint is expelled with the draining water.  (The service number was answered immediately by a human being without having to wait or push a lot of buttons.  Good service.)  I suppose if lint is a concern, a strainer could be used in the sink drain to catch it, especially for pet hair.  Anyway, I've only done a few loads of wash so far and it's far easier and more convenient than I could have hoped for, so I have no hesitation about recommending this washer for an apartment, or even as a second machine.  I'll post again in a few months.


First, let me say that I rarely write a review unless the purchase/product is exceptionally good or exceptionally bad.  Happily, this purchase falls in the "exceptionally good" category.  So, let me run down the reasons that I have been pleased so far with this purchase:

1.  Shipping speed.  We ordered this set around noon on a Tuesday.  Within an hour or so, I received the shipping confirmation.  The next day, Wednesday, I received a call from the trucking company to set up a delivery time for the following day, Thursday.  The washer/dryer set was delivered before noon on Thursday.  That totally blew me away!

2.  Packaging.  The washer, dryer and two pedestals were, as I expected, packaged separately.  What I didn't expect was the quality of the engineered packaging.  It was pretty amazing and, as a result, these heavy units came out of the packaging completely unscathed.

3.  Installation instructions.  They were clear, fairly concise, and not cluttered up with pages and pages of "lawyer speak" safety instructions which often seem to be designed not to make the product installation safer but, rather, to limit the manufacturer's liability in case of an accident.

4.  Energy efficiency.  Yes, I knew that these were HE appliances but when I read on the Energy Guide that the total cost to operate the washer for a year was only $12, I was in disbelief.  Honestly, I'm still somewhat skeptical but that's what it said.

5.  Operation.  I would never have believed that a washer/dryer could be so quiet if I had not heard it (barely) with my own ears.  They are amazingly quiet.  Our  wash room contains the washer, dryer and a large upright freezer.  Honest to goodness, I can hear the freezer running over the washer and dryer.  I can't really tell if the clothes come out any cleaner but my wife says that the time to wash and dry is considerably less than our old set.  She also loves the ease of operation as well as the extra storage space provided by the pedestals.  If she's happy (and she is) then I'm tickled plumb to death.

6.  Long term reliability.  This one I can't answer yet.  Only time will tell but, based on our overall experience so far, I'm expecting good things.

One caveat regarding installation is that these things are HEAVY.  I think that the washer and pedestal weigh in the neighborhood of 275 lbs.  So, this would be a good time to have some big strong friends to give you a hand.

If we experience reliability problems, I will post an update to this review but I'm really not expecting that to happen.


So far, Im impressed with this Max Burton 6515. It is rated at 1800W. I measured 1755W with my  Kill A Watt  meter. Thats close enough for me. I have received NO COMPENSATION OF ANY SORT for my review and I would be the first to tell you if a found a flaw in any product.
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Areas that could be improved:
1) Finer control in both power mode and temperature mode would be nice
2) The dial control is a bit finicky. I left a message with customer service to ask about it. They did return my call within 1 hour but were of limited help. Still, I am impressed that they returned my call.
3) It would be nice if the power level ( PL  mode ) went lower than 500W. Though  Temperature  mode can go lower, 500W is just not low enough for some types of cooking. PL 1 is perfect for quesadillas. To get lower heat than that, you have to switch to temperature mode.
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Things Im impressed with:
1) Its VERY powerful. It brought two cups of room temperature water at sea level in a coated cast iron pan to a simmer after 1 min, 15 sec and to a rapid boil after 2 min, 30 sec.
2) Its nice to be able to get a low, constant and reliable temperature. You have to use  Temperature  mode for this but set to 100F ( non-probe ), it melted chocolate without burning. I let it run for two hours this way and the chocolate did not burn.
3) The case feels very strong and the feet have adjustable height ( screw type ) for stability.
4) The case is grounded. For safetys sake, ALL electrical appliances in wet locations should be grounded.
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Tips and tricks :
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Please, ALWAYS use a GFCI outlet for any electrical appliance in a wet location. The life you save may be your own !
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The plug is for a standard 120Vac 15 amp outlet, however, during testing I did see some current draws slightly higher than 15 amps. Even though it will function on a standard 15 amp outlet, I recommend using a dedicated 20 amp run with 10 awg minimum Romex right back to the main panel. Thats how mine is set up and I've had no heat or voltage drop problems with it. Note that my equipment is NOT NIST traceable and is subject to error. I recommend waiting for my final review before purchase.


LG washer opened during wash and did thousands of dollars in water damage. LG refused to take responsibility for their product.

Beware of LG!  Do your research first and save yourself some trouble.
We purchased an LG Front loading washing machine that opened up during a wash cycle and LG is refusing to cover any of the damages to our home.  This is particularly egregious because LG is aware that if their front loading machines over fill with water that the door will pop open.  LG is knowingly selling front loading washers that will open if, for whatever reason, they get too full of water.  We thought the washer was great before it just opened up.

MODEL NAME: WM2650HRA  SERIAL NUMBER: 306PNAJ6G432
PURCHASE DATE: 4/20/2014 Retail price $1,099.00

It worked perfectly until 5/10/2014 when during a sanitation wash cycle the front door opened and poured water out causing over $3000 (supported by estimates from licensed contractors) of damage to our living space by ruining wall to wall carpet and some of the sub floor.

