Let me say that I do like FLUKE products, I always trust FLUKE when it comes for all my digital multimeter or a multitester needs. I have been using my Digital multimeter at work & home for years and has never failed me. When I was offered to review this handy industrial grade FLUKE 971 Temperature and Humidity sensor I gladly accepted it trusting that it will be accurate and will provide years of service.

The unit came with four AAA batteries installed and the temperature setting to degrees Fahrenheit. You can change the switch to read degrees centigrade if you wish also you can disable the auto shutoff feature. These buttons are accessible inside and adjacent to the battery compartment. This meter also has back-lit LCD display and the readings were easy to read. Pushing the power button automatically starts the humidity and temperature reading instantly.

Now, I am not a licensed contractor nor I repair HVAC epuipments but I do see the need for accuracy where the industry demands it. From my observations right out of the box the unit was very accurate but there is always a chance for these meters to go out of calibration as some of the reviewers have mentioned here. The accuracy of 'RH' is the key, yes these meters can get off calibration especially when subjected to extreme changes in temperatures and humidity you need to give the meter few mins for it to acclimatize to the environment you are trying to get reading from.

This is not your grandma's temperature probe. This is a very capable sensitive instrument which built to last. This is an industrial grade unit, built to take a beating! IMHO much quicker than a sling psychrometer and Yes, it does respond slowly which is the nature of thermo-hygrometers so before you say it is slow to respond thing again what you are using it for and you will see that it will provide faithful readings.

Also, if you do not use the instrument for a long period, the meter can 'dry-out' causing the inconsistent readings that some reviewers have mentioned here. Cycling in a humidity chamber for few days at 90%+ humidity and 20C/68F to 30C/86F can often bring a dried-out meter back into factory calibrated specifications without having to spend a tons of money on factory calibration cost.


I read up on this model prior to buying in March and have now had it for 6 weeks or so. I am now on my 4th 1/6th barrel as more "friends" seem to be stopping by.

 I found this model a bit intimidating at first to put together as I assumed the bag with all the "spare parts" would need to be used in the assembly (the directions are not great). This was not the case. Once I got going the directions made more sense and I was pouring perfect pints in no time.  Note: the tower washer that holds it in place was connected to the hole plug (provided to allow you to use a a mini fridge). Once I figured that out (not in instructions) I was all set.

I have since bought a cleaning kit and have completely disassembled the tap and put it back together without any problem. I also bought the tap covers to keep the lines from getting any contamination and picked up a cool Lowenbrau tap handle.

I read other reviews regarding the thermostat and the regulator. The thermostat works fine on mine. I have it set at about 75% of the max and my beer is consistently about 34 degrees. The regulator is sufficient at this point but I will upgrade. You really have to tweak it to get the proper pressure (I keep it at about 10 psi) after cleaning the beer lines.
My kegerator came with a 2 lb co2 tank. I brought it down and swapped it out for a 2.5 lb. I was told when that needs to be refilled I can swap it for a 5lb although the 2.5 is fine as there are several places to fill or swap in my area.

This thing fits 2 1/6th barrels no problem so at some point I'm going to to upgrade to the double tap tower and set up the pin lock connection for the Corny keg.

Overall I'm loving this thing. You can't beat the price or the prime shipping.


Living in a small apartment in NYC this product is a godsend. However, we wish Danby's design department think things through.
This is our third generation of Danby dishwashers. The first one had problems with the window leaking after a year, and the soap dispenser and door broke.
The second generation Danby improved the soap dispenser problem and created a well for the soap to be placed in, plus, the spray arm was built beefier and worked nicely. But the rack was a disaster. Less material made in the rack produced too many wide spaces for small things to fall through. This dishwasher was sensitive to the amount of soap you used and tend to foam up quite often. This window did eventually come out on us as well and we glued it back in and all was fine until the timer went and our dishwasher was prone to flood from the feed water not stopping.
Alas it was time for the third generation.
1. The delivery was flawless, the packaging perfect.
2. The spray arm is terrific.
3. The rack, still much to be desired. I think Danby should go back to the old one, customers will approve of this one. (We kept the rack from the first one)
4. The mechanical timer has been replaced with an electronic one which is great except the programs are many, P1,P2,P3,P4,P5. Which is complicated enough but the dishwasher does not let us know how much time we have left, what the cycles mean, go to your manual folks and make a copy, take a magnet and viola! With all the digital wonders out there another read out would be nice because the length of time on the programs has been extended and we find ourselves waiting for that final beep. The most annoying thing about this is the space of time between the final wash cycle and the when the water drains out of the basin. This is a concern for us as we like to open the door to air-dry the dishes and shut off the power.
What we like is that the dishes do come out nice and clean.
And on a small note this dishwasher is not the silent type, yet nothing we can't handle.
Danby, this is great product for people with limited space and small sinks, and busy lives.


UPDATE- BUYER BEWARE THIS COMPANY IS A SCAM! THEY REFUSE TO HONOR THEIR WARRANTY! My washer broke and was still covered under warranty (the company even admited this) and two months later I am still waiting for someone to come and actually fix it. They will not return my phone calls or get back to me. The first "repair technician" they tried to send to me was over 5 hours away. The second company they found that was willing to come out was a local company that they then refused to send information to for the repair guys to fix it! So my washer is still not working, and they are still refusing to return my calls. BIGGEST WASTE OF MONEY YOU COULD EVER SPEND! Also, Amazon refused to help me! So much for an A to Z customer satisfaction gurantee! They basically said "too bad for you"! Absolute crap all around! Shame on Amazon for letting this company sell anything on their site! And shame again for leaving loyal customers out in the cold to deal with such a horrible company.

 love this washer/dryer. I've had it for about a month now and it is perfect! The set up was easy, though if you are planning on hooking it up to a kitchen sink like I have you will need a Y hose from a hardware store, and wheels if you need to move it around. Both of those were very easy things to add, and it really is a wonderful product. It is pretty quiet as well, I would say probably about as loud as my hair dryer when it is installed correctly and balanced as well. If it is not balanced it will be much louder, however a few minutes with a leveler and you should be good to go. I needed help getting everything set up the first time with the wheels and connecting hoses but after that I've been fine without any help. Would absolutely recommend this machine to anyone who hates using the laundromat and is limited on space.


I was hesitant to buy something like this for years for fear it'd steam up the whole apartment.  It does generate some humidity but the forced air does as much of the work and it only raises the indoor temperature by a degree or two when the central air is running.  Setup is a breeze.  Heater unit seems to be a ceramic element and something like a large PC case fan so it's probably pretty safe but not necessarily childproof.  Things are now drying in a couple hours instead of sitting on my drying rack getting mildewed.

As both positive and negative it's pretty compact so space is limited - my Haier apartment washer is 2.3 cubic feet and when packed it ends up being two dryer loads in this thing.  Certainly makes it portable-ish for balcony or patio use.

It'd be nice to have one more hanging bar and additional racks for up top for hanging socks etc but all that is surely hackable.  I really want to try using the heater with a larger Origami closet I already own (once vents are added) and Ikea should really look into using something like this for a combination sauna/closet/clothes-dryer if the fire hazards of that brilliant an idea could be mitigated.

Note that during assembly you need to slip the cover over the bottom rods and the heater sits under it with the cone poking through.  I was expecting an open bottom or something like a solid board making it easier to replace the outer cover without taking it all apart.  Performance does seem optimized as-is though, just be prepared to sweep lint and hairs out of the bottom of the cover every once in a while.  Also remember to open the zipper after the cycle so the latent heat in the clothes can finish the drying process for you.

The other minor but very easily addressed gripe is the mechanical timer feels sturdy but the sloped knob is fiddly to grip with damp fingers - it'll probably loosen up and get easier once I've used it more than a dozen times.

This will save your life if you've gotten used to waiting 3 days for dry musty jeans in summer.


Received Genuine Whirlpool Factory Certified 3392519 Thermal Fuse. Since thermal fuses fail due to excessive heat load (versus an electrical fuse which senses excessive current), rather than simply replace the fuse, be sure to investigate and fix the cause of the failure. This specific thermal fuse typically gets too hot due to restricted air flow.  Restricted air flow is either a blockage in the ducting, or debris accumulation in the actual exhaust fan (or both).  Consequently, please don't just replace your thermal fuse without a complete system cleaning. Aside from constant fuse failures, these can be major life and property saving safety devices.

My particular dryer exhaust system is under the slab, and runs about 20 feet. Using my handy-dandy duct cleaning system and shop-vac, I proceeded to clean the in-home exhaust ventilation system. Between myself, the wife and three daughters, there is a significant amount of washing and drying taking place. Most folks do not realize the sheer volume of moisture being pumped during the drying process. Naturally, this moisture condenses along the interior surface of the exhaust ducting; then, that same wet surface area slowly but surely accumulates dryer lint, along with general dust and debris being pulled through what is basically an expensive air pump (your dryer exhaust fan). Over time, this constant coating process effectively reduces the inside diameter of the system, reducing air flow and placing a greater load on the dryer fan. In addition, extended dryer run time means higher energy bills.

20 minutes of clean time resulted in approximately a cubic foot of debris from the exhaust system alone.  Next proceed to the dryer cleaning process (after all, you already have the back cover off). This baby was full of dust, hair, spiders (I hate spiders...), etc.  Another 6 screws and the fan cover is removed (Whirlpool LER8648LW0). There I discovered toothpicks, hair pins, safety pins, small pebbles, sand, pieces of pens and pencils, along with a variety of other items that left me scratching my head. Anyway, the fuse failure forced the issue, and a couple of well spent hours resulted in a completely cleaned dryer, and exhaust duct system.

