FIRST UNIT FAULTY, SECOND PERFECT: The first unit I received had a noisy compressor that would make a metal "clunk" sound every time the compressor turned on or off. The compressor still worked 100% in terms of cooling temperature, just was noisy. I had the first fridge for 5 months and decided to see if SPT would replace it because the 30 day Amazon warranty was long gone. SPT told me they would repair or replace it if they found a problem even though in their warranty it says different. This fridge is under manufacture warranty for 1 year from the purchase date. Luckily, the SPT warehouse is in City of Industry, CA, which was close to me so I dropped it off. SPT had it for 4 days, called me and said they couldn't repair so they would send me new one, shipped it for free. Turn around time was 7 days which is pretty quick in my opinion. Got the new one and it is super quiet and did not make any "clunk" sounds. The repair tech even took the new fridge out of the box, switched the side the front door hinge is on, and packed it back up.

Functionality: A packed fridge will get very cold especially on the highest setting "6". 3-4 setting still works pretty well. Freezer is small as others have stated. It will 'almost' freeze large items. Small items like burritos or breakfast sandwiches will freeze normally. A small tray of ice cubes will freeze. A bottle of alcohol will get to the temp you need it.

IS IT QUIET? Yes! I realize the idea of how noisy a product is, is subjective. I'm very sensitive to noises when I sleep and this unit did not wake or keep me up. The unit is about 10 ft from my head. You can hear when the compressor comes on, but it is very minimal. If you have this in an office or an area where people are on phones you will NOT hear this.

HELPFUL FEATURES: The door hinge can be placed on either side which was helpful for me. You have to manually change it though. Instructions included on how to do that.  Pretty easy to do. You basically move the hinge from one side to the other with some screws and bolts, and the door will swing open which ever way fits best for the owner.

RATING: I debated giving it 4 stars instead of 5. Even though the first fridge was faulty, SPT stood by their product, plus the fridge is quality, does its job well, looks sharp, and is at the perfect price point. It deserves 5 stars.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS: If this fridge is going into a poorly lit room, I highly recommend buying a cheap, battery-powered motion sensor LED light and stick it to the top of the fridge using some double-sided tape. The one I purchased for my fridge is on eBay for $6.26. Just copy/paste "8 LED Light Lamp IR Auto Sensor Motion Detector Energy" into eBay search bar.

Any questions feel free to ask.


This is a great product.  It sure beats the original one. My fridge is an older GE side by side. It had three screws holding the original to the left wall of the compartment and the water entered from the back. The male electrical connector in the unit required me to use the complete length of the cord.
  I read some people struggled with this..."the cords too long and hangs down".  Well I just test-fitted it first (test fit:  just drop it over the two retaining screws manipulated the cord the way you want it: not hanging and with the cord connector in correct alignment with the one in the wall of the unit, then remove the unit). Make sure the switch on the new unit is OFF when doing this.  You'll find out whay later.
  After doing this I heated the cord with a heat gun on LOW, this softened the sheating up and allowed me to squash cord into kind of a long-flat-s shape.  Then let it cool in that shape,  You get the idea.
  As I said, my water source it from the rear and there was no water cup/trough on the old icemaker, water just came out of the tube into the ice tray.  Well ,in this kit there is a water cup/though that just snaps into the rear of the new ice maker (THIS IS NOT MENTIONED IN THE INSTRUCTION BOOK).  That's cool, but wait the tube in the back of the ice compartment is TOO SHORT!
  DON'T try to pull the old one out of the unit.  The one in the kit is designed to slip right over the existing one. No clamps needed.  So, if your original one is too short, cut the new one to the correct length and just slide it over the original tube. Don't worry about being too precise with the length you can slide it back and forth with little effort if it doen't fit quite right into the cup/trough. This is another test-fit that should be done before the next step. Once you have the right location leave it in that position.
  Almost there.  Make sure the switch is in the OFF position on the new unit.  If not OFF chances are the water solenoid is going to energize when you plug in the electrical connector and dispense water into the freezer compartment.
  Now you are ready to just slip the new unit over the two screws while slipping water hose into the cup/trough, plug in the electrical connector and then tighten the two screws.
  Put the ice catcher and whatever else you removed to gain acces to the ice maker back in position.
  Turn the switch to ON. The water solenoid should have turned on and filled the tray as soon as you put it in the ON position.
Don't worry if it did not.  If you are sure that the connector is properly seated and the water source to the ice maker is okay. Just close the door and walk away. The tray has to get to the right temperature before it can start dispensing cubes.
  Within 24 hours you will have 400 ice cubes.


6/15/2015 update: water leaking on the floor from this part, weird poppyseed sized and colored globules on everything in the tub. New dishwasher time; predictably (due to wife vetos) the new dishwasher costs a couple hundred more than the cheapest. Even so, not worth repairing a machine with rusting racks and floor panels. Since I got the Supco (not the GE) pump, left another review there.
=======================================
Came with instructions from an outfit called "Exact Replacement Parts", the instructions give the part number as being ERWD26X10013 (the ER presumably standing for Exact Replacement), and it looks just like a cheaper part I saw elsewhere on Amazon. So, if you're thinking of spending the extra $10+ on the theory you're getting official GE, don't bother. (Update: the cheaper seemingly identical part I saw on Amazon (by Supco) isn't cheaper anymore, you might be able to find it cheaper elsewhere.) It appears necessary to pull out the dishwasher out some (less than half way) so the front can be raised enough to leave enough room to get the assemblies out and in. In my case, wish I'd known to unscrew the latch plate screws (which stick out considerably further than they need to) at the inside top of the machine some or entirely, so one wouldn't have caught on and ripped the countertop. If the machine seems caught on something on the way out, make sure it isn't these screws (or anything else) caught on the formica before forcing the issue. I'm seeing elsewhere that its a good idea to screw the front legs in some also, to give a little clearance (wouldn't that put the full weight of the machine on the center feet?) and to permit putting something under the legs to avoid damaging the floor; while the feet of mine were rusted, the screws are clean and turn easily (one leg wobbles alot, and the nut's too dirty to see what the issue is; generally, the legs aren't what I'd call robust). The socket sizes for the original clamps ended up being 1/4" and 5/16", but you need a small socket wrench, to be creative with extensions, and to feel your way around. So far, its been making the "slight grinding noises" the instructions claim will soon go away. It also comes with a confusing ton of extra parts, which I guess I'll throw away, but it might have been a good idea to use the screws it came with, since there was a certain cross threading feel to using the original screws. Watch out for the two electrical connectors also: they are identical and can be flipped, but one is for the solenoid and one is for the motor, so its best to take a photo of the original wiring before you proceed (fortunately, I'd taken at least one picture to show where my leak was). Give serious consideration to getting a new professionally installed dishwasher instead; my lower rack has rusted through, and they aren't cheap. New dishwashers start in the $300s (though you'll probably spend more), installs might be $150. If you decide to repair anyway, maybe my bad experience can help you avoid damaging your formica.


Our oven was taking longer and longer to reach the desired temperature, which is the classic sign of an oven igniter that needs to be replaced.  Basically, there are two types of igniters that will fit the majority of ovens.  They're either rectangular, like this one, called "flat," or they're cylindrical, called "round."  All I had to do was take a peek under the oven, where the flame comes out of the gas pipe, and there was the very obvious flat (rectangular) igniter.  This igniter replaces all flat igniters, so there's no need to worry about what brand the oven is.

First step: turn off the power to the oven at the circuit breaker box.

Important note: the actual igniter element is mounted inside a protective metal cage for a reason.  Don't touch it with anything, especially with your bare hands.  It's very fragile.

To access the old igniter, I removed the bottom of the inside of the oven with the two thumb screws inside in the back of the oven (I was, at first, tempted to try to reach it in the way that I first was able to see it, through the bottom, broiler, compartment.  This proved to be a mistake and a waste of time).  Then, I removed the spreader plate that hovers directly over the flame.  At that point, the igniter was easy to reach and in plain sight.  I snipped the wires as close to the igniter as possible, to give myself plenty of slack to work with (you can cut a wire shorter, but you can't cut it longer).  I stripped a little insulation from the ends of each wire and used the ceramic wire caps that came with the new one to attach it in place of the old one.  Polarity doesn't matter; no need to worry about which wire to connect to which.  Never use plastic wire caps in an oven.  I screwed the new one in place and tucked the excess wire out of the way, put the oven back together, and turned the power back on.

My first test run took ten minutes to reach 400 degrees, which is a great improvement.  It used to take over an hour.  I've had it in place for a month and a half with no problems.  I'm not especially skilled at repairs, but I think this repair can be done by anyone who owns a pair of pliers and has a very basic understanding of how to splice two wires.  The fact that it was a gas oven sounds scary, but the repair seemed simple, safe, and relatively quick (about fifteen minutes of actual work, plus ten minutes of deciding how I was going to do it).  Leaning over the oven door, into the chamber, required significant lower back strength, so anyone who might not be able to hold that awkward position while working should consider finding someone who can, or finding a way to remove the door from its hinges and still be able to get it back on afterward.


When my GE oven would not turn on this past Sunday night, I needed a quick replacement. I knew nothing about ovens, but I dreaded calling for a technician. A little internet research showed that my ignitor was likely the culprit. After identifying my original ignitor as a Norton 501A, I found this product on Amazon. As others have mentioned, this is an genuine Norton 501A GE replacement part. After replacing the ignitor, the oven worked perfectly and the flames came on within a minute. I had everything up and working by Tuesday. It was a very simple repair and only requires a screwdriver (to unmount/mount the ignitor) and a set of pliers (to cut, strip and splice the wires). Here's a few notes for others who may have never had experience with this type of repair.

