This was a perfect transaction.  I looked at all of the models of 18 inch dishwashers and all of them had their pluses and minuses;  even the most expensive models.  The SPT was truly no worse in its reviews and it was a LOT less expensive.
It arrived on time.  It had excellent packaging.  The delivery was up six steps to our front porch by UPS and that was perfect.

I was replacing a GE 18 inch washer because it was 10 years old and the pump was failing.  It was a very tight space and the specifications for the SPT were exact so it fit in perfectly into the slot.  I originally  installed the GE by myself and had to replace a few parts along the way so I am probably considered experienced in doing my own work.  But, I learned how to do my own work by reading the manual, asking a few questions at the local hardware store and just taking my time.  Thus, while i would not say that installing this is easy for an inexperienced person,  I am saying that it is possible to do on your own.  In contrast to some other reviews, the installation guide was very good, readable, and thorough.
One of the reasons we liked this and probably one of the reasons it is cheaper is that it does not have the heating phase to quickly dry the dishes when the cycle is over.  We actually found this to be a negative aspect of the GE because, well, really hot stuff is somewhat scary.  We turned that feature off on the GE and the dishes were always dry when we finally took them out of the washer.

Now to the interesting part.  In comparing the SPT  to our old model of GE (which looks remarkably like the current model of the 18 inch GE),  there are differences in the front panel and the interior  BUT, having installed, fixed, and ripped out the GE,  it looks an awful lot like, to my somewhat experienced eyes,  the guts of the GE machine (motor, pump, wiring, etc) are exactly the same as the SPT.  I would actually bet money that, whoever makes the current $899 GE  also makes the innards of the $300 SPT.  There are some differences - most notably the heating phase - but not that many differences.
The washer is working fine, it comes in at 55 decibels,  it takes a bit longer to cycle than the GE (the last fifteen minutes of the timer truly don't seem to do anything other than let the dishes dry of their own accord so subtract 15 minutes off the estimated times to get the actual wash time)
Great little machine.  I expect it to last 10 years and then I'll go buy another one.


..with this washer ! I've had the machine for about 2 months, now, and I would never own another. It's so quiet, I have to use the musical feature, to know, when it's done, and that's just sitting it in the laundry closet, without even seeing, if it was leveled. I read a lot of reviews and I'm glad I did not listen to most of them.
1. It uses plenty of water, you want your clothes washed, not sloshed around in dirty water. I think people think it's not enough, cause they are used to their laundry getting swooshed in a "bucket" of water, in top loaders.
2. I have had no problems at all, with smells or wearing of clothes, my whites come out snow white, not grey like some say.
3. To the ones that complain, that you have to leave the door open on this model, after use, newsflash, that's ALL front loaders, that's just the way it is.
I'm European and moved to the states 16 years, ago, I always hated the top loaders, that were popular, here and was glad, when mine finally broke, so I could get a front loader, again, which is what we use over seas. ( always have)
When I fist got it, I washed our towels and then got one from the linen closet, that had been cleaned with my old washer a few days back, had my husband sniff them both and he said the "old" towel smelled dirty compared to the "new" towel.
Laundry even feels cleaner, coming out of the wash, also the drying time is cut in half, cause the spin cycle in this gets stuff nearly dry.
I even wash our King sized comforters and the huge papasan pillow in this washer, never had any problems with the perfect balance or it not spinning, correctly.
I have no complaints, so far at all. I love this washer and everything about it.
The wave touch is a bit more expensive, and you can really go with the IQ touch and save a lot of money, I got lucky and found this one at a sears outlet for 899, cause it had a scratch on it...

Update: Just thought it was worth mentioning, that our water bill went from an average of around 50 bucks, down to 23 :)

Update: 12/21.2012.... I still have my washer and I still love it ! No problems whatsoever, only super clean laundry.


this little spin dryer turned out to be way above & beyond anything i expected. it's small. it's light weight...about 7 or 8 pounds. & it's SO easy to use. i've been using it about a month, now, (along with the washer) & have developed a bit of knowledge & a routine with them. my very first load was a nightmare because i put too many items in the spindry & it nearly hopped & bopped right off the counter because the items didn't settle in to a level load. if it had been taped, i could have ended up on AFV. i've learned that putting just 1 item in, turning it on, waiting a few moments for it to settle level & THEN pushing the "open lid" button to stop the spinner to add 1 or 2 more small items works best. for bath  towels & bath sheets, 1 at a time is best. because i'm a fanatic about rinsing all the soap out of my stuff, i return my spin dried items to the washer filled with fresh cold water + maybe a tiny bit of softener, let them swish around for 3 or so minutes, drain, transfer them back to the spindryer, & repeat that process as many times as i think is necessary. i REALLY want the soap out and absolutely believe that 3 rinses with spindrying between each rinse is a MUST to get the ''old'' water & soap out. my clothes are SO close to dry when they finish spinning, i am ALWAYS amazed. & the longer they spin, the dryer they get. definitely use the full 5 minutes. i like to use the professional dryer downstairs in the dreaded laundry room to finish off the process because my clothes end up softer. i always use ''warm'' or ''gentle'' for drying &, now, it does not take more than 30 minutes to dry everything. keeping a bath towel folded in half under the spin dryer is a good idea because it makes it even quieter & stabler & absorbs the small bit of water that can escape from the lid & run down the dryer onto the counter. i'm going to remove the top & re-caulk with silicone because a few little leaks have appeared & water trickles down the outside of the container. no big deal. i like the Panda spin dryer & washer so much that i bought another set for a friend & she has reported back to me that she LOVES them both & having them has made her life incredibly easier which is also true for me. thank you, Panda!


Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.

So enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.

1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.
2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.
3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.
4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).
5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.
6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.


This little washing machine is one of the best purchases I've ever made. I was skeptical at first, but I did go ahead and order one because I wanted to save many treks up and down my weird stairs (I live in a 3rd story apartment). I have washed clothes with this machine at least once a day since it was delivered last week, and it has been doing a wonderful job.

It is a bit labor-intensive, more so than just throwing clothes, detergent, and some coins in a machine and then sitting back and waiting until they are done. I do have to hook the water inlet hose up to a faucet, and if it doesn't hook up to a faucet well, and mine doesn't, I have to stand holding the inlet hose to my bathroom sink faucet until the water is where I want it. Once that is done, I have to push it back over into the corner so it is close to the tub for draining, and the electrical outlet so I can plug it in. But after those things are done, I have around 15 minutes to go do some other things. After the wash cycle finishes I have to make sure the drain hose is properly situated, and then I drain it into the bathtub. It drains really, really well though.

Rather than fill the wash side up for a rinse cycle to rinse the laundry detergent out, I have learned that I can actually rinse the clothes out while they are spinning. This the other labor-intensive part, but it is also super satisfying. So I pull the machine back over to the bathroom sink, hook the hose up to the spin dryer water inlet side, hook the drain hose up so it's draining into the toilet (drain hose is not too terribly long, so it doesn't reach my tub for this task), turn my spin dryer on, and then hold the fill hose up to the sink. I usually spin for 3 minutes gradually rinsing the clothes, and then 2 minutes just spin drying the clothes.

Overall, I really love this Panda washer. The whole thing, if I am not doing other things, takes about half an hour or so. My biggest complaint: The hoses are too short--both the fill hose and the drain hose. My bathroom isn't tiny, but it's not huge so this washer does take up some much needed room that I was planning on using for a couple of shelves to store my getting-ready-in-the-morning supplies. I would rather use this in my kitchen, but I would have to figure out a whole new drainage system because the drain hose will not reach my kitchen sink. Other than that I am gladly taking on being more vigilant with my laundry, than having to go up and down my weird stairs.


I found this based on how many people mentioned this brand for quietness, even on other product reviews. Then I saw that Broan is the same company as Nutone, the brand of the 30 year old unit I was replacing, so that sealed the deal.  This unit fit perfectly into the under-cabinet space and the mounting holes lined up.  My only problems with the installation were due to the previous one, where bolts were used for the front mounts, so screws would not fit because of the hole through bottom of the cabinet, and the funky 10x3 homemade sheet metal fitting in the old duct work, which was easily replaced with a $5 fitting from Home Depot.  As others have mentioned, the 1/2 inch wood screws for mounting this looked rather inadequate, and considering my cabinetry has a 1 inch lip around the bottom, I ended up having to get much longer bolts and screws to complete the installation. Other than that, there were no issues setting up the unit itself, though some of the directions could have been a bit more clear.  For instance, it took a while to figure out how to assemble the block for the recirculation vents, Just a few words about slipping part A through the slot in part B to align and click into place would have been useful.

The fan is extremely quiet on low operation.  On high, it is strong enough to pull the flame from the burner towards the center of the stove, even with a large skillet on top.  That said, I wish the design had the fan, or at least the screens, further forward, as I could see smoke getting sucked in through the light fixtures towards the front when frying fish. Perhaps a design with a lip that trapped more of the smoke rather than spilling it up into the room would do the trick.  As it is, there is still some smoke that escapes the draw of the fan, though certainly far less than the old unit, even before its fan died.