Installed my genuine Whirlpool thermal fuse, and the dryer is back up and running even more efficiently than before.

I hope this helps.


Wow, I Fixed it myself and it was Fairly Easy to do... Saved me over $300 In Repair Cost!!!

So My Frigidaire Refrigerator was about 10 years old... One day I open the Lower Refrigerator part and the Refrigerator is WARM... Hmmm Something is not right... I open the Freezer and I notice ICE on the Back Wall... Upon Inspection with a Flashlight I see the ENTIRE BACK of the FReezer is ICED UP Completely.

Thankfully Today in 2016 we have The Internet!!!! I can Learn how to do any Repair by watching a YouTube Video!!!

So I go to YouTube and find several videos explaining how to fix this icing problem...

First I undo 2 Screws and Remove the Back of my Freezer... Sure enough the Coils are COMPLETELY FROZEN... Wow... I take a Hairdrier and MELT ALL THE ICE... Plug the Fridge back in and WOW... PERFECT.... Working like a Champ again... For about 2 days before the Freezer Iced up again.. ;(

So I do Internet Research and Find out that there are ONLY 2 Real Reasons the Freezer Coils Ice Up...

1. The Defrost Thermostat has Failed....

2. The Defrost Timer has Failed...

I undid 4 screws and Took a look at the defrost timer and Saw parts MOVING inside of it's Clear Housing!!! (Thank You to however designed the Frigidaire Defrost Timer for making it CLEAR so I can SEE the Moving Parts.

So It's Probably NOT the Timer...

That means It must be the Defrost Thermostat... I order this part HERE on Amazon for a Whopping... $12.51 with Prime FREE SHIPPING!!!!! What a Deal!!

The Part arrives and after watching a YouTube Video on How to Cut the Wires and Install this Baby I proceed to FIX MY OWN REFRIGERATOR!!!!

I Pulled it off... Plugged it back in and PRESTO!!!!!!!!!! BRAND NEW FRIDGE AGAIN WORKING LIKE A CHAMP!!!!

Fixed for $12.51!!! I hear the REPAIR COST for this Repair is Upwards of $300-$400!!!!!

Trust me YOU CAN DO THIS... Go to YouTube and Look Up Fridge Defrost Thermostat Replacement!!!!


We purchased this unit and were pretty happy with it overall, it was competitively priced. However, it broke 2 months out of warranty. That's when I found out how terrible LG customer support is. When you email them, you cannot follow your thread, but have to start all over again each time. The phone people cannot help much, and when I asked to speak to a manager, was disconnected, and never got a call back. I did my own problem determination, using the paper guide on the back of the unit, and this indicated the board was bad - one of the most expensive items!!

Come to find out this is a common problem with many LG electric stoves! Service plan costs $400 - about the cost of the  board, so after trying to get LG to replace for free or partial, we give up as it's close to Thanksgiving and have company arriving. LG contracts with a local company, who in turn subcontracts with another company. They guy arrives and fixes it in 15 minutes ... the connector to the board was bad from the factory (his assessment), he snips wire and puts on a new connector. So I just paid $400 for a .10 part!! Technician says LG have a lot of board problems.

We tried to get LG to compensate us, but customer support refers us to warranty, who refer us back to customer support. After about ten phone calls I gave up - maybe that was their intent all along. LG used to be a good brand, but based on this product, and my interactions with them, we could not recommend any LG brand.

Update 4/2018 - broke again w F9 error, this time a main wire into the connector block (where main power comes into unit) melted and broke off! Looks like it got hot enough to melt some plastic - see photos!  LG should recall these ranges! I'm concerned it could catch fire! Shouldn't there be a fuse that should protect this from occurring?


So... there's some good and bad with this device. I will end up returning it because of the bad, but it still may be for some people. Over all, however, I would recommend looking for a different product.

The good: I love the size. It's small and compact, perfect to lay down in a humidor corner (actually fit perfectly above some of my sticks and the box). Temperature is also accurate to 1 degree. Large numbers are easy to read. There is no back light, but since I do not check it in the dark this is also not an issue. Build seems decent, should hold up over time if used for what it is made for.

The bad: The hygrometer is off, way off. They say it will be within +-5 % of indoor humidity (which is common) but this is not even close. Using a Boveda calibration packet (sets an airtight container to a perfect humidity within .5 of what the bag says it will) and also placing another calibrated hygrometer in the same container I left it over night. After 24 hours I checked, my calibrated hygrometer read 74% (one off), this one read a shocking 60.8, so over 14% off. The next 24 hours my calibrated hygrometer would move between 74/75, this one ranged from 61 and at one point momentarily reached 63. This is considerably greater than what the box says.

It gets worse. Because it fluctuates even at a constant humidity, you can not just subtract a certain amount to get the correct amount (for example, if it read 70 for what should be 75, I could always subtract 5 and have an accurate reading). There is also no calibration option on this device.

Overall: It gets two stars because it will tell you the temperature. For the price, however, you can find a cheaper thermometer. It WILL NOT accurately assess humidity in a controlled setting, so if you need it for a humidor (like me) or something that also requires accurate readings (musical equipment, I hear hatching eggs is also like this?) you are better off spending another $5 to get something you can at least calibrate. If you're just monitoring a room in your house for fun it may be worth it, as you don't have much to lose.


Ok.  The good and not so good:

Good:
Good price to performance - the fan is strong enough for me and it looks better then the price would lead you to believe.

Install - I had a somewhat difficult install because I had to make a new outlet, but in general this is an easy install.  If you have an existing power source, this thing can probably be installed in under an hour.  The mounting bracket and bracket for the exhaust are super easy to mount, and the hood mounts very easily to them.

Quality - a little on the light side, but I like that because it makes it easier to mount.. some may think it's a little on the flimsy side.  I think it seems ok.

Bad:

beeping - the hood beeps loudly whenever you press a button,

weirdness - the power button doesn't turn it on - it just turns it off.  You press the light button or one of the fan speed buttons to turn it on.. I thought this was kinda weird.

The vent cover - there are 2 sections to the vent cover  (that covers the actual vent).  It connects to the hood at the bottom and the top, not in the middle.  This doesn't look great as it can bulge a bit at the middle - it also doesn't connect to the wall other than the aforementioned points so there is a bit of a gap between the vent and the wall.

power - this is more my mistake, so a word of caution to others.  I installed my new outlet centered, about 8 inches above the hood.  This is not a great position.  If you want to use the ducting, the plug will extend too much out and hit the ducting.  You can bend the ducting inward to accommodate - I just went without the ducting as I'm not venting externally - so I think the stainless steel enclosure with the filters will do what I need..  Alternatively, you can just cut the plug off and connect the wire in the wall and avoid the problem with the plug sticking out.  I might do that in the future.

So basically, this is a really good range hood for the price.  I'm happy with how it looks and functions.  I do wish there was a way to disable the beeping, but otherwise it's quite good.


This is a must have for every garage. I had a extra fridge in the garage that was just being used to store a stock pile of sodas. I felt it was time to start building a man cave, so the first order of business was to get a keg in there. I order this from amazon for about 150 bucks. I got it on Monday rather than the Friday that I had planed for. So the keg tapping party had to be put on hold till Monday. Getting c02 was a little harder than I thought; I couldn't find any where around here that was open that did c02, finally I just went down to my bosses bar and asked him for one. He was cool enough to provide me with a free keg and a c02 charge.

Installation was easy just a hold in the fridge, for this you have to have the right drill bit or you'll make a big mess. We went down to Ace hardware and picked up a 1 7/8 bit. Measured, marked and drilled. We magically managed to leave enough room for the tap handle to freely go under the freezer door when opened. This could of been a big problem. So remember to check the height of your tap and handle to make sure the freeze door clears. We stored cold glasses in the freezer so it was going to be opened and closed from time to time.

At first the beer was coming out with a lot of head. Then we found out that the regulator works backwards, so we were putting 60lbs into the keg at first. The lines held up and there was no leak. After figuring out how it works we set the pressure to 12 psi, still to much head. We called our bar up and asked them for the pressure and they told us 10. After that the beer was coming out pretty good.

Here is one thing to note, the first beer is going to have the most head, this is because the tap has to be cooled. The next beer you pour is done right afterwards is going to be amazing. You want to get a thermometer and keep your keg around 36-42 degrees F.

Here is a YouTube video of our keg before we figured out the pressure thing.
/watch?v=nQyrpAnmu18


I wish I'd seen these comments before I too - got cheated on the (NON) PERFORMANCE of this appliance. I had an old Thermador really superior downdraft vent at the time - that worked perfectly for 26 years. It raised to 12" it had an EMPTY space between the top cap and front plates (not the stuppid little holes ) that perfectly accommodated the suction of smoke, smells and steam. I could not find anybody to dismantle it so that I can clean the bottom part of the unit (the inaccessible place where the vent detracted downward) which so many years later accumulated fat and was a fire hazard. I (WRONGLY) assumed that Thermador new downdrafts were even better. But no, this is the biggest piece of trash! It takes no smells or smoke or steam away. It makes such noise that you would think you are working next to the airplane engine. I also say SHAME ON YOU Thermador! Next time you make a new design of downdraft vent - get people that ACTUALLY COOK to help you with the design.
Another shameful thing Thermador does is that they sell you EXTERNAL BLOWER type of downdraft but force you to buy an extra piece at $150.00 in order to have that vent connected to the pipe taking smells to the external blower. Without it, no installation is possible. And if your sales person forgets to order that one extra piece AND YOU HAVE NO IDEA that you are missing a piece - then you get the blower, you get your cook top - you get a special installation crew - and then they discover you are missing a piece. No installation that day BUT you are charged for empty trip of the installation crew just the same. WHY ON EARTH IS THAT PIECE NOT A PART OF EXTERNAL DOWNDRAFT VENT????? Why? Because the big, classy Thermador wants to get more money on top of incredibly expensive and useless downdraft vent! Digusting!!!!


