This washer is ingenious and simple, and by itself, manages to wash ALL of my, and my husband's clothes, every single week. Our clothes have NEVER been so clean. I attribute that to it's simple, yet highly effective pressure system. I know it takes a bit of fumbling around at first to get this thing to working as ideally as it is intended, and I've read where other reviewers have maybe gotten fed up or didn't have the patience. I wasn't perfect at it at first. But I've perfected my method, and I now can wash five to seven loads of our clothes in under two hours (including pauses for rinsing, spin drying in our centrifugal spin dryer, and hanging). It's astounding (to my husband - I had a hunch all along, haha) just how many clothes you can wash in the thing! I don't recommend overfilling, but you truly can get away with several shirts (I'd say 3-4), a pair of jeans (my husband's over 6 foot, and wears some pretty substantial jeans), and a week's worth of boxer shorts and underthings, in ONE load.

Nowdays, I've got my method so fine-tuned that I just pile all our clothes beside our (clean) bathtub, the Sputnik 3/Wonderwash in the center, my buckets (I use two standard size buckets to alternately fill with water) on the side with the water faucet. I fill S3 with water and the little soap it requires to do its job, agitate the water briefly with my hand, toss in one load, watch the clock for a couple (and I really mean TWO here) minutes while I get a nice little arm workout cranking (if you fill the load right, it's actually not that good of an arm workout - you'll learn the right balance of clothes/water after a few trials). Release the pressure lid, being sure to unscrew almost completely, so that the next time you put it on, you'll get a nice snug fit. I remove the clothes and place them in my prepared buckets with clean water and give them a good squeezing out. I've gotten to where I really don't use the draining spout. I find it's quicker just to turn S3 over and empty the water that way, into the bathtub. But if you're not in the bathtub, obviously, you'll want to drain more neatly. Usually I replace my clean load into the S3 for a rinsing round, filling up another bucket with water as I go. I flop the wet clothes to the other side of the bathtub, and move to the next load. I continue til I'm done. It truly takes fractions of the time standard washer units take to wash clothes. Our clothes are ten times cleaner I feel, and not nearly as distressed at the end of washing. Our delicates are in heaven, and the rest of our clothes are lasting way longer, looking far newer, than they would otherwise.

I've been amazed at how clean our sheets are - and how easy it is to clean sheets with S3. We've got high threadcount sheets, and they apparently LOVE being treated with such care. They are literally shiney when they've finished drying.

[...] has the corner on this alternative to standard clothes washing and drying and bravo for them! Their customer service has treated me with impressive speed and have been very personable and professional.

My only critique of the Wonderwash is that the base is not as finely crafted as the unit itself. Mine is working fine, and it's imperative that you install all its parts correctly. However, I feel that it could be sturdier. It's not losing a single star over that though. It's an ingenious piece of equipment. I THOROUGHLY recommend it.


I bought a Wonder Washer from Laundry Alternatives, actually I have purchased two. One for a friend who also loves hers.
Regarding the SPUTNIK 3 label - there may be some grounds for confusion over the labeling, but the machine is the exact same, I had them side by side and there is no difference. When the manufacturer changes labels it does cause some confusion.
Now: You put this little machine together, and the idea is for it to spin with the crank handle using warm to hot water and a pressure-sealed top that creates pressure inside, forcing the small about of detergent into the fabric of the clothing. To me, the handle was a bit "iffy," mine came with a screw to be driven into a plastic plug instead of a metal cotter pin. Judging the weight of water plus clothing and the flexibility of the stand, I just took it right back off. If you wash very small loads with no more than one-and-a-half quarts of water, you'll be just fine with the handle. But, I still didn't mark it down for that. I fill the machine about half-full of water, temperature depending on the clothing items, state of soil, etcetera. Then, I have my uppare workout. After the machine is properly loaded and sealed, I put on my 1-pound wrist weights and turn the machine by hand for a count of about 120 - 150 complete rotations, take off the weights, insert the drain and let it drain. Once the water has mainly run out, I remove the top and turn the tub to empty the contents. Quick double rinse in cold water and the wash part it done.
**Here's where the difference comes in. This machine does EXACTLY what it says it will do, clean your clothing and fabric items quickly and simply. They never said it would wring (please - get the spelling right, we don't "ring" clothes) the items for you. I use a SPIN DRYER - makes all the difference!
The soaking, dripping items are plopped right into my "Charming Spinner," spun for a couple of minutes until the water has stopped coming from the spout and then they are ready to be hung up to dry. That's it.
CAPACITY: In my Wonder Washer, I can get one flannel queen-sized bed sheet and one pillow case at a time, meaning my bed clothing takes two cycles to get done.
OR - I can get one pair of flannel lined jeans, two underwear, and a pair of socks.
OR - Regular jeans, one pair plus 3 or 4 men shirts.
OR - One large bath towel plus two T-shirts

Any way, all this to say, I have used the Wonder Washer SOLELY for the last five months to process laundry for two people, only once using the pay washer-dryer for a comforter which is too large to wash by hand and also to large to go into the spin dryer. It has worked for me, and by my nearest calculations my initial out for the Wonder Washer washer and the spin dryer were recouped in 10 weeks.

Now I am shopping for a portable washing machine, electric-style since my new job requires me to commute and I won't have the time to do laundry by hand.

Bottom Line: To me, clothing is personal and processing laundry by hand is very satisfying. The Wonder Washer will be put away for use on weekends when I don't have a daily commute that takes time away from home where I do enjoy housework style working at home. I highly recommend it, treat it gingerly as it is a small hand powered laundry machine, and you'll get good use of it.


We bought this unit with the matching stove, dishwasher, & microwave 6 months ago at the end of November, 2010.  There was a promotion by Frigidaire to sell them, if you buy the stove and fridge they throw in the dishwasher and microwave at no cost.  That should have told me something!

I won't go into the ridiculous water dispenser that makes it nearly impossible to hit the glass since others have already described it in detail here.  Our 6 month old refrigerator just died completely!  We heard warning beeps and the display showed temperature numbers that were going up and down.  The refrigerator seemed to be holding a steady temp of 37 degrees, while the freezer went from what appeared to be zero or less, to higher than the refrigerator temp.

As it turns out, the whole unit had actually died, leaking water all over our new hardwood kitchen floors during the night and ruining them!  We tried to call the toll-free Frigidaire help desk and only got the call back later message, it is only open business hours on weekdays.  We will have to deal with getting this thing repaired and new floors installed with less than 2 weeks until we have over 50 guests here for a party.  I couldn't be more disappointed and frustrated with a major appliance.  I thought they would have figured out how to make a unit that ran and kept a steady temperature, growing up our basic fridge lasted my whole childhood.  I only hope that our repair jobs are better than others have experienced, it seems the nightmare has just begun...

Part 2 of the story - Our refrigerator was repaired two weeks ago today.  I was worried about an 8 month old refrigerator that needed so much work and so many parts replaced, but the service tech got it running...for a while.  Less than two weeks from the repair date, and the morning of my wedding, the fridge died again!

It acted the same as before, warning beeps, temperature rising in freezer and refrigerator, resetting did nothing to make it cool.  I called the repairman back who said he could come early in the afternoon, the only problem was that I WAS GETTING MARRIED AND HAVING CLOSE TO 50 GUESTS OVER TO MY HOUSE!!!!

We went to the ceremony and reception, then all of the guests arrived afterwards and were welcomed by warm beer, warm wine, no ice, and smelly warm food.  As for the tradition of saving a piece of cake in the freezer for the one-year anniversary, that's been denied us by Frigidaire!  We had to run out for ice during the party and find containers for makeshift ice buckets.

I called the local appliance store where I bought it (not amazon unfortunately) and got the same runaround as before.  It only has a one year repair warranty, so you have to call Frigidaire.  The service company (recommended by Frigidaire for warranty work) who worked on it 2 weeks ago still hasn't sent in their paperwork, so there's no record it was fixed once already!!!  Frigidaire also gave me the same runaround as before when I called them.

I can't stress enough to avoid Frigidaire products.  This pathetic excuse for a refrigerator in my kitchen is about 8 months old and has completely died twice already.  I'm sure they will want to keep fixing it until the 12 month warranty expires then tell me tough luck for the last time.  They have ruined two full fridge-loads of groceries, my kitchen floor from water leakage, my wedding and party afterwards, and my anniversary since I won't be eating frozen wedding cake!  It doesn't get any worse than this!


During my shopping process for a whole kitchen full of appliances, I noticed reviews are either penned by haters or lovers.  That makes it hard for people trying to balance cost, function and reliability, because no appliance will ever be perfect. I was just now shopping on Amazon for a new filter for our fridge and noticed this product did not get very good reviews, I mean not at all. So I have to chime in and tell everyone this refrigerator is fine!

We've had this fridge installed for 6 months now.  Two weeks after we put it in the ice maker went out. I immediately predicted gloom and doom and cited all the negative reviews we'd read here.  But the warranty repair company sent someone out immediately.  He told me this unit uses the exact same model as most other brands out there (like Jenn-Air, Thermador, Kitchenaid and GE, and all the icemaker units come from same manufacturer in China) and we just got a lemon ice maker and a gear was stripped out, which meant it wouldn't turn out the ice cubes.  That whole unit got switched out at no cost, no problem. Since then we have had no issues.

Some pros, as I see them:  the lighting inside is good, even being "not LED."  Seriously, it's a fridge not an operating room.  I really like the shelf that rotates up or down easily.  I can do that to make room for something tall below without unloading the shelf.  The doors do need to open almost all the way (like almost all side by sides) but the drawers slide in and out very smoothly.  It is consistently very cold, and I love being able to adjust the temp on the lower drawer independently.  Some weeks it holds meat at a lower temp, sometimes it's just regular stuff that's overflowed into the drawer.  Also, we had an "oops" where my young son pulled the milk carton out of the door shelf too fast, and knocked that whole shelf out onto our tile floor.  It hit pretty hard, and the silver rim came off, but it did not break or crack.  (and the silver rim popped right back on.) Thank you, Bosch, for plastic strong enough to survive young families!