Finally, the other thing I'd like different would be separate switches for the lights.  Even on low setting, those 50 watt halogens are very bright and they run hot.  I don't need both on when just cooking on one side of the stove or leaving on as a night light.  I may just use one bulb instead of two, though given how much smoke I saw drawn through the light fixture opening, I'm concerned about greasing up the light socket if it's empty. It's too bad that LED's are not recommended for this unit. For the price, however, and ease of installation, this is a good unit and I'm pleased with it so far.


Get the PAN60SF its 3.75 cubic feet. Pretty decent size for this being a 110v model. Clothes do take longer to dry being its half the power of a standard 220v dryer. But a longer dry time sure beats going to a laundromat or my building's gross laundry facility down in a dungeness setting in the basement. Yuuck! This dryer is perfect if you live in an apartment with no special venting or electric. Just a standard 110 outlet. I plugged my dryer into an outlet that doesnt have too many other appliances or tvs connected to the same circut. My PAN60SF arrived in a plain box over the original which made my delivery discreet. Which I appreciate alot. Thank you amazon
In my opinion this dryer goes best with the Danby DWM17WDB  1.7 cubic foot portable washing maching. I prefer this washer over any other portable washer because it replicates the  old school agitator found in the middle of the washer which moves and thoroughly washes the clothes. This technology has been around for decades and still is very effective. The new pulsator washers which basically is disk that swishes arround clothes often tangles everything up and doesn't clean very well. Im pleased  that Danby still offers this old type of machine with modern controls.
Both appliances are reasonably priced. Compared to big brands costing nearly double the price. I am very pleased that I took a risk and purchased 2 wonderful appliances. I just received my dryer and im putting it to work. So far so good about an hour for 4 tanks 4 tshirts bunch of socks and boxers 1 hooded sweat shirt. I have been using the Danby washer for over a year and still runs strong. I am just an average person on a moderate income. expressing my opinion about these appliances. I would recommend these products. Danby and Panda very pleased over here. No more walking in the rain and cold outside to the laundry room. I myself used these reviews to make my decision on my appliance purchases. Check out the Danby washer too. I snapped some pics to show what im talking about when I mentioned I like the fact this machine uses an agitator to wash. Which makes all the different in clean clothes.
I just wanted to add to my review. Being Pandas controls are on the bottom which is perfect if mount on a wall or have a stand. But i don't have dryer stand kind of money so i improvised.  Go to ikea and purchase the "Lack" side table it costs $9.99 and raises the dryer off the floor enough to comfortably get clothes out dryer and reach controls with out crawling on the floor. Its super easy to put together i did mine in 10 mins. Check out the photo.


I like this little unit so far. I've done a lot of loads in the past week that I've had it and so far so good. I'll update it again if anything changes.

A few things others haven't mentioned that I learned from experience or saw on some YouTube videos that I found to be helpful:
1) Don't fill the wash tub more than about half way up with water and that should cover the clothes with water, otherwise your load is too big. This is for two reasons. First, too much water and it will splash out the top seams which are not sealed. Second, the load will be too heavy and the agitator will have trouble moving the clothes. For example, three bath towels is the max (but I spin each separately!)
2) You can do a load of whites! I wasn't sure about this because I wasn't 100% sure how it all worked at first. For the whites I would fill the tube with water first, add your detergent and bleach first, start your timer and then add your clothes.
3) I still don't get the point of the rinse port on the spin side. I tried it before spinning. Makes no sense. I tried it while spinning, bad idea. So I drain the wash tub squeeze the clothes out and add fresh water to run a rinse cycle with some fabric softener.
4) Most things only need to be set for 2 minutes on spin. I spin heavy duty things like towels or sheets for longer, especially if they are going in my compact dryer. Delicates or fabrics that will stretch I do for only a minute.

Edit: two years (almost exactly) to the day and the pump on the wash tub broke - as did the middle knob to turn the pump on. However, I still think this was 100% worth the money for lasting that long. After taxes I paid $172 so for a little more than $7 a month I had laundry in my big bathroom. I have a 5 year old who takes baths so I hooked the hose to the shower head and used that to fill, easy peasy.

Washing got easier over time. I filled the tub higher, spun everything on 5 mins and dried in my portable dryer on the patio.

This time Im looking at the automatic portable so I don't have to babysit loads so much between fill to wash, fill to rinse, change to spin, etc. I think the price difference will be worth it (I hope.).

Anyway, for me, decent little machine totally worth the investment even tho it only lasted two years.


Before I begin, let me just say that its a 60 mile round trip to visit the laundry mat, at a cost of $40 each time (including gas to make the trip. So I was desperate when I ordered my Wonderwash, even though I have to collect rain water or haul it in to wash clothes. Okay, here goes; Few products have such varying reviews as this one. You have to conform to the machine, not the other way around. There are no written assembly instructions, just a few drawings at the bottom of the paper that comes with it. However, its not at all complicated to figure out and assembles in 5 minutes. Use steaming hot water but not boiling hot. Add water first, then detergent, then clothes, in that order! There is a learning curve to the cranking speed and it varies from load to load. If you crank too slow, it won't agitate the clothes properly. If you crank too fast, it won't agitate the clothes at all. Vary your cranking speed until you hear and feel that distinctive "plop" with each rotation, then continue for 2 minutes. Longer cranking time does NOT get the clothes any more clean. Its's better to wash the clothes twice at 2 minutes each than to crank the washer for 4 minutes. I have only done full loads. I fill the unit to the half way mark, then add 1-2 tablespoons of detergent, then add 5 lbs of clothes (yes I do weigh the dirty clothes before putting them in the washer). And 4.8 to 5.0 lbs is a full load, you can fit more but they won't get as clean. After washing, I attach the drain spout first, then remove the lid to let it drain faster. After clothes are removed and wrung out by hand, I rinse the washer with a cup of water before filling half way with new rinse water and adding clothes. Only 1 minute of cranking is necessary to rinse. Then drain as before, wring out the clothes and hang on the line to dry. The instructions say 1.5 gallon of water to wash a full load, I just fill it to the center mark which is just about 2 gallons, use the same amount of water to rinse. Five lbs of clothes is more than you might think. After washing and wringing them out, they will fill a metal dishpan level to the top. You can wash 2 pair of jeans no problem. One last bit of advice here, this thing is made of plastic, so you have to treat it fairly easy. The tub itself is pretty strong but the frame and crank handle won't take much abuse. I may even build my own base out of plywood to strengthen this thing up some because the base is really flimsy.


I've been using Jon-e handwarmers for over 15 years. The handwarmer never fails to do it's job either, and I normally get about 16 hours out of each fill-up.

Here's how it works: You take the removable main (flameless) wick top off of the handwarmer and fill the unit with fluid. Do not overfill! Place the flameless wick back on warmer and let it sit for a few minutes so that the fluid distributes itself evenly. Make sure there is no fluid on the outside of the warmer, if there is, simply wipe it off thoroughly. Light the "lighting wick" of the warmer, which is the small wick at the base of the flameless wick. Allow this wick to burn for a minute or two so that the flameless wick gets a chance to start glowing. Once the flameless wick is glowing, extinguish the lighting wick and place the top back on the warmer. Let the warmer sit upright for a few minutes to warm up before placing it in the flannel pouch. Now you are ready to keep those hands toasty warm.

It sounds like a lot of steps to use, but really it isn't. It's easy and simple, and actually takes less time to get going than the 20-30 minutes it takes for a chemical-pouch warmer to reach full operating temperature.

You have to remember that this warmer uses a glowing wick to burn fuel to create warmth, so you have to let it breathe every so often to keep it burning. This requires oxygen to keep it going, so if the warmer starts losing too much warmth, which normally will happen when it's kept in your pocket for a while, simply take the warmer out of your pocket, slide the top out of the felt pouch and set it upright in the open air for 5 or 10 minutes. This will allow the warmer to get more oxygen and start burning good again. Then all you do is pull the flannel pouch back over it and it's good to go for quite a while longer.

As for the odor it produces, it is no stronger nor any different from that of a Zippo lighter. If you overfill it and it leaks fluid then the smell will be stronger, but if used properly and not overfilled, the odor is not bad at all, and is easy to get used to. I find this type of warmer much more comforting to use than the little plastic chemical packs, because with these you can grab them tight with hands to get warm quick, without fear of them breaking, bursting, or the chemical contents leaking out all over the place. The metal housing is very sturdy and the flannel pouch is nice and soft to the touch.


Two years after purchasing Bosch's "stainless" steel "rust-free" dishwasher with a "lifetime warranty" against rust, we discovered... rust. It was in a very specific area, where the metal filter attaches to the interior tub. We called Bosch and were told that it was our fault, that it was our water, our dishwasher soap, our flatware--anything but the dishwasher. We persisted, explaining that we use a water softener and a reverse-osmosis system and that our water is no worse, and probably a bit better, than average. Furthermore, if it was merely our water, then we would expect to see rust everywhere. As for our dishwasher soap--well--it comes from Costco, and I'm sure they'd take exception to Bosch's claim that it promotes rust. We offered our own theory, which is that the metal used in the filter is dissimilar to the metal in the tub, resulting in a galvanic reaction and corrosion to the metals. Basically, the two different metals, pressed together in an aqueous environment, results in a battery. But for Bosch to admit this would be to admit a design flaw--the sort of admission that leads to a class-action lawsuit. We already know Bosch uses a variety of "stainless" metals. For example, the metal used on the door is a very inferior grade of stainless steel that is easily streaked and spotted. And the way you can tell is to use a magnet. If the magnet sticks then it's ferrous metal and more prone to staining.