- You may notice that no gas flows and believe it's an issue with gas and not an issue with the ignitor. But the gas valve is connected in series with the ignitor. If the current through the ignitor is not sufficient, the gas valve will not turn on. This is a safety feature that prevents gas build-up without an ignition source. This means that if your ignitor does not glow or only glows dimly, the current will not be sufficient to release gas.
- You can measure the current if you have a current clamp or if you can insert an ammeter in series with your circuit. But do this only if you absolutely know what you are doing, as it requires a live current and, remember, you are working in an oven! A working ignitor will draw around 3.2 amps. If you don't have one, don't worry. Just replace the ignitor anyway as it's the most likely point of failure in many cases and is cheap to replace.
- Flat/square ignitors (like this one, with the metal rectangular cage) are generally not compatible with the round ignitors. They draw different currents. Make sure to get the right type. Brands generally don't matter, as most square ignitors draw the same current, but my vary slightly in size. This happens to be the cheapest one I could find.
- Your old ignitor may have come with a plastic plug at the end. This model (GE WB2X9998) is a bare wire at the end and comes with 2 ceramic wire nuts. The easiest way to use this is to cut the plug off the old ignitor and splice it onto the new ignitor. Wire polarity is not an issue. If you are not comfortable with this, you may want to look into GE WB13K21, which has a plug.
- The current photo doesn't show it, but there are mounting tabs (for the two screws that will hold the ignitor in place) coming from both sides. Just bend down the side you don't need.
- When you remove your old ignitor, don't throw away the screws. This does not come with screws.


Last week we purchased this Cabrio 5700 washer along with a 5600 dryer(non glass front,Great Buy!). We really did not need the washing machine as we have a Maytag conventional 2 years old; however our original GE dryer died and we went ahead and bought anyway because of the fantastic Labor day sales and $100 in rebates from the local power company and State. We do a lot of laundry. We have two young boys who get clothes dirty, quickly and my wife an I also have uniforms that need frequent washing. I am always a skeptic and overly research items, peruse product reviews into the wee hours of the morning, basically become a bit obsessive over the whole deal (per wife).
As I write, I am conducting yet another experiment to see what this thing can handle. It is on the Heavy Duty cycle-Heavy soil-cool water- Deep clean option. I have in the machine, 6 pair of 11 oz canvas hiking pants, 1 pair of bluejeans (all sized 36/34) and two thick Field-n-Stream non lined flannel shirts. The load is up to the top of the stainless tub and the clothes are semi loose, spread around the center. This is a heavy load for clothes and I would not normally load it this thick. Initially the tub fills with the soapy solution and then agitates. The agitator is definitely under some stress as the motion is measurably subdued compared to a normal load of mixed fabrics. The tub fills 3 more times as the cycle progresses. The manual states on the Heavy Duty cycle that it will do this because the recommended fabrics for the cycle absorb more water than normal type loads. Because the machine has a glass top, I am able to observe the whole cycle. Through out the course of the cycle, all of the items eventually make it through the solution a few times. I had my doubts but was proved wrong. This load when wet looked like quite a force to recon with however the machine did as advertised and being able to observe this through the glass top is a real plus.
Whites cycle is excellent!. Bulky cycle handled a queen size thick cotton hand made quilt very well. The water level in the tub on the Bulky setting is quite a lot. I did have to open the lid and even out the quilt due to it having an unbalanced load during the spin cycle. The wet quilt was sooo heavy that this was sort of expected. Not a concern for us. Today I washed 4 washable silk shirts on the delicate cycle and these came out great as well. The delicate cycle also fills up with a higher level of water and agitator speeds are slower. We have put towels through the Heavy Duty cycle and the Whites cycle  and have had no issues. No twisting into knots or ripping. FWIW Front load washers are not exempt from tying items into knots! A feature I wish this had is what Whirlpool put into the larger capacity models which is when the load is going through the initial soak down, the basket rotates so all of the load gets saturated. Currently the load makes it through anyways via agitation so this wish is not a deal breaker. I DO recommend this product. If it did not meet my expectations it would have been sent back, Period!


UPDATE: 10 months after purchase, the dishwasher stopped working. After waiting two weeks for a Samsung technician, he was unable to fix it, claiming he had the wrong part. To Samsung's credit, they called me the next day and offered to refund me my total purchase price for the appliance, which I accepted. I guess the moral is that this isn't the most reliable dishwasher on the market, but Samsung stood by their product, at least during the warranty period, and made me whole for my purchase.

We researched dishwashers to replace a Bosch dishwasher that had recently gone to dishwasher heaven. We had consistent trouble with the Bosch electronics which kept going bad, so we avoided them even though they are recommended in many reviews as the best, including Consumer Reports. We kept coming back to the Samsung DMT800 and 400 and finally settled on the 400. The biggest difference we could see was that the 800 had a delayed start feature which we knew we'd never use.

This dishwasher gets everything squeaky clean, and we do absolutely no pre-rinsing of our dishes. The Samsung is so quiet that you honestly can't tell that it's running! The ergonomics of the unit are beautiful, with the controls on top of the door so the lines on the front of the dishwasher are only broken by the curved handle and three inconspicuous blue LEDs that track the progress of the wash.

I have only one minor complaint and one warning. The complaint is that there is no indicator to show that the dishwasher is finished and contains clean dishes. Consider this scenario. I turn the dishwasher on before I leave the house. My wife comes home later in the afternoon and has no way of knowing that the wash inside the unit contains clean dishes. Not a biggee, but it would be nice to have something that showed the cycle has completed.

The warning is that this dishwasher is just a tad deeper than other dishwashers. Be careful that you measure accurately and that you have sufficient depth for the Samsung. We needed to take down the sheetrock behind the unit to gain the extra quarter inch we needed.

All in all, it looks like we made a wise choice. I wouldn't recommend Bosch due to our experience with repairs, and after the first 3 weeks, the Samsung seems to have been a wise choice.

UPDATE: We've owned this dishwasher now for a few months and still love it. One correction to the lack of a completion indicator I made above. If you choose "Sanitize", that light will remain on after the cycle to show that the dishes inside are clean. The right-most blue indicator on the front of the door that is actually is programmed to show that the load is completed goes off after 20 minutes. We choose Sanitize for all of our wash loads and it is how we tell whether the dishes inside are clean. The light will go off once the door is opened to empty the dishwasher and not come on again until the next cycle.


I am writing in reference to an ongoing leakage issue with a dishwasher purchased in March 2013. I purchased the dishwasher knowing how well Samsung products were reliable and manufactured by a well know company. I worked hard to save enough money to buy the "complete package" of kitchen appliance, and wanted nothing but the BEST in my eyes. I have always purchased Samsung products with never a disappointment or complaint until now. I had my dishwasher installed April 2013, due to waiting until the complete package could be purchased a little at a time. Installation was so exciting for me I had waited 14 years for new appliances. In Oct 2013, my dishwasher stopped working and the "heavy" cycle button was blinking,so as a consumer I retrieve my owners manual,and it states leakage, with several options to try example holding the cancel/drain button down to reset, with  no luck. I contacted customer service to schedule a repair the customer service scheduled my appointment for Oct 22,2013,almost 3 weeks later. The morning of my service call I called the company to get a "window" for repairs and was told the appointment was cancelled by Samsung. I then got back on the phone to follow up with Samsung immediately,they advised my appointment has been filled,and the tech could not make it. The appointment was rescheduled for Oct 28,2013,at this time when the tech showed up,the dishwaher had dried the water from the leakage and reset itself,the tech did nothing to try to diagnose the problem and listed it as possible circuit board,and left my home. Approximately 4 months later the same issues started. I contacted Samsung again regarding this issue. This time it was 3 days out of warranty, they agreed to pay for parts only,I said that is not an option this is an ongoing issue, with arguing finally the agreed to send out a tech. March 15,2014 and tech came to my home and saw/found a leakage,and states tub stainless replace or sump assembly leaking,thats the part they ordered for follow up. March 25,2014 they replaced the sump assembly. July 2014 the issues start again, this time Samsung would not send out a tech without me paying for labor fees,and would not give into your policies,after a long process and finally agreeing to pay,we scheduled another appointment for a different company to service my same issue as the beginning. This tech that arrived at my home states leaking at tub not repairable. Tech called tech line for replacement and to advise Samsung
I received a return authorization number and waited to here from Samsung, when no one called I called and was told sorry out of warranty we will add you to the buyback program. Unknown to the consumer this program is a depreciated value of the original purchase price. Further investigation I found my warranty that states Lifetime stainless door liner and tub for leakage, Samsung will replace your unit with same or current model that is better or equivalent  in functionality. I have contacted everyone possible about these issues,and am getting no results. Please help the everyday consumer be completely satisfied and feel  secure that your company does believe you make the BEST products and stand behind the consumer and your products. I have had no luck.


Ther is a little use "gotcha" you need to be aware of if you buy one of these. There is a child lock that is suppoused to be activated by holding down the sanitize buttion for 3 seconds. If you do this by accident the dishwasher will power on and all the lights cycle except the rinse button will stay on and the unit will not start washing dishes. Re-filling the jef-dry dispenser will do nothing. If this happens hold the sanitize button down 3 seconds it will flash then the rinse button will go off and it will go into the last wash mode you had it in and start. Found out the hard wasy now back to the review.

Just re-did the kitchen initallly from electric stove to gas stove then the rest to stainless to match the new stove.

Kitchen looks great. The last and hardest thing we bought was the dishwasher. After the stove the fridge and washer/dryer was easy. Went into a big box store to get a price match on a new stainless steel hood for the stove and they had fridges and washer/dryer on sale at 40 to 50% off. Checked reviews and bought Samsung. Later found out JD Powers had the washer/dryer tops in relabili6ty and the fridge second.