Now for some minor, picky cons:  The very bottom refrigerator door shelf is useless. I think I currently have a baggie of pine nuts shoved in there, and that's really all it will hold.  And the shelves on the freezer door are a little small too.  This is a pretty compact unit!  The control panel on the outside really takes some practice.  If we ever have to do anything tricky it requires a trip to the manual drawer.  I would never, ever use that panel for the timer function.  Heaven help you if you set that thing.  It's not intuitive.  Most people who come to our house and try to use the water/ice function without a warning get their feet wet.  The water dispenser is pretty far forward.  This is a minor complaint, because you only make that mistake once, but I can see how people keep mentioning it in reviews because it is a little startling at first.  I've never met an ice dispenser that behaved all the time, and ours does just what they all do occasionally.  Crush when you've asked for cubed, spit a piece out spontaneously, etc.  Very rare but it happens.

All in all, I'm really happy with this purchase.  For a mid-price, sleek, stainless refrigerator, it's performing exactly as I'd hoped, which is to say that it does its job so well I usually don't even notice.


After much research, we retired our 1992 Kenmore dishwasher in favor of a Bosch Model# SHE55M12UC. The Kenmore was still going strong, cleaning the dishes just fine,  though noisy as from the day we bought it and a bit beat up. But, hey, it was 20 years old (and I will give it to Habitat for Humanity's Restore store and some one will use it some more years.)

We didn't wait for it to fail.  We became very interested in using less water and less gas to heat the water and a much quieter appliance, and we assumed the dishes would be cleaned as well if not better than with our Kenmore.

In all cases our expectations have been met.  It is a very economical appliance, the dishes get VERY clean (on "Auto" setting)  and, my goodness, the appliance is so quiet we really do have to listen "closely" for its work.

You can hear the water going in sometimes and can hear water going into the drain and with ear to machine, you can hear the operations (hum of the motor, etc.)  But, that's it.  If two people are in the kitchen talking normally, they drown out the machine, not the other way around.

Yes, as some people have pointed out, the capacity of the machine is less than, say, a new Kenmore. So, if you have a really big family, then maybe you should choose less quiet and more capacity. That said, we had two guests last night and the Bosch handled all four of our dinner and desert and pan and glass and coffee cup and big bowl dishes.  It may be we have to think a bit more about placement than we did with our bigger Kenmore, but that is OK for us.

Some people talk about lack of sufficient drying. I don't know what they are talking about.  When the zero on the counter comes on, open the door and the dishes are pretty dog gone dry.  (Except where concave surfaces have held "puddles" of water.

The ability to EASILY raise or lower the top rack seems really useful, as do all the various tines that are collapsible.  The two utensil baskets offer lots of versatility.

What most impresses me is the build quality and that was the reason we bought the Bosch.  During the installation you can see and feel the German engineering and the manufacturing quality done in the U.S. Without going into detail you can see HOW the quiet--47 DB--is achieved.  If this machine fails I will be surprised.

One caveat, one negative, though it is not enough for me to knock the rating from a five to a four.  If I could: 4.75.  While the Bosch cleverly channels both the electrical wiring and the hot water inlet line to the front of the machine where they are secured, I cussed at the Germans for their method of installing the plastic toe plate which is used to help quiet the machine.

I had read another review about that "blinkety blank" toe plate.  The engineering team did not take into account real life.  Again without detailing why it was such a 45 minute problem, I will give those of you who do install this machine yourself a tip:  Use masking tape to tape the 1.5" long screws (2) to the tip of your screw driver and then you will be able to insert the screws into the holes. You will know what I mean. I blinkety blanked the Germans on this part!

I have no other, but an old Kenmore, dishwasher with which to compare this Bosch.  But, as an amateur handy man, I can unequivocally say this Bosch is the real deal.

Stephen Drinkard
Sandpoint, Idaho


Bought a new dishwasher after my 10 year old GE profile started leaking. Installed myself. Some hints,when moving the dishwasher, you will have the tendency to want to grab the metal flange of the dishwasher that is sticking out. Do not do that, that part of the dishwasher is really sharp and will cut you.  Also  buy a new water line to replace the old one.  I tried to use the same water line from before, but it leaked. There is an O-ring in it and I guess it did not seal very well. The strain plate that you have to buy took me a while to find. It was called a combination connector in the hardware store I went to. What it does is clamp the cord so that if someone pulls on the cord, the stress will go to the clamp and not pull the wires out of the dishwasher.  For wiring the electrical, no soldering is required, you just push the wire into the correct place and tighten the screw down. It is a 3 phase wiring. I forget which color goes to what, but you can find that online.  Putting on the bottom grill was hard. You should align everything with a flashlight , then put the screws in.

Now to the dishwasher.  After buying it, I had a bit of buyers remorse.  The rack  is great for loading saucers and plates,but it is hard to load cups and bowls. We used to load cups on the sides of the top rack, but on the Bosch, if you do that, you can't put plates next to it, unless you have ridiculously small tea cups.  There are a lot of very narrowly spaced bars that don't work so well for big items and bowls. You can move the bars down, but if you can't nest the bowls, you really can't put many bowls in. There are some wider spaced bars for bowls on the top rack, but not many. Overall, it does not seem to hold as much as my older dishwasher because of these inefficiencies in loading bowls and cups.  I also did not like the controls that much. When you turn the on/off switch on, it immediately starts the cycle. It doesn't allow you to pick which cycle. You can change cycles after it finishes.  I'm still figuring this out, but I left it on auto mode, which seems to work.

Now the good part, this is the first dishwasher I have ever used that I can just put in really dirty dishes and it will clean them without pre-rinsing or scraping. I put in plates with stuck on cheese and pasta that I could not scrape off without a scotchbrite pad.  After the cycle, they were very clean. They recommend using Finish quantum pellets, but I was using the cascade gel I was using from my previous dishwasher and it work fine.  So this makes cleaning dishes much faster. Just wipe off anything loose particles and put the soiled dish in. I really like this about this dishwasher. Maybe all new dishwashers are like this, but I'm happy that this cleans so well.

I would give the Bosch a 5 if it had more rack space suited towards bowls and the controls weren't so fussy. However, bottom line, this dishwasher cleans better than any dishwasher I've ever used and for that, I am happy that I bought it.  Also, I was able to get a $50 credit from the utilities for this since it saves water and electricity.


I was reluctant to order this at first due to a lot of comments around the packaging of the unit and them showing up with dents and scratches. When the unit arrived the outside parcel was a bit torn. However the seller must have taken the feedback that was given and made some changes as my unit was in perfect condition without a single scratch or dent. It was double boxed. The OEM box has the unit inside with a Styrofoam shell. Then the EOM box was lined with stiff cardboard corners and wrapped in Styrofoam around that and then placed in an additional box. Only the outer box had a slight tear. Given the weight of the unit it was expected. Don't hesitate to order this unit as I'm certain it will show up in perfect condition. Even if we were to order an additional one I wouldn't be worried.

The unit itself is made of quality materials. I placed a digital thermometer inside the unit and it holds a solid 37 degrees inside. Keep in mind this is a minifridge and not a cooler. A major difference. The only complaint I have about the unit is that we have it downstairs behind our bar. Not in the bar but behind it sitting on the carpet. When placed on the carpet the door would drag the carpet and after our first basement break in party the door was left slightly open a few times because the door was difficult to shut. I tried to adjust the feet to raise the unit up but was unable to do so because the legs are not adjustable. I happen to have an extra 18X18 tile from the bathroom. I sat the unit on top of the tile and it solved the problem. The door open and shuts perfectly. Keep in mind we do not have shag carpet either. It is a medium density stainmaster carpet with standard stainmaster padding. If you plan to place this in a carpeted area do yourself a favor and go purchase an 18X18 tile.

As others have mentioned the shelves don't hold cans the best when you go to fill it as some tip from side to side when placed vertical. I removed the second from the bottom shelf to hold 4-5Liter kegs. I can hold exactly a case of beer in the bottom section which is not as deep as the others since the compressor housing is in the way. Which leaves me with the top full shelf and the very top shelf that holds them in a horizontal fashion. The horizontal shelf holds a 12 pack 6 on each side. Without the removal of a shelf this unit will not accommodate 16oz water bottles or beer bottles placed vertically. These will need to be placed on their sides unless you remove a shelf.

Overall I would give this fridge a 5 out of 5 or 10 out of 10. It servers our purposes perfectly and it looks great, and it was at a great price point. If I had to make a couple of changes or a wish list. I wish it used an LED bulb for that newer look. Additionally, I wish the light could be turned on when the door was shut since it is a glass face to showcase the drinks inside. UPDATE: Finds out there is a switch inside on the side of the light to turn it on. Check that off the lsit! Other than that it's the perfect height and the top is being used to hold our EdgeStar 5Liter Kegerator. Which places the tap at the perfect height and I am 5'10".

All in all don't hesitate to purchase this unit as I searched for several weeks and really did my homework before ordering a mini fridge for our bar when we finished the basement. I assure you that you will not find a better product at this price point.

UPDATE: Over a year later this thing is still ice cold and no issues. Look no furhter, the perfect minifridge holds true!!!