This section is taken right out of the manual: "Stainless Steel TallTub: A rust-free, hygienic interior surface with a lifetime warranty." Bosch routinely advertises a "lifetime rust-free warranty". The sales reps will tell you that the unit comes with a lifetime rust-free warranty.

Yet Bosch claims they don't actually guarantee the tub to be rust-free; they only warrant against "rust-through", meaning you will have to live with the rust until it eats a hole through the metal--until water starts pouring into some part of the dishwasher where it doesn't belong (hopefully not endangering you, your family, or your home, in the process). When you consider that Bosch basically expects you to use their rusting appliance until there's a catastrophic failure, you realize that the advertisements, selling points, and sales pitches regarding "rust-free" and "lifetime warranty" are all fraudulent.

Bosch offered no remedies and suggested that the rust can be removed (on our dime, of course). The problem is that even if we use a rust-removing product, the rust will return in time, because the source of the rust--a design flaw--remains.


I don't normally write a lot of reviews on products unless I feel that they are outstanding in some way. I have been using this product for a couple of weeks now and the more I use it, the happier I become.
I just recently discovered silicone lids on Amazon. All I could say after receiving them was, "WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE?" LOL.
I purchased a set of round ones to fit on my pyrex dishes and round pots/pans and then I purchased this rectangular lid from CMS Trade Group for my 13x9"  bakeware all at the same time. The silicone lids are all that they are cracked up to be. Because they are silicone and can withstand high temperatures, you can use them in the oven, on top of your pots and pans while cooking, and just put them on top of your dishes when you have left-overs and put them in the fridge!. The pictures they have on the description, where it seals so well that you can actually lift the dish up by the silicone lid is actually true. It won't withstand you holding it like that for a great length of time or anything, but it gives you the point that if you are using it to put away some left-overs, you are getting a good seal so your food doesn't dry out!!
Something that sets this particular lid apart from some of the rest on Amazon is #1..the price!! This product was definitely the most reasonably priced one on Amazon!! and  #2,  I really liked that it has the ability to be hung on a hook (which some of the silicone lids DO NOT. After receiving my lids, that particular feature became very important to me (Esp when you see my pictures!)
In my kitchen, I have one large cabinet that was just for pots and pans with their lids. I have another large cabinet that was for my Pyrex dishes and their lids. For my pots and pans, the lids for those took up half my drawer space. Since receiving my silicone lids, I have taken all of those lids out to the garage and just have the silicone hanging on a hook in the cabinet. IT HAS COMPLETELY GIVEN ME SO MUCH MORE SPACE IT IS UNBELIEVABLE!! The silicone lids are SO versatile because not only will they fit and seal on a 9x13" rectangular pan, but also smaller. I have also used it to seal a Pyrex dish that was 8x12".I recommended this product to all my friends and family.


After a significant amount of research and toiling over the seemingly excessive prices for dryers (it seems like they've doubled in the last 10 years), I landed on this model, primarily due to a high Consumer Reports rating, an extremely big discount from Best Buy, and because it looks very similar to a Kenmore Elite I replaced. In fact, it fits the Kenmore base perfectly and, at a glance, is a very close match to my old washer that it sits next to. I have had it for 3 months now, and I'm at a point where I can say I definitely don't like it.

There are several significant irritants with this dryer. First, it balls-up almost all large items like no other dryer I have ever used. Sheets, towels, and even jeans are ALWAYS wound in a tight mess of a knot, along with everything else that gets caught in the wrath. This happens within a few minutes into the cycle. In particular, drying sheets requires at least 3 complete removals and unwindings during the 1+ hour of drying time. If you forget to do this, you'll easily triple the dry time, having to unravel and restart the load--they'll be wound so tight that nothing will dry. I don't know if it is the speed of the drum, the odd paddles (they're shaped like none other I've seen before), or what.

Second, it developed an annoying rattle inside, toward the back, after a few months of use. I read another review that mentioned a "scraping" noise, which may be the same thing I'm experiencing. It sounds more like a rattle, in my opinion--probably some metal object that has become loose inside. This isn't a huge deal for me, as my laundry room is in the basement, but it is extremely annoying.

Those aside, there are a few other minor annoyances, like when checking clothes mid-cycle (or unraveling, per my earlier comment), there is a chime to indicate that the door is open, just like on a car when you leave the keys in the ignition. This is a completely unnecessary and annoying feature. Also, the unit has to be turned off and on between loads. It takes several seconds to turn on (very much like a Samsung TV, in fact). Why can't I make my selections and push "start" like every other dryer I've ever owned? I mentioned the dry time for sheets--it seems long, but judging from my last dryer, it takes about the same length of time.

The plusses? It looks nice and has very good capacity for the size. It does dry thoroughly if you use the "more dry" setting and don't overload it. However, the benefits do not outweigh the problems. In hindsight, I would have gladly paid another $200 for a dryer without these issues.


My laundry room gets cold, it literally has no insulation. We even had frost on the linoleum a couple times. It draws a lot of hot air into it from the rest of the house so I've taken to putting a towel under the door to stop the cold air blasting through. Also, the air is very dry as is normal in winter.

This dryer heat diverter made a huge difference almost immediately. I say "almost" because i installed it backwords first (lol). The first load I tried to dry with it took 2 and 1/2 cycles to dry before i figured it out. It heated up the room incredibly fast once I reinstalled it correctly. I am able to keep the door open and have all that heat and humidity roll in through the kitchen and living room. It's great!!!

It's not without its flaws, though.

1. It feels pretty flimsy. I think they could have molded this thing into one solid piece. The 2 zip ties that it comes with WILL hold it together well if you can get them tight enough. Also, the zip-ties have little release tabs so you can reuse them if you need to take the thing apart for anything. You could also just get some 4" hose clamps if you wanted to spend the extra cash.

2. The screen that comes on the little round part is a little too wide and some dust does blow out. THIS IS YOUR CHANCE TO BE CREATIVE! I took a used dryer sheet, popped off the screen cap, placed the used dryer sheet behind it, and put the screen cap back on the diverter. It fits a little more tight this way, too. I see in other reviews the some people used pantyhose, but the dryer sheet gives off a nice smell so I went with that.

3. There is no mount to hang this thing or attach it to the wall behind the dryer. I ended up just setting it on top of the control panel for my dryer and against the wall. The diverter kind of aims up over my head if I were standing in front of the dryer.

For those 3 reasons, I can only give this 4 stars and that ONLY because it would be made better. The idea is great, execution... Could be improved.

In conclusion, If you are looking to potentially save some money, why not get one of these things? I had enough stuff in my cart for free shipping so for around $6, it seemed like an idea I couldn't pass on. I'm glad i didn't!


I bought this so I wouldn't have to deal with the hassle of cutting and splicing wires.  This was supposedly compatible with my stove model, so I paid extra for the snap supply connector.  But be advised as shown in my photos: The snap assembly has an extra requirement for compatibility as shown on the tag reading, "WARNING: Use only with the EATON 4100 Series Automatic Valves," and the plastic pin guards/guides don't fit with my connector. The ones on this new one are shaped to prevent snapping into the wrong supply assembly--see how they're both flat on one side? My oven has one round pin guard and one flat.  Don't know if this means I *also* shouldn't simply cut and splice this, but I'll never know because the new igniter flipped off the table while I was finagling the pin guard into the light in the kitchen to try to photograph this so you can actually see it.  The igniter bar shattered on the floor (also pictured) because my hand came down on the very stiff wires and flipped it right over as I tried to focus on the pins.

Extra joke on me: I had bought ceramic nuts also, in case the assembly didn't work, because I couldn't tell from the photo or any details in the product description that this would *really* fit in the first place.  But guess what? There are ceramic wire nuts included with this, even though they aren't in the photo and aren't mentioned. The cynic in me is pretty sure both the manufacturer and the seller know darn well you're almost certainly going to have to cut off the snap assembly anyway, and that extra inclusion of the photo, and/or mention of the ceramic nuts being included, might tip you off to that high probability.

So, for those of you who bought this more expensive igniter for that snap assembly, like me?  Just drive to a hardware store and buy one, or get same-day Amazon shipping on the cheaper version that is up front about requiring a splice and shows the required, included ceramic nuts in the product photo.  It's not hard to make that extra effort to splice.

Though this was frustrating and cash down the drain for me yesterday, it's worth it if this helps any of you before you make the same mistakes I did....not just buying this bum deal, but also breaking it, because I just haaaad to stop to photograph it so you can see pictures in addition to comments.  Pictures are worth way more than my words here, and this should have included better photos and complete information in the first place.


This AcuRite 01080 Pro is one of the better designs in humidity monitors that are available on the market right now IMO.
It not only has a great set of features but it is also easy to learn to use. It also looks nice and I don't mind it being displayed in the house.