O.K. what does that have to do with a dishwasher review? It was as hard to decide on a dishwasher as it was easy to decide on the others.

It is rare to find good reviews on any dishwasher. Problems with drying, loading, how well it cleaned or more specific did not clean was everywhere.

Decided on this unit because it matched the fridge. Ok not the best reason but at that point it was live with the white Maytag that still did everything very well or go stainless and decor won out.

Ordered and got installed. Washed the first few loads with more than a little apprehension. It does the job. Dishes and glasses are clean. It is very quite and the stainless interior was the best looking in the price range.

Only problem is drying. Being energy efficient it does not dry as hot as the Maytag, but it is a lot less noisy doing it. There is some moisture left in glasses that have a recessed bottom. The rest no problem.

For all but one have used the auto feature. It fills then runs a couple of sweeps stops for a couple of seconds then washes. It take about an hour during which time it is super quite. You could literally carry on a conservation in front of it not like the old days when you had to leave the area.

It does have heated dry or appears to since when you open it there is still quite a bit of heat.

Fot the bucks it is a good deal, however the exterior is not stainless as it fails the magnet test. The inside passes. Magnets will not stick to staniless steel which I am sure makes many Moms and GrandMoms unhappy with not being able to turn the front of the fridge into a child drawing etc gallery.

Also don't on this as most new dishwahers forget to use a drying agent.


That estimate obviously doesn't include taking all the crap off the top of the fridge before you move it...

Well, I read the reviews and watched the videos and decided I could handle this DiY project.

That said, it wasn't all as advertized. Forget about it being a 15 minute project.

It also doesn't include the time you'll need to spend cleaning/sweeping the floor under the appliance, or vacuuming all the cobwebs and other dirt off the walls behind it. And don't think I'm a super-neatnik, but the fridge hadn't been moved in a couple of years (why would it?), so this added 20 minutes or so to the project. (Glad my spouse wasn't there, or I'd have had to paint the walls back there...)

Then, there was another 20 minutes to remove enough of the frozen food so I could work on the ice maker install. (You'll be amazed at the old stuff in there - packages of hot dogs from 2011, etc.)

Finally, I got to the actual install. The removal of the old ice maker went fine. Don't remove the top two screws, just loosen them and lift the old unit off them. Needed a flathead screwdriver to disconnect the old wiring harness. No big deal.

New parts fit fine. I saw the video, so I didn't need to read the instructions that came w/ the new parts. Not like the instructions were readable: a piece of 6"x7" paper that was about as thick as toilet paper. The "instructions" and illustrations were in 5 pt type. Not to worry - I saw the video...

Install of the new unit went smoothly, until I realized that the piece you use for the lower screw to attach to the freezer wall as well as hold it up securely - it wasn't pre-attached to the new unit. So, I smacked myself for not reading the unreadable instructions, until I realized they didn't say anything about doing that before you screwed the side-mounts in.

Aggravating, but after another 20 minutes, I got this lower brace installed without taking the new unit out and re-installing it. If you can't do this without taking the new unit out, it will only add another 5 minutes, unless you strip one of the screws; then you're screwed - royally.

Got the appliance plugged back in, and pushed it back into position. Took another 10 minutes to clean up the floor and the counters, and put away the tools.

Six hours later it started producing ice. Been cranking it out for the last week. No probs.

Spouse thinks I'm a pretty handy wiz, so it's all worth it. For this, I'd give it six stars if I could.

Just make sure you allocate enough extra time for all the things the video doesn't show you have to be done. Or maybe you're handier than me (wouldn't be hard...).


I didn't have much experience with Whirlpool brand until I bought the Duet set 3 weeks ago (8/15/12). I haven't had any issues with the washer (mechanisms, maintenance, other appliance issues) so this review will focus on the overall performance of this particular model. I had a top loading, high efficiency washer before this and had a real problem with clothes coming out not-so-clean, twisted up to the point of ruination, or not even wet all the way through. I endured it for a few years though because, evidently, returning a washer would have proven how picky and ungrateful I was to my husband. So we bought the Duet from Sears and I've had it for 3 weeks. A note about my household: I have two, very dirty boys and my husband is a plumber. I deal with dirt, grime and nastiness of epic proportions. I would love a commercial front loader! Unfortunately, I don't have $5K to spend on a washer. My expectations were pretty high for a front loader because I've seen some in action and everything seems to get sloshed pretty good which, I'm assuming, means they're extremely good at cleaning clothes. This particular model takes about an 1 1/2 to 2 hours to clean a load of my husbands work clothes to my satisfaction. That's on the warm, Heavy Duty cycle, with pre-soak, extra rinse, and an added deep clean (I just pushed that button, I don't really know what it does differently). HIS clothes came out good, although waiting 2 hours for one load seems excessive. It's the other cycles I tried that I really am unsatisfied with. MY clothes I washed on cool, Gentle cycle, with an extra rinse and I pulled out shirts that weren't even thoroughly wet! That's with TWO rinses! I watched my clothes for a few minutes as the water was being squirted on them and as they began to wash, and my opinion is that this washer is WAAAAY too stingy with water. I can understand being environmentally responsible. I try to use as many environmentally friendly products as possible in my home. HOWEVER, this is an extreme. You can't wash clothes without water. PERIOD. They do not come out clean. You must have water separating and then freely moving clothes before, I feel, they are properly cleaned. I don't think you need 13 gallons of water, like the old washers used to use, but using 2 to 3 gallons on a large load and thinking they're going to come out clean is utterly ridiculous. I tried asking some appliance sales people if they knew of any washer that was "water efficient" but not "high efficient" and, other than the old fashioned top loading kind, all washers are high efficiency. Drat. So, my pretty Duet set is a major let down. Perhaps, I'll figure out a way with my current settings to wash my clothes in a satisfactory way, or maybe I'll chuck the thing in the yard and slap a "Free" sign on it. I just thought consumers from average family size households should know that this washer, while very cute and sleek, is not at all efficient in the way I need it to be.


1.) The Purchase:
I purchased my Duet Steam Model Number WFW9500TW01 on 11/04/08.

2.) The Problem:
7/1/2011 It started getting the F35 error.

3.) The Troubleshooting:
I was able to open the top of the washer and go through some of the troubleshooting that I saw online (disconnecting the hose, blowing back into the washer) which seemed to fix it for about 10 loads but then again it started SUDS / F35 non-stop. I called a local repair service and found that I needed the "analog water pressure level sensor" which apparently had been discontinued by Whirlpool and replaced with a re-engineered part.

4.) The Part needed out of stock and backordered for months:
Old Part: W10156252
New Part: W10415587

The local repair service said that the part was on national backorder and according to their main supplier it had been so for 2 months. The new shipment of these parts was supposed to arrive 7/18/2011. On 7/18/2011 nobody called me to tell me whether or not they were in, so I called Whirlpool and escalated the issue with them.

5.) The call to Whirlpool:
 First I spoke with Emma, she confirmed the part was now on a preliminary delivery date of 7/29/11. I shared my frustrations and she transferred me to a "specialist", who, spoke as if she was chewing her own face - her name was "Candy" from Tennessee. I knew that I wasn't going to get anywhere with her so I escalated to her manager "Austin". "Austin" tried or said he tried to find the part from a couple of sources but couldn't. He said:

 "Sir, in this case what we need to do is get this to our Product Review Board who may offer you a replacement unit. They will call you within 24 hours".

6.) The call from the Whirlpool Product Review Board:
The next day 7/19/2010 a woman named Tihate called me and said that I qualified for a new replacement machine. She went on to explain that it was a newer model but would still fit on my pedestals that I purchased and would be white like my old model.

6a.) One Small Thing:
Tihate added that there would be a small fee for the new washer of $578.57

7.) The final resolution.
I politely declined her offer. I will now wait for the part, fix the washer and sell it along with every Whirlpool, GE and Maytag appliance in my home.

My new LG washing machine will be here tomorrow, with a standard 10 year warranty which costs about $150 more than the replacement from Whirlpool.

P.S.
Tihate's direct number is 1-866-640-7146 ext 6496


Horrible. DO NOT buy it.

Here's why:

1. Doesn't get your clothes clean.

2. No way to adjust or turn off settings (Yes, I gave the manual a detailed read)

3. The automatic lid-lock is annoying and there's no way to turn it off. So if you accidentally left a pair of your dirty undies upstairs and already started a load in the washer you have to reset the washer, wait for it to unlock the lid, then throw-in forgotten items. Pain in the you-know-where. And just plain stupid.

4. No agitator to get clothes clean. Spends a TON of time just sitting there doing nothing while "washing" your laundry.

5. Inadequate spin. Sometimes if you don't use the right wash settings (again, maddeningly vague in the instruction manual), or an item you are washing is particularly absorbent, sometimes when the machine thinks its done "washing" your stuff, the laundry load will be absolutely drenched by the time its done as if it didn't spin at all! And don't bother using the "Drain/Spin" feature. The thing just bumps and clumps around for a while, acting like its doing something, then when you go to check it again, surprise! Still drenched. The best way I've found to fix this problem is just to run the wash all over again with a different setting. Which is ironic because this is supposed to be an energy and water efficient machine.

I don't know whose time and energy Maytag thinks they're saving. Certainly not mine. It takes twice as long to do my wash and clothes don't always come clean forcing me to re-run the machine. Also the "technology" that is supposed to make your life easier and save you money, doesn't. It's just a gimmick for a crappy product.

I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed but I have really tried everything to make this thing work well for me. I'm here to say it doesn't work. Don't waste your money. I wish to heck I hadn't.