Updated November 2015
Another 6 month cycle of emptying morning and night; continues to work flawlessly.  Defrost every two months and it simply churns out ice. Very pleased with the machine.

Updated October 2014

This is the second spring/summer where the unit has run for ~6 months / 24x7 as we keep the ice bucket emptied.  To date, the unit simply churns out ice and we are very satisfied with the purchase.

July 2013

This small profile, quiet machine has been in my utility room running 24x7 now for almost 30 days.  It easily fills it's ice bucket full twice in 24 hours with nice size crescent sized cubes.  The unit is meeting all my expectations.

In my utility room, I have a washer, dryer, large side/side fridge, large wine cellar and this ice maker.  The icemaker and wine cellar are front venting and do exhaust warm air. Don't be surprised by the temp in a small room going up a degree or so when this unit is installed.

The only unknown today is how reliable the little guy will be over the next few months / years.  I did purchase the Amazon/Assurant 3 Year / 360 Plan as I never buy appliance maintenance so this type of policy is a first for me.  I'll update as time goes on.

I installed this unit myself and used professional grade water hose, brass connectors and attached an inline water filter.  The water we have here in the DFW area has high mineral content so I'm trying to take as much of that sediment out as possible.  The installation is simple and easy; just go to your local hardware (Lowes/Home Depot/TruValue) and buy the appropriate hose/connectors for an ice maker installation.  Use Teflon tape or plumbers putty and snug up the connectors.  No leaks, now or in the future!

As always, Amazon service was excellent and the unit was shipped by CompactAppliance.  The unit arrived ontime and in good condition.  Compact Appliance had double boxed the unit to assure safe delivery, a very nice touch.


We added the Whirlpool washer/dryer package when we bought our house in September 2011 and by the time December 2012 rolled around the 4950xw stopped working.  Just before it stopped working, in the middle of a wash cycle, it started making odd sounds like grinding gears and slipping belts.  Luckily the builder and Whirlpool gave us a two year warranty so we emailed and we waited.  Whirlpool contacted us first and instructed us to unplug the machine for about two minutes because it might just need to be reset and the operator also asked if we tried other troubleshooting.  It was only after being on the phone with Whirlpool for fifteen minutes that the operator made the service request when the blinking lid locked light did not reset.  A&E Factory Service contacted us and we again had to explain the problem and what was done to try to troubleshoot the problem.  The service technician came and upon examination of the washer he concluded the nut at the bottom of the machine that keeps the pulley in place was loose.  He also noted the belt had rubbed on the plastic shield which was the source of the slipping belt sounds.  So, he replaced the belt, tightened the nut and says he applied some Loctite on the nut to prevent this from happening again.

Long story a little shorter, the sounds are back, the loads are taking longer and we're thinking about hauling this POC to the local dump and buy a new washer with an agitator and it won't be a Whirlpool!  While we decide we're going to email Whirlpool and set-up a service call because we have until Sep 2013 before the extended warranty expires.  From our experience with this machine if the loads are taking a long time to finish and it starts making grinding or squealing noises you might want to check the nut underneath the washing machine for tightness.  The pulley it keeps in place has gears that mesh with the gearcase so if the nut is loose the pulley isn't meshing with gearcase and the washer will not work correctly.  When it was working correctly for the past two months it seemed like a decent washer but now that we're having the same problem again, we're ready to dump it for something else.  Hope this review is helpful.


I am revising my previous review on this one. I purchased this 2/16/2017 and am only now realizing the full benefit it affords. Originally, I thought that this unit did not live up to expectations but after giving up on it I decided to give it another try. I'm glad I did.

You have to come up with a way to streamline the process using this machine.

Important factors to consider

Where will you put it?
How will you fill it?
How will you drain it?
Where will hang clothes to dry after spin?

I keep mine in my bathtub and fill it from the tub's spout. It drains down the tub's drain.
I have a drying rack that can be used indoors or out.

Don't overfill the dryer. Put the heavier items on the bottom of the spinner.

After draining water, clothes are still soapy. I keep unit set to "drain" and add more water to "rinse". I also will run clothes under tub's spout sometimes (if needed) to further rinse.

Don't put delicate items in here. No knit sweaters etc.! Best for socks, underwear, etc. Caution putting items you can't live without or spent a fortune on in here.

Better to do small loads frequently than big loads occasionally.

It took me a while to figure out the nuances of the machine and to come up with a way to make it effective for me. Once I put a system in place and realized the machine's limits/benefits I found it to be much more helpful.

Old review:

Hard to rinse soap out of clothes. Have to run several times with just water to try to remove soap. Still seems like soap still present in clothes. Spinner very aggressive. Stretches clothing out. Not good for anything delicate. Gave up. Back to laundromat. By the time you do several loads and hang up to dry laundromat quicker. Wanted to love but is just bleh.


Get ready to start washing dishes!  Except you will be doing it by hand.  Yes, we purchased one of these machines and it worked perfectly for all of 5 days.  Then an error code (LE) meaning water leak detected.  Ah, the fun begins.  Samsung customer rep asks me if I checked the water valve.  I reminded her the manual said to turn the circuit breaker off and call tech support.  Anyway, about 5 days later a service rep shows up who knows nothing about the machine.  But I did see the water valve.  You have to pull it out, dismantle a metal sheet and see something that you haven't a clue why you would want to look at it.  Folks, this is a bad machine and you will probably regret it immensely if you  buy it.  It might work for a day or a week or even a year, but when it stops working, you are out of luck.  Fortunately we are taking this one back to the store and getting something that routinely works.  But for those of you that can't help yourself, here are some answers to some questions you might have?

Q: Does it have a heated drying system?  A: Not like we're used to.  You can sanitize and dry which gets the water up to 160 degrees and this works well for drying.

Q:  Is it quiet? A:  Very quiet, that is until the repairman comes who doesn't know anything about the machine, then it will be a lot noisier except it still probably wont' work (go through a full cycle) so the noise won't last too long.

Q:  Does it clean well? A: If you own this dishwasher, your dishes will probably be very clean because you'll be doing them by hand and since it has probably been a long time since you have done that, you won't mind spending the extra hours doing it while you are waiting for your machine to get fixed.

Don't buy it, folks.  Seriously.  Don't buy it.  Get something that works.


So only 3 days in and we are in love with this machine. Before we purchased this washer we did alot of research and read tons of reviews. We were hesitant on buying this due to the amount of people saying it left there clothing damp or just plain wet. During our research we had stumbled upon people saying if our drain pipe was at the floor setting worked great. So before purchasing we added a new drain coming 2 inches you've the floor in the center of our cubby space for our washer. We also poured 3 1/2 inches of concrete to help level and support this unit. So far all clothing are coming out completely dry on just the normal settings, no extra spun out high spin, no extra dryer settings such as more dry, we do stay slightly below the max fill line that's indicated on the drum. Just the normal settings across the board. The real test came with washing and drying out super thick and heavy duty queen sized comforter. Again all settings on normal, came out clean and dry. We have two kids plus a child that's not ours living with my wife and I. And for these last 3 days this unit has had absolutely no problems with our demands. Total wash and dry times are roughly 2 1/2 hours long. The fact that we can throw in a load and folks then and put our clothing away as soon as the cycle is done is just amazing. Also the clothing is coming out alot cleaner than with the Frigidaire gallery series stand alone units we previously owned. Quality is fantastic, even down to the door hinge. Home is heavy duty steel. All in all we love this unit and would purchase again. Works like a dream with the way we set up the area where it sits, don't know how it works with the drain that was in the wall 2 1\2 feet off the ground. It is important to note that spreading like clothing definitely helps with the drying process, shirts separate from jeans, towels separate and so on........ But yea so far absolutely dry clothing, nice and clean.. No complaints.. The only issue we have that we knew about is the point build up on rubber gasket and door. All we do is write it down with a damp paper towel before pulling out clothing. I really hope this reviews helps some one, just cause we almost passed this unit up based on the amount of iffy or bad reviews


F.Y.I. Having had a problem with the door lock on my washer, I thought I'd post the fix here.

*** NOTES ***
A. When assembled, there is a "white plastic tab" at the bottom of the door latch assembly. This is evidently/presumably to get the door open if it is in the "locked"/door shut position. This did not apply/work as a fix for mine, since the was in the open position, so I am guessing at this. Give it a try if your door will not come open.
B. The Model & Serial numbers are on a decal BEHIND the door. Bad news if you can't get it open, huh? College graduate decided where to put it. D-U-H! Record it someplace else for future reference.

On to the "FIX"!

FIRST of all, It's probably NOT broken/bad.

My locking mechanism "tripped" shut WITH THE DOOR OPEN (unknown how it happened). This made the task a little bit easier to fix, door was open. No "repair/replacement" is needed.

1. Unplug washer from outlet.
2. Remove the two (2) screws in the rear/top corners from the top cover. Pull toward the rear and up to remove it. No need to even move the washer!
3. Remove the two (2) screws from the front panel securing the door latch (behind the door).
4. Remove the one (1) screw from the front panel securing the safety switch (behind the door).
5. Disconnect the three (3) wiring disconnects from the switch.
6. Remove entire assembly.
7. CAREFULLY remove the black cover from the white body, so you do not positionally disturb anything inside.
8. There is a metal "teter-totter" mechanism on the opposite end from the solenoid. To "trip" the lock back to the OPEN position, so the door can be closed: Push down on the furtherest end of the "teter-totter" mechanism from the solenoid. The lock will snap open. FIXED !
9. I re-greased it where there was evidence of grease applied at the factory
10. Re-assemble.