When it comes to deciding where you want to place it you have options. You can magnetically attach the included base for tabletop use, hang it on a wall using the nail hole in the back or magnetically attach it to your refrigerator or similar metal object. It is nice to have options and they have been tastefully implemented into the design. I do appreciate the easy to attach base as well as the magnetic capabilities.

The round puck style is both functional and aesthetically unobtrusive. It measures approximately 3.75" in diameter and I find that to be just the right size for the information that needs to be displayed on its screen to be both legible and decipherable. All the information needed is right on the display. There are no submenus nor dual purpose lines of text. What you see is what there is.

The simplicity of the design is another reason I find this one to be much more likable than other designs. There are only 4 buttons and a switch on the back of the unit. The switch is for selecting between F or C. The UP and DOWN arrow buttons are for setting the alarm high and low points as well as calibration. The ALARM button cycles it on or off. The RECORDS button cycles thru previous readings. You do need to hold the unit in your hand to be able to press the buttons as they are on the rear of the unit. That is why I prefer the base or to magnetically mount it as it allows for easy manipulation of the buttons.

This is a monitor that you will need to hold in your hand and manipulate to use it fully.

It requires 2 AAA batteries that are not included.

I find it to be well constructed and made from quality components.

The LCD screen is highly visible. You can see it completely from side to side. It is only from an up and down angle that it begins to fade and eventually not be visible. I find the screen to be easily read even in lower light conditions. The background behind the LCD screen is reflective and even just a little bit of light in the room will allow you to read it. This is one of the best displays on a small humidity monitor that I have seen.

I would recommend this monitor as you get a lot for the inexpensive price. It is a quality unit.


On Norcold model N300 fridge, the thermocouple wouldn't keep the pilot lit. First suspect, as always, was the thermocouple. Looked at the thermocouple through the back of the unit and noticed it was not correctly threaded into the interrupter. The threaded inlet on the interruptor wasn't deep enough to fully engage the threads of the thermocouple fitting. I purchased the new thermocouple and attempted to install and wound up with same problem - fitting wouldn't thread properly into the interrupter. I could only just barely catch the first thread of the thermocouple fitting with the threads in the interrupter. Fitting was inserted as far as it would go down into the interrupter inlet. Needless to say, problem not solved by new thermocouple. Began to suspect someone had used the wrong interrupter at install or previous repair time (I bought the trailer used). OK. More research. Ahhhh...apparently there were several fridges manufactured by Norcold using connectors made of material with with too high resistance factor to be able efficiently carry the few milliamperes generated by the thermocouple through the valve control system. To fix this Norcold created a replacement wiring harness that consists of just two wires (red and blue) and their connectors.

For details see Norcold Service Bulletin N300 LP Mode Troubleshooting TNCSTP 081804
Here: http://comet.ak.planet.gen.nz/~matelec/PDF/n300_lp_bulletin_081804.pdf

I ordered these wires with their connectors along with a new interruptor (Norcold Inc. Refrigerators 621737 Thermocouple Interrupter) and it all installed easily, the previously purchased thermocouple threaded right into the new interrupter, and the fridge now works fine. By the way - depending on your particular circumstances, you may not have to take the whole fridge out of the cabinet to replace the wires. I was able to get my arms past the cooling fins on the backside and work it from the outside access on the trailer. It helped me to wear long sleeves as I pushed my arms up and over the cooling fins - the corners were scratchy. Be careful when you pull off the connector going to the flame meter when you replace the interrupter, that wire is tiny gauge and you don't want to give the connector too hard of a pull and end up yanking the wire out of the meter when it finally lets go. I think I came close on mine,

In the end I can't know if it was the thermocouple or the interrupter or the wires and connectors, but replacing all three components has, so far, solved the problem. We took it on a three day jaunt right after installation and it worked fine the whole time.


In 2002, I bought a Whirlpool Duet washer (GHW9200LQ) and dryer (GEW9200LQ0) set after return from overseas assignment in Germany.  They stayed in Texas for 11 years during my tours in Virginia, Iraq, Kuwait, Japan and Kansas. We moved into our forever home Jan 2015, and because we now also have a freezer and our old side-by-side in the laundry room, I researched stacking to make space for everything.
I was concerned because of the age of my set, that any kits I would find would be for much newer models.  Was able to find the kit for the dryer, but the product description was silent about the type of washer it would work with.  But hey, I had a 50/50 chance.
Ordered the kit, it arrived in 2 days as promised.  Instructions were straight forward.  We already had the dryer on top of the washer.  We simply tilted it back, my husband held on to it, I installed the glue-on strips, then slid the dryer back about an inch past the washer, installed the plastic clips, then the steel brackets.  Perfect fit!  Key: The dryer cannot sit on top of the washer aligned at the back.  It has to be offset by an inch otherwise the brackets will not fit properly, nor hold the dryer in place.  This is on purpose, so access to the detergent/bleach/softener drawer is not hindered.  Also, if you do not have it offset, or don't have it offset enough, the brackets will not fit properly.  After I initially installed the brackets, I nudged the dryer back a hair to ensure the brackets were seated snugly, then tightened the screws completely.

I am running my first load now.  Standing in front of the stack during the spin cycle.  Since the washer is no longer on the pedestal, it makes so much less noise during the spin.  The dryer shifted about 1/16th of an inch at the right front corner.  I will just have to remember to check after each load and nudge it to back into position.  Small price to pay for the extra space.

So now I had two pedestals taking up space...i stacked them on top of each other and we put our upright freezer on top of them.  I still have the drawer storage space and now no longer have to bend over to get to the bottom shelves in the freezer.
We will close off the outside vent pipe for the dryer and purchase an indoor vent-less dryer kit.  The climate in Southwest Texas is very dry and could do with some moisture and in the winter it will generate some extra heat as the laundry room is pretty far from the furnace.
I took some photos, but have to post them from my tablet or laptop as it does not give me the option from my cell.


*I received this free in exchange for an unbiased honest review.

Makes ice cubes in six minutes
This is the newest ice maker from Ivation, the leader in portable ice makers.  I don't run out of ice cubes ever since I got this.  I just pour some water into the container and turn it on and wait six minutes, and have a new batch of ice cubes, perfectly frozen and shaped.
There are several things I love about this ice maker, starting with its small compact size.  My counter space is at a premium in my kitchen but this can sit out on the counter and look cute without taking up much room.  It is also reasonably lightweight at 24 pounds.
I usually just make a new batch of ice with this every day but when I have guests coming I let this run for twenty four hours so that I have twenty six pounds of ice which I put into my own large plastic bags to store in the freezer to make sure I don't run out, or sometimes I make double that amount to have on hand in case I have a party.
This is so simple I didn't even need to read the instructions before I first used it.  I poured water into the bucket and turned it on.  The ice cubes came out perfectly and I could see them being made through the window in the top of the lid.  What amazed me was that they didn't stick together.  Each one was perfectly formed and separate from the rest.
When I left some ice in the machine, it melted back into the reservoir and then was turned back into ice the next day when I made more ice.  There is a drain on the bottom to let out water that is unused or the machine can be tilted to pour it out
Even though this is so compact and easy to use, it has alerts to let you know when the water level is too low, and also lets you know when the ice bucket is full.  It shut itself off when it was  finished making a bucket of ice.
Pros:
LED buttons to turn it on and off
Alerts for when it needs water and when it is finished making ice
Makes 26.5 pounds of ice in 24 hours
Only about 14 X 13 X 10 inches
See through window to watch the ice being made
Comes with a removable water tank, ice scoop and user manual

I love this ice maker and will never again run out of ice, nor will I have to buy ice at the store.


UPDATE: August 29, 2016 -- bumped my rating back up from 3-stars to 5 after Kalamera sent me a replacement control board that fixes the problem where the temp would reset to factory default (62 degrees) after a power interruption.  Changing out the board was simple and took less than 10 minutes. I haven't experienced an actual power outage with the new board, but tested it by unplugging the power cord, then plugging it back in.  When unit came back on, temp setting was the same as before, so it seems to have fixed the problem.

Also, after 4-months of use, I've found that beverages stay more evenly cold if I don't try to pack the fridge to capacity.  I've removed several of the shelves so that all of the cans stand upright, and I make sure that the interior fans in the back are not blocked.  Plus, I keep a little space between each can to help with the cold air circulation.  I've given up some capacity (60 beers will have to do!), but all of this has helped performance.

UPDATE: June 4, 2016 -- took off 2-stars after discovering that after a power outage, the thermostat resets to its default setting, which is 62 degrees.  We had a very brief power interruption (just a second or 2) overnight and discovered later the next evening when we were having a party that everything in the fridge had become warm.  I contacted Kalamera support and confirmed that this is normal, i.e., the way it was engineered.

We received this item a week ago but just got it up and running. So far so good. Arrived well-packaged and protected, so no issues with damage. Installation was a little tricky because of the close tolerances of our space.  The power cord plug is straight and needed about 3" of clearance from the back wall to allow for the part of the plug that extended from the wall outlet + the space needed to allow for the cord to make a bend.  I think they should make this with a flat, offset plug to allow for tight installations. The compressor itself is very quiet but we're getting some minor rattling noise - probably vibration between the cans and metal shelving.  The temperature controls are accurate and do get the beverages cold, which is why we bought this model. Shelves can easily be removed to allow for room to stand up taller cans or bottles. The bottom shelf is shorter than the rest; we are using it to hold 16 (.5 liter) bottles of water.  This is a heavy duty machine that we expect (and hope!) will last for many years.