Honestly, the best washer I have ever seen in my life, was my mother's old Whirlpool from the late 1960's. Sure it didn't have all the gimmicky technology, the bells and whistles, and you may scoff, but its totally true. The thing filled all the way up with water, agitated like no other and got it all done in a reasonable about of time. You could also control the amount of water for each load, as opposed to some "sensor" (yea right, if I knew what I was looking for, I'd almost be tempted to bust the thing open to see if there really is a "sensor" telling the machine how much water to use. How can I tell if I can't even open the darn thing while its working?) doing it for you. *Sigh* I long for that old Whirlpool machine now. Seriously, if someone went back in time and brought be a brand new washing machine from the 50's or 60's, I'd throw this piece of crap in the back alleyway and leave it for some sucker to pick it up.

I hate this thing (Maytag MVWC400XW Top Load Washer).

Wish I could get rid of it and get my money back.

Don't buy it.


Update; 6 years later, it is still working fine.

I have a Kenmore model 110.62602100 dryer.

Last week, it stopped heating up.  The dryer is over 10 years old, as is the washer and they are a bit rusty, so I looked at replacing them.  The reviews I read on new washers and dryers showed me that they are not as reliable and don't wash as good as the older models.  There are some energy and water savings to be had with newer washers, but it would take years for that to repay itself, and I'd have a lower quality washer and drier in the mean-time.  I also looked at getting a new gas dryer, which would cut my energy bill, but was looking at about $500 for a high quality one.  Again, not worth the savings...

So, I unplugged the dryer and flipped it forward.  I found that the people who installed it had crushed the exhaust duct, which resulted in it filling with lint and increasing drying times, not to mention creating a fire-hazard.

I removed the duct and back panel, which had 9 screws holding it on.  Once I pulled the panel off, I instantly saw that the spade connection to the heating element had burned itself into oblivion.  The connector went into the thermostat, so I needed a new thermostat as well.  I found the part numbers at sears.com, which showed the heating element to be back-ordered.

I did a google search which showed this kit on Amazon, so I ordered it.  It took a little longer than desired for it to come, but within the estimated window.  I am really spoiled by the free 2-day prime shipping, so paying extra for expedited shipping and having it take 4 days is a bit galling.  Oh well...

The heating element was held on with 2 screws.  After removing them, it slid right out.  The thermostat included with this kit was different from the original, so I had to cut a wire and install a spade connector, but that was easy.  The kit did not include the screws needed to attach the thermostat to the heating element, so I had to dig some out of the shop.  The original setup had no screws holding the thermostat on as the terminal held it on, but this kit has a wire, which will not hold it on.  The same screws that hold the back panel and the heating element on will work, so you can pick some up before this arrives.

Once the wires were back in place, I buttoned everthing back up, installed a new metal duct(plastic is a fire hazard) and put the dryer back in place.  I fired it up for 30 seconds and popped it open, instant heat!!!

The new heating element had an odor, so I ran it for 10 minutes to "break it in" but now it is working like new!

This was an easy repair that anyone who is a bit handy could do.  The most involved part was cutting the wire and installing the included crimped connector.  If you can do that, you are good to go.  The drier is also pretty light, so it is easy to flip forward.  Always make sure to unplug before opening up electrical appliances, of course...


ultimately the machine is what it is. After the investment I will make it work, but i do not like these HE machines.  for whatever it is worth the water savings are not worth it.  (I actually have not noticed any on my water bill anyway.)  the clothes are not soaked or saturated via the wash. They are "drenched" with the detergent and wash water, which in essence puts all the cleaning on the detergent.  I am used to the washing machine doing the agitation which is forcing water to flush through the clothes/cloth time and time again within a 30-minute cycle or so.  This got out the dirt and more importantly the odors.  I am not convinced this machine does that. i have kids and have noticed those underwear stains remain if not pretreated.  the premise of these HE machines is flawed.  saturating the clothes and agitating them in what is a little more than a puddle is not getting them clean.  it needs to at least submerge the clothes in water that is the height of the clothes.  if you get a chance to see these machines work before you buy it, you will see this and wonder how it works.  In my opinion it does not work well.  the same issue exist during the rinse cycle.  we have had this machine for 7-months now and are still trying to figure this machine out.  my towels tend to get sour sooner than normal.  our kitchen towels are the same. (we've started pre-soaking them separately before washing in a big bucket grandma style.) for our regular clothes i have started washing "half" loads.  the sensor is supposed to put in enough water for the size of the load.  I also click Deep cleanse, extra rinse and pre-wash with every load to hopefully increase the water level. the water level tends to be the same (too low) in my book.  However, the wash time is increased.  There are 2 setting that put in a lot of water, bulky and allergen.  these soak the clothes, but the agitation is the equivalent of soaking clothes in a full tub and the agitation is simply on the bottom of the tub.  the top clothes get nothing.  If i had the chance to do it over again i would get a conventional washing machine.  though it seems like those things are becoming extinct it might be worth it.  one other thing I did not know is the wash and rinse cycle on this thing is as long as 84 minutes in some cases.  no cycle is 30-minutes. even the basic normal cycle is 50+ minutes.  so you might save some water, but the wash time is twice as long.  I am online now trying to find tips to manipulate this thing better.  I have thought about starting the normal cycle and adding extra water on my own.  as stated before, we pre-soak now.

The one good thing i can say is the companion dryer is outstanding.  it can knockout a load of towels in 30-45 minutes tops.


Our first d/w was a Maytag that cleaned very well.  Unfortunately, in 2 years time we had to replace the latch handle twice, it was recalled because of a potential fire, and ultimately, the tub warped and we replaced it with this Kitchenaid.

Having done extensive research, there is no one d/w that everyone loves.  That being said, Kitchenaid comes up as one of the brands that most people prefer.  Why not go with a middle level Kitchenaid?  Again, all the research I turned up said that it was necessary to go with the higher end in order to get better quality.  The higher end uses a different drying and washing process than the mid-range.

Another consideration was that only the top two models have the third tray for utensils.  Both my husband and the appliance salesmen minimized the importance of this feature.  Having now had the d/w for a month, it's one of my favorite features.  Because of food allergies and because we homeschool, we run our d/w four times a day.  I need every bit of space available for larger items.  By using the upper utensil draw, I can place more items in the bottom drawer.

As I mentioned, I cook a great deal and use a 12 quart stock pot about once a week.  I was concerned about being able to fit it in this d/w.  Our previous Maytag was a tall tub and had a very large clearance from the bottom rack to the sprayer.  No problem with the Kitchenaid.

There are several different options of cleaning cycles, and I do find myself using them. There's even an option for a shorter wash cycle.  It's just as efficient, just not as energy-conscious.  I haven't used it yet, but am thrilled to know it's available.

As everyone mentions, it's quiet as a whisper.  I can talk on the phone right next to it with no problem.

When researching, I did turn up some concern over the side venting of the door.  Have to say that our install left the vent just outside the cabinetry.  No problems whatsoever.

If you do a great deal of cooking, this is the dishwasher for you!

Update: I wanted to post an update that as time has gone by my love for this dishwasher only continues.  I run it roughly four times a day and have now used the 1 hour wash cycle.  It's been an invaluable time saver.  I've even washed our super large stock pot on the 1 hour cycle and it comes out clean.

My husband had expressed concern over the lack of a food grinder and my habit of not scraping the dishes immaculately before loading them.  However, we've had no problems.  I rarely remove the filter to clean it, and when I do I'm just rinsing it.  It really isn't even necesssary.  Almost a year later, and I still couldn't recommend it more.


What's Good:
*Very nice looking.
*Extremely quiet.
* spacious interior (14 place settings) with good generic rack layout.

What's Bad:
*So large it may not fit as a replacement for a standard dishwasher We had to unexpectedly modify our cabinetry. DO measure your space carefully.
*Pricey, but with basic features. You're paying for the label.
*No rack reconfiguration options (interior is so large you may not miss them). Upper rack does have 2 height positions, but implementing the change is such a hassle few will use it. Racks do not slide smoothly or easily. Lower rack must be lifted up over the bottom door edge to extract it without bouncing your dishware out of place.
*Flatware basket is spacious but fits only one location. You must completely open the heavy door and slide the lower rack all the way out to reach its rear sections.
*Door-edge control panel is a stunning example of bad design. Completely hidden under counter-top when the door is closed (keep a flashlight handy).
*Couldn't clean its way out of a paper bag! We tried all the wash cycles and several detergent and rinse products, including the ones recommended by the manufacturer. We even added vinegar. Nothing works! Glassware comes out with rings and cloudy film (we must assume this film also covers the rest of the dishware). Even a tried-and-true product we have used successfully for years in our hard water environment has no effect. Most of the particulates you forget to brush or scrape off beforehand will be baked onto the flatware and dishes (and we don't use the "heat dry" option). Let the peanut butter coating firm up on that table knife for a day? This machine won't touch it. It will come out just like it went in. Filling the cavernous interior with dishware simply reduces the cleaning effectiveness. The regular wash cycle runs for 2 hours, but has virtually no cleaning power. You will try the other cycle options, all of which use twice the water and energy, and find they don't clean any better. So much for the "green" concept. If you're primary concern is saving the planet, you will probably be satisfied. If you are interested in clean dishes, look elsewhere.

Two Year Update:
We've been using (and cussing at) this thing for a couple years now. Sadly, Our opinions haven't changed. We have discovered that the best (we use that term lightly) setting for getting any cleaning power out of this thing at all is the One Hour wash cycle. We also get the best results from Powerball cleaning tablets and LemiShine rinse products, especially the little "pillows," which we place inside the detergent compartment. A new irritation discovered with use, is that the flatware constantly jabs into the right side rubber door gasket when we run the lower rack in and out. Ours is now pierced with many holes. We are surprised it is still attached.