I was VERY VERY (can't quote that enough) skeptical to buy this at first. I spent an entire month comparing all portable washers, watching youtube videos, going over reviews before I settled on this one. We live on the 4th floor, fiance is pretty useless when it comes to taking laundry to the laundromat, spends $80 a month on laundry for no reason!!! I normally do laundry myself but I am 2 months from having our baby and I would have to lug the laundry down 4 (MORE LIKE 8 SINCE ITS DOUBLE STAIRS) flights of stairs with our two year old daughter, around the corner and back up. I'm on bedrest and just finally cracked when my fiance "forgot" to do laundry and our daughter had nothing to wear one day. I felt like I needed to take laundry back into my own hands to save money and to make sure we had clothes. I received this Monday, March 26, 2018, today is April 1,2018 I am not going to lie I have used this TREMENDOUSLY trying to get the clothes up that my fiance kept leaving behind telling me he thought the clothes were clean. I have done about 20 loads of clothing since the machine is so little and with no dryer I've been doing laundry very often and hanging as many clothes as I can. It's works really good, gets our clothes clean and spins really good. after I finish getting all of the laundry up I will go to only trying to use it 3 times a week or hopefully less. But with our newborn coming and the chance of a c-section, I really need this thing and can't always wait for fiance to decide when he wants to do laundry....

The machine is very small but very capable. My fiance is on the larger side weighing about 230lbs now but still wears clothes from when he was about 360lbs (yes he's come a long way). His sweatpants are very heavy so I wash them separately. My clothing I wash about 3 pants, 3 shirts and some socks and undies. I'm 5'3 and weigh about 210lbs being pregnant and all. My daughter I can wash a very decent amount due to her being small but I do sometimes do it in 2 separate loads. I try to be careful with how much I'm loading since I'm doing so many washes this week. I go by the clothing feel, How much space it takes up before the water and fabric. I have even washed my daughters bed blanket which is for a twin size bed, it was light weight so i tried it. I've done 2 towels, 2 wash cloths and our kitchen towel in one wash. Our bed sheets and blankets go to the laundromat, no question no trying.

 For the most part, I'm happy with my selection for right now. I brought warranty of course and registered the product. So far so good. I will be back to update in one month.

 UPDATE:: May 10, Its been a little over one month and I haven't slowed down my use thanks to preterm labor kicking in. Ive been working on getting everything ready for when our baby comes home. I got the magic chef 2.5 cubic dryer to help get this laundry up because hanging clothes wasn't cutting it. The washer is still up and running. I use it about 4 to 5 days out of the week, about 3 to 4 loads a day. It takes at least 2 queen size sheets just fine. So all we have to take to the laundromat are the queen size blankets. I must say I'm still happy with my decision. Being house bound for most of the day isn't fun but I can at least get it clean.


When I said that I was going to go online to buy a compact refrigerator from Amazon, several people tried to convince me that refrigerators, and all major appliances should be purchased locally. "After all," they argued, "You must see it in a showroom;  It can get crushed in shipping; Local delivery only takes a few days and is cheaper; You can negotiate a better price etc. etc." I knew better, and placed an order with my Amazon Prime Membership, that gives me 2nd day Free Shipping. The price was right, the fridge is beautiful, keeps everything cold and fresh, is so absolutely pin-drop quiet, that I checked inside periodically, to make sure that it hadn't shut off. My new SPT is better than I expected and I'm thrilled. By the way, something did go wrong: It arrived by UPS NEXT DAY OVERNIGHT, and Amazon did not charge me even one penny extra! P.S. Freezer keeps everything "Frozen Solid" including the ice cubes.

FIVE MONTH UPDATE (7/21/14): This fridge & its freezer still work so efficiently and quietly, that the two of my colleagues who lobbied the most persistently against my purchase from Amazon, have joined Amazon Prime's 30-day free trial, and each now enjoys this SPT in his own office.

TWENTY MONTH UPDATE (10/4/15): This refrigerator is still the best purchase I have ever made from Amazon, as well as the best refrigerator I have ever owned, regardless of size.  It is as good now, as it was on the day I received it.  It is very quiet, extremely efficient, and hardly ever needs defrosting.  Its freezer continues to work perfectly, and the refrigerator keeps everything, from fruit and vegetables, to meat, beverages, and dairy products fresh, and flavorful, beyond expectations. Nearly everybody in my company , who has an office, is ordered this exact refrigerator for theirs, (upon my recommendation), and, almost every one of them has either called or written me a note of thanks.

As of this date, Amazon Prime is not available for this product.  When I purchased mine from them, the price including shipping was $153.00.  In retrospect, that was a fantastic price and equally fantastic product.  Now, since Amazon Prime no longer carries this model, I see the third-party sellers have raised the price above $300.  There is a new model that is available on Amazon Prime, and which Amazon itself is selling for less than I paid for mine, almost 2 years ago.  The specifications seem to be almost the same, except that the door is pure stainless steel, instead of the black door that was standard on mine.  Considering that this model was built with the expectation of being out of sight, it really does not matter.  In my case, I put contact paper on their door, that matched the furniture piece under which it was placed, so as to be entirely unobtrusive.

 I have never been completely at ease doing business with third-party sellers, and I have memories that sustain my feelings.  If Amazon was not selling the refrigerator, when I bought it, I would have bought locally instead.  I recommend that anyone considering buying this refrigerator, first check the new model that Amazon is selling.(Link below) It is just as highly rated as mine, yet selling for less than half the price SPT RF-244SS Compact Refrigerator, Stainless, 2.4 Cubic Feet Good luck to all!


I bought the paired set. It was great up until 6-7 months of ownership. The thing kept giving an error (motor control issue). It had trouble finishing a cycle particularly spinning. The first warranty repair service (DanMarc) wow..., the guy seemed nice enough. Well, that repair failed and I also happened to find little white plastic pieces here and there. Well, 2 wks the error came back. DanMarc made it a 3 step process to give an appointment not to mention just sent their techs anyways if they were in the area. I had calls during work when the worker was at my door and I never confirmed that time or day! I switched to FTL appliance. He opened it and I found where the little pieces belonged! Yes, there were broken areas inside due to over torquing! Nice job there Danmarc! Complaint filed to BBB that day. Well, apparently now the actual motor needs to be replaced too! The backorder was 1 month plus!!! The thing sat in my bed room disassembled for more than one month!. I also called Frigidaire to complain but they only extended my parts warranty for 6 mo. I also found out there was a leak somewhere but we couldn't find it so we thought it was residue water from tilting it around. WRONG: lovely after Xmas...I saw a puddle of detergent water....yep. I call corporate again, they refused to replace this lemon, they insisted on repair despite the fact that I created a complaint file with corporate. I tried reasoning with them...cost, labor etc since it was also under warranty still....they refused to say I made perfect sense. They trained their reps well in the art of denial. I even asked off the record, if she knew she was getting constant repairs on the unit, wouldn't she be angry? She skirted the question and said "I am a consumer too so I would know I still have to follow up with another service call..." - way to save your job there! BS...you know she would've been the first to demand more than what I ask  LOL c'mon really?! STAY AWAY FRPM FRIGIDAIRE AND ELECTROLUX PRODUCTS!!!! You are gambling with your money and sanity!! If you don't believe me look at reviews for their associated products and google them too. You will find people complaining of the reliability, most likely about the motors and the backorder wait. As of today, I begin saving my dollars for a new washer....I think I will go Samsung this time.

The matching dryer I am happy to say - let's just not jinx that one. Lemme put it that way. (crossing my fingers)

UPDATE 5/1/12: Finally found the most honest and competent corp rep ever. Ms Rebecca Williams, GOD BLESS YOU! She basically was honest and smart enough to agree that a 3rd or 4th visit is not only a waste of time and money but cruel for me to go thru again! She arranged for a NEW same model to be delivered free! It's in, it's going and my fingers are crossed. I have hopes for this one! Becca...where ever you are, I sincerely wish you the best! The Corp rep before her: god forbid you are in my shoes and the same happens...I hope I am in your mind when Karma bites you in the ass!


Jan 18, 2011:  This is THE BEST washer I've ever had or used!  I LOVE it and can't say enough good about it.  I bought it in Nov 2010 so I've had it about 2 months and I do 2 or 3 loads a day with a family of 5. I researched a lot.  I subscribed to Consumer Reports to research even more.  The bottom line was that the best washers according to user reviews were this Maytag MHWE450WW and the Samsung.  I really wanted to support our U.S. economy and buy American...even though this washer is made in Germany.  The dryer is made in Ohio.  Maytag was not good several years ago but they recognized that and revamped their company and are now making commercial grade appliances built to last, like they used to be in our parents' day.  This washer is built to last and truly is commercial grade.  I went from a top loader to this front loader, and in my hours and hours and hours of reading reviews on every website I could find, I saw that people going from a top loader to front loader that uses less water, had a very hard time believing that the front loader could really wash their clothes clean because they saw through the window that the clothes were not swimming in water.  I can tell you to not let that keep you from going front loader efficient because it gets my clothes cleaner than my old top loader.  I also ready lots of people talking about how front loaders get stinky because they get moldy because the door is so airtight.  Well I haven't had one bit of a problem with that because I always open the washer door and detergent door after clothes are finished washing and leave them open.  Duh. How hard is that?  I've left clothes in it overnight and then opened the door in the morning before dashing off to work and when I get home, the clothes are still fresh as a flower and no mold or mildew. The people who have written about that must keep the door closed so it is wet in there all the time and molds. Again, I have no problem with that whatsoever.  I love the "sanitary" wash, the "power" wash, and the "whitest whites" wash.  I love the way I can wash a king size blanket, king mattress cover, king sheets and pillowcases all in one load and they come out fresh and clean.  I wash pillows and quilts and they come out great. I can wash 10 pair of men's jeans easily.  Not having the agitator in the way makes you have so much more room for clothes. I love the way it has a heater that keeps the water hot for sanitizing and whitest whites. I love the way it spins clothes so "jet engine" fast that they are pretty much dry when the washer is done. My kids and husband and I like to watch it still because it's amazing. The dryer is great too and has a steam feature. I use way, way less detergent, which is saving money. I haven't checked my water and sewer bill but it's got to be less. And my dryer runs for a much shorter time.  I have 2 teenage daughters and it has been their job to do laundry for many years, but now I find myself running in there to do laundry because it's actually fun. I know that sounds like a lie but it's not. Every time I do laundry, I come out saying, "I love my new washer and dryer".  And I'm thankful to the Good Lord that I was able to buy them.