First off, only a four star review due to the hood coming with a couple of small dents in it.  Not enough to return, I was able to straighten them out, but it looks like they happened at the Broan factory, since the dents were only evident after the hood was removed from the shipping box.

Now to the review.  This was a replacement hood for another Broan hood, that had decided to no longer illuminate.  This hood's mounting holes were in the exact same spot as the old hood, that older hood being 15 years old or so.  This meant that mounting the hood was easy as could be.

I followed the directions, including shutting off the power at the breaker box.  The entire installation took less than 30 minutes, and only that long because I kept going back to the instructions believing it was too easy and I must have missed a step.  Nope, it was just that easy to install.

Now I must mention that I mounted this as ductless, since I don't have a duct running to the outside, so that may have contributed to the ease of installation.  However the instruction look comprehensive enough so that you'll have all the information you need.

As far as the lights, while the instructions say a PAR20, max 50W halogen bulb is usable, I put in 2 35 watt bulbs.  The light is still extremely bright.  When I use the low setting on the lights, there is an initial flickering effect which ceases after just a very few seconds, and does not seem to be an issue.

The fan is extremely quiet, even on the high speed setting.  It seems to do the job, so no complaints there.  Installing the two carbon inserts (required for ductless use) was easy.  I bought the inserts available here on Amazon.

The hood does seem to extend out about 2 inches or so further than the old hood it replaced, but that is not a problem.  My wife likes the curved look of the thing, and is pleased with the hood.  That's the most important thing.  Personally I could not care less, but if Mama's happy, everybody's happy.

As far as the price, I found the same exact range hood for sale at a home center for $80 more.  And all of those available at my local Lowes either had open boxes or severely smashed boxes.

Bottom line:  Good value, good price, easy installation.  Go ahead, make the purchase and stop driving yourself crazy researching the things.


I consider this fridge a glorified hotel bar fridge. It is poorly designed, inefficient, poor quality, noisey and extremely overpriced.
In this day and age you would expect all fridges to be frost free, but this one is not. Being a "semi-frost free" fridge, ice and frost will form on the back of the fridge. A water trap/drain on the back wall takes up valuable space in this already tiny and shallow fridge. This also contributes to the inconsistant temperture inside the fridge which you can really tell with highly perishable foods -- foods in the back is more humid (often wet) and cold or frozen while the space in the front is not cold enough, you can never find a perfect temperture setting for this fridge.

For being such a small fridge you would think that the interior would be smartly and efficiently designed to maximize space, but it is obvious that no thought was put into its design. I threw away the wine rack as it took up a good chunk of interior space.

Other faults of this fridge:
- The egg tray holds only 10 eggs, not a dozen! It must be designed by an idiot.
- The fridge is noisey and makes really weird sounds.
- There is no separate temperture setting for the freezer.
- There is no light in the freezer.
- The plastic drawers are not on a track, so you could easily pull it too far and have a drawer of fruits or vegetables fall out of the fridge.
- The ice tray is built into a shelf in the fridge and could not be replaced with an ice tray that makes proper sized ice cubes.
- The fridge often generates an odd suction or back-pressure, so opening the door requires a lot of effort to open it sometimes to the point it will rock the fridge and the contents inside.
- This is not a European appliance which I was led to believe. My model was made in Turkey.
- There is only three height adjustments for the two shelves in the door, the middle one is useless (creates very little room for the lower shelf), so essentially you have no choice on positioning the shelves in the door.

I would recommend any name brand fridge over Blomberg, even the popular American brands are much better built and designed for much less. I have wasted a lot of fresh food from using this fridge and will continue to do so simply because of its poor design and refrigeration. I looked up the reviews on Blomberg fridges on Consumer Reports and not surprisingly it came in last over the other brands and I experienced all of the problems that they mentioned.


Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.

So enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.

1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.
2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.
3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.
4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).
5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.
6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.


The only bad thing I have to say about this washer is that I wish I had bought the next size up.  You can only fit 2 pairs of adult-size jeans -OR- 2 large, heavy bath-towels and have the machine operate optimally.  I tried 3 pairs of jeans as a test, and the washing action was too impeded to clean them effectively.  However, for socks, undergarments, light blouses, light towels, etc, it's FANTASTIC.  It gets them cleaner than the agitator washers I'm used to using, especially if you use the "Heavy" wash cycle.  Another plus is that it's gentle enough to wash some of my "hand-wash only" clothing.
I am extremely happy that I purchased it.  I live in a mobile home, and it fit easily through my doorways, hooked up flawlessly, and doesn't thrash or bounce around as it washes (which was a big concern given my uneven floors and the small size.)  For the most part, it handles my weekly needs, though I will still need to use the laundromat for large loads.  (Blankets, for example.)  For me, that's only every other month or so.
It came with nearly everything needed to connect it.  However, if you are hooking it up to traditional laundry-room outlets, where hot-water and cold-water are seperate lines, you will need to buy a "Y" adapter.  I found one easy enough at a local hardware store.  This allowed me to hook the washer up permanently, although I need to manually open the lines to get the desired water temperature.  I experimented a bit with the faucets and marked the handles so I know how far to turn them to get "cold", "warm" or "hot".  Also, since I don't expect to disconnect the lines anytime soon, I bought plumbing tape to use around the threads to help seal the connection.
As for the "assembly," some people have posted that they put the convex end of the plate toward the floor (bulging side closest to the floor.)  I used to write technical manuals, and the directions on the plate seem to suggest that it be installed with the concave side facing the floor, though the wording is slightly ambiguous.  However, I installed it concave side facing the floor, and it works just fine.  I am unsure as to why they don't ship it with the plate already installed, it would prevent confusion.


Just got this in yesterday, haven't got to use the cleaning system as of yet, but it looks like it will do a bang up job. product is exactly as advertised.

I live in an home built in the 40's, When they decided to put the washer and dryer in they put them in the center of the house. They put the vent in the wall at floor level put and 90ed it down and then immediately 90ed it to run half the width of the house (about 12 feet).The vent was plugged when I moved in the house, so I just put Pantie hose on the end of the hose. Last year I tried to clean it out with a homemade tool, I thought I had it clean and run the dryer through the summer (and burned up my dryer). When I hooked up my dryer this year It just pressured up. I tried and tried to clean it out with my home made equipment, but had only minimal success. I saw this tool on Amazon and grabbed it. I have used and abused this tool, I used it in ways that the instructions clearly state not to. I did do some damage to the tool (not beyond repair or usefulness). When the damage occurred I was clearly abusing the tool. I had brought out about a plastic grocery bag of trashy lint when the brush quit working. the lint had been wet and compressed to almost a cardboard consistency. I put the obstruction remover on and connected it to the drill (against manufactures instructions) I ran it until it hung up, removed it and run the brush again. I would get about three passes with the brush and start all over again. This tool removed all of the crap in that galvanised steel vent tube.

a few other tricks if you have a stubborn plug like mine. The instructions state that you should run in and out one rod at a time. If you try to pull this out with the drill running and without dismantling the rod you will have a twisted pretzel on your hands. This did not damage the rod though. also putting to much pressure on the rod will disfigure the rod. I did put a twist in one link of rod, however it did not slow down its performance. If you need to run the tool in and out do so without the drill, slide the tool in to the clog and run it turn the drill off and pull out by hand. This worked great for me. I also bent the obstruction remover, not beyond repair and it still took more abuse.

If you have a dryer vent that is plugged with regular old soft lint it would be no match for this tool. If used as recommended it should last for many years.

I would definitely recommend this tool to any one.


Okay, I'm calling these ice cubes, but they aren't really cubes. The ice is formed over rods & take the form of a cylinder with a round base & a center hole. A small cube measures about 1" x 1" x 1". The 'walls of the cylinder are about 1/4" thick. I haven't made the large size yet.

Very easy to use!
Be sure to clean it before first use.
To clean inside use water only, do not use any cleaning product.  I threw away the first 4 or 5 batches of ice too.  I figured I wasn't able to clean any of the tubing (if there is tubing) so decided that the first few batches of ice cleaned it for me.

Pour water to the MAX line which is a little hard to see so don't overfill it.  The ice maker holds a maximum of 80 oz water.  Tap water is fine.
Choose small or large ice, press start.

I chose small cubes the first time because I thought the process would be faster. It seemed to take forever to make the first group, but actually it was around 8 - 10 minutes. The first few groups of cubes were thin, but after a while everything must've gotten colder & the walls of the cubes were much thicker & the whole ice making process went a little faster.

The ice maker makes 9 cubes at a time.
It does not keep the ice cold. When the cubes melt, the water is used to make more.
It's recommended to empty old water & use fresh  every 24 hours to prevent bacteria, etc. The unit has a drain plug on the bottom.