I bought a Maytag Maxima MHF6000XG front-load washer. Everywhere I looked, it was $1199, sometimes on sale for $100 less. I found Gochnauer's on Amazon in a google search, and they listed it for $598, brand new. Since they were within 100 miles of my home, there was a $129 delivery fee. I rented a van and drove straight out to them, completely skeptical. I arrived, everyone was friendly and helpful, and they loaded a brand new washer into my van with a forklift (no extra charge). They then refunded the $129 delivery fee since I picked it up. How did they do this? I have no idea, but holy cow was it a great deal......brand new and half price. Thanks guys!

As to the washer itself, this is my first HE washer, first front-load, and first experience with digital controls, 'smart' washer technology, etc. However, our washer was damaged in a basement flood, and it took me almost three weeks to find this one, so by the time I had it installed, I immediately ran over 20 loads of wash throught it.

Overall I am very happy with it so far. Clothes get clean, are very dry right out of the washer, are not all wrinkled, and smell fresh. There is very little water used, and while it takes much longer than a standard top-load washer, the total time, due to reduced drying time, is not dramatically different. With no agitator, it's more gentle on clothing as well. It's pretty quiet, even when spinning at eleventy billion RPM. The stay-fresh thing is nice for when you can not get back to the washer to move clothes to the dryer when it's done.

The downsides I've noticed are that the opening in the rubber gasket that seals the door must be wiped out as it collects water and various objects that come out of pockets, and if you add liquid detergent/bleach/etc into the trays and then wait a while to start, the liquids will leak out onto the non-running dry laundry load. There is no option to spin-only, just a rinse/spin option which takes longer. And no light in the tub, only the next higher up model, the 7000, has a light (strangely though the matching 6000XG dryer has a light). Finally, the balance sensor can take a while to figure out when it's OK to spin at high speeds, adjusting how the laundry sits in the tub, which can add to total wash time.

I'd give it 4.5 stars overall, mostly because clothes are coming out cleaner and better smelling than my previous SpeedQueen washing machine, and the energy/water usage is much much lower. I remember even after two spin cycles in the SpeedQueen, with towels and jeans it would often take 75+ minutes to dry on high. The matching Maytag MED6000XG dryer has yet to take more than 35 minutes on low or medium heat no matter what I have attempted to dry, and that's because the laundry coming out of the washer is nearly dry to begin with due to the high-speed spin and lower water usage.

Bruce


Here's the thing. I have a bob that is above my shoulders length. I have semi-curly hair that I like to straighten.
Cons:
1. It pulls my hair out
2. Gets a little too hot
3. Button gets stuck going in one direction (right button) and doesn't stop
4. The smaller brush gets tangled and also pulls my hair out in even larger chunks (I don't use this one)
5. The brush does not spin when you put it on the cool shot setting (what's the point of having cool shot?)
6. Useless on the slow setting and can only use on high setting
7. Need an additional hair dryer to get it 80% dry before using it
8. The cord is extremely short
9. If it's not spinning, you cant use it as a regular round brush dryer because the bristles are so soft they don't go through my hair unless spinning
10. I had to put ducktape on the plastic ends of the barrel because my hair would get stuck in the crevices and get yanked out
Pros:
1. When it works right, it actually adds quite a bit of volume
2. So much easier than using a separate round brush and hair dryer combo
3. Since I have shorter hair, I do not have to use any clips to clip it out of the way
4. My hair is done in less than 15 minutes
5. No pain from my carpal tunnel in my hand when I style my hair
6. Handle width is perfect
7. Comes with cover so bristles don't get smashed down when sitting on counter (you will need to put it on after every use)

This product is far from perfect, but it works for my purposes. I don't expect it to be durable enough to quite last a year, especially with the situation with the button getting stuck in one direction. I would expect more from a product that's at this high of a price point. Since this one has many flaws, I may try another spinning round brush dryer when this one stops working. I haven't seen many that didn't cost more than this one. This one seems like it might be the in between model.

UPDATE 1/17/2017
Don't buy this product. It won't last you even a year before malfunctioning. Tried to return through Conair since my Amazon return date had expired. They'll let you return it, but only if you pay the additional shipping costs. I waited on hold for 45 minutes to reach a customer rep to be told this. I'll save you all the trouble. Don't buy this product because it's junk. If you bought the product already, make sure you return it in time through Amazon because Conair makes junk products. I've also filed a complaint about Conair via the better business bureau, which I found out Conair has an F rating on. I've never seen an F rating on the BBB for any company. Consider this a warning about all Conair products. I know I will never buy any of their products ever again. I already have vowed to never buy their crappy hair dryers that always break, but I'm extending this to all of their products after reading complaints on the BBB and due to my recent experience trying to return this spin brush.


Oh. My. Gosh. Wow. Background first:  I have medium (near shoulder length) super fine AND super thin hair,  with a giant C-shaped brain surgery scar over the entire left side of my head, where the hair doesn't even grow. I have layers, short on top and in the back. My main issues are thinness and scalp showing on the left side and top back of my head. Most of what I do is useless to fix that. And the front, my bangs area,  is also thin and shows scalp. The rest of my hair is good enough, but looks kind of out sync, I guess you could say: Full and frizzy on the bottom area,  thin and see-through on the scalp area. I've tried most everything that I can afford.  Chemicals, chemical-free, different cuts, styles, colors, my own natural color, sprays, gels, mousses again naturals, earthy types,  and chemical ones. Shampoos, conditioners, even just rinsing. Daily washing to every few days.  Blow drying, air drying, boar bristles...  You get the idea. Before my surgery, I used to use a round blow dryer that was stationery. It worked OK,  but would die or get super hot all the time after not too much use and I got tired of buying them. Decided to look into those again, and saw this one. Read the reviews and decided to try it.  Took me all of 3 tries (3 sections of hair on my first use, that is) to get the hang of it. It's so simple to use, and I have NEVER  seen my hair so smooth, shiny and silky! Truly amazed that a hair dryer can make it not frizzy.  Seems backward to me. All of my other dryers in my entire life have frizzed on me-- even ones that say they won't. The thinnest parts of my hair, though the hair does not poof up or anything, gets full scalp coverage somehow. And it lasts. My hair does fall flat in humidity, or if it gets damp from sweat, but the coverage of my scalp is still there, by some miracle. And I love that I can make it straight, or curly.  I almost want to buy 5 more just in case something happens to the company and  I can't buy any more. Part of this review is selfish for that reason... I want the company to succeed so I can buy more if I ever need to. I do wonder how long it will last because it has moving parts and a heater. But,  It seems really well made.  I'm even using the bristle cover every time I use it. Seems like the company really cares about the product. I love it, and have recommended it to my two friends with very fine hair and shoulder issues who can't hold a dryer AND a brush (yet another reason to buy this product). Love this product. Love it.


This hood was the best price of any high-CFM hood I've seen. Nothing else could even come close to this in amount airflow with a reasonable price, and also included the blower motor. First reason to purchase this unit.

When it arrived, it was packaged securely. The box had a couple of dings. The hood had none. When unpacked, this unit looked really nice. The power-check on the unit went well. The uninstalled hood plugged-in and fan set to high showed that the unit wasn't the absolute quietest. Nor was it that loud. I was able to have a normal volume conversation with the fan on high. I've read reviews that said it was way too loud. I disagree, and my ears are sensitive to loud sounds. What I did need to do though was quiet the beeping sound that every button push makes. That IS too loud and really bothers me. One of the reasons that unit may be too loud, as the instructions say, is that the unit may need to have screws checked for tightness. OK, easily done. This is the second reason to purchase this unit.

The instructions are not a reason to purchase this unit. They really suck! First, they are obviously translated. This is super funny until you need them to install from. Second, you have a couple of parts that the instructions tell you nothing about. Rubber gaskets for noise suppression, plastic wiring caps for wires that are already installed and capped, screws for ??? The instructions are a detractor of this purchase. My install technique was a combination of Youtube and Home Depot's Pro Desk. If you're a "do-it-youselfer", the instructions don't really matter. Installation is pretty simple.

Hood got installed. Along the way I took the baffles out in order to hang the housing. WEAR GLOVES for this! The inner metal lining that houses the baffles is razor sharp and cut my arms and hands in multiple places. You wouldn't normally interact with this metal lining unless you were going to install the unit. The install was very easy once I knew where everything went. One thing to mention is that if you are looking for a 7" exhaust, you'll need an enlarger piece. I just kept it 6" for the sake of convenience.

The first actual use of the hood was nice. It's powerful enough to be used as a room exhaust fan. I opened my kitchen and living room windows and felt it pulling a breeze through the house. It's advertized as 870 CFMs or close. I'm not sure if this is true. I am sure that it pulls a breeze through my 2000 sq. ft. home. It also hasn't needed to be run higher than low when using the 20,000 btu power burner on the range. The kitchen stays nice and cool.

I've already stated that the buttons beep. This is irritating. The rest of the interface panel is touch and nicely put together. The programming of time and how to program the fan-off time is poorly explained in the manual. But, it is nice to set the fan to auto-off after baking is done to keep the kitchen cool.

Overall, this is a nice unit that is probably worth more than it sells for. If I was going to purchase another hood, I'd buy this one all over again: great price, nice product when compared to the high-end makers.


DO NOT BUY THIS DISHWASHER. IT LEAKS. Yes, I'm shouting. It leaks at least a cup to three cups of water EVERY single time you run it. I've used plumber's tape, Flextape (waterproofing tape) and every plumbing fix I can - short of expoxying the hoses to the connection. Nothing works. I finally built a floor pan out of coroplast and Flextape to contain and drain the water.

CONS:

The hose that comes with it is SHORT. Unless you can literally place this unit next to your sink and hook it up, forget it. I had to search six hardware and plumbing stores before I found one that carried compatible hosing. Then I bought six feet of hosing and splices (which DO NOT LEAK) so I could attach it to the existing hosing to reach my sink from under a counter where I placed the unit so I didn't have to move it back and forth three times a day. Ideally, you find a place near the sink where you can leave it and simply attach the hose.