There are features on this machine that we dearly love, but the fact that it struggles to stay balanced and get through its spin cycle is so annoying that the love is overpowered by the hate.

Very briefly:  We really like how quiet it is.  We like how little detergent we use.  We love how it treats delicates.  We love how clean it gets our clothes.  We love the sanitizing cycle.  We love the many cycle choices and the choices of settings within most cycles.

Now on to the bad and then the awful:  I think one really needs to adjust their way of thinking when moving from an older top-loading machine to these new very efficient front-loading machines.  Because they work with smaller motors and very little water, the cycles seem very, very long.  The cycles ARE very, very long:  It's a fact that we are going to have to get used to as increasing water shortages force manufacturers to produce these machines that use less and less water.  We have to start thinking around the lengthy cycles; start throwing a load in before we head to bed.  Both the washer and the dryer in this particular "Duet" have annoyingly long cycles.

Are you thinking of "front-loading" as in your experience with the front-loaders at the laundromat? Don't.  No way can they be considered in any way similar.

The reason I give it two stars and not five?  The machine unbalances way too easily.  Are you thinking about doing heavy loads?  Rugs?  Don't think of it.  Ain't no way!  I'm not familiar with other front-loaders, but this one--even though it is top-of-the-line--cannot handle my bathroom rugs.  There isn't even a cycle for "heavy" or "rugs".  There is a "bulky" cycle, but it can't handle heavy items.

Sometimes I wonder if I'm just asking too much from the washer.  But, then, I do a seemingly simple load (like yesterday when I threw in an average weight sweater with a pair of crop pants) and the machine goes into its rebalancing mode, (for an hour before I realized what was happening), and I say to myself "This should not be happening."  The directions give a lot of helpful advice, but no where near enough to help with this rebalancing issue.  Did I throw in a load that was too heavy?  Too small?  Too many different weights?  Too many different sizes?  Too many articles?  I don't know.  Is the machine unbalanced?  We don't think so:  It runs very quietly and smoothly, with no walking, creeping, or hopping around.

Obviously, I'm frustrated.  Do I buy a different front-loader?  Will it work any better?  Should I go without bathroom and throw rugs?  I don't think I should be forced to give them up. I do know that top-loaders are being slowly being discontinued for environmental concerns.  So what to do?  Anyone out there have any luck with front-loaders (for more than a few months)?  Can anyone offer constructive advice on how to properly load this machine to prevent the constant rebalancing?  The last time I looked online at the manufacturer's website, they weren't offering any helpful info, but I've not checked back recently.


We bought a Whirlpool Duet Washer in 2002 and it did work well for nine years.  When it broke I researched the problem and determined that the outer tub needed to be replaced.  That part alone costs over $400 on the internet and requires complete disassembly of the machine.  I called the Whirlpool Service number on the front of our manual to see what it might cost to have the repair work done.  I explained the situation to Brandy, who told me that our machine qualified for a program that, for a flat fee of $325.91, would pay 100% of the cost of Labor and Materials to repair the machine, no matter what was wrong with it. I was skeptical and reiterated that the cost of parts alone would probably be $500 or more.  She insisted that this program would cover all costs of repair and would include a one year warranty.  She said she could set up a repair appointment as soon as I paid the $325.91.  I just figured that Whirlpool was trying to reestablish some good will for current customers after reading so many negative reviews online about them.  I paid w/a credit card and she scheduled an appointment for two days later w/a local repair company.

The service guy showed up and spent 5 - 10 minutes looking at the washer and determined that the outer tub did indeed need to be replaced but that he needed authorization to order the parts and do the repairs.  He also said that, in this situation, the company usually just offered a cash settlement according to a formula in the contract based on the age of the appliance.  This, of course, was not what I had agreed to so I called the Company that was administering the contract and spoke to Natalie.  I explained the situation and she did a little research and said that we had a "Broken Appliance Contract" and that, yes, the contract would pay 100% of the cost of repairs, extend the warranty one year, and, if the service guy couldn't fix the washer, would pay to replace it with a comparable machine.  She also said that she spoke to Edwin at the Repair Company and that he had already ordered the parts and would be calling me to schedule the actual repair.

Two days later we get a call from the Company administering the contract and Rose said she could offer us $202.50 instead of doing the repairs because it wouldn't be cost effective for them. I demurred and asked for a supervisor.  Antoine got on the line and apologised that I might have been misinformed about the terms of the contract but I explained to him that two different people from two different companies (Whirlpool and the Contract Administration Co.) had misrepresented the terms of the contract in exactly the same way and that they were perpetrating an organized fraud.  I demanded my money back or that they repair the washer according to the verbal contract I had with Whirlpool.  He agreed to reimburse me $299 which he said was the cost of the contract and wouldn't do more than that.

I called Whirlpool and spoke to a supervisor and insisted that they reimburse the balance of $325.91 and registered a complaint about the fraud that they were running.

They promised reimbursement checks in 7 to 10 days.  If we don't receive them, they'll have to deal with American Express.

Whirlpool is running a blatant bait and switch fraud and I will never buy another Whirlpool or Maytag product again.


I can't tell you how many reviews on different brands of machines I read before I 'just did it!'  Some of the reviews about this washer and its dryer mate weren't very pleasing.  Complaints about noises, clothes being ripped and torn and etc. My review is thorough.

It's nearly October and I've been using my W&D set since February. After having used front-load Whirlpool machines for 5+ years and the standard type of machine you'd find in a rental apartment for many years previous I knew what I like and don't like. I feel that if you're ready for a step up in your laundry machines then this is the set for you.

Aside from all the rebates available from my electric company and water departments for having purchased HE machines being an extra attraction I was very excited to have my very own washer and dryer again.

As an experienced user of front-load machines - which develop a 'funky' smell in the wash tub that doesn't go away even after running white vinegar or bleach and the drips that run down the front when you add a forgotten item. The ability to wash a queen size bedspread and the storage drawer (available for an additional fee) was very nice. I wouldn't have a front load set again and not w/o the drawers - bending over for the dryer is enough.  Why do it twice?  It was 'fun' to be able to watch your clothes wash and tumble dry, but it didn't get my clothes any cleaner or drier.

The Maytag Bravos W&D set is wonderful. I am so glad I bought this set. I would encourage you to ignore the complaints that 'my children's clothes are ripped, still dirty, torn and knotted' and take a chance on this set. I have never had those things happen.

The wash tub is large and readily accepts queen size blankets. The dryer also accepts a queen size blanket/comforter.  I jest that two small children can fit into the tub for a good washin'!  The lack of center propeller is great, as there isn't anything for your clothes and blankets to get wrapped around. The dryer could also dry two small children.  All in jest of course)

So - sure I miss the expensive storage drawers under the W&D, but I DO NOT miss the funk and the accessorized (clear door inserts) doors.  I am quite fond of my Maytag Bravos W&D.  They do their jobs efficiently. My complaints about this set would be that....another color at no charge would be nice and that I miss the start delay option.

UPDATE - After having had this set of machine nearly two years...  I have a couple complaints - not too major, but worthy of noting.  1. I wish I didn't have to push a button to get all the lights on the display to turn off.  2.  The little drawer where the soaps are put in, and the lip on the machine under the lift top get gross far too frequently for me.  I feel like I'm always wiping them down.  3.  If your tired and worn out after a long day, don't do laundry., especially bed linens.  You will need to use your muscles to unwind your wash before putting them in the dryer.

As I mentioned in my review of the matching dryer: I don't recall complaining about my simple and plain big top load washer and dryer I bought from JCP 15 yrs ago.  If I could have found a set of machines I thought I'd been happy with at a lower price I would of have bought them.  (I sold them to a friend when I moved from one state to another.  She probably still has them.)


Let's face it - washing machines are not what they used to be.

The most important thing for me is something that works, that cleans my clothes and cleans them well - I don't need a bunch of fancy buttons with a bunch of fancy sort of cycles that I really won't use.

I think I have owned this Maytag washer for about, say four years, generously numbered. I purchased it, thinking it was a Maytag, a brand that used to be the Louis Vuitton of American household appliances. A few things here and there Maytag produces are still worthwhile, but most of what they make now is disappointing, to be nice. Especially their washing machines.

I liked the fact that this washer was large inside - you can get a good amount of laundry in here if you're the type of person who will fill a machine to maximum capacity. Clothes moved around with enough water between them to comfortably clean without knotting and tangling. It's the most basic machine available out there - it has hot/warm/cold water, three cycles (super/ultra, normal, and gentle), an extra rinse, so on and so forth.

However the relative simplicity, which is a relief as most washing machines - even the traditional standard top loaders - have so many buttons and temperatures and things it gets to point of being ridiculous, covers up the iffy craftsmanship. If you're looking for a reliable machine that's tough and can last 10+ years, this isn't it.

The machine is not quiet. It's not unbearably noisy, but it generates enough sound you can still hear it, especially downstairs where it is located. The spin cycle is actually pretty silent, but the general wash? Not so much. It's mainly the agitator. Though, as time went on, the machine began to do weird things - little stuff at first that bothered me, disappearing and then reappearing again until they became permanent.

First, it was the water sensors. If you used the cold a lot, then the hot water would not work properly (would switch between lukewarm/hot). Use hot a lot, the cold doesn't work, so on and so forth. I also never understood why the warm water burst out in a generous stream whilst the hot and cold would trickle out very, very slowly?

Finally, the water sensors completely broke - and it was only boiling hot water (and when I say boiling, I mean boiling) for a few months sporadically until everything just completely shut off.