The process isn't as quick as I thought it would be. It took about an hour to get enough cubes to turn hot tea into a glass of ice tea.  (Just remembered I threw a few of the first batches away so it might not have taken an hour if those weren't tossed)

When the ice basket gets full, the ice maker automatically stops making ice & the 'Ice Box Full Indicator'  lights up. Many times the ice box/basket isn't full, but the ice cubes need to be moved out of the way so another group can be pushed into the basket.

Control Panel Indicators:
Start/Standby
Large Cube Button
Small Cube Button
Water Low Indicator
Ice Box Full Indicator

The ice maker comes with a Scoop & User Manual.

It's simple to use & quick to set-up. About the size of a breadmaker, it measures approximately 9.5 " wide x 14" long x 13" high.

It's working great. Our family likes it.  I'll update my review if my opinion changes.

Review Sample Provided


The product arrived timely - actually before I expected it. That's a PLUS. As shared in previous reveiws, I was expecting the first few batches of ice to have a plastic taste but that diminished after 5-6 batches. The large ice cubes are perfect size for drinks and I use about 2 Britta pitcher fills for 2 gallon bags of ice to store in the freezer. This unit is NOT a freezer, as indicated in previous posts. The only downside to this machine is when the water is filling for the next freeze, the unit makes a screeching noise which lasts for 2-3 minutes then stops. I banged it on the side and it stopped temporarily but that's not the solution! LOL It's tolerable but annoying since I work from home and the ice maker is within earshot. This unit looks good on my cabinet and is about the size I expected even though dimensions aren't available on Amazon. You have to look it up elsewhere. It's about 12" wide, 14" deep and 14" tall. It weighs in around 20 lbs or so. Except for the screeching noise, I would highly recommend this unit.
*UPDATE* It's now March 4th,2011, and the little ice maker is truckin' along. I am very happy with my purchase. The screeching is not as loud - maybe with time it will stop? ~SMILE~
*UPDATE* July 1,2011. Last week, it made one LOUD pathetic SQUAWK, but kept working and the screeching has stopped! YAY! Makes you scratch your head and go "hmmmmm". I make ice about once a week and store in gallon baggies for the week - quite convenient. So far, so good.
*****I updated from a 4 to a 5 star after the screech stopped.
*UPDATE* Well, it's December 23, 2012 and we are still plugging along! The screeching never returned and this product continues to perform very well. It if went "belly-up" tomorrow, I would buy another of the same brand as I give it a pretty good workout on a regular basis and am pleased that it's still working.
*UPDATE* November 22, 2014. Unfortunately, my unit went "belly up" in July, so I purchased another on sale @ local retailer, deciding to go less expensive and see if this one lasts as long. I was very happy while this one was working, and still highly recommend this product.


Our over the range Microwave died and we decided to replace with a powerful range hood as we do a lot of stir fry cooking and large amount of smoke is generated.  Having read the reviews both positive and negative here, I was in 2 minds to buy this product.  After thinking it over for a long time, I finally made the purchase.  The price was right and the product was promptly shipped.  I inspected the box soon as it arrived and I did not see any significant damage to the box.  I proceeded to open the box carefully.  As I started taking the parts out, I noticed that the bag of fasteners was open and all the screws were scattered at the bottom.  There are lots of screws provided with this range hood and you end up with lots of extras.  I assume it is for different ways to mount this product.  I went to Home Depot to look for the metal clamp to secure the flexible duct which comes with the unit to the range hood outlet.  The clamps are not provided with the unit.  Alternatively you could use 3M Metal tape to secure them. The outlet is 8" which at Home Depot I was told was unusual for homes and I was not able to find the clamps.  I first plugged the range hood in and ran it at different settings to make sure there was no issue.  It ran fine at all the settings and so I proceeded with the installation.  I drew a template using cardboard so I could mark the corresponding mounting locations on the bottom of my cabinet and pre-drilled all the screw mounting holes.  The 30" range hood is heavy.  Installation is definitely a 2 person or 3 person job though depending on the mounting location and how much space you get around it to get a good hold.  You may also need to employ a cabinet lift jack or a vehicle floor jack.  We had to go through and try different ways to get it in there but finally we have been able to mount it.  Some of the videos on Youtube will help.  The manual which comes with the unit is woefully inadequate.  It needs clearer pictures and a complete rewrite.  The access to the screw holes is tricky.  Also if space permits, it would be best to put the screws in first and then lining up the screw head with the large holes, lift the hood in and slide it back in place and then tighten the screws.  If your home is not setup to vent outside and you are not too handy, you may need to use professional help.


When looking to replace my washing machine, I started out looking at the traditional top loaders.  The cheap ones were around $300 and more standard quality ones around $400, and I saw some that were another $100 or more beyond that.  When the salesman asked me about front load washers, I didn't give it much thought because they tend to be more pricey and out of my range.  In fact, the first one he showed me was about $700.  When I asked him what the cheaper ones cost, he showed me the Frigidaire FTF2140FS for $550, and seeing as they had $100 off deal, it was only slightly more than the standard top loader.  So I took him up on the deal, ultimately paying $475 after tax, and so far I'm very happy with its performance.

I usually have two or three people who rent rooms in my house.  The old washer took 40 gallons of water per load.  The Frigidaire takes just 15 gallons!  So right off the bat I'm going to be saving a lot on my water bill, as well as a few bucks on electricity as this washer takes less of that to operate, too.

The controls are pretty simple to figure out.  Ten cycles, four temperature settings, you can set how fast you want the basket to spin, and there's a few extra options, too.  Shut the door, hit start, and let it go.  Just be sure to remember that you must use HE (High Efficiency) detergent.

The wash is very quiet and the spin dry sucks the water right out of the clothes.  I can dry my stuff in half the time!

I did encounter one problem twice.  When washing my bed sheets and blankets, I heard a beeping noise.  The washer was stopped and I thought it was done, but it turns out my sheets were still soaked.  I looked at the manual and apparently if the load in the washer basket becomes uneven, it won't spin (that's why it was beeping).  So I just pushed the blankets a few times, shut the door, and on the cycle dial there's an option for Final Spin, which is just that, the final spin dry.  So I selected that, hit start, and it worked both times.  I haven't had that problem with any other load of laundry before or after that.

This was my first foray into the world of front load washers and so far I'm very pleased with the results!  It's quiet, efficient, my clothes are clean and smell fresh, and most important of all to me, it isn't tearing my clothes like my old washer was.  And for the price I got it at, it's a great value!


I've only had this unit (WRT359SFYW) for a few days, so I can't comment with much experience on how it works in day-to-day use.  So far it's keeping my frozen stuff frozen and my cold stuff cold, so two stars for that.  And it's not expensive.

The biggest drawback is that this fridge is quite loud.  I know that excessive noise is a common complaint with modern refrigerators, and I have no way to directly compare the noise from this model from others.  But this model is noticeably louder than the cheap 2002 Frigidaire it replaced, which was not exactly quiet in it's own right.  With my open floorplan house (kitchen/dining area open to the living room) the noise from this fridge is very noticeable in the living room, 30 feet away.  In the dining area, the noise dominates the room.  The manufacturers have got to figure out ways to muffle these things.  I'd return it in a second if I had a reliable way to find a quiet model, but I'm afraid they will just tell me "they're all like that".

In the refrigeration section, the shelves are too close together to hold tall items, even at maximum spacing.  This is also a common issue with many top freezer refrigerators I look at--the whole refrigeration section is just too short in height.  It would be better if this fridge was taller or wider and was not as deep, as space way in the back is hard to use, but more height is always welcome.  This unit is so deep it doesn't fit too well in the standard-size fridge bay in my home.

I'll also note that many models in this price range include an icemaker as standard, where this one does not.  Also, this model does not have separate temperature controls for the freezer section and the refrigeration section.  And a one-year warranty?  These are supposed to be "durable goods".  It seems like many manufacturers have cut production cost and quality on refrigerators to the absolute bare minimum.

Edit/Update: I've had this unit for three months now.  When it was delivered, it was not quite centered in my kitchen's refrigerator nook, but I didn't care enough to try to reposition it until now.  Tonight I gently pulled the unit out and moved it back so it would be centered.  As I'm rolling it back into position I hear a "snap" and the fridge lurches to one side.  One of the rear wheels has broken or collapsed.  Seriously?