You'll need to buy an extra fitting to adapt to your sink - figure on an additional $5.99 to $8.99 depending on what kind of sink you have. Get the "quick attach adapter" so you are spending hours screwing the fitting on and off.

While it will clean your dishes, it will only EFFECTIVELY clean 5-6 plates, a couple of glasses, and a handful of silverware at a time. I run it once with just hot water, and a second time with detergent. I bought this for my office. I don't have a kitchen, but do have a small bathroom and sink. I bought this to use for the dishes I use when microwaving etc. - no heavy duty dirty dishes, just something to keep up with lunch dishes, coffee mugs, plates I use for doughnuts, bagels, employee snacks etc. We're not talking "baked on grime," but cereal bowls, crumbs, soup bowls - stuff we basically "heat and eat." So, for light fare - it seems to do okay as long as you don't let stuff sit for days. It does heat its own water, but it seems to run 200% better if you only run hot water from your sink - which we do.

I can't complain and bitch enough about the leaking. Tighten the fittings too much, and you'll break the fittings, and won't be able to find replacement fittings anywhere else as NO PLUMBING supply store in my city, or online, including Amazon, carries them. So, learn to live with the leaks...and I don't mean a few dribbles. This is like 1/2 to 2/3 a CUP of water with each cycle.

I wouldn't be happy if it didn't leak, but I would be okay with the performance otherwise. It takes at least two cycles (have tried every detergent on the market) to get really dirty, or hardened food residue off your dishware. It takes one cycle if you're doing mostly glasses and silverware.

It's better than doing dishes by hand, although lately, I've just been washing mugs and spoons by hand because it takes less time than mopping the floor every time I run it.

WOULD NEVER EVER RECOMMEND THIS POS TO ANYONE.


4 to 5 stars. The gas connection is sturdy if connecting a straight line connection. But when using an elbow, there's too much torque at the bend, which can ratchet around the fitting, loosening the connection. I think repeated expansion/contraction cycling from heating/cooling at this junction will loosen the connection over time. Mine leaked from the start, ("professionally" installed by gas company because I needed the permit and record to comply with state law and for insurance; I didn't even bother calling them back, instead doing the work the right way myself). When moving the flexible gas line slightly a few times while securing it underneath, this movement was enough to loosen the elbow, even after tightening the connection tightly. I built a bracket to hold the entire elbow and gas line in one place, with everything tightened up. No leaks and very secure underneath. Up top at the countertop,  the closed foam strips used under the cooktop edges, at countertop, are good for padding. Over time, liquids could soak into the foam stripping, leaving bacteria. So, after securing the cooktop in place, I added a small bead of silicone seal all around the cooktop, to keep liquids from seeping under it and into the closed foam seal. Nice cooktop, heats food with very little waste heat. For lighting burners, the approx. 4 seconds holding down control knob while safety components heat up is easy once I got used to it. Most gas ignition systems have this wait nowadays, for flame out safety protection. Both burners needed adjustment to lower the flame levels at lowest setting. An adjustment screw for this is inside the stem of each control pod. After pulling the knob up and off, the small access hole is right at the top of the stem. You will need a long thin flat head screwdriver to insert down the shaft to the screw. you can  see the small screw head down there if you shine a small flashlight light point and use a magnifying glass to look. Remember position of screw, then insert screwdriver  oriented same direction and connect with screw. You will feel the fit when screwdriver is seated. Turning clockwise reduces flame size, counterclockwise increases it. Don't push down hard as you turn screw, as this will reduce flame size temporarily until you release pressure. For a screwdriver, I bought a Master Mechanic 3/32 screwdriver at True Value Hardware, and ground down the screwdriver shank until it fit easily into the control stem hole. Shank should be 2 inches long to reach bottom. EXCELLENT customer service. I emailed asking if the cooktop can be lit with a match or lighter, if power outage (Yes, you can light it with a match when power is out).  Emailed on a Friday late. Next day, Saturday, a rep. called me at home and left a detailed explanation message, gave his direct line phone number to call with any further questions. I'm very happy with this cooktop and the company.


UPDATE 10/18/2016: Okay folks, it has been confirmed that Samsung now redesigned their haf-cin / DA29-00020b filters. In the photos the one you see with Double rubber ring on the neck is the newest version.

Pros:
-Whoever had a leaking issue previously probably will no more have any leakage (even tho it wasn't the filters fault, it's your loose housing or wrong placement of filter).

Cons:
-now people who had no issues before may have issues now, not the leakage but your water flow will be extremely decreased
-if you are switching from the older version filter with single rubber ring to the double rubber ring new design, you will have to shut off the water valve, otherwise little bit of air will shut your new filter and it will no more work. once air pressure goes into the filter, paper changes it forms kind of gets damaged i guess.
-you will be so pissed due to double ring and change of design will decrease your water flow, so that means to take out the first 5 6 gallon of water will take hours!!!!

Conclusion, SAMSUNG NEEDS A NEW FILTER COMPANY OR REPLACE OUR EXISTING REFRIGERATORS WITH NEW ONE FOR FREE BECAUSE YOU LIKE MESSING UP EVERY YEAR WITH YOUR FILTER DESIGN!!!!

UPDATE 10/16/2016 ( I have been purchasing this same filter from Amazon, sold and shipped by) here is the latest one i just received 20 days ago and i was going to replace today, and just surprised that something was different!!!! Now there is a double rubber o-ring on the outer head of the filter??? Does Samsung making changes or what is going on??? I spent 2 hours to get a water flowing thru this filter, no luck. Not older filter doesn't work as well. I am afraid that this latest filter damaged my water filter housing head, I am returning for the replacement and will see if the replacement comes different or not.

Latest filter september 2016 looks the one with double rubber ring on the head part.
it looks little taller than what i have been using originally all the time (i always buy from amazon, shipped and sold)
also the filter's top head neck bottom (where its the body starts) looks different as well. Samsung needs to clarify if there are any changes or not on the filter!!!

Bought it at October 31st, it did fit, worked and served perfect. No leaks or other issues. Water runs fast and filters very well. I did some water tests between water coming thru this filter and coming straight from the tap. Filters and also softens the water little bit as well. Ensure the model type of filter in your refrigerator matches with this Da29-00020b as well so you will not have leaks or any other problems. 6 months of use 2 people, having visitors oftenly and we are really water drinkers. Just the filter light turned little bit purple now. So 6 months of life for a filter is actually pretty good.


I purchased 4 single/individual Samsung Replacement Cartridges (Model # DA29-00020B) from Filter King for our Samsung French Door refrigerator recently.  The single filters were strangely cheaper than buying a multipack of 3 - that should have been a red flag for what's to come!  I have purchased from other companies thru Amazon.com usually in a 3pack, and have not had problems.  All 4 new filters purchased from Filter King thru Amazon.com did NOT work - loud vibrations, and product did not align at the right angle!!
  I opened the box for the first filter and noticed that there were no instructions or monthly date code stickers contained within - odd, but the cartridge filter was shrinkwrapped new.  I followed the instructions for installation of the filter as I had done in the past at least a half dozen times without issue on our Samsung refrigerator.  Immediately noticed that the arrow on the filter did not perfectly align at 12:00, as they did on the filter just de-installed  alignment was off by perhaps 1/8th of inch, I'd say it was stuck at 11:57 - I didn't want to overtorque it and break something inside the refrigerator.  Turned the water on to the fridge and began the process to flush water through the system as instructed.  No water came out and very audible vibrations could be heard.
  Turned the water to the fridge off again and de-installed this filter and tried a second new one  this one was also shrinkwrapped, and unlike the first did contain the instructions & stickers.  However, the same misalignment was seen in the 2nd cartridge filter, stuck at 11:57 (not fully vertically aligned) and the same result was obtained  - No Water through the system and Audible Rattling.  Decided to reinstall the old filter that we were trying to replace and found it to lock in place just fine (arrows correctly aligned at 12:00) and saw that water properly flowed through the system.
  De-installed this filter and closely compared it the two new ones  paying close attention to the open end  the end which engages the water nozzle inside the fridge.  The old (working) filter was shown to have the center circular piece on the open end to be flush with the rest of the nozzle end, meaning they were the same length.  This was in contrast to the other two new (non-working) filters in which the center circular piece was not flush  rather it was depressed in by ~1/16th of an inch.  It looks like I got a whole batch which were manufactured defectively and missed Quality Control standards.  Decided to open the last 2 new filters and found them to be in the same state as the other 2 non-working filters (would not lock in place in the fridge and the center circular piece was not flush with the rest of the nozzle end).
  I believe all 4 of the new filters are defective  they all seem to have the same serial code 'A2442'  suggesting that they could have come from the same bad manufacturing lot.  If the price is too good to be true, it's likely a rip off!!  These 4 filter rejects are all going back to amazon.com and I am buying elsewhere from a brick and mortar, big name place.