Hope this helps. Good Luck
Any ???, dwright@insight.rr.com


My husband does not enjoy it when I emasculate him, but sometimes I have no choice. Replacing the agitator dogs in the washer is one of those times. I'd noticed the washer wasn't cleaning as well, and I noticed the agitator wasn't moving the clothes around as well, put 2 and 2 together which sadly took longer than it should have, and I realized there was an agitator issue. I went to Google to research this and sure enough already on youtube were atleast 100 videos of men (always men for some reason) explaining what to look for when your washer isn't agitating correctly and how to fix it. After watching a few I realized not all washers are the same, one video showed how the washer has to be turned on it's back and a motor removed just to fix this issue, but perhaps those are fancy high priced rich people washers. I own a used top load washer like most poor people who proclaim they will refuse to buy a washer that requires a technician to install and can wash 3 king sized comforters. I then decided to narrow my search to my specific washer model which must be very common because I found a video that showed my model and how to fix it. It looked so easy, the video had step by step instructions, I had a screw driver, this was going to be easy as cake. Then it came to finding the $5 part, the agitator dogs which I will call "dawgs" it just sounds better that way. Don't go to Lowe's or Home Depot, they sell the washers that use the dawgs, but they don't actually sell the parts that they know will break eventually and are easy peasey to replace, nope. You may be able to find them at a super hardware store, they kind that employs really old men who know how to fix everything, but the one near me burned to the ground and has yet to reopen. So I went to Amazon and found exactly what I needed. While my husband played a video game I went out in the garage to the washer and removed the broken dawgs and replaced them with the new ones, it took less than 10  minutes. Now my husband's underwear gets clean.


Let me start of with "WOW"!  Our family of 5 - (Three of us full time and two more on weekends) has been apartment living without a dishwasher now for 5 years.  We do not have cupboard room in our current apartment for a built-in unit.  About 4 years ago, we considered a portable dishwasher on wheels but determined that we really didn't have the space for the large wheel-a-round.

While looking for a portable clothes washer, I stumbled onto Countertop Dishwashers.  My husband and I did a lot of research before we decided on the SPT brand.  The unit arrived a few days ago and I am so AMAZED.  I've put the washer through every test I can think of from delicate barware to saucepans and it has washed everything perfectly.  We are using the Cascade Platinum gel pacs and have found they work very well.

We are very conscious about electricity usage and I was unsure what this would cost.  I plugged it into our "Kill-A-Watt" usage meter to track actual use.  Our Edison rate is .25 per Kwh.

Our Per Load Power Cost
Heavy -  $0.10
Normal - $0.09
Light - $0.07
Glass - $0.07
Speed - $0.06
Soak - $0.01

The manufacturer states the water usage is:

Heavy -  3.83 gal
Normal - 3.17 gal
Light - 3.17 gal
Glass - 2.56 gal
Speed - 3.17 gal
Soak -  .66 gal

Again - I have to say I'm AMAZED at this dishwasher.  Not only does it do a wonderful job, it is going to save me money because the electricity costs are low and the water usage considerably less than hand washing and rinsing.

Update:  I have found that with our family of four kids,  Our cost per month is calculated at $5.05 for the dishwasher.


I bought this device to clean the vent duct from our clothes dryer, which had not been cleaned since its installation several years ago. My ductwork is 16 feet long and 4 inches diameter with several bends. It's stiff aluminum with accordion corner pieces, all held together with aluminum duct tape. The duct cleaning system has no breakable plastic parts - only the reel cover and crank handle are plastic, and those are not likely to break. I have written a complete report on my website (A Journey through the Kingdom of Lint,[...]/) but here are a few key points: (1) I first cleaned with a smaller brush, then finished with a larger brush; (2) if you crank as you push the brush in, the cable will kink - it's better to push it in, then crank as you pull it back out, to scrub lint from the walls; (3) I was able to push the brush past the 45 degree bends but not a 90 degree bend - I wound up removing the tape at the 90 degree corner and cleaning the parts on either side separately; (4) I had to buy a roll of aluminum duct tape (required by code - it's fireproof) from the hardware store to re-assemble the ducting - it was not expensive; (5) there is no point in using a power drill to spin the brush - you have more control turning it manually; (6) it's helpful to have another person's hands at some points - the reel housing is light weight and wants to walk around while you are trying to maneuver the brush and the cable; (7) I got an IMMENSE amount of lint out of the duct, really surprising since there was no evident blockage and since we clean the lint filter after every use; (8) this is a sturdy, well designed product with a box that holds it well between uses and with all necessary tools provided.
I hope this review helps your own do-it-yourself project!


We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.


I am very impressed with this product. If your dryer airflow needs a boost, this is for you. Install it and forget about it.

My exhaust ducting is about 24' with several 90 degree turns, making it effectively almost 50'. My poor dryer didn't stand a chance and would keep tripping the over-temperature thermostat. I tried brushing out the entire duct with no luck. Adding this booster makes my dryer complete a cycle in half the time with clothes that are actually dry!

I decided to mount this upside-down at a slight angle, removing the feet. This allowed me to connect the output directly into the wall port and aim the input toward my dryer. I used a 90 degree sheet metal elbow and a flexible aluminum duct to connect the dryer to the booster. Since the booster was not quite perpendicular to the floor, I removed the pressure sensor box and mounted it to the wall. The pressure sensor hose just sits in the high pressure input of the pressure sensor box and was looser than I wanted. I put some gas thread tape on it to get it to be a little snugger.

I had terrific responses from my pre-purchase e-mail query and my during-installation phone call. The owner is friendly and sharp.

One possible design improvement would be to have the AC input box sit on the side so that installations like mine would be able to have the dryer sit back a couple more inches.

After installation and adjusting the pressure sensitivity, the booster comes on whenever the dryer is on and shuts off right when the dryer does. It is louder than without it, but not annoyingly so. It is enough to know when it is on or off. I ran my dryer without heat and used my duct brush to remove the lint that was built up. It "snowed" during much of the process.

In addition to drying clothes better and faster, I think this product will pay for itself by reducing wear on my dryer. I highly recommend it if your exhaust duct is more than 10' or so.


We purchased Bosh SHX98M09UC a little over a year ago.  Advantages: it is indeed extremely quiet. Disadvantages: everything else, starting with the quality of its main job. In our view, dishwashers are made to wash dishes. Almost by definition, the dishes we put in are dirty. When we take them out and they are still dirty, something is very wrong. When we called the technician the first time, he found a piece of a bone in the engine. Shouldn't the filter block any pieces of food large enough to damage the engine? The second time there was no damage, just the nozzles got clogged with food particles. He advised us to rinse thoroughly all the dishes before putting them in. We do, and so far the dishwasher still works, even if the results are mediocre. But what good is the dishwasher if we have to wash the dishes manually before putting them in?
The dishwasher is praised by Consumer Reports for its water conservation. As the salesman explained to us, it uses less water because it alternates between upper and lower racks. Which may explain why the wash times are so long. I doubt however, if we do conserve any water overall when the dish pre-rinsing is included. And less water means it gets dirtier, which often leave smudges on the dishes. Poor drying was mentioned elsewhere, but at least it does not "bake" the smudges in. It may require another manual rinsing though. I think we would be much better off - also from ecological point of view - if the dishwasher uses more water and does the job right.
There is also a number of other little irritating glitches. Touch controls are inconveniently located and not very reliable. Racks are too tightly spaced for bowls. Rack fasteners are small plastic pieces that can easily fall out and get lost (beware if you have small children!). I would forget these issue if the dishes are washed right. But they are not!


HOW MANY
You probably need more than you think.  My dishwaster took about 120 tine caps.

WHAT FOR
The most important reason to use the tine caps is to protect your dishes from scratches.  Sure, they also protect the tines from rust--but the ends of the tines are not where the important rust happens.

INSTALLING
> If you don't use glue, then soaking the caps in hot water makes it easier.
> Even better, apply a little Household Goop Amazing Goop All-Purpose Household Goop, 3.7-Ounce Tube #130012 to the tip of the tine, then slide the cap on---the fresh goop acts a lubricant and makes the caps easier to install; when it hardens, it holds the tips securely in place.

GLUEING THEM ON
If you don't glue them in place when you install them, the first several times you run the dishwasher, you'll find one or two loose caps on the filter screen.  Check to see if any are half-off, if so push them back down. After about a week, they will tighten up on their own.

OTHER RUST PREVENTION
Examine your dishwasher basket frequently for signs of rust.  Apply dabs of Household Goop on the smallest rust spots as soon as you see them.

CAUTION
There is a product called "Uber GOOP" which is optionally sold in kits with rack-tines.  I've purchased it (but not used it), and as far as I can tell, it's just enamel paint in a small container---it probably works fairly well if are very fastidious at getting at the very first signs of rust and/or prepare the surface  well---but I don't think that it is as effective as Household Goop, because a thin layer of paint it would not be as effective as a thick layer of cushioning glue in resisting the impact or rubbing of plates rattling around.

> Click on Stoney just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.


Our 23 year old Kenmore gas dryer stopped working three days ago.  The dryer was made by Whirlpool.

Unplug the dryer first before testing the components...

I checked the fuse in the back after removing the back panel.  That was fine.  I pulled off the dryer bottom panel and removed the one screw holding the Flame Sensor.  I removed the Flame Sensor and tested the continuity with a multimeter.  No reading.  That indicated the Flame Sensor was shot as it should show a reading when cold.