We bought this samsung refrigerator which had been nothing but trouble. We have owned it 4 years maybe, and this is the 2nd motor we have had to buy. The first, we tried to get Samsung to fix (it was within a few months of buying it new from Lowes). They said it would take weeks and be a $50 service call, minimum...what??? First, we need cold food, second, we just paid for the fridge, now you want to charge us more?? Needless to say, this will be our last Samsung anything, but we set about fixing it ourselves. My husband researched and YouTubed. We bought this motor, let it defrost a few days (this pushes the cold air around the fridge portion. The freezer still worked perfect, and the fridge wasn't NOT working, it just wasn't very cold because the cold air wasn't circulating). He took off the back panel, and replaced the motor with this one. I believe the first time, he had to replace the fan too, as it was glued to the motor. This time (this was our SECOND motor...in FOUR years), since we didn't glue our motor to the fan, we didn't need to replace the fan. I'm not sure if all fans are glued or we were just lucky... anyway, motor replacement is pretty straightforward once you have the back panel of the fridge side off. Motor works great, the problem is not with the motor. I highly recommend this motor. The problem is with the fridge itself. We learned after the second motor that the unit needs can NOT be level. It has to be leaning forward. For us, we couldn't even get the back legs long enough to solve our problem. We had to jam small pieces of wood under the back legs to make it lean forward just enough to keep ANY moisture from getting to the back of the fridge, which will collect on the motor and freeze, killing the motor over time. This will happen if it is level, or even leaning slightly forward. We had to make the angle great enough that force is needed to close the fridge because it is leaning forward (not enough to notice with the eye or move items in the fridge, but the door will not close because of the angle unless it is purposeful. And this couldn't be achieved with just the legs it came with. We also had to shave down our cabinets as this fridge already is so tall and barely fit). Anyway, great motor, if you are having problems with the RS265TDRS (or possibly other models, since they seem to not know how to build a refrigerator or admit mistakes and recall/fix these mistakes), this motor will get your refrigerator circulating air again and get your food cold again at a great price with quick delivery.


First I just want to say that we've had our washer & dryer(LG DLE2516W) for over a year and have never had 1 single problem.

Once my husband and I knew we were having twins we decided it would be best to get a new washer/dryer since the one we had did not hold many clothes to wash & drying normally took at least 2 hours! It was one of the connected over/unders, our "laundry room" is tiny and side by side would not fit.

The search began for an affordable but good quality washer/dryer. After reading many reviews about tons of different washer/dryers I found this one had the best reviews for the affordable price range we were looking at. Do an online search and you will find more positive reviews.

We bought ours locally on sale and the delivery men set it up in no time. They did NOT take the time to make sure it was level so it did make a lot of noise & shake at first(we have ours stacked) but my husband was able to easily level it and no more shaking or noise.

Since I had read that this washer(as well as many other front loaders) begin to stink after a while we decided to always leave the door open when we are not using it. This does NOT create any sort of problem or get in the way at all. We have NEVER had any stinky washer or clothes!! Even the times when I have forgotten to take the clothes out and they get stinky, one normal wash and everything is smelling clean again.

This says you have to use special detergent and I can tell you that we have NEVER used special detergent and have NEVER had any problems, no stink, no over suds, nothing. We've used a bunch of different brands as well, Era, All, Dreft, etc.

As you can imagine with twins sometimes we have a TON of laundry. I can have a big basket overflowing with clothes and all of it fits and then some. It doesn't look like the washer would be that big but it fits a ton of clothes. Takes what normally would be several loads of laundry and combines them into 1. I use Dreft(or generic Dreft) and fabric softener and the clothes come out smelling SO good always. Even if my girls have gotten their clothes exceptionally messy with food, even if I forget to put on the 'stain' cycle or forget to spray on stain remover, all of their clothes normally come out completely clean-no stains. Not always because some things tend to stain no matter what if you don't immediatly wash them but even if there is a stain, their clothes are still always clean.

We LOVE it. It does a great job!! And as someone who does a TON of laundry & used to work at a Laundry Mat, I am a good judge of washers!


Remove two screws from the rear of top cover.
Slide top back about an inch and lift up, set aside. Remove one control panel screw left side as viewed from back. Phillips
Remove soap drawer by pushing down release tab.
Remove control panel by easing it out if plastic clips, being nice to it is not required as it's pretty sturdy.
Remove drum seal retaining ring. Thin plastic putty knife.
Remove drain door and inside plastic housing. Phillips
Remove front panel screw that is behind the plastic housing. Phillips
Remove the screws from the top of the front panel. 1/4" nut driver or Phillips
Tilt forward about a quarter and disconnect the door switch jack
Tilt panel past 45 degrees and lift off.
Remove the hoses. Spring clip pliers.
You might get some water here.
Remove the wires from each of the pumps, take a picture if your memory sucks.
There are now 3 10mm bolts holding the pump assembly bracket down. Two front one back. Feel around for them, you can't see them.
Pull the assembly out, loosen assembly from bracket, no need to completely remove it.
Replace one or both pump motors, tighten to bracket, reinstall, put the wires and tubes back on.
Set front panel back in at an angle, start to close it up and plug your door switch back in.
Pull the washer boot out and inside the panel.
Replace all the screws, the plastic housing and the drain cover.
Fit the tub gasket onto the door panel and seat it uniformly.
Put the retaining spring ring around the gasket.
This part is tricky. I bought a cheap pair of brake spring pliers, heated up one end and bent the tip backwards then ground both prongs to the spring end sizes. Hey, worked for me. Work the ring up both sides as far as you can and put your pliers on, expand the spring and let it snap back.
I'm sure there are lots of other ways to do this including buying the 150.00 special* tool but watch you don't tear the drum gasket. (goes without saying) replace the control panel, put that screw back in it, slide the top on, replace the two screws, and marvel at how you got through this without ever unplugging or closing the water valves. Or...you could remember to unplug and valve off and save your free pass at life for another day.
So yeah, the parts fit and the whole repair will take you 20 minutes or so if you don't go making custom tools.
Hope this helps someone.


Overall Review:

I've had this EdgeStar washer/dryer combo for a year and decided it was time to write a review about it that hopefully answers some of the questions/concerns others have had about this product.

The first thing you have to remember is this solution is a niche solution and not a direct replacement for a stand alone full-size washer and dryer.  This runs of 120v, doesn't require a dryer vent, fits under a cabinet, and is both a washer and dryer in one unit.  The quote I had for plumbing my condo for a full-size washer and dryer was about $5,000 compared to the cost of one of these units.  So if plumbing, electric, space, or a dryer vent are issues then this might be a good solution for you.

Yes, it takes longer to dry because its 120v. Yes the capacity is smaller than a normal unit but again see the last paragraph.

A full cotton/normal wash cycle and dry is about 3 hours. It isn't that big of a deal with a little planning.  I can kick a cycle off before I leave for work and get 1-2 cycles in at night.

In terms of clothes being wet after a cycle all I can say is that hasn't been my experience.  Yes if I pre-soak a towel or two and then throw them in wet it will take a few dry cycles.  However, if I load the machine up about 3/4 full and let it run then everything comes out almost completely dry.  If there is a little moisture left it dissipates quickly.

Even if you don't add a dry cycle (you have to specify otherwise it just washes) the clothes are a little damp but not soaking wet.  You could hang them and they would dry quickly.

I will say that for 1-2 people in a household this is probably adequate but if you have a family you'd have to be running this unit 24/7 to keep up if you're washing and drying with it.

The big draw to me was the cost savings over plumbing/buying full size units, I can wash almost everything, and I don't have to constantly run back and forth to the laundry center on the property.

Install Notes:

Be aware that many plumbers I found were not familiar with this style of unit and were very apprehensive about installing it so I ended up doing most of the install work myself.

For my install I did a tee off my sink's hot and cold water line and ran them into a traditional washing machine outlet box.

The output hose is the same as a dishwasher hose.  My dishwasher ran into the disposal so I added what is called a tailpiece pipe for this to drain into.

Once the plumbing install is done everything else is easy.  The electrical cord is a standard 120v so no issues there.


Update: 2 weeks later. Still not resolved by samsung.

I bought this 4 months ago. My wife and I really like it for the most part. We have them stacked with the dryer on top.  It has good features, but that is where it stops. I now regret purchasing it.

It died on us after only 4 months. I hit the power button and it lit up and then the lights went off and never came back on again. Dead. Turns out the main and secondary control board is broken. This is not even a wear item!

 2 chat sessions and 3 phone calls. Honestly, I will never buy a Samsung appliance again. They customer service is awful. They are really bad at training their employees, every time I called I received a different answer.

After the first phone call they said they were going to file a repair claim. Then they called an hour later, which I missed and they sent me an email. The email had a link to check to make sure it was plugged in and it had power. At the bottom of the email it said the claim was being closed. Are you serious! They were going to close the claim without even knowing if it fixed.

Every time I called I gave them the claim number, and they never read any of the notes from the previous discussions. I had to repeat myself every time. I have spent about 2 hours on the phone with them. At the end of the last phone call the had written down the wrong issue, the wrote that it wouldn't turn off.

Finally I got a service company to contact me, and they were rude. They told me I would have to unstack the washer and dryer or they wouldn't come out. So they expect me to lift a dryer off the washer and do their job. When they installed it they stacked it.  I was then told to hire a moving company to do it. WOW.

So as of right now I am waiting for different repair company to call me to schedule a repair and we are running out of cloths and having to line dry everything.  I will try to update if it gets repaired.

The first company that was going to perform the repairs was a D rated company by the BBB. The 2nd company has 14 reviews and 75% of them are terrible.

I am a contractor and I am telling all my clients and friends to avoid Samsung appliances. They should stick to TVs and phones. We are renovating our kitchen soon and will not be buying and Samsung appliances and my friend is now canceling his order for his new kitchen.