On 5/10/14 LG service representative admitted that too much water would open the door.
On 5/19/14 Mr. Blake also stated that too much water would cause the door to open.
This proves that LG was well aware of this feature of their front loading washing machines.

5-20-2014 LG Call CNM140520553488 Representative Katie refused to provide smart diagnosis report from 5/10 incident and refused to provide her last name but transferred me to a supervisor.

5-20-2014 Adrian ID7008 seemed surprised that two people at LG had admitted the defect regarding the door opening.

On 6/16/2014 our claim was denied by LG

We have filed a formal complaint against LG with the North Carolina Dept of Justice Consumer protection dept. which has been assigned file number 1408167  LG replied with a frivolous reply claming there was nothing wrong with the washing machine.

Complaint case # 31032574 has now been filed with the Better Business Bureau. LG replied with a frivolous reply referring us back to
Mr. Blake.

Before you buy any of their products you should be very aware that LG used to be Goldstar!  Would you buy a Goldstar appliance (remember the junky computer monitors)??  They changed their name for good reason but some things remain the same.


I bought this dishwasher and I love it. Many of the people that are giving this dishwasher low ratings are blaming the dishwasher for their bad results. Most low end basic dishwashers clean just as good as the high end dishwashers and faster too, if you follow some simple steps. (1) I set my Water Heater to 130 F. (2) I use Powder Industrial CASCADE with PHOSPHATE "Yes you can still buy this stuff online". (3) Fill both detergent compartments full. (4) Use Rinse Aid. (5) Before starting the dishwasher, turn the hot water on at the kitchen sink so the water line flushes out any cold water. (6) Learn how to load your pots, pans, dishes, and glasses correctly. Do not block the center wash tower or place tall object next to it. This will cause cleaning problems in the top rack. (7) Do not place pots or bowls in the bottom rack towards the front, because the water jets need to wash the detergent cups clean. Follow these simple steps and see how wonderful your dishes turn out with less time. Also, the hotter the water the better drying you will have because hotter dishes evaporate the water much faster. And by the way, the low end dishwashers, that are not Engery Star compliant, are louder than the high end dishwashers, because they use bigger water pump motors and use more water. This is why they get your dishes cleaned faster! The newer high end dishwashers, on the market today, have tiny motors and use very little water, so they can bragg about it being Energy Star compliant and it takes 3-1/2 hours to get you dishes clean. The bigger the water pump motor with lots of water, the stronger the water jets inside the dishwasher, and the machine will be able to clean your dishes faster. Unfortunately, most people today want quiet machines with fancy lights, use a cup of water to save Mother Earth, and take hours and hours to do the job our old, louder, & large water quantity machines could do in less than an hour.  It all comes down to two choices: do you want an ultra quiet high end machine that takes 3-1/2 hours to clean and makes you feel good about yourself, or a machine that you can hear the water from the jets inside and takes 2 hours or less to clean?  You can't have your cake and eat it too. I choose faster cleaning!


This is my first replacement filter for my fridge.  At this point it is hard to say if I'll be satisfied, but it looks like this is a good choice so far.  I ding it a star for not including enough information and taking way too long to clear.  I give it 4 stars because it seems to work as well as the original and it is 2/3 the price.

I seem to remember the stock filter taking longer to fully clear than 5 minutes but I didn't time it.  This time I timed it (easy, because the fridge shuts off the flow after 1 minute).  It took 18 minutes to fully clear (I'm glad I turned off ice maker before I put it in).  Even after 15 minutes there were more tiny floating bits than tap water, and the taste was off.  I wouldn't describe it as plastic, but otherwise it sounds like what other reviewers noticed.

As far as other concerns brought up in other reviews:
- No leaks, no drips.  The flow is about the same as the stock filter; 15 seconds for 1 pint.
- The filter is a little bit taller (and slightly heavier) than the stock filter, but fit the space for it without issue.
- The threads and how it fit were absolutely no problem.
- There is a sticker in the box I got for when to change the filter (I hadn't noticed before I took one from the Samsung box).

There was a tiny tube of what I believe is silicone grease, there may be enough for the next filter, which will be the Samsung stock replacement I got at the same time.  I'll try to remember to followup but it will be about 3 years, based on our usage and its gallon rating.

We use about 26 cups of water per week (mostly for coffee, some ice) which means this 300 gallon filter should last about 3 1/2 years.  I don't see any reason to change it early, so I'll add 2015 after the July sticker with a Sharpie; this will give us about 2 gallons per week so I have a margin.

Our usage may be lighter than some folks, we like to filter out the minerals from tap water that would get in the coffee maker, and of course our ice comes through the filter, but we cook with tap water.  Check your own usage, don't use my numbers!

My fridge has a light that comes on to indicate it is time to change the filter, but it comes several times before it is really time to change it.  I don't know how they determine when to light the light, so I ignore it and go by the date on the filter.

Good news, my wife looked at what it filtered and figured out that the stock filter does not filter out fluoride, this one should be the same as they both are described as blocks of carbon.