You can test the dryer while the Flame Sensor is removed.  First separate the two flame sensor wires a few inches.  Plug the dryer back in and close the door.  If you press the start button, nothing will happen with the removed Flame Sensor.  Touch the two wires that go to the flame sensor together.  The ignitor will glow red hot within seconds.  When it is red, remove the wires a few inches from each other.  The gas will turn on and the dryer will heat like it works.  DON'T RUN THE DRYER LIKE THIS.  It's not safe to have two exposed wires in an appliance that vibrates.  This is just to check it to see if it the ignitor is ok. the gas turns on and ignites in the burner tube.  Basically we are confirming all the other parts are aok.  Shut the dryer off and unplug it until you replace the flame sensor.

I got this part in two days with Amazon prime and it took 5 minutes to replace.  My dryer is good as new for $15.

Fix old gas dryers...don't get rid of them because you are dazzled by electronic read outs or anti-wrinkle features.  The new dryers with more elaborate electronics/circuit boards all fail in 1/2 the time.  My Jenn-aire range that is 15 years old I have replaced the clock 2x and the main circuit board/controller due to leaking capacitors, etc.  Old gas dryers are simple and built to last.  A time dial, start button, and a buzzer when it's done.  Not many parts to break down!

UPDATE: February 2016-  Our gas dryer is now over 25 years old and has worked perfectly since I replaced the Flame Sensor.


I am not one to write reviews, but seeing as I read them when researching products, I felt strongly enough about this vent to write one! We completely remodeled our kitchen about 6 months ago, and were shocked to see the ridiculous price tags on hood vents, which are basically just a small electric fan. Not to mention the fact that the big box stores didn't even carry hood vents that would provide enough air flow to remove odors and moisture from your kitchen on even the highest setting! I had my heart set on a nice wall mounted stainless vent with chimney, but was not about to pay over $1000 for something that barely vented. I am an avid cook and purchased a pretty high powered gas range, and needed something to really move air/moisture/heat out of our kitchen. Read the reviews on this one and thought for the money it was worth a shot. Probably one of my favorite appliances in the kitchen besides the new gas range! This vent looks really great, but better yet, will absolutely remove all the cooking odors and moisture out! I loved one review I read about this hood vent "sucking the hat off your head if you walked by"! It is true! I rarely use any setting other than low-even when boiling huge pots of water with tons of steam! Love that the baffles are removed easily and dishwasher safe. The lights get a bit hotter than I would like, but they light up the back of my stove really nicely for cooking. Some reviewers complained about lighting, but if you do your homework and are remodeling, the key to any kitchen is adding tons of lighting. A hood vent is not designed to light up your kitchen, but this one is perfect for lighting up the back of our stove as that area can be shadowy even with well placed overhead lighting. I would recommend ths vent highly to anyone who does lots of cooking, and wants a great product that will protect their home by actually removing moisture and odors. I do believe you can use this as a recirculating fan, but if you know anything about home building or maintenance, you would never install a recirculating vent that only moves the odors and moisture around your kitchen! Love this product! Looks great, moves tons of air. Didn't really come with instructions, but if you're somewhat handy, you'll figure it out quickly!


Purchased this item to fix my late 90's Maytag Neptune MAH3000AWW washer.

The problem I was having was the motor after 15 years had begun to "Growl" and would not spin the washer tub. I guess from reading on the internet it is a miracle that the original motor and control board lasted as long as they did as there apparently were design issues with one or both.

This installation was straight forward and easy. I am not the Maytag repairman but I am handy with tools when I need to be. I had this removal and installation done in under an hour. Though I have had this machine apart a couple of times for replacing tub bearings, the pump and I also replaced preemptively the wax motor, so my knowledge of how it is taken apart probably speed-ed up the process.

The instructions for the install are okay, not the best and not the worst. In my kit there is a "jumper" 2 white connectors and 2 wires (black and white) between them. Neither end was connected. The instructions say to connect the blue connector from the main harness (the one not being replaced) to the white connector on the new Control board which does not fit, but one end does fit that mysterious jumper, and the other end of that jumper does fit the control board and the picture given does try to depict that as well just not in the most clear manner.

So if you are having motor growling and the tub isn't spinning and the washer just quits with out finishing the cycle (mine would be toward the end of the cycle initially but it slowly got earlier as it worsened), take the back panel off, slide off the belt and see if your motor growls (try and run it through a cycle), it should not. If you spin the motor by hand there shouldn't be any rattle to the motor, if it does this will fix the problem.

It is common for the motor to cause the control board to burn out as well (mine did not). But this is a new motor design and it comes with a new control board for that new design. So you replace them as a set.

Hope this helps you out!


I replaced a 1970's fan that just blew in my face with this unit, and ducted it outside.  Installation was mostly easy if you're replacing a similar size unit and handy with basic tools.

Lights are fantastic. I used 50w PAR20 halogens I think, and while they are hot, the 2 light setting is enough, and 3 is like sunshine (used when I use the stovetop for a prep area).  When they burn out, I plan to replace with LEDs at about $20 a pop (halogens were $4-5 each).  I've had these halogens in for 2 years, using them daily almost, and they're still kicking.

Build quality is good.  Easy to clean.  First speed is unnoticable, noise wise. 2nd speed you can hear it if you don't have anything else going on in the kitchen.. 3rd speed is noticeably loud - like I wouldnt leave it on while watching our small TV in the kitchen.
That said, I use the 3rd speed to clear out smoke, cooking bacon, and stiryfry'in.  That's it.  #2 speed is plenty for a has range and most uses.

Only complaint that I barely think is a complaint is the automatic turn-on to high speed fan when it detects high temperature.  Some folks seem to find this annoying and think it comes on way too much, I've only ever, ever, ever, had it come on when I forgot about something on the range and it started smoking and got hot, or I leave a burner on without a pot atop it. The 4 or 5 times this has happened in the last 2 years I am happy it came on - because it reminded me to go turn something off.  Maybe the sensor is quirky for some folks or mine is quirky - but I can't imagine cooking as much as I do at super hot gas temps (woks, heating salt block, etc) I wouldnt have been annoyed if it was really too eager.


In a moment urgency I needed a frig that would fit in the 5th wheel trailer and would be of good looks and lasting quality within hours of the frig that went out. The frig that went out ran on electricity and ammonia or propane gas which is the standard for motorhomes and trailers. They are super expensive for their size and short on endurance. I wanted to replace it with a good old fashion electric frig. To even repair the broken frig it have cost close to a $1,000 which had a ammonia leak causing me to have to move my tenant out immediately and leaving me the task of cutting up the frig to even get it out of the trailer door. (they built the trailer around the frig...??)
I looked at a lot of apartment size frigs' which would have cost about $1,500 and weren't narrow enough to fit through the door or fit in the existing space.
I went to Amazon and saw this frig for $379.00 on sale from $699.00. Dimensions were exactly the right size
and had free shipping.
Ordered it right away.
It showed up 3 days ahead of schedule! Before I even unpacked I knew I had a good quality product...How? This thing was packaged to withstand being dropped from an aircraft. Wow, By the time I got through 2 layers of box containers and 2 layers of foam and plastic protection I finally got to see what I purchased. Any company that would spend this much money and time on a  shipping container and other protection for the product must be proud of what they built.
The frig looked great, modern looking and inside had a lot more space than I ever imagined.
Fit through the door, a truly memorable moment and then installed it, plugged it in and was up to operating temperature in about an half hour.
Time will tell on operating quality but I suspect I got a pretty good product.
And as always Amazon was top notch in the ease of ordering, the shipping and and followup on the order.
The tenant was really pleased on the looks and room inside the frig also. He was amazed how fast I got the frig also, I didn't tell them how much I paid. The packing container and shipping were worth the entire purchase but those 2 things were FREE!
Thanks for being here Amazon,


I will never...I repeat, NEVER buy any LG appliance again. The top-loading HE washer I bought 2 years ago (Model WT4870C) has been nothing but a disappointment.  To call it a piece of junk would be an insult to junk.  And LG customer service is terrible!  Don't think you will get any sympathy or help from the company. They've got your money, and that's all they care about.  Apparently, quality means nothing to them.  First of all, the area around the bleach dispenser rusted.  Do you want rust on your clothes? Me either.  That's why I called customer service.  Instead of agreement that rust in a washing machine is not acceptable, I was told, "If liquid gets on the metal, it can rust."  Really? Then why does it say to put liquid bleach there (in the dispenser!) if no liquid is supposed to touch it? And besides, in their opinion, the rust "is a cosmetic issue."  When I complained that rust can ruin clothes, they told me that I could send them my damaged clothes, and they would review them, and "possibly" issue some compensation FOR THE CLOTHES!  Now, only 2 years in to owning this washer, it breaks!  I cannot use it at all!  It was running when suddenly a terrible noise was heard coming from it (not the normal terrible noises it usually makes), and the tub could not stop.  Natural frictional force caused it to finally come to a stop. But now it cannot spin at all.  Even though the washer displays proudly on the front a "10-year warranty," that only covers the motor.  And guess what:  You have to pay for a technician to come out to determine whether it is the motor or not.  So you are out a service charge no matter what!  (Oh, and even if it is the motor, you still have to pay labor charges out of pocket.)


I purchased Speed Queen model AWN542s and it was installed today. I've been doing loads and loads of laundry all day. I am so impressed with this machine. I've owned a lot of washers by various companies over the years but this washer in just 1 day of operation, shines in it's performance and I'm not easily won over by things.

The stainless steel tub is beautiful and there's lots of room to hold heavy quilts which I own and wash every now and then. The washer itself looks small from the outside but when you look inside...the tub is large.