And now, the agitator is broken. There are two sections to the agitator that causes the movement of the clothes within the tub - on the bottom of the machine is a slightly raised pan-sort of thing with fins that spins the clothes from downward, whilst the protruding center brings them back upwards, allowing clothes of different weights to move freely within the tub. I noticed that the agitator was making a horrible, grating sort of noise and I didn't hear the usual splish-splash of clothes moving around in the tub. Found out the bottom raised pan had completely stopped moving, and the agitator just jerks around rather sadly while the clothes float in the water. Stuff comes out semi-clean, but there's no agitation to lift away stains or work detergent through clothes.

All-in-all, I really wanted to love this machine, but, it had way too many issues. Seriously, think a bit before buying a Maytag, they aren't what they used to be.


I happily owned a Maytag for 20 years, then purchased this disappointing Whirlpool less than 3 years ago - neither with an extended warranty.  When it was installed and demonstrated, I commented that it was rather noisy but the installer assured me that it was normal for this model.  My husband and I are not home six months a year, our house sitter does maybe two small loads of laundry per week and yet the machine failed in less than three years.

In October the hot water setting stopped working.  Also I carefully sort my clothes by color, water temp, and weight i.e. delicates, towels, whites, etc. but during the wash and rinse cycles, the machine started to made sounds like it was horribly off-balance but no amount of rearranging corrected it, and each time I tried I had difficulty unlocking and restarting the cycle.  I had been noticing that my whites were not getting white even with bleach, while some other light colored clothes were coming out dingy; I chalked that up to the detergent.  Sometimes I would remove "cleaned" items that crackled, which I now know was soap residue.  When my husband called for service, the repairman quoted $400+ for repairs.

We decided to shop for a new machine.  I was disgusted when the Lowe's (where it was purchased) Appliance Sales Rep told me that today's machines are expected to last only six years, regardless whether I paid $500 or $1000!  I asked what he thought about one lasting less than three years?  His reply, "Did you purchase and extended warranty?"  I was appalled and told him that my last Maytag washer lasted 20 years; his reply, "If they lasted that long there wouldn't be an appliance department in Lowe's."  Constructively, he did suggest I go on-line and check people's reviews for this machine, then contact Whirlpool.

We were shocked to discover that 75% of the reviews on Amazon.com, Lowe's, and another site were strongly negative about this model and we agreed with most all of them - noise, poor cleaning, low water, the insufferable locking lid, and repair cost quotes.

Then we spent a week grudgingly shopping for a new washing machine, then coming home and checking reviews.  Finally, I decided to look for a simpler top-loading machine with a real agitator, manual water select, dial controls, and a non-locking lid.  We adjusted our expectations, which meant the machine would last only six years (mentally, my husband calculated and accrued the cost per year to do laundry) and anything longer would be a bonus.  AND we purchased a FIVE year extended warranty (Be sure to add this cost to the machine price for actual price comparisons as we found a significant difference between Sears, Best Buy and Home Depot.  Also consider whether the store will still be around in five years!)

In conclusion, I selected a GE - GTWN4250D1WS that was delivered this week.  The hot water setting worked fine along with the warm and cold settings; the agitator works; the wash and rinse cycles don't sound like a jet plane; and I could open the lid while the tub filled to rinse out the detergent cup!  My first use was a large, white with bleach load that took 50 minutes and suddenly my whites were a lot cleaner.  The second load was a small and delicate that too 40 minutes. I am hopeful :)


Just bought this Maytag to replace an aging old style top loader. Our first few loads have been interesting as we learn the in and outs of using an HE top-loader. After reading many reviews (on numerous models) you'd expect your clothes to be destroyed in these things. Let me just confirm that that is not the case in any way. This model is a bit loud as it performs it's numerous clicks and spins but that's normal. Sans extreme soundproofing to the internals I (an engineer) can not think of how you can make something like this quiet. I will say we spent longer leveling the washer than setting up any other appliance in our house. It pays to do this since it spins so %*#@ fast! In fact it reminds me of the movie Thor when he spins his hammer... we halfway expect lighting to shoot out of it at any moment.

Now for the newbies that aren't sure how these HE units are "supposed" to work. On normal cycles they add just enough water as to not detect further water in the drum/tub e.g. all water should saturate the clothing. The washer will spin on occasion as it adds water because the nerds that design these things know that you need to run the dryer portions of the pile under the running water to saturate it. So, accept that your clothing will look almost dry when it's washing on normal. Now, on bulk setting it'll pretty much submerge your pile. All while wasting water that to me at-least is expensive to waste. If your on a well and just like to see water, then leave it on bulk I guess. But the clothes are just as clean as if I had used my old power hungry commercial rated top loader with the agitator clothing torture device.

You really need to define what clean means to you anyway. If you have filthy kids and don't pre-treat your stains then I dunno if this will get them out. But for normal people/families with normal levels of dirt/soil then this is a great money saver! I got my set at Lowes for about $1200. If you pay $2000 and up on a set, you know the ones with TV screens on em, your probably going to expect too much to say the least.

The only complaint so far is that the soap dispenser tray doesn't seem to drain the added water completely (though all the soap is dispensed properly) so I don't know if this will be a mold/mildew issue. Probably not if you use it as often as we do.

Please spread the word if you've learned anything about HE washers from this. Some of the reviews I read when researching makes me think there is a real lack of understanding (uncommon sense) about these units. And those reviews should be removed.

Update: as of 4/02/2015 this set is still kicking butt! I really can't complain. The soap dispenser does collect mold/mildew but it looks like they all do. We leave ours open after a load is pushed through and keep the top up so it all dries out. Otherwise no issues after 2 years. We run the Afresh things once in awhile. Seems to help the washer smell good but otherwise not sure it does much.

Not sure if we just got a great set or the other reviews are just that skewed. You really never know what to trust these days.

God Bless!


I have been using a round bottomed wok on my Kenmore/Whirlpool stove -- the stove for which this wok ring is designed -- without much stability problem for years.  Then I decided to give this a try.  It works very well, and I have come to love it....

BUT there was a rough spot at the beginning of our relationship.  The heavy cast iron of this wok ring has a very abrasive surface; the roughness is equivalent to a coarse grinding pad. As I cooked and moved the wok around, the four prongs upon which the wok sits were grinding the surface of my beautiful carbon steel wok.  Other reviewers have noted this problem. Some scratching would not be a problem, but this was not just scratching.  It was really GRINDING the surface of the wok, and it was far too much to accept for long-term use.

My solution was to take out a file and smooth the the prongs that support the wok.  That made a big difference in the relationship; wok and ring are now mating happily.  If this is a problem for you too, do this: Coat the wok with a generous amount of cooking oil.  Then put it on the wok ring, move the wok around, and take it off.  Notice where the the wok rested on the four prongs of the wok ring by the oil stains left at the contact areas.  Take a file, and smooth these areas down.

It took about thirty minutes to file the contact areas smooth. My arm was sore at the end of the task.  But now my wok sits and moves well on the ring.  The ring does not grind the wok surface, though it does of course leave some normal scratching.

My five-star rating takes into account this simple modification.  Without the modification to smooth the ring prongs, I was reluctant to use this wok ring -- and I suppose that would be a three-star rating, at best.

And I will add a bonus suggestion.  The Whirlpool or Maytag stove burner for which this ring is designed works very well with a wok, with a slight modification.  This is probably also true for other stove models. The gas burners on this (and similar stoves) have a top flame diffusion plate, which is easily removed -- it simply lifts off.  On the high-output burner, one can take off the diffusion plate, light the gas jet (light it on LOW setting), and then cook on a jet flame that is PERFECT for wok cooking.

I have attached several photos to show this.  Is it safe to do this, you ask?  I have used it this way for years to cook on the wok, but it is not something suggested in the operation manual of the stove.  Give it a try, and use your own judgment. This provides a big gas jet flame, and you must be cautious when cooking with it.  And it works only on the high-output burner.

Look at the photos. The first photo shows the file, and the smoothed wok ring prong.  The second photo shows the gas flame on low with the diffusion plate removed.  The third photo is taken with the burner turned to high -- note that this is a big flame.  The fourth and last photo shows the wok sitting on the ring, with the gas jet turned on high.  This is perfect for wok cooking.


Nearly two years ago I purchased and began using my NewAir AI100BK Portable Icemaker. For two years it faithfully supported my frappe habit, saving me countless amounts of money by bringing me ice for my Mr. Coffee BVMC-FM1 20-Ounce Frappe Maker. I was happy.

However all good things (and electrical products) come to an end, and after nursing it along for three months, it quietly died. I grieved and then moved on.

I chose the Polar because it opens in the front, fitting under my counters better, and actually holds about the same amount of ice. The drain for the water is underneath, allowing an easy way to empty it. It makes ice just as fast as my previous one, if anything, while this is smaller, it seems to be even better insulated. The poles that freeze the water are inside where they can't be touched by children.

The guidelines state that you should clean it (bleach in water) regularly, and give instructions on saving your ice once the basket is full. It also recommends emptying it if you aren't using the ice. Since I let my previous maker run continuously, with the ice melting into the bottom and being remade, not only is this a better choice for health, but it will likely prolong the use.

To fill this ice maker you remove the drawer and fill the bottom. It comes with a pitcher which makes it easy to do, it also includes a scoop for the ice. You then plug it in and it makes ice ... Three choices of sizes. It doesn't state that you need to use any specific water, but the flavor of ice is dependent upon the water you use. When the drawer is full or the reservoir of water gets too low, a light comes on and it stops making ice. If the drawer is full (about 1/2 gallon of ice), put the ice in a ziplock bag and it will keep making ice. If you don't remove your ice it slowly melts back into the reservoir.

I thought parts were missing when mine first arrived, only to discover that the cord and pitcher were in the reservoir ... The scoop was in the drawer.

I have ice again. I am happy.