My washing machine drum has 3 baffles. One was broke in the back. It allowed it to detach from the tub. That left a sharp hole that items would get caught on and rip holes in them. A smaller item even went through the opening and became wedged in so tightly that it jammed and caused the drum to stop spinning. The other two baffles were still in place but they were becoming loose and would soon  need replacing.
Part of the reason I chose their company was because they were associated with Amazon.
Ordering 1 baffle was almost as expensive as ordering the kit of 3. I knew I would soon need them anyway and ordered the kit of three.
They arrived in a timely manner. One matched my machine. The other two looked the same on top but the screw holes and clips on the back where it attaches to the drum were completely different. They were installable because they in no way matched the screw holes and clip slots in my machine.
I took pictures and sent them to APPLIANCE PARTS STOP with an e-mail describing the problem. I offered to return the 2 baffles that did not match in exchange for 2 that would.
They wanted me to return all 3 for inspection and possible replacement. The one that matched my washing machine had already been installed and was working perfectly.
If I had removed it and returned it with the others I would have again had a disabled machine while I waited for return shipping. inspection and possible return of the correct parts. Another week or 10 days of a broken washer was unacceptable to me. They wanted to inspect the whole "kit". There was no "kit".
It was 3 separate baffles in a plain brown cardboard box. They were not in plastic wrapping, shrink wrapped or joined together in any way. It appeared that they had been picked out of a bin and put in a cardboard box and shipped.
I ordered the "kit" of 3 to save money and time. Might as well replace them all at once rather than paying more to replace 1 at a time as they detached from the drum.
I now have 2 baffles I cannot use and in the future as the 2 original baffles need to be replaced I will have the expense of purchasing them and paying once more for shipping.
It would have been far easier to replace all 3 at once, as opposed to removing panels and opening the machine again to replace the old ones that remain.
It was not my error but I will be paying the price. There was no "kit" just 3 loose plastic pieces in a box.
Remove the one that was correct and return with the 2 that were not? Wait for them to receive all 3, inspect and maybe decide to ship 3 that matched? Once again have a disabled washing machine until the correct parts arrive?
I sent them pictures of all three for them to compare. I offered to return the 2 that were wrong in exchange for the right ones.
Is another customer going to one day get the 2 baffles I should have received and not have them work in their machine?
The problem and inconvenience still exist for me. I have 2 parts I cannot use and need to order (from another company) the baffles I already paid for. I still have the incorrect parts. They are in perfect condition. Maybe I will hang them on the Christmas tree.


Fit perfectly. There are clutches out now that have 6 pads instead of just the three.  I assume they would last longer.

If your washer is not spinning always check the lid switch first.  Let the machine reach the spin cycle by starting at the rinse cycle (don't start in spin).  If nothing happens when it gets to spin, try again, this time with the lid up and a pencil or other non-conductive object holding the switch down.  If it doesn't spin this time, release the lid switch then activate it again.  If you hear a clunk, the washer is trying to go to spin mode - and the switch is probably OK.  If it spins properly this time, the switch is OK and the timer is probably bad.  If it doesn't spin, give the tank a little circular push in the clockwise direction.  If it won't move, it's probably the timer.  If it starts to spin slowly, or slowly then stop, or slowly and up to speed, then it's probably the clutch or the coupler.  (Also, if it spins on light loads but doesn't spin on heavy loads, it's probably clutch or coupler.)

Here is one way to check the clutch:  When it gets to the spin cycle and you can hear the motor running, give the tank a little clockwise push.  If it seems to go a while - or even gets going fast - then CAREFULLY, and with a glove on, try to stop the tank by putting your hand lightly on the top part of the tank.  Don't try to grab it and stop it - you could break, sprain, dislocate a wrist.  If you can slow it down pretty easily or stop it altogether, it's probably the clutch ($15) or the coupler ($5).  Look under the washer.  If there's black rubber residue, it's the coupler.  If there's no residue, or worse, some grease, then it's the clutch.  BUT - the grease comes from the transmission.  Read on.  If you can't turn the tank at all - and you're sure it's in the spin cycle - it's probably the timer ($100) not putting it in spin mode.  You can test this by turning the machine off then back on when in spin mode.  If it spins up to speed, then it's not the clutch or coupler.  .

If the clutch pads are NOT worn out, but the clutch is greasy, you might clean the clutch ($0)  - remove all oil residue on the clutch and the parts that hold it in - and reinstall it.  You'll have to decide whether you want to replace the transmission.  That's only $150 and it's a relatively simple job for a good DIYer.  But if you don't replace the transmission you may or may not get grease back within a year or two.  (I don't see where there is a top seal for this transmission.  That would be the least expensive option.)


Well, I tried to make sure the washing machine I purchased would do one thing well: not break and create a major hassle.  I read up on all types of machines looking for durability above all else.  The Speed Queen seemed to offer this from what other people had written.

However, the machine was broken from day one.  It has yet to work and we've had it for about a month.  We have had three service calls and it still does not work.  We have to go to the laundromat as a result--and when we are there we are, you guessed it, using Speed Queen machines and the irony doesn't help, either.  We have wasted three half days waiting on the repairman.  The repairman is stuck working with an ineffective and problematic repair system that cannot deliver the correct part.  He is actually a pretty nice guy who seems to know what he is doing.  I don't want him to look like the bad guy in all this.

I prefer to buy American whenever it makes sense.  But, I'm afraid in this case with this manufacturer, it doesn't make sense.  Look elsewhere.

OK, it's been about half a year since the machine showed up.  After another service call it worked.  The selection dial which sets the type of wash was bad so that was why it did not work when it first showed up.  After that was replaced it did indeed work.  For the first couple months and occasionally now it let's us know it is working by filling the room with that unique smell that we all know as "burning electrical component smell".  You all may know it by a different name but we've all smelled it at some time.  We were so desperate to have this thing work that we solved the problem by: keeping a fire extinguisher (rated for electrical fire use) nearby; leaving the door open to the outside and running the vent fan while using it and for some time after it had stopped to vent the room; feeling confident that the design and manufacturing team had done their level best to prevent a fire from killing us.  How does it do cleaning the clothes?  Pretty well, actually.  Of course, the first few big jobs it had consisted of removing the smell of burning electrical components from all the laundry that had been in the room when it was first used.  Somehow, that has the sound of a government make work project--one guy digs the ditch, the other guy fills it in, two guys supervise, and several administrators complete detailed project assessment forms.  So, this has been an OK machine as far as washing goes but has been exemplary in stimulating the economy and we all know how important that is in today's economy.  How?  Well, some guys designed it, some people built it, the repairman (he really was a good guy, no kidding) got to make several service calls, the help center at Speed Queen kept busy, and my wife and I got to take a total of two whole days off work thus ensuring that our undone work was distributed to others who might have been unemployed if this unique opportunity had not occurred.  Now that's stimulus.  So, as a washing machine, still one star, but as a backdoor economic stimulus, five plus stars with platinum oak leaf cluster surround.


Before I review this machine, I want to emphasize that you MUST wipe out the inside of the stainless steel tub when you first get your machine. The tub is coated with a greasy, dusty film that must be wiped off with a spray cleanser/ degreaser and a cloth or paper towel. It took me about 10 minutes before I got the inside of my machine clean. This coating is quite substantial and will not wash off with normal running of the machine. This is mentioned in both the installation manual and the user's manual. (Similarly, the installers ran the matching dryer for 30 minutes to burn off a similar factory coating.) I wonder if some of the writers of the poor reviews had problems because the users did not wipe off this coating.

We just bought the AWN542 along with its matching dryer at our local independent appliance store. We replaced a set of 20 year old Maytags that had served us well but once the dryer started screeching, we decided to replace them instead of repairing them. I wanted to avoid the fancy front loading machines because of all the complaints I have heard over the years. We looked at simple looking Maytags, Amanas, Whirlpools, etc. but they all looked cheaply made and do have some computerized components that can fail. The higher end machines seemed overly complicated and would have cost at least twice as much as the Speed Queens.

The salesman at the independent appliance store recommended the Speed Queens. At first, I was skeptical. The Speed Queens looked like the lower end machines to me at first. They are very Plain Jane but my husband was immediately impressed by how much better built they were than the somewhat lower priced Maytags, etc. So we went home to do some research on Speed Queen. We were happy to find so many positive reviews and that they were made in Wisconsin with absolutely no computer boards. As far as I know, there is nothing comparable available for consumers in the United States. We returned to the store an hour later and bought the AWN542 and matching dryer on the spot. We felt the Speed Queen washer and dryer set were moderately priced - somewhat higher than the low end Whirlpool clones but much less than high end front loaders.

I could repeat all the other positive comments. Nice, simple straightforward washing machine that gets clothes clean. There are plenty of options to choose water level, cycle, extra rinse. Nothing fancy or complicated. I have already washed delicates, towels, heavy canvas pants, coats, a large comforter. Everything came out beautifully. I think the extra large water level is fine. I don't feel the need to overload the machine.

The only thing I might complain about is that the knobs look sort of dumpy at first. They could use a good industrial designer to make them a little more attractive. But they are growing on me. The knobs are actually very sturdy and functional. The black lettering on the plain white is very clear and easy to read so the complaint about the look of the knobs is very superficial and silly.


The washing machine you wished you had purchased.  When our 15 year old Kenmore needed $500+ of repairs, we chose to replace.  My due diligence sources were appliance repairmen, professional home cleaners, and families that wash clothes constantly.  Here's today's market: those gorgeous, and pricey, front loaders you see in Home Depot, Lowe's, and the fancy showrooms have  a couple of problems they don't want to talk about. The first one is a deal killer: they don't get your clothes clean. 15 gallons of water in a cycle is insufficient, and probably the reason LG, Samsung, and all the rest want to add something to make your clothes smell nice; it masks the fact that your clothes are not clean.  This Speed Queen machine has a 30 gallon maximum capacity. The second issue with the front loaders is that a lot of them leak.  Silly me: I thought we were washing clothes, not the laundry room floor. Don't take my word for it: read the reviews. In the meantime, go to a Laundromat if you want to see a front loader that really works: it'll likely be a Speed Queen, and the front door latch is built like one on a miniature submarine. Before the conservationists, which I consider myself to be one of,  jump on me, a 411: our water problem in this country is primarily caused by politics, specifically by not pricing water at its real cost as a resource, like gasoline, that must be obtained, refined, and delivered.  California is Ex. 1, and I use it only because it's so big and the problem is now so big even the professional deniers know the state is in a world of hurt.  Water law allows a first taker from a river to take as much as they want at a subsidized price without regard to the efficiency of use, and too bad for the downstream users.  So $200 worth of water can be used to raise $100 worth of crops.  This is a great plan.  LA & Phoenix are arid climates, really deserts, but politics made them green. Fine; short their real estate markets.  And then are the cities that still do not yet have water meters on their customer's homes. When these problems become part of conservation policy analysis, we can continue this conversation.  Until then get off the backs of people washing clothes in old style washing machines because they were raised to have clean clothes instead of having status fashion statement appliances.  And people that like to buy Speed Queens because they are manufactured in the United States by its citizens.  And while you're looking around, go to a Laundromat if you want to see a front loader that really works: it'll likely be a Speed Queen.  This machine runs like a Lexus, everything about it screams "I was designed and built to do what I do, and nothing else".  And it does.