I love the no-nonsense knobs on top and how Speed Queen has been designed and constructed (in America!)past owners say they last aprox 20+ years*. This machine does NOT use electronic motherboards which have been failing in numbers with other brands. The warranty is 5 years motor,etc. and then 10 years on transmission...which seems rare today. Most of the brands I researched had 1 yr warranties.

There is a lot of info on the specs, mechanics,etc. on Speed Queen's official website for anyone wanting to research a new washer or dryer.
*
[...]

Testimonials of Speed Queen appliances are significantly positive all over the web and even here on Amazon.

I have used all cycles today putting them thru the paces and all have operated beautifully. The 710 rpm's wrings everything out so well...the drying time is shorter. I am including heavy towels, which are the hardest to get all the water out in the spin cycle. I believe that Speed Queen has the highest RPM's of all brands.

I don't think you can buy a better washer for the money. I spent aprox 5 hrs. researching all the brands, complaints, compliments, etc. and the clear choice for me, came down to Speed Queen. It's the Mercedes of washers but priced reasonably imo thanks to the built-to-last mission of Speed Queen.

I'm happy to find a product that finally lives up to it's reputation and is worth every penny which is rare today with the; paltry 1 yr warranties,products too expensive to repair so, throw-it-away society.


1 year and still going strong. Love having beer on tap and this unit fit right behind my bar. Friends love it too. If you get 1/6 or 1/4 kegs (this unit takes up to 1/2 keg) you still have room for mixers and sodas as well. So far I've only had to have my CO2 tank refilled once, and that was probably because I inadvertently had the output turned too high at first. I get a new 1/6 keg about once every couple months (of course this depends on your drinking habits). Keeps things cold but does require the occasional defrost depending on how cold you keep it.

On side note and per the manufacturer directions, you need to let this sit for a couple day before plugging it in and using it. If its been put on it;s side at anytime during shipping or storage (which is a very good chance it has) it needs to sit an allow the compressor oil to drain back down into the reservoir. Failure to do so could result in your compressor prematurely burning out.

Update: Going on two years now and still going strong. I also notice a lot of people commenting of foam issues. I have figured out how get a perfect draft every time.

The trick is to only open the co2 tank valve literally like 1/4 turn, no more. Turn the PSI adjust almost all the way down, drain off excess co2 by pulling the release valve. Then draft a little beer in a glass. If the foam is too much, then wait a day or two. It should subside, and in fact not be enough to adequately draft a glass of beer (no pressure). Now start turning up the PSI adjust. Only like half a turn to start. Check your draft, turn up a little more, check again, repeat as necessary. Once you get the pressure up to start dispensing beer but with not that much head, you should be good. Give it another day (after the pressure has built up) and adjust again as necessary. I've used this method since I've had my kegerator (going on two years now) and get a perfect draft every time. Also keep in mind the type of beer also makes a difference in what pressure is needed and the kind of head you'll get.


When this ice maker first arrived, it looked great, was very quiet, and did an excellent job of making ice cubes. However, soon after, it started getting louder, and louder, and louder, and then at 5 months, it failed. Died. Well, one of the features that made me purchase this one over many other similar ones, was that it had a 1 year manufacturer warranty. I also purchased an extended warranty, for beyond that. The manufacturer warranty has a phone number to contact for warranty service. When I called the number, it was the seller's number. They said that I needed to contact the manufacturer, who is in China, and the only method is by email. So I went to the manufacturer's website and used their contact email to send them the information of the product early failure and how to get warranty service. I waited. Two weeks, still no reply. I tried to call back the distributor, but no one answered the phone, and so I emailed them asking for their help since their phone number was the number to contact on the written warranty. They replied promptly, but all they said was that I needed to email the manufacturer. So, clearly, the one year manufacturer warranty is no good if they refuse to reply. I don't know what to do, but I'm very angry with this lack of response for warranty service from both the manufacturer, Della USA, and the seller. My recommendation? DO NOT BUY THIS PRODUCT! I'm telling you this so that you won't have to get "stuck" like I did. Unfortunately, all of these ice makers are made in China, and they work great at first, but don't expect them to last. My first one did last a little over a year before it failed (different brand), but to me, I don't purchase this product to be replacing it every year! I will not buy another one. Too bad, because I really liked the convenience of this chewable ice, when it worked.


My apartment was being renovated and one of the perks was supposed to be BRAND NEW appliances! Well, they picked the absolute worst of the worst in all of them. And not even the cheapest.

The oven exhaust is in the top left burner and gets hotter than any other exhaust I've ever encountered. I've burnt my fingers and completely melted a Tupperware by simply touching this burner while the oven was at 350F. Let me be clear: the burner itself was NOT on.

The storage bin beneath the oven seems like it was made from soda-can-thickness tin. It's SO flimsy. It's not even on proper tracks, it's got 2 little plastic "guides" that don't guide anything. It's constantly coming off the "track" and it takes quite a bit of wrestling to push it back in or pull it out. And while you're wrestling with it, all your pans will fall out the back, under the oven, because the wall at the back is about half the height of the front of the drawer.

The control panel at the back (let me just say that almost all the ovens I've previously owned have had backsplash control panels, so I'm familiar) is strangely positioned. It's too close to the back burners and the lip overhangs enough that if you have a pot or pan on the back burner you're likely to either have to wedge the lid under the lip of the control panel or have the whole pot/pan slightly off the burner to accommodate the pan/pot and lid.

The controls are not intuitively lined up with what burner they control, so you have to check and double-check that you've turned on the correct burner.

There's no volume control for the oven signal. Small thing, but other models with similar set-ups have this feature. The microwave that goes with this range has almost the same control systems and it DOES have a volume control.

I guess this oven is OK if you're just occasionally heating up a frozen pizza, but for daily use it will drive you MAD.

I HATE it.


Not only is the Energy Star Qualified (equiv to CEE Tier 1), this washer is CEE Tier 3.  These standards cover both durability and efficiency so I expect a long life >15years. There are more efficient residential washing machines, that may clean better (one steam cleans), but residential washers generally don't endure heavy use for 15 years.  From all the hype about how well this machine cleans,

Lab tests "performed in an approved testing facility to the American Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM) HLW1-2006 laundry industry standard, concluded that the washer achieves superior cleaning performance, while  providing outstanding energy savings. No other commercial single-load high-efficiency machine cleans better."

I hoped everyone in my boarding house would see the difference achieving clean results that had required hot water while washing with only cold.  This is NOT the case.  I would say it cleans slightly better than our 25 year old top loader machines, using only 12.4gal of water and 0.054kWh rather than 39gal and 1.4kWh.  I have yet to run a hot wash load. Even using hot water this costs us 11/load at most, rather than 44 to 49/load with our old machine.  The biggest advantage is less wear and tear on our clothes.  The cleaning to damaging ratio is much better.

Program options: One can charge extra for supercycle, OR set separate prices for hot warm and cold.  One apparently can't choose to offer supercycle while charging more for hot wash loads according to the directions provided.

Lost socks, necklaces and such all seem to be found conveniently in the folds of the front gasket just inside the machines front door.  Get used to checking there.

Also get used to reminding people to LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN between uses so the water tight 3.2 cubic foot washing chamber can dry rather than growing smelly bacteria.  If one washes cloth soaked in solvents like gasoline, that tends to damage the rubber-like gasket of front load washing machines. There is no other reason to use a top loading machine.


If you fridge door won't close all the way or on a side-by-side freezer/fridge this is the item to buy.
Search using the words "door closer kit."
I spent a lot of time searching door cams, gaskets and about a half dozen other words until giving up and calling customer service.
The beauty of this item is that it contains 2 different styles of upper and lower door cams that in my estimation, one of them will fit every fridge made regardless of brand. I have a Whirlpoool model ED5KVEXVQ00 and they fit and the door now shuts on it's own.
Also, buying the kit is a helluva lot cheaper than buying the cams individually.
I installed it myself.
Couple of tips from my experience: lubricate the cams with dielectric grease. The cams have teeth that fit into each other and grease allows for better movement and prevents quicker deterioration.
Second: take the salad dressing and grape jelly out of the shelves of the fridge if you do, like I had to, take both doors completely off. Less weight to move and less mess to clean up when one of the shelf items falls to the tile and breaks...and it will, no matter how careful you are.

Common tools are required: flathead screw driver , 5/16 socket and ratchet & that's about it.
Another tip: while you're at it, push that fridge away from the wall. In the back, take off the 5 or 6 screws that hold the flimsy piece of cardboard (in my case) that protect the motor and fan. Take the long wand of your vacuum cleaner and vacuum all the dust/grime/pet hair that had built up on the coils, motor, fan, everything back under there. You'll be shocked how dirty and disgusting it is.
This will prevent early motor/fan failure or that horrible noise that comes from the fan/motor when the dust has accumulated for years and prevents them from operating properly (in my case).
There are plenty of YouTube videos that will walk you through the repair step by step. I'm not a handyman by any means and it took me about 45 minutes and I saved a dollar by not having to call someone out to do it.
Makes you feel like a man too, to complete a repair that before seemed way out of your league. (In my case).


We had a subzero built-in refrigerator that needed to be replaced.  The replacement 30" from subzero was quoted at over $8.5k by a local big-box appliance store, and their "less" expensive options in the 30" category from bosh, thermador, and GE Monogram were roughly $6.5k.  Exasperated at spending at least $6.5k on what is truly a tiny galley fridge, we were fortunate to find the Liebherr CS1660 at a local builders outlet Liebherr 15.5 Cu. Ft. Panel Ready Freestanding Counter Depth Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - CS1660 for $4.5k new and ended up purchasing a roughly 1 year old floor model for $2.5k.  We've now had the Liebherr for a couple of years with no problems.  Attractive stainless steel exterior and well lit interior, extremely quiet (far quieter than our subzero), easily fit into narrow / shallow space of built-in cabinetry in a galley style kitchen, and of course much cheaper than all other options.  Only minor complaint is that relative to our former subzero which had all the compressor parts on top (with usable interior space below it) the Liebherr has the compressor at the bottom in the back (with interior space extending above it) - thus, the usable interior storage space extends much higher on the Liebherr than it did on our Subzero with the top shelf in the Liebherr being difficult for a short person to reach.