These were a perfect fit for my Jenn-Air dual fuel, five-burner range / oven. I could have given them a five star rating because they are exactly like the original knobs. I could have have given them a -3 star rating (had that been a possibility) for the exact same reason. These knobs, as are the original, are junk. I agree with every reviewer who has said the same thing and asked the same burning question: Oh why oh why on such an otherwise fine stove did you have to make the burner knobs out of cheap (insert expletive of choice) plastic? And like many other reviewers, I searched in vain for a metal equivalent. You would think some entrepreneur with a 3D printer making metal parts for the automobile industry who had some down time would step up and make a few dollars on the side. But no. Oh well....

These knobs arrived promptly in pristine condition and were the exact replacement I needed. I can't in good conscience fault the seller for providing the only available (to the best of my knowledge) replacement part. So... four stars, leaving off one star in meaningless protest.

Now for some USEFUL information... Some reviewers mentioned that the knobs didn't fit because of a metal insert that prevented insertion onto the shaft on the stove top. It is quite possible that the metal insert from the broken original knob is still on the shaft on the stove top. When the plastic breaks, that metal "D" shaped insert almost always stays on the shaft as it is a snug fit. This piece is easily remove using common pliers, pulling gently, straight up. Also, I have discovered a way to fix the broken plastic shaft on the knob. I first make sure that the metal "D" shaped insert isn't still in the knob (it's ALWAYS remained on the shaft on the stove top) and then I simply superglue the broken bits together. Not having a clamp small enough to hold the parts together firmly, I use needle nosed pliers to hold the parts together for a precise amount of time, measured by whistling my alma mater's fight song 17 times. Finally, I reinforce the plastic shaft with a very small cable tie (aka zip tie). Viola! I've done this to the four out of five knobs that have broken, thank you very much Jenn-Air. (I am an unfathomable abyss of self righteous sarcasm. Please forgive me.) I plan on holding all five replacement knobs in reserve for when my jury rigged repairs inevitably fail, though it has been well over two years since the first knob broke. I hope this has been helpful.


Yes this review is about the D110 compact dryer also known as the Avanti compact Dryer

But, FIRST OFF: I had the Haier Compact Washer and Dryer for a long time. Even though I went through 3 washers, the Haier dryer lasted through all those for about 3 years. For the price I was happy with that. NOW I had to replace it finally because the bearings must have went bad and started grinding.

SO what do I see? Oh look it has a little window and for some reason the appeal of the dial on this Avanti Dryer  drew me to it. I found it from a seller fulfilled by Amazon and bought ti for within a few dollars of what it would have costs to buy another Haier...  After all I had no problems with the Haier dryer before but that could have been a fluke because I wore the washers out. And other people had problems with the Haier dryers so  I wasn't brand loyal or anything. (A penny will kill a Haier compact washing machine left in a pocket)

Anyway long story short. I really liked the appearance of this one this here Avanti compared to the Haier  and as for the reviews who talks about the smell of hot plastic I didn't smell that at all.

I did notice it was harder to mount and the vent coming out of the back is smaller then standard so my dryer exhaust hose was too big and had to be rigged up to work. To those of you not venting these dryers,  your doing it wrong. This and the haier have to be vented....  Period.

Anyway finally I get it up and turn it on awful squeak and grind loud as the one I just set o the curb the day before this one arrived.  God why.. I wanted it to work so bad.. But it didn't and I read the reviews about taking the back off and finding belts and pulleys loose but you know what, I shouldn't have to do that or look for that in a new  A BRAND NEW APPLIANCE. I boxed it up and sent it back and am about to buy  another Haier if nothing else to hide the big hole in my appliance wall where I threw the old one away and now returning this one..  Again, I wanted it to work so bad. It is really attractive  but it is cheap junk  prettied up on the outside junk and plastic on the inside. ...

I returned it with ease to Amazon and got a refund fast so now I can buy the next one.

Happpy with Amazon, BUT Sad about the fools gold product....


Since it was delivered and set up it makes extremely loud fan noises from the Ice bin Compartment. Right away I called GE cares and they DID NOT Care at all, at first the wanted to debate with me that the new eco-efficient fridges like this one are noisier so they are better on the environment. First of all I do not believe in AL GORES pseudo-Science, second of all I will gladly pay a higher energy bill for a quiet fridge! After debating with the lady on the phone she agreed to send a tech 10 days later.

9 days later the Tech calls me on the phone and asks what the problems are. I repeated to him what I repeated to the GE Cares lady. He says ok I have to order fans for that and hangs up without any further communication. The next day I waited around all day and no Tech, so I called the GE Cares # again, and am told that the tech has to reschedule because he doesn't have the parts for the fridge.... Now I'm thinking to myself, how does the Tech know for sure what parts he needs if he hasn't even come out to look at the fridge yet? So I get a rescheduling of one week later.

One week later, The tech finally comes out and the parts are available. He quickly looks at the fridge and realizes he has the wrong fan part, he needs a different fan part... Something he would have known if he simply came out the first time as scheduled. So now he rescheduled me for one more week away and orders a different fan. One week later "which is today... The Tech just left my house"  he shows up and the part is available, he proceeds to uninstall the fan he believes is making the noise, and after unplugging it I have to bring to his attention that the noise is still happening. He is stumped "like a deer in headlights"  Then he opens his computer and out comes a cord that he plugs into the top of the fridge.... Where was this computer last time I wonder to myself? After turning all the fans off and on, he comes to the conclusion it is a different Fan that is bad... The Ice Cabinet Fan.... which is what I told the Tech and the GE Cares lady the first times I talked to them. So now I have an appointment scheduled for one more week from today and the noise is still happening and GE is horrible! I will now do a search on the internet to research LEMON LAWS of Fridges!


This is a very poor quality stove.

It "looks" nice.  But it has shoddy workmanship.  Here's the details:  My 'handyman' did a lot of sanding of drywall AFTER he installed the cabinets, counter top, and appliances (don't get me started).  So when I moved in, and before I could use the stove for the first time, I needed to fully clean the stove to get up all the sheet-rock dust so I didn't burn it when I turned the burner on, and then inhale the burn particles.  After vacuuming up the dust, I then took a wet paper towel to get up the last of it, after first removing the burner coil, and the collector pan, and promptly sliced my finger off.  Okay, that's an exaggeration, but seriously, the sheet metal edge for the burner coil hole was razor sharp.  By the time I finished cleaning it, I had cut my fingers 4 times, 3 on the thumb and 1 on the pinky.  Seriously razor sharp.  I am nearly 60 years old and have cleaned a lot of stove tops in my life by taking the burners out and cleaning burnt debris, and I have never once sliced a finger cleaning.

Getting the burners out to clean underneath was extremely difficult.  On all 4 burners, the two prongs seemed to snag on something inside the slot they go into.  All 4 burners.  You really have to yank and jerk to get them out.  I am thinking to myself WTH?  And then when you put them back in, they do not go back in smoothly, and the burners will not lay flat.  Again, I am nearly 60 yo and have cleaned a lot of stove tops over the years, and I have never had trouble getting burners out or getting them back in.

I have not used the oven yet, but when you open the over door, the oven shelf is sauntered crooked.  The saunter seam is right in front.  Seriously?  I will add a photo later of this crooked saunter.

I am reporting this finger slicing stove top to the FDA.  I would return it if I could.  I will talk to Amazon and see if I can.  I don't want to penalize the seller.  But this stove is a piece of junk unfortunately.


DO NOT BUY. Customer support for this unit is non existent!! We have had our washer since January of 2008. Last week the washer failed to drain and the door would not unlock. Finally after playing with the control panel repeatedly and unplugging the unit and then plugging it in, the door unlocked but the clothes were sitting in a pool of dirty water which stained our white shirts and the remaining dirty water would not drain. We noticed that the only time it seemed to lock up and display a "nd" code on the display for no drain was if the washer had a couple pieces of clothes in it. Our home consist of two adults and a teenager so it is not overworked! Sometimes with one or two articles of clothes in the drum it will run all the way through completing the entire wash but NEVER with a regular load. Everytime a medium or normal load of wash is put in, it locks during the spin cycle, displays a "nd" on the electronic display, We explained this thoroughly over the phone to Amana's customer service dept and to the tech that came for the repar visit. The Service repair man came and said pump was bad and replaced it for $280, checking it by running an empty cycle through spin even though we told him it only does it when loaded. That same evening we tried to wash a load of clothes and the exact same problem occurred. We called Amana back and they said that depending on what the tech finds wrong on the repair visit Oct 10, they might charge us again for more parts!! Unbelievaable lack of service for a barely over 3 and a half year old product!! Amana's customer service department took the approach that it was out of warranty, we did not purchase an extended warranty and therefore there was nothing they would/could do. Working in Customer service myself for 28 years, I know that is not the truth as every major company that I know of has the ability to assist their customers with out of warranty repairs on a customer goodwill basis. In addition, when my GE Profile Fridge (came with the house we bought)had issues, GE agreed to pay for half the parts and labor for the repairs and they even sent a $100 check for loss of the food that spoiled DESPITE being out of warranty and that unit is older than my Amana washer. Amana simply chose to not assist a customer that has purchased a new Amana Fridge, washer and dryer in recent years.
Product is one thing, service after the sale and making an attempt to assist your loyal customers is equally important. Amana failed at both.


Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.

So enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.

1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.
2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.
3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.
4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).
5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.
6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.