Edited - I have noticed that once my drawer is full, I need to push the stop and start button to get it to start making ice again. If I don't, it takes awhile to reset. I have also noticed that this particular model is more efficient when it makes the cubes, so I now keep my setting on medium cubes.

The other model began to immediately make ice once it fell below a certain level, so that it always had ice. This particular model focuses on making ice to be frozen. As a result, if I want guaranteed ice at any given moment in time, I need to empty it into the bags and freezer.

Final edit - stars removed. It was great while it lasted, but died after less than 5 months use. Going back to the New Air.


We have a small travel trailer with a decent sized refrigerator/freezer, but there are some things for which there is no substitute and we still need ice.  I cleaned my Polar with vinegar water instead of bleach and it seemed to do the trick.  I let a whole cycle run with the vinegar water, then I drained, cleaned and refilled the tank with plain filtered water.  I threw that batch of ice away, too.  I've frozen two subsequent batches.

Here's what I've learned about my unit:  It thinks the tank is empty when there's still a half inch of water in the bottom.  That's been consistent.  This is not a big deal for me.  I just drain and refill the tank.  The draining probably isn't necessary, but I want to start each cycle with clean water.  As someone else mentioned, there are some drips when you remove the ice basket, but knowing that means I just have a dish towel there to catch it.  I've placed the cubes in a freezer bag and put them in the freezer.  Yes, they do stick together because they're still a little wet, but one bang on the counter top after they're solidly frozen takes care of that and they stay separated.  The ice tastes fine and I experienced no overwhelming plastic odor from the housing of the unit, but I got the stainless model, rather than the white one.  It looks great on the counter top, BTW.  I've made all size cubes and don't really know why I need that choice, so I just settled on the medium.  Yes, there's some noise with the ice making process, but here is where I start to realize that it matters WHY you purchase this device.  For me, it's a way to make ice in the woods or on the lake, while we're camping.  I'm thrilled not to have to keep ice in a cooler or take up room in the freezer of my rv frig, trying to make ice.  I can use the stored cubes to help keep my rv frig and freezer cold and all I need to save in the freezer to get started on our next occasion is a couple of small freezer bags of ice.  The machine can keep up after that.  What can I say....we like ice in our iced tea and we like our white wine chilled on ice.  I can make smoothies if I have ice.

Our frig at home makes ice and it's different ice.  It's harder, more frozen and isn't drippy.  In the past, I've filled freezer bags with ice from home and put them in the rv freezer, but there's only enough room for it to last a couple of days and our trips are longer than that.  If you're planning to use this machine for camping or rving, it's terrific.  If you envision using it to supplement the ice production of your home frig, you may be disappointed.  It looks great, works as advertised and I love it, so far.  I'm saving the box and packing material just in case it doesn't last the year that it promises.

I'm in my third day of ice production.  I have tried both methods of stopping ice production:  unplug the unit and hit stop.  It doesn't seem to matter much...when I empty the ice drawer or run low on water, I still have to hit stop, then start to get it going again.  We have a very long trip planned starting next month and will update if there are problems.  No news is good news.


Save money on repairs - fix it yourself!

Does one or more of your heating burner/elements not heat up unless you jiggle it just right?
If so, then you might want to consider replacing the receptacle, and maybe the burner too.

Pull out the burner and look at the ends where they go into the receptacle. If they aren't nice and smooth, then you probably want to replace the burner too. (Especially if it looks rough and partly melted.) Burners are cheap - $10-$15 here on Amazon.

OK, is it really as simple as using a screwdriver? Pretty much.

Pull out the stove.
++++ Unplug it from the wall. ++++
 Optional: Clean 20 years of crumbs and forgotten toys...)
Take off the burners and drip trays.
Lift up the range and you can see the old receptacles.
Note that the wires go toward the temperature knobs for each burner.
  (On your stove, this may be toward the back or toward the front.)
Use the screwdriver to remove any access panel(s) so you can follow the wires.
Put the screws in a bowl so you don't lose them.
Now you can see where the wires have push-connects near the temperature knobs.

Now that you've seen the whole project, you can start to replace the receptacles one at a time.
See how the old receptacles are held on by a screw on the bracket?
Unscrew the one you are going to replace.
Now use the same screw to put the new bracket on. (You have new brackets, might as well use them.)

Now look at the old receptacle hanging down.
++++ Double check to make sure you unplugged the stove, and that none of the curious children has plugged it back in... ++++
If you have wire cutters, or even kitchen scissors, you can cut the old wires away from the old receptacle.
Pull/fish those wires out toward the knobs, but leave them connected at the knobs for now.

Now look at the kit. The receptacle and the wires are separate when you get them, but the wires simply push into the back of the receptacle with a click. It might take a bit of force to push them in, but they will go in if they are aligned correctly.

Snap the new, wired receptacle into the new bracket that you've installed on the stove.
Put the new wires where the old ones went, following the same path.
You want any extra wire to be behind the panel, not under your stovetop.
Unplug the old wires and plug the new ones in where they were. (It doesn't matter which wire goes to which connector.)
  Optional: You can coil up the extra wire and use tape/rubber band/zip-tie to keep it neat.

  Tip: If this is the last receptacle replacement, you can spiral-wrap the wires around the rest of the wires to keep them neat. That way you won't be tempted to use zip ties or tape under your stove top.

Re-assemble the access panels, drip trays etc...  You'll probably have to spread the new bracket apart a bit to get the burner into the new receptacle, and use a bit more force than you are used to with the old set up. It's new and tight.

Now you can plug the stove back in, and slide it back into place.

Test it.
Does it work? Of course it does!
Congratulations! You just saved yourself $$$ you would have spent on an appliance repair man!


It does fit and works as a replacement for the OEM filter, but the measurements are slightly different.
LG: 12 3/16" long, 59.1mm diameter
Swift Green: 12 7/16" long, 51.7mm diameter

So the Swift Green is 1/4" longer and 7.4mm (just over 1/4") narrower than the LG.  Due to the smaller diameter it will look like the filter is too small and won't fit properly when you go to put it in.  Don't worry, it fits, there will just be some space around the filter due to the smaller diameter.  It will also take a few seconds to get the inner portion of the filter to line up properly to lock it into place.  Once locked in place, it doesn't move and is just fine.

My refrigerator is the LG LMX21981ST.  It is a counter depth model, so it is shallower than normal.  It also has the water and ice maker on the door which take up some of the interior room.  All of that combines to mean there is very little space between the filter and the ice maker door when the refrigerator door is closed.  The extra length of the Swift Green fits, but it sticks out far enough to hit the ice machine door.  I only found out because the main refrigerator doors were making a different sound than normal when they closed and I wanted to find out why.

If you're wondering to yourself if your refrigerator is counter depth or not then it probably isn't.  I found out when buying mine that even though counter depth units are smaller, because fewer are built and sold they actually cost more.  Annoying.

From the box, these are the specifications:
Max operating temp: 38C/100F
Min operating temp: 0.6C/33F
Max working pressure: 689 kPa/100 psi
Min working pressing: 140 kPa/20 psi
Rated capacity: 2,271 litres/600 gallons  (LG filter is rated for 300 gallons)
Flow rate: 1.9 lpm/0.5 gpm
Estimated % reduction:
Lead - 95%
Cysts - 99%
Chlorine taste & odor - 95%
Turbidity - 95%
Asbestos - 95%
Atrazine - 95%
Alachlor - 95%
Lindane - 95%
2,4-D - 95%
Mercury - 95%
Toxaphene - 95%
P-Dichlorobenzene - 95%
Benzene - 95%

It also says it keeps a healthy level of fluoride in the water from fluoridated municipal tap water.

Last, when you go to replace this filter there will be a bit more water leakage from the filter when you remove it.  It doesn't lock water inside the filter to quite the same degree as the LG filter.  If you normally use a towel to catch the drips during a filter change, at the very least double up the towel.  A paper towel alone won't suffice.  If the area is free, you could also use a bowl or cup to catch the water and then just wipe up the remainder after it finishes draining.  Would definitely be easier.

If you have a counter depth refrigerator with the ice maker on the door, I recommend sticking with the OEM filter.  If not, I can't think of any reason why you shouldn't try this filter.


This is the infamous Whirlpool/Kitchenaid thermal fuse that blows when you run the cleaning cycle on the Kitchenaid KGSA906PSS range. You know, the problem everyone has, but Kitchenaid denies even happens; the reason I'll not buy Kitchenaid appliances again. All because of this fuse. Or rather, the poor implementation of the fuse into the design.

Anyway, when it blows about an hour into the cleaning cycle because by design the oven gets so hot it blows the fuse (good job, Kitchenaid!), the door will remain locked closed and the timer display will go black. No clock, no controls. The burners will still light. That means power is getting to the stove, but the oven will be dead.
So if you need the oven, you are out of luck. DO NOT CLEAN THIS OVEN if you need it within a week.

You will have to turn off the gas, unplug the power and disconnect the supply pipe from the range (I do that by removing the storage drawer and reaching underneath to disconnect from the range) then pull the range out enough so you can get behind it. There's a 24"x24" panel on the back held on with about 15 black square drive screws and an upper panel that is held on by a few Phillips drive screws. After removing the panels, you can see the fuse, attached to the back of the oven box, waiting for you to run the cleaning cycle so it can blow and cost you $40.

After I got the replacement part reinstalled and put all the screws back in, plugged it in and reconnected the gas, everything worked as before.

So I went out to the garage and took the blown fuse apart. It's a shame you cannot reset the fuse. There's no real reason you can't except they didn't design a little reset button into the fuse.

The fuse "blows" when a little bimetal disc inside the fuse heats up and pops like a bottle cap, which allows a little plastic piston to move. This in turn allows two electrical contacts to separate. This turns off the power to the display, leaves the door locked and shuts off the gas to the stove. The oven then cools down, but the fuse stays in the "off" mode.