There seem to be a lot of negative reviews that have strangely different complaints but one thing in common: They wanted a "PUR" filter. I wonder if this may be a purely psychological issue; those who expected a PUR filter were disappointed in what they received and looked for something wrong with it. The truth is that this is still a PUR filter. In fact, if you check out the picture of the item right here on the Amazon product page, you will see that on the right side of the box near the bottom is the PUR logo. If you "need" a PUR filter, this is it.

I've had no problems with this filter at all after using it for about 4 weeks now. I will mention that I am careful to follow the instructions and flush enough water through the filter initially. If you haven't flushed enough water then any taste issues may be due to that, so perhaps try flushing more water through. The water from my filter tastes exactly the same as it did with the previous version of this filter. I drink several glasses every day and it tastes exactly the same. No one else in my household even noticed that we used a different filter than before. We had several visitors for 4th of July weekend and since we live in the scorching hot desert, we went through at least a few gallons of water through their stay and we actually got comments about how nice and clean it tastes.

I will agree with those who complain that the price is getting outrageous. I am bothered that the price has gotten so high. Currently it is about $7 per month to use this filter, and I would definitely spend more than that buying bottled water. I'm not claiming that the price is great, just trying to be pragmatic about something that is as confusingly controversial as a water filter!

Overall I would recommend this as an "upgrade" of the previous version since it removes a significantly higher number of contaminants compared to the last version. Seeing as how there's not an option to buy the previous version, the water still tastes great, and the price is still practical compared to the alternative, purchasing this is a good choice in my opinion.


Ok so ill do my best here. Got it today, came home opened it up. So started with a load of 28 xl boxers, 8 pairs of my underwear boy short type, and 4 bras, and 3 pairs of my socks and 1 pair of mens socks. That did good and only filled half way. Wanted to make sure it worked and didn't leak. Hung that up and noticed in our apartment that it may spin water out very well will take a full day to dry inside. Then, did 2 pairs of jeans with 2 leggin pants and 2 leggin capris and the spin side takes 1 pair of jeans of mens and then took my 4 pairs of leggings fine no issues. Drain pump is awesome. Very short wish it was way longer but itll work. Plug in chord not even long enough ill go get an extension chord. Quater size detergent is plenty then for me working in a smokers home i do nurse stuff so i used a little extra softner due to smell otherwise not much is needed. Then the last load i did was 8 extra large tshirts and 4 fit perfect in spinner.  Like the machine so far. The only thing i dislike is the length of chords and tubes. Also the water inlet is fine however the hose it comes with must not fit tight and leaks water all over so i have to put the hose directly into machine which is fine.  But so far love it. I did order a dryer because i don't want clothes hanging around just don't have it yet. So i guess random things now, if you have pets hair will not come out so know that because human hair does no issue but pet hair nope my pants are covered with it. Also i noticed for me needing to get smoke smell out i use more softner you will need to drain and fill again just to do a clean rinse that can be a quick 5 min cycle. So no biggy for me. Other then that i ordered a dolly to push it around and love that idea a lot. So if things happen ill update but i don't know how to make videos that can explain the use without it being probably 30 mins long so ill try to if i can.  Well its worth it and the pump drain is awesome feature.  Just make tubes and chords longer please.


We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.


If you're looking for a 6 burner gas range that's well designed, good looking and reasonably priced, this is it!  I purchased one of these Premier Pro stainless steel ranges 5 months ago for a newly renovated kitchen at our retreat center where we use it occasionally to prepare large meals for groups.  Ours is running on LP gas and I had it shipped cross country and installed it myself.  It arrived with some minor shipping damage that I failed to notice before signing for the range (the frame was slightly bent but luckily I was able to bend it back into position so that everything fit together properly).  The instillation took a couple of hours but it all went pretty smoothly.

If you're located in an area where electric power could be unreliable or if you're using SOLAR ELECTRIC POWER, THIS IS THE RANGE FOR YOU!  Both the oven and the cooktop can be operated without electricity (lit with a match and there's no power wasting "glowbar" in the oven), so if you have gas, it will cook.  The oven is particularly nice, plenty of space, even temperature distribution, and it has a pretty accurate temperature control.  The top burners have a somewhat limited range of heat output; even when set on their lowest setting they tend to put out too much heat to simmer something in a small pan or too little heat to bring a large pot of water to a boil when you're in a hurry.

This range looks great and I am very happy that I enlarged my kitchen opening to 36 inches to accommodate it.  I would suggest that you buy a set of burner protector pans at a hardware store to make it easier to clean drips from pots.  About the only thing that's a little annoying about using the range is that the electric "clicker" ignition sometimes doesn't light the burners right away (I've had this problem on other gas stoves too) but the oven ignition always works fine.

All in all, this is a fine range and it has received many compliments from the amateur cooks who use it.  It certainly makes you wonder how other brands can charge 3 to 5 times as much for a 6 burner gas range.  Let's hope they continue to make this model; I don't think that there's anything else on the market that's comparable.


I bought this washer & the matching dryer. In about 30 days the washer broke down. I spent two hours on the phone trying to contact someone about doing a return and all I got was passed around and given one phone number, then another, then another....
I was finally able to speak to a regional manager, John Sanders, and he immediately jumped on the defensive and was extremely rude. First, he told me they don't do returns, then he retracted and stated they only do returns if the customer is really dissatisfied and then they charge a 25% restocking fee, plus freight charges. WOW! You send me a defective item and then charge me when I want to return it. How do you like that for customer service?!

The washer filled up with water and then just quit working. It's only been used a few times. When you try to start a cycle, it just beeps and turns off. Also, it put holes in some of my clothes. The strange thing is, when I do an Internet search for consumer reviews on this item there are only a few and the majority of them are bad. All the other manufacturers have hundreds of reviews on their washers (all positive) and rate about a 4.5 out of 5 stars. It looks like no one is purchasing this washer. I also noticed that the few positive reviews on this GE washer have comments like, "Great washer and it didn't rip my clothes...." "This washer cleans my clothes really well and didn't damage them..." "My clothes don't get holes in them when I wash them." What odd comments. It sounds to me like all the positive reviews were written by GE employees and they're totally aware that the washer rips your clothes. Well, my cothes DID get damaged during the wash and they've arranged it to cost a fortune to return the appliance so the consumer will be better off just keeping it. I already paid over $2,000 for the set.

I think it's despicable to sell such a crappy product in the first place, but then to make it unaffordable for your customers to return the item is criminal! Go with LG or Maytag. They have AWESOME reviews for their products!


I love this set! I've had mine for 3 years now.  Washing time may be longer but I can really do much more laundry in 1 load so in all reality, I'm doing 2 loads at one time. The spin cycle really gets A LOT of the moisture out so that drying time is significantly less (have the dryer that has a "moisture" sensing feature, so it cuts down on drying time if the items in the dryer are dry before the timed cycle, then it shuts off instead of continuing to run).  When I first bought it, I was concerned about it not getting my clothes clean enough. This washer exceeded my expectations and gets everything superclean.  I use less water, less detergent (definitely get HE, I made the beginner's mistake of using regular Tide...waaay too sudsy, had to do a second rinse!), and savings on both water bill and electric bill. My unit is very quiet, I kept checking on it when I first got it because I thought it stopped. My only complaint is that I didn't get the version with a soak feature, which I like to use with whites. I've found that I really don't need to soak as long as I use the Whitest Whites cycle with a little bleach or Mule Team.

As far as the complaints of mold....that's because those people didn't read their instruction manual which specifically states to leave the door open so that the inside can dry out to PREVENT the moldy smell since the drum is absolutely sealed with the door closed.  The manual also states that you should run a Clean Washer cycle once a month which keeps it clean and mold/germ free.  The manuals aren't just fluff...they're actually there for a reason, people!

I wish I could have gotten the bigger set but my laundry room is small and this fit perfectly into the space. I also recommend getting the pedestals. At $100 a piece you may think to skip them but you really should get them.  Saves the back plus you get nice little compartments to keep the detergent and other things handy.


I purchased the AcuRite wireless 00611A3 to measure the temps and humidity of our attic here in Louisiana. We have a Ranch style home 2,000+ and a low pitched roof. The unit was up in 2 places for months while we monitored summer heat and humidity. It worked perfect, measuring over 160 (f) and reporting attic humidity. We moved the outdoor sensor behind a column to block the setting sun and under our eves not touching any part of the house 8" (inches) from any material and not in direct wind, rain or sun. With one new Li battery it has been going strong for over a year. We have used 4 other types of outdoor temp / humidity sensors to date and this one by far is the best.
I haven't checked the max range of the wireless but separated by two brick walls, wood wall and a really large fireplace we have it at 35' (ft) working fine. While in the attic we had at the longest 65' (ft). The signal indicator shows great signal. I'm sure it will work great at longer ranges but couldn't tell you right now.

AcuRite 00611A3 Wireless Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer and Humidity Sensor

Update: 3-22-2017 : The Remote fails to connect 100% of the time. From the looks of the battery compartment and knowing our humidity runs high here in Louisiana it's no wonder the contacts became corrupted. I have to say this unit has really done a great job and lasted longer than others we have owned in the same price range. We have the indoor united mounted on the wall and use it know for internal temps.
Well we be ordering another? Yes, what we paid was less than others that lasted only one summer. Still a 5 star product in my book. Just wish I had sealed everything but the sensor before placing it outside. I'll show how to seal it when we have our new one.