Exactly what I wanted. After 25 years, my GE washer was making a lot of racket at the end of the final spin, I was told it was a bearing problem, and not worth fixing. It was still washing clothes well, like a wounded soldier determined to drag fallen comrades back from the front line - no quit to it, and loyal. (It's been making that noise for two years, just getting worse. I'm going to give it to my son, just to see how long it will go). After hitting the local appliance store, asking very pointed questions, and having the manager tell me there was no product in his store that I was going to like - they were all high efficiency - (I briefly considered the last GE model with top load and vertical agitator) - I hit the web hard. The negative reviews on ALL other washers are really funny to read. My wife and I laughed, and I may go back and read some more of them if I get down. Especially the front loaders. Anyway, I found the Speed Queen. I read the reviews, and gambled and spent almost double the amount they were asking for the old style GE and purchased the AWN542 Speed Queen. I hooked it up myself in about an hour from box to washing. Adjusting and leveling the legs and getting it even with levels was the most difficult task associated with the machine's installation, but not bad for one person, and if you had two, piece of cake. The longest time was spent cleaning the floor under the old washer. Regardless, I love this washing machine. It holds tons of clothes, washes the load well and very quickly, is simple to operate, and just makes that little task in my life a lot easier. That is all an appliance is supposed to be and do. I have had it about two to three weeks, and my wife and daughter love it too, which is more important to me than my satisfaction with it. Did I buy into the Speed Queen marketing hype and do I like the fact that it says "heavy duty super capacity commercial grade" or something like that on it? Yes. Do I like the fact that it has stainless steel parts where other machines have plastic or cardboard? Yes. Am I thrilled that there is no button or screen to mash on that will wear out like a cheap volume adjustment on a mini van stereo - if it doesn't break first? You bet. I like that a lot. Do I like the fact that it has minimal electric cyborg computer chip foolishness in a high humidity environment? Yes. Do I mind that I can't turn it on or change its skin color or live stream a secure video feed of my clothes washing remotely from my office with an IPad? No. Will it last? I don't know. I hope it will, and it makes sense that it should. If it lasts, it will be the perfect washing machine - or maybe number two compared to my old GE. I wish this company made lawn mowers or gas grills.


Replacing the lid switch was easy, and I'm very happy with the quality of the replacement part.

When the old lid switch melted, it ruined the connector on the wiring harness, too. I didn't want to spend $150 on a new wiring harness, so I did some homework and found out how to replace the damaged connector. That saved a ton of money.  This seems to be a common issue, so I'll provide the details here.

The connector that fits this switch is Whirlpool part WP2172937. That's just the plastic connector. The terminals inside the connector have to be purchased separately.

For anyone attempting this repair, I don't recommend reusing the terminals from the original connector. It's very difficult to remove them from the old connector without bending them up and making them unusable. Just cut them off, preserving as much of the wire as you can. I had to replace a section of the white wire because the insulation was toasted and the wire was tarnished for a couple of inches. I used a lineman's splice with solder and heat shrink tubing. There are plenty of YouTube videos that describe this procedure.

When the new connector arrived, I found the manufacturer's name and part number stamped on it. Whirlpool WP2172937 cost me $11, but it's actually a repackaged Molex 43335, which can be purchased from mouser.com for $0.55. I found the connector terminals using the Molex website. Their part number is 43375-0001. You can get them for a few cents from mouser.com, but I opted to buy a package of 10 from Amazon so I could take advantage of Prime shipping. (It's good to have some extra terminals for practice, anyway.)

You'll need a crimper for the terminals. The official Molex crimper is $500. Fortunately, I found a much cheaper one that works well. This crimper comes with 5 dies. For these terminals, use the "1.5-2.5" slot on the "LG" die. It does the conductor crimp and the insulation crimp at the same time. Make sure the terminal is oriented the right way, then insert it into the crimper without the wire and close the crimper just until the first click. The crimper will then hold the terminal securely, making it easy to insert the wire. After the wire's in, squeeze the crimper all the way.

After the terminal is attached to the wire, you can slide the terminal into the connector with little effort and it will click into place.


I was leary at first of these small portables, and was afraid that because it was inexpensive it would be a tin can with plumbing. So as you probably also did what I did. and poured through all the reviews on all the other portable dishwashers also. Some glowing reports and some really hating these machines. Well if you look closely enough at the pictures you will notice "All" the compact machines regardless of the manufacturer are the same basic design. Some cosmetic differences and that's about it. So it's down to what color you like and what door you prefer on the front. And what seller you think will take care of you the best.

I read quite a few got dented dishwashers because of poor boxing. I can tell you that this seller was very careful as it was extremely well boxed with very thick double lining and in a extra strong box. No way would this get dented in there. I also received it in two days from my order.

Others complained these little guys don't clean well. Well I can tell you that this in fact  has exactly the same components you find in a big dishwasher, Just minus a top sprayer. Has both a detergent door, and a rinse dispenser. And heat's the water and the interior is all stainless steel which if I were to buy a full size dishwasher. Stainless steel would be an expensive option. I found the pull out tray of high quality and came with very good hoses. Nothing about it seems cheap to me. And everything came out squeaky clean. It is for all intensive purposes just a miniature version of the real thing. So if it didn't clean you would have had the same problem with the big unit.

I was also happy to find that when it drains it has a pump so that was good for me because I intended to hook this up permanently to it's own faucet and down the same drain as the washer the laundry room. So you can put this lower than the drain line. I was also delighted that the water inlet is a standard size as your washer inlet. So you can use any hose from home depot. You don't need to hook it up to your sink!

As for the long wash cycle complaint's it's no longer than a full size. So set it to Cup and glass clean for a shorter cycle. Or better yet just push the off and on button and reset it to rinse mode if you feel it's taking too long. It will detect that is has soapy water and will automatically drain that. Then it will refill and start rinsing with clean. You can even open it up and take a peek whenever you like (just don't open that door so fast as to get blasted with hot water, it will turn off quickly but still has water shooting around.

So for the price this is great bargain.

I have had it for quite awhile now, and I did notice that the Dishes "DO" come out dry. This happens because the water is so hot that the dishes evaporate off the water. If you don't put a rinse agent in then you will probably have water drops. so take advantage of the rinse agent dispenser.


As a 58-year-old man with three advanced degrees (including broadly analytic lab science - criminalistics) and thirty years of primary home laundry experience, I viewed pureWash's technology and claims with a jaundiced eye.  And I've been a "quiet environmentalist" since before participating in the first Earth Day in 1970 (IMHO consistent environmental actions speak louder than the latest "Green" condemnation demagoguery).  But the "ionized water" technology has been used over the last decade in institutional and commercial settings with results at least as good as typical detergent-based laundry techniques for both sanitation and cleaning.

The pureWash unit presented favorably upon inspection, installation was quick and without incident, and the unit tested out as specified.  Test load was four large heavy cotton bath-sized heavily soiled "dog towels".  My spaniel girls, especially the young one, enjoy the wet Spring and get profoundly mucky.  The test towels were loaded with dirt and muck and grass stains and filth.  I normally wash and rinse warm with a well-rated scent-free liquid detergent and liquid non-chlorine bleach, both properly measured for each load.  My primary goals in laundry are to sort properly, wash with the appropriate detergent, use enough detergent to reach "break point" for cleaning the laundry, and to get all the soap and dirt out of the laundry before drying.  The pureWash was used without detergent or non-chlorine bleach and with cold wash and rinse.  Some initial observations:

* The intake water from the pureWash was actively very fresh smelling without any hint of perfume, just fresh like spring thunderstorm rain.
* The wash water upon draining was filthy and smelled foul (probably because there was no masking detergent odor).  There was residual soap foaming from detergent that had evidently remained in the towels from previous detergent washings.
* Each subsequent rinse had progressively less smell, water discoloration and soap foaming, but it was obvious that the treated water in each rinse continued the cleaning process.  Personally, I like to watch the laundry filth going down the drain.
* Upon removal from the washer, the laundered towels smelled very fresh.
* Upon drying, the towels appeared to eye and nose to be as clean as any of my similar detergent-washed towels.  I am interested to see how their absorbency compares in actual use.

Now I don't know how long my pureWash is going to last, what there is to wear out inside the device, or what long term results and reliability are going to be.  But it's warrantied for a year, and it's generally during that time that manufacturing and design defects become apparent, in my experience.  No PureWash wash cycle is a traditional wash cycle (no detergent issues and no water heating) and every rinse cycle is a PureWash cycle (the treated water is obviously working each rinse cycle to further clean and sanitize the laundry load).  I'm really pleased and satisfied with these initial results.

3/21/13 EDIT:  I continue a year later to be impressed by 1) how fresh the PureWash treated water going into the washer smells and 2) how foul and sulphuric the wash water draining out of the washer smells.  To me, this means that the stink is out of the laundry.