After replacing the part and getting the oven to work, I broke the Bakelite open on the old fuse to see the innards. All I really needed to do was drill a tiny hole through the metal outer cap (but not through the bimetal) then poke a toothpick into the hole and pop the bimetal disc back into its original shape. It's not worth the trouble, but in a real pinch, it might work. The other way is to jumper over the two contacts, but of course, that's not recommended. We've had this range since 2005, though, and the fuse never blew before...because we never ran the cleaning cycle. So the fuse is there only in case you run the cleaning cycle. Apparently the oven box gets so hot during the normal cleaning cycle by design it can't stand it.

Both my wife and I live-chatted with Kitchen reps. They asked if an electrical fuse had popped at the box and other lame excuses, all while denying there was any reported problem. But a quick net search shows many people have had this problem. It's big enough that Amazon carries this one part and "8300802" returns a lot of hits.

I'm glad Amazon had the part. It got here in a hurry and it was the right part. Kitchenaid needs to stick with stand mixers and get out of the appliance biz.


Short story: The dishwasher is OK when it worked, I essentially agree with the 5-star reviews. The problem is that if your dishwasher breaks within the warranty period, dealing with Danby will be a pain.

Long story:
Since day 1, the dishwasher had issues with the panel, where multiple lights would go on, start randomly flashing, or the unit would stop responding altogether. However, turning the dishwasher off then on would often fix the issue. As time went by these incidents became more frequent and eventually the dishwasher stopped working 4 months later. I signed up on Danby's website in November 2015 to seek further assistance, but in doing so I found a *MAJOR* security flaw which I reported to Danby(more on that later) and asked that my personal information be erased from their system.

One surprising fact is that the dishwasher came with "carry-in" service, at first I thought it was perhaps a mistake, but it was not. This is puzzling to me because the dishwasher is as heavy and as large as many other products to which Danby offers "in-home" service. As others have noted, it is not a small dishwasher, it is quite big. It will not be easy to carry it around. It also doesn't fit in all cars, it did not fit in mine. What's odd is that Danby's website says this exact quote:

"To ensure our customers are taken care of, Danby proudly offers the industrys longest warranty and extended warranty options. Our products include standard 12 month, 18 month and 24 month warranties that include parts, labour and in-home service. Were here to keep you moving forward."

But the DDW611WLED does not come with in-home service, you will be asked to carry it yourself to a third-party servicer. You also have to call the servicers yourself and negotiate all kinds of stuff, and chances are this will be a horrible experience. It was for me. Danby will not help you with getting service, they wash their hands clean of the whole process and only give you phone numbers of nearby servicers. You will have to carry the dishwahser back and forth to the servicer. If the dishwasher was not repairable, you will be required to ship it to Danby at your own expense for a replacement. That will cost you a significant amount.

For the reasons above, if you are not in a situation to drive this heavy dishwasher around (student, elderly, etc...) do not buy it, otherwise it will be a nightmare to get it repaired if it breaks within the warranty period. There are a lot of complaints on the internet relating to Danby's warranty services. I didn't think about warranty service before buying the dishwasher, but I learned my lesson.

Back to the *MAJOR* security flaw. If you signed up on Danby's website, your customer's personal information was not being properly secured. They were leaking it to everyone. I notified them of this, although I did get a response after one month it was still not fixed. When I pressed them further their reaction was very offensive and insulting which turned me off from dealing with them in any shape or form. I was very disappointed with their low ethical standards.

I don't know if they fixed this flaw now, but if you do buy a Danby product, I suggest you avoid signing up on their website. They don't seem to value personal information and privacy.


Before I bought this product, I had many doubts and it was hard to find this information. I waited 2 months of daily use to give this review, to be sure about the product, and here is the information that I will clarify for you:

* 1) Size of the dishes
* 2) How does it drain?
* 3) Type of detergent

I had to check all this, because I didn't have the necessary conditions to have the dishwasher. For starters, it didn't fit under my counter-top, and my university (I live in the campus residences) doesn't allow us to make changes to the furniture instalments. Hereare the adaptations I made, and I got to tell you that the dishwasher is an excellent product. It leaves everything so clean, dry and I don't have to waste my time washing dishes any more.

1) First I had a Corelle dinnerware with squared dishes (the model is called bamboo leaf, if it is any reference to anybody). Well, they didn't fit right in the dishwasher. I had do lean them over a bit and leave one space free between every plate, which made me use the double of the space and if the plate was too near the detergent dispenser, sometimes it wouldn't open properly and it will make a mess. So, in the end, I changed the dinnerware and bought another Corelle with round plates and it worked perfectly (I bought it for $20 in a great sale of Walmart)! the dishes fit neatly and I can wash the whole set in one go, and it leaves enough free space for glasses and some other dishes (the model of the dinnerware that I bought is the 'Corelle livingware squared 16-pc dinnerware set', which has rounded plates, and the size description is: Squared 16-Piece Set includes 4 each: 10-1/4" Dinner Plates, 6-3/4" Bread & Butter Plates, 18-oz Soup / Cereal Bowls, 11-oz Stoneware Mugs.

2) To drain it has a pump inside. This was important for me because the dishwasher didn't fit under my counter-top, so I bought a small table with wheels and put the dishwasher there. So, My counter-top has the same original free space, which is great, and I only move the table once a day to plug the dishwasher to the kitchen's faucet (it is super easy to connect because it has a very convenient adapter, so you plug it and unplug it in less than 5 seconds), and the rest of the time the table is in a free space in my kitchen next to a wall. The important thing here is that the draining is done trough a pump, so it doesn't matter that the table is about 15 cm lower than the sink, it always drains properly.

3) The type of detergent is VERY important. This dishwasher doesn't heat water as much as others, for which it is very important to buy a detergent that works at temperatures of 50C (122 F). I first bought a gel cheap detergent and didn't read that it worked for temperatures over 60C, and the dishes came out a bit dirty. So, in the end I bought the 'Finish Quantum tablets' and it leaves the dishes sparkling clean! they come out perfect and bright, and I haven't pre-washed any of my dishes ever! I only take out big pieces of leftovers, put the dishes inside, and that's about it. Although, I have to mention this: I had to make a small adaptation, because the tablets are a bit big to fit in the dispenser, so I broke the small plastic that divided the two sections of the detergent dispenser so that the tablet fitted and could come out comfortably.

I really love this product, and I recommend it to anybody!


I read many of the reviews for this dishwasher as well as another brand and there were many negative and positive reviews. I thought about it for a few days and decided to risk purchasing this brand. I was worried about it turning into a big hunk of junk but I HATE doing dishes by hand so it was worth the risk to me. My boyfriend and I live in a VERY small apartment so this machine is the perfect size. It's about three times the size of a microwave so it does hog counter space. I have mine in a spot that doesn't have an upper cabinet so I'm able to put things on top of the dishwasher like my mixer and blender which is a plus.

So, my boyfriend was able to carry the heavy box by himself up the flight of stairs to our apartment. It was well packaged in an ordinary brown box and then inside that box was styrofoam sheets for padding around the dishwasher box. It was going well until my eyes set on a HUGE DENT in the side of the machine!! I was soooo mad especially since both boxes were not damaged at all! HOW DID THIS HAPPEN!!? I should have gave it four stars just for that alone. I have read this in other reviews so I was worried that mine would be dented as well and it was. It's not worth sending back since a replacement will probably be dented as well. I got lucky though because the dent is on the left side toward the back so it's not too noticeable unless you're standing at my sink. I'm still irritated by it though since this machine was so expensive.

Anyway, my boyfriend set it up quickly and used plumbers tape at all the connections. So far we've ran it three times with no leaks. The machine is NOT noisy as some others have stated. The only loud part is when the water comes rushing out from the hookup at the faucet and that's to be expected. I find the lulling of the machine to be no different than a regular dishwasher. You do have to rinse the dishes very well before you load them since it doesn't remove any stuck on foods. I didn't do this the first two times I ran it and had to hand wash all those dishes. I used a whole dishwasher detergent tablet (by Finish...but I'll be changing to something more eco-friendly) and some rinse aid. We have really bad well water so the detergent worked really well with the rinse aid. No residue or any spots and everything came out really clean. I didn't have any trouble with loading the dishes and some people stated that their large plates wouldn't fit. My large plates fit but it is a tight fit. The plates are just barely touching the top of the machine and you don't have to lean them over. Leaning them over actually won't allow them to be cleaned properly. It does hold quite a bit and I'm able to run it every few other day or so. The silverware caddy is removable and it has two sides and each side is devided so there are four spots to put silverware and etc. Two of the sections are raised slightly higher than the other two which is great for smaller/shorter items. The caddy also had a snap on cover on each of its sides which I removed since I don't have anything tiny to be washed like bottle nipples and etc. The machine is sturdy and does not wobble. The door takes a hard tug to get it open and the buttons are easy to use and understand. The run time is pretty long at an hour and a half but I don't mind. So far it's a great little machine and I'll update this review that I continue to use it.


BEWARE!  This control board is neither made by Whirlpool, nor is it a factory specification part authorized by the manufacturer to repair their appliances.

As of the date of this review, take a good look at that picture of the part by enlarging it.  You can clearly see the letters FSP inside the parallelogram outline.  This indicates it is a Factory Specification Part, and it is printed on both circuit boards.  This influenced my decision to purchase it, as it would mean it isn't a generic or rebuilt junk part, which in my opinion are inferior.  I wanted Whirlpool, as the one that failed is original and lasted 9 years.

The product description is equally deceptive, as it uses the Whirlpool part number followed by "Genuine Replacement Part".  It is genuine in the fact that it does exist.  It ISN'T genuine Whirlpool or genuine FSP, which the use of "genuine" alludes to without actually stating it.