I was completely disgusted by this product, but not because of Amazon.  I'm fairly handy, got an E68 code, spent hours figuring out how to run diagnostics from the Internet and blah, blah, blah. Dismantled and put back together this component, just to see if it was suffering from an improperly seated cable connection, or something else minor that would be causing the E68 code, but no luck.  When I found the replacement control unit on Amazon my wife had me cancel an order for a new dryer to "save money" ... big mistake and waste of time, plus we were now bypassing advice from an appliance shop to dump the Frigidaire and to never buy an appliance with electronic controls ever again.  Put in replacement PC board after transferring several  components from old assembly to new assembly, and the new assembly wouldn't even allow selection of the dryer cycles. This is several days into trying to "fix" the dryer ... I returned the part with an RMA via Amazon rep by phone.  Amazon's service rep was absolutely AWESOME ... thought I might get an argument, but I didn't and I verified the credit on by statement within days. This is just one more reason to love Amazon. We ended up buying a brand new commercial duty Maytag dryer for $240 from a gal who accidentally bought electric instead of gas and put it on craigslist ... the new dryer works beautifully, has simple non-electronic controls, and dries loads about 1/3rd faster. The dryer we ended up buying was all of about 10$ more than this part with tax and 2-day shipping.  I normally rate products highly if they simply meet my needs without much hassle.  I don't knock down products just because I screwed up and the item isn't quite what I wanted ... that's my fault.  But for $220 bucks, this product really blows and doesn't really provide much advantage in terms of your time and money.


Very Handy for small items of clothing!  We received our Panda MIni Portable Washing Machine a few days ago and began the getting acquainted process this morning.  We have 3 children in the house under 7, lots of small-sized underwear, socks, shirts, and face towels for drying tushies after using the bidet: each child has his own color.  We set the Panda on a small table inside the tub, which has both an overhead and handheld shower fixture, plugged in the machine after giving it a quick warm water rinse, and began filling it, a little less than half full, with three hearty squirts of liquid detergent, 5 briefs, 6 face cloths, and a shirt.  Yes, the timer knob is next to useless; we'll just have to learn how it works using a watch and marking the machine at 5 minute intervals.  The machine came on, started juggling for a couple of minutes and then stopped . And then started again.  And then stopped.  And then started again and then...well, you get the picture.  None of the reviews I read mentioned this starting/stopping action.  Is that normal?  We checked that nothing was tangled, that the machine was level and stable...I will have to call the company about it.  After 10 minutes of agitated washing, we stopped it, put the run-off hose attached on the right side face down, and let most of the water run out right into the tub..  We rinsed the clothes twice using the hand-held shower attachment, hooking up and then letting down the run-off hose in-between rinses.  When the water was clear we let the clothes spin around a minute or so, and yes, they had to be wrung out, but that wasn't too hard, and yes, everything was very clean.  A successful first attempt!  We will try washing some small gym shoes next.  We need to find out about the intermittent starting and also about a bit of unusual strained engine noise.  The machine is energetic but not too noisy and seems to do a very decent washing job. I purchased the Amazon warranty for under $10 just in case something goes wrong, but I think the machine has a 3 year manufacturing warranty as well.


So, shortly prior to the purchase of our 1930 Colonial, the previors owner completely remodeled the kitchen, using solely Fisher Paykel/DCS appliances.  The dish drawer fronts are classy stainless steel, easily cleaned with white vinegar.  The upper drawer is taller than the lower, providing for excellent cleaning of larger items.  That being said, one must take care to not place items in it taller than the top edge so the lid can completely seal.  Apparently, that causes water leaks, which generates an error code. We wash our coffee pot, filter basket and holder, mugs, juicer and blender jar daily, along with the accumulated dishes and utensils that comes with the morning's fare.  The lower drawer holds all other manner of kitchen ware, without difficulty. it just can't be too tall.  We initially used the short cycle with eco setting, for obvious reasons.  Saving water and air drying is what we all should be doing, right?  Well, I discovered that the kidney-shaped filter screen in the bottom under the utensil basket gets really scummy, plugged and gross.  It's easy to clean, though.  A veggie brush and dish soap tackles the job easily.  I now use the normal cycle on eco and the screen stays clean much longer.  And the dishes never emerge dirty or with soap scum on them.  Dishwasher powder is called for here, you can't use tablets of any type.  I clean the interior monthly by placing a measuring cup of white vinegar on the bottom rack and a half cup of baking soda on the top one, run it on the longest cycle with eco (no dryer) and the interior is sparkling clean.  Those are the pros.  Not to say I haven't had issues.  I got the dreaded disco lights on the control panels, which meant a service call.  I luckily found a company who specalizes in FP/DCS.  He found the issue in no time, replaced a part (worn wheel or dilithium crystal or something) and have not had an issue since. This guy has a truck full of parts for it.  I'm not sure what that says about the quality, durability and life expectance, but ours are at least 6 or 7 years old.  10/10 would purchase.


Received the machine today, in its original box set in a larger box with corner bumpers. No box damage at all. I wiped it out, washed the tray & scoop, filled it and within 15 minutes it dropped two makings with no noticeable smell. The cubes are not as large as hoped, but just fine as is. I don't think it is very noisy, but my ears are old! The color is like the cinnamon color of our counter mixer; both units compliment each other and sure brighten the kitchen.
With 2 day shipping from Prime and the great price, buy it, you will enjoy!

Update 12/21/2012: Well, as with some other reviews here, I am sorry to say the machine has died. It will still make ice; however, the gearing that moves the water tray has frozen and will not move. Sad that it is only several months out of warranty. I will call NewAir and see if they will make this right. If not, we will not buy any of their makers, but go with a more expensive one. We had hoped this little unit would last at least 4-5 years.
Maybe I will attempt to remove the casing and see if I can get the gearing apparatus to release.

UPDATE: 01/15/2013: I removed the back and top covers finding the drive motor had a rusted/frozen shaft. There was no grommet/o-ring sealing the shaft from moisture exposure. Therefore, nature took its course and moisture did its job. Sad reflection on the maker of these units that they could not better protect the motor and shaft. Guaranteed shaft freeze down the road. The next saddest thing is I called New Air and tried to order a replacement motor; I was told that they had to check if they could get one and would email me with info. After 24 hours and no reply, I searched and found the part on Magic Chef's parts order site and then verified the motor type with Magic Chef: [...]. Seems that many different ice makers are made by the same company and under many different brands.
The part w/shipping was $35.90.
We will no longer purchase from New Air; they may have good prices, but not having immediate access to parts? Sad...


Installed for a week and so far very happy with the performance.  This was a replacement for a very high end Whirlpool fresh ice maker which died after 7 years.  It would cost more to repair that unit than the price of this one.  Completely different units of course so you cannot compare but we no longer needed quite as much ice production once the kids where out of the house and the weekend sporting events were over.

I recommend throwing away the connection tubing that came with the unit and get a good steel braided hose with compression fittings already on both ends.  If you have ever had an appliance leak, you know where I am coming from.  Minimize the number of connectors, possibility to kink and you will be much happier.  I already had mine in place so the water hookup took minutes but even a new one would only take minutes to install.  Pickup at any hardware or home improvement store. No teflon tape needed.

One point I will make is the unit is a little short for us to sit directly on the floor.  I built a little 16"x16" square table that is 9" high to put the unit on.  Nothing fancy just very solid for the weight and stability, scrap wood from the garage.  Made all the difference for us.

One question I have posted and would like some help answering is what is the threaded hole for in the bottom of the compartment under the ice bucket?  It looks to be about 1" in diameter. It is covered when the ice bucket is in place and there is not reference to it any where I can find and it does not look like a drain to me.

EDIT:  I got an immediate answer to my question and it turns out it is a drain for defrost.  I noticed a little black cover on the outside but never went back to investigate after install.  The cover unscrews would allow water from defrost or cleaning to drain out to a tray or bucket.  Thank you very much for the information!


Great idea, needs improvement...a lot of improvement

The 2nd use, our tube that connects from the faucet to the machine split, causing water to leak everywhere. A roll of plumbers tape fixed the issue, but the tube shouldn't have broken to start with.

The lint catcher is totally useless. On our first wash, it popped off. It continues to pop off. By the end of the first week, I got so frustrated with it, that I threw it away, because the plastic just doesn't hold up to staying connected to the machine. Now I have a lint problem. There are 3rd party lint catchers, according to other reviews I've read, that you can get online - but the point is that I shouldn't HAVE to buy something else to take care of it.

The machine leaks. I have a video of it leaking around the top of the unit down the sides. I would have assumed this was because it wasn't draining, but I'm watching steady streams of water come out the exit tube into our toilet, which is level with the machine.

The timer on the spinner doesn't always engage spin when the two doors are closed. I've had to unplug/replug the machine back in to get it to "reset" to get it to work.

The spin bucket top (the ring around the bucket) comes loose often and causes it to rub on the machine, which has caused the plastic to shred around the top. This causes an unbalanced bucket, and a heck of a lot of noise sounding like the machine is going to take off like an airplane.

The machine overall does a good job with washing though once you get the hang of it. Most items tend to ball up in the center, so you have to keep an eye on it. I just wish it didn't have these other issues. I have used it less than a month - I shouldn't have to pay to send it back to Panda to have it repaired. I haven't even contacted them because I'm sure that is what they will tell me to do. I am searching for a replacement that will work in place of our Panda. I should get a working machine, without issues - from the start.