Upon getting my package, I noticed that the parts box didn't have any Whirlpool writing or markings on it.  That didn't bode well, but I opened the box.  Inside were a set of directions printed on a piece of paper, which also had no manufacturer markings.  The two circuit boards were in separate anti static bags, luckily see through.  Both parts were of course lacking my above criteria.  I didn't have to open the bags, so I immediately filed to return these items. I am not pleased that I have to eat the shipping back to partshouse because the picture is not of the actual item you receive and the description is deceptive in conjunction with the picture.  DON'T buy if you are picky about your replacement parts.  But if you like to roll the dice with a part that may not last as long as a factory part, by all means buy this.

Edit on 4/26/13**If you purchase this from seller "partshouse" like I did, not only do you have to pay to ship it back, the guy has the gall to charge you a 20% restocking fee, even though it was his misleading description and picture that convinced me to buy it.  I'd liken that to bait and switch.  Amazon made it right, but they should think about suspending this company's privileges to sell on Amazon.  BTW, the picture and description haven't been updated to reflect this is a knockoff part yet.

I ended up getting the correct part off of the famous auction site for roughly another $30 from another seller, who actually sold OEM parts and it was so worth it.

**Edit 8/18/13**  I am revisiting my review because it looks like seller "partshouse" isn't listed as a seller for this item anymore.  However they apparently are still selling on Amazon as a whole.  I will temper my original review by letting you, the reader, know that I paid $34.95 for the knock off part.  It looks like this could now be the correct factory specification part because the price is now $20 more than what I paid.  That being said, I would just advise due diligence in purchasing, but other new reviewers are saying it looks good to go from their experiences.  Hey, at least you know what to look for when your item arrives!  If it doesn't pass muster, send it back if you don't feel comfortable with it.


This gas valve was a perfect replacement for my whirlpool range/oven (GFG461LVS2). However, it turned out that replacing this part didn't contribute toward solving my problem at all.  No fault of the part, which was perfect, hence the 5 star rating.

To hep others that might encounter the same symptoms, I'm posting my experience here:
My symptoms:
Oven bake operation worked for about 20 minutes or so with proper ignition and flame. After 20 minutes, the oven bake flame would ignite and then immediately go out. The oven attempts ignition 3 times with this result (immediatily shutting down the flame automatically), then gives up using the bake flame and locks it off. The lockout can be reset by pressing the stop button. No other indication is given on the display when the lockout occurrs, so it looks as if your oven is still operating normally, even though it is slowly cooling down. You might not notice it until you go to remove the roast/brisket/turkey/etc. from the oven a couple hours later and find that the oven is cold...

Attempted fixes:
Based on the sound of the oven attempting to bake (3 attempts, with quick shutoff of the gas after each attempt), I thought the ignitor perhaps wasn't igniting the flame properly, so I purchased a new spark ignitor. This is a reasonable first attempt since ignitors tend to take the brunt of wear in the oven and are cheap and easy to replace. However, this did not fix the problem or change the symptoms.

If I had opened the floor of the oven and observed the flame, I would have noticed that the flame was igniting fine (sometimes took 2 attempts, but flame worked). The problem is that the oven shuts off the gas after the flame starts. My next guess, based on further research on the internet, was to replace the gas regulator valve (this product, which is the next cheapest part), which I did. That also did not fix or change the symptoms.

After further research and this new evidence, I discovered that the problem must be in the part of the system that detects that there is a flame. If the oven does not detect a flame, it shuts off the gas valve. In my range/oven (GFG461LVS2), this flame detection happens through the spark ignitor. Since I had replaced the ignitor (this product) already, I trusted it was good. The next possible cause of the problem must be the circuit board that operates the ignitor, which also detects the flame through the ignitor circuit.

I finally replaced the spark ignition module circuit board (part 9758080) and that solved the problem. This circuit board can have failures that produce the symptom of failing to detect a flame after the oven warms up (which also warms the circuit board).

If you are having the symptoms I had (oven works 20-ish minutes, then fails to properly detect the flame, even though flame is ignited properly), then I recommend buying a new ignitor (could be the flame sense thermocouple in the ignitor), then replace the spark control momdule if that doesn't fix it. Don't waste time/money on the valve for this particular symptom.

Another note: Even replacing all three parts as I did (ignitor, valve, circuit board) is still cheaper than a new comparable range/oven purchase, so it is economical if you don't mind putting your own time into the replacement. Also, the parts are not too difficult to replace with medium home-handy-man skills (I'm not a professional repair person) and average tools.


This part was used to replace the oven the igniter on a 13 year old Maytag model MGS5770ADW.  While doing research my concern was if the connector would fit my oven.  Other Amazon shoppers had the same concern. The connector was a match.  No wire splicing was required.  Overall the photos of the 74007498 I looked at on the internet appeared to look the same as my original igniter.

PART NUMBER

The Maytag MGS5770ADW owners guide parts list the oven igniter's part number as 7432P075-60.  The same part number is shown in the search results on Maytag's website.  I did a search on several appliance parts websites using my stove model and all resulting in the part number 74007498 being returned from the search.  Sears' parts website has the following blurb for the 74007498 part number:

"This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including 7432P075-60".

CONNECTOR

The original igniter's connector has the following markings:

  7432P106-60
  MODEL 501A
  NORTON(r)
  0030

The replacement igniter on Amazon (this review) markings is the same as the first two lines, but Norton(r)" is not stamped on the connector:

  7432P106-60
  MODEL 501A
  1342

The photo of the igniter on Amazon's website was too small to read the markings on the igniter.  I was able to find a photo large enough on the Sears' website to read the markings on the connector they were selling at twice the price:

  7432P106-60
  Model 501A
  Norton(r)
  0110

Anyone know if Norton is the manufacturer of the plug? Igniter? I'm guessing since the "(r)" indicates a registered trademark.  The replacement I received did not have Norton stamped on it so is this a knockoff?  In any case my oven now works at the price of 50 percent less than some other sellers.

PACKAGING

The box has a label with the words "Whirlpool Corporation Factory Certified parts" and the part number "74007498".  There is no Whirlpool logo on the label or box.  Does this mean the part is not OEM?  Well, my oven now works.  If you are not already aware Whirlpool now owns Maytag along with other appliance brands.

INSTALLATION

The igniter does not come with screws included.  You will need to reuse the existing screws.

For my Maytag MGS5770ADW the installation was a breeze.  The connector was accessible from inside of the oven by pulling the wires through.  The connector has two screws.  You will need a 5/16 wrench or socket.  (1) shut off the power at breaker or unplug stove (2) remove the oven racks or other obstacles (3) remove the old igniter (4) screw on the new igniter, attach connector,  reattach any oven parts removed  (5) restore power and turn on oven.

Tips:  the oven door (optional, but recommended) , oven bottom, etc is usually simple to remove.  See your stove's owner's guide for details.  No tools were required for my stove to remove the above stuff.  If your bad igniter has been installed for a few years , before removing you may want to put a drop of oil on the screw threads and between screw head/bracket before removing to minimize the chance of damaging the screws.

RATING

I will give this igniter five stars.  It was a perfect fit and good price and the oven now works.


This spark ignitor was a perfect replacement for the spark ignitor of my whirlpool range/oven (GFG461LVS2).  Replacing the ignitor is a common first step to attempting to fix an ignition problem since the part is fairly easy to replace and relatively inexpensive.

In my case, however, this replacement didn't solve the problem I was having.  To hep others that might encounter the same symptoms, I'm posting my experience here:
My symptoms:
Oven bake operation worked for about 20 minutes or so with proper ignition and flame.  After 20 minutes, the oven bake flame would ignite and then immediately go out.  The oven attempts ignition 3 times with this result (immediatily shutting down the flame automatically), then gives up using the bake flame and locks it off.  The lockout can be reset by pressing the stop button.  No other indication is given on the display when the lockout occurrs, so it looks as if your oven is still operating normally, even though it is slowly cooling down.  You might not notice it until you go to remove the roast/brisket/turkey/etc. from the oven a couple hours later and find that the oven is cold...

Attempted fixes:
Based on the sound of the oven attempting to bake (3 attempts, with quick shutoff of the gas after each attempt), I thought the ignitor perhaps wasn't igniting the flame properly, so I purchased a new spark ignitor (this product).  This is a reasonable first attempt since ignitors tend to take the brunt of wear in the oven and are cheap and easy to replace.  However, this did not fix the problem or change the symptoms.

If I had opened the floor of the oven and observed the flame, I would have noticed that the flame was igniting fine (sometimes took 2 attempts, but flame worked).  The problem is that the oven shuts off the gas after the flame starts.  My next guess, based on further research on the internet, was to replace the gas regulator valve (next cheapest part), which I did.  That also did not fix or change the symptoms.

After further research and this new evidence, I discovered that the problem must be in the part of the system that detects that there is a flame.  If the oven does not detect a flame, it shuts off the gas valve.  In my range/oven (GFG461LVS2), this flame detection happens through the spark ignitor.  Since I had replaced the ignitor (this product) already, I trusted it was good.  The next possible cause of the problem must be the circuit board that operates the ignitor, which also detects the flame through the ignitor circuit.

I finally replaced the spark ignition module (circuit board) and that solved the problem.  This circuit board can have failures that produce the symptom of failing to detect a flame after the oven warms up (which also warms the circuit board).

If you are having the symptoms I had (oven works 20-ish minutes, then fails to properly detect the flame, even though flame is ignited properly), then I recommend buying a new ignitor (could be the flame sense thermocouple in the ignitor), then replace the spark control momdule if that doesn't fix it.  Don't waste time/money on the valve for this particular symptom.

Another note: Even replacing all three parts as I did (ignitor, valve, circuit board) is still cheaper than a new comparable range/oven purchase, so it is economical if you don't mind putting your own time into the replacement.  Also, the parts are not too difficult to replace with medium home-handy-man skills (I'm not a professional repair person) and